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Title: Book No. 168: Bazaar Crochet and Knit
Date of first publication: 1966
Author: Coats and Clark, Inc.
Date first posted: Dec. 8, 2022
Date last updated: Dec. 8, 2022
Faded Page eBook #20221215
This eBook was produced by: Stephen Hutcheson, Pat McCoy & the online Distributed Proofreaders Canada team at https://www.pgdpcanada.net
COATS & CLARK’S Zippers • “O.N.T.” Threads • “Red Heart” Yarns
Distributed by Coats & Clark’s Sales Corp., 430 Park Ave., New York, N. Y. 10022
Copyright 1966, Coats & Clark Inc. First Edition—766 Printed in U.S.A.
COATS & CLARK’S O.N.T. “SPEED-CRO-SHEEN” MERCERIZED COTTON: 3 balls of No. 76-A Aqua.
Milwards Steel Crochet Hook No. 2/0 (double zero).
GAUGE: 11 h dc = 2 inches; 7 h dc rnds = 2 inches.
CROWN: Starting at center top of crown, ch 21 to measure 4 inches. 1st rnd: 2 h dc in 2nd ch from hook, h dc in each ch across to within last ch, 4 h dc in last ch; working along opposite side of starting chain, h dc in each ch across to within last ch, 2 h dc in same ch as first 2 h dc were made—44 h dc. Do not join rnds, but carry a contrasting colored thread up between last and first st of each rnd to indicate beg of rnd.
NOTE: Hereafter work in back loop only of each h dc unless otherwise stated.
2nd rnd: (2 h dc in next h dc—1 h dc increased) 4 times; h dc in next 14 h dc, inc 1 h dc in each of next 8 h dc, h dc in next 14 h dc, inc 1 h dc in each of last 4 h dc—60 h dc. 3rd rnd: H dc in each h dc around. 4th rnd: Increasing 6 h dc evenly spaced across each end, h dc in each h dc around—72 h dc. Next 4 rnds: Repeat 3rd and 4th rnds alternately. There are 96 h dc on last rnd. 9th rnd: Repeat 3rd rnd. 10th rnd: Increasing 3 h dc evenly spaced across each end, h dc in each h dc around—102 h dc. Next 2 rnds: Repeat 3rd and 10th rnds. There are 108 h dc on last rnd. Now work even until length from starting chain is 7 inches; then sc in next st, sl st in following st. Break off and fasten. Remove marker.
Lay work flat, having the same number of sts on each side of starting chain. Place a colored thread for marker on each side of last rnd. There should be 54 sts between each marker. Carry markers up as before.
BRIM: With wrong side facing, attach thread to the 27th st following any marker—this is center back. Work is now done in rows. 1st row: Sc in back loop of each st across. Ch 1, turn. 2nd row: Working through both loops, sc in each sc across to first marker; increasing 4 sc evenly spaced, sc in each sc across to next marker for front; sc in each remaining sc. Ch 1, turn. Being careful that increases do not fall over each other, repeat 2nd row until Brim measures 1½ inches. Work even for ½ inch. Break off and fasten. Remove markers. Sew back seam. Turn up back.
CORD: Cut 18 strands of thread, each 38 inches long. Tie all strands together at one end. Divide strands evenly into 3 sections and braid. Make a knot 1½ inches from each end and trim. Place around base of crown, adjusting to desired head size; overlap ends at center front of brim and tack in place. Drape crown as shown.
Illustrated in color on Front Cover
COATS & CLARK’S O.N.T. “SPEED-CRO-SHEEN” MERCERIZED COTTON:
For Japanese Lantern: 1 ball each of No. 49 Chartreuse Green and No. 48 Hunter’s Green.
For Coach Lamp: 1 ball each of No. 1 White, No. 12 Black and 5 yards of Red.
1 yard of Gold “Boiltex” Baby Rick Rack and scraps of Pink, Red, Blue and Orange Medium Rick Rack for Japanese Lantern; 10 inches of Gold “Boiltex” Baby Rick Rack for Coach Lamp.
For Each Pot Holder: A bone ring; felt for lining.
Milwards Steel Crochet Hook No. 1.
GAUGE: 6 sc = 1 inch; 6 rows = 1 inch.
BASE: With Hunter’s Green, ch 21 to measure 3½ inches. 1st row: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across—20 sc. Ch 1, turn. 2nd row: Sc in each sc across—20 sc. Ch 1, turn. Next 3 rows: Repeat 2nd row. 6th row: Work as for 2nd row to within last sc, draw up a loop in last sc, drop Hunter’s Green, pick up Chartreuse and draw through both loops on hook—color changed in last sc. Break off and fasten Hunter’s Green. With Chartreuse, ch 1, turn.
BODY: 1st row: Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. 2nd row: 2 sc in first sc—1 sc increased; sc in each sc across to within last sc, inc 1 sc in last sc. Ch 1, turn. Repeat last 2 rows 6 times more—34 sc. Next 2 rows: Work even. Ch 1, turn. Following row: Increasing 1 sc at both ends, sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. Repeat last 3 rows until there are 40 sc on row. Work even until total length is 6 inches. Dec row: Draw up a loop in each of first 2 sc, thread over and draw through all 3 loops on hook—1 sc decreased; sc in each sc across to within last 2 sc, dec 1 sc over last 2 sc. Ch 1, turn. Next row: Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. Repeat last 2 rows until 30 sc remain. Following row: Decreasing 1 sc at both ends, sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. Repeat last row until 20 sc remain, changing to Hunter’s Green in last sc of last row. Break off and fasten Chartreuse.
Top: With Hunter’s Green, ch 1, turn and work 6 rows even. Break off and fasten.
RING: With Hunter’s Green work sc closely over bone ring. Break off and fasten.
Sew Baby Rick Rack across top and bottom of Body; then sew 2 strips diagonally across center of Body, leaving about 3¼ inches between strips.
Fig. 1
FLOWER: (Make 2 Orange and 1 each of Pink, Red and Blue) Cut a strip of Medium Rick Rack, having 8 points on each edge. Thread needle with double sewing thread. Working along one edge only, push needle up through end point, * down through next point, up through next point. Repeat from * across. Tie ends together. Sew Flowers to Body in 2 groups as shown. Using double strand of Hunter’s Green, embroider leaves in Lazy Daisy Stitch (Fig. 1) and stems in Back Stitch (Fig. 2). Sew on ring. Line with felt.
Fig. 2
BASE: With Black, work as for Base of Japanese Lantern, changing to White in last sc of 6th row. Break off and fasten Black. With White, ch 1, turn.
BODY Repeat first and 2nd rows of Body of Japanese Lantern until there are 44 sc on row. Work even until total length is 5½ inches, changing to Black in last sc of last row. Break off and fasten White. With Black ch 1, turn.
Top: 1st row: Increasing 1 sc at both ends, sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. 2nd row: Work as for Dec row of Body of Japanese Lantern. Repeat last row until 2 sc remain. Break off and fasten.
RING With Black, work sc closely over bone ring. Break off and fasten.
CANDLE Starting at bottom with Red, ch 6. Work as for first 2 rows of Base of Japanese Lantern, having 5 sc (instead of 20 sc). Then repeat 2nd row until piece measures 2 inches. Dec one sc at beg of every row until one sc remains. For Flame, ch 10, drop loop from hook, insert hook in last sc made and draw dropped loop through. Break off and fasten.
Center the candle on Body, ½ inch up from base; sew in place. Sew ½—inch lengths of gold rick rack around flame to simulate rays of light and another length down center of flame. With Black make a 3½-inch chain. Break off. Sew this chain from top corner of Base to bottom corner of Candle, across bottom of Candle, then to other top corner of Base. Sew on ring. Line with felt.
Illustrated in color on Front Cover
J. & P. COATS “KNIT-CRO-SHEEN”: 1 ball of No. 42 Cream; use Hunter’s Green for leaves, and assorted colors for flowers. Each set of leaves requires 1½ yards; each flower requires 2 yards.
Milwards Steel Crochet Hook No. 1.
GAUGE: 4 rnds = 1 inch.
DISH CLOTH: Starting at center with Cream, ch 5. Join with sl st to form a ring. 1st rnd: Ch 4, (dc in ring, ch 1) 8 times. Join to 3rd ch of ch-4—9 ch-1 sps. 2nd rnd: In first sp make sl st, ch 4, dc, ch 5, dc, ch 1 and dc; ch 1, (dc in next sp, ch 1) twice; * in next sp make dc, ch 1, dc, ch 5 and (dc, ch 1) twice; (dc in next sp, ch 1) twice. Repeat from * once more. Join as on first rnd. 3rd rnd: Sl st in first sp, ch 4, * in next ch-5 sp make dc, ch 1, dc, ch 5 and (dc, ch 1) twice; (dc in next sp, ch 1) 5 times. Repeat from * around, ending with (dc in next sp, ch 1) 4 times. Join. 4th rnd: Sl st in first sp, ch 4, dc in next sp, ch 1, * in next ch-5 sp make dc, ch 1, dc, ch 5 and (dc, ch 1) twice; (dc in next sp, ch 1) 8 times. Repeat from * around, ending with (dc in next sp, ch 1) 6 times. Join. 5th rnd: Sl st in first sp, ch 4, * dc in next sp, ch 1. Repeat from * around, making in each of the three ch-5 sps dc, ch 1, dc, ch 5 and (dc, ch 1) twice. Join. Repeat 5th rnd until 20 rnds in all have been completed.
Edging: In first sp make sl st, ch 4 and dc; (sc in next sp, in next sp make dc, ch 1 and dc; ch 1, in next sp make dc, ch 1 and dc) 6 times; * in next ch-5 sp make sc, (dc, ch 1) 3 times, dc and sc; (in next sp make dc, ch 1 and dc; ch 1, in next sp make dc, ch 1 and dc; sc in next sp) 19 times; in next sp make dc, ch 1 and dc; ch 1, in next sp make dc, ch 1 and dc. Repeat from * around. Join to 3rd ch of ch-4. Break off and fasten.
LEAF: (Make 15) With Green, (ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook, h dc in next ch, dc in next ch, tr in next ch, dc in next ch, h dc in next ch, sc in next ch) twice. Break off and fasten, leaving an 8-inch length of thread for sewing.
FLOWER: (Make 15) With any color, ch 5. Join with sl st to form ring, (sc in ring, ch 4, holding back on hook the last loop of each tr, make 2 tr in ring, thread over and draw through all 3 loops on hook, ch 4) 5 times. Join to first sc. Break off and fasten, leaving a 10-inch length of thread for sewing.
Press all pieces through damp cloth. Sew leaves and flowers, spaced at random, to dish cloth.
Illustrated in color on Front Cover
COATS & CLARK’S O.N.T. “SPEED-CRO-SHEEN” MERCERIZED COTTON: 1 ball of No. 126 Spanish Red; 15 yards of No. 48 Hunter’s Green.
Milwards Steel Crochet Hook No. 1/0 (zero).
GAUGE: 6 sc = 1 inch; 6 rows = 1 inch.
APPLE: Starting at bottom with Red, ch 6. Join with sl st to form ring. 1st rnd: Make 12 sc in ring. Do not join rnds, but carry a contrasting color thread up between last and first st to indicate beg of each rnd. 2nd rnd: 2 sc in each sc around—24 sc. 3rd rnd: * 2 sc in next sc—1 sc increased; sc in next sc. Repeat from * around—36 sc. 4th rnd: Sc in each sc around. 5th rnd: Increasing 12 sc evenly spaced, sc in each sc around. Next 4 rnds: Repeat 4th and 5th rnds twice. There are 72 sc on last rnd. Repeat 4th rnd until length from starting ring is 4¾ inches. At end of last rnd join with sl st to next sc. Following rnd: Ch 1, sc in joining, * ch 15, skip next sc, sc in next sc. Repeat from * around. Join to first sc—36 loops. Break off and fasten.
LEAF: (Make 2) With Green, ch 18, sc in 2nd ch from hook, h dc in next ch, dc in next ch, 2 tr in each of next 2 ch, tr in next 6 ch, 2 dc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, h dc in next ch, sc in next ch, 3 sc in last ch; working along opposite side of starting chain, h dc in next 3 ch, 2 dc in each of next 2 ch, 2 tr in next ch, tr in next 7 ch, dc in next ch, h dc in next ch, sc in next ch. Ch 1, turn; then sl st in each st around. Break off and fasten, leaving a 6-inch length of thread for sewing. Sew one leaf to top of any loop; sew second leaf to top of loop directly opposite.
DRAW STRING: (Make 2) With Green make a chain 12 inches long, leaving a 3-inch length of thread at each end. Lace chain through loops, being careful not to twist loops; tie ends together securely. Lace and tie second chain in same way.
Insert ball of string with loose end hanging through hole at bottom.
Illustrated in color on Front Cover
COATS & CLARK’S “O.N.T.” PEARL COTTON: 3 balls of No. 26 Nile Green.
Milwards Steel Crochet Hook No. 6.
1 yard of satin ribbon, ¼ inch wide.
GAUGE: 17 dc = 2 inches; 4 dc rows or rnds = 1 inch.
UPPER: Starting at toe end, ch 13. 1st row: Dc in 4th ch from hook and in next 9 ch—11 dc, counting the ch-3 as 1 dc. Ch 3, turn. 2nd row: Dc in first dc, dc in each dc across, 2 dc in top of turning chain—13 dc. Ch 3, turn. 3rd and 4th rows: Skip first dc, dc in each dc across, dc in top of turning chain. Ch 3, turn. 5th row: Repeat 3rd row, omitting turning chain. At end of last row, ch 39. Being careful not to twist chain, sl st in top of turning chain at beg of last row. Break off and fasten.
SIDE PIECE: 1st rnd: Working down toward toe, attach thread to 20th ch, ch 3 to count as first dc, dc in next 19 ch, make 11 dc along the side edge of upper; working along opposite side of toe chain, make 3 dc in next ch, dc in each of next 9 ch, 3 dc in next ch, make 11 dc along next side edge of upper, dc in each of remaining 19 ch. Join with sl st to top of ch-3—76 dc. Next 3 rnds: Ch 3, skip joining, dc in each dc around. Join. 5th rnd: Ch 1, sc in joining and in each dc around. Join to first sc. Break off and fasten.
CUFF: 1st rnd (beading): Working along opposite side of the ch-39, attach thread to the 20th ch, ch 1, sc in same ch and in next 19 ch, sc in each of 13 dc across instep edge, sc in remaining 19 ch—52 sc. Join with sl st to first sc. 2nd rnd: Ch 4, skip joining and next sc, dc in next sc, ch 1, * skip 1 sc, dc in next sc, ch 1. Repeat from * around. Join to 3rd ch of ch-4. 3rd rnd: Ch 1, sc in first sp, * ch 3, sc in next sp. Repeat from * around, ending with ch 1, h dc in first sc to form last loop. 4th rnd: Ch 1, sc in loop just formed, * ch 1, in next loop make (dc, ch 2) twice and dc—shell made; ch 1, sc in next loop. Repeat from * around, ending with shell in last loop, ch 1. Join to first sc. 5th rnd: Sl st in each st to within first ch-2 sp of first shell, ch 1, sc in first ch-2 sp, * ch 3, sc in next sp of same shell, ch 5, sc in first ch-2 sp of next shell. Repeat from * around, ending with ch 2, dc in first sc. Next 3 rnds: Repeat 4th, 5th and 4th rnds. Break off and fasten at end of last rnd.
SOLE: Starting at center, ch 23. 1st rnd: 2 dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 18 ch; 7 dc in next ch for toe; working along opposite side of starting chain, dc in next 18 ch, 2 dc in following ch. Join with sl st to top of ch-3 (center back)—48 dc, counting the ch-3 as 1 dc. 2nd rnd: Ch 3, skip joining, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next 17 dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in each of next 3 dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next 17 dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc. Join to top of ch-3—58 dc. 3rd rnd: Ch 3, skip joining, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next 17 dc, (2 tr in next dc, tr in next dc) 3 times; (tr in next dc, 2 tr in next dc) 3 times; dc in next 17 dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc. Join. 4th rnd: Ch 1, sc in joining, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, h dc in next 8 sts, dc in next 7 sts, (tr in next 2 sts, 2 tr in next st) 3 times; tr in next 4 sts, (2 tr in next st, tr in next 2 sts) 3 times; dc in next 7 sts, h dc in next 8 sts, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st. Join to first sc. Ch 1, turn.
With wrong side of sole and wrong side of the side piece together, working through both thicknesses, sc in each st around. Join. Break off and fasten. Cut ribbon in half. Starting at center front, draw ribbon through the beading and tie in a bow.
Illustrated in color on Front Cover
COATS & CLARK’S “O.N.T.” PEARL COTTON: 2 balls of No. 10-A Canary Yellow.
Milwards Steel Crochet Hook No. 6.
“Boiltex” Medium Rick Rack: ½ yard of No. 123 Dk. Turquoise.
2 buttons.
GAUGE: 17 sc = 2 inches; 8 rnds = 1 inch.
UPPER AND SOLE: Starting at toe, ch 2. 1st rnd: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Do not join rnds, but carry a contrasting color thread for marker up between last and first st of each rnd to indicate beg of rnds.
NOTE: Hereafter work in back loop only of each st, unless otherwise stated.
2nd rnd: 2 sc in each sc around—12 sc. 3rd rnd: * 2 sc in next sc—1 sc increased; sc in next sc. Repeat from * around—6 sc increased. Next 3 rnds: Increasing 6 sc evenly spaced, sc in each sc around. There are 36 sc on last rnd. Following rnd: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in next sc—these 16 sts are for Sole; place a different colored thread for marker between last st worked and next st to indicate beg of Upper; 2 sc in next sc, sc in each sc to within last sc, 2 sc in last sc—the last 24 sts are for Upper. Next 2 rnds: Increasing one sc before and after each marker, sc in each sc around. There are 20 sc on Sole and 28 sc on Upper on last rnd. Following rnd: Continuing to carry markers up, sc in each sc around. Repeat last rnd until Sole measures 2¼ inches from center of toe. Break off and fasten. Place a pin in center of Upper on last rnd, having 14 sts on each side of pin.
SIDES AND SOLE: Work is now done in rows. With right side facing, skip 7 sc following the pin, attach thread to back loop of next sc and work as follows: 1st row: Sc in back loop of sc where thread was attached, sc in back loop of each sc to within last 7 sc before pin—34 sc. Ch 1, turn. Continue to carry markers up. 2nd row: Sc in front loop of each sc across. Ch 1, turn. 3rd row: Sc in back loop of each sc across. Ch 1, turn. Repeat last 2 rows until total length of Sole is 3¼ inches, ending with 2nd row. Next row: Work in pattern to next marker, draw up a loop in each of the next 2 sc, thread over and draw through all 3 loops on hook—1 sc decreased; work in pattern across to within 2 sc before next marker, dec 1 sc over next 2 sc—1 sc decreased at both sides of Sole; complete row in pattern. Ch 1, turn. Following row: Work even in pattern. Ch 1, turn. Repeat last 2 rows twice more. There are 14 sts on Sole on last row. Break off and fasten.
HEEL With right side facing, attach thread to back loop of first sc following first marker. 1st row: Working in back loop of each sc, sc in same place where thread was attached, (dec 1 sc over the next 2 sc) 6 times; sc in next sc. Ch 1, turn. Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows of Sides and Sole alternately over these 8 sts until Heel measures same as corresponding side edge. Break off and fasten. Sew side edges of Heel to corresponding edge of Side. Remove markers.
EDGING With right side facing, attach thread to back loop of sc at center back of Heel. 1st rnd: Sc in back loop of each Heel st, make 16 sc evenly spaced across next side edge, sc in back loop of each of the 14 sc of upper, make 16 sc evenly spaced across next side edge, sc in back loop of each remaining heel st. Next 2 rnds: Sc in back loop of each sc around. At end of last rnd sl st in next st. Break off and fasten.
STRAP Make a chain 5 inches long; sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 4 for buttonloop; working along opposite side of starting chain, sc in each ch across, making 2 sc in last ch. Join with sl st to first sc. Break off and fasten.
Mark center of strap and center of heel with pins. Sew strap to top edge of heel for ½ inch on each side of pins.
ROSETTE (Make 3) Thread needle with sewing thread and attach to one point of rick rack, draw thread through 4 more points and pull up tightly. Fasten securely to first point. Cut off excess rick rack. Sew rosettes across front of shoe as shown.
Illustrated in color on Front Cover
J. & P. COATS METALLIC “KNIT-CRO-SHEEN”: 1 ball each of No. 1 White and No. 46-A Mid Rose.
Milwards Steel Crochet Hook No. 7.
3 small snap fasteners; 1 silver sequin; a 10-inch length of elastic thread.
An 11-inch doll.
GAUGE: 8 sc = 1 inch; 3 sc and 3 h dc rows = 1 inch.
BODICE: Starting at waist with Mid Rose, ch 26. 1st row (wrong side): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 2, turn. 2nd row: H dc in first 5 sc, (2 h dc in next sc—1 h dc increased) twice; h dc in next 11 sc, inc 1 h dc in each of next 2 sc, h dc in last 5 sc—29 h dc. Ch 1, turn. 3rd row: Sc in each h dc across. Ch 2, turn. 4th row: H dc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. 5th row: Sc in first 6 h dc, (2 sc in next h dc—1 sc increased) twice; sc in next 13 h dc, inc 1 sc in each of next 2 h dc, sc in next 6 h dc. Ch 2, turn. 6th row: Repeat 4th row. 7th row: Sc in first 7 h dc, inc 1 sc in each of next 2 h dc, sc in next 15 h dc, inc 1 sc in each of next 2 h dc, sc in next 7 h dc. Ch 2, turn. 8th row: Repeat 4th row. 9th row: Sc in first 8 h dc, inc 1 sc in each of next 2 h dc, sc in next 17 h dc, inc 1 sc in each of next 2 h dc, sc in next 8 h dc. Ch 2, turn. 10th row: Repeat 4th row. 11th row: Repeat 3rd row, omitting turning chain. Turn. 12th row: Sl st in first 5 sts, (ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook) 7 times—right shoulder strap made; skip 10 sc, draw up a loop in each of next 2 sts, thread over and draw through all loops on hook—1 sc decreased; sc in next 7 sc, dec 1 sc over next 2 sc, make shoulder strap as before, skip 10 sc, sl st in each remaining sc; make 3 sc in same place at corner, sc closely along next side edge. Break off and fasten.
Placket: 1st row: With wrong side facing and Mid Rose, sc closely along other back edge. Ch 1, turn. 2nd row: Sc in each sc across. Break off and fasten.
SKIRT: 1st row: With wrong side facing and working along opposite side of starting chain of bodice, using Mid Rose make 26 sc across waist. Ch 4, turn. 2nd row: In first sc make dc, ch 1 and dc; * in next sc make (ch 1, dc) twice. Repeat from * across—52 sps, counting the turning chain as 1 sp. Ch 4, turn. 3rd row: * (Dc in next sp, ch 1) 3 times; in next sp make (dc, ch 1) twice—1 sp increased. Repeat from * across, omitting the last ch 1. Ch 4, turn. 4th row: Increasing 13 sps evenly, * dc in next sp, ch 1. Repeat from * across, omitting the last ch 1. Ch 4, turn. Now work in rnds as follows: 1st rnd: Work as for 4th row, ending with a dc in last sp, sc in 3rd ch of the turning chain. Ch 4, turn. 2nd rnd: Repeat first rnd. Ch 1, turn. 3rd rnd (Edging): Sc in first sp, * ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next sp. Repeat from * around, ending with ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook. Join to first sc. Break off and fasten.
UNDERSKIRT: Starting at waist with White, ch 27. 1st row: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 4, turn. 2nd row: Repeat 2nd row of skirt. Ch 4, turn. Next 2 rows: Work as for 4th row of skirt, increasing 17 sps evenly (instead of 13 sps). Now work in rnds as follows: 1st and 2nd rnds: Increasing 17 sps evenly, work as for first 2 rnds of Skirt. Following rnd: Repeat 3rd rnd of skirt.
Sew 2 snap fasteners to bodice back opening and 1 snap fastener at waist on underskirt.
PANTIES: Starting at waist with Mid Rose, ch 44. Being careful not to twist the chain, join with sl st to form a ring. 1st rnd: Ch 1, sc in each ch around. Join. 2nd rnd: Ch 2, skip first sc, h dc in each sc around. Join to 2nd ch of ch-2. 3rd and 4th rnds: Ch 2, skip joining, h dc in each h dc around. Join. 5th rnd: Ch 2, h dc in next 9 h dc, (thread over, draw up a loop in next h dc) twice; thread over and draw through all 5 loops on hook—1 h dc decreased; h dc in next 20 h dc, dec 1 h dc over next 2 h dc, h dc in next 10 h dc. Join. 6th rnd: Ch 2, skip joining, h dc in next 19 h dc, dec 1 h dc over next 2 h dc—center front; h dc in remaining 20 h dc. Join. Break off and fasten.
Crotch: 1st row: Skip first 16 h dc, attach thread to next h dc; ch 1, sc in same st and in next 5 sts. Ch 1, turn. 2nd row: Decreasing 1 sc at both ends of row, sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. 3rd row: Sc in next sc, dec 1 sc over next 2 sc, sc in next sc. Ch 1, turn. 4th row: Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. 5th row: Inc 1 sc in first sc, sc in each remaining sc. Ch 1, turn. Repeat 5th row until there are 7 sc on row. Break off and fasten. Leaving 14 sc free on each side of crotch on last rnd of panties, sew last row of crotch to remaining 7 sc on last rnd. Thread elastic into a needle and double it. Draw doubled elastic through starting chain. Draw up to fit over doll’s hips. Tie ends together and trim.
SLIPPER (Make 2): Starting at center of sole with White, ch 10. 1st rnd: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 7 ch, 3 h dc in next ch for toe end; working along opposite side of starting chain, sc in each ch across. Join to first sc. 2nd rnd: Working in back loop only of each st, ch 2, skip first st, h dc in next st and in each st around. Join. 3rd rnd: Ch 1, working through both loops of each st, sc in each st around, decreasing 1 sc over center st at toe end. Join. Break off and fasten.
Tie: With White, ch 30, sl st in joining of last rnd of slipper, ch 30. Break off and fasten.
FLOWER HAIR ORNAMENT: Starting at center with Mid Rose, ch 2. 1st rnd: Make 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 2nd rnd: Ch 1, sc in first sc, ch 3, * sc in next sc, ch 3. Repeat from * around. Join to first sc. 3rd rnd: In each loop make sc, 2 h dc and sc. Join. Break off and fasten. Insert a straight pin into the sequin and into center of flower. Pin to hair.
Illustrated in color on Front Cover
COATS & CLARK’S O.N.T. “SPEED-CRO-SHEEN” MERCERIZED COTTON: 1 ball each of No. 48 Hunter’s Green, No. 61-D Nu-Ecru and No. 122 Watermelon.
J. & P. COATS “KNIT-CRO-SHEEN”: 1 ball of No. 131 Fudge Brown.
Milwards Steel Crochet Hook No. 1.
Scraps of white, blue, black and red felt; a spray of small flowers.
GAUGE: 6 sts = 1 inch.
Before starting, divide height of spray can into 8 equal parts as follows: Divide height of can in half and mark; divide each half into 2 equal parts and mark (quarters); then divide each quarter into 2 equal parts and mark (8 equal parts).
HAT Top: Starting at center top with Hunter’s Green, ch 4. Join with sl st to form ring. 1st rnd: 7 sc in ring.
NOTE: Do not join rnds unless otherwise stated but carry a contrasting color thread up between last and first st of each rnd to indicate beg of rnds.
2nd rnd: 2 sc in each sc around—14 sc. 3rd rnd: (Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc—1 sc increased) 7 times—21 sc. 4th rnd: (Sc in next 2 sc, inc 1 sc in next sc) 7 times—28 sc. 5th rnd: Increasing 7 sc evenly spaced, sc in each sc around. Repeat last rnd until piece is same size as bottom of spray can. Cut a cardboard circle same size as crocheted piece. Next rnd: Sl st loosely in each sc around.
Side: 1st rnd: Working in the back loop only of each sc (behind the sl sts), sc in next 3 sts, h dc in next 3 sts, dc in each remaining st around. Tack the cardboard circle to the wrong side of Top. 2nd rnd: Dc in each st around. Repeat 2nd rnd until length from sl st rnd is ⅜ the height of the spray can. Now work over next 6 sts as follows: H dc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts. Next rnd: Sl st loosely in each st around. Join with sl st to first sl st. Break off and fasten.
Face: With right side facing, attach Ecru in the back loop of the dc behind joining. 1st rnd: Working in the back loop only of each st (behind sl sts), sc in each st around. 2nd rnd: Sc in each sc around. Repeat 2nd rnd until total length is ⅞ the height of the spray can. Now sl st loosely in each sc around. Join, break off and fasten.
Top Brim: With Top of Hat facing, attach Hunter’s Green to the front loop of the joining sl st on the last sl st rnd of Side of Hat. 1st rnd: Working in the front loop only of each sl st and increasing 14 sc evenly spaced, sc in each st around. Next 5 rnds: Working through both loops of each st and increasing 7 sc evenly spaced, sc in each sc around. Last rnd: Sc in each sc around. Join, break off and fasten.
Under Brim: With wrong side of Top Brim facing, attach Watermelon to the remaining free loop of the joining sl st on the last sl st rnd of Side of Hat. Working in the remaining free loop of each sl st and starting with first rnd of Top Brim, complete same as Top Brim. Catching the inside loops only along edges, sew both brims together.
DRESS: With right side facing, attach Watermelon to the back loop of first sc (behind sl st) of the last rnd of Face. 1st rnd: Working in the back loop only of each sc (behind sl st), sc in next 3 sc, h dc in next 3 sc, dc in each remaining sc around. 2nd rnd: Working in the back loop only of each st, dc in each st around. Repeat 2nd rnd until total length is same height as spray can. Now work over next 6 sts as follows: H dc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, then sl st loosely in each st around. Join to first sl st. Ch 7, turn.
Ruffle: 1st rnd: * Skip next sl st, sc in the back loop of next sl st, ch 7. Repeat from * to end of the sl st rnd; then continue in the same manner over each rnd of Dress, working in the free loop of every other st. Ch 7, turn. 2nd rnd: * Sc in next loop, ch 7. Repeat from * over previous rnds of loops. Break off and fasten.
HAIR: Divide Fudge Brown “Knit-Cro-Sheen” into 2 equal parts. Use thread double throughout. Ch 4, thread over, insert hook in 4th ch from hook and draw loop through to the height of the ch-4, thread over and draw through 2 loops, (thread over, insert hook in same place and draw loop through to same height, thread over and draw through 2 loops) twice; thread over and draw through all 4 loops on hook, ch 1 to fasten—cluster made; * ch 4, make a cluster in fastening ch st of previous cluster. Repeat from * until 100 clusters have been made. Break off and fasten.
Pin clusters in place on back part of face and across forehead (make additional clusters as needed). Sew hair in place. With felt, cut eyes of white, pupils of blue, lashes of black and mouth of red. Sew in place. Sew flowers to top and undersides of brim.
Illustrated in color on Front Cover
J. & P. COATS “KNIT-CRO-SHEEN”: 2 balls of No. 132-A Parakeet.
Milwards Steel Crochet Hook No. 7.
3 strings of Walco round wood beads, Style No. 7000.
10 inches of round elastic.
Each motif measures 2¼ inches square.
FIRST MOTIF: Starting at center, ch 7. Join with sl st to form ring. 1st rnd: Ch 5, in ring make (5 dc, ch 2) 3 times and 4 dc. Join with sl st to 3rd ch of ch-5. 2nd rnd: In next sp make sl st, ch 1, sc, ch 9 and sc; (ch 5, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, in next sp make sc, ch 9 and sc) 3 times; ch 5, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5. Join with sl st to first sc. 3rd rnd: Sl st in next 4 ch, ch 3, in same loop make 2 dc, ch 3 and 3 dc; * ch 3, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 3, in next ch-9 loop make 3 dc, ch 3 and 3 dc. Repeat from * around, ending with ch 3, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 3. Join to top of ch-3. Break off and fasten.
SECOND MOTIF: Work as for First Motif until the 2nd rnd has been completed. 3rd rnd: Sl st in next 4 ch, ch 3, 2 dc in same loop; now join 2 motifs along one side as follows: Ch 1, sl st in ch-3 of any corner on First Motif, ch 1, 3 dc in same loop on Second Motif, ch 1, sl st in next loop on First Motif, ch 1, sc in next loop on Second Motif, ch 2, sl st in next loop on First Motif, ch 2, sc in next loop on Second Motif, ch 1, sl st in next loop on First Motif, ch 1, 3 dc in ch-9 loop on Second Motif, ch 1, sl st in ch-3 of next corner on First Motif, ch 1, 3 dc in same ch-9 loop on Second Motif; starting at * on 3rd rnd of First Motif, complete rnd exactly as for First Motif (no more joinings).
Make 3 × 5 motifs, joining motifs as Second Motif was joined to First Motif (where corners meet join corners to previous joinings). Join the 3 motif edges to form a circle as follows:
FIRST JOINING MOTIF: Work same as for Second Motif, only join the first and 3rd sides to the corresponding edges of the first and 5th motifs of the first 5-motif strip.
SECOND AND THIRD JOINING MOTIFS: Work same as for Second Motif, only join the first, 2nd and 3rd sides to the corresponding edges of previous motifs.
LOWER EDGE: Attach thread in the corner joining of any 2 motifs on one edge. 1st rnd: Ch 1, sc in same place, * (ch 5, sc in next loop) 3 times; ch 5, sc in joining of next 2 motifs. Repeat from * 4 times more; (ch 5, sc in next loop) 3 times; ch 2, dc in first sc to form last loop—24 loops. Next 3 rnds: * Ch 5, sc in next loop. Repeat from * around, ending with ch 2, dc in dc of last rnd. At end of 4th rnd, break off and fasten. Run elastic through loops of last rnd, overlap ends and sew securely.
TOP: Work same as Lower Edge until the 4th rnd has been completed, but do not break off at end of last rnd. 5th rnd: Ch 5, sc in last loop formed—1 loop increased; * ch 5, in next loop make sc, ch 5 and sc—another loop increased. Repeat from * around, ending with ch 2, dc in dc of last rnd—48 loops. 6th rnd: Inc 1 loop in last loop formed, * ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, inc 1 loop in next loop. Repeat from * around, ending as on 5th rnd—72 loops. 7th rnd: Inc 1 loop in last loop formed, * (ch 5, sc in next loop) twice; ch 5, inc 1 loop in next loop. Repeat from * around, ending as before—96 loops. 8th rnd: Inc 1 loop in loop just formed, * (ch 5, sc in next loop) 3 times; ch 5, inc 1 loop in next loop. Repeat from * around, ending as before—120 loops. 9th rnd: * Ch 5, sc in next loop. Repeat from * around, ending as before—120 loops. Break off and fasten. String 120 beads onto crochet thread; attach thread to last dc made. 10th rnd: * Ch 3, push a bead up close to hook, ch 3, sc in next loop. Repeat from * around, ending with ch 3, push a bead up close to hook, dc in dc of last rnd—120 bead loops. 11th rnd: * Ch 5, sc in the ch st holding next bead. Repeat from * around, ending as on 5th rnd. Next 3 rnds: * Ch 5, sc in next loop. Repeat from * around, ending as before. At end of last rnd, break off and fasten. String 120 beads onto crochet thread; attach thread to last dc made. Next 2 rnds: Repeat 10th and 11th rnds. Break off and fasten.
Make a chain 18 inches long. Run this chain through 4th rnd of loops on Top. Draw together and tie in a bow. Slip over tissue roll.
Illustrated in color on Front Cover
Toy measures 10 inches tall
J. & P. COATS “KNIT-CRO-SHEEN”: 2 balls of No. 131 Fudge Brown; 1 ball of No. 123-A Flamingo.
Milwards Steel Crochet Hook No. 1.
COATS & CLARK’S “O.N.T.” SIX STRAND FLOSS: 1 skein each of No. 12 Black and No. 1 White.
Cut-up nylon hose or cotton batting for stuffing.
GAUGE: 5 sc = 1 inch; 6 sc rnds = 1 inch.
NOTE: Use thread double throughout unless otherwise stated.
LEG (Make 2): With Fudge Brown and starting at bottom of foot, ch 4. Join with sl st to form ring. 1st rnd: Ch 1, 8 sc in ring. 2nd rnd: 2 sc in each sc around—16 sc. 3rd rnd: (Sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 4 times—20 sc. 4th rnd: Sc in back loop of each sc around, then sl st in next sc. 5th rnd: Ch 1, working through both loops of each sc, sc in same place as sl st, * ch 5, sc in next sc. Repeat from * around, ending with ch 5. Join with sl st in first sc—20 loops. 6th rnd: Ch 1, sc in joining; holding the ch-5 loops in front of work, make sc in each sc around. Join. Repeat last 2 rnds 5 times more. Break off and fasten.
BODY: Divide Flamingo into 2 equal parts. Attach double strand of Flamingo in joining of last rnd on first leg. 1st rnd: Ch 1, sc where Flamingo was attached, ch 7 for front crotch, sc in joining of last rnd on 2nd leg, h dc in next 13 sc on 2nd leg, sc in next sc (5 sc remain free on 2nd leg); ch 7 for back crotch, sc in corresponding sc on first leg, h dc in next 13 sc. Do not join rnds, but carry a contrasting color thread up between last and first st of each rnd to indicate beg of rnds. 2nd rnd: H dc in each st around—44 h dc. 3rd rnd: 2 h dc in next h dc, (h dc in next h dc, 2 h dc in next h dc) 5 times—this is front of body; h dc in each remaining h dc—50 h dc. 4th rnd: H dc in each h dc around. 5th rnd: 2 h dc in next h dc, (h dc in next 3 h dc, 2 h dc in next h dc) 5 times; h dc in each remaining h dc—56 h dc. Next 4 rnds: Repeat 4th rnd. 10th rnd: * H dc in next 6 h dc, (thread over, draw up a loop in next h dc) twice; thread over and draw through all 5 loops on hook—1 h dc decreased. Repeat from * 6 times more—7 h dc decreased. Next 2 rnds: Repeat 4th rnd. 13th rnd: Decreasing 7 h dc evenly spaced, h dc in each h dc around. Repeat last 3 rnds until 28 h dc remain. Work 2 rnds even; then * dec 1 h dc over next 2 h dc. Repeat from * around until neck opening is closed. Break off and fasten.
Crotch: Attach Flamingo to the end of the ch-7 at front of body. 1st row: Ch 1, sc where thread was attached, sc in next 6 ch—7 sc. Ch 1, turn. Next 7 rows: Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. At end of last row, break off and fasten. Stuff legs and body firmly. Sew crotch in place.
HEAD Face: Starting at nose, with Black Floss, ch 2. 1st rnd: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 2nd rnd: 2 sc in each sc around—12 sc; then sl st in next sc. Break off and fasten. Attach Fudge Brown in any sc on last rnd. 3rd and 4th rnds: Sc in each sc around. 5th rnd: (Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) 6 times—18 sc. 6th rnd: Repeat 3rd rnd. 7th rnd: (Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 6 times—24 sc; then sl st in next sc. 8th and all even rnds: Work same as for 5th rnd of Leg, having same number of loops as there were sc on last sc rnd worked. 9th rnd: Work as for 6th rnd of Leg. 11th rnd: Ch 1, sc in joining, mark sc just made; sc in next 10 sc, mark last sc worked—these last 11 sc are for lower part of face, remainder of rnd is for upper part of face; (2 sc in next sc—1 sc increased; sc in next sc) 6 times; 2 sc in last sc—31 sc. Join. 13th rnd: Ch 1, sc in joining, sc in next 10 sc; increasing 5 sc evenly spaced across upper part of face, sc in each remaining sc. Join. 14th through 21st rnd: Repeat 8th and 13th rnds alternately 4 times. 22nd rnd: Repeat 8th rnd—56 loops. 23rd rnd: Ch 1, sc in joining, sc in each sc around. Join, break off and fasten.
Back of Head: Starting at center with Fudge Brown, ch 4. Join with sl st to form ring. 1st rnd: Ch 1, 12 sc in ring. Join. 2nd and all even rnds: Work same as for 5th rnd of Leg, having same number of loops as there were sc on last sc rnd worked. 3rd rnd: Ch 1, 2 sc in joining, 2 sc in each sc around—24 sc. Join. 5th and 7th rnds: Ch 1, sc in joining; increasing 12 sc evenly spaced, sc in each sc around. Join—48 loops on last rnd. 9th rnd: Ch 1, sc in joining; increasing 8 sc evenly spaced, sc in each sc around—56 sc. Join, break off and fasten. Sew edges of face and back of head together, stuffing firmly before opening is closed. Sew lower part of head to body.
EAR (Make 2): Work as for Back of Head until the 4th rnd has been completed—24 loops on last rnd. Break off and fasten. Fold in half and sew the sc along curved edges together. Sew folded edges of ears in place on head.
ARM (Make 2): Starting at top with Fudge Brown, ch 6. Join with sl st to form ring. 1st rnd: Ch 1, 12 sc in ring. Repeat 5th and 6th rnds of Leg 6 times. Next 2 rnds: Sc in each sc around. Stuff arm. Press sts of last rnd together; working through both thicknesses make sc, h dc, 2 dc, h dc and sc across. Break off and fasten. Sew arms in place.
COLLAR: Starting at neck edge with single strand of Flamingo, ch 39 to measure 5½ inches. 1st row: Dc in 5th ch from hook, * ch 1, dc in next ch, ch 1, in next ch make dc, ch 1 and dc. Repeat from * across. Turn. 2nd row: In next sp make sl st, ch 6, sc in 3rd ch from hook and dc; * ch 3, sc in 3rd ch from hook—picot made; in next sp make dc, picot and dc. Repeat from * across. Break off and fasten. Place around neck and sew ends together.
LEG RUFFLE (Make 2): With single strand of Flamingo ch 33 to measure 4½ inches. Work same as Collar. Place around leg and sew ends together.
EYE (Make 2): Work same as Face until the 2nd rnd has been completed; sl st in next sc. Break off and fasten. Sew eyes in place. Embroider highlights in eyes with White Floss.
Simple Style-right Cotton Shells
Illustrated in color on Back Cover
| GAUGE: | 8 sts (2 patterns) = 1½ inches; | |||
| 8 rows = 1 inch. | ||||
| BLOCKING MEASUREMENTS | ||||
| Sizes | 12 | 14 | 16 | |
| Body Bust Size (In Inches) | 32 | 34 | 36 | |
| Actual Knitting Measurements | ||||
| Bust | 34 | 36 | 38 | |
| Width across back or front at underarm | 17 | 18 | 19 | |
| Width across back above armhole shaping | 13 | 14 | 15 | |
| Length from shoulder to lower edge | 18 | 19 | 19½ | |
| Length of side seam | 11½ | 12 | 12½ | |
Directions are given for Size 12. Changes for Sizes 14 and 16 are in parentheses.
J. & P. COATS “KNIT-CRO-SHEEN”: 5, (5, 6) balls of No. 1 White, No. 61 Ecru or No. 42 Cream; or 6 (7, 8) balls of any color.
Knitting Needles, 1 pair No. 2 and No. 5.
NOTE: Use thread double throughout.
BACK: Starting at lower edge with double thread and No. 5 needle, cast on 94 (98, 102) sts. Change to No. 2 needles and work in k 1, p 1 ribbing for 2 inches, decreasing one st on last row. Change to No. 5 needles and work in pattern over 93 (97, 101) sts as follows: 1st row: K 2, * p 1, O, sl 1, k 2 tog, p.s.s.o., O. Repeat from * across to within last 3 sts, p 1, k 2. 2nd row (right side): K 2, * k 1, p 3. Repeat from * across to within last 3 sts, k 3. 3rd row: K 2, * p 1, k 3. Repeat from * across to within last 3 sts, p 1, k 2. 4th row: Repeat 2nd row. Repeat last 4 rows for pattern. Work in pattern until total length is 11½ (12, 12½) inches, ending with a wrong-side row.
Armhole Shaping: Keeping continuity of pattern, bind off 4 sts at beg of next 6 rows. Work even over remaining 69 (73, 77) sts until length from first row of armhole shaping is 6 (6½, 6½) inches, ending with a wrong-side row.
Neck Shaping: 1st row: Work in pattern across 25 sts, bind off next 19 (23, 27) sts for back neck edge, work in pattern across remaining 25 sts. 2nd row: Work in pattern over this set of sts to within last 4 sts, (k 2 tog) twice. 3rd row: (K 2 tog) twice; complete row in pattern. Continue in pattern over remaining 21 sts until length from first row of armhole shaping is 6½ (7, 7) inches, ending at armhole edge.
Shoulder Shaping: At armhole edge bind off 8 sts on every other row twice; at same edge bind off remaining 5 sts. Attach thread at opposite side of back neck edge and work other side to correspond, reversing shapings.
FRONT: Work same as Back until length from first row of armhole shaping is 3 (3½, 3½) inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Starting with Neck Shaping, complete Front same as Back.
Block to measurements. Sew left shoulder seam.
NECKBAND: With right side of work facing, No. 2 needles and starting at right back shoulder, pick up and k 132 (140, 140) sts along entire neck edge to right front shoulder. 1st row: * K 1, p 1. Repeat from * across. 2nd row: Purling the sts, bind off 4 sts, * transfer the single st on right-hand needle back onto left-hand needle, cast on 2 sts onto left—hand needle; purling the sts, bind off 6 sts. Repeat from * across until all sts are bound off. Sew right shoulder seam.
ARMBAND: With right side facing and No. 2 needles, pick up and k 108 (114, 114) sts along entire armhole edge. Work same as Neckband. Sew side seams.
Illustrated in color on Back Cover
Directions are given for Size 12.
Changes for Sizes 14 and 16
are in parentheses.
J. & P. COATS “KNIT-CRO-SHEEN”: 6 (7, 8) balls of No. 1 White, No. 61 Ecru or No. 42 Cream; or 8 (9, 10) balls of any color.
Crochet Hook Size G.
| GAUGE: | 3 sc and 1 shell = 1½ inches; | |||
| 5 rows = 2 inches. | ||||
| BLOCKING MEASUREMENTS | ||||
| Sizes | 12 | 14 | 16 | |
| Body Bust Size (In Inches) | 32 | 34 | 36 | |
| Actual Crocheting Measurements | ||||
| Bust | 34 | 37 | 40 | |
| Width across back or front at underarm | 17 | 18½ | 20 | |
| Width across back or front above armhole | ||||
| shaping (excluding borders) | 15½ | 15½ | 17 | |
| Length from shoulder to lower edge | 18 | 19 | 19½ | |
| Length of side seam (excluding borders) | 12 | 12½ | 12½ | |
NOTE: Use thread double throughout.
BACK: Starting at lower edge, ch 68 (74, 80), having 4 ch to 1 inch. Next row (right side): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch, * skip next ch, 3 dc in next ch, skip next ch, sc in next 3 ch. Repeat from * across, ending with 2 sc (instead of 3 sc). Ch 3, turn. Now work as follows: 1st row: Dc in first sc, * skip next sc, sc in next 3 dc, skip next sc, 3 dc in next sc. Repeat from * across, ending with 2 dc in last sc (instead of 3 dc). There are 67 (73, 79) sts, counting the ch-3 as 1 dc. Ch 1, turn. 2nd row: Sc in first 2 dc, * skip next sc, 3 dc in next sc, skip next sc, sc in next 3 dc. Repeat from * across, ending with skip next sc, 3 dc in next sc, skip next sc, sc in next dc and in top of turning chain. Ch 3, turn. Repeat first and 2nd rows for pattern. Work even in pattern until total length is 12 (12½, 12½) inches, ending with 2nd (1st, 1st) row, omitting turning chain on last row. Turn.
Armhole Shaping: 1st row: Sl st in each of next 3 (6, 6) sts, ch 1, sc in next 2 dc; work in pattern across to within last 3 (6, 6) sts; do not work in remaining sts. Ch 3, turn. Starting with first row of pattern, continue in pattern over 61 (61, 67) sts until length from first row of armhole shaping is 5¼ (5¾, 6¼) inches, ending with first row. Ch 1, turn.
Neck and Shoulder Shaping: 1st row: Work in pattern across the first 13 sts. Ch 3, turn. 2nd row: Work in pattern over these 13 sts only. Break off and fasten. Skip next 35 (35, 41) sts on last long row, attach thread to next st; ch 1, sc in same st where thread was attached and work in pattern across the next 12 sts. Ch 3, turn. Work 1 row in pattern across these 13 sts. Break off and fasten.
FRONT: Work same as Back.
Block to measurements. Sew side and shoulder seams.
Lower Border: With right side facing, attach thread at left side seam at lower edge. 1st rnd: Ch 1, sc in same place; sc evenly around, being careful to keep work flat. Join with sl st to first sc. 2nd rnd: Working from left to right * insert hook in next sc to the right and complete an sc. Repeat from * around. Join. Break off and fasten.
Neck and Armhole Borders: Work same as Lower Border. Press borders.
COATS & CLARK’S O.N.T. “SPEED-CRO-SHEEN” MERCERIZED COTTON: 1 ball each of No. 12-A Blue Sparkle and No. 48 Hunter’s Green; 3 balls of No. 61-D Nu-Ecru.
Milwards Steel Crochet Hook No. 2/0 (double zero).
Embroidery hoop, 6 inches in diameter.
GAUGE: For Side: 19 sts = 3 inches; 11 rows = 2 inches.
BASE: Starting at center with Ecru, ch 2. 1st rnd: Make 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 2nd rnd: (2 sc in next sc—1 sc increased) 6 times—12 sc. 3rd rnd: (Sc in next sc, inc 1 sc in next sc) 6 times. 4th rnd: (Sc in next 2 sc, inc 1 sc in next sc) 6 times. 5th rnd: Sc in each sc around, increasing 6 sc evenly spaced and being careful that increases do not fall over increases of previous rnd. Repeat 5th rnd until there are 96 sc on rnd. Next rnd: Sc in back loop only of each sc around. Following rnd: Sl st in next sc, ch 1; working through both loops of each sc, sc in same sc where sl st was made and in each sc around. Join with sl st to next sc. Next 5 rnds: Ch 1, sc in joining and in each sc around. Join. Ch 1, turn. Following rnd: Sl st in each sc around. Join. Break off and fasten.
SIDE: Starting at long end with Ecru, ch 74 to measure 13½ inches. 1st row (right side): Sc in 2nd ch from hook, * ch 1, draw up a loop in each of next 2 ch, thread over and draw through all loops on hook—joined sc made. Repeat from * across−-1 sc and 36 joined sc. Ch 1, turn. 2nd row: * 2 sc in next joined sc, skip next ch-1. Repeat from * across, ending with sc in last sc, drop Ecru, attach Blue. Ch 1, turn. 3rd row: With Blue, sc in first sc, * ch 1, joined sc over next 2 sc. Repeat from * across. Ch 1, turn. 4th row: With Blue, repeat 2nd row. Break off Blue and fasten. 5th and 6th rows: With Ecru repeat 3rd and 4th rows. Drop Ecru, attach Green. 7th and 8th rows: With Green repeat 3rd and 4th rows. Break off Green and fasten. 9th and 10th rows: With Ecru repeat 3rd and 4th rows. Repeat last 8 rows for pattern. Work in pattern until the 12th Green stripe has been completed. Break off and fasten. With Ecru and right side of work facing, work 1 sc in the end st of each row along one side for bottom of bag—96 sc. Join to first sc. Break off and fasten.
Insert hoop into base of bag. Making catch sts on wrong side of work, sew hoop in place. Sew starting chain of Side to last row. Sew bottom edge of Side to edge of Base.
Cuff and Beading: 1st rnd: Attach Ecru to first end st at top edge of bag; ch 1, make 96 sc around. Join. 2nd rnd: Ch 1, sc in joining and in each sc around. Join. 3rd rnd: Ch 1, sc in joining and in next 3 sc, ch 4, skip 4 sc, * sc in next 8 sc, ch 4, skip next 4 sc. Repeat from * around, ending with sc in last 4 sc. Join. 4th rnd: Ch 1, sc in joining, sc in each sc and in each ch around. Join. 5th rnd: Repeat 2nd rnd. Break off and fasten.
Cord: Cut 5 strands of Ecru, each 5½ yards long. Twist these strands tightly, then double twisted strands and twist in the opposite direction. Knot free ends together. Starting at the seam, draw the folded end through the beading.
Tassel: Wind remaining Green thread around the empty cardboard core of one ball, leaving about 1 yard free for tying. Cut strands and tie at center. Fold strands in half. Wind the remaining tying strand several times around the folded strands, ½ inch down from the fold. Fasten securely and attach to one end of cord. Make a second tassel with Blue and attach to other end of cord. Sew cord to base of bag about 2 inches away from tassels, as shown.
Place Mat measures 11½ × 17 inches
J. & P. COATS “KNIT-CRO-SHEEN”: 5 balls of No. 1 White, No. 61 Ecru or No. 42 Cream; or 8 balls of any color for set of 4 place mats.
Milwards Steel Crochet Hook No. 7.
GAUGE: 3 bls and 3 sps = 1¾ inches; 4 rows = 1 inch.
Starting at long edge, ch 156 to measure 16 inches (10 ch sts to 1 inch). 1st row: Dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 8 ch—3 bls mode; * (ch 2, skip next 2 ch, dc in next ch) 3 times—3 sps made, dc in next 9 ch. Repeat from * across. Ch 3, turn. 2nd row: Skip first dc, * dc in next 9 dc—3 bls over 3 bls made; (ch 2, dc in next dc) 3 times—3 sps over 3 sps made. Repeat from * 7 times more; dc in next 8 dc, dc in top of turning chain. Ch 3, turn. 3rd row: Work same as for 2nd row. Ch 5 (instead of ch 3), turn. 4th row: Skip first 3 dc, dc in next dc, (ch 2, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc) twice; * (2 dc in next sp, dc in next dc) 3 times—3 bls over 3 sps made; (ch 2, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc) 3 times—3 sps over 3 bls made. Repeat from * across to within last 3 bls, (ch 2, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc) twice; ch 2, skip next 2 dc, dc in top of turning chain. Ch 5, turn. 5th row: Skip first dc, dc in next dc, make 2 sps, * 3 bls, 3 sps. Repeat from * across to within last 3 sps, (ch 2, dc in next dc) twice; ch 2, skip next 2 ch, dc in next ch. Ch 5, turn. 6th row: Work as for 5th row. Ch 3 (instead of ch 5), turn. 7th row: Skip first dc, * make 3 bls, 3 sps. Repeat from * across to within last 3 sps, (2 dc in next sp, dc in next dc) twice; 2 dc in last sp, dc in 3rd ch of ch-5. Ch 3, turn. Repeat 2nd through 7th row for pattern. Work in pattern until 39 rows in all have been completed. Ch 3, turn.
BORDER 1st rnd: Make 4 dc in first dc—corner made; make dc in each dc and 2 dc in each sp across to within the turning chain, 5 dc in top of turning chain—another corner made; working along narrow edge, make 2 dc over the end st of each end bl and 3 dc over end st of each end sp on each row to next corner; working along opposite side of starting chain, make 5 dc in first ch and continue across to correspond with opposite long edge, ending with 5 dc in last ch; work across next narrow edge to correspond with opposite narrow edge. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. 2nd and 3rd rnds: Ch 3, dc in each dc around, making 5 dc in center dc of each 5-dc group at each corner. Join. 4th rnd: Ch 1, * working from left to right, insert hook in next dc to the right and draw loop through, thread over and draw through 2 loops on hook. Repeat from * around. Join. Break off and fasten.
Block to measurements.
Illustrated in color on Front Cover
J. & P. COATS “KNIT-CRO-SHEEN”: 4 balls of No. 126 Spanish Red and 1 ball of No. 212 Flag Blue.
Milwards Steel Crochet Hooks No. 7 and No. 2/0 (double zero).
Round box pillow, 12 inches in diameter and 2 inches deep.
GAUGE: 6 dc = 1 inch; 5 rnds = 2 inches.
BACK: Starting at center with double strand of Spanish Red and No. 2/0 hook, ch 2. 1st rnd: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Join with sl st to back loop of first sc.
NOTE: Work through back loop of each st throughout.
2nd rnd: Ch 3, 2 dc in joining, 3 dc in each sc around. Join to top of ch-3—18 dc, counting ch-3 as 1 dc. 3rd rnd: Ch 3, dc in joining, 2 dc in each dc around. Join as before—36 dc, counting ch-3 as 1 dc. 4th rnd: Ch 3, dc in joining, dc in next 2 dc, * 2 dc in next dc—1 dc increased; dc in next 2 dc. Repeat from * around. Join—12 dc increased. 5th rnd: Increasing 16 dc evenly spaced, dc in each dc around. Join. Repeat 5th rnd until piece measures 12 inches in diameter. Break off and fasten.
FRONT: Work same as Back until piece measures 12 inches in diameter. Do not break off at end of last rnd.
Gusset: Next 4 rnds: Ch 3, skip joining, dc in each dc around. Join. Break off and fasten.
LOOPS 1st rnd: With right side facing and No. 7 hook, attach a single strand of Flag Blue to free loop of any sc on first rnd of Front; sc in same place, ch 3, * sc in free loop of next sc, ch 3. Repeat from * around. Join to first sc. Break off and fasten. 2nd rnd: With No. 7 hook and a single strand of Flag Blue, attach thread to any free loop of any dc on next rnd of Front; sc in same place, ch 3, * sc in free loop of next dc, ch 3. Repeat from * around. Join. Break off and fasten. Repeat 2nd rnd until all rnds of Front and Gusset have been covered with loops, omitting last rnd of Gusset. Next rnd: Working in front loop of each dc, repeat 2nd rnd. Break off and fasten.
With No. 2/0 hook and double strand of Spanish Red, join Gusset to Back as follows: With wrong sides facing, pin Back to Gusset. Working through back loop of each st on last rnd of Gusset, and through both loops of each st on last rnd of Back, sl st in each st around, inserting pillow before opening becomes too small. Break off and fasten.
COATS & CLARK’S O.N.T. “SPEED-CRO-SHEEN” MERCERIZED COTTON: 8 balls of No. 51 Spice.
Milwards Steel Crochet Hook No. 2/0 (double zero).
A 12-inch square box pillow, 2 inches deep.
GAUGE: Pattern Stitch: 6 sts = 1 inch; 6 rows = 1 inch.
FRONT: Ch 73 to measure 12¼ inches. 1st row (right side): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. 2nd and all even rows: Working through both loops of each st, sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. 3rd row: * Sc in the back loop of each of next 3 sc, (dc around bar of next sc 2 rows below—see Fig. 1—raised dc made) 3 times; skip the 3 sc directly behind the 3 raised dc. Repeat from * across. Ch. 1, turn.
Fig. 1
NOTE: Hereafter, always skip the 3 sc directly behind the 3 raised dc.
Fig. 2
5th row: Sc in the back loop of first 2 sc, * raised dc around the bar of next sc 2 rows below, (raised dc around the bar of next raised dc 2 rows below) twice—see Fig. 2; sc in back loop of next 3 sc. Repeat from * across to within last 4 sts, raised dc around bar of next sc 2 rows below, (raised dc around bar of next raised dc 2 rows below) twice; sc through both loops of last sc. Ch 1, turn. 7th row: Sc in back loop of first sc, * raised dc around bar of next sc 2 rows below, (raised dc around bar of next raised dc 2 rows below) twice; sc in back loop of next 3 sc. Repeat from * across to within last 5 sts, make 3 raised dc as before, sc in back loop of next sc, sc through both loops of last sc. Ch 1, turn. 9th row: * Raised dc around bar of next sc 2 rows below, (raised dc around bar of next raised dc 2 rows below) twice; sc in back loop of next 3 sc. Repeat from * across, making last sc through both loops of last sc. Ch 1, turn. 11th row: Sc in back loop of first sc, * skip first raised dc of next raised-dc group 2 rows below, (raised dc around bar of next raised dc) twice; raised dc around bar of next sc 2 rows below, sc in back loop of next 3 sc. Repeat from * across to within last 5 sc, skip first raised dc of next raised-dc group 2 rows below, (raised dc around bar of next raised dc) twice; sc in back loop of next sc, sc through both loops of last sc. Ch 1, turn. 13th row: Sc in back loop of first 2 sc, * skip first raised dc of next raised-dc group 2 rows below, (raised dc around bar of next raised dc) twice; raised dc around bar of next sc 2 rows below, sc in back loop of next 3 sc. Repeat from * across to within last 4 sc, make 3 raised dc as before, sc through both loops of last sc. Ch 1, turn. 15th row: * Sc in back loop of next 3 sc, skip first raised dc of next raised-dc group 2 rows below, (raised dc around bar of next raised dc) twice; raised dc around bar of next sc 2 rows below. Repeat from * across. Ch 1, turn. 16th row: Repeat 2nd row. Repeat 5th through 16th row until length is 12 inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Do not turn.
Edging: Make 2 sc in same place where last sc was made; being careful to keep work flat, sc closely along the side edge, making 3 sc in same place at next corner; working along opposite side of starting chain, sc in each ch across, making 3 sc in same place at next corner; work along next side edge same as on first side edge, making 3 sc in same place at next corner. Join with sl st to next sc. Break off and fasten.
BACK: Ch 73 to measure 12¼ inches. 1st row: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. 2nd row: Working through both loops of each sc, sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. Repeat 2nd row until length is 12 inches. Do not break off. Work edging as for Front.
GUSSET: Starting at narrow end, ch 13. 1st row: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. 2nd row: Working in back loop only of each sc, sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. Repeat 2nd row until length is 48 inches. Break off and fasten.
Pin gusset around the 4 sides of the front. With right side of front facing and working through both thicknesses, sc closely around the 4 sides. Break off and fasten. Crochet gusset to back same as front, inserting pillow while joining. Sew narrow ends of gusset together.
| Always Use | ||
| COATS & CLARK’S BOILFAST® | ||
| Crochet Cottons | ||
A dainty cozy for buns or rolls, that folds flat for storage.
J. & P. COATS “KNIT-CRO-SHEEN”: 1 ball of No. 42 Cream and 2 balls of No. 108 Steel Blue.
Milwards Steel Crochet Hook No. 7.
Cozy measures 10 inches in diameter and will hold 12 rolls.
GAUGE: 9 sts = 1 inch; 3 dc rnds and 3 sc rnds = 1¼ inches.
FIRST AND SECOND CIRCLES: Starting at center with Steel Blue, ch 4. 1st rnd: Make 11 dc in 4th ch from hook. Join with sl st to top of starting chain.
NOTE: Hereafter work in back loop only of each st throughout.
Fig. 1
2nd rnd: Ch 1, 2 sc in joining—1 sc increased; make 2 sc in each dc around—24 sc. Join to first sc. 3rd rnd: Ch 3, skip joining, 2 dc in next sc—1 dc increased; * dc in next sc, 2 dc in next sc. Repeat from * around—36 dc, counting the ch-3 as 1 dc. Join to top of ch-3. 4th rnd: Ch 1, increasing 12 sc evenly spaced, sc in each dc around. Join. 5th rnd: Ch 3, skip joining, increasing 12 dc evenly spaced, dc in each sc around. Join. Next 2 rnds: Repeat 4th and 5th rnds, omitting the joining on last rnd. Drop Steel Blue, attach Cream. With Cream join to top of ch-3. 8th rnd: Ch 1, sc in joining, * dc around bar of next dc—raised dc made (see Fig. 1); skip the dc directly behind raised dc, sc in next 6 dc, 3 sc in next dc, sc in next 6 dc. Repeat from * around, ending with sc in last 5 dc. Drop Cream, pick up Steel Blue. Join. 9th rnd: Ch 3, skip joining, * 3 dc in next raised dc—3-dc group made; dc in each sc across to within next raised dc. Repeat from * around, ending with dc in each remaining sc. Drop Steel Blue, pick up Cream. Join. 10th rnd: Ch 1, sc in joining, sc in next dc, * raised dc around bar of next dc, skip the dc directly behind raised dc; making 3 sc in the center dc between last 3-dc group used and next 3-dc group, sc in each dc across to within center dc of next 3-dc group. Repeat from * around, ending with 3 sc in center dc between last 3-dc group used and next 3-dc group; sc in each remaining sc. Drop Cream, pick up Steel Blue. Join. 11th rnd: Ch 3, skip joining, * dc in each sc across to within next raised dc, 3 dc in next raised dc. Repeat from * around, ending with dc in each remaining sc. Drop Steel Blue, pick up Cream. Join. 12th rnd: Ch 1, sc in joining and in each sc to within center dc of next 3-dc group, * raised dc around bar of next dc, skip the dc directly behind raised dc; making 3 sc in center dc between last 3-dc group used and next 3-dc group, sc in each dc across to within center dc of next 3-dc group. Repeat from * around. End, change color and join as on 10th rnd. Next 10 rnds: Repeat 11th and 12th rnds alternately. Following rnd: Repeat 11th rnd. Last rnd: Ch 5, skip joining and following 2 dc, * working through both loops, sl st in next dc, ch 5, skip next 2 dc. Repeat from * around, ending with ch 5. Join. Break off both colors and fasten.
THIRD CIRCLE: Work as for previous circles, reversing the colors.
Block, press. Place circle with Cream center over circle with Steel Blue center, matching sections. Leaving the 3—inch center of solid color free, sew sections together, leaving outer edges free to form 6 pockets. Place remaining circle under the two sewed circles, matching sections. Sew seams between the seams of the first 2 circles to form alternating pockets.
Directions are given for Small Size.
Changes for Medium and Large Sizes are in parentheses.
J. & P. COATS “KNIT-CRO-SHEEN”: 2 balls each of No. 65 Beauty Pink and No. 68 Skipper Blue for all sizes.
Milwards Steel Crochet Hook No. 2/0 (double zero).
Felt for soles.
Elastic thread.
GAUGE: 11 sc = 2 inches.
NOTE: The wrong side of work is the right side of the slipper. One tr forms a popcorn. Thread is used double throughout.
FRONT: Starting at toe with one strand of each color, ch 2. 1st rnd: 7 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Do not join rnds.
NOTE: Hereafter work in back loop only of each st unless otherwise stated.
2nd rnd: Place a colored thread for marker between last st worked and next st to be worked, to indicate start of Sole; make 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, place another colored thread between last st worked and next st to be worked, to indicate end of Sole; then work across remaining sts as follows: In next sc make sc and tr; sc in next sc, tr in next sc, sc in next sc; in next sc make tr and sc. Always carry markers up on each rnd. 3rd rnd: 2 sc in first sc—one sc increased at beg of Sole; sc in each sc to within 1 sc before next marker, inc 1 sc in next sc—1 sc increased at end of Sole; in next sc make sc and tr—one st increased at beg of Upper; sc in next tr, * tr in next sc, sc in next tr. Repeat from * across to within one st before next marker, in next sc make tr and sc—one st increased at end of Upper. Repeat 3rd rnd until there are 20 sts on Sole and 23 sts on Upper. Next rnd: Sc in each sc to next marker, tr in next sc, * sc in next tr, tr in next sc. Repeat from * across to next marker. Following rnd: Sc in each sc to next marker, sc in next tr, * tr in next sc, sc in next tr. Repeat from * across to next marker. Repeat last 2 rnds until total length of Sole is 3½ (4, 4½) inches.
BACK SOLE: Hereafter work through both loops of each sc, unless otherwise stated. Work is now done in rows.
1st row: Ch 1, draw up a loop in each of next 2 sc, thread over and draw through all loops on hook—1 sc decreased; sc in each sc to within 2 sc before next marker, dec 1 sc over next 2 sc—18 sc. Remove markers. Ch 1, turn. 2nd row: Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. 3rd row: Decreasing 1 sc at each side, sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. 4th row: Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. Repeat 4th row until total length of Sole is 6½ (7½, 8½) inches. Next 6 rows: Repeat 3rd row. Break off and fasten.
SIDES: With right side of Upper facing, attach thread to Sole following last rnd of Upper. 1st row: Make 49 (53, 57) sc evenly spaced along entire Back Sole. Ch 1, turn. 2nd row: Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. Repeat 2nd row until Side measures 1½ inches, ending with a right-side row. Ch 1, turn. Next row: Sc in first sc, * tr in next sc, sc in next sc. Repeat from * across. Break off and fasten.
Sew narrow edges of Sides to corresponding edges of Upper. Draw elastic thread through entire top edge, holding it in to desired size. Cut felt sole and sew in place.
Guaranteed to please the man in your life!
Directions are given for Small Size.
Changes for Medium and Large Sizes are in parentheses.
COATS & CLARK’S O.N.T. “SPEED-CRO-SHEEN” MERCERIZED COTTON: 4 balls of No. 51 Spice for all sizes.
Milwards Steel Crochet Hook No. 2/0 (double zero).
Felt for inner soles.
GAUGE: 11 sc = 2 inches; 11 rows = 2 inches.
SOLE: Starting at heel, ch 8. 1st row: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across—7 sc. Ch 1, turn. 2nd row: 2 sc in first sc—1 sc increased; sc in each sc across to within last sc, inc 1 sc in last sc. Ch 1, turn. Next 3 rows: Repeat 2nd row. There are 15 sc on 5th row. 6th row: Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. Work even until total length is 4½ (5, 5½) inches. Next row: Repeat 2nd row. Work 3 rows even. Following row: Repeat 2nd row—19 SC. Work even until total length is 9 (10, 11) inches. Dec row: Draw up a loop in each of next 2 sc, thread over and draw through all loops on hook—1 sc decreased; sc in each sc across to within last 2 sc, dec 1 sc over last 2 sc. Ch 1, turn. Work 1 row even. Next 7 rows: Repeat dec row. Break off and fasten.
Top—Front: Starting at toe, ch 4. 1st row: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each of next 2 ch—6 sc. Ch 1, turn. 2nd row: Increasing 1 sc at both ends, sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. Repeat 2nd row until there are 26 (28, 30) sc on row. Ch 1, turn. Work even until total length is 5 (5½, 6) inches. Ch 1, turn.
Sides: 1st row: Sc in each of the next 13 (14, 15) sc, ch 6; do not work in remaining sts. 2nd row: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch and in each sc across—18 (19, 20) sc. Work even for 6 (6½, 7) inches. Break off and fasten.
Working across remaining sts of Top, ch 5, sc in next free sc on last row of Top and in each sc across. Complete to correspond with other side.
Press through damp cloth. Cut felt slightly smaller than sole and sew to sole. Sew back seam. Pin top to sole, having felt on the inside. Working through both thicknesses, sc around. Break off and fasten. Turn cuff to right side as shown and tack in place.
small, medium, large
Illustrated in color on Front Cover
Directions are given for Small Size.
Changes for Medium and Large Sizes are in parentheses.
J. & P. COATS “KNIT-CRO-SHEEN”: 2 balls each of No. 108 Steel Blue and No. 76 Robinette for each size.
Knitting Needles, 1 pair No. 3.
2 wooden buttons, ¾ inch in diameter.
GAUGE: Stockinette stitch: 13 sts = 2 inches; 9 rows = 1 inch.
NOTE: Thread is used double throughout.
OUTER SOLE: Starting at heel with 2 strands of Steel Blue, cast on 9 sts. Work in stockinette st (p 1 row, k 1 row), increasing one st at both ends of every k row 4 times. Work even on 17 sts until length is 3½ (4, 4½) inches, ending with a p row. Inc one st at both ends of next row and every 4th row thereafter 3 times in all. Work even on 23 sts until total length is 6 (6½, 7) inches, ending with a p row. Dec one st at both ends of next and every 4th row until 17 sts remain, then dec one st at both ends of every other row until 9 sts remain, ending with a p row. Bind off.
INNER SOLE: With Robinette work same as Outer Sole.
UPPER—Front (Make 2): Starting at lower edge with Blue, cast on 24 (26, 28) sts. Drop Blue, attach Robinette.
NOTE: When changing colors, pick up the new color from behind the color just used, and carry the color not in use loosely along side edge.
Upper is worked in garter st (k each row), making 2 rows of Robinette and 2 rows of Blue alternately. Work 3 rows even, then dec one st at both ends of next and every other row thereafter until 2 sts remain. K 2 tog. Break off.
SLING STRAP: Starting at upper edge with Blue, cast on 48 (54, 60) sts. Work in stripe pattern as for Upper—Front, decreasing one st at both ends of every other row until 38 (48, 50) sts remain, ending with a Robinette stripe. Next row: With Blue, k across. Bind off.
BUTTON: With Robinette, cast on 6 sts. Work in stockinette st, increasing one st at both ends of every other row twice. Work 3 rows even, then dec one st at both ends of every other row twice. Bind off, leaving an 8-inch length of thread. Thread this length into a needle and draw around entire outer edge. Insert button, pull up thread tightly and fasten securely.
Press pieces through damp cloth. Cut a piece of heavy cardboard slightly smaller than soles. Insert cardboard between the 2 soles and sew together. Leaving 2 (2½, 3) inches free across toe of sole, sew cast-on edge of each upper to one side of sole, as shown. Overlap points about 1 inch or to desired size and sew together. Sew button in place. Sew each narrow edge of sling strap to corresponding edge of upper, as shown. If desired, run a double strand of elastic thread along upper edge of sling strap, holding in to desired size.
J. & P. COATS “KNIT-CRO-SHEEN”: 1 ball of No. 1 White.
Milwards Steel Crochet Hook No. 7.
COLLAR (Make 2): Starting at neck edge, ch 83, having 9 ch to 1 inch. 1st row: Dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each ch across—81 dc, counting the ch-3 as 1 dc. Ch 1, turn. 2nd row: Sc in first dc, * ch 4, skip next 3 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across, ending with ch 4, skip last 3 dc, sc in top of ch-3—20 loops. Ch 1, turn. 3rd row: Sc in first sc, 3 sc in next loop, 2 sc in next loop, * ch 5, 5 dc in next loop, ch 5, 2 sc in next loop, 3 sc in each of next 2 loops, 2 sc in next loop. Repeat from * across to within last 3 loops, ch 5, 5 dc in next loop, ch 5, 2 sc in next loop, 3 sc in next loop, sc in last sc. Ch 1, turn. 4th row: Sc in first 5 sc, * ch 5, dc in next 2 dc, in next dc make dc, ch 4 and dc; dc in next 2 dc, ch 5, skip next sc, sc in next 8 sc. Repeat from * across, ending with ch 5, skip next sc, sc in last 5 sc. Ch 1, turn. 5th row: Sc in first 4 sc, * ch 6, dc in next 3 dc, ch 4, sc in next loop, ch 4, dc in next 3 dc, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 6 sc. Repeat from * across, ending with ch 6, skip next sc, sc in last 4 sc. Ch 1, turn. 6th row: Sc in first 3 sc, * ch 6, dc in next 3 dc, (ch 4, sc in next loop) twice; ch 4, dc in next 3 dc, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 4 sc. Repeat from * across, ending with ch 6, skip next sc, sc in last 3 sc. Ch 1, turn. 7th row: Sc in first 2 sc, * ch 6, dc in next 3 dc, (ch 4, sc in next loop) 3 times; ch 4, dc in next 3 dc, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 2 sc. Repeat from * across, ending with ch 6, skip next sc, sc in last 2 sc. Ch 1, turn. 8th row: Sc in first 2 sc, * ch 6, dc in next 3 dc, (ch 4, sc in next loop) 4 times; ch 4, dc in next 3 dc, ch 6, sc in next 2 sc. Repeat from * across, ending with ch 6, sc in last 2 sc. Ch 7, turn. 9th row: * Dc in next 3 dc, (ch 4, sc in next loop) twice; 13 dc in next loop, (sc in next loop, ch 4) twice; dc in next 3 dc, skip next sc, tr tr in next sc. Repeat from * across. Ch 3, turn. 10th row: 2 dc in first tr tr—half shell made; * sc in next loop, 5 dc in next sc—shell made; sc in next loop, dc in next sc, dc in 13 dc, dc in next sc, sc in next loop, shell in next sc, sc in next loop, shell in next tr tr. Repeat from * across, ending with 3 dc in top of ch-7—half shell made. Break off and fasten.
EDGING: With right side of first row facing, attach thread in end of starting chain. Working along narrow edge, ch 1, sc where thread was attached, ch 3, sc in 3rd ch from hook—picot made; sc in top of ch-3 of first row, (picot, skip end st of next row, sc in end st of following row) 3 times; in next sp make (picot and sc) twice; picot, sc in base of half shell, picot, in first dc of half shell make sc, picot and sc; working along outer edge of collar, make sc in each st to within center dc of next shell, in center dc make sc, picot and sc; * sc in next 5 sts, (in next dc make sc, picot and sc; sc in next 4 dc) twice; in next dc make sc, picot and sc; (sc in each st to within center dc of next shell, in center dc make sc, picot and sc) 3 times. Repeat from * across to within the ch-3 of last half shell, in the top of ch-3 make sc, picot and sc; work across other narrow edge to correspond with first narrow edge. Break off and fasten.
CUFF (Make 2): Starting at wrist edge, ch 78. 1st row: Work same as first row of Collar—76 dc, counting ch-3 as 1 dc. Ch 1, turn. 2nd row: Sc in first dc, * ch 4, skip next 4 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across, ending with ch 4, skip last 4 dc, sc in top of ch-3—15 loops. Starting with the 3rd row, complete cuff same as collar. Press.
ABBREVIATIONS
| ch | chain | p | purl | |
| st(s) | stitch(es) | bl(s) | block(s) | |
| sc | single | sp(s) | space(s) | |
| crochet | inc | increase | ||
| h dc | half double | dec | decrease | |
| crochet | beg | beginning | ||
| dc | double | rnd | round | |
| crochet | tog | together | ||
| tr | treble | sl | slip | |
| tr tr | treble treble | p.s.s.o. | pass | |
| sl st | slip stitch | slipped stitch over | ||
| k | knit | O | yarn over |
*Repeat whatever follows the * as many times as specified.
() Do what is in parentheses the number of times indicated.
THE END
TRANSCRIBER NOTES
Misspelled words and printer errors have been corrected. Where multiple spellings occur, majority use has been employed.
Illustrations have been moved from their original locations due to using a non-page layout.
Punctuation has been maintained except where obvious printer errors occur.
Book cover is placed in the public domain.
[The end of Book No. 168: Bazaar Crochet and Knit by Coats and Clark, Inc.]