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Dedicated, by Permission, to HIS MAJESTY.

T. Gillet, Printer, Salisbury Square.

Having put to sea from Onehow, as before March 1792 related, we stood to the N. W. close-hauled, with a moderate breeze at N. N. E. attended by a heavy swell from the N. W. until Saturday morning the 17th March, 1792, when the wind having veered to that quarter, we made sail to the N. E. in order that we might pass to the north of the Sandwich islands, and be enabled to steer to the eastward, should the wind continue its northern direction, from whence it had lately prevailed. By noon the wind blew a fresh gale from N. N. W. attended with some trifling squalls; our latitude was now 22° 16′, longitude 199° 17′; the west point of Onehow bearing by compass S. 57 E. eight leagues distant. About two in the afternoon we discovered a spring in the main-mast on the larboard side, about six feet below the hounds. This part of the mast had occupied much of our attention since our departure from Teneriffe, in consequence of a suspicious appearance near a rugged knot, opposite to the place where the defect now became evident. We were under an immediate necessity of getting down the top-gallant mast, with every moveable out of the top; close-reefing the topsail, and lightening the head of the mast as much as possible, until a fish should be prepared; which the carpenters lost no time in getting ready. A defect was also discovered in the head of the foremast, above the rigging, which was of less importance, and did not require any additional security for the present.

At sun-set Attowai bore by compass from S. 80 E. to S. 45 E. and from Onehow S. 4. W. to S. 14 W. The wind remaining in the N. W. we stood on, and about midnight passed the north point of Attowai at no great distance; though the weather being very dark and hazy, prevented our seeing the land.

On Sunday the 18th in the morning, we took our departure from the Sandwich islands: Attowai bearing by compass from S. 5. E. to S. 30 W. 10 or 11 leagues distant. In the afternoon all the sails were furled on the main-mast, and we were employed until six in the evening in fixing the fish, and securing the head of the mast; when the sails were again set, and we proceeded to the E. N. E. The wind was generally to the westward of north, with cool and pleasant, though generally cloudy weather, attended by a great swell from the N. W. which indicated the wind having blown with much violence in that direction. The main-mast, after a trial of some days in a fresh gale with a heavy sea, not seeming to complain, the top-gallant mast was on Friday the 23d got up, and the usual quantity of sail carried. The N. W. swell had now almost subsided, and the wind veered round to N. E. with which we stood to the N. N. W. The weather continuing dark and gloomy prevented our making any observations on the solar eclipse this morning; but at noon our observed latitude was 24° 43′, longitude 209° 6′; and in the afternoon the variation was found to be 11° 5′ eastwardly.

Our course was directed to the eastward or northward as the wind veered, which was mostly on the northern board, blowing a moderate breeze with pleasant weather. On Thursday the 29th, in latitude 27°, I got five sets of distances of the moon and sun; the mean result gave the longitude 214° 21′ 15″; by the chronometer it was 213° 46′ 30″; and by the dead reckoning, 211° 44′. This error in the dead reckoning seemed April 1792 gradually to have taken place since our departure from Attowai; and many of the officers having lately made several lunar observations with great accuracy, whose mean result gave from 25′ to 40′ east of the chronometer, I was led to believe, that our change of climate (the thermometer having fallen from about 80 to about 66 since leaving the Sandwich islands,) had caused some acceleration in its rate of going. From hence our progress was attended by a very smooth sea, and in general by cloudy and gloomy weather. The wind between N. by W. and N. N. E. blew so gently, that on the 7th of April we had only reached the latitude of 35° 25′; longitude 217° 24′, by the dead reckoning 214° 42′; when we found ourselves in the midst of immense numbers of the sea blubber of the species of the Medusa Villilia; so that the surface of the ocean as far as the eye could reach, was covered with these animals in such abundance, that even a pea could hardly be dropped clear of them. The largest did not exceed four inches in circumference; and adhering to them was found a worm of a beautiful blue colour, much resembling a caterpillar. This worm is about an inch and a half long, thickest toward the head, forming a three-sided figure, its back being the broadest; its belly, or under part was provided with a festooned membrane, with which it attached itself to the medusa villilia. Along the ridge connecting the sides and back from the shoulders to the tail, on each side, are numberless small fibres, about the eighth of an inch in length, like the downy hair of insects, but much more substantial; probably intended to assist the animal in its progress through the water. This worm or caterpillar Mr. Menzies considered to be a new genus. We saw also in the forenoon a bird, which I took to be of the duck or awke kind, flying to the N. W. but at too great a distance to discover its character.

Since our leaving the land we had been daily visited by one or two large birds, but not more at a time, which we sometimes took for the quebrantahuessos, and at others for a species of albatross. On Sunday the 8th, the weather being perfectly calm, Mr. Menzies was so fortunate as to determine this point, by killing a brown albatross; of the same sort, I believe, as are found in abundance about Tierra del Fuego, distinguished vulgarly by the name of Mother Cary’s geese, on account of the white rump, shape of the tail, &c. which resemble the storm petrel, commonly called Mother Cary’s chicken. This albatross had also a white mark, about the eighth of an inch wide, and two inches long, extending in a diagonal direction from the inner corner of its eye towards the neck. From tip to tip of each wing it measured seven feet; and, from the extremity of the beak to that of the tail, three feet.

The weather continued pleasant, nearly calm or with light variable breezes until Tuesday the 10th, when in latitude 36°, longitude 219° 34′, the wind blew a moderate gale, and seemed settled in the southern quarter; with which we made all sail, steering to the eastward. Notwithstanding I had, in case of separation with the Chatham, appointed our next rendezvous in Berkley’s sound, yet whilst we were so fortunate as to keep together, it was my fixed determination to fall in with the coast of New Albion as far to the southward of that station as circumstances would permit.

Several small whales and grampusses had lately been observed about the ship; and this afternoon we passed within a few yards of about twenty whales of the anvil-headed or spermaceti kind, that were playing in the water. The immense number of the medusa with which this region abounds, may probably induce the spermaceti whale to resort hither in quest of food. We now advanced very pleasantly to the eastward, and gradually lost sight of the medusa villilia, which had attended us in the greatest abundance over a space of seven degrees of longitude; and, as Mr. Johnstone of the Chatham paid particular attention to these extraordinary creatures, I shall insert his description of them.

“These small blubbers are of an oval form, quite flat, and measuring about an inch and an half the longest way; their under side is somewhat concave; the edges, for near a quarter of an inch in width, are of a deep blue colour, changing inwardly to a pale green; the substance being much thinner and more transparent there than on the upper side. Perpendicularly to the plain of their surface stands a very thin membrane, extending nearly the whole length of its longest diameter in a diagonal direction; it is about an inch in height, and forms a segment of a circle. This membrane, which seemed to serve all the purposes of a fin and a sail, was sometimes observed to be erect; at others lying flat, which was generally the case in the morning; but as the day advanced, it became extended. Whether this was voluntary, or the effect of the sun’s influence, was a question not easily to be decided. When the membrane was down, these little animals were collected into compact clusters, were apparently destitute of any motion, and their colour at that time seemed of a dark green.”

The wind gradually veered round to the S. E. and E. S. E. increasing in its force, attended generally with a very smooth sea; though sometimes with a little swell from the westward and S. W. accompanied by cloudy and gloomy weather. On Sunday morning the 15th, I got one set of lunar distances, which at noon gave the longitude 232° 56½′; by the chronometer 232° 7¾′; and by the dead reckoning 229° 39′: the latitude 37° 55′.

The wind at E. S. E. by two the next morning, increased with such violence as to make it necessary that the topsails should be close-reefed; the squalls were very heavy, with an appearance of an approaching storm. No soundings were to be had with 120 fathoms of line; and as I could not depend upon the longitude of the coast of New Albion under this parallel, we stood on a wind until day-light, when we again resumed our course to the N. E. with an increasing gale, attended by thick rainy weather; which, by two in the afternoon, obliged us to strike our top-gallant masts, and stand to the southward under the foresail and storm staysails. At ten that night the wind veered round to the south, blew a moderate gale, and brought with it fair and pleasant weather. Our upper canvas was again spread; and the necessary signals made to the Chatham not being answered, and not seeing her at day-break on Tuesday the 17th, we abandoned our course to the eastward to go in search of her. About five she was seen from the mast-head to the N. W.; upon which we bore down to her, and having joined company, we again directed our route to the eastward. The sky being tolerably clear, although the wind had again put us under double-reefed topsails, enabled me to obtain six sets of lunar distances, whose mean result at noon gave the longitude 50′ to the eastward of the chronometer, the true longitude being 236° 8′, and the dead reckoning 231° 30′; the observed latitude was 39° 20′.

Soon after mid-day we passed considerable quantities of drift wood, grass, sea weed, &c. Many shags, ducks, puffins, and other aquatic birds were flying about; and the colour of the water announced our approach to soundings. These circumstances indicated land not far off, although we were prevented seeing any object more than three or four miles distant, by the weather, which had become very thick and rainy. Being anxious to get sight of the land before night if possible, we stood to the eastward with as much sail as we could carry, and at four in the afternoon reached soundings at the depth of 53 fathoms, soft brown sandy bottom. The land was now discovered bearing by compass from E. N. E. to E. by S. at the distance of about two leagues, on which the surf broke with great violence. We stood in for the shore under our topsails for about an hour, and perceived the coast to extend from N. to S. E. The nearest shore was about two miles distant. The rain and fog with which the atmosphere was now loaded, precluded our seeing much of this part of the coast of New Albion. The shore appeared straight and unbroken, of a moderate height, with mountainous land behind, covered with stately forest trees; excepting in some spots, which had the appearance of having been cleared by manual labour; and exhibited a verdant, agreeable aspect. During the night we plied under an easy sail, in order to be near the land next morning, Wednesday the 18th; when, in consequence of a thick haze, it remained obscured until a light breeze from the eastward about ten o’clock gave us a view of the shore to the north-eastward, for which we immediately steered. The northern extremity of the land bore by compass at noon N. N. W. the nearest shore east about six leagues, the land I considered we were off the preceding night S. 72 E. about eight leagues; and the southernmost land in sight S. 60 E. about ten leagues distant. The observed latitude was at this time 39° 27′; longitude 235° 41′ 30″; by the chronometer 235°. The former was deduced from the mean result of eighty-five sets of lunar distances, taken by the several persons as under, and reduced at noon by the chronometer since the 27th of March, according to its Otaheitean rate, (viz.)

This made the chronometer 41′ 30″ to the west of that which I supposed to be nearest the true longitude; and from the general result of these observations it evidently appeared, that the chronometer had materially altered in its rate since we had reached these northern regions. The longitude of the respective points, head lands, &c. as hereafter stated, will therefore be corrected and affixed, by subsequent observations, agreeably to the explanation contained in the following chapter; whence, by allowing a different rate to the chronometer, the true longitude this day at noon was ascertained to be 236° 25′.

The gentle breeze of wind that now prevailed appearing to be settled in the southern quarter, favored my wish to pursue a northern course; for which purpose we bore away along the coast at the distance of three or four leagues. The weather was delightfully pleasant; and as we drew nearer the land, the shore seemed to be perfectly compact, formed, generally speaking, by cliffs of a moderate height and nearly perpendicular. The inland country, which rises in a pleasing diversity of hills and dales, was completely clothed with forest trees of considerable magnitude; and those spots which, on our first view, had the appearance of having been cleared of their wood by art, were now seen to extend, generally, along the sea side; and their being destitute of wood, was evidently to be ascribed to some natural cause. They were beautifully green, with a luxuriant herbage, interrupted by streaks of red earth. At sun-set, the southernmost land in sight bore by compass, S. 45 E.; a small white rock, not unlike a vessel under sail, close to the shore, east; the nearest shore E. N. E. four leagues; and the northernmost land in sight, which I considered to be cape Mendocino, N. 36 W. about ten leagues distant. In this situation, the variation by the surveying compass was observed to be 16° eastwardly.

The night was spent in making short trips. The next morning, Thursday the 19th, brought with it a return of calm or light baffling winds, a very heavy swell from the S. W. and so thick a haze over the land, that the shores were scarcely perceptible. Immense numbers of whales were playing about us during the morning. Most of them were of that tribe which, in Greenland, are called finners. Towards noon, we had again from the southward a moderate breeze; but the weather still remained extremely gloomy.

In directing our course along the coast to the northward, we observed in latitude 40° 3′ longitude 235° 51′. The mean variation of the surveying compass, by observations made before and after noon, was 15° eastwardly. In this situation, the northernmost land in sight bore, by compass, N. 10 W.; cape Mendocino, N. 2 W.; the easternmost land in sight, S. 60 E.; and the nearest shore N. E. about four leagues distant. In the afternoon we passed cape Mendocino. It is formed by two high promontories, about ten miles apart; the southernmost, which is the highest, and when seen either from the north or the south much resembles Dunnoze, is situated in latitude 40° 19′, longitude 235° 53′. Off the Cape lie some rocky islets and sunken rocks, near a league from the shore. The southernmost of these from the northernmost promontory, lies S. 61 W. about a league distant; and within it are two rocky islets in shape much resembling hay-cocks. The northernmost of them lies N. 3 W. distant five or six miles, nearly of the same shape and size with the other, to which it is apparently connected by a ledge of rocks, whose outermost part lies from the above promontory N. 38 W. about two leagues distant, having a smaller islet, about midway, between them. On some parts of this ledge the sea constantly breaks with great violence; on others, at intervals only. The broken water appeared from the mast-head to extend along the coast, as far north as could be discerned; which, however, was at no great distance, owing to the weather being still thick and hazy. The whole of this Cape, though by no means a very projecting head land, is doubtless very remarkable, from being the highest on the sea shore of this part of New Albion. The mountains at its back are considerably elevated, and form altogether a high steep mass, which does not break into perpendicular cliffs, but is composed of various hills that rise abruptly, and are divided by many deep chasms. In some of these, as well as on some of the ridges of the hills, grew a few dwarf trees. The general surface was covered with vegetables of a dull green colour, interspersed in some places with perpendicular strata of red earth or clay. South of the Cape the coast is nearly straight, forming only a trifling bend, to the southernmost part we had seen. Its elevation is regular, it may be considered as high land, and is apparently deep too, as we sounded without gaining bottom with 120 fathoms of line at distances from two to five leagues from the shore. This had been uniformly the case since the evening we first saw the coast, having no where else gained any soundings, nor seen any drift wood, sea weed, or aquatic birds, nor noticed any difference in the colour of the water. These circumstances induced some of us to suspect, that an opening or river existed to the southward of our then station. To the northward of cape Mendocino, the elevation of the country appeared suddenly to decrease beyond the rocky islets, where it seemed to assume a moderate height. As the day advanced, the weather becoming unpleasant, and adverse to our pursuit, about five o’clock we hauled off the shore. The outermost of the sunken rocks on a line with the middle islet, bore by compass E. by N. at the distance of about a league; the main land, then indistinctly seen, from N. E. by N. to E. S. E. In this situation, we had soundings at the depth of 49 fathoms; dark brown sand. As we stood into the offing, we tried, at the distances of two, three, and four leagues S. W. from the rocks, but gained no bottom at the depth of 80 and 90 fathoms.

The gale had so much increased by midnight from the S. E. as to render close-reefing the topsails necessary; under which we again stood in for the land, in the hope of the wind abating the next morning, Friday the 20th. Instead of which it became more violent, attended with such very heavy squalls of rain and thick weather, that we were obliged to strike the top-gallant yards, and stand to sea under our courses. In the afternoon the head-railing on the starboard side was intirely carried away. This obliged us to reef the foresail, and bring the tack to the cat-head; by which means, the sail stood so indifferently, that the consequences attendant on this accident might have been very alarming, had we had a lee shore instead of a weather shore to contend with.

The gale, accompanied by torrents of rain, continued until midnight; when it veered to the south, moderated, and permitted us to steer again for the land under close-reefed topsails. On Saturday morning the 21st, our top-gallant sails were again set, but the weather was very unpleasant, being thick, with heavy rain; which, towards noon, terminated in a calm and fog. By our reckoning, the south promontory of cape Mendocino bore, by compass, S. 60 E., 11 miles distant. In this situation, no bottom could be reached with 120 fathoms of line.

The fog, with calms, or light variable winds, continued until about ten the next forenoon, Sunday the 22d, when the weather suddenly altered, and brought with it a fine pleasant gale from the south. All sail was now made for the land; at noon the south promontory of cape Mendocino bore, by compass, S. 64 E., distant nine leagues; its north part, N. 88 E. six leagues; the northern most of the rocky islets, N. 71 E., five or six leagues; and the northernmost land in sight, N. E.; the observed latitude 40° 32′; longitude 235° 28′, and the variation of the compass 16° eastwardly.

From cape Mendocino the coast takes a direction N. 13 E.; along which we ranged at the distance of about two leagues. After passing the above islets, the shores became straight and compact, not affording the smallest shelter; and, although rising gradually from the water’s edge to a moderate height only, yet the distant interior country was composed of mountains of great elevation; before which were presented a great variety of hills and dales, agreeably interspersed with woodland, and clear spots, as if in a state of cultivation; but we could discern neither houses, huts, smokes, nor other signs of its being inhabited. The coast we had passed this afternoon, seemed to be generally defended by a sandy beach; but the evening brought us to a country of a very different description, whose shores were composed of rocky precipices, with numberless small rocks and rocky islets extending about a mile into the sea: the most projecting part, which is situated in latitude 41° 8′, longitude 236° 5′, obtained the name of Rocky Point. This, at seven in the evening, bore by compass N. 18 E. six miles distant; the nearest shore east four miles; and the northernmost land in sight N. 6 E. We spent the night in preserving our situation with the land, and the next morning, Monday the 23d, again pursued our course along the coast, which from Rocky Point takes a direction N. 9 W. The wind at south was light, the weather was cloudy, with some little rain. At eight o’clock Rocky Point bore by compass S. 40 E., five or six miles; the nearest shore, N. E. by E. three miles distant; and a detached rocky islet N. 18 W.; within which we afterwards passed in 35 to 50 fathoms water, black sandy bottom. This rock is a high round lump about half a mile in circuit, apparently steep to, and lies from Rocky Point N. 11 W. distant 13 miles, and about half a league from the shore. When abreast of Rocky Point, the colour of the sea suddenly changed from the oceanic hue to a very light river-coloured water, extending as far a-head as could be discerned. This gave us reason to suppose some considerable river or rivers were in the neighbourhood.

A fresh gale from the south permitted our sailing along the coast within a league of the shore, which appeared to be destitute of any opening, and similar to that which we had passed the preceding evening, bounded by innumerable small rocks and rocky islets. The face of the country may be considered as mountainous, and did not appear so pleasing as that lying to the south of Rocky Point. In this respect, however, we were able to say but little, as the land was nearly obscured by the haziness of the weather, excepting immediately on the sea shore; which being composed of steep rocky precipices broken by deep gullies, at a distance would put on the appearance of harbours, or breaks in the land. At noon, we were again in oceanic-coloured water; the observed latitude 41° 36′; longitude 235° 58′; and variation of the compass 16° eastwardly. In this situation, the southernmost land in sight bore by compass S. S. E.; the nearest shore N. E. four miles distant; and the northernmost extremity in sight, (being a cluster of remarkable, rocky hummocks at the termination of a considerable tract of low level land, that at a distance seemed to be an island,) bore N. 15 W. At the junction of the low level land with the high rocky coast, a shallow bay is formed; at the bottom of which was an appearance of a small harbour or opening, which bore N. 5 E. Here I entertained hopes of finding shelter; but the number of breakers along the shore of the low level land, some of which were detached, and lie at a considerable distance from the coast, together with a ledge of rocks and rocky islets seen from the mast-head, extending as far to the westward as N. W., and a sky bearing the same dull and gloomy aspect as that which preceded the former gale, induced me to consider it most prudent to decline the attempt; and to embrace the opportunity of the favorable gale at S. S. W. to continue my examination of the coast, in the confidence of soon finding a more convenient shelter.

We stood off W. N. W. in order to sail round the outwardmost of the rocks, which we passed at the distance of about three or four miles, about four o’clock; and again hauled in for the north side of the low level land. This land forms a very conspicuous point, which I named Point St. George, and the very dangerous cluster of rocks extending from thence, the Dragon Rocks. The outwardmost of these lies from Point St. George, which is situated in latitude 41° 46½′, and longitude 235° 57½′, N. 52 W., three leagues distant. The rocks above water are four in number, with many sunken ones, and numerous breakers stretching from the outermost, (southward of point St. George) towards the opening mentioned at noon. This point forms a bay on each side; that into which we stood from the north side is perfectly open to the N. W., yet apparently sheltered from the W. S. W. and southwardly winds by the Dragon rocks; the soundings we found regularly from 35 to 45 fathoms, black land and muddy bottom: when at the former depth. Point St. George bore by compass S. 33 E. 10 miles; the northernmost of the Dragon rocks S. 7 W. four miles; and the north point of the bay, which I called St. George’s Bay, N. 24 W. six or seven miles distant.

The surf broke with great violence all round the bay; and although we were again in whitish water, there was not any opening on this side of the point: the shores of the northernmost part of the bay, like the coast of the bay on the south side of Point St. George, rise very abruptly from the sea, forming numberless gullies and chasms, which were covered with a dull brownish herbage, and produced little or no wood. North of the bay the shores were again bounded with numberless small rocks and rocky islets, similar to those already mentioned; but the low land of Point St. George terminates in a sandy beach, from whence the coast takes a direction N. 15 W.

Not finding a situation here likely to answer our purpose, we directed our route along the coast until it was dark, when we hauled off shore, and spent the night in the offing. The next morning, Tuesday the 24th, the north point of St. George’s bay bore by compass east two leagues distant. With a favorable breeze at S. E. and less hazy weather, our survey was continued to the northward along the shores, which are composed of high steep precipices and deep chasms, falling very abruptly into the sea. The inland mountains were much elevated, and appeared, by the help of our glasses, to be tolerably well clothed with a variety of trees, the generality of which were of the pine tribe; yet amongst them were observed some spreading trees of considerable magnitude. Although some of these mountains appeared quite barren, they were destitute of snow; but on those at the back of cape Mendocino, which were further to the south, and apparently inferior in point of height, some small patches of snow were noticed. The shores were still bounded by innumerable rocky islets, and in the course of the forenoon we passed a cluster of them, with several sunken rocks in their vicinity, lying a league from the land; which, by falling a little back to the eastward, forms a shallow bay, into which we steered. As the breeze that had been so favorable to our pursuit since the preceding Sunday died away, and as a tide or current set us fast in shore, we were under the necessity of coming to an anchor in 39 fathoms water, black sand and mud. The latitude of this station was found to be 42° 38′, longitude 235° 44′. In this situation, the outermost rock of the cluster before mentioned bore by compass S. 16 E. six miles distant; a remarkable black rock, the nearest shore being N. 64 E. 3½ miles; a very high black cliff resembling the gable end of a house, N. 1 E.; the northernmost extremity of the main land, which is formed by low land projecting from the high rocky coast a considerable way into the sea, and terminating in a wedge-like low perpendicular cliff, N. 27 W. This I distinguished by the name of Cape Orford, in honour of my much respected friend the noble Earl (George) of that title: off it lie several rocky islets, the outwardmost of which bore N. 38 W.

Soon after we had anchored, a canoe was seen paddling towards the ship; and with the greatest confidence, and without any sort of invitation, came immediately alongside. During the afternoon two others visited the Discovery, and some repaired to the Chatham, from different parts of the coast in sight; by which it appeared, that the inhabitants who are settled along the shores of this country, may probably have their residence in the small nooks that are protected from the violence of the westwardly swell by some of the larger rocky islets, so abundantly scattered along the coast.

A pleasing and courteous deportment distinguished these people. Their countenances indicated nothing ferocious; their features partook rather of the general European character; their colour a light olive; and besides being punctuated in the fashion of the South-Sea islanders, their skin had many other marks, apparently from injuries in their excursions through the forests, possibly, with little or no clothing that could protect them; though some of us were of opinion these marks were purely ornamental, as is the fashion with the inhabitants of Van Dieman’s land.^[1] Their stature was under the middle size; none that we saw exceeding five feet six inches in height. They were tolerably well limbed, though slender in their persons; bore little or no resemblance to the people of Nootka; nor did they seem to have the least knowledge of that language. They seemed to prefer the comforts of cleanliness to the painting of their bodies; in their ears and noses they had small ornaments of bone, their hair, which was long and black, was clean and neatly combed, and generally tied in a club behind; though some amongst them had their hair in a club in front also. They were dressed in garments that nearly covered them, made principally of the skins of deer, bear, fox, and river otter; one or two cub skins of the sea otter were also observed amongst them. Their canoes, calculated to carry about eight people, were rudely wrought out of a single tree; their shape much resembled that of a butcher’s tray, and seemed very unfit for a sea voyage or any distant expedition. They brought but a few trifling articles to barter, and they anxiously solicited in exchange iron and beads. In this traffic they were scrupulously honest, particularly in fixing their bargain with the first bidder; for, if a second offered a more valuable commodity for what they had to sell, they would not consent, but made signs (which could not be mistaken,) that the first should pay the price offered by the second, on which the bargain would be closed. They did not entertain the least idea of accepting presents; for on my giving them some beads, medals, iron, &c. they instantly offered their garments in return, and seemed much astonished, and I believe not less pleased, that I chose to decline them. The first man, in particular, gave me some trouble to persuade him that he was to retain both the trinkets and his garment.

We remained in this situation until near midnight, when a light breeze springing up from the S. S. E. attended with some rain and dark gloomy weather, we weighed and stood to and fro until day-light, Wednesday the 25th; when we directed our course round the group of rocks lying off cape Orford, comprehending four detached rocky islets, with several dangerous sunken rocks about them, on which the sea broke with great violence; the outermost of these lies from the Cape S. 38 W., distant about four miles; we passed close to the breakers in soundings of 45 fathoms, black sandy bottom. Cape Orford, which is situated in latitude 42° 52′, longitude 235° 35′, at the extremity of a low projecting tract of land, forms a very conspicuous point, and bears the same appearance whether approached from the north or the south. It is covered with wood as low down as the surf will permit it to grow. The space between the woods and the wash of the sea, seemed composed of black craggy rocks, and may from the mast-head be seen at the distance of seven or eight leagues; but I should suppose not much further. Some of us were of opinion that this was the cape Blanco of Martin D’Aguilar; its latitude, however, differed greatly from that in which cape Blanco is placed by that navigator; and its dark appearance, which might possibly be occasioned by the haziness of weather, did not seem to intitle it to the appellation of cape Blanco. North of this cape, the coast takes a direction about N. 13 E.; and south of it towards Point St. George, S. 18 E.

The rocky islets which we had seen in such numbers along the shore, ceased to exist about a league to the north of cape Orford; and in their stead, an almost straight sandy beach presented itself, with land behind gradually rising to a moderate height near the coast; but the interior was considerably elevated, and much diversified both by its eminences and productions, being generally well wooded, though frequently interrupted with intervals of clear spots, which gave it some resemblance to a country in an advanced state of cultivation.

The weather having become more clear and pleasant at noon, cape Orford was visible a-stern nearly in the horizon, bearing by compass S. 11 E. five leagues distant; the nearest shore about a league distant east; a small projecting point, forming the north point of a small cove off which lie five detached rocks, N. 23 E., distance seven miles; and the northernmost land in sight, which I considered to be cape Blanco, N. 2 E.; the observed latitude was 43° 6′; longitude 235° 42′; and the variation 16° eastwardly.

Having now a fine gale from the S. S. W. with serene and pleasant weather, we ranged along the coast at the distance of about a league, in hopes of determining the existence or non-existence of the extensive river or straits, asserted to have been discovered by Martin D’Aguilar. About three in the afternoon we passed within a league of the cape above mentioned; and at about half that distance from some breakers that lie to the westward of it. This cape, though not so projecting a point as cape Orford, is nevertheless a conspicuous one, particularly when seen from the north, being formed by a round hill on high perpendicular cliffs, some of which are white, a considerable height from the level of the sea. Above these cliffs it is tolerably well wooded, and is connected to the main land, by land considerably lower. In this respect it seemed exactly to answer Captain Cook’s description of cape Gregory; though its situation did not appear to correspond with that assigned to cape Gregory by that navigator; our observations placing it in latitude 43° 23′; longitude 235° 50′; whence the coast tends N. 21 E. About a league north of the pitch of the cape, the rocky cliffs composing it terminate, and a compact white sandy beach commences, which extends along the coast eight leagues, without forming any visible projecting point or head land. We sailed along this beach at a distance of from three to five miles, and had there been any projecting point or inlet in it, neither could have escaped our observation. This induced me to consider the above point as the cape Gregory of Captain Cook, with a probability of its being also the cape Blanco of D’Aguilar, if the latter ever saw land hereabouts. The difference in latitude between our computation and that of Captain Cook was 7′; our observations placing the cape that distance farther south. This might possibly have been occasioned by the tempestuous weather with which the Resolution and Discovery contended when off this coast, preventing the position of the several head lands being then ascertained with that accuracy which the fair winds and pleasant weather have enabled us to assign to them. The land seen to the south of cape Gregory by Captain Cook, and by him considered as answering nearly to the situation of cape Blanco, must have been some of the inland mountains, which to the south of cape Gregory rise to a great height; whilst the land near the sea shore, particularly in the neighbourhood of cape Orford, was much too low to have been seen at the distance which Captain Cook was at that time from it; and it is fair to presume, that the excessive bad weather led Captain Cook and his officers to consider the extremely white sand on the sea shore and on the hills to be snow. With us it put on the same appearance, excepting where it was interrupted by the clumps of trees, and until it was intirely lost in the forest. There could be no doubt of its being mistaken in winter for snow; but as the general temperature of the thermometer since our arrival on the coast had been at 59 and 60, the error of such conclusion was sufficiently manifested.

The night was spent as before; and in the morning of Thursday the 26th, we sailed along the coast, which extended from S. E. by S. to N. ½ E.; the land we hauled off from the preceding evening, S. 40 E. four or five leagues; and the nearest shore east, six or seven miles distant. A considerable increase in the wind from the S. W. with appearances of a threatening nature, made me consider it not prudent to venture nearer than within two or three leagues of the shore; which being greatly obscured by the haziness of the atmosphere, prevented our seeing much of the inland country. We lost sight again of the sandy beaches and low shores, and in lieu of them we were presented with a straight and compact coast, composed of steep craggy rocky cliffs, nearly perpendicular to the sea, with a retired mountainous country much broken, and forming a great variety of deep chasms; the whole but thinly covered with wood. At eight we passed the only projecting point from cape Gregory. It is a high rocky bluff, nearly perpendicular to the sea; against it the billows, that now ran very high, broke with immense violence. This promontory I considered to be that which Captain Cook calls cape Perpetua; our observations placing it in latitude 44° 12′, longitude 236° 5′. From hence the coast takes a north direction, which we ranged along at the distance of about three leagues from the shore, until towards noon; when having nearly reached the northern extent of the coast hereabout seen by Captain Cook, and the gale still increasing, we close-reefed the topsails and hauled off shore, until the weather should prove more favorable to the examination of an unknown coast. Cape Foulweather at this time bore by compass N. 42 E. three or four leagues distant, and the coast indistinctly seen, from N. by E. to S. E. by S. The observed latitude 44° 42′, longitude 235° 53′, and the variation 18° eastwardly.

The gale having a little abated, veered to the south; and the haze clearing away from the land, we again pursued our route, and in the afternoon passed cape Foulweather, which is a conspicuous promontory, almost as singular in its appearance as any we had seen along the coast. A high round bluff point projects abruptly into the sea; a remarkable table hill is situated to the north, and a lower round bluff to the south of it. Our observations placed this cape in latitude 44° 49′, longitude 236° 4′.

From cape Foulweather the coast takes a direction a little to the eastward of north, and is nearly a straight and compact shore, considerably elevated, and in general steep to the sea. The face of the country is much chequered, in some places covered with a pleasing verdure, in others occupied by barren rocks and sand; but in none very thickly wooded.

Sun-set brought us in sight of that part of the coast which had been seen by Mr. Meares; its northern extremity in sight bore by compass N. ½ W.; cape Look-out N. 10 E.; the nearest shore N. 34 E. about a league distant. This, being a remarkably steep bluff cliff flattered us for some time with an appearance like the entrance of an harbour; but on a nearer approach the deception was found to have been occasioned by the low land to the north of the bluff forming a very shallow open bay; the southernmost land in sight bore S. S. E.; in this situation we had 50 fathoms of water, black sandy bottom.

The night, which was tolerably fair, was spent as usual in preserving our station until day-light, Friday the 27th, when we pursued our examination along the coast with a favorable breeze, attended with some passing showers. Cape Look-out then bore by compass east, about two leagues distant. This Cape forms only a small projecting point, yet it is remarkable for the four rocks which lie off from it: one of which is perforated, as described by Mr. Meares; and excepting a rock passed the preceding afternoon, these were the first we had seen north of cape Gregory.

From cape Look-out, which is situated in latitude 45° 32′, longitude 236° 11′, the coast takes a direction about N. 8. W. and is pleasingly diversified with eminences and small hills near the sea shore, in which are some shallow sandy bays, with a few detached rocks lying about a mile from the land. The more inland country is considerably elevated; the mountains stretch towards the sea, and at a distance appeared to form many inlets and projecting points; but the sandy beach that continued along the coast renders it a compact shore, now and then interrupted by perpendicular rocky cliffs, on which the surf breaks violently. This mountainous inland country extends about 10 leagues to the north from cape Look-out, where it descends suddenly to a moderate height; and had it been destitute of its timber, which seemed of considerable magnitude and to compose an intire forest, it might be deemed low land. Noon brought us up with a very conspicuous point of land composed of a cluster of hummocks, moderately high, and projecting into the sea from the low land before mentioned. These hummocks are barren, and steep near the sea, but their tops are thinly covered with wood. On the south side of this promontory was the appearance of an inlet, or small river, the land behind not indicating it to be of any great extent; nor did it seem accessible for vessels of our burthen, as the breakers extended from the above point two or three miles into the ocean, until they joined those on the beach nearly four leagues further south. On reference to Mr. Meares’s description of the coast south of this promontory, I was at first induced to believe it to be cape Shoalwater, but on ascertaining its latitude, I presumed it to be that which he calls cape Disappointment; and the opening to the south of it, Deception bay. This cape was found to be in latitude 46° 19′, longitude 236° 6′.

The sea had now changed from its natural, to river-coloured water; the probable consequence of some streams falling into the bay, or into the ocean to the north of it, through the low land. Not considering this opening worthy of more attention, I continued our pursuit to the N. W. being desirous to embrace the advantages of the prevailing breeze and pleasant weather, so favorable to our examination of the coast, which now took a direction N. 12 W.; the latitude at this time was 46° 14′; longitude 236° 1½′; and the variation of the compass 18° eastwardly. In this situation we had soundings at the depth of 33 fathoms, black sandy bottom; the northernmost land seen from the deck bore by compass north; the promontory of cape Disappointment, from N. 14 E. to N. 32 E.; this, the nearest shore, was about two leagues distant; and the southernmost land in sight bore S. E. by S.

The country before us presented a most luxuriant landscape, and was probably not a little heightened in beauty by the weather that prevailed. The more interior parts were somewhat elevated, and agreeably diversified with hills, from which it gradually descended to the shore, and terminated in a sandy beach. The whole had the appearance of a continued forest extending as far north as the eye could reach, which made me very solicitous to find a port in the vicinity of a country presenting so delightful a prospect of fertility; our attention was therefore earnestly directed to this object, but the sandy beach bounded by breakers extending three or four miles into the sea, seemed to be completely inaccessible until about four in the afternoon, when the appearance of a tolerably good bay presented itself. For this we steered, in the hope of finding a division in the reef, through which, should admittance be gained, there was great reason to expect a well sheltered anchorage; but on approaching within two or three miles of the breakers, we found them produced by a compact reef, extending from a low projecting point of land along the shores to the southward, until they joined the beach to the north of cape Disappointment. This projecting point is somewhat more elevated than the rest of the coast, and is situated in latitude 46° 40′; longitude 236°. Not a little disappointed, we resumed our route along the shores of this pleasant country. The projecting point, at six, bore compass N. 10 E.; the centre of the bay, and the nearest part of the reef in a line N. 69 E.; distant from the former about seven, and from the latter, about three miles. Immediately within the point, the interior country is more elevated than to the north or south of it; rising in gradual ascent to land of a moderate height. In respect of latitude, this point answered nearly to Mr. Meares’s cape Shoalwater; but, from his description of the adjacent country, it should rather appear to be his Low Point; and the bay we endeavoured to enter to the south of it, Shoalwater bay; as in it there appeared two openings, the one taking a northerly, and the other an eastwardly direction. Mr. Meares likewise states, “that, with their glasses, they traced the line of the coast to the south of cape Shoalwater, which presented no opening that promised like an harbour;” those to the south of both these points flattered our expectations, until the breakers, extending across each of them, gave us reason to consider them inaccessible, and unworthy any loss of time whilst accompanied by so favorable a breeze. At sun-set we again shortened sail, and as usual hauled our wind to preserve our station until morning. Our soundings were from 24 to 43 fathoms, dark brown sandy bottom. It was calm for a few hours during the evening and night, attended with a heavy fall of rain.

The next morning, Saturday 28th, at 4 o’clock, with a light breeze at E. S. E. we again steered in for the land, and found that we had been materially affected by a northern current. The land we had been abreast of the preceding evening, now bore by compass S. E. six or seven leagues distant; and the coast to the north of it still continuing to appear a straight and compact shore, I did not attempt gaining a nearer view, but passed on to the northward, keeping at about a league from the land which now took an almost north direction, to a point that, after the Right Honourable Lord Grenville, I named Point Grenville, situated in latitude 47° 22′, longitude 235° 58½′; whence the coast tends N. N. W. Lying off point Grenville are three small rocky islets, one of which, like that at cape Look-out, is perforated.

From hence, as we proceeded to the north, the coast began to increase regularly in height, and the inland country, behind the low land bordering on the sea shore, acquired a considerable degree of elevation. The shores we passed this morning, differed in some respects from those we had hitherto seen. They were composed of low cliffs rising perpendicularly from a beach of sand or small stones; had many detached rocks of various romantic forms, lying at the distance of about a mile, with regular soundings, between 16 and 19 fathoms, soft sandy bottom. Noon brought us in sight of land, which was considered to be that named by Mr. Barclay, Destruction island; bearing by compass from N. 14 W. to N. 17 W.; the southernmost land in sight, S. 53 E.; the northernmost N. 36 W.; and the nearest shore N. 65 E. at the distance of about four miles; in this situation our observed latitude was 47° 30′, longitude 235° 49′, and the variation of the compass 18° eastwardly.

In the afternoon the wind we had been so happily favored with died away, and was succeeded by calms and light variable breezes. These, with a current or tide setting rapidly in shore, obliged us to anchor in 21 fathoms, on a bottom of soft sand and mud: the coast, which now formed a straight and compact shore, bore by compass from N. 30 W. to S. 49 E.; the nearest part of the main land, east, about five miles; Destruction island being the nearest land N. 5 E. to N. 5 W. about a league distant, some breakers extending from its north point N. 8 W.

This island is situated in latitude 47° 37′; longitude 235° 49′; and is, by far, the largest detached land yet observed on the coast. It is about a league in circuit, low, and nearly flat on the top, presenting a very barren aspect, and producing only one or two dwarf trees at each end. A canoe or two were seen paddling near the island. It was a fact not less singular than worthy observation, that, on the whole extensive coast of New Albion, and more particularly in the vicinity of those fertile and delightful shores we had lately passed, we had not, excepting to the southward of cape Orford and at this place, seen any inhabitants, or met with any circumstances, that in the most distant manner indicated a probability of the country being inhabited.

Notwithstanding the serenity and pleasantness of the weather, our voyage was rendered excessively irksome by the want of wind; our progress was slow, and our curiosity was much excited to explore the promised expansive mediterranean ocean, which, by various accounts, is said to have existence in these regions. The several large rivers and capacious inlets that have been described as discharging their contents into the pacific, between the 40th and 48th degree of north latitude, were reduced to brooks insufficient for our vessels to navigate, or to bays, inapplicable as harbours, for refitting; excepting that one of which Mr. Dalrymple informs us, that “it is alledged that the Spaniards have recently found an entrance in the latitude of 47° 45′ north, which in 27 days course brought them to the vicinity of Hudson’s bay; this latitude exactly corresponds to the ancient relation of John De Fuca, the Greek pilot, in 1592.”^[2] This inlet could be now only ten miles from us; and another that had been visited by Mr. Meares and other traders on the coast, was not more than 20 leagues distant. We had been extremely fortunate in the favorable winds that had attended us along this coast, and their absence at this juncture made us impatient for their return. Our anxiety was, however, of no long duration; as by three o’clock on Sunday morning the 29th, we were indulged with a pleasant breeze, with which at day-light we weighed and stood along the shore to the N. W. Whilst at anchor we found a constant current, without intermission, setting in the line of the coast to the northward, at an uniform rate of near half a league per hour. Since we had passed cape Orford, we had been regularly thus affected, and carried further to the north by ten or twelve miles per day than we expected.

At four o’clock, a sail was discovered to the westward standing in shore. This was a very great novelty, not having seen any vessel but our consort, during the last eight months. She soon hoisted American colours, and fired a gun to leeward. At six we spoke her. She proved to be the ship Columbia, commanded by Mr. Robert Gray, belonging to Boston, whence she had been absent nineteen months. Having little doubt of his being the same person who had formerly commanded the sloop Washington, I desired he would bring to, and sent Mr. Puget and Mr. Menzies on board to acquire such information as might be serviceable in our future operations.

The most remarkable mountain we had seen on the coast of New Albion, now presented itself. Its summit, covered with eternal snow, was divided into a very elegant double fork, and rose conspicuously from a base of lofty mountains clothed in the same manner, which descended gradually to hills of a moderate height, and terminated like that we had seen the preceding day, in low cliffs falling perpendicularly on a sandy beach; off which were scattered many rocks and rocky islets of various forms and sizes. This was generally considered, though it was not confirmed by its latitude, to be the mount Olympus of Mr. Meares; it being the only conspicuous mountain we had observed on the part of the coast he had visited. Mount Olympus is placed in latitude 47° 10′; whereas our latitude now was 47° 38′: and as this mountain bore N. 55 E. it must consequently be to the north of us; although we were unable to determine its precise situation, by the thick hazy weather which shortly succeeded.

On the return of the boat, we found our conjectures had not been ill grounded, that this was the same gentleman who had commanded the sloop Washington at the time, we are informed, she had made a very singular voyage behind Nootka. It was not a little remarkable that, on our approach to the entrance of this inland sea, we should fall in with the identical person who, it had been stated, had sailed through it. His relation, however, differed very materially from that published in England. It is not possible to conceive any one to be more astonished than was Mr. Gray, on his being made acquainted, that his authority had been quoted, and the track pointed out that he had been said to have made in the sloop Washington. In contradiction to which, he assured the officers, that he had penetrated only 50 miles into the straits in question, in an E. S. E. direction; that he found the passage five leagues wide; and that he understood from the natives, that the opening extended a considerable distance to the northward; that this was all the information he had acquired respecting this inland sea, and that he returned into the ocean by the same way he had entered. The inlet he supposed to be the same that De Fuca had discovered, which opinion seemed to be universally received by all the modern visitors. He likewise informed them of his having been off the mouth of a river in the latitude of 46° 10′ where the outset, or reflux, was so strong as to prevent his entering for nine days. This was, probably, the opening passed by us on the forenoon of the 27th; and was, apparently, inaccessible, not from the current, but from the breakers that extended across it. He had also entered another inlet to the northward, in latitude 54½°; in which he had sailed to the latitude of 56°, without discovering its termination. The south point of entrance into De Fuca’s straits he stated to be in 48° 24′ and conceived our distance from it to be about eight leagues. The last winter he had spent in port Cox, or, as the natives call it, Clayoquot, from whence he had sailed but a few days. During the winter he had built a small vessel, in which he had dispatched a mate and ten men to barter for furs on Queen Charlotte’s islands, and was himself now commencing his summer’s trade along the coast to the southward. Whilst he remained at Clayoquot, Wicananish, the chief of that district, had concerted a plan to capture his ship, by bribing a native of Owhyhee, whom Mr. Gray had with him, to wet the priming of all the fire-arms on board, which were constantly kept loaded; upon which the chief would easily have overpowered the ship’s crew, by a number of daring Indians who were assembled for that purpose. This project was happily discovered, and the Americans being on their guard the fatal effects of the enterprise were prevented.

Having obtained this information, our course was again directed along the coast to the northward. It continued to increase in height as we advanced, with numberless detached rocky islets, amongst which were many sunken rocks, extending in some places a league from the shore. As we passed the outermost of these rocks at the distance of a mile, we plainly distinguished the south point of entrance into De Fuca’s straits, bearing by compass N. 8 W.: the opposite side of the straits, though indistinctly seen in consequence of the haze, plainly indicated an opening of considerable extent. The thick rainy weather permitted us to see little of the country, yet we were enabled to ascertain that this coast, like that which we had hitherto explored from cape Mendocino, was firm and compact, without any opening into the mediterranean sea, as stated in latitude 47° 45′; or the least appearance of a safe or secure harbour, either in that latitude, or, from it southward to cape Mendocino; notwithstanding that, in that space, geographers have thought it expedient to furnish many. Those, however, who from such ideal reports may be induced to navigate, in the confidence of meeting such resorts for shelter or refreshment, will, it is greatly to be apprehended, be led into considerable error, and experience like myself no small degree of mortification.

We now saw several villages scattered along the shore, whose inhabitants came off for the purpose, as we supposed, of trading; as the Columbia brought to for a short time, and again made all the sail she could after us; which led us to conjecture, that Mr. Gray had not been perfectly satisfied with the account given by our officers, and suspected that our object was of a commercial nature like his own, as he had informed our gentlemen that he was immediately going a considerable way to the southward. We were, at this time, within two or three miles of the shore; the wind blew a fresh gale, attended with thick rainy weather from the E. S. E. But as it was favorable for entering this inlet, we were eager to embrace the opportunity it afforded, and shortened sail that the Chatham might take the lead. About noon, we reached its south entrance, which I understand the natives distinguish by the name of Classet^[3]; it is a projecting and conspicuous promontory; and bore, by compass, from N. 56 E. to N. 39 E. distant from its nearest part about two miles. Tatooche’s island, united to the promontory by a ledge of rocks over which the sea violently breaks, bore from N. 17 E. to N. 30 E.; and the rock lying off the island, as described by Mr. Duncan in his excellent sketch of the entrance into this inlet, N. 14 E. In the latitude, however, there appears to be an error of ten miles; which, from Mr. Duncan’s accuracy in other respects, I was induced to attribute to the press. The south entrance is by him stated to be in 48° 37′; whereas, by our run, and making every allowance, we could not place it so far north as Mr. Gray. No great violence of tide was experienced; nor did we observe the Pinnacle rock, as represented by Mr. Meares and Mr. Dalrymple, in order to identify these as De Fuca’s straits, or any other rock more conspicuous than thousands along the coast, varying in form and size; some conical, others with flat sides, flat tops, and almost every other shape that can be figured by the imagination.

We followed the Chatham between Tatooche’s island and the rock, hauling to the eastward along the southern shore of the supposed straits of De Fuca. This rock, which rises just above the surface of the water, and over which the surf breaks with great violence, I called Rock Duncan, in commemoration of that gentleman’s discovery. It is situated, as he represents, about N. 20 E. nearly half a league from Tatooche’s island; forming a passage, to all appearance, perfectly clear. The island of Tatooche is of an oblong shape, lying nearly in a N. W. and S. E. direction, about half a league in circuit, bearing a verdant and fertile appearance, without any trees. On the east side is a cove which nearly divides the island into two parts; the upper part of the cliff in the centre of the cove, had the appearance of having been separated by art for the protection or conveniency of the village there situated; and has a communication from cliff to cliff above the houses of the village by a bridge or causeway, over which the inhabitants were seen passing and repairing. On the beach were seen several canoes, and some of them would most probably have visited us, had we thought proper to shorten sail. This promontory, though not greatly elevated, rises very abruptly from the sea in steep barren cliffs; above these it seems well wooded; but the badness of the weather that obscured the adjacent country, prevented also our ascertaining its situation. From the north-west part of Tatooche’s island, which bears from the north point of the promontory of Classet N. 79 W. distant about two miles, the exterior coast takes a direction nearly south about ten leagues; where, as we passed, I anxiously looked out for the point which Captain Cook had distinguished by the name of Cape Flattery, of which I could not be completely satisfied, on account of the difference in latitude. A shallow bay, however, does extend about three leagues to the southward of Classet, which falls some distance back from the general line of the coast; and the base of the inland mountains which project there, and form deep ravines, present at a distance the appearance of a safe and secure port; but, on a nearer approach, the whole was found firmly connected by a sandy beach. This, most probably, is the bay which the Resolution and Discovery stood into; and Classet is the point, with an island lying off it, which Captain Cook called cape Flattery. The difference in latitude, (if Mr. Gray is correct, who has passed it several times, and always made it nearly the same,) may have been occasioned by a current similar to that which we had lately experienced along the coast; affecting the Resolution in the same manner, between noon, when their latitude was observed, and late in the evening, when Captain Cook hauled off the coast.

As we proceeded along the shore, we passed the village of Classet, which is situated about two miles within the Cape, and has the appearance of being extensive and populous. As the fresh southwardly wind became much moderated by the intervention of the high land we were now under, some of the inhabitants found no difficulty in visiting us; this they did in a very civil, orderly, and friendly manner, requesting permission before they attempted to enter the ship; and on receiving some presents, with assurances of our friendship, they very politely and earnestly solicited us to stop at their village. The situation of the anchorage however being much exposed, and wishing for some snug port where, with ease and convenience, the various necessary services we now required might be performed, I declined their very cordial invitation, and directed our course up the inlet, entertaining no doubt that we should soon be enabled to accommodate ourselves with a more advantageous station.

The few natives who came off resembled, in most respects, the people of Nootka. Their persons, garments, and behaviour, are very similar; some difference was observed in their ornaments, particularly in those worn at the nose; for instead of the crescent, generally adopted by the inhabitants of Nootka, these wore straight pieces of bone. Their canoes, arms, and implements, were exactly the same. They spoke the same language, but did not approach us with the formality observed by those people on visiting the Resolution and Discovery; which may probably be owing to their having become more familiar with strangers. The wind veering to the S. E. obliged us to turn up along shore on the southern side of the straits, which, from cape Classet, takes a direction S. 70 E. About two miles within the village we passed a small open bay, with a little island lying off its eastern side, apparently too insignificant to answer our purpose of refitting. The weather becoming more unpleasant as the day advanced, at seven in the evening we came to anchor in 23 fathoms water, on a bottom of black sand and mud, about a mile from the shore.

I now became acquainted that after we had passed within Tatooche’s island a rock was noticed, and supposed to be that represented as De Fuca’s pinnacle rock; this however was visible only for a few minutes, from its being close to the shore of the main land, instead of lying in the entrance of the straits; nor did it correspond with that which has been so described.

It was somewhat remarkable, that although we rode all night by the wind, the Chatham, though anchored not a quarter of a mile in shore of us, rode to a regular six hours tide, running near half a league per hour; and, by the appearance of the shores, the ebb and flow seemed to have been very considerable.

The evening of the 29th brought us to an anchor in very thick rainy weather, about eight miles within the entrance on the southern shore of the supposed straits of De Fuca. The following morning, Monday the 30th, a gentle breeze sprang up from the N. W. attended with clear and pleasant weather, which presented to our view this renowned inlet. Its southern shores were seen to extend, by compass, from N. 83 W. to E.; the former being the small island we had passed the preceding afternoon, which, lying about half a mile from the main land, was about four miles distant from us: its northern shore extends from N. 68 W. to N. 73 E.; the nearest point of it, distant about three leagues, bore N. 15 W. We weighed anchor with a favorable wind, and steered to the east along the southern shore, at the distance of about two miles, having an uninterrupted horizon between east and N. 73 E. The shores on each side the straits are of a moderate height; and the delightful serenity of the weather permitted our seeing this inlet to great advantage. The shores on the south side are composed of low sandy cliffs, falling perpendicularly on beaches of sand or stones. From the top of these eminences, the land appeared to take a further gentle moderate ascent, and was intirely covered with trees chiefly of the pine tribe, until the forest reached a range of high craggy mountains, which seemed to rise from the woodland country in a very abrupt manner, with a few scattered trees on their steril sides, and their summits covered with snow. The northern shore did not appear quite so high: it rose more gradually from the sea side to the tops of the mountains, which had the appearance of a compact range, infinitely more uniform, and much less covered with snow than those on the southern side.

Our latitude at noon was 48° 19′; longitude 236° 19′; and the variation of the compass 18° eastwardly. In this situation, the northern shore extended by compass from N. 82 W. to N. 51 E.; between the latter, and the eastern extremity of the southern shore, bearing N. 88 E., we had still an unbounded horizon; whilst the island before mentioned, continuing to form the west extremity of the southern shore, bore S. 84 W. By these observations, which I have great reason to believe were correctly taken, the north promontory of Classet is situated in latitude 48° 23½′; longitude 235° 38′. The smoothness of the sea, and clearness of the sky, enabled us to take several sets of lunar distances, which gave the longitude to the eastward of the chronometer, and served to confirm our former observations, that it was gaining very materially on the rate as settled at Otaheite. As the day advanced, the wind, which as well as the weather was delightfully pleasant, accelerated our progress along the shore. This seemed to indicate a speedy termination to the inlet; as high land now began to appear just rising from that horizon, which, a few hours before, we had considered to be unlimited. Every new appearance, as we proceeded, furnished new conjectures; the whole was not visibly connected; it might form a cluster of islands separated by large arms of the sea, or be united by land not sufficiently high to be yet discernible. About five in the afternoon, a long, low, sandy point of land was observed projecting from the craggy shores into the sea, behind which was seen the appearance of a well-sheltered bay, and, a little to the S. E. of it, an opening in the land, promising a safe and extensive port. About this time a very high conspicuous craggy mountain, bearing by compass N. 50 E. presented itself, towering above the clouds: as low down as they allowed it to be visible, it was covered with snow; and south of it, was a long ridge of very rugged snowy mountains, much less elevated, which seemed to stretch to a considerable distance.

As my intention was to anchor for the night under the low point, the necessary signals were made to the Chatham; and at seven we hauled round it, at the distance of about a mile. This was, however, too near, as we soon found ourselves in three fathoms water; but, on steering about half a mile to the north, the depth increased to ten fathoms, and we rounded the shallow spit, which, though not very conspicuous, is shewn by the tide causing a considerable ripling over it. Having turned up a little way into the bay, we anchored on a bottom of soft sand and mud in 14 fathoms water. The low sandy point of land, which from its great resemblance to Dungeness in the British channel, I called New Dungeness, bore by compass N. 41 W. about three miles distant, from whence the low projecting land extends until it reaches a bluff cliff of a moderate height, bearing from us S. 60 W. about a league distant. From this station the shores bore the same appearance as those we had passed in the morning, composing one intire forest. The snowy mountains of the inland country were, however, neither so high nor so rugged, and were further removed from the sea shore. The nearest parts bore by compass from us, south about half a league off; the apparent port S. 50 E. about two leagues; and the south point of an inlet, seemingly very capacious, S. 85 E.; with land appearing like an island, moderately elevated, lying before its entrance, from S. 85 E. to N. 87 E.; and the S. E. extremity of that which now appeared to be the southern shore, N. 71 E. From this direction round by the N. and N. W. the high distant land formed, as already observed, like detached islands, amongst which the lofty mountain, discovered in the afternoon by the third lieutenant, and in compliment to him called by me Mount Baker, rose a very conspicuous object, bearing by compass N. 43 E. apparently at a very remote distance. A small Indian village was near us on the south side of the bay, but we had not yet been visited by any of the inhabitants. We had now advanced further up this inlet than Mr. Gray, or (to our knowledge) any other person from the civilized world; although it should hereafter be proved to be the same which is said to have been entered by De Fuca, in support of which oral testimony is the only authority produced; a tradition rendered still more doubtful by its entrance differing at least 40′ in latitude.

Considering ourselves now on the point of commencing an examination of an intirely new region, I cannot take leave of the coast already known, without obtruding a short remark on that part of the continent, comprehending a space of nearly 215 leagues, on which our inquiries had been lately employed under the most fortunate and favorable circumstances of wind and weather. So minutely had this extensive coast been inspected, that the surf had been constantly seen to break on its shores from the mast-head; and it was but in a few small intervals only, where our distance precluded its being visible from the deck. Whenever the weather prevented our making free with the shore, or on our hauling off for the night, the return of fine weather and of day-light uniformly brought us, if not to the identical spot we had departed from, at least within a few miles of it, and never beyond the northern limits of the coast which we had previously seen. An examination so directed, and circumstances happily concurring to permit its being so executed, afforded the most complete opportunity of determining its various turnings and windings; as also the position of all its conspicuous points, ascertained by meridional altitudes for the latitude, and observations for the chronometer, which we had the good fortune to make constantly once, and in general twice every day, the preceding one only excepted.

It must be considered as a very singular circumstance that, in so great an extent of sea coast, we should not until now have seen the appearance of any opening in its shores, which presented any certain prospect of affording shelter; the whole coast forming one compact, solid, and nearly straight barrier against the sea.

The river Mr. Gray mentioned should, from the latitude he assigned to it, have existence in the bay, south of cape Disappointment. This we passed on the forenoon of the 27th; and, as I then observed, if any inlet or river should be found, it must be a very intricate one, and inaccessible to vessels of our burthen, owing to the reefs and broken water which then appeared in its neighbourhood. Mr. Gray stated that he had been several days attempting to enter it, which at length he was unable to effect, in consequence of a very strong outset. This is a phenomenon difficult to account for, as, in most cases where there are outlets of such strength on a sea coast, there are corresponding tides setting in. Be that however as it may, I was thoroughly convinced, as were also most persons of observation on board, that we could not possibly have passed any safe navigable opening, harbour, or place of security for shipping on this coast, from cape Mendocino to the promontory of Classet; nor had we any reason to alter our opinions, notwithstanding that theoretical geographers have thought proper to assert, in that space, the existence of arms of the ocean, communicating with a mediterranean sea, and extensive rivers, with safe and convenient ports. These ideas, not derived from any source of substantial information, have, it is much to be feared, been adopted for the sole purpose of giving unlimited credit to the traditionary exploits of ancient foreigners, and to undervalue the laborious and enterprising exertions of our own countrymen, in the noble science of discovery.

Since the vision of the southern continent, (from which the Incas of Peru are said to have originated,) has vanished; the pretended discoveries of De Fuca and De Fonte have been revived, in order to prove the existence of a north-west passage. These have been supported by the recent concurring opinions of modern traders, one of whom is said to conceive, that an opening still further to the north is that which De Fuca entered. Under this assertion, should any opening further to the northward be discovered leading to a N. W. passage, the merit of such discovery will necessarily be ascribed to De Fuca, De Fonte, or some other favorite voyager of these closet philosophers.

The preceding evening brought us to an anchor May 1792 under New Dungeness. Our May-day, Tuesday, was ushered in by a morning of the most delightfully pleasant weather, affording us, from the broken appearance of the coast before us, the prospect of soon reaching a safe and commodious harbour. Indeed, our present situation was far from ineligible, as it promised to admit us as near the shore as we might think proper to take our station. Mr. Whidbey was therefore dispatched in the cutter, to sound, and search for fresh water.

The appearance of the huts we now saw, indicated the residence of the natives in them to be of a temporary nature only; as we could perceive with our glasses, that they differed very materially from the habitations of any of the American Indians we had before seen, being composed of nothing more than a few mats thrown over cross slicks; whereas those we had passed the preceding day, in two or three small villages to the eastward of Classet, were built exactly after the fashion of the houses erected at Nootka.^[4] The inhabitants seemed to view us with the utmost indifference and unconcern; they continued to fish before their huts as regardless of our being present, as if such vessels had been familiar to them, and unworthy of their attention. On the low land of New Dungeness were erected perpendicularly, and seemingly with much regularity, a number of very tall straight poles, like flag-staves or beacons, supported from the ground by spurs. Their first appearance induced an opinion of their being intended as the uprights for stages on which they might dry their fish; but this, on a nearer view seemed improbable, as their height and distance from each other would have required spars of a greater size to reach from one to the other, than the substance of the poles was capable of sustaining. They were, undoubtedly, intended to answer some particular purpose; but whether of a religious, civil, or military nature, must be left to some future investigation.

Mr. Whidbey found from ten to three fathoms water close to the shore. He landed at the upper part of the bay, but could not find any water; nor did he see the appearance of any along the shore near the habitations of the Indians, who remained as before described, or fishing on the water, without paying any more attention to the cutter, than if she had been one of their own canoes.

On receiving this report, the Chatham’s cutter, with the Discovery’s yawl and cutter, were ordered to be armed and supplied with a day’s provision; with which we set off to examine the two apparent openings nearest to us. We found the surface of the sea almost covered with aquatic birds of various kinds, but all so extremely shy that our sportsmen were unable to reach them with their guns, although they made many attempts. The first opening to the S. E. appeared to be formed by two high bluffs; the elevated land within them seemingly at a considerable distance. It proved, however, to be a close and compact shore, the apparent vacant space being occupied by a very low sandy beach, off which extended a flat of very shallow soundings. From hence we made the best of our way for land, appearing like an island, off the other supposed opening; from whose summit, which seemed easy of access, there was little doubt of our ascertaining whether the coast afforded any port within reach of the day’s excursion. On landing on the west end of the supposed island, and ascending its eminence which was nearly a perpendicular cliff, our attention was immediately called to a landscape, almost as enchantingly beautiful as the most elegantly finished pleasure grounds in Europe. From the height we were now upon, our conjectures of this land being an island situated before the entrance of an opening in the main land were confirmed. The summit of this island presented nearly a horizontal surface, interspersed with some inequalities of ground, which produced a beautiful variety on an extensive lawn covered with luxuriant grass, and diversified with an abundance of flowers. To the north-westward was a coppice of pine trees and shrubs of various sorts, that seemed as if it had been planted for the sole purpose of protecting from the N. W. winds this delightful meadow, over which were promiscuously scattered a few clumps of trees, that would have puzzled the most ingenious designer of pleasure grounds to have arranged more agreeably. Whilst we stopped to contemplate these several beauties of nature, in a prospect no less pleasing than unexpected, we gathered some gooseberries and roses in a state of considerable forwardness. Casting our eyes along the shore, we had the satisfaction of seeing it much broken, and forming to all appearance many navigable inlets. The inlet now before us did not seem so extensive as we had reason to believe it to be from the ships; yet there was little doubt of its proving sufficiently secure and convenient for all our purposes. We therefore proceeded to its examination, and found its entrance to be about a league wide, having regular good soundings from 10 fathoms close to the shores, to 30, 35, and 38 fathoms in the middle, without any apparent danger from rocks or shoals. Fresh water, however, seemed hitherto a scarce commodity, and yet, from the general face of the country, a deficiency in this respect was not to be apprehended. The shores of the harbour were of a moderate height; its western side, bounded at no very great distance by a ridge of high craggy mountains covered with snow, were, as I conceived, connected with the mountain we took for mount Olympus. In quest of the only great object necessary for constituting this one of the finest harbours in the world, we prosecuted our researches; until almost despairing of success, I suddenly fell in with an excellent stream of very fine water. The design of our excursion was thus happily accomplished; and, after taking some little refreshment, we returned towards the ships, and arrived on board about midnight, perfectly satisfied with the success of our expedition, and amply rewarded for our labour.

During my absence, some of the natives had been trading with the vessels in a very civil and friendly manner. They did not appear to understand the Nootka language; as those of our people who had some knowledge of it were by no means able to make themselves understood.

A light pleasant breeze springing up, we weighed on Wednesday morning the 2d, and steered for the port we had discovered the preceding day, whose entrance about four leagues distant bore S. E. by E. The delightful serenity of the weather greatly aided the beautiful scenery that was now presented; the surface of the sea was perfectly smooth, and the country before us exhibited every thing that bounteous nature could be expected to draw into one point of view. As we had no reason to imagine that this country had ever been indebted for any of its decorations to the hand of man, I could not possibly believe that any uncultivated country had ever been discovered exhibiting so rich a picture. The land which interrupted the horizon between the N. W. and the northern quarters, seemed, as already mentioned, to be much broken; from whence its eastern extent round to the S. E. was bounded by a ridge of snowy mountains, appearing to lie nearly in a north and south direction, on which mount Baker rose conspicuously; remarkable for its height, and the snowy mountains that stretch from its base to the north and south. Between us and this snowy range, the land, which on the sea shore terminated like that we had lately passed, in low perpendicular cliffs, or on beaches of sand or stone, rose here in a very gentle ascent, and was well covered with a variety of stately forest trees. These, however, did not conceal the whole face of the country in one uninterrupted wilderness, but pleasingly clothed its eminences, and chequered the vallies; presenting, in many directions, extensive spaces that wore the appearance of having been cleared by art, like the beautiful island we had visited the day before. As we passed along the shore near one of these charming spots, the tracks of deer, or of some such animal, were very numerous, and flattered us with the hope of not wanting refreshments of that nature, whilst we remained in this quarter.

A picture so pleasing could not fail to call to our remembrance certain delightful and beloved situations in Old England. Thus we proceeded without meeting any obstruction to our progress; which, though not rapid, brought us before noon abreast of the stream that discharges its water from the western shore near five miles within the entrance of the harbour; which I distinguished by the name of Port Discovery, after the ship. There we moored, in 34 fathoms, muddy bottom, about a quarter of a mile from the shore.

The entrance of this harbour is formed by low projecting points, extending, on each side, from the high woodland cliffs which in general bound the coast; bearing by compass from N. 48 W. to N. 54 W. in a line with two corresponding points from the island already described, lying off this harbour. Had this insular production of nature been designed by the most able engineer, it could not have been placed more happily for the protection of the port, not only from the N. W. winds to the violence of which it would otherwise be greatly exposed, but against all attempts of an enemy, when properly fortified; and hence I called it Protection Island.

The stream of water, near which we had taken a very convenient station, appeared to have its source at some distance from its outfall, through one of those low spits of sand already mentioned, which constitute most of the projecting points we had seen ever since our having entered this inlet. These usually acquire a form somewhat circular, though irregular; and, in general, are nearly steep to, extending from the cliffy woodland country, from one to six hundred yards towards the water’s edge, and are composed of a loose sandy soil. The surface of some was almost intirely occupied by a lagoon of salt water, or brackish swamp; others were perfectly dry; no one of them produced any trees; but were mostly covered with a coarse spiry grass, interspersed with strawberries, two or three species of clover, samphire, and a great variety of other small plants; some of which bore very beautiful flowers. On a few of the points were some shrubs that seemed to thrive excessively; such as roses, a species of sweet briar, gooseberries, raspberries, currants, and several other smaller bushes, which, in their respective seasons, produce most probably the several fruits common to this and the opposite side of America. These all appeared to grow very luxuriantly; and, from the quantity of blossoms with which they were loaded, there was great reason to believe them very productive.

We had little trouble in clearing a sufficient space for our encampment, which was very commodiously situated close to the north side of the stream or brook. The tents, observatory, chronometers and instruments, guarded by a party of marines, were sent on shore after dinner; and, whilst they were properly arranging, I made a short excursion up the harbour. It extended nearly in a south direction, about four miles from the ship, and then terminated in a muddy flat across its head, about a quarter of a mile from the shore. The water, which was seven fathoms deep close to the flat, gradually deepened to 10, 20, and 30 fathoms, good holding ground. On this bank were found some small indifferent oysters. The shores beyond it are low and thickly wooded, and through them there appeared to run a very considerable stream of water, with several smaller ones, emptying themselves into the harbour. The back country had the appearance of a swampy fen for a considerable distance. We landed not far from the largest rivulet, where we found a deserted village capable of containing an hundred inhabitants. The houses were built after the Nootka fashion, but did not seem to have been lately the residence of the Indians.

The habitations had now fallen into decay; their inside, as well as a small surrounding space that appeared to have been formerly occupied, were over-run with weeds; amongst which were found several human skulls, and other bones, promiscuously scattered about.

On Thursday morning the 3d we sat seriously to work on board, and on shore where the sailmakers were repairing and altering the sails; coopers inspecting the casks; gunners airing the powder; and parties cutting wood, brewing spruce beer, and filling water: whilst those on board were as busily employed in necessary repairs about the rigging; getting the provisions to hand; clearing the main and after holds for the reception of shingle ballast, of which we had for some time stood in much need; some of our carpenters were stopping leaks about the bows, and the rest assisted in caulking the Chatham’s sides. The serenity of the climate and season was extremely favorable to the execution of their several duties, as also to our astronomical inquiries. The part of the coast that we had now reached being nearly destitute of inhabitants, few circumstances occurred to divert our attention, or interfere with the pursuits in which we were all engaged.

So little leisure or rest had been afforded in the several ports we had hitherto visited since we left the Cape of Good Hope, that it was not until this morning, Sunday the 6th, that our people could be indulged with a holiday, for the purpose of taking some recreation and exercise on shore.

A few of the natives in two or three canoes favored us with their company, and brought with them some fish and venison for sale. The latter was extremely good, and very acceptable, as we had not hitherto obtained any; though on our first arrival we had entertained hopes of procuring a supply, from the numerous tracks of deer which appeared fresh, and in all directions.

These people, in their persons, canoes, arms, implements, &c. seemed to resemble chiefly the inhabitants of Nootka; though less bedaubed with paint, and less filthy in their external appearance. They wore ornaments in their ears, but none were observed in their noses; some of them understood a few words of the Nootka language; they were clothed in the skins of deer, bear, and some other animals, but principally in a woollen garment of their own manufacture, extremely well wrought. They did not appear to possess any furs. Their bows and implements they freely bartered for knives, trinkets, copper, &c.; and, what was very extraordinary, they offered for sale two children, each about six or seven years of age, and, being shewn some copper, were very anxious that the bargain should be closed. This, however, I peremptorily prohibited, expressing, as well as I was able, our great abhorrence of such traffic.

As our several employments, on board and on shore, would still require some time before they could be fully completed; and as I was desirous of obtaining some further knowledge of this inlet, in order that, when the vessels should be ready, we might extend our researches without fear of interruption; I directed the Discovery’s yawl and launch, with the Chatham’s cutter, properly armed, and supplied with stores for five days, to be in readiness early the next morning. I committed to Mr. Broughton the charge of the ships; and to Mr. Whidbey that of the observatory and encampment, with directions to make a survey of the port, and such further necessary observations as circumstances would admit during my absence.

Mr. Menzies, with two of the young gentlemen, accompanied me in the yawl, Mr. Puget commanded the launch, and Mr. Johnstone the Chatham’s cutter. With this arrangement, about five o’clock on Monday morning the 7th, we took our departure for the purpose of becoming more intimately acquainted with the region in which we had so very unexpectedly arrived. The day did not promise to be very auspicious to the commencement of our examination. That uninterrupted serenity of weather that we had experienced the last seven days, seemed now to be materially changed; the wind which, in the day time, had constantly blown from the N. W. with light southwardly airs, or calms, from sun-set until eight or ten o’clock in the forenoon, had now blown, since the preceding evening, a moderate gale from the S. E.; and, before we had proceeded a mile from the ship, brought with it a very thick fog, through which we steered, keeping the starboard, or continental shore, on board, trusting that towards noon the fog would disperse itself and clear away.

On our arrival in port Discovery, we passed to the S. W. of Protection island; another channel, equally as safe and convenient, we now found to the S. E. of it. Having rowed against a strong tide along the shore about two or three leagues to the N. E. from the entrance of port Discovery, we rounded a low projecting point, and though the fog prevented our seeing about us, yet there was no doubt of our having entered some other harbour or arm in the inlet that took a southwardly direction. Here I proposed to wait until the weather should be more favorable, and in the mean time to haul the seine; which was done, along the beach to the southward, with little success.

Prosecuting our labours as fishermen along the beach, we were led near a point similar to that we had passed, and distant from it about two miles; here the fog intirely dispersing, afforded an opportunity of ascertaining its latitude to be 48° 7′ 30″, its longitude 237° 31½′. A very spacious inlet now presented itself, whose N. E. point, in a line with its S. W. being the point from which we had last departed, bore by compass N. 25 W. and seemed about a league asunder: mount Baker bore N. 26 E.; a steep bluff point opposite to us, appearing to form the west point of another arm of this inlet, S. 87 E. about four miles distant; the nearest eastern shore S. 50 E. about two miles; and a very remarkable high round mountain, covered with snow, apparently at the southern extremity of the distant range of snowy mountains before noticed, bore S. 45 E.: the shores of this inlet, like those in port Discovery, shoot out into several low, sandy, projecting points, the southernmost of which bore S. 9 E. distant about two leagues, where this branch of the inlet seemed to terminate, or take some other direction. Here we dined, and having taken the necessary angles, I directed Mr. Puget to sound the mid-channel, and Mr. Johnstone to examine the larboard or eastern shore, whilst I continued my researches on the continental shore, appointing the southernmost low point for our next rendezvous. As we advanced, the country seemed gradually to improve in beauty. The cleared spots were more numerous, and of larger extent; and the remote lofty mountains covered with snow, reflected greater lustre on the fertile productions of the less elevated country. On arriving near our place of rendezvous, an opening was seen, which gave, to the whole of the eastern shore under the examination of Mr. Johnstone, the appearance of being an island. For this we steered, but found it closed by a low sandy neck of land, about two hundred yards in width, whose opposite shore was washed by an extensive salt lake, or more probably by an arm of the sea stretching to the S. E. and directing its main branch towards the high round snowy mountain we had discovered at noon: but where its entrance was situated we could not determine, though conjecture led to suppose it would be found round the bluff point of land we had observed from our dinner station.

In the western corner of this isthmus was situated a deserted Indian village, much in the same state of decay as that which we had examined at the head of port Discovery. No signs of any inhabitants were discernible; nor did we visit it, it being expedient we should hasten to our appointed station, as night was fast approaching, during which Mr. Johnstone did not join us; this led us to suppose he had found some entrance into the above lake or inlet that had escaped my notice; and which afterwards proved to have been the cause of his absence. Having determined the extent of this inlet, whose south extremity is situated in latitude 47° 59′, longitude 237° 31′; at day-break the next morning, Tuesday the 8th, we embarked in pursuit of the entrance into the lake or inlet that we had discovered the preceding evening. About this time we heard and answered the report of a swivel gun. A very strong run of water was now observed, but being brackish, we were under the necessity of carrying our kegs near a mile into the country to replenish them, not having found any fresh water since we left the ships. Whilst we were thus engaged, Mr. Johnstone came up. He had found a narrow channel into the inlet, which had flattered him with returning by the isthmus that had opposed our progress; but to his great mortification he found it closed, and was obliged to keep rowing the greater part of the night, in order that he might join us by the same passage he had entered, which he had now just effected. Its southern entrance was found to be navigable for small boats only, from half flood to half ebb, and was dry at low water; but as its northern part formed a snug little port, and, with its tide, seemed likely to be made useful in careening; Mr. Johnstone was induced to prosecute its examination. The survey of this inlet, which had occupied our time since the preceding day at noon, having been finally accomplished by the joining of the boats, it proved to be a very safe and more capacious harbour than port Discovery; and rendered more pleasant by the high land being at a greater distance from the water side. Its soundings also give it a further advantage, being very regular from side to side, from 10 to 20 fathoms depth of water, good holding ground: but, with respect to fresh water, so far as we could determine by our transitory visit, it was very deficient, as has been already observed. To this port I gave the name of Port Townshend, in honour of the noble Marquis of that name.

Mr. Johnstone, who had a much better opportunity than I had of seeing the above lake or inlet, represented it as appearing very extensive and divided into two or three branches; but he had not been able to determine its communication either with the ocean or the main inlet, although he had great reason to believe it did communicate by the way of the bluff point already mentioned; which about noon was confirmed. In our way thither, we found on one of the low points projecting from the eastern shore, two upright poles set in the ground, about fifteen feet high, and rudely carved. On the top of each was stuck a human head, recently placed there. The hair and flesh were nearly perfect; and the heads appeared to carry the evidence of fury or revenge, as, in driving the stakes through the throat to the cranium, the sagittal, with part of the scalp, was borne on their points some inches above the rest of the skull. Between the stakes a fire had been made, and near it some calcined bones were observed, but none of these appearances enabled us to satisfy ourselves, concerning the manner in which the bodies had been disposed of.

The situation of this point is a little to the southward of the narrow passage Mr. Johnstone had gone through; the north extremity of which is formed by a very long sandy spit, where seventeen of the long supported poles were seen like those before described on New Dungeness. These poles had frequently presented themselves, though in less numbers than on the present occasion; but though these afforded us an opportunity of examining them, they did not contribute the least instruction concerning the purpose for which they were intended. They were uniformly placed in the center of the low sandy spit, at the distance of about eighty yards from each other; and it should seem that they were required to be of certain definite heights, although not all equally high. They were, in general, about six inches in diameter at the bottom, and perfectly straight; and, when too short, a piece was added, which was very neatly scarfed on; the top of each terminating in two points like a crescent, or rather like the straight spreading horns of an ox. The tallest of these poles I should suppose to be about one hundred feet, the shortest not so high by ten or fifteen feet. Between several of them large holes were dug in the ground, in which were many stones that had been burnt, which gave these holes the resemblance of the cooking places in the South-Sea islands. There was, however, no appearance of any recent operations of that kind.

In most of my excursions I met with an indurated clay, much resembling fuller’s-earth. The high steep cliff, forming the point of land we were now upon, seemed to be principally composed of this matter; which, on a more close examination, appeared to be a rich species of the marrow stone, from whence it obtained the name of Marrow-Stone Point. East of this cliff, the shore is extended about a quarter of a mile by one of those sandy projecting points we had so frequently met with. Here we dined, and had an excellent view of this inlet, which appeared to be of no inconsiderable extent. The eastern shore stretched by compass from N. 41 W. to S. 51 E.; the south extremity of the western shore bore S. 26 E.; and, between these latter bearings, the horizon was occupied by islands, or land appearing much broken. The weather was serene and pleasant, and the country continued to exhibit, between us and the eastern snowy range, the same luxuriant appearance. At its northern extremity, mount Baker bore by compass N. 22 E.; the round snowy mountain, now forming its southern extremity, and which, after my friend Rear Admiral Rainier, I distinguished by the name of Mount Rainier, bore N. 42 E. Having finished all our business at this station, the boats received the same directions as before; and having appointed the western part of some land appearing like a long island, and bearing S. E. by S. four leagues distant, for our evening’s rendezvous, we left Marrow-Stone point with a pleasant gale, and every prospect of accomplishing our several tasks. The favorable breeze availed us but little; for we had not advanced a league before we found the influence of so strong an ebb tide that, with all the exertions of our oars in addition to our sails, we could scarcely make any progress along the coast. Towards sun-set, both the wind and the weather materially changed; the former became light and variable, from the southern quarter, and brought with it incessant torrents of rain. We persevered, however, in our endeavours to gain our destined point, but without success, until about eleven at night; when, having collected the boats by signal, we bore up for the western, which was nearest the shore, and landed about one in the morning, completely drenched. With some difficulty we got a fire, and found a tolerable place for our tents. This, though uncomfortable, protected us in some degree from the inclemency of the weather, which detained us all the next day. On Wednesday morning the 9th, we found ourselves near the south extremity of the narrow shoal passage through which Mr. Johnstone had passed from port Townshend, in a very fine cove, affording good anchorage from 10 to 25 fathoms, excellent holding ground, and sufficiently capacious to accommodate many vessels. We traversed its northern shores, but could not find any water, except such as dripped in small quantities from the rocks. Whilst detained by this unfavorable weather, some of the young gentlemen in their excursions found several oak-trees, of which they produced specimens; but stated that they had not seen any exceeding three or four feet in circumference. In consequence of this valuable discovery, the place obtained the name of Oak Cove.

The weather in some measure clearing up soon after day-break on Thursday the 10th, we again embarked, and continued on the same western or continental shore, making a very slow progress, owing to a strong ebb tide, and a fresh S. E. wind, against us.

We had not been long out of Oak cove, when we descried some Indians paddling slowly under the lee of a rocky point, with an apparent intention of waiting our approach. In this they were soon gratified, and on our arrival, they did not seem to express the least doubt of our friendly disposition towards them. They courteously offered such things as they possessed, and cordially accepted some medals, beads, knives, and other trinkets, which I presented to them, and with which they appeared to be highly pleased. We were now employed in taking such necessary angles as the weather permitted us to obtain, and in acquiring some further information of this inlet. It appeared to be divided into two branches; the most extensive one took its direction to the south-eastward of land appearing like a long, low island; the other, apparently much less, stretched to the south-westward of the same land; the shores of which terminating in a high perpendicular bluff point, was, in consequence of the change we experienced in its neighbourhood, called Foulweather Bluff.

As my intentions were not to depart from the continental boundary, the western arm was the first object of our examination; and we directed our course towards a high lump of land that had the appearance of an island, entertaining little doubt of finding a way into the south-eastern, or main arm, south of the supposed long low island. Off this point lie some rocks above water, with others visible only at low tide, extending at the distance of three fourths of a mile, and nearly a mile along the shore. The country thereabouts presented a very different aspect from that which we had been accustomed to see. Instead of the sandy cliffs that form the shores within the straits, these were composed of solid rocks. On them the herbage and shrubs seemed to flourish with less luxuriance, though the trees appeared to form a much greater variety. Having landed about nine o’clock to breakfast, and to take the advantage of the sun and wind to dry some of our clothes, our friends the Indians, seventeen in number, landed also from six canoes about half a mile a-head of us, and then walked towards our party, attended by a single canoe along the shore; they having hauled up all the others. They now approached us with the utmost confidence, without being armed, and behaved in the most respectful and orderly manner. On a line being drawn with a stick on the hand between the two parties, they immediately sat down, and no one attempted to pass it, without previously making signs, requesting permission for so doing.

In their persons, dress, canoes, &c. they much resembled the Indians of port Discovery; they had not the most distant knowledge of the Nootka language, and it was with some difficulty that any of their numerals were acquired. They had not any thing to dispose of excepting their bows, arrows, and some few of their woollen and skin garments; amongst the latter appeared to be the skin of a young lioness. These they exchanged for trinkets, and other things of little value, and in the traffic conduced themselves in a very fair and honest manner.

After we had embarked they examined the place where we had been sitting, and then paddled towards their village, which was situated in a very pleasant cove a little to the S. W. and built with wood, after the fashion of the deserted ones we had before seen. The wind blowing strong from the southward so much retarded our progress, that at noon we had only reached the N. W. point of the arm we had been steering for, and which was not more than five miles from our station in Oak cove, in a direction S. 14 E.; its observed latitude was 47° 53′, longitude 237° 36′, Foulweather bluff forming the opposite point of entrance into the arm, bore east about half a league distant. The strength of the ebb tide obliged us to stop near two hours, and from its rapidity we were induced to believe, as we had before suspected, that either the eastern shore was an island, or that the tide had extensive inland communication.

On the flood returning, we returned our route, and found our supposed high round island connected with the main by a low sandy neck of land, nearly occupied by a salt-water swamp. Into the bay, formed between this point and that we had departed from, descended a few small streams of fresh water; with which, so far as we were enabled to judge, the country did not abound. This opinion was sanctioned by the Indians who visited us this morning, bringing with them small square boxes filled with fresh water, which we could not tempt them to dispose of. Hence this branch of the inlet takes a direction about S. W. ½ S. near 13 miles, and is in general about half a league wide. Its shores exhibited by no means the luxuriant appearance we had left behind, being nearly destitute of the open verdant spots, and alternately composed of sandy or rocky cliffs falling abruptly into the sea, or terminating on a beach; whilst in some places the even land extended from the water side, with little or no elevation. The low projecting points cause the coast to be somewhat indented with small bays, where, near the shore, we had soundings from five to twelve fathoms; but in the middle of the channel, though not more than two miles in width, no bottom could be reached with 110 fathoms of line.

We had not advanced more than two or three miles before we lost the advantage of the flood tide, and met a stream that ran constantly down. This, with a very fresh S. W. wind, so retarded our progress, that it was not until Friday the 11th at noon that we reached the extent above mentioned, which we found to be situated due south of our observatory in port Discovery, in the latitude of 47° 39′. From this station, which I called Hazel Point in consequence of its producing many of those trees, the channel divides into two branches, one taking a direction nearly due north, the other S. W. We still continued on the right hand, or continental shore, and found the northern arm terminate at the distance of about seven miles in a spacious bason, where bottom could not be found with 70 fathoms of line. As we returned to take up our abode for the night at the S. W. point of this arm, we observed some smoke on shore, and saw a canoe hauled up into a small creek; but none of the inhabitants could be discovered, nor did we hear or see any thing of them during the night.

The next morning, Saturday the 12th, at four o’clock, we again embarked. Having been supplied for five days only, our provisions were greatly exhausted, and the commencement of this, which was the sixth, threatened us with short allowance. Our sportsmen had been unable to assist our stock; and the prospect of obtaining any supplies from the natives was equally uncertain. The region we had lately passed seemed nearly destitute of human beings. The brute creation also had deserted the shores; the tracks of deer were no longer to be seen; nor was there an aquatic bird on the whole extent of the canal; animated nature seemed nearly exhausted; and her awful silence was only now and then interrupted by the croaking of a raven, the breathing of a seal, or the scream of an eagle. Even these solitary sounds were so seldom heard, that the rustling of the breeze along the shore, assisted by the solemn stillness that prevailed, gave rise to ridiculous suspicions in our seamen of hearing rattlesnakes, and other hideous monsters, in the wilderness, which was composed of the productions already mentioned, but which appeared to grow with infinitely less vigour than we had been accustomed to witness.

To the westward and N. W. lay that range of snowy mountains, noticed the morning we spoke with the Columbia. These gradually descended in a southern direction, whilst the summit of the eastern range now and then appearing, seemed to give bounds to this low country on that side. Between the S. E. and S. W. a country of a very moderate height seemed to extend as far as the eye could reach; and, from its eminences and vallies, there was reason to believe that this inlet continued to meander a very considerable distance, which made me much regret that we were not provided for a longer excursion. Yet, having proceeded thus far, I resolved to continue our researches, though at the expence of a little hunger, until the inlet should either terminate, or so extensively open, as to render it expedient that the vessels should be brought up; which would be a very tedious and disagreeable operation, in consequence of the narrowness of the channel, and the great depth of the water. Soundings in same places only could be gained close to the shore; and in the middle no bottom had any where been found with 100 fathoms of line, although the shores were in general low, and not half a league asunder.

Having very pleasant weather, and a gentle favorable breeze, we proceeded, and passed several runs of fresh water. Near one of the largest we observed our latitude at noon to be 47° 27′; and once again had the pleasure of approaching an inhabited country. A canoe, in which there were three men, went alongside the launch, and bartered a few trifles for beads, iron, and copper, but declined every invitation from us to come on shore. From Mr. Puget I learned, that they appeared to be very honest in their dealings, and had used their utmost endeavours to prevail on the party in the launch to attend them home, which he understood to be at the distance of about a league, and for which they seemed to make the best of their way, probably to acquaint their friends with the approach of strangers. Soon after we had dined, a smoke was observed near the supposed place of their residence; made, as we concluded, for the purpose of directing us to their habitations, for which we immediately set off, agreeably to their very civil invitation.

An idea during this excursion had occurred to us, that part of the brute creation have an aversion to the absence of the human race; this opinion seemed now in some measure confirmed, by the appearance for the first time during the last three days, of several species of ducks, and other aquatic birds. I do not, however, mean absolutely to infer, that it is the affection of the lower orders of the creation to man, that draws them to the same spots which human beings prefer, since it is highly probable that such places as afford the most eligible residence in point of sustenance to the human race, in an uncivilized state, may be, by the brute creation, resorted to for the same purpose.

The habitations of our new friends appeared to be situated nearly at the extremity of this inlet, or where it appeared to take a very sharp turn to the S. E. still favoring our hopes of returning by the great eastern arm. These, however, vanished on landing, as we found its S. W. direction terminate in land, apparently low and swampy, with a shoal extending some distance from its shores, forming a narrow passage to the south-eastward into a cove or bason, which seemed its termination also in that direction.

Here we found the finest stream of fresh water we had yet seen; from the size, clearness, and rapidity of which, little doubt could be entertained of its having its source in perpetual springs. Near it were two miserable huts with mats thrown carelessly over them, protecting their tenants neither from the heat nor severity of the weather; these huts seemed calculated to contain only the five or six men then present, though previously to our quitting the boats we supposed a greater number of persons had been seen; those were probably their women, who on our approach had retired to the woods.

These good people conducted themselves in the most friendly manner. They had little to dispose of, yet they bartered away their bows and arrows without the least hesitation, together with some small fish, cockles, and clams; of the latter we purchased a large quantity, a supply of which was very acceptable in the low condition of our stock. They made us clearly to understand, that in the cove to the S. E. we should find a number of their countrymen, who had the like commodities to dispose of; and being anxious to leave no doubt concerning a further inland navigation by this arm of the sea, and wishing to establish, as far as possible, a friendly intercourse with the inhabitants of the country, which, from the docile and inoffensive manners of those we had seen, appeared a task of no great difficulty, we proceeded to a low point of land that forms the north entrance into the cove. There we beheld a number of the natives, who did not betray the smallest apprehension at our approach; the whole assembly remained quietly seated on the grass, excepting two or three whose particular office seemed to be that of making us welcome to their country. These presented us with some fish, and received in return trinkets of various kinds, which delighted them excessively. They attended us to their companions, who amounted in number to about sixty, including the women and children. We were received by them with equal cordiality, and treated with marks of great friendship and hospitality. A short time was here employed in exchanges of mutual civilities. The females on this occasion took a very active part. They presented us with fish, arrows, and other trifles, in a way that convinced us they had much pleasure in so doing. They did not appear to differ in any respect from the inhabitants we had before seen; and some of our gentlemen were of opinion that they recognized the persons of one or two who had visited us on the preceding Thursday morning; particularly one man, who had suffered very much from the small pox. This deplorable disease is not only common, but it is greatly to be apprehended is very fatal amongst them, as its indelible marks were seen on many; and several had lost the sight of one eye, which was remarked to be generally the left, owing most likely to the virulent effects of this baneful disorder. The residence of these people here was doubtless of a temporary nature; few had taken the trouble of erecting their usual miserable huts, being content to lodge on the ground, with loose mats only for their covering.

From this point, which is situated nearly at the south extremity of the channel in latitude 47° 21′, longitude 237° 6½′, little doubt existed of the cove terminating its navigation. To ascertain this, whilst I remained with these civil people, Mr. Johnstone was directed to row round the projection that had obstructed our view of the whole circumference of the cove, which is about two miles; and, if it were not closed, to pursue its examination. Our former conjectures being confirmed, on his return we prepared to depart; and, as we were putting off from the shore, a cloak of inferior sea otter skins was brought down, which I purchased for a small piece of copper. Upon this they made signs that if we would remain, more, and of a superior quality, should be produced; but as this was not our object, and as we had finished our proposed task sooner than was expected this morning, to the no small satisfaction of our whole party, we directed our course back towards port Discovery, from which we were now about 70 miles distant.

A fresh northwardly wind, and the approach of night, obliged us to take up our abode about two miles from the Indians, some of whom had followed us along the beach until we landed, when they posted themselves at the distance of about half a mile, to observe our different employments; at dark they all retired, and we neither heard nor saw any thing more of them. The rise and fall of the tide, although the current constantly ran down without any great degree of rapidity, appeared to have been nearly ten feet, and it was high water 3^h 50′ after the moon passed the meridian.

Early on Sunday morning the 13th, we again embarked; directing our route down the inlet, which, after the Right Honourable Lord Hood, I called Hood’s Channel; but our progress homeward was so very slow, that it was Monday afternoon, the 14th, before we reached Foulweather bluff. This promontory is not ill named, for we had scarcely landed, when a heavy rain commenced, which continuing the rest of the day, obliged us to remain stationary. This detention I endeavoured to reconcile with the hope that the next morning would permit some examination, or at least afford us a view of the great eastern arm, before we returned to the ships; but in this I was disappointed. After waiting until ten o’clock in the forenoon of Tuesday the 15th, without the least prospect of an alteration for the better, we again set out with a fresh breeze at S. S. E. attended with heavy squalls and torrents of rain; and about four in the afternoon arrived on board, much to the satisfaction I believe of all parties, as great anxiety had been entertained for our safety, in consequence of the unexpected length of our absence. The swivels fired from our boat and that of the Chatham’s the morning after our departure, were heard on board, and were the cause of much alarm after the expiration of the time appointed for our return. Such attention had been paid to the several common occupations going forward when I left the ships, that I had the satisfaction to find every thing accomplished. But from Mr. Whidbey I understood, that the weather had been so unfavorable to our astronomical pursuits, that he had not been able to obtain any lunar distances, though he had succeeded in ascertaining the rate of the chronometers. Having, however, acquired sufficient authority of this nature for correcting our survey, and carrying it further into execution, I determined to depart as soon as the weather should break up. This did not happen until Thursday afternoon the 17th; when the tents and observatory were re-embarked, and every thing got in readiness for sailing the next morning, Friday the 18th. A light air from the S. E. and pleasant weather, favored our departure; and about breakfast time, the ship arriving at the entrance of the port, I landed on the east end of Protection island, in order, from its eminence, to take a more accurate view of the surrounding shores. In most directions, they seemed much broken, particularly in the northern quarter, being there occupied by an archipelago of islands of various sizes. On my return on board, I directed Mr. Broughton to use his endeavours, in the Chatham, to acquire some information in that line, whilst I continued my examination with the Discovery up the inlet which we had discovered in the boats, to the eastward of Foulweather bluff; appointing the first inlet to the south-eastward of that point on the starboard, or continental shore, as our place of rendezvous. We parted about noon in pleasant weather, and with a fine breeze directed our vessels agreeably to our respective pursuits.

As a more particular description of port Discovery and the surrounding country would have interfered with our primary object of ascertaining the boundary of this coast, I shall reserve it for the subject of the following short chapter; and shall conclude this with such astronomical and nautical observations as circumstances permitted us to make whilst in port, as well as those made previous to our arrival and after our departure; which have assisted in fixing its longitude, as well as that of the exterior coast of New Albion southward to cape Mendocino.

A part of this coast, prior to our visit, had been seen by different navigators, and the portion of certain head lands, capes, &c. given to the world. Several of these I have found myself under the necessity of placing in different latitudes and longitudes, as well those seen by Captain Cook, as others laid down by the different visitors who have followed him. This, however, I have not presumed to do, from a consciousness of superior abilities as an astronomer, or integrity as an historian; but from the conviction, that no one of my predecessors had the good fortune to meet so favorable an opportunity for the examination: under the happy circumstances of which I have been induced to assign, to the several conspicuous head lands, points, &c. the positions ascertained by the result of our several observations; from which, as it evidently appeared that our chronometer had materially accelerated on its Otaheitean rate, it may not be unacceptable to state the mode I adopted for the correction of that error.

In our passage towards, and during our stay amongst, the Sandwich islands, the chronometer, agreeably to its Otaheitean rate, seemed to have been accurate to a scrupulous degree of nicety; but, by some observations made prior to the 26th of March, it appeared to have deviated manifestly from the truth. The observations made on that day were the most remote ones I made use of on this occasion; and, by the mean result of all made since in port Discovery, instead of the chronometer gaining at the rate of 4″ 3‴ per day only, it was found to be gaining 11″ 55‴ per day; and therefore, instead of the allowance of the former rate, from the 26th of March to our arrival on the coast, it was increased to 8″ per day; and from the 17th of April, 11″ 30‴ were allowed as the rate of the chronometer, for the purpose of reducing all our observations from that period to our arrival in port Discovery; which medium, I trust, will hereafter be found fully to answer my expectations. The following will serve to exhibit the different observations made to establish this point, comprehending two hundred and twenty sets of lunar distances, each set containing six observations, taken by the several officers and gentlemen on board, as follow:

From the above observations, and nine days corresponding altitudes, Kendall’s chronometer was found, on the 3th of May at noon, to be fast of mean time at Greenwich 45′ 46″, and to be gaining on mean time at the rate of 11″ 55‴ per day. By the same observations, Mr. Arnold’s, on the 13th of May at noon, was fast of mean time at Greenwich 2^h 56′ 49″, and was gaining on mean time at the rate of 27″ per day.

In port Discovery, the tide was observed to flow on the full of the moon, about ten feet; and was high water 3^h 50′ after the moon passed the meridian.

I shall now proceed to relate such matters respecting the country of New Albion as appeared intitled to notice, and which are not inserted in the preceding narrative.

Port Discovery, already mentioned as a perfectly safe and convenient harbour, has its outer points 1¾ miles asunder, bearing from each other S. 63 W. and N. 63 E.; its entrance is situated in latitude 48° 7′, longitude 237° 20½′, whence the port first takes a direction S. 30 E. about eight miles, and then terminates S. W. by W. about a league further. If it lies under any disadvantage, it is in its great depth of water; in which respect, however, we found no inconvenience, as the bottom was exceedingly good holding ground, and free from rocks. Towards the upper part of the harbour it is of less depth; but I saw no situation more eligible than that in which the vessels rode, off the first low sandy point on the western shore, about 4½ miles within the entrance. Here our wooding, watering, brewing, and all other operations were carried on with the utmost facility and convenience. The shores of Protection island form on its south side, which is about two miles long, a most excellent roadstead, and a channel into port Discovery, near two miles wide on either side, without any interruption, which, with other nautical particulars, are exhibited in the chart.

The country in the neighbourhood of this port may generally be considered of a moderate height, although bounded on the west side by mountains covered with snow, to which the land from the water’s edge rises in a pleasing diversity by hills of gradual ascent. The snow on these hills probably dissolves as the summer advances, for pine trees were produced on their very summits. On the sea shore the land generally terminated in low sandy cliffs; though in some spaces of considerable extent it ran nearly level from high water mark. The soil for the most part is a light sandy loam, in several places of very considerable depth, and abundantly mixed with decayed vegetables. The vigour and luxuriance of its productions proved it to be a rich fertile mould, which possibly might be considerably improved by the addition of the calcareous matter contained in the marrow stone that presented itself in many places. In respect to its mineral productions no great variety was observed. Iron ore, in its various forms, was generally found; and from the weight and magnetic qualities of some specimens, appeared tolerably rich, particularly a kind that much resembled the blood stone. These, with quartz, agate, the common flint, and a great intermixture of other silicious matter, (most of the stones we met with being of that class) with some variety of calcareous, magnesian, and argillaceous earths, were the mineral productions generally found.

The parts of the vegetable kingdom applicable to useful purposes appeared to grow very luxuriantly, and consisted of the Canadian and Norwegian hemlock, silver pines, the Tacamahac and Canadian poplar, arbor vitæ, common yew, black and common dwarf oak, American ash, common hazel, sycamore, sugar, mountain, and Pensylvanian maple, oriental arbutus, American alder, and common willow; these, with the Canadian alder, small-fruited crab, and Pensylvanian cherry trees, constituted the forests, which may be considered rather as encumbered, than adorned, with underwood; although there were several places where, in its present state, the traveller might pass without being in the least incommoded, excepting by the undecayed trunks of trees which had fallen. Of esculent vegetables we found but few; the white or dead nettle, and samphire, were most common; the wild orache, vulgarly called fat-hen, with the vetch. Two or three sorts of wild peas, and the common hedge mustard, were frequently though not always met with, and were considered by us as excellent of their kinds, and served to relish our salt provisions, on which, with a very scanty supply of fish, all hands subsisted. Amongst the more minute productions, Mr. Menzies found constant amusement; and, I believe, was enabled to make some addition to the catalogue of plants.

The knowledge we acquired of the animal kingdom was very imperfect. The skins of the animals already noticed were such as are commonly found amongst the inhabitants on the sea coasts under the same parallel, and towards Nootka; these were mostly of the coarser and more common sorts. Garments of sea otter skins were not worn, nor did many such skins appear amongst the inhabitants. The only living quadrupeds we saw, were a black bear, two or three wild dogs, about as many rabbits, several small brown squirrels, rats, mice, and the skunk, whose effluvia were the most intolerable and offensive I ever experienced.

Few of the feathered tribe were procured, although, on our arrival, the aquatic birds were so numerous, that we expected a profuse supply of wild fowl; but these were all so extremely shy and watchful, that our guns seldom reached them; and, on being fired at, they disappeared. About the shores and on the rocks, we found some species of the tern, the common gull, sea pigeon of Newfoundland, curlews, sand larks, shags, and the black sea pye, like those in New Holland and New Zealand; these were however not so abundant as the others. Nor did the woods appear to be much resorted to by the feathered race; two or three spruce partridges had been seen; with few in point of number, and little variety, of small birds: amongst which the humming birds bore a great proportion. At the outskirts of the woods, and about the water side, the white headed and brown eagle; ravens, carrion crows, American king’s fisher, and a very handsome woodpecker, were seen in numbers; and in addition to these on the low projecting points, and open places in the woods, we frequently saw a bird with which we were wholly unacquainted, though we considered it to be a species of the crane or heron; some of their eggs were found of a bluish cast, considerably larger than that of a turkey, and well tasted. These birds have remarkably long legs and necks, and their bodies seemed to equal in size the largest turkey. Their plumage is uniformly of a light brown, and when erect, their height, on a moderate computation, could not be less than four feet. They seemed to prefer open situations, and used no endeavours to hide or screen themselves from our sight, but were too vigilant to allow our sportsmen taking them by surprise. Some blue, and some nearly white herons of the common size were also seen.

The sea was not much more bountiful to us of its animal productions than was its shores. The scanty supply of fish we were enabled to procure, consisted in general of the common sorts of small flat fish, elephant fish, sea bream, sea perch, a large sort of sculpin, some weighing six or eight pounds, with a greenish colour about their throat, belly, and gills; these were very coarse, but no ill effects were consequent on eating them. The above, with a few trout, a small sort of eel extremely well tasted, of a yellowish green colour, were the fishes we most generally caught. A small common black snake, a few lizards and frogs, together with a variety of common insects, none of which could be considered as very troublesome, were the only creatures of the reptile tribe we observed.

This country, regarded in an agricultural point of view, I should conceive is capable of high improvement, notwithstanding the soil in general may be considered to be light and sandy. Its spontaneous productions in the vicinity of the woods are nearly the same, and grow in equal luxuriance with those under a similar parallel in Europe; favoring the hope, that if nutritious exotics were introduced and carefully attended to, they would succeed in the highest degree. The mildness of the climate, and the forwardness of every species of plants, afforded strong grounds in support of this opinion.

The interruptions we experienced in the general serenity of the weather, were probably no more than were absolutely requisite in the spring of the year to bring forward the annual productions. These were attended with no violence of wind, and the rain which fell, although disagreeable to travellers, was not so heavy as to beat down and destroy the first efforts of vegetation. Under all these favorable circumstances, the country yet labours under one material disadvantage in the scarcity of fresh water. The streams however that we met with appeared sufficient to answer all purposes, in the domestic œconomy of life, to a very numerous body of inhabitants: and, were the country cleared and searched, there can be little doubt that a variety of eligible situations might be found for establishments, where, with proper exertions, wholesome water might be procured.

What the low country before us toward the range of snowy mountains may produce remains for future investigation; but judging from what we had seen, it seemed more than probable, that those natural channels of the sea wind in various directions; and that they are capable of affording great advantages to commercial pursuits, by opening communications with parts of the interior country commodiously and delightfully situated. The great depth of water may be offered as an insuperable objection; yet, on a more minute examination, it is likely that many eligible and convenient stopping places might be found for the security of such vessels as would necessarily be employed in those occupations.

Having considered with impartiality the excellencies and defects of this country, as far as came under our observation, it now remains to add a few words on the character of its inhabitants.

None being resident in port Discovery, and our intercourse with them having been very confined, the knowledge we may have acquired of them, their manners, and customs, must necessarily be very limited, and our conclusions drawn chiefly from comparison. From New Dungeness we traversed nearly one hundred and fifty miles of their shores without seeing that number of inhabitants. Those who came within our notice so nearly resembled the people of Nootka, that the best delineation I can offer is a reference to the description of those people, which has before been so ably and with so much justice given to the public.^[5] The only difference I observed was, that in their stature they did not generally appear quite so stout; and in their habits were less filthy; for though these people adorn their persons with the same sort of paint, yet it is not laid on in that abundance, nor do they load their hair with that immense quantity of oil and colouring matter, which is so customary amongst the people of Nootka; their hair, as before mentioned, being in general neatly combed and tied behind.

In their weapons, implements, canoes, and dress, they vary little. Their native woollen garment was most in fashion, next to it the skins of deer, bear, &c.; a few wore dresses manufactured from bark, which, like their woollen ones, were very neatly wrought.

Their spears, arrows, fish-gigs, and other weapons, were shaped exactly like those of Nootka; but none were pointed with copper, or with muscle shell. The three former were generally barbed, and those pointed with common flint, agate, and bone, seemed of their original workmanship. Yet more of their arrows were observed to be pointed with thin flat iron, than with bone or flint, and it was very singular that they should prefer exchanging those pointed with iron to any of the others. Their bows were of a superior construction: these in general were from two and a half to three feet in length; the broadest part in the middle was about an inch and a half, and about three quarters of an inch thick, neatly made, gradually tapering to each end, which terminated in a shoulder and a hook, for the security of the bow string. They were all made of yew, and chosen with a naturally inverted curve suited to the method of using them. From end to end of the concave side, which when strung became the convex part, a very strong strip of an elastic hide is attached to some, and the skins of serpents to others, exactly the shape and length of the bow, neatly and firmly affixed to the wood by means of a cement, the adhesive property of which I never saw, or heard of being, equalled. It is not to be affected by either dry or damp weather, and forms so strong a connection with the wood, as to prevent a separation without destroying the component parts of both. The bow firing is made of the sinew of some marine animal laid loose, in order to be twisted at pleasure, as the temperature of the atmosphere may require to preserve it at a proper length. Thus is this very neat little weapon rendered portable, elastic, and effective in the highest degree, if we may be allowed to judge by the dexterity with which it was used by one of the native at port Discovery.

We had little opportunity of any satisfactory information with regard to the public regulations, or private œconomy, of these people. The situation and appearance of the places we found them generally inhibiting, indicated their being much accustomed to a change of residence; the deserted villages tended to strengthen the conjecture of their being wanderers. Territorial property appeared to be of little importance; there was plenty of room for their fixed habitations, and those of a temporary nature, which we now found them mostly to occupy, being principally competed of cross slicks, covered with a few mats, as easily found a spot for their erection, as they were removed from one station to another, either as inclination might lead, or necessity compel: and having a very extensive range of domain, they were not liable to interruption of opposition from their few surrounding neighbours.

From these circumstances alone, it may be somewhat premature to conclude that this delightful country has always been thus thinly inhabited; on the contrary, there are reasons to believe it has been infinitely more populous. Each of the deserted villages was nearly, if not quite, equal to contain all the scattered inhabitants we saw, according to the custom of the Nootka people; to whom these have great affinity in their persons, fashions, wants, comforts, construction of these their fixed habitations, and in their general character. It is also possible, that most of the clear spaces may have been indebted, for the removal of their timber and underwood, to manual labour. Their general appearance furnished this opinion, and their situation on the most pleasant and commanding eminences, protected by the forest on every side, except that which would have precluded a view of the sea, seemed to encourage the idea. Not many years since, each of these vacant places might have been allotted to the habitations of different societies, and the variation observed in their extent might have been conformable to the size of each village; on the site of which, since their abdication, or extermination, nothing but the smaller shrubs and plants had yet been able to rear their heads.

In our different excursions, particularly those in the neighbourhood of port Discovery, the scull, limbs, ribs, and back bones, or some other vestiges of the human body, were found in many places promiscuously scattered about the beach, in great numbers. Similar relics were also frequently met with during our survey in the boats; and I was informed by the officers, that in their several perambulations, the like appearances had presented themselves so repeatedly, and in such abundance, as to produce an idea that the environs of port Discovery were a general cemetery for the whole of the surrounding country. Notwithstanding these circumstances do not amount to a direct proof of the extensive population they indicate, yet, when combined with other appearances, they warranted an opinion, that at no very remote period this country had been far more populous than at present. Some of the human bodies were found disposed of in a very singular manner. Canoes were suspended between two or more trees about twelve feet from the ground, in which were the skeletons of two or three persons; others of a larger size were hauled up into the outskirts of the woods, which contained from four to seven skeletons covered over with a broad plank. In some of these broken bows and arrows were found, which at first gave rise to a conjecture, that these might have been warriors, who after being mortally wounded, had, whilst their strength remained, hauled up their canoes for the purpose of expiring quietly in them. But on a further examination this became improbable, as it would hardly have been possible to have preserved the regularity of position in the agonies of death, of to have defended their sepulchres with the broad plank with which each was covered.

The few skeletons we saw so carefully deposited in the canoes, were probably the chiefs, priests, or leaders of particular tribes, whose followers most likely continue to possess the highest respect for their memory and remains: and the general knowledge I had obtained from experience of the regard which all savage nations pay to their funeral solemnities, made me particularly solicitous to prevent any indignity from being wantonly offered to their departed friends. Baskets were also found suspended on high trees, each containing the skeleton of a young child; in some of which were also small square boxes filled with a kind of white paste, resembling such as I had seen the natives eat, supposed to be made of the saranne root; some of these boxes were quite full, others were nearly empty, eaten probably by the mice, squirrels, or birds. On the next low point, south of our encampment, where the gunners were airing the powder, they met with several holes in which human bodies were interred slightly covered over, and in different states of decay, some appearing to have been very recently deposited. About half a mile to the northward of our tents, where the land is nearly level with high water mark, a few paces within the skirting of the wood, a canoe was found suspended between two trees, in which were three human skeletons; and a few paces to the right was a cleared place of nearly forty yards round; where, from the fresh appearance of the burnt slumps, most of its vegetable productions had very lately been consumed by fire. Amongst the ashes we found the sculls, and other bones, of near twenty persons in different stages of calcination; the fire, however, had not reached the suspended canoe, nor did it appear to have been intended that it should. The skeletons found thus disposed, in canoes, or in baskets, bore a very small proportion to the number of sculls and other human bones indiscriminately scattered about the shores. Such are the effects; but of the cause or causes that have operated to produce them, we remained totally unacquainted; whether occasioned by epidemic disease, or recent wars. The character and general deportment of the few inhabitants we occasionally saw, by no means countenanced the latter opinion; they were uniformly civil and friendly, without manifesting the least sign of fear or suspicion at our approach; nor did their appearance indicate their having been much inured to hostilities. Several of their stoutest men had been seen perfectly naked, and contrary to what might have been expected of rude nations habituated to warfare, their skins were mostly unblemished by scars, excepting such as the small pox seemed to have occasioned; a disease which there is great reason to believe is very fatal amongst them. It is not, however, very easy to draw any just conclusions of the true cause from which this havoc of the human race proceeded: this must remain for the investigation of others who may have more leisure, and a better opportunity, to direct such an inquiry: yet it may not be unreasonable to conjecture, that the present apparent depopulation may have arisen in some measure from the inhabitants of this interior part having been induced to quit their former abode, and to have moved nearer the exterior coast for the convenience of obtaining in the immediate mart, with more ease and at a cheaper rate, those valuable articles of commerce, that within these late years have been brought to the sea coasts of this continent by Europeans and the citizens of America, and which are in great estimation amongst these people, being possessed by all in a greater or less degree.

Agreeably to the proposed destination of each vessel, the Discovery and Chatham, at noon, on Friday the 18th of May, directed their course towards the objects of their respective pursuits; and as I had already traced the western shore in the boats, we now kept the eastern side on board, which, like the other, abounds with those verdant open places that have been so repeatedly noticed. On one of these beautiful lawns, nearly a league within the entrance of the inlet, about thirty of the natives came from the surrounding woods, and attentively noticed us as we sailed along. We did not discover any habitations near them, nor did we see any canoes on the beach. On the south side of the lawn, were many uprights in the ground, which had the appearance of having formerly been the supporters of their large wooden houses. We used our endeavours to invite these good people on board, but without effect. After advancing about four leagues up the inlet, the pleasant gale, which had attended us from the N. W. died away, and a strong ebb making against us, we were compelled to anchor for the night, in 18 fathoms water, about half a mile from the eastern shore: Marrow-Stone point bearing by compass N. 56 W.; the N. E. point of Oak cove S. 48 W.; and Foulweather bluff S. 51 E.

During the night, we had a gentle southerly breeze, attended by a fog which continued until nine o’clock on Saturday morning the 19th, when it was dispersed by a return of the N. W. wind, with which we pursued our route up the inlet; our progress was, however, soon retarded by the fore-topsail yard giving way in the slings; on examination it appeared to have been in a defective state some time. The spare fore-topsail yard was also very imperfect; which obliged us to get the spare maintopsail yard up in its room; and it was a very fortunate circumstance, that these defects were discovered in a country abounding with materials to which we could resort; having only to make our choice from amongst thousands of the finest spars the world produces.

To describe the beauties of this region, will, on some future occasion, be a very grateful task to the pen of a skilful panegyrist. The serenity of the climate, the innumerable pleasing landscapes, and the abundant fertility that unassisted nature puts forth, require only to be enriched by the industry of man with villages, mansions, cottages, and other buildings, to render it the most lovely country that can be imagined; whilst the labour of the inhabitants would be amply rewarded, in the bounties which nature seems ready to bestow on cultivation.

About noon, we passed an inlet on the larboard or eastern shore, which seemed to stretch far to the northward; but, as it was out of the line of our intended pursuit of keeping the continental shore on board, I continued our course up the main inlet, which now extended as far as, from the deck, the eye could reach, though, from the mast-head, intervening land appeared, beyond which another high round mountain covered with snow was discovered, apparently situated several leagues to the south of mount Rainier, and bearing by compass S. 22 E. This I considered as a further extension of the eastern snowy range; but the intermediate mountains, connecting it with mount Rainier, were not sufficiently high to be seen at that distance. Having advanced about eight leagues from our last nights station, we arrived off a projecting point of land, not formed by a low sandy spit, but rising abruptly in a low cliff about ten or twelve feet from the water side. Its surface was a beautiful meadow covered with luxuriant herbage; on its western extreme, bordering on the woods, was an Indian village, consisting of temporary habitations, from whence several of the natives assembled to view the ship as we passed by; but none of them ventured off, though several of their canoes were seen on the beach. Here the inlet divided into two extensive branches, one taking a south-eastwardly, the other a south-western direction. Near this place was our appointed rendezvous with the Chatham; and under a small island to the S. W. of us, appeared an eligible spot, in which, with security, we might wait her arrival; but, on approaching it, we found the depth of water no where less than 60 fathoms, within a cable’s length of the shore. This obliged us to turn up towards the village point, where we found a commodious roadstead; and about seven o’clock in the evening, anchored about a mile from the shore in 38 fathoms water, black sand and muddy bottom. The village point bore by compass N. 4. E.; the nearest opposite shore of the main inlet N. 52 E. about a league distant; and the direction of its southern extent S. E.; the above island lying before the branch leading to the south-westward, bore from S. 36 E. to south, about half a league distant; and the appearance of a small inlet or cove, west, about the same distance. We had no sooner anchored than a canoe in which were two men, paddled round the ship. We attempted to induce them, but they were not to be prevailed upon, to enter the vessel; and having satisfied their curiosity, they hastily returned to the shore. Before the evening closed in, I proceeded to acquire some information respecting the small opening to the westward. It was nearly dark before I reached the shore, which seemed to form a small cove about half a mile in width, encircled by compact shores, with a cluster of rocks above water, nearly in its centre, and little worthy of further notice. On my return on board, I directed that a party, under the command of Lieutenant Puget and Mr. Whidbey, should, in the launch and cutter, proceed, with a supply of provisions for a week, to the examination of that branch of the inlet leading to the south-westward; keeping always the starboard or continental shore on board; which was accordingly carried into execution, at four o’clock the next morning.

Our situation being some what incommoded by the meeting of different tides, we moved nearer in, and anchored in the same depth, and on the same bottom as before, very conveniently to the shore. Our eastern view was now bounded by the range of snowy mountains from mount Baker, bearing by compass north to mount Rainier, bearing N. 54 E. The new mountain was hid by the more elevated parts of the low land; and the intermediate snowy mountains in various rugged and grotesque shapes, were seen just to rear their heads above the lofty pine trees, which appearing to compose one uninterrupted forest, between us and the snowy range, presented a most pleasing landscape; nor was our western view destitute of similar diversification. The ridge of mountains on which mount Olympus is situated, whose rugged summits were seen no less fancifully towering over the forest than those on the eastern side, bounded to a considerable extent our western horizon; on these however, not one conspicuous eminence arose, nor could we now distinguish that which on the sea coast appeared to be centrally situated, and forming an elegant bi-forked-mountain. From the southern extremity of these ridges of mountains, there seemed to be an extensive tract of land moderately elevated and beautifully diversified by pleasing inequalities of surface, enriched with every appearance of fertility.

On Sunday the 20th, in the meadow and about the village many of the natives were seen moving about, whose curiosity seemed little excited on our account. One canoe only had been near us, from which was thrown on board the skin of some small animal, and then it returned instantly to the shore.

Our carpenters were busily engaged in replacing the topsail yards with proper spars, which were conveniently found for that purpose. Some beer was brewed from the spruce, which was here very excellent, and the rest of the crew were employed in a variety of other essential services. The gentle N. W. wind generally prevailed in the day, and calms, or light southerly breezes during the night.

Towards noon I went on shore to the village point, for the purpose of observing the latitude; on which occasion I visited the village, if it may be so dignified, as it appeared the most lowly and meanest of its kind. The best of the huts were poor and miserable, constructed something after the fashion of a soldier’s tent, by two cross slicks about five feet high, connected at each end by a ridge-pole from one to the other, over some of which was thrown a coarse kind of mat, over others a few loose branches of trees, shrubs, or grass; none however appeared to be constructed for protecting them, either against the heat of summer, or the inclemency of winter. In them were hung up to be cured by the smoke of the fire they kept constantly burning, clams, muscles, and a few other kinds of fish, seemingly intended for their winter’s subsistence. The clams perhaps were not all reserved for that purpose, as we frequently saw them strung and worn about the neck, which, as inclination directed, were eaten, two, three, or half a dozen at a time. This station did not appear to have been preferred for the purpose of fishing, as we saw few of the people so employed; nearly the whole of the inhabitants belonging to the village, which consisted of about eighty or an hundred men, women, and children, were busily engaged like swine, rooting up this beautiful verdant meadow in quest of a species of wild onion, and two other roots, which in appearance and taste greatly resembled the saranne, particularly the largest; the size of the smallest did not much exceed a large pea: this Mr. Menzies considered to be a new genus. The collecting of these roots was most likely the object which attached them to this spot; they all seemed to gather them with much avidity, and to preserve them with great care, most probably for the purpose of making the paste I have already mentioned.

These people varied in no essential point from the natives we had seen since our entering the straits. Their persons were equally ill made, and as much besmeared with oil and different coloured paints, particularly with red ochre, and a sort of shining chaffy mica, very ponderous, and in colour much resembling black lead; they likewise possessed more ornaments, especially such as were made of copper, the article most valued and esteemed amongst them. They seemed not wanting in offers of friendship and hospitality; as on our joining their party, we were presented with such things as they had to dispose of: and they immediately prepared a few of the roots, and some shell fish for our refreshment, which were very palatable. In these civil offices, two men who appeared the most active, and to be regarded by their countrymen as the most important persons of the party, were particularly assiduous to please. To each of them I made presents, which were received very thankfully; and on my returning towards the boat, they gave me to understand by signs, the only means we had of conversing with each other, that it would not be long ere they returned our visit on board the ship. This they accordingly did in the afternoon, with no small degree of ceremony. Beside the canoes which brought these two superior people, five others attended, seemingly as an appendage to the consequence of these chiefs; who would not repair immediately on board, but agreeably to the custom of Nootka, advanced within about two hundred yards of the ship, and there resting on their paddles a conference was held, followed by a song principally sung by one man, who at stated times was joined in chorus by several others, whilst some in each canoe kept time with the handles of their paddles, by striking them against the gunwale or side of the canoe, forming a sort of accompanyment, which though expressed by simple notes only, was by no means destitute of an agreeable effect. This performance took place whilst they were paddling slowly round the ship, and on its being concluded, they came alongside with the greatest confidence, and without fear or suspicion immediately entered into a commercial intercourse with our people. The two chiefs however required some little intreaty before they could be induced to venture on board. I again presented them with some valuables, amongst which was a garment for each of blue cloth, some copper, iron in various shapes, and such trinkets as I thought would prove most acceptable. In this respect either my judgment failed, or their passion for traffic and exchange is irresistible; for no sooner had they quitted the cabin, than, excepting the copper, they bartered away on deck nearly every article I had given them, for others of infinitely less utility or real value, consisting of such things as they could best appropriate to the decoration of their persons, and other ornamental purposes, giving uniformly a decided preference to copper.

In the morning of Monday the 21st, fell a few showers of rain, which were neither so heavy as to retard our business on shore, nor to prevent the friendly Indians paying us a visit on board. Convinced of our amicable disposition towards them, near the whole of the inhabitants, men, women and children, gratified their curiosity in the course of the day by paddling round the ship; for neither the ladies nor the children ventured on board. This was the case also with the generality of the men, who contentedly remained in their canoes, rowing from side to side, bartering their bows and arrows; which, with their woollen and skin garments, and a very few indifferent sea otter skins, composed the whole of their assortment for trading; these they exchanged, in a very fair and honest manner, for copper, hawk’s bells, and buttons, articles that greatly attracted their attention. Their merchandize would have been infinitely more valuable to us, had it been comprised of eatables, such as venison, wild fowl or fish, as our sportsmen and fishermen had little success in either of these pursuits. All the natives we had as yet seen, uniformly preferred offering such articles as composed their dress, arms, and implements for sale, rather than any kind of food, which might probably arise either from the country not affording them a super-abundance of provisions, or from their having early discovered that we were more curious than hungry.

In the evening, some of the canoes were observed passing from the village to the opposite shore, for the purpose, as we supposed, of inviting their neighbours to partake of the advantages of our commerce. This was confirmed the next morning, Tuesday the 22d, by the return of our friends, accompanied by several large canoes, containing near eighty persons, who after ceremoniously paddling round the ship, came alongside without the least hesitation, and conduced themselves with the utmost propriety. The principal number of these evidently belonged to the other side of the inlet; they were infinitely more cleanly than our neighbours; and their canoes were of a very different form. Those of our friends at the village, exactly corresponded with the canoes at Nootka, whilst those of our new visitors were cut off square at each end; and were, in shape, precisely like the canoes seen to the southward of cape Orford, though of greater length, and considerably larger. The commodities they brought for sale were trifles of a similar description to those offered by the other society: in all other respects, they corresponded with the generality of the few inhabitants of the country with whom we had become acquainted.

On Wednesday the 23d, we had some lightning, thunder, and rain, from the S. E.; this continued a few hours, after which the day was very serene and pleasant. Some of our gentlemen having extended their walk to the cove I had visited the first evening of our arrival, found it to communicate by a very narrow passage with an opening apparently of some extent. In consequence of this information, accompanied by Mr. Baker in the yawl, I set out the next morning, Thursday the 24th, to examine it, and found the entrance of the opening situated in the western corner of the cove, formed by two interlocking points, about a quarter of a mile from each other; these formed a channel about half a mile long, free from rocks or shoals, in which there was not less than five fathoms water. From the west end of this narrow channel the inlet is divided into two branches, one extending to the S. W. about five or six miles, the other to the north about the same distance, constituting a most complete and excellent port, to all appearance perfectly free from danger, with regular soundings from four fathoms near the shores, to nine and ten fathoms in the middle, good holding ground. It occupied us the whole day to row round it, in doing which we met a few straggling Indians, whose condition seemed excessively wretched and miserable. The country that surrounds this harbour varies in its elevation; in some places the shores are low level land, in others of a moderate height, falling in steep low cliffs on the sandy beach, which in most places binds the shores. It produces some small rivulets of water, is thickly wooded with trees, mostly of the pine tribe, and with some variety of shrubs. This harbour, after the gentleman who discovered it, obtained the name of Port Orchard. The best passage into it is found by steering from the village point for the south point of the cove, which is easily distinguished, lying from the former S. 62 W. at the distance of about 2½ miles, then hauling to the N. W. into the cove, keeping on the larboard or S. W. shore, and passing between it and the rocks in the cove; in this channel the depth of water is from nine to fifteen fathoms, gradually decreasing to five fathoms in the entrance into the port. There is also another passage round to the north of these rocks, in which there is seven fathoms water; this is narrow, and by no means so commodious to navigate as the southern channel.

On my return to the ship I understood that few of our friendly neighbours had visited the vessel. The party was evidently reduced, and those who still remained having satisfied their curiosity, or being compelled by their mode of life, were preparing to depart with all their stock and effects. These it required little labour to remove, consisting chiefly of the mats for covering their habitations, wherever it may be convenient to pitch them; their skins and woollen garments, their arms, implements, and such articles of food as they had acquired during their residence; which, with their family and dogs, all find accommodation in a singe canoe; and thus the party is easily conveyed to any station, which fancy, convenience, or necessity may direct. The dogs belonging to this tribe of Indians were numerous, and much resembled those of Pomerania, though in general somewhat larger. They were all shorn as close to the skin at sheep are in England; and so compact were their fleeces, that large portions could be lifted up by a corner without causing any separation. They were composed of a mixture of a coarse kind of wool, with very fine long hair, capable of being spun into yarn. This gave me reason to believe that their woollen clothing might in part be composed of this material mixed with a finer kind of wool from some other animal, as their garments were all too fine to be manufactured from the coarse coating of the dog alone. The abundance of these garments amongst the few people we met with, indicates the animal from whence the raw material is procured, to be very common in this neighbourhood; but as they have no one domesticated excepting the dog, their supply of wool for their clothing can only be obtained by hunting the wild creature that produces it; of which we could not obtain the least information.

The weather continued delightfully serene and pleasant; the carpenters had executed their task, and the topsail yards were replaced.

In the course of the forenoon of Friday the 25th, some of our Indian friends brought us a whole deer, which was the first intire animal that had been offered to us. This they had killed on the island, and from the number of persons that came from thence, the major part of the remaining inhabitants of the village, with a great number of their dogs, seemed to have been engaged in the chase. This and another deer, parts of which remained in one of their canoes, had cost all these good people nearly a day’s labour, as they went over to the island for this purpose the preceding evening; yet they were amply rewarded for their exertions by a small piece of copper not a foot square. This they gladly accepted as a full compensation for their venison, on which the whole party could have made two or three good meals; such is the esteem and value with which this metal is regarded!

About four in the afternoon, agreeably to our expectations, the Chatham was seen from the mast-head over the land, and about sun-set she arrived, and anchored near us. Mr. Broughton informed me, that the part of the coast he had been directed to explore, consisted of an archipelago of islands lying before an extensive arm of the sea stretching in a variety of branches between the N. W. north, and N. N. E. Its extent in the first direction was the most capacious, and presented an unbounded horizon.

On due consideration of all the circumstances that had fallen under my own observation, and the intelligence now imparted by Mr. Broughton, I became thoroughly convinced, that our boats alone could enable us to acquire any correct or satisfactory information respecting this broken country; and although the execution of such a service in open boats would necessarily be extremely laborious, and expose those so employed to numberless dangers and unpleasant situations, that might occasionally produce great fatigue, and protract their return to the ships; yet that mode was undoubtedly the most accurate, the most ready, and indeed the only one in our power to pursue for ascertaining the continental boundary.

The main arm of the inlet leading towards mount Rainier still remained unexplored. It became evident from the length of time Mr. Puget and Mr. Whidbey had been absent, that the inlet they had been sent to examine, had led them to a considerable distance. We had no time to spare, and as it was equally evident none ought to be lost, I directed that Mr. Johnstone, in the Chatham’s cutter, should accompany me in the morning, in the Discovery’s yawl, for the purpose of examining the main arm; and that Mr. Broughton, on the return of our boats, which were now hourly expected, should take Mr. Whidbey in one of them, and proceed immediately to the investigation of that arm of this inlet, which we had passed on the eastern shore, stretching to the N. N. E.; and I desired that the Chatham might be anchored within its entrance in some conspicuous place on the starboard side, where the Discovery or the boats would easily find her, in case the result of my inquiries should render it expedient for the vessels to proceed further in that direction.

On Saturday morning the 26th, accompanied by Mr. Baker in the yawl, and favored by pleasant weather and a fine northwardly gale, we departed, and made considerable progress. Leaving to the right the opening which had been the object of Mr. Puget and Mr. Whidbey’s expedition, we directed our route along the western shore of the main inlet, which is about a league in width; and as we proceeded the smoke of several fires were seen on its eastern shore. When about four leagues on a southwardly direction from the ships, we found the course of the inlet take a south-westerly inclination, which we pursued about six miles with some little increase of width. Towards noon we landed on a point on the eastern shore, whose latitude I observed to be 47° 21′, round which we flattered ourselves we should find the inlet take an extensive eastwardly course. This conjecture was supported by the appearance of a very abrupt division in the snowy range of mountains immediately to the south of mount Rainier, which was very conspicuous from the ship, and the main arm of the inlet appearing to stretch in that direction from the point we were then upon. We here dined, and although our repast was soon concluded, the delay was irksome, as we were excessively anxious to ascertain the truth, of which we were not long held in suspense. For having passed round the point, we found the inlet to terminate here in an extensive circular compact bay, whose waters washed the base of mount Rainier, though its elevated summit was yet at a very considerable distance from the shore, with which it was connected by several ridges of hills rising towards it with gradual ascent and much regularity. The forest trees, and the several shades of verdure that covered the hills, gradually decreased in point of beauty, until they became invisible; when the perpetual clothing of snow commenced, which seemed to form a horizontal line from north to south along this range of rugged mountains, from whose summit mount Rainier rose conspicuously, and seemed as much elevated above them as they were above the level of the sea; the whole producing a most grand, picturesque effect. The lower mountains as they descended to the right and left, became gradually relieved of their frigid garment; and as they approached the fertile woodland region that binds the shores of this inlet in every direction, produced a pleasing variety. We now proceeded to the N. W. in which direction the inlet from hence extended, and afforded us some reason to believe that it communicated with that under the survey of our other party. This opinion was further corroborated by a few Indians, who had in a very civil manner accompanied us some time, and who gave us to underhand that in the north-western direction this inlet was very wide and extensive; this they expressed before we quitted our dinner station, by opening their arms, and making other signs that we should be led a long way by pursuing that route; whereas, by bending their arm, or spreading out their hand, and pointing to the space contained in the curve of the arm, or between the fore-finger and thumb, that we should find our progress soon stopped in the direction which led towards mount Rainier. The little respect which most Indians bear to truth, and their readiness to assert what they think is most agreeable for the moment, or to answer their own particular wishes and inclinations, induced me to place little dependance on this information, although they could have no motive for deceiving us.

About a dozen of these friendly people had attended at our dinner, one part of which was a venison pasty. Two of them, expressing a desire, to pass the line of separation drawn between us, were permitted to do so. They sat down by us, and ate of the bread and fish that we gave them without the least hesitation; but on being offered some of the venison, though they saw us eat it with great relish, they could not be induced to taste it. They received it from us with great disgust, and presented it round to the rest of the party, by whom it underwent a very strict examination. Their conduct on this occasion left no doubt in our minds that they believed it to be human flesh, an impression which it was highly expedient should be done away. To satisfy them that it was the flesh of the deer, we pointed to the skins of the animal they had about them. In reply to this they pointed to each other, and made signs that could not be misunderstood, that it was the flesh of human beings, and threw it down in the dirt, with gestures of great aversion and displeasure. At length we happily convinced them of their mistake by shewing them a haunch we had in the boat, by which means they were undeceived, and some of them ate of the remainder of the pye with a good appetite.

This behaviour, whilst in some measure tending to substantiate their knowledge or suspicions that such barbarities have existence, led us to conclude, that the character given of the natives of North-West America does not attach to every tribe. These people have been represented not only as accustomed inhumanly to devour the flesh of their conquered enemies; but also to keep certain servants, or rather slaves, of their own nation, for the sole purpose of making the principal part of the banquet, to satisfy the unnatural savage gluttony of the chiefs of this country, on their visits to each other. Were such barbarities practised once a month, as is stated, it would be natural to suppose these people, so inured, would not have shewn the least aversion to eating flesh of any description; on the contrary, it is not possible to conceive a greater degree of abhorrence than was manifested by these good people, until their minds were made perfectly easy that it was not human flesh we offered them to eat. This instance must necessarily exonerate at least this particular tribe from so barbarous a practice; and, as their affinity to the inhabitants of Nootka, and of the sea coast, to the south of that place, in their manners and customs, admits of little difference, it is but charitable to hope those also, on a more minute inquiry, may be found not altogether deserving such a character. They are not, however, free from the general failing attendant on a savage life. One of them having taken a knife and fork to imitate our manner of eating, found means to secrete them under his garment; but, on his being detected, gave up his plunder with the utmost good humour and unconcern.

They accompanied us from three or four miserable huts, near the place where we had dined, for about four miles; during which time they exchanged the only things they had to dispose of, their bows, arrows, and spears, in the most fair and honest manner, for hawk’s bells, buttons, beads, and such useless commodities.

The first information of the natives we found perfectly correct; and it was not long before we had every reason to give credit to the second, by finding the inlet divided into two branches, one taking a northwardly direction towards the ships, giving that which, in the morning, we had considered to be the western shore of the main inlet, the appearance of an island, eight or nine leagues in circuit; the other stretched to the south-westward; and into which ran a very strong tide. Although there was little doubt of our having been preceded in the examination of this branch, yet, as the strength of the influx indicated its extremity to be at some distance, I determined, as we were well supplied for the excursion, to embrace the advantage of so favorable an opportunity of keeping the larboard shore on board, and of examining such inlets as might be found leading to the left; that, in the event of Mr. Puget having been unable to accomplish the task assigned him, our survey might be completed without another expedition into this region. With the assistance of the strong tide, we rapidly passed through a fair navigable channel, near half a league wide, with soundings from 24 to 30 fathoms, free from any appearance of shoals, rocks, or other interruptions. The eastern shore was found nearly straight and compact; but on the western, three wide openings were seen, whose terminations were not distinguishable; and the strength with which the tide flowed into the two northernmost, induced us to consider them as very extensive.

Having advanced in a direction S. 32 W. about three leagues from the south, or inner point of entrance, into an opening, situated in latitude 47° 19½′, longitude 237° 42′, we halted about eight in the evening for the night, on a small island, lying about a mile from the eastern shore. The general character of the situation in which we had now arrived, indicated it to be a continuation of the main branch of the inlet, we had been thus long navigating. The insular appearance of its western side, the rapidity of the flood tide, and its increasing width, gave us reason to suppose we should find it still more extensive. Whilst employed in arranging our matters for the night, we discovered, coming out of the southernmost opening, two small vessels, which, at first, were taken for Indian canoes, but, on using our glasses, they were considered to be our two boats. The evening was cloudy; and, closing in very soon, prevented a positive decision. The original idea was, however, somewhat confirmed on firing two muskets, which were not answered.

During the night, we had some rain, with a fresh gale from the S. E. which abated by the morning; the rain still continued, but not so violently as to prevent our proceeding. At four o’clock on Sunday morning, the 27th, we again embarked, and steered about S. W. by S.; in which direction the inlet seemed to stretch to some distance; and the appearance of the southern land gave rise to an opinion of its terminating in a river. The space we had so considered was, by seven o’clock, proved to be a low swampy compact shore, forming the southern extremity of the inlet in this direction, about two leagues from our last resting place. The inlet here terminated in an expansive though shallow bay, across which a flat of sand extended upwards of a mile from its shores; on which was lying an immense quantity of drift wood, consisting chiefly of very large trees. The country behind for some distance, was low, then rose gradually to a moderate height; and, like the eastern shores of the inlet, was covered with wood, and diversified with pleasant inequalities of hill and dale, though not enriched with those imaginary parks and pleasure grounds we had been accustomed to behold nearer to the sea coast; the whole presenting one uninterrupted wilderness.

From hence the direction of the inlet was about N. W. by N. still preserving a considerable width; the western shore appearing to be formed by a group of islands. Our progress was a little retarded by the rain in the forenoon; but, about mid-day the clouds dispersed, though not sufficiently early to procure an observation for the latitude. We had now reached a point on the larboard shore, where the inlet was again divided into two other large branches, one leading to the south-westward, the other towards the north. As my plan was to pursue the examination of the larboard shore, the south-west branch became our first object. This we found divided into two narrow channels, leading to the southward, with the appearance of two small coves to the northward. Up the westernmost of the former, about six miles, we took up our abode for the night, which was serene and pleasant.

Early in the morning, Monday 28th, we again started, and soon found the channel to terminate about a league from the place where we had slept the night before, as the rest had done, in low swampy ground, with a shallow sandy bank extending to some distance into the channel. Here we met, as had been frequently the case, a few miserable Indians in their temporary habitations; these either had nothing to dispose of, or were not inclined to have intercourse with us; the latter seemed most probable, as our visit was not attended with that cordial reception we had generally experienced. This however might have been occasioned by our having disturbed them unusually early from their rest; we made them some presents which they accepted very coolly, and having satisfied ourselves with the extent of the inlet in this direction we returned, and about nine o’clock landed to breakfast about two miles within the main entrance of the south-west branch. We left behind us to the westward the appearance of two or three small islands or points, that might form similar inlets to those we had already examined, leading to the south. These could be of little extent, as scarcely any visible tide was found in the narrowest parts.

From the length of time also that the other boats had been absent previous to our departure from the ships, together with the appearance and direction of the inlet, I entertained little doubt that the greater part of what we had seen, as also that which we were now leaving unexplored, had undergone the examination of Mr. Puget and Mr. Whidbey. This induced me to return on board, considering we were now passing our time to little purpose; and as the branch of the main inlet before us stretching to the northward, presented every prospect of communicating with some of those we had passed on Saturday evening, we pursued that route. The situation we quitted this morning, according to my survey, was in latitude 47° 3′, longitude 237° 18′, about 17 leagues from the sea coast of New Albion, towards which, from the moderate height of the country, there could be little doubt of an easy intercourse by land. About noon we landed on a point of the eastern shore, whose latitude is 47° 15½′, longitude 237° 17½′. From hence we proceeded with a pleasant southerly gale, to ascertain if any communication existed, as we had before conjectured. The further we advanced the more doubtful it became, until at length, about three leagues north of the above point, it terminated like all the other channels in a shallow flat before a low swampy bog. Here we dined, and about four in the afternoon set out on our return by the way we had come, purposing to stop for the night at a cove a little to the south of the point we were upon at noon, where we arrived about nine in the evening. Mr. Johnstone, who had kept along the western shore in order to look into a small opening we had passed in sailing down, had the advantage by being on the weather shore, and had arrived a short time before us. He informed me the opening was very narrow, and could extend but a little way before it joined that which we had quitted this morning. Whilst he was on shore for the purpose of taking the necessary angles, a deer came down to the beach, which Mr. Le Mesurier, the gentleman who had attended him in the boat, fired at, and fortunately killed. It proved to be a very fine buck, and afforded our people a good fresh meal, which was some compensation for the disappointment we experienced in not finding a passage home by the route we had lately pursued.

About day-break, as usual, on Tuesday morning the 29th, we again resumed our voyage towards the ships, which were now distant about 45 miles. Towards noon we landed on the north point of entrance into the second opening we had passed on Saturday evening; the latitude of which is 47° 15½′. The strength of the ebb tide facilitated our progress, and our conjectures were soon proved to have been well founded in this being the same inlet, which I had directed the other party to examine. We were carried with great rapidity for some time up the branch leading to the northward, and through this channel we arrived in the evening on board, without seeing any other opening leading to the westward. The land composing the eastern shore of this channel, and the western shore of that we had pursued on Saturday morning, was now ascertained to be the most extensive island we had yet met with in our several examinations of this coast; which after my friend Captain Vashon of the navy, I have distinguished by the name of Vashon’s Island.

Late on the preceding Saturday night, or rather on Sunday morning, our other party had returned. It was them we had seen the first evening of our excursion from the island; and they very distinctly saw our fire; but as they did not hear the report of the muskets, concluded it a fire of the natives, not having the least idea of any of our boats being in that neighbourhood. They had explored all those parts of the inlet we had passed by, and found the three openings we left unexamined, the first afternoon, leading to the westward, to be channels dividing that shore into three islands; and those we had not attended to on Monday morning formed two small branches leading to the S. W.; the westernmost of which extends to the latitude 47° 6′, about two leagues to the westward of our researches in that direction; that in which the deer was shot communicated with the S. W. branch of the inlet by a very narrow channel. They had also passed the opening we had pursued leading towards mount Rainier; but agreeably to my directions had not prosecuted its examination; the termination of every other opening in the land they had ascertained. Thus by our joint efforts, we had completely explored every turning of this extensive inlet; and to commemorate Mr. Puget’s exertions, the south extremity of it I named Puget’s Sound.

The Chatham had sailed on Monday, and Mr. Whidbey had departed in the Discovery’s launch for the purpose of carrying into effect the orders I had left with Mr. Broughton.

Mr. Puget had little more to communicate respecting his late expedition than what had fallen under my own observation, excepting the disorderly behaviour of an Indian tribe he had met with at some distance up the first arm leading to the westward within the narrows, whose conduct had materially differed from that of the natives in general; and in particular from that of a party consisting of about twenty natives whom they had before seen in that route, and who had behaved with their usual friendship and civility. In this arm they found the shores in general low and well wooded. About eight in the evening, attended by some of the natives in two canoes, they landed for the night. These people could not be invited nearer our party than about an hundred yards, where they remained attentive to all the operations until the tents were pitched, when it became necessary to discharge some loaded muskets, the noise of which they heard without any apparent surprize, and exclaimed poo! after every report. They soon afterwards paddled away to the westward. The next morning Mr. Puget proceeded up the arm, which took a N. E. direction about a mile wide, narrowing as they advanced to one fourth of that width; the soundings were found regular from eight to thirteen fathoms. In this situation they saw a canoe making towards them, on which they rested on their oars to wait its approach. The canoe suddenly stopped, and no offers of presents, nor signs of friendly inclinations, could induce the Indians to venture near the boat. In order to remove their apprehensions, Mr. Puget fastened some medals, copper, and trinkets, to a piece of wood which he left floating on the water; and when the boat was at a sufficient distance, the Indians picked it up. After repeating this twice or thrice they ventured, though not without some trepidation, alongside the boats. In their persons they seemed more robust than the generality of the inhabitants; most of them had lost their right eye, and were much pitted with the small pox. They now attended the boats for a short time, and having received some additional presents, returned to the shore. The whole of their conduct exhibited much suspicion and distrust. When any question was endeavoured to be put to them, they replied by poo! poo! pointing at the same time to a small island on which the party had breakfasted, and where some birds had been shot. They seemed well acquainted with the value of iron and copper, but would not dispose of their weapons, or any other article in exchange for either. About noon the party landed to dine; and whilst they were preparing to haul the seine before a fresh water brook, six canoes were seen paddling hastily round the point of the cove they were in, and directing their course towards the boats. The suspicious behaviour of those whom they had parted with in the morning, rendered it highly expedient that they should be upon their guard against any hostile design of these people; on whose approach, a line on the beach was drawn, to separate the two parties from each other; which was readily understood, and obeyed. They now divided their numbers into two sets, one remaining on shore with their bows and quivers, the other retiring to their canoes, where they quietly seated themselves.

Thus, with every appearance of good order being established, the officers went to dinner, on an elevated spot a few yards from the water side, where the crews were dining in their respective boats, and in readiness to act in case of any alarm. On a seventh canoe joining the Indian party, those on the beach immediately embarked; and the whole number, amounting to twenty-four persons, evidently entered into a consultation, during which they frequently pointed to those in the boats, as well as to the officers on the hill. This conduct tended to increase the suspicions that their inclinations were otherwise than friendly, however imprudent they might deem it, on the present moment, to carry their intentions into execution. But as our party could not be surprized, and as they were ready to act immediately on the defensive, Mr. Puget and the other gentlemen did not consider their situation alarming, and preferred quietly finishing their repast, to that of indicating any signs of distrust or apprehension, by a precipitate retreat. Towards the conclusion of their conference, three of their canoes were stealing near to the boats; but, on finding they were discovered by the officers, instantly returned. At this time, an eighth canoe joined the party; on which all of them paddled to the beach, jumped on shore and strung their bows. This was manifestly preparing for an attack, as they had not ever been seen, on any former occasion, with their bows strung. The very man who appeared the principal in the canoe, they had met in the morning, and with whom so much trouble was taken to obtain his good opinion, now seemed the leader of this party; and, with an arrow across his bow in readiness for immediate use, advanced towards the station of the officers, whilst others of the party were moving that way. Such measures however were prudently resorted to, without proceeding to extremities, as obliged them all to retreat to the line of separation, where they again held a close and long consultation; and our gentlemen having now no object to detain them on shore, they re-embarked, leaving the Indians at the line of separation, sharpening their arrows and spears on stones, apparently much inclined, though irresolute, to attempt hostilities. In this undecided state of their minds, Mr. Puget thought it might answer a good purpose to fire a swivel, shotted; the effect of which, might teach them to respect, hereafter, our powers of defence, and induce them, on the present occasion, to prefer a pacific deportment, and preserve the lives of many, that must have been lost, had they been so injudicious as to have commenced an attack. Although, on the report of the gun, or the distant effect of the shot, which was fired over the water, not the least visible astonishment or apprehension was expressed, yet, the measure was almost instantly attended with every expected good consequence. Their bows were soon unstrung; and instead of their menacing a combat, their weapons became articles of traffic, in common with other trifles they had to dispose of, for copper, buttons, knives, beads, and other ornaments; in which friendly intercourse, they accompanied the boats until towards the evening, when they peaceably took their leave, and returned to their home.

From Mr. Puget I likewise understood, that, in the course of his excursion, himself and party had visited, and had received the visits of several other tribes of Indians, whose behaviour had been uniformly civil, courteous, and friendly. Why this party, whose unfriendly intentions were too evident to be mistaken, should have been induced to assume, without the least provocation, a character so diametrically opposite to that which, in every other instance, seemed to govern their general conduct, is certainly very mysterious, and renders the foregoing an extraordinary circumstance, for which it is difficult to account.

The country we had mutually explored, did not appear, to either party, from our transient view of it, materially to differ from that which has already been described, either in its several productions from the soil, or in its general appearance of fertility. It did not, however, possess that beautiful variety of landscape; being an almost impenetrable wilderness of lofty trees, rendered nearly impassable by the underwood, which uniformly encumbers the surface.

By the termination of the western range of snowy mountains in their southern direction, taking place considerably to the north-westward, and the more elevated land intercepting the view of such mountains as may extend from the eastern range, southward of mount Rainier, we were presented with more than the whole southern horizon of land moderately high, extending as far as the eye could reach, diversified by eminences and vallies, affording a probability of an easy intercourse by land with the sea coast; where some places of shelter for small vessels may possibly still be found, which, in the event of an establishment being formed, would prove highly advantageous.

The scarcity of water has before been mentioned as the only disadvantage that the interior country seemed to labour under; but in Mr. Puget’s survey, a greater supply of water was found than in the inlets and bays that underwent my own particular examination. The country had also been considered by us as nearly destitute of inhabitants; but this opinion we found to be erroneous, from the other party having, by accident, fallen in with near 150 Indians, and having seen several deserted villages.

The point near our present station, forming the north point of the bay, hitherto called the Village point, I have distinguished by the name of Restoration Point, having celebrated that memorable event, whilst at anchor under it; and from the result of my observations made on the spot, it is situated in latitude 47° 30′, longitude 237° 46′. During our stay the tides were observed to be materially affected, by the direction or force of the winds, not only in respect to their rise and fall, but as to the time of high water. The former seldom exceeded seven or eight feet: and the latter generally took place about 4^h 10′ after the moon passed the meridian. The variation of the compass, by six sets of azimuths taken on board, differing from 18° to 22°, gave the mean result of 19° 36′ east variation.

Nothing occurring to detain us, on Wednesday morning, the 30th, with a pleasant southerly breeze, we directed our course to the opening under the examination of Mr. Broughton; the entrance of which lies from Restoration point, N. 20 E. five leagues distant. The breeze, as was usual, dying away, we advanced very slowly; towards noon, it was succeeded by a N. W. wind, accompanied with the flood tide, so that, by the time we had worked up the opening, the ebb tide was returning not only with great strength, but attended by a sort of counter tide, or under tow, that so affected the ship, as to render her almost unmanageable, notwithstanding we had a fresh breeze, and were assisted in working in by our boats. Having advanced about three miles within the entrance, which we found about half a league across, and, in the evening, seeing no appearance of the Chatham, a gun was fired, which was immediately answered from behind a point of land, on the starboard, or eastern shore, where, soon afterwards, we saw the Chatham bearing a light at her mast-head for our guidance; and, though within the distance of two miles, it was near midnight before we anchored in 32 fathoms water, about a cable’s length from her; not having been able to gain soundings with 110 fathoms of line, until we reached this station.

The next morning, Thursday 31st, we found ourselves about a cable’s length from the shore, in a capacious sound; whose entrance bore by compass from S. 2 W. to S. 30 W., about six miles from us, from whence it extended in a true N. N. E. direction. To the north was a high round island, bearing from N. 18 W. to N. 33 W.; on each side of which an opening was seen stretching to the northward. These openings were separated by a high narrow slip of land, which also appeared to be insular. The eastern side of the sound formed a deep bay, apparently bounded by solid compact land of a moderate height.

Mr. Broughton informed me, he had navigated the east side of the round island in the brig, and had examined the eastern shore of the sound, which was, as it appeared to be, a compact shore. Mr. Whidbey, in our launch, accompanied by Lieutenant Hanson in the Chatham’s, had, on the 29th, been dispatched to the two openings to the northward, with directions to examine the right hand, or easternmost, first; and, on finding its termination, to return with such information to the Chatham, before they proceeded to visit the other; that, in the event of the Discovery’s arrival previous to their return, the vessels might follow them in such pursuit, observing to keep on the eastern shore until they should find it divided into two branches. This being the third day of their absence, it was concluded they had found the easternmost opening to be of considerable extent; in consequence of which I determined to follow them, but the weather being calm and gloomy, with some rain, we were prevented moving. On a low point of land near the ship, I observed the latitude to be 47° 57½′, longitude 237° 58′. A light favorable breeze sprang up shortly after noon; but before the anchor was at the ship’s bows it again fell calm, with much rain, which obliged us to remain quiet. The Chatham however weighed, and being soon off the bank, which does not reach a quarter of a mile from the shore, was instantly out of soundings, and was driven by the ebb tide until nine in the evening to the entrance of the sound. At this time a fresh southerly breeze springing up we weighed, and directed our course northward, to pass on the western side of the round island.

We had now been stationary upwards of 20 hours, and during that time the tide or current had constantly sat out; the like was observed by Mr. Broughton during his continuance in the same place. The southerly wind, attended by a heavy fall of rain, soon became so faint, that by eleven at night we had proceeded only five miles. Here we were obliged to anchor in twenty fathoms water, hard sandy bottom, near half way between the island and the point that divides the two openings, which are about a league asunder.

About six in the morning of Friday, June the June 1792 first, assisted by the flood tide, and a light south-easterly wind, we proceeded up the eastern arm; the entrance of which is about a mile wide, with soundings from 75 to 80 fathoms, dark sandy bottom. The weather being rainy, calm, or attended with light variable winds, most of the forenoon we made little progress. During this interval the Chatham gained some advantage of us, and about noon proceeded with a favorable breeze from the southward up the opening. The haze which had obscured the land all the fore part of the day, gave the inlet an extensive appearance, without any visible termination: but on the fog’s dispersing, it seemed to be closed in every direction, excepting that by which we had entered; but as soundings could not be gained with fifty fathoms of line, we continued our course up the inlet until about two o’clock, at which time we had advanced six miles from the entrance; and being perfectly satisfied that the inlet finished in the manner common to all we had hitherto examined, the signal was made for the Chatham to bring up, and we shortened sail accordingly. In a few minutes she was discovered to be aground, and had made the signal for assistance. On this we stood towards her, and anchored about a mile from her in 20 fathoms water, sandy bottom, and about half that distance from the eastern shore, which was the nearest land. Our boats were immediately sent to her relief; but as the tide subsided very fast, they could only lay out anchors for heaving her off on the returning flood. Although the upper part of the inlet had appeared to be perfectly closed, yet it was not impossible a channel might exist on the western or opposite shore, which by interlocking points might have been invisible to us on board, and through which our absent party might have found a passage. To ascertain this fact, I went in the yawl, and found the depth of water suddenly to decrease on leaving the ship to ten, seven, and two fathoms. We continued our researches in one and two fathoms water to the opposite side, where we landed nearly abreast of the ship, and found the shores of the inlet to be straight, compact, and about two miles apart. In several places we attempted to land near the upper end, but found ourselves as often repulsed by a flat sandy shoal, which extended directly across. The land there seemed of a swampy nature, was thinly wooded, and through it was the appearance of a shallow rivulet falling into the sea; further back it was more elevated, and the surrounding country being covered with a similar growth of timber to that before noticed, made us conclude the land to be equally fertile.

This examination perplexed me extremely to account for an error that had certainly taken place. For under the conviction that this inlet had been found navigable by the boats, I should not have hesitated to have prosecuted my way hither in the ship at midnight, in consequence of the party not having made any report to the contrary. This could only be attributed to a misunderstanding of the orders given, or to some unfortunate accident having befallen them. The latter we had no reason to apprehend, unless from an attack of the Indians, which was not very likely to have happened, as we saw not the least indication of either permanent or temporary habitations. I called on board the Chatham on my return, and was happy to understand that there was little probability of her receiving any injury, having grounded on a muddy bank; and that there was every prospect of her floating off the next tide. In sounding to lay out their anchors, it became evident that in the very direction in which they had sailed to their then station, they had run upwards of half a mile on this bank in two fathoms water, in consequence of the unpardonable negligence of the man at the lead, who had announced false soundings, and for which he was deservedly punished. She was hove off about midnight, and anchored near us without having received the least damage.

The Chatham being in readiness by ten the next morning, Saturday the 2d, with a light northerly breeze, attended with gloomy weather and some rain, we directed our route back by the way we had come, and it was not until three o’clock that we reached the sound, where we again anchored in fifty fathoms, a quarter of a mile from the eastern shore, and about six times that distance to the eastward of the arm we had quitted, which forms an excellent harbour, well sheltered from all winds; but during our short stay there we saw no appearance of any fresh water. Here our position was before a small bay, into which flowed two excellent streams, but these were so nearly on a level with the sea, that it became necessary either to procure the water at low tide, or at some distance up the brook; which latter was easily effected, as our boats were admitted to where the fresh water fell from the elevated land. In this situation the observed latitude was 48° 2½′, longitude 237° 57½′, being six miles S. S. E. from our last anchorage.

As there was little doubt now remaining that the party had proceeded to the examination of the other inlet, and as the weather was thick and hazy with some rain, a gun was now and then fired to direct them to the ships in case they should be on their return.

In the course of the afternoon we were tolerably successful with the seine, as we had also been in the above harbour, in taking a quantity of fish similar to those we procured in port Discovery. About eight in the evening we had the satisfaction of hearing our gun answered; and at nine the boats safely returned to the vessels.

Mr. Whidbey informed me, that on his return from the survey of the port we had quitted in the morning, he saw the Chatham working off the east end of the round island at so little distance, that he concluded the boats could not have escaped the observation of those on board; and under that impression, and his anxiety to forward this tedious service, he had availed himself of a favorable southerly wind, and flood tide, to prosecute his examination of the other branch, whose entrance he had found something wider than the harbour we had left, having sixty fathoms depth of water, with a soft muddy bottom. Its general direction led N. N. W. Having advanced about four miles, they found, on a low projecting point of the western shore, a village containing a numerous tribe of the natives. But as my orders, as well as the general inclination of the officers, were to prevent by all possible means the chance of any misunderstanding, it was the uniform practice to avoid landing in the presence of considerable numbers; and as it was now the dinner time of our party, Mr. Whidbey very prudently made choice of the opposite shore, in the hope of making a quiet meal without the company of the Indians. Having reached the place where they intended to land, they were met by upwards of two hundred, some in their canoes with their families, and others walking along the shore, attended by about forty dogs in a drove, shorn close to the skin like sheep. Notwithstanding their numbers, it was important to land for the purpose of taking angles; and they had the satisfaction of being received on shore with every mark of cordial friendship. Mr. Whidbey however, thought it prudent to remain no longer in their society than was absolutely necessary; and having finished the business for which he had landed, he instantly embarked, and continued his route up the inlet until the evening, when he landed for the night about nine miles within its entrance. In the morning they again pursued their inquiry, and soon after they had landed to breakfast, they were visited by a large canoe full of Indians, who were immediately followed by an hundred more of the natives, bringing with them the mats for covering their temporary houses, and, seemingly, every other article of value belonging to them.

On landing, which they did without the least hesitation, their behaviour was courteous and friendly in the highest degree. A middle-aged man, to all appearance the chief or principal person of the party, was foremost in shewing marks of the greatest hospitality; and perceiving our party were at breakfast, presented them with water, roasted roots, dried fish, and other articles of food. This person, in return, received some presents, and others were distributed amongst the ladies and some of the party. The chief, for so we must distinguish him, had two hangers, one of Spanish, the other of English manufacture, on which he seemed to set a very high value. The situation of the spot where they had landed was delightful; the shores on each side the inlet being composed of a low country, pleasingly diversified by hills, dales, extensive verdant lawns, and clear spaces in the midst of the forest, which, together with the cordial reception they had met from the natives, induced Mr. Whidbey to continue his examination on shore; on this occasion he was accompanied by the chief and several of the party, who conducted themselves with the greatest propriety; though with no small degree of civil curiosity in examining his clothes, and expressing a great desire to be satisfied as to the colour of the skin they covered; making signs, that his hands and face were painted white, instead of being black or red like their own; but when convinced of their mistake by opening his waistcoat, their astonishment was inexpressible. From these circumstances, and the general tenor of their behaviour, Mr. Whidbey concluded they had not before seen any Europeans, though, from the different articles they possessed, it was evident a communication had taken place; probably by the means of distinct trading tribes. The people, who had been met in that inlet removing with their families, and all their moveable property, were not unlikely to be of this commercial description; particularly, as their voyage was towards the sea coast, where, in some convenient situation near to the general resort of Europeans, they might fix their abode until an opportunity was afforded them to barter their commodities for the more valuable productions of Europe, which are afterwards disposed of to the inhabitants of the interior country at a very exorbitant price. This circumstance tends, in some degree, to corroborate an opinion hazarded on a former occasion to this effect.

On the boats being ordered on shore to receive Mr. Whidbey and the gentlemen who had attended him in his walk, the launch grounded, which was no sooner perceived by the Indian chief, than he was foremost in using every exertion, to shove her off. This being effected, and the gentlemen embarked, most of these good people took their leave, and seemed to part with their newly acquired friends with great reluctance. The chief, and a few others, accompanied our party, until they had advanced about fourteen miles from the entrance, when they, very civilly, took their departure; here the arm branched off from its former direction of about N. N. W., to the westward, and N. E. The latter being the object of their pursuit, they soon arrived off another extensive and populous village, whence several canoes came off with not less than seventy of the natives in them; and several others were seen coming from the different parts of the shore. Those who approached the boats conducted themselves with the utmost propriety, shewing, by repeated invitations to their dwellings, the greatest hospitality, and making signs that they had plenty of food to bestow. In these intreaties the ladies were particularly earnest, and expressed much chagrin and mortification that their offers of civility were declined. As the boats sailed past the village those in the canoes returned to the shore.

The direction which the land took to the N. E. conducted them to a considerable branch whose outer points lie from each other N. 20 W., about a league asunder. From its eastern shore a shallow flat of sand, on which are some rocky islets and rocks, runs out, until within half a mile of the western shore, forming a narrow channel, navigated by them in nearly a N. N. W. direction, for about three leagues. The depth, at its entrance, was twenty fathoms; but gradually decreased to four, as they advanced up the channel which is formed by the western shore, and the sand bank, continuing with great regularity, about half a mile wide, to the latitude of 48° 24′, longitude 237° 45′, where it then ceased to be navigable for vessels of any burthen, in consequence of the rocks and overfalls from three to twenty fathoms deep, and a very irregular and disagreeable tide. On meeting these impediments, the party returned, with intention of exploring the opening leading to the westward. As they re-passed the village they were again visited by their friendly chief, attended by two or three canoes only, who presented them with a most welcome supply of very fine small fish which, in many respects, resembled, and most probably were, a species of the smelt. He accepted, with apparent pleasure, an invitation into the launch, where he remained with Mr. Whidbey until the evening, ate and drank of such things as were offered with the greatest confidence, and on being made acquainted that the party was going to rest, bad them farewell with every mark of respect and friendship.

In the morning, the examination of the western branch was pursued, and found to terminate in a very excellent and commodious cove or harbour, with regular soundings from 10 to 20 fathoms, good holding ground. Its western extent situated in latitude 48° 17′, longitude 237° 38′, is not more than a league from the eastern shore of the main inlet, within the straits. On each point of the harbour, which in honour of a particular friend I call Penn’s Cove, was a deserted village; in one of which were found several sepulchres formed exactly like a sentry box. Some of them were open, and contained the skeletons of many young children tied up in baskets; the smaller bones of adults were likewise noticed, but no one of the limb bones could here be found, which gave rise to an opinion that these, by the living inhabitants of the neighbourhood, were appropriated to useful purposes, such as pointing their arrows, spears, or other weapons. The surrounding country, for several miles in most points of view, presented a delightful prospect, consisting chiefly of spacious meadows, elegantly adorned with clumps of trees; amongst which the oak bore a very considerable proportion, in size from four to six feet in circumference. In these beautiful pastures, bordering on an expansive sheet of water, the deer were seen playing about in great numbers. Nature had here provided the well-stocked park, and wanted only the assistance of art to constitute that desirable assemblage of surface, which is so much sought in other countries, and only to be acquired by an immoderate expence in manual labour. The soil principally consisted of a rich, black vegetable mould, lying on a sandy or clayey substratum; the grass, of an excellent quality, grew to the height of three feet, and the ferns, which, in the sandy soils, occupied the clear spots, were nearly twice as high. The country in the vicinity of this branch of the sea is, according to Mr. Whidbey’s representation, the finest we had yet met with, notwithstanding the very pleasing appearance of many others; its natural productions were luxuriant in the highest degree, and it was, by no means, ill supplied with streams of fresh water. The number of its inhabitants he estimated at about six hundred, which I should suppose would exceed the total of all the natives we had before seen; the other parts of the sound did not appear, by any means, so populous, as we had been visited by one small canoe only, in which were five of the natives, who civilly furnished us with some small fish. The character and appearance of their several tribes here seen did not seem to differ in any material respect from each other, or from those we have already had occasion to mention.

A fortnight had now been dedicated to the examination of this inlet; which I have distinguished by the name of Admiralty Inlet: we had still to return about forty miles through this tedious inland navigation, before we could arrive on a new field of enquiry. The broken appearance of the region before us, and the difficulties we had already encountered in tracing its various shores, incontestibly proved, that the object of our voyage could alone be accomplished by very slow degrees. Perfectly satisfied with the arduousness of the task in which we were engaged, and the progress we were likely to make, I became anxiously solicitous to move the instant an opportunity should serve. The two following days were however unfavorable to that purpose, and after the great fatigue our people had lately undergone, were well appropriated to holidays. Sunday, the 3d, all hands were employed in fishing with tolerably good success, or in taking a little recreation on shore; and on Monday, the 4th, they were served as good a dinner as we were able to provide them, with double allowance of grog to drink the King’s health, it being the anniversary of His Majesty’s birth; on which auspicious day, I had long since designed to take formal possession of all the countries we had lately been employed in exploring, in the name of, and for His Britannic Majesty, his heirs and successors.

To execute this purpose, accompanied by Mr. Broughton and some of the officers, I went on shore about one o’clock, pursuing the usual formalities which are generally observed on such occasions, and under the discharge of a royal salute from the vessels, took possession accordingly of the coast, from that part of New Albion, in the latitude of 39° 20′ north, and longitude 236° 26′ east, to the entrance of this inlet of the sea, said to be the supposed straits of Juan de Fuca; as likewise all the coast islands, &c. within the said straits, as well on the northern as on the southern shores; together with those situated in the interior sea we had discovered, extending from the said straits, in various directions, between the north-west, north, east, and southern quarters; which interior sea I have honoured with the name of The Gulf of Georgia, and the continent binding the said gulf, and extending southward to the 45th degree of north latitude, with that off New Georgia, in honour of His present Majesty. This branch of Admiralty inlet obtained the name of Possession Sound; its western arm, after Vice-Admiral Sir Alan Gardner, I distinguish by the name of Port Gardner, and its smaller eastern one by that of Port Susan.

A light breeze springing up from the N. W. about seven in the morning of Tuesday the 5th of June, we sailed down Possession sound. This wind brought with it, as usual, serene and pleasant weather. Whilst we were passing gently on, the chief, who had shewn so much friendly attention to Mr. Whidbey and his party, with several of his friends came on board, and presented us with some fruit and dried fish. He entered the ship with some reluctance, but was no sooner on deck than he seemed perfectly reconciled; and with much inquisitive earnestness regarded the surrounding objects, the novelty of which seemed to fill his mind with surprise and admiration. The unaffected hospitable attention he had shewn our people, was not likely upon this occasion to be forgotten. After he had visited the different parts of the ship, at which he expressed the greatest astonishment, I presented him and his friends with an assortment of such things as they esteemed to be most valuable; and then they took their leave, seemingly highly pleased with their reception.

The N. W. wind was unfavorable after we were clear of Possession sound, and obliged us to work to windward, which discovered to us a shoal lying in a bay, just to the westward of the north point of entrance into the sound, a little distance from the shore. It shews itself above water, and is discoverable by the soundings gradually decreasing to ten, seven, and five fathoms, and cannot be considered as any material impediment to the navigation of the bay. As the ebb tide was greatly in our favor, I did not wait to examine it further, but continued plying to windward until midnight, when being unable to gain any ground against the strength of the flood, we anchored in 22 fathoms water about half a mile from the western shore of Admiralty inlet, and about half way between Oak cove and Marrow-Stone point; the Chatham having anchored before us some distance a-stern.

The ebb again returned at the rate of about three miles per hour; but as it was calm we did not move until the N. W. wind set in about seven in the morning of Wednesday the 6th, when we worked out of the inlet.

Having reached its entrance, we were met by several canoes from the westward. Some of the headmost, when they had advanced near to the ship made signs of peace, and came alongside, giving us to understand that their friends behind wished to do the same, and requested we would shorten sail for that purpose. They seemed very solicitous to dissuade us from proceeding to the northward by very vociferous and vehement arguments; but as their language was completely unintelligible, and their wishes not appertaining to the object of our pursuit, so far as we were enabled to comprehend their meaning, we treated their advice with perfect indifference, on which they departed, joined the rest of their countrymen, and proceeded up Admiralty inlet, whose north point, called by me Point Partridge, is situated in latitude 48° 16′, longitude 237° 31′, and is formed by a high white sandy cliff, having one of the verdant lawns on either side of it. Passing at the distance of about a mile from this point we very suddenly came on a small space of ten fathom water, but immediately again increased our depth to 20 and 30 fathoms. After advancing a few miles along the eastern shore of the gulf, we found no effect either from the ebb or flood tide, and the wind being light and variable from the northward, at three in the afternoon we were obliged to anchor in 20 fathoms water, sandy bottom.

In this situation New Dungeness bore by compass S. 54 W.; the east point of Protection island S. 15 W.; the west point of Admiralty inlet, which after my much esteemed friend Captain George Wilson of the navy, I distinguished by the name of Point Wilson, S. 35 E. situated in latitude 48° 10′, longitude 237° 31′; the nearest shore east, two leagues distant; a low sandy island, forming at its west end a low cliff, above which some dwarf trees are produced from N. 26 W. to N. 40 W.; and the proposed station for the vessels during the examination of the continental shore by the boats, which, from Mr. Broughton who had visited it, obtained the name of Strawberry Bay, N. 11 W. at the distance of about six leagues, situated in a region apparently much broken and divided by water. Here we remained until seven in the evening; we then weighed, but with so little wind, that after having drifted to the southward of our former station, we were obliged again to anchor until six the next morning, Thursday the 7th, when we made an attempt to proceed, but were soon again compelled to become stationary near our last situation.

On reflecting that the summer was now fast advancing, and that the slow progress of the vessels occasioned too much delay, I determined, rather than lose the advantages which the prevailing favorable weather now afforded for boat expeditions, to dispatch Mr. Puget in the launch, and Mr. Whidbey in the cutter, with a week’s provisions, in order that the shores should be immediately explored to the next intended station of the vessels, whither they would proceed as soon as circumstances would allow. In this arrangement I was well aware, it could not be considered judicious to part with our launch, whilst the ship remained in a transitory unfixed state in this unknown and dangerous navigation; yet she was so essentially necessary to the protection of our detached parties, that I resolved to encounter some few difficulties on board, rather than suffer the delay, or lose so valuable an opportunity for the prosecution of the survey. In directing this, orders were given not to examine any openings to the northward, beyond Strawberry bay, but to determine the boundaries of the continental shore leading to the north and eastward, as far as might be practicable to its parallel, whither they were to resort after performing the task assigned. On this service they departed, and directed their course for the first opening on the eastern shore about 3 or 4 leagues distant, bearing by compass from the ship N. by E.

Having repaired to the low sandy island already noticed, for the purpose of taking some angles, I found some rocks lying on its western side nearly three quarters of a mile from its shores; and that the eastern part of it was formed by a very narrow low spit of land, over which the tide nearly flowed. Its situation is in latitude 48° 24′, longitude 237° 26½′. Amongst the various bearings that it became necessary to take here, were those of the two remarkably high snowy mountains so frequently mentioned. Mount Baker bore N. 63 E.; mount Rainier S. 27 E.; and from a variety of observations purposely made for fixing their respective situations, it appeared that mount Baker was in latitude 48° 39′, longitude 238° 20′, and mount Rainier in latitude 47° 3′, longitude 238° 21′. To the southward of these were now seen two other very lofty, round, snowy mountains, lying apparently in the same north and south direction, or nearly so; but we were unable to ascertain their positive situation. The summits of these were visible only at two or three stations in the southern parts of Admiralty inlet; they appeared to be covered with perpetual snow as low down as we were enabled to see, and seemed as if they rose from an extensive plain of low country.

When due attention is paid to the range of snowy mountains that stretch to the southward from the base of mount Rainier, a probability arises of the same chain being continued, so as to connect the whole in one barrier along the coast, at uncertain distances from its shores; although intervals may exist in the ridge where the mountains may not be sufficiently elevated to have been discernible from our several stations. The like effect is produced by the two former mountains, whose immense height permitted their appearing very conspicuously, long before we approached sufficiently near to distinguish the intermediate range of rugged mountains that connect them, and from whose summits their bases originate.

About six in the evening, with a light breeze from the S. W. we weighed and stood to the northward; but after having advanced about 11 miles, the wind became light and obliged us to anchor about nine that evening, in 37 fathoms water, hard bottom, in some places rocky; in this situation we were detained by calms until the afternoon of the following day, Friday the 8th. Our observed latitude here, was 48° 29′, longitude 237° 29′: the country, occupying the northern horizon in all directions, appeared to be excessively broken, and insulated. Strawberry bay bore, by compass, N. 10 W. about three leagues distant; the opening on the continental shore, the first object for the examination of the detached party, with some small rocky islets before its entrance that appeared very narrow, bore, at the distance of about five miles, S. 87 E.; point Partridge S. 21 E.; the low sandy island south; the south part of the westernmost shore, which is composed of islands and rocks, S. 37 W. about two miles distant; the nearest shore was within about a mile; a very dangerous sunken rock, visible only at low tide, lies off from a low rocky point on this shore, bearing N. 79 W.; and a very unsafe cluster of small rocks, some constantly, and others visible only near low water, bore N. 15 W. about two miles and a half distant.

This country presented a very different aspect from that which we had been accustomed to behold further south. The shores now before us were composed of steep rugged rocks, whose surface varied exceedingly in respect to height, and exhibited little more than the barren rock, which in some places produced a little herbage of a dull colour, with a few dwarf trees.

With a tolerably good breeze from the north, we weighed about three in the afternoon, and with a flood tide, turned up into Strawberry bay, where, in about three hours, we anchored in 16 fathoms, fine sandy bottom. This bay is situated on the west side of an island, which, producing an abundance of upright cypress, obtained the name of Cypress Island. The bay is of small extent, and not very deep; its south point bore by compass S. 40 E.; a small islet, forming nearly the north point of the bay, round which is a clear good passage west; and the bottom of the bay east, at the distance of about three quarters of a mile. This situation, though very commodious, in respect to the shore, is greatly exposed to the winds, and sea in a S. S. E. direction.

In consequence of the wind ceasing, the Chatham, whilst endeavouring to gain this anchorage, was, by a strong flood tide, driven to the eastward of the island, where she was compelled to anchor. The next morning, Saturday 9th, I received from Mr. Broughton a letter acquainting me, that, having been obliged to anchor on a rocky bottom, on account of the strength and irregularity of the tide, their stream cable had been cut through by the rocks; and that, after several attempts to recover the anchor, the rapidity of the tide had rendered all their efforts ineffectual; and he was very apprehensive that, remaining longer in that situation, for the purpose of repeating his endeavours, might endanger the loss also of the bower anchor by which they were then riding. In reply, I desired, if the anchor could not be regained by the next slack tide, that they would desist, rather than run a risk of still greater importance.

A fine sandy beach, forming the shores of the bay, gave us the hope of procuring a good supply of fish, as the Chatham, on her former visit, had been very successful, we were however, unfortunately mistaken; the seine was repeatedly hauled, but to no effect.

The Chatham arrived in the bay on Sunday morning, the 10th, with the loss of her stream anchor; and in the afternoon the boats returned from their survey.

From the officers, I became acquainted, that the first inlet communicated with port Gardner, by a very narrow and intricate channel, which, for a considerable distance, was not forty yards in width, and abounded with rocks above and beneath the surface of the water. These impediments, in addition to the great rapidity and irregularity of the tide, rendered the passage navigable only for boats or vessels of very small burthen. This determined all the eastern shore of the gulf, from S. W. point of this passage, in latitude 48° 27′, longitude 237° 37′, to the north point of entrance into Possession sound, in latitude 47° 53′, longitude 237° 47′, to be an island, which, in its broadest part, is about ten miles across; and in consequence of Mr. Whidbey’s circumnavigation, I distinguished it by the name of Whidbey’s Island: and this northern pass, leading into port Gardner, Deception Passage.

Hence they proceeded to the examination of the continental coast leading to the northward, and entered what appeared to be a spacious sound, or opening, extending widely in three directions to the eastward of our present station. One, leading to the southward, and another, to the eastward, they examined, and found them to terminate alike in deep bays, affording good anchorage, though inconvenient communication with the shores; particularly towards the head of each bay, on account of a shallow flat of sand or mud, which met them at a considerable distance from the land. Having fixed the boundaries of the continent as far to the north as the latitude of this island, agreeably to their directions, they returned, leaving unexplored a large opening which took a northern direction, as also the space that appeared to be the main arm of the gulf, to the north-westward, where the horizon was unbounded, and its width seemed very considerable. The country they had seen to the north-east of Deception passage, is much divided by water, and bore nearly the same steril appearance with that of our present situation; excepting near the heads of the two large bays, which they had examined on the continental shore. There the land was of a moderate height, unoccupied by rocky precipices, and was well wooded with timber. In the course of this expedition, several deserted villages had been seen, and some of the natives met with, who differed not, in any material particular, as to their persons, nor in their civil and hospitable deportment, from those we had been so happy, on former occasions, to call our friends.

As our present anchorage was much exposed, and supplied us with no sort of refreshment, excepting a few small wild onions or leeks, I determined, on this information, to proceed with the vessels up the gulf, to the N. W. in quest of a more commodious situation, from whence Mr. Whidbey might be dispatched, to complete the examination of the arm which had been left unfinished, and another party, to prosecute their inquiries to the N. W. or in such other direction as the gulf might take.

With a light breeze from the S. E. about four o’clock in the morning of Monday the 11th, we quitted this station, and passed between the small island and the north point of the bay to the north-westward, through a cluster of numerous islands, rocks, and rocky islets. On Mr. Broughton’s first visit hither, he found a great quantity of very excellent strawberries, which gave it the name of Strawberry bay; but, on our arrival, the fruit season was passed. The bay affords good and secure anchorage, though somewhat exposed; yet, in fair weather, wood and water may be easily procured. The island of Cypress is principally composed of high rocky mountains, and steep perpendicular cliffs, which, in the centre of Strawberry bay, fall a little back, and the space between the foot of the mountains and the sea side is occupied by low marshy land, through which are several small runs of most excellent water, that find their way into the bay by oozing through the beach. It is situated in latitude 48° 36½′, longitude 237° 34′. The variation of the compass, by eighteen sets of azimuths differing from 18° to 21° taken on board, and on shore, since our departure from Admiralty inlet, gave the mean result of 19° 5′ eastwardly. The rise and fall of the tide was inconsiderable, though the stream was rapid: the ebb came from the east, and it was high water 2^h 37′ after the moon had passed the meridian.

We proceeded first to the north-eastward, passing the branch of the gulf that had been partly examined, and then directed our course to the N. W. along that which appeared a continuation of the continental shore, formed by low sandy cliffs, rising from a beach of sand and stones. The country moderately elevated, stretched a considerable distance from the N. W. round to the south-eastward, before it ascended to join the range of rugged, snowy mountains. This connected barrier, from the base of mount Baker, still continued very lofty, and appeared to extend in a direction leading to the westward of north. The soundings along the shore were regular, from 12 to 25 and 30 fathoms, as we approached, or increased our distance from, the land, which seldom exceeded two miles: the opposite side of the gulf to the south-westward, composed of numerous islands, was at the distance of about two leagues. As the day advanced, the S. E. wind gradually died away, and, for some hours, we remained nearly stationary.

In the evening, a light breeze favoring the plan I had in contemplation, we steered for a bay that presented itself, where, about six o’clock, we anchored in six fathoms water, sandy bottom, half a mile from the shore. The points of the bay bore by compass S. 32 W. and N. 72 W.; the westernmost part of that which we considered to be the main land west, about three leagues distant; to the south of this point appeared the principal direction of the gulf, though a very considerable arm seemed to branch from it to the north-eastward. As soon as the ship was secured, I went in a boat to inspect the shores of the bay, and found, with little trouble, a very convenient situation for our several necessary duties on shore; of which the business of the observatory was my chief object, as I much wished for a further trial of the rate of the chronometers, now that it was probable we should remain at rest a sufficient time to make the requisite observations for that purpose. Mr. Broughton received my directions to this effect, as also, that the vessels should be removed, the next morning, about a mile further up the bay to the N. E. where they would be more conveniently stationed for our several operations on shore; and as soon as the business of the observatory should acquire a degree of forwardness, Mr. Whidbey, in the Discovery’s cutter, attended by the Chatham’s launch, was to proceed to the examination of that part of the coast unexplored to the S. E.; whilst myself, in the yawl, accompanied by Mr. Puget in the launch, directed our researches up the main inlet of the gulf.

Matters thus arranged, with a week’s provision in each boat, I departed at five o’clock in the morning of Tuesday the 12th. The most northerly branch, though attracting our first attention, caused little delay; it soon terminated in two open bays; the southernmost, which is the smallest, has two small rocks lying off its south point; it extends in a circular form to the eastward, with a shoal of sand projecting some distance from its shores. This bay affords good anchorage from seven to ten fathoms water: the other is much larger, and extends to the northward; these, by noon, we had passed round, but the shoals attached to the shores of each, and particularly to those of the latter, prevented our reaching within four or five miles of their heads. The point constituting the west extremity of these bays, is that which was seen from the ship, and considered as the western part of the main land, of which it is a small portion, much elevated at the south extremity of a very low narrow peninsula; its highest part is to the S. E. formed by high white sand cliffs falling perpendicularly into the sea; from whence a shoal extends to the distance of half a mile round it, joining those of the larger bay; whilst its south-west extremity, not more than a mile in an east and west direction from the former, is one of those low projecting sandy points, with ten to seven fathoms water, within a few yards of it. From this point, situated in latitude 48° 57′, longitude 237° 20′, (which I distinguished by the name of Point Roberts, after my esteemed friend and predecessor in the Discovery) the coast takes a direction N. 28 W. and presented a task of examination to which we conceived our equipment very unequal. That which, from hence, appeared the northern extreme of the continental shore, was a low bluff point, that seemed to form the southern entrance into an extensive sound, bearing N. 25 W. with broken land stretching about 5° farther to the westward. Between this direction and N. 79 W. the horizon seemed uninterrupted, excepting by the appearance of a small though very high round island, lying N. 52 W. apparently at the distance of many leagues. Having thus early examined and fixed the continental shore to the furthest point seen from the ship, I determined to prosecute our inquiries to the utmost limits that care and frugality could extend our supplies; and, having taken the necessary angles, we proceeded, but soon found our progress along the eastern or continental shore materially impeded by a shoal that extends from point Roberts N. 80 W. seven or eight miles, then stretches N. 35 W. about five or six miles further, where it takes a northerly direction towards the above low bluff point. Along the edge of this bank we had soundings from ten to one fathom, as we increased or decreased our distance from the eastern shore; to approach which all our endeavours were exerted to no purpose, until nine in the evening, when the shoal having forced us nearly into the middle of the gulf, we stood over to its western side, in order to land for the night, and to cook our provisions for the ensuing day, which being always performed by those on watch during the night, prevented any delay on that account, in the day time. As we stood to the westward, our depth soon increased to 15 fathoms, after which we gained no bottom until we reached the western shore of the gulf, where, on our arrival about one o’clock in the morning, it was with much difficulty we were enabled to land on the steep rugged rocks that compose the coast, for the purpose of cooking only, and were compelled, by this unfavorable circumstance, to remain and sleep in the boats.

At five in the morning of Wednesday the 13th, we again directed our course to the eastern shore, and landed about noon, on the above-mentioned low bluff point. This, as was suspected, formed the south point of a very extensive sound, with a small arm leading to the eastward: the space, which seemed to be its main direction, and appeared very extensive, took a northerly course. The observed latitude here was 49° 19′, longitude 237° 6′, making this point (which, in compliment to my friend Captain George Grey of the navy, was called Point Grey) seven leagues from point Roberts. The intermediate space is occupied by very low land, apparently a swampy flat, that retires several miles, before the country rises to meet the rugged snowy mountains, which we found still continuing in a direction nearly along the coast. This low flat being very much inundated, and extending behind point Roberts, to join the low land in the bay to the eastward of that point; gives its high land, when seen at a distance, the appearance of an island: this, however, is not the case, notwithstanding there are two openings between this point and point Grey. These can only be navigable for canoes, as the shoal continues along the coast to the distance of seven or eight miles from the shore, on which were lodged, and especially before these openings, logs of wood, and stumps of trees innumerable.

From point Grey we proceeded first up the eastern branch of the sound, where, about a league within its entrance, we passed to the northward of an island which nearly terminated its extent, forming a passage from ten to seven fathoms deep, not more than a cable’s length in width. This island lying exactly across the channel, appeared to form a similar passage to the south of it, with a smaller island lying before it. From these islands, the channel, in width about half a mile, continued its direction about east. Here we were met by about fifty Indians, in their canoes, who conducted themselves with the greatest decorum and civility, presenting us with several fish cooked, and undressed, of the sort already mentioned as resembling the smelt. These good people, finding we were inclined to make some return for their hospitality, shewed much understanding in preferring iron to copper.

For the sake of the company of our new friends, we stood on under an easy sail, which encouraged them to attend us some little distance up the arm. The major part of the canoes twice paddled forward, assembled before us, and each time a conference was held. Our visit and appearance were most likely the objects of their consultation, as our motions on these occasions seemed to engage the whole of their attention. The subject matter, which remained a profound secret to us, did not appear of an unfriendly nature to us, as they soon returned, and, if possible, expressed additional cordiality and respect. This sort of conduct always creates a degree of suspicion, and should ever be regarded with a watchful eye. In our short intercourse with the people of this country, we have generally found these consultations take place, whether their numbers were great or small; and though I have ever considered it prudent to be cautiously attentive on such occasions, they ought by no means to be considered as indicating at all times a positive intention of concerting hostile measures; having witnessed many of these conferences, without our experiencing afterwards any alteration in their friendly disposition. This was now the case with our numerous attendants, who gradually dispersed as we advanced from the station where we had first met them, and three or four canoes only accompanied us up a navigation which, in some places, does not exceed an hundred and fifty yards in width.

We landed for the night about half a league from the head of the inlet, and about three leagues from its entrance. Our Indian visitors remained with us until by signs we gave them to understand we were going to rest, and after receiving some acceptable articles, they retired, and by means of the same language, promised an abundant supply of fish the next day; our seine having been tried in their presence with very little success. A great desire was manifested by these people to imitate our actions, especially in the firing of a musket, which one of them performed, though with much fear and trembling. They minutely attended to all our transactions, and examined the colour of our skins with infinite curiosity. In other respects they differed little from the generality of the natives we had seen: they possessed no European commodities, or trinkets, excepting some rude ornaments apparently made from sheet copper; this circumstance, and the general tenor of their behaviour, gave us reason to conclude that we were the first people from a civilized country they had yet seen. Nor did it appear that they were nearly connected, or had much intercourse with other Indians, who traded with the European or American adventurers.

The shores in this situation were formed by steep rocky cliffs, that afforded no convenient space for pitching our tent, which compelled us to sleep in the boats. Some of the young gentlemen, however, preferring the stony beach for their couch, without duly considering the line of high water mark, found themselves incommoded by the flood tide, of which they were not apprized until they were nearly afloat; and one of them slept so sound, that I believe he might have been conveyed to some distance, had he not been awakened by his companions.

Perfectly satisfied with our researches in this branch of the sound, at four in the morning of Thursday the 14th, we retraced our passage in; leaving on the northern shore, a small opening extending to the northward, with two little islets before it of little importance, whilst we had a grander object in contemplation; and more particularly so, as this arm or channel could not be deemed navigable for shipping. The tide caused no stream; the colour of its water, after we had passed the island the day before, was green and perfectly clear, whereas that in the main branch of the sound, extending nearly half over the gulf, and accompanied by a rapid tide, was nearly colourless, which gave us some reason to suppose that the northern branch of the sound might possibly be discovered to terminate in a river of considerable extent.

As we passed the situation from whence the Indians had first visited us the preceding day, which is a small border of low marshy land on the northern shore, intersected by several creeks of fresh water, we were in expectation of their company, but were disappointed, owing to our travelling so soon in the morning. Most of their canoes were hauled up into the creeks, and two or three only of the natives were seen straggling about on the beach. None of their habitations could be discovered, whence we concluded that their village was within the forest. Two canoes came off as we passed the island, but our boats being under sail, with a fresh favorable breeze, I was not inclined to halt, and they almost immediately returned.

The shores of this channel, which, after Sir Harry Burrard of the navy, I have distinguished by the name of Burrard’s Channel, may be considered, on the southern side, of a moderate height, and though rocky, well covered with trees of large growth, principally of the pine tribe. On the northern side, the rugged snowy barrier, whose base we had now nearly approached, rose very abruptly, and was only protected from the wash of the sea by a very narrow border of low land. By seven o’clock we had reached the N. W. point of the channel, which forms also the south point of the main branch of the sound: this also, after another particular friend, I called Point Atkinson, situated north from point Grey, about a league distant. Here the opposite point of the entrance into the sound bore by compass west, at the distance of about three miles; and nearly in the centre between these two points, is a low rocky island producing some trees, to which the name of Passage Island was given. We passed in an uninterrupted channel to the east of it, with the appearance of an equally good one on the other side.

Quitting point Atkinson, and proceeding up the sound, we passed on the western shore some detached rocks, with some sunken ones amongst them, that extend about two miles, but are not so far from the shore as to impede the navigation of the sound; up which we made a rapid progress, by the assistance of a fresh southerly gale, attended with dark gloomy weather, that greatly added to the dreary prospect of the surrounding country. The low fertile shores we had been accustomed to see, though lately with some interruption, here no longer existed; their place was now occupied by the base of the stupendous snowy barrier, thinly wooded, and rising from the sea abruptly to the clouds; from whose frigid summit, the dissolving snow in foaming torrents rushed down the sides and chasms of its rugged surface, exhibiting altogether a sublime, though gloomy spectacle, which animated nature seemed to have deserted. Not a bird, nor living creature was to be seen, and the roaring of the falling cataracts in every direction precluded their being heard, had any been in our neighbourhood.

Towards noon I considered that we had advanced some miles within the western boundary of the snowy barrier, as some of its rugged lofty mountains were now behind, and to the southward of us. This filled my mind with the pleasing hopes of finding our way to its eastern side. The sun shining at this time for a few minutes afforded an opportunity of ascertaining the latitude of the east point of an island which, from the shape of the mountain that composes it, obtained the name of Anvil Island, to be 49° 30′, its longitude 237° 3′. We passed an island the forenoon of Friday the 15th, lying on the eastern shore, opposite to an opening on the western, which evidently led into the gulf nearly in a S. W. direction, through a numerous assemblage of rocky islands and rocks, as also another opening to the westward of this island, that seemed to take a similar direction. Between Anvil island and the north point of the first opening, which lies from hence S. by W. five miles distance, are three white rocky islets, lying about a mile from the western shore. The width of this branch of the sound is about a league; but northward from Anvil island it soon narrows to half that breadth, taking a direction to the N. N. E. as far as latitude 49° 39′, longitude 237° 9′, where all our expectations vanished, in finding it to terminate in a round bason, encompassed on every side by the dreary country already described. At its head, and on the upper part of the eastern shore, a narrow margin of low land runs from the foot of the barrier mountains to the water side, which produced a few dwarf pine trees, with some little variety of underwood. The water of the sound was here nearly fresh, and in colour a few shades darker than milk; this I attributed to the melting of the snow, and its water passing rapidly over a chalky surface, which appeared probable by the white aspect of some of the chasms that seemed formerly to have been the course of water-falls, but were now become dry.

The gap we had entered in the snowy barrier seemed of little importance, as through the vallies, caused by the irregularity of the mountain’s tops, other mountains more distant, and apparently more elevated, were seen rearing their lofty heads in various directions. In this dreary and comfortless region, it was no inconsiderable piece of good fortune to find a little cove in which we could take shelter, and a small spot of level land on which we could erect our tent; as we had scarcely finished our examination when the wind became excessively boisterous from the southward, attended with heavy squalls and torrents of rain, which continuing until noon the following day, Friday the 15th, occasioned a very unpleasant detention. But for this circumstance we might too hastily have concluded that this part of the gulf was uninhabited. In the morning we were visited by near forty of the natives, on whose approach, from the very material alteration that had now taken place in the face of the country, we expected to find some difference in their general character. This conjecture was however premature, as they varied in no respect whatever, but in possessing a more ardent desire for commercial transactions; into the spirit of which they entered with infinitely more avidity than any of our former acquaintances, not only in bartering amongst themselves the different valuables they had obtained from us, but when that trade became slack, in exchanging those articles again with our people; in which traffic they always took care to gain some advantage, and would frequently exult on the occasion. Some fish, their garments, spears, bows and arrows, to which these people wisely added their copper ornaments, comprised their general stock in trade. Iron, in all its forms, they judiciously preferred to any other article we had to offer.

The weather permitting us to proceed, we directed our route along the continental or western shore of the sound, passing within two small islands and the main land, into the opening before mentioned, stretching to the westward from Anvil island. At the distance of an hundred yards from the shore, the bottom could not be reached with 60 fathoms of line, nor had we been able to gain soundings in many places since we had quitted point Atkinson with 80 and 100 fathoms, though it was frequently attempted; excepting in the bason at the head of the sound, where the depth suddenly decreased from sixty fathoms to two. We had advanced a short distance only in this branch, before the colour of the water changed from being nearly milk white, and almost fresh, to that of oceanic and perfectly salt. By sun-set we had passed the channel which had been observed to lead into the gulf, to the southward of Anvil island; and about nine o’clock landed for the night, near the west point of entrance into the sound, which I distinguished by the name of Howe’s Sound, in honour of Admiral Earl Howe; and this point, situated in latitude 49° 23′, longitude 236° 51′, Point Gower; between which and point Atkinson, up to Anvil island, is an extensive group of islands of various sizes. The shores of these, like the adjacent coast, are composed principally of rocks rising perpendicularly from an unfathomable sea; they are tolerably well covered with trees, chiefly of the pine tribe, though few are of a luxuriant growth.

At four o’clock on Saturday morning the 16th, we resumed our course to the north-westward, along the starboard or continental shore of the gulf of Georgia, which from point Gower takes a direction about W. N. W. and affords a more pleasing appearance than the shores of Howe’s sound. This part of the coast is of a moderate height for some distance inland, and it frequently jets out into low sandy projecting points. The country in general produces forest trees in great abundance, of some variety and magnitude; the pine is the most common, and the woods are little encumbered with bushes or trees of inferior growth. We continued in this line about five leagues along the coast, passing some rocks and rocky islets, until we arrived at the north point of an island about two leagues in circuit, with another about half that size to the westward of it, and a smaller island between them. From the north point of this island, which forms a channel with the main about half a mile wide, and is situated in latitude 49° 28½′, longitude 236° 31′, the coast of the continent takes a direction for about eight miles N. 30 W. and is composed of a rugged rocky shore, with many detached rocks lying at a little distance. The track we thus pursued had not the appearance of the main branch of the gulf, but of a channel between the continent and that land, which, from point Roberts, seemed like a small though very high round island. This now appeared of considerable extent, its N. E. side formed a channel to the N. W. as far as the eye could reach, about five miles in width. The main branch of the gulf, apparently of infinitely greater extent, took a direction to the south-westward of this land, which now looked more like a peninsula than an island. Along this rocky shore of the main land we passed in quest of a resting place for the night, to no effect, until after dark; when we found shelter in a very dreary uncomfortable cove near the south point of an island, about a mile long, and about two miles to the S. S. E. of a narrow opening leading to the northward. This on the return of day-light on Sunday the 17th, we proceeded to examine; and passed through a very narrow, though navigable channel, amongst a cluster of rocks and rocky islets, lying just in the front of its entrance, which is situated in latitude 49° 35½′, longitude 236° 26′. It is about half a mile wide, winding towards the N. N. E. for about three leagues, where it divides into two branches, one stretching to the eastward, the other to the westward of north, with an island before the entrance of the latter. Agreeably to our general mode of proceeding, the north-easterly branch became the first object of our attention, and was found from hence to continue in an irregular course to the latitude of 49° 49′, longitude 236° 35½′; where, finding a tolerably comfortable situation, we rested for the night.

We had seen about seventeen Indians in our travels this day, who were much more painted than any we had hitherto met with. Some of their arrows were pointed with slate, the first I had seen so armed on my present visit to this coast; these they appeared to esteem very highly, and like the inhabitants of Nootka, took much pains to guard them from injury. They however spoke not the Nootka language, nor the dialect of any Indians we had conversed with; at least, the few words we had acquired were repeated to them without effect; in their persons they differed in no other respect, and were equally civil and inoffensive in their behaviour. The shores we passed this day are of a moderate height within a few miles of this station, and are principally composed of craggy rocks, in the chasms of which a soil of decayed vegetables has been formed by the hand of time; from which pine trees of an inferior dwarf growth are produced, with a considerable quantity of bushes and underwood. We passed a few rocky islets near the division of the inlet. These seemed steep, as soundings with the handline could not be gained; nor had we any where in mid-channel been able to reach the bottom with 100 fathoms of line, although the shores are not a mile asunder.

The next morning, Monday the 18th, as usual, at four o’clock, we proceeded up the inlet about three miles in a N. N. W. direction, whence its width increases about half a league in a direction nearly N. E. to a point which towards noon we reached, and ascertained its latitude to be 50° 1′, longitude 236° 46′. The width of this channel still continuing, again flattered us with discovering a breach in the eastern range of snowy mountains, notwithstanding the disappointment we had met with in Howe’s sound; and although since our arrival in the gulf of Georgia, it had proved an impenetrable barrier to that inland navigation, of which we had heard so much, and had sought with sanguine hopes and ardent exertions hitherto in vain, to discover.

By the progress we had this morning made, which comprehended about six leagues, we seemed to have penetrated considerably into this formidable obstacle; and as the more lofty mountains were now behind us, and no very distant ones were seen beyond the vallies caused by the depressed parts of the snowy barrier in the northern quarters, we had great reason to believe we had passed the centre of this impediment to our wishes, and I was induced to hope we should yet find this inlet winding beyond the mountains, by the channel through which we had thus advanced upwards of 11 leagues, though for the most part it was not more than half a mile wide. Under these circumstances, our reduced stock of provisions was a matter of serious concern, fearing we might be obliged to abandon this pursuit without determining the source of this branch of the sea, having now been absent six days with subsistence for a week only, which would consequently very materially retard our survey, by rendering a second visit to this inlet indispensibly necessary. The surrounding country presented an equally dreary aspect with that in the vicinage of Howe’s sound; and the serenity of the weather not adding at present to the natural gloominess of the prospect, was counter-balanced by the rugged surface of the mountains being infinitely less productive. A few detached dwarf pine trees, with some berry, and other small bushes, were the only signs of vegetation. The cataracts here rushed from the rugged snowy mountains in greater number, and with more impetuosity than in Howe’s sound; yet the colour of the water was not changed, though in some of the gullies there was the same chalky aspect. Hence it is probable, that the white appearance of the water in Howe’s sound, may arise from a cause more remote, and which we had no opportunity of discovering.

Having dined, we pursued our examination. The inlet now took a N. W. by W. direction, without any contraction in its width, until about five o’clock in the evening, when all our hopes vanished, by finding it terminate, as others had done, in swampy low land producing a few maples and pines, in latitude 50° 6′, longitude 236° 33′. Through a small space of low land, which extended from the head of the inlet to the base of the mountains that surrounded us, flowed three small streams of fresh water, apparently originating from one source in the N. W. or left hand corner of the bay, formed by the head of this inlet; in which point of view was seen an extensive valley, that took nearly a northerly uninterrupted direction as far as we could perceive, and was by far the deepest chasm we had beheld in the descending ridge of the snowy barrier, without the appearance of any elevated land rising behind. This valley much excited my curiosity to ascertain what was beyond it. But as the streams of fresh water were not navigable, though the tide had risen up to the habitations of six or seven Indians, any further examination of it in our boats was impracticable, and we had no leisure for excursions on shore. From the civil natives who differed not in any respect from those we had before occasionally seen, we procured a few most excellent fish, for which they were compensated principally in iron, being the commodity they most esteemed and sought after. In all these arms of the sea we had constantly observed, even to their utmost extremity, a visible, and sometimes a material rise and fall of the tide, without experiencing any other current than a constant drain down to seaward, excepting just in the neighbourhood of the gulf.

On our approach to the low land, we gained soundings at 70 fathoms, which soon decreased as we advanced, to 30, 14, and 3 fathoms, on a bank that stretches across the head of the inlet, similar to all the others we had before examined. So far as these soundings extended, which did not exceed half a league, the colour of the water was a little affected, probably by the discharge of the fresh water rivulets, that generally assumed a very light colour. Beyond these soundings the water again acquired its oceanic colour, and its depth was unfathomable.

Not a little mortified that our progress should be so soon stopped, it became highly expedient to direct our way towards the ships, to whose station, by the nearest route we could take, it was at least 114 miles. This was now to be performed, after the time was nearly expired for which our supply of provisions had been calculated. Necessity directed that no time should be lost; especially as I was determined to seek a passage into the gulf by the branch of the inlet that we had passed the preceding day, leading to the N. W. conceiving there was a great probability that this branch might lead into the gulf at some distance beyond where we had entered this inlet; in which course we should have an opportunity of fixing the boundaries of the continent to the utmost extent that our present equipment would afford. For as our people had become wise by experience, I entertained little doubt of their having so husbanded their provisions as to enable our effecting this service; by which means any other excursion this way would be rendered unnecessary.

About two leagues from the head of the inlet we had observed, as we passed upwards on the northern shore, a small creek with some rocky islets before it, where I intended to take up our abode for the night. On our return, it was found to be a fall of salt water, just deep enough to admit our boats against a very rapid stream, where at low tide they would have grounded some feet above the level of the water in the inlet. From the rapidity of the stream, and the quantity of water it discharged, it was reasonable to suppose, by its taking a winding direction up a valley to the N. E. that its source was at some distance. This not answering our purpose as a resting place, obliged us to continue our search along the shore for one less incommodious, which the perpendicular precipices precluded our finding until near eleven at night, when we disembarked on the only low projecting point the inlet afforded.

At four, on the morning of Tuesday the 19th, we again started, but having a strong southerly gale against us, it was past nine at night before we reached a small bay, about a mile to the north of the north point of the arm leading to the north-westward, where we rested for the night; and, at day-light, proceeded, as usual, along the continental shore.

This first stretched a little way to the north-westward, and then to the S. W. into the gulf, as I had imagined it would; forming, irregularly, a much more spacious channel than that by which we had entered, having an island lying between the two channels about three leagues in length, with several small islets about it. This island, and its adjacent shores, like those in the other channel, are of a moderate height, and wear a similar appearance. It was nearly noon before we reached the north point of the inlet; which, producing the first Scotch firs we had yet seen, obtained the name of Scotch-Fir Point; and is situated in latitude 49° 42′, longitude 236° 17′. To this arm of the sea, I gave the name of Jervis’s Channel, in honour of Admiral Sir John Jervis.

The boundary of the continental shore I now considered as determined to this point, from a full conviction that the inlet under the examination of Mr. Whidbey, would terminate like those we had visited. Presuming our time to have been not ill spent, we directed our course to the station where we had left the ships now at the distance of 84 miles, steering for the opposite shore, being the land before adverted to, as appearing to form an extensive island, or peninsula; the nearest part of which was about five miles across from Scotch-fir point; and with the continental shore still formed a passage, to all appearance, of the same width, in a direction N. 62 W., with an uninterrupted horizon in that point of view; so that, whether it was an island or peninsula, remained still to be determined.

The shores of this land, nearly straight and compact, are principally formed of rocky substances of different sorts; amongst which, slate was in abundance; and the trees it produced were of infinitely more luxuriant growth than those on the opposite shore. In the forenoon of Thursday the 21st, we passed the south point of this land, and in remembrance of an early friendship, I called it Point Upwood, situated in latitude 49° 28½′, longitude 236° 24′. This land, though chiefly composed of one lofty mountain, visible at the distance of 20 leagues and upwards, is very narrow, appearing to form, with the western shore of the gulf, a channel nearly parallel to that which we had last quitted; though considerably more extensive, and containing some small islands. Its horizon was bounded by the summits of high distant detached mountains.

As we were rowing, on the morning of Friday the 22d, for point Grey, purposing there to land and breakfast, we discovered two vessels at anchor under the land. The idea which first occurred was, that, in consequence of our protracted absence, though I had left no orders to this effect, the vessels had so far advanced in order to meet us; but on a nearer approach, it was discovered, that they were a brig and a schooner, wearing the colours of Spanish vessels of war, which I conceived were most probably employed in pursuits similar to our own; and this on my arrival on board, was confirmed. These vessels proved to be a detachment from the commission Sen^r Melaspina, who was himself employed in the Phillippine islands; Sen^r Melaspina had, the preceding year, visited the coast; and these vessels, his Catholic Majesty’s brig the Sutil, under the command of Sen^r Don D. Galiano, with the schooner Mexicana, commanded by Sen^r Don C. Valdes, both captains of frigates in the Spanish navy, had sailed from Acapulco on the 8th of March, in order to prosecute discoveries on this coast. Sen^r Galiano, who spoke a little English, informed me, that they had arrived at Nootka on the 11th of April, from whence they had sailed on the 5th of this month, in order to complete the examination of this inlet, which had, in the preceding year, been partly surveyed by some Spanish officers whose chart they produced.

I cannot avoid acknowledging that, on this occasion, I experienced no small degree of mortification in finding the external shores of the gulf had been visited, and already examined a few miles beyond where my researches during the excursion, had extended; making the land, I had been in doubt about, an island; continuing nearly in the same direction, about four leagues further than had been seen by us; and, by the Spaniards, named Favida. The channel, between it and the main, they had called Canal del Neustra Signora del Rosario, whose western point had terminated their examination; which seemed to have been intirely confined to the exterior shores, as the extensive arms, and inlets, which had occupied so much of our time, had not claimed the least of their attention.

The Spanish vessels, that had been thus employed last year, had refitted in the identical part of port Discovery, which afforded us similar accommodation. From these gentlemen, I likewise understood, that Sen^r Quadra, the commander in chief of the Spanish marine at S^t. Blas and at California, was, with three frigates and a brig, waiting my arrival at Nootka, in order to negociate the restoration of those territories to the crown of Great Britain. Their conduct was replete with that politeness and friendship which characterizes the Spanish nation; every kind of useful information they cheerfully communicated, and obligingly expressed much desire, that circumstances might so concur as to admit our respective labours being carried on together; for which purpose, or, if from our long absence and fatigue in an open boat, I would wish to remain with my party as their guest, they would immediately dispatch a boat with such directions as I might deem necessary for the conduct of the ships, or, in the event of a favorable breeze springing up, they would weigh and sail directly to their station: but being intent on losing no time, I declined their obliging offers, and having partaken with them a very hearty breakfast, bad them farewell, not less pleased with their hospitality and attention, than astonished at the vessels in which they were employed to execute a service of such a nature. They were each about forty-five tons burthen, mounted two brass guns, and were navigated by twenty-four men, bearing one lieutenant, without a single inferior officer. Their apartments just allowed room for sleeping places on each side, with a table in the intermediate space, at which four persons, with some difficulty, could sit, and were, in all other respects, the most ill calculated and unfit vessels that could possibly be imagined for such an expedition; notwithstanding this, it was pleasant to observe, in point of living, they possessed many more comforts than could reasonably have been expected. I shewed them the sketch I had made of our excursion, and pointed out the only spot which I conceived we had left unexamined, nearly at the head of Burrard’s channel: they seemed much surprized that we had not found a river said to exist in the region we had been exploring, and named by one of their officers Rio Blancho, in compliment to the then prime minister of Spain; which river these gentlemen had sought for thus far to no purpose. They took such notes as they chose from my sketch, and promised to examine the small opening in Burrard’s channel, which, with every other information they could procure, should be at my service on our next meeting.

From these new and unexpected friends we directed our course along the shoal already noticed, which I now called Sturgeon Bank, in consequence of our having purchased of the natives some excellent fish of that kind, weighing from fourteen to two hundred pounds each. To avoid this bank, which stretches from point Roberts to point Grey, a most excellent leading mark was observed along its western extremity, being Passage and Anvil islands in one, which lead by its edge in six fathoms water, deepening suddenly to the westward, and in many places to the eastward, shoaling as suddenly to three, two, and one fathom. The circle which this bank occasioned us to make, made the distance to point Roberts upwards of 30 miles. We were likewise unfortunate in having two flood tides against us. These, together with a light southerly breeze that prevailed the whole time, obliged us to be constantly rowing from nine in the forenoon until after midnight, before we could reach the point, which was at length effected; though not before we were nearly exhausted by fatigue. Here we slept, and in the morning of Saturday the 23d, against a strong easterly breeze, about ten in the forenoon we reached the ships, after having traversed in our boats upwards of 330 miles.

The broken part of the coast that Mr. Whidbey had been employed in examining, was found to extend but a few miles to the northward of the spot where his former researches had ended; forming altogether an extensive bay, which I have distinguished as Bellingham’s Bay. It is situated behind a cluster of islands, from which a number of channels lead into it: its greatest extent in a north and south direction, is from the latitude 48° 36′, to 48° 48′; the longitude of its eastern extremity 237° 50′. It every where affords good and secure anchorage; opposite to its north point of entrance the shores are high and rocky, with some detached rocks lying off it. Here was found a brook of most excellent water. To the north and south of these rocky cliffs the shores are less elevated, especially to the northward, where some of those beautiful verdant lawns were again presented to our view. Near the north entrance into this bay, the two Spanish vessels had been descried by Mr. Whidbey, who returned, and communicated the intelligence to the ships; in consequence of which the Chatham weighed and spoke them off point Roberts; they having passed our ships during the night undiscovered.

Having now fixed the continental shore so far as from this station was within our reach, and having obtained sufficient observations for correcting the rate of our chronometers, every thing was immediately re-embarked, and we were in readiness to proceed in the morning.

During my absence, the boats of the Discovery and Chatham had been employed in attempting to gain some further knowledge of the numerous islands we passed on our arrival in this bay; but they were found so abundantly dispersed as to preclude any correct examination, without having sufficient leisure for the purpose.

Nothing further occurred at this station worthy of notice, if we except an observation which had been repeatedly made, that in proportion as we advanced to the northward, the forests were composed of an infinitely less variety of trees, and their growth was less luxuriant. Those most commonly seen were pines of different sorts, the arbor vitæ, the oriental arbutus, and I believe, some species of cypress. On the islands some few small oaks were seen, with the Virginian juniper; and at this place the Weymouth pine, Canadian elder, and black birch; which latter grew in such abundance, that it obtained the name of Birch Bay. The S. E. part of this bay is formed by nearly perpendicular rocky cliffs, from whence the higher woodland country retires a considerable distance to the north-eastward, leaving an extensive space of low land between it and the sea, separated from the high ground by a rivulet of fresh water that discharges itself at the bottom, or northern extremity of the bay. On the low land very luxuriant grass was produced, with wild rose, gooseberry, and other bushes in abundance.

I shall conclude this chapter by stating that, by the mean result of eleven meridional altitudes of the sun, we found Birch bay situated in latitude 48° 53½′; the longitude 237° 33′, was deduced from the observations made use of for settling port Discovery, including twenty-eight sets of lunar distances taken at this station, whence on the 22d, at noon, Kendall’s chronometer was found to be 54′ 11″ 29‴ fast of mean time at Greenwich; and by six days corresponding altitudes, to be gaining on mean time at the rate of 12″ 45‴ per day. Mr. Arnold’s on board the Chatham, from the same authority was, on the same day at noon, fast of mean time at Greenwich, 3^h 14′ 46″, and gaining at the rate of 25″ 15‴ per day. The variation of the compass, by nineteen sets of azimuths, differing from 17½ to 21 degrees, gave a mean result of 19° 30′ eastwardly variation.

The vertical inclination of the marine dipping needle,

The tides were found to be very inconsiderable, but were not particularly noticed.

With a fine breeze, and very pleasant weather, we sailed out of Birch bay, on Midsummer morning; and, with the wind from the eastward, we directed our course up the gulf, to the north-westward. About two in the afternoon of Sunday the 24th, we were joined by the Spanish vessels, who saluted by cheering. This was returned; after which their respective commanders favored me with their company on board the Discovery; and we pursued our way up the gulf together.

Sen^r Galiano informed me, that they had examined the small branch I had passed by in Burrard’s channel, which was found very narrow, leading in a north direction nearly three leagues, where it terminated in a small rivulet. They favored me with a copy of their sketch of it, as also with their good company until sun-set, when they returned to their vessels; point Roberts then bearing by compass S. 68 E., point Grey, N. 64 E.; which, being the nearest part of the continental or eastern shore, was at the distance of about three leagues; and the nearest part of the opposite shore of the gulf, bearing S. W. was distant about two leagues.

During the night, and until noon the next day, Monday the 25th, the winds were light and baffling. In the course of the forenoon a great number of whales were playing about in every direction; and though we had been frequently visited by these animals in this inland navigation, there seemed more about us now, than the whole of those we had before seen, if collected together.

This circumstance, in some measure, favored the assertion in Mr. Meares’s publication, that a passage to the ocean would be found by persevering in our present course; though this was again rendered very doubtful, as we had understood, from our Spanish friends, that, notwithstanding the Spaniards had lived upon terms of great intimacy with Mr. Gray and other American traders at Nootka, they had no knowledge of any person having ever performed such a voyage, but from the history of it published in England; and so far were these gentlemen from being better acquainted with the discoveries of De Fuca or De Fonte than ourselves, that, from us, they expected much information as to the truth of such reports. Sen^r Valdes, who had been on the coast the preceding year, and spoke the Indian language very fluently, understood, from the natives, that this inlet did communicate with the ocean to the northward, where they had seen ships. He was, however, too well acquainted with their characters as reporters, to place much dependance on their information, which was incompetent to the forming of any idea how far remote such ocean might be.

A gentle gale springing up from the eastward, soon after mid-day, we brought to for the Spanish vessels, who were at some distance a-stern. When they came up, we were honoured with the company of the commanders to dinner; and then made sail, directing our course through the channel del Neustra Signora del Rosario, whose whole extent nearly in a direction N. 53 W. is about 10 leagues from point Upwood, the S. E. point, to Point Marshall, the N. W. point of the island of Feveda; which point is situated in latitude 49° 48′, longitude 235° 47½′. From Scotch-Fir point, the shores of the channel approximated, until they became within two miles of each other, at its western end; and are, as well on the island as on the continental side, nearly straight, perfectly compact, and rise gradually, particularly on the continental shore, from a beach of sand and small stones, to a height that might be considered rather elevated land, well clothed with wood, but without any signs of being inhabited. From hence the continental shore took a N. W. direction. From point Marshall, N. 35 W. about a league distant, lies an island of a moderate height, four miles in circuit, with a smaller one about a mile to the S. W. of it: between this, which I named Harwood’s Island, and point Marshall, are some rocky islands and sunken rocks.

On the coast of the main land opposite this island is a small brook, probably of fresh water; from whence, as we advanced, the shores put on a very dreary aspect, chiefly composed of rugged rocks, thinly wooded with small dwarf pine trees. The islands, however, which appeared before us, were of a moderate height, and presented a scene more pleasing and fertile. About five in the evening we passed between the main and an island lying in an east and west direction, which I named Savary’s Island, about two leagues long, and about half a league broad: its N. E. point, situated in latitude 49° 57½′, longitude 235° 54½′, forms a passage with the continental shore, along which, in a N. W. direction, we continued at a distance from half a mile to half a league. On the south side of Savary’s island were numberless sunken rocks, nearly half a league from its shores, visible I believe only at low water.

We seemed now to have forsaken the main direction of the gulf, being on every side encompassed by islands and small rocky islets; some lying along the continental shore, others confusedly scattered, of different forms and dimensions. South-westward of these islands, the main arm of the gulf extended in a north-west direction, apparently three or four leagues wide, bounded by high though distant land. Through this very unpleasant navigation we sailed, still keeping close to the continental shore, which was compact. About dark we entered a spacious sound stretching to the eastward. Here I was very desirous of remaining until day-light; but soundings could not be gained though close to the shore.

The night was dark and rainy, and the winds so light and variable, that by the influence of the tides we were driven about as it were blindfolded in this labyrinth, until towards midnight, when we were happily conducted to the north side of an island in this supposed sound, where we anchored in company with the Chatham and the Spanish vessels, in 32 fathoms water, rocky bottom. At break of day on Tuesday the 26th, we found ourselves about half a mile from the shores of a high rocky island, surrounded by a detached and broken country, whose general appearance was very inhospitable. Stupendous rocky mountains rising almost perpendicularly from the sea, principally composed the north-west, north and eastern quarters; on these, pine trees, though not of luxuriant growth, nor of much variety, were produced in great numbers. The pleasing prospects which the shores on the eastern side of the gulf afforded by their contrast with the mountains of the snowy barrier, giving a grand and interesting character to the landscape, here no longer existed; nor had we been enabled to trace that range of mountains far to the north-westward of Scotch-Fir point, where the line of coast forms a very considerable angle with that of the barrier mountains. It is however probable, that at some distance from our present anchorage, where the perpendicular precipices we were now under would no longer have obstructed our view of the inland country, their lofty summits would have been still visible. The tops of the rugged mountains that compose these shores were not sufficiently elevated to retain the snow in summer, which, in all probability, clothes them during the winter season.

The infinitely divided appearance of the region into which we had now arrived, promised to furnish ample employment for our boats.

To Lieutenant Puget and Mr. Whidbey, in the Discovery’s launch and cutter, I consigned the examination of the continental shore, from the place where we had lost sight of it the preceding evening. Mr. Johnstone, in the Chatham’s cutter, accompanied by Mr. Swaine in her launch, were directed to investigate a branch of this sound leading to the north-westward; and Sen^r Valdes undertook the survey of the intermediate coast; by which arrangement the whole, or if not a very considerable extent, would soon be determined. Whilst the boats were equipping, Mr. Broughton went in quest of a more commodious situation for the ships up the sound to the north-west.

The weather, which was serene and extremely pleasant, afforded me an opportunity, in company with Sen^r Galiano and some of our officers, to visit the shore of the island, near which we were at anchor, and to determine the situation of its west point to be in latitude 50° 6′, longitude 235° 26′. With the former Sen^r Galiano’s observations agreed, but by his chronometer the longitude was made more westerly. My observations being deduced from the watch, according to its rate as settled in Birch bay, which was not very likely to have yet acquired any material error, inclined me to believe we were probably the most correct.

Early in the afternoon Mr. Broughton returned, having found a more eligible anchorage, though in a situation equally dreary and unpleasant. The several gentlemen in the boats being made acquainted with the station to which the ships were about to resort, departed agreeably to their respective instructions.

The wind, that since noon had blown fresh from the S. E. attended with heavy squalls and much rain, drove us, by its increased violence, from our anchorage, and almost instantly into 70 and 80 fathoms water. The anchor was immediately hove up, and we steered for the rendezvous Mr. Broughton had pointed out, where, about six in the evening, we arrived in company with our little squadron. Our situation here was on the northern side of an arm of the sound leading to the north-westward, a little more than half a mile wide, presenting as gloomy and dismal an aspect as nature could well be supposed to exhibit, had she not been a little aided by vegetation; which though dull and uninteresting, screened from our sight the dreary rocks and precipices that compose these desolate shores, especially on the northern side; as the opposite shore, though extremely rude and mountainous, possessed a small space of nearly level land, stretching from the water side, on which some different sorts of the pine tribe, arbor vitæ, maple, and the oriental arbutus, seemed to grow with some vigour, and in a better soil.

The very circumscribed view that we had of the country here, rendered it impossible to form the most distant idea of any circumstances relative to the situation in which we had become stationary; whether composed of islands, or of such arms of the sea as we had lately been employed in examining, or how long there was a probability of our remaining in anxious expectation for the return of our friends. Our residence here was truly forlorn; an awful silence pervaded the gloomy forests, whilst animated nature seemed to have deserted the neighbouring country, whose soil afforded only a few small onions, some samphire, and here and there bushes bearing a scanty crop of indifferent berries. Nor was the sea more favorable to our wants, the steep rocky shores prevented the use of the seine, and not a fish at the bottom could be tempted to take the hook.

I had absented myself from the present surveying excursions, in order to procure some observations for the longitude here, and to arrange the charts of the different surveys in the order they had been made. These, when so methodized, my third lieutenant Mr. Baker had undertaken to copy and embellish, and who, in point of accuracy, neatness, and such dispatch as circumstances admitted, certainly excelled in a very high degree. To conclude our operations up to the present period some further angles were required. Beside these I was desirous of acquiring some knowledge of the main channel of the gulf we had quitted on Monday afternoon, and to which no one of our boats had been directed.

Early in the morning of Saturday the 30th, I set out in the yawl on that pursuit, with a favorable breeze from the N. W. which shortly shifted to the opposite quarter, and blew a fresh gale, attended with a very heavy rain. Having reached by ten in the forenoon no further than the island under which we had anchored at midnight on the 25th, a prospect of a certain continuance of the unsettled weather obliged me to abandon my design, and return to the ship; where I had the pleasure of hearing the launch and cutter had arrived soon after my departure, after having completed the examination of the continental coast from the place where we had left it, the night we had entered the sound, to about three leagues north-westward of our present station, making the land near which we were then at anchor on our northern side, an island, or a cluster of islands of considerable extent. These gentlemen were likewise of opinion, that all the land before us to the westward and N. W. from its insular appearance, formed an immense archipelago; but knowing Mr. Johnstone was directed to examine that quarter, and coming within sight of the ships, they had returned on board for further instructions.

On the commencement of their survey, they found the continental shore continue nearly in its N. W. direction to the eastern point of entrance into this sound, which I called Point Sarah, and is situated in latitude 50° 4½′; longitude 235° 25½′; its opposite point, which I named Point Mary, lying N. 72 W. about half a league distant; from point Sarah they proceeded along the continental shore up a very narrow channel, rendered almost inaccessible by the number of sunken rocks and rocky islets which it contained. It was found to lead in a south-easterly direction, almost parallel with, and two or three miles from, the northern shore of the gulf at the distance of about three leagues, with a smaller branch near the middle, extending about a league from its northern shore to the N. N. E. From this channel they continued along the continental shore in an easterly and N. E. direction, which led to that part of the coast under the inspection of Sen^r Valdes. The eastern shore, for the space of two leagues, was found much indented; and several small islands and rocks were seen lying near it to the latitude of 50° 10′, longitude 235° 35′. Here these rocky islets disappeared, and the coast took a winding course N. W. and westward, to a point bearing from the above station N. 35 W. distant about two leagues, and forming the east point of an arm of the sound, whose entrance, about half a league wide, has two islets lying in it. About a mile up this arm they met Sen^r Valdes, who informed them he had thoroughly explored that place, and that in the channel leading to the north-westward he had spoken with Mr. Johnstone, so that there could be no doubt of a passage to the ships by that route. Sen^r Valdes intimated that he considered any further investigation of that place totally unnecessary; but the officers not having on this occasion any directions of a discretionary nature, acted according to the directions they had formerly received for the execution of such service, and prosecuted its examination. They found it extend in an irregular north-easterly direction to the latitude of 50° 22′, longitude 235° 46′, where it terminated in shallow water and a little low land; through which flowed two small rivulets. In these rivulets, and on the shoal parts, several wears were erected. Along the shores of the upper part of this arm, which are mostly composed of high steep barren rocks, were several fences formed by thin laths, stuck either in the ground, or in the chinks of the rocks, with others placed along them; some in horizontal, others in oblique, and different directions. Ranges of these were fixed along the rocky cliffs in the line of the shore, others varied from that direction, and from their appearance were supposed to be intended for the purpose of drying fish; but as similar works, though perhaps not quite so extensive, had been often observed without being appropriated to that use, and always at a considerable distance from any known habitation; the object they were designed for, remained as uncertain to us, as the application of the high beacons we found so frequently erected on the more southern part of New Georgia.

The surrounding country up this arm nearly corresponded with that in the neighbourhood of Howe’s sound; and, like it, was nearly destitute of inhabitants. Two canoes were seen, which the owners had very recently quitted, as their garments and many of their utensils were remaining in them, to which the officers added some articles of iron, copper, beads, and other trinkets. From hence they directed their course towards the ship, and arrived as before stated. The country they had visited differed little, excepting in one or two small spots, from the region in which we were then stationed: the whole presented one desolate, rude, and inhospitable aspect. It has already been considered as not intirely destitute of the human race; and that it had been more populous than at present, was manifested by the party having discovered an extensive deserted village, computed to have been the residence of nearly three hundred persons. It was built on a rock, whose perpendicular cliffs were nearly inaccessible on every side; and connected with the main, by a low narrow neck of land, about the centre of which grew a tree, from whose branches planks were laid to the rock, forming by this means a communication that could easily be removed, to prevent their being molested by their internal unfriendly neighbours; and protected in front, which was presented to the sea, from their external enemies, by a platform, which, with much labour and ingenuity had been constructed on a level with their houses, and overhung and guarded the rock. This, with great stability, was formed by large timbers judiciously placed for supporting each other in every direction; their lower ends were well secured in the chasms of the rocks about half way to the water’s edge, admitting the platform to be so projected as to command the foot of the rock against any attempt to storm the village. The whole seemed so skilfully contrived, and so firmly and well executed, as rendered it difficult to be considered the work of the untutored tribes we had been accustomed to meet; had not their broken arms and implements, with parts of their manufactured garments, plainly evinced its inhabitants to be of the same race.

Whilst examining these abandoned dwellings, and admiring the rude citadel projected for their defence, our gentlemen were suddenly assailed by an unexpected numerous enemy, whose legions made so furious an attack upon each of their persons, that unable to vanquish their foes, or to sustain the conflict, they rushed up to their necks in water. This expedient, however, proved ineffectual; nor was it till after all their clothes were boiled, that they were disengaged from an immense horde of fleas, which they had disturbed by examining too minutely the filthy garments and apparel of the late inhabitants.

The weather continued very rainy and unpleasant July 1792 until the forenoon of Saturday the 1st of July, when, on its clearing up, Mr. Puget and Mr. Whidbey were again dispatched, to execute the task I had the preceding day attempted; as likewise to gain some information of the southern side of the gulf, and the broken country, which existed between it and our present anchorage.

The securities about the head of the Discovery being constantly out of repair, our carpenters were now employed on that service; and, here also, we brewed some spruce beer, which was excellent.

The next day, Monday the 2d, in the afternoon, Mr. Johnstone returned, who, after having met Sen^r Valdes, as before stated, abandoned his pursuit of that which appeared to him to be the main shore leading to the eastward, and prosecuted his researches in the opposite direction, leading to the west, N. W. and to the north, in a channel of an irregular width, where, after examining a small opening, in a northerly direction, he shortly discovered another, about two miles wide, in latitude 52° 21′, longitude 235° 9′; along which, he kept the starboard or eastern shore on board, which was compact; but the western side, for some miles on which some fires were observed, seemed somewhat divided by water. This inlet, in general, from one to two miles wide, led them in an irregular northern direction to the latitude of 50° 52′, longitude 235° 19′, where, in the usual manner, it terminated by a small tract of low land, from whence a shallow bank stretched into the arm, which soon increased, from 2 to 50, 70, and 100 fathoms in depth, and then became unfathomable. Behind this low small spot of land, the mountains rose very abruptly, divided by two deep vallies, whence issued streams of fresh water, though not sufficiently capacious to admit the boats. In these vallies, and on the low plains, pine trees grew to a tolerable size; the few seen on the mountains were of very stunted growth. High steep barren rocks, capped with snow, formed the sides of this channel, the water of which at its head, was nearly fresh, and of a pale colour, as was that in the arm where Mr. Puget met Sen^r Valdes. It was noon on the 30th before we reached that part of the western shore, which had appeared broken, and on which the fires of the natives had been observed on entering this channel, which I distinguished by the name of Bute’s Channel. Here was found an Indian village, situated on the face of a steep rock, containing about one hundred and fifty of the natives, some few of whom had visited our party in their way up the channel, and now many came off in the most civil and friendly manner, with a plentiful supply of fresh herrings and other fish, which they bartered in a fair and honest way for nails. These were of greater value amongst them, than any other articles our people had to offer. From the point on which this village is erected, in latitude 50° 24′, longitude 235° 8′, a very narrow opening was seen stretching to the westward, and through it flowed so strong a current, that the boats, unable to row against it, were hauled by a rope along the rocky shores forming the passage. In this fatiguing service the Indians voluntarily lent their aid to the utmost of their power, and were rewarded for their cordial disinterested assistance, much to their satisfaction. Having passed these narrows, the channel widened, and the rapidity of the tide decreased. Mr. Johnstone, in the cutter, had alone been able to pass; to whom it was evident that this narrow passage had communication with some very extensive inlet of the sea; but, as the weather was now very boisterous, with heavy rain, and a thick haze, and as the launch had not yet made her appearance, he returned in search of her, and found the party using their utmost endeavours to get through the narrows by the same friendly assistance of the natives he had before experienced; which being now no longer required these good people returned to their habitations, apparently well satisfied with the kind offices they had rendered, and the acknowledgments they had received. The boats now sought shelter from the inclemency of the weather in a small cove on the south side of the arm they had quitted, where the same cause operated to detain them until the morning of the 2d of July, when the time for which they were supplied with provisions being nearly expired, it was deemed most expedient to return to the ships.

By these two expeditions the boundary of the continental shore was completely ascertained to the above narrow passage; and the strongest presumption induced that the whole of the coast on our western side, southward of that passage was composed of innumerable islands.

The weather being tolerably fair, Mr. Johnstone and Mr. Swaine were the next day, Wednesday the 5th, again dispatched with a week’s provisions, to examine the continental shore through the narrow passage from whence they had returned; by the means of which, and the survey then prosecuting under Lieutenant Puget and Mr. Whidbey, who were to commence their inquiries in an opposite point, the whole extent of the gulf would be finally determined; or, in the event of the Indian’s information being correct, its further navigable communication to the northward would be discovered.

By what I had seen of the gulf on the evening we entered this sound, though its western extremity was certainly bounded, yet the appearance of the land in that direction favored the opinion of its being composed of islands, though the whole might be united by low land not perceptible at so great a distance.

On Friday the 5th in the afternoon, the officers in the launch and cutter returned, from whom I understood, that they had found the western side of the gulf of Georgia, from that part opposite to point Marshall, to be compact, rising in a gentle ascent from the sea shore to the inland mountains, (some of which were covered with snow) wearing a pleasant and fertile appearance; along this shore they continued their route and entered an inlet, whose eastern side is formed by a long narrow peninsula, the south extreme of which is situated in latitude 50°, longitude 235° 9′. This promontory, after my first lieutenant, who had also discovered the inlet from the top of a mountain he had ascended in this neighbourhood, obtained the name of Point Mudge. It forms a channel with the main land of the western side of the gulf of about a mile in width, nearly in a N. N. W. direction; this was pursued about three or four leagues without any apparent termination; the further they advanced the more extensive it was found. The tide, which was regular, was also rapid, and the flood evidently came from the north-westward; all these circumstances indicating the channel to be of considerable extent, they returned to communicate this intelligence.

On point Mudge was a very large village of the natives, many of whom visited the party on their passing and repassing by it, who uniformly conducted themselves with the greatest civility and respect. On the western shore, immediately without the entrance of the inlet, they found a rivulet of excellent fresh water. The passage up the inlet is perfectly free from danger, and affords good anchorage. Round point Mudge, at the distance of about half a mile, is a ledge of sunken rocks; these are, however, easily avoided by the weeds which they produce. From hence their way was directed to the northward, in order to join the ship through the broken land that exists between our present station and point Mudge. This was effected through a very intricate channel full of sunken rocks and rocky islets, leading them to the north point of the island which formed our S. W. shore, and bearing from hence N. 53 W. distant about four miles.

After receiving this information, I waited with no little impatience the return of the other boat party; in the hope that, if no intelligence should be derived to facilitate the progress of the ships, there was yet a great probability of finding a more comfortable resting place than that we then occupied. This afforded not a single prospect that was pleasing to the eye, the smallest recreation on shore, nor animal nor vegetable food, excepting a very scanty proportion of those eatables already described, and of which the adjacent country was soon exhausted, after our arrival. Nor did our exploring parties meet with a more abundant supply, whence the place obtained the name of Desolation Sound; where our time would have passed infinitely more heavily, had it not been relieved by the agreeable society of our Spanish friends.

The week, for which Mr. Johnstone and his party were furnished with supplies, having been expired some time, I began to be anxiously solicitous for their welfare; when, about two in the morning of Thursday the 12th, I had the satisfaction of having their arrival announced, all well, and that a passage leading into the Pacific Ocean to the north-westward had been discovered.

Mr. Johnstone had succeeded in finding his way into the arm leading to the westward through the narrows, where they were assisted by the friendly natives, about a league to the south of the passage by which he had before entered it; making the intermediate land, lying before the entrance into Bute’s channel, nearly a round island three or four leagues in circuit, which obtained the name of Stuart’s Island. This channel was not less intricate than the other, neither of which he considered a safe navigation for shipping, owing to their being so narrow, to the irregular direction and rapidity of the tides, and to the great depth of water; which even close to the shore, was no where less than sixty fathoms. From this passage the northern shore was pursued, and two small arms leading to the N. W. each about a league in extent, were examined. Here was met a canoe in which were three Indians, who fled to the woods with the utmost precipitation, leaving their canoe on the shore. In it Mr. Johnstone deposited some trifling articles, in the hope of dissipating by this means, their ill-grounded apprehension of danger. As he proceeded, he passed a spacious opening leading to the S. W. which he supposed communicated with the gulf some distance to the westward of our present station. The principal channel of the western arm still preserving a west direction, was about a mile wide; and as they advanced in it, they arrived at another branch nearly about the same width, in latitude 50° 26′, longitude 234° 35′, with an islet and some rocks lying off its east point of entrance. Conformably to our mode of tracing the continental shore, they were led up this opening; and in the night found themselves incommoded by the flood tide, although they had conceived from their former observations on the tides, that, at the time of their being disturbed at their resting place on shore, it would be nearly low water, as the moon was then passing the meridian. But, as the tide here varied upwards of four hours earlier than in the gulf of Georgia, and as the night had been still and pleasant, no accidental cause could be referred to, which was likely to have produced so material an alteration: the period of slowing, however, nearly corresponded with that of the tides at Nootka, and on the sea coast to the north of that place; which left little doubt, in the mind of Mr. Johnstone, that this unexpected circumstance had been occasioned by the channel they were in communicating with the ocean to the north-westward. The examination of the arm was continued, the next morning, to the latitude of 50° 46′, longitude 234° 41′, where it was thought to end. But this appearance proved to be a contraction only of the channel, by two interlocking points, from whence the Spaniards, who afterwards pursued its course, found its final termination in a N. E. by N. direction about three leagues further. They again reached the entrance in the evening, where the party rested for the night. This channel, which I distinguished by the name of Loughborough’s Channel, was about a mile wide, between steep and nearly perpendicular mountains, from whose lofty summits the dissolving snow descended down their rugged sides in many beautiful cascades.

In the morning of the 6th, their researches were continued along the western channel, in which they found the tide favoring their former conjectures, by the flood evidently approaching them from the westward. About two leagues to the west of the arm they had quitted, the channel again branched off in two directions, one stretching a little to the northward, the other a little to the southward of west. The former demanded their attention first, and was found to be an intricate channel, containing many sunken rocks and rocky islets, occasioning great irregularity in the tides, which were here extremely violent; this continued about two leagues, where the channel widened, and the water became less agitated. Their course along the continental shore led them into a continuation of the western channel, which they had forsaken for the purpose of pursuing this more northerly one along the shore of the main land, by which means the southern side of the channel they had passed through was proved to be an island, about four leagues in extent. From hence they continued along the northern shore of the great western channel for the most part upwards of half a league wide, in the firm reliance of finding it lead to the ocean. Under this impression, Mr. Johnstone thought it of importance to ascertain that fact as speedily as possible; for which purpose, he steered over to the southern shore, leaving some openings, with some islands and rocks, on the northern side, for future examination. The southern shore was found nearly straight, and intire, rising abruptly from the sea to mountains of great height. Here they passed some small habitations of the natives, but the northern shore presented not the least sign of its being inhabited to the westward of the narrows. A slow progress was now made to the westward, in consequence of a fresh gale from that quarter, most part of the day; and the nights and mornings, often obscured in a thick fog, were generally calm.

On the morning of the 8th they were much surprized by the report of a gun at no very great distance. This was immediately answered by a swivel; but no return was heard. On the fog clearing away, a small canoe appeared, which attended them until they reached a village of greater consequence, in point of size, than any they had before seen, situated on the front of a hill near the sea side. The two Indians in the canoe, finding they were seen by those on shore, ventured alongside our boats; and, in the canoe was a musket with its appendages, and an eagle recently shot, which easily accounted for the discharge heard in the fog. As they approached the village several canoes visited the party; each of which was armed with a musket, and provided with ammunition; in one canoe there were three; these were considered as belonging to a chief, who informed them, that the village was under the authority of Maquinna^[6], the chief of Nootka, who, they gave our party reason to believe, was then on shore. The village had the appearance of being constructed with much regularity; its inhabitants numerous, and all seemingly well armed; under these circumstances it was passed by, without further inquiry, agreeably to our established maxim, never to court a danger on shore when necessity did not compel our landing.

A small sandy island, lying to the eastward of the village, affords between it and the land on which the town is situated, a small, but very commodious, anchorage. This is not, however, to be approached by the passage to the south of the island, that being navigable only for very small craft. To the south of the village a valley extended, apparently to a considerable distance, in a south-westerly direction. Through it a very fine stream of fresh water emptied itself into the sea, and, from the many wears that were seen in it, it was unquestionably well stocked with fish, though not any was offered for sale, notwithstanding the solicitation of our party, in the Nootka language, with which the natives seemed well acquainted.

After the chief had received some presents, amongst which copper seemed to him the most valuable, he, with most of his companions, returned to the shore; and, on landing, fired several muskets, to shew, in all probability, with what dexterity they could use these weapons, to which they seemed as familiarized as if they had been accustomed to fire-arms from their earliest infancy.

The shores on each side of the channel had materially decreased in height. That to the northward appeared very much broken, and mostly composed of islands; whilst that to the southward, which was pursued, remained compact and intire. The islands to the north were generally formed by low land near the shore, rising to a moderate height, well wooded, and on them the smoke of several fires was observed. This circumstance, together with the number of inhabitants on the southern shore, and the many canoes that were seen passing and repassing, evidently bespoke this country to be infinitely more populous than the shores of the gulf of Georgia.

The evening brought our party to the termination of the compact southern shore in its west direction, by a narrow channel leading to the south; and the main arm, which from that station took a north direction, spread very considerably; but the view to the westward was greatly interrupted by small islands. In the hope of reaching the westernmost island in sight, and by that means of determining the great object of their pursuit, they proceeded with a fresh gale from the east, attended by a great fall of rain, until midnight; when, supposing themselves at the limits they had seen before it was dark, they came to a grapnel under the lee of a small island, which in some degree sheltered them from the inclemency of the night. This extremely unpleasant weather continued without intermission, the whole of the next day, and until the morning of the 10th. They had now been absent six days out of the seven for which they had been provided, and the small remains of their stock were becoming hourly more insufficient for the distant voyage they had yet to perform in returning to the ships, which greatly increased the mortification they experienced by this very unlooked for detention; but a westerly wind and pleasant weather returning with the morning of the 10th, they rowed to an island conspicuously situated, from whence their expectations were gratified by a clear though distant view of the expansive ocean. The land constituting the different shores of the passage appeared of moderate height, much broken, and seemed to form various other channels to sea. This was however the most capacious; the westernmost land of which, on the northern side, bore by compass N. 62 W. about five leagues; and the westernmost land on the southern side N. 80 W. about four leagues distant. This island obtained the name of Alleviation Island, from whence they directed their course homeward, being upwards of 120 miles from the ships.

Impelled by reasons of the most pressing nature, no time was lost in taking advantage of the prevailing favorable gale, with which they kept on their return until midnight, when as usual, they landed for the night on the southern shore, nearly opposite the west end of the island that forms the south side of the intricate passage they had passed through on the 6th. As the survey from the ship had been carried on by that route, and confined to the examination of the northern or continental shore to that station, through passages rendered by various impediments ineligible as a navigation for the ships, Mr. Johnstone was desirous of pursuing another which led more southerly, and appeared less liable to such objections. Though he much regretted the lost opportunity of returning by the favorable gale that continued all night, he waited the approach of day, and departing with the dawn, had his wishes gratified by sailing through a clear and spacious channel, in width about half a league, without the smallest interruption, or the least irregularity in the tides. The southern shore, which from the large village was nearly straight, afforded some few small bays, the land mostly rising in an abrupt manner from the sea to mountains of considerable height, divided by valleys that appeared to extend a great way back into the country; the shores were tolerably well inhabited by the natives who lived in small villages near the water side. The northern shore was neither so high nor so compact; several detached rocks were seen lying near it, and it was, generally speaking, composed of rugged rocks, in the fissures of which an abundance of pine trees were produced, constituting, as on the southern shore, one intire forest. As they advanced in this channel, leading nearly in an east and west direction, they observed another which led to the south, south-eastward, bearing every appearance of being clear, navigable, and communicating with the gulf; and one also stretching to the north-eastward, which they had little doubt was the same they had seen after passing the narrows on the 4th, leading to the S. W. The former of these they much wished to explore, but their provisions being totally exhausted, it became expedient they should join the ships without further delay, and therefore pursued that leading to the north-eastward, by which they arrived as already related.

This information left me scarcely a doubt that the channel Mr. Johnstone had declined pursuing south-eastwardly towards the gulf, was the same our boats had entered leading to the northward from point Mudge, and which, on comparing the sketches of the several surveys, was as nearly as possible reduced to a certainty. I derived no small degree of satisfaction in finding my expectations so far advanced, for had our efforts proved ineffectual in discovering a communication with the ocean, it would have occupied the remaining part of the season to have examined the numerous openings on the opposite shores of the gulf, which were now proved to form the north-eastern side of an extensive island or archipelago, on whose south-western coast Nootka is situated; hence this task now became unnecessary, and I was flattered with the hope of yet extending our researches during the summer months a considerable distance to the northward.

Sen^rs Galiano and Valdes I made acquainted with our discoveries; and with my intention of departing, in consequence of the information we had gained, the first favorable moment.

When the village was pointed out where Maquinna was supposed to have been, Sen^r Valdes was of opinion, that circumstance was highly probable, knowing he had authority over an extensive country to the north-westward of Nootka.

These gentlemen received such information of all our discoveries up to this period as they required, and now begged leave to decline accompanying us further, as the powers they possessed in their miserable vessels, were unequal to a co-operation with us, and being apprehensive their attendance would retard our progress. Sen^r Galiano favored me with a copy of his survey, and other particulars relative to this inlet of the sea, which contained also that part of the neighbouring coast extending north-westward from the straits of De Fuca, beyond Nootka to the latitude of 50° 3′, longitude 232° 48′. He likewise gave me a letter to be forwarded to Sen^r Quadra at Nootka, by Maquinna, or any of his people with whom we might chance to meet, together with an introductory one to Sen^r Quadra, when I should have the pleasure of meeting him at Nootka. After an exchange of good wishes, we bad each other farewell, having experienced much satisfaction, and mutually received every kindness and attention that our peculiar situation could afford to our little society. From these gentlemen we were assured, that on our arrival at Nootka we should meet a most cordial reception, and be more pleasantly situated than we could imagine, as the houses had lately undergone a thorough repair, and all the gardens had been put and kept in the highest order, for the purpose of being so delivered into our possession.

With a light breeze from the northward, in the morning of Friday the 13th, we weighed and left our Spanish friends at anchor, who intended to pursue their researches to the westward through the channel Mr. Johnstone had discovered; and in commemoration of whose exertions was by me named Johnstone’s Straits; and the island described by him on the 6th, was in compliment to Mr. Swaine, who commanded the other boat, distinguished by the name of Hardwicke’s Island, after the noble earl of that title; towards which straits our course was now bent to the southward, trusting we should find a passage into them to the westward of point Mudge.

Little remains further to add respecting the station we had just quitted, but to state the general satisfaction that prevailed on leaving a region so truly desolate and inhospitable. During our stay at that gloomy place, I was enabled to take only ten sets of lunar distances; which, with six sets taken at our anchorage near the entrance of the sound, gave a mean result for the longitude 235° 5′ 30″. Kendall’s chronometer, by ten sets of altitudes taken on different days, shewed the mean result, allowing the Birch bay rate to be 235° 21′. This I considered to be nearer the truth than that deduced from the few lunar observations above mentioned, and have accordingly adopted it as the longitude of Desolation sound, whose latitude by six meridional altitudes of the sun was found to be 50° 11′. The mean result of eighteen sets of azimuths taken on board, differing from 17° 45′ to 23°, gave 19° 16′ easterly variation; seventeen sets taken on shore differed from 14° 26′ to 19° 30′, gave a mean result of 16° variation in the same direction. The irregularity of the tides was such that no correct inferences could well be drawn. They appeared to be principally influenced by local or incidental causes; possibly by the operation of both. They were greatly affected by the direction or force of the winds, which seemed as equally to act on the rise and the fall, as on the current when there was any. This, however, was not always the case; as in the course of some days there would not be the least perceptible stream; and in others a very rapid one, that generally continued in the same direction twenty-four hours, and sometimes longer. The time of high water was equally vague and undefinable; this I attributed to its insular situation, nearly at the extremity of the influence of two tides flowing from directly opposite points, causing their divided streams to act, according to the incidental circumstances that might operate upon them.

In this route we passed through the assemblage of islands and rocks lying at some distance before the entrance into Desolation sound; some of which presented an appearance infinitely more grateful than that of the interior country. These were mostly of a moderate height from the sea, tolerably well wooded, and the shores not wholly composed of rugged rocks, afforded some small bays bounded by sandy beaches. The wind continued light from the northern quarter, and the weather being serene and pleasant, made a most agreeable change. Numberless whales enjoying the season, were playing about the ship in every direction; as were also several seals; the latter had been seen in great abundance during our residence in Desolation sound, and in all the remote excursions of our boats, but they were so extremely watchful and shy, that not one could be taken. These animals seemed to have had the exclusive possession of the gloomy region we had just quitted; but the scene now before us was more congenial to our minds, not only from the different aspect of the shores, but from the attention of the friendly Indians, who, as we were crossing the gulf, visited us in several canoes, with young birds, mostly sea fowl, fish, and some berries, to barter for our trinkets and other commodities. Soon after mid-day we anchored about half a mile to the northward of point Mudge, in 37 fathoms water, on a bottom of black sand and mud. A very strong flood tide came from the northward, and although nearly convinced that our conjectures were right, the launch and cutter with lieutenant Puget and Mr. Whidbey, were immediately dispatched to examine the channel as to its communication with Johnstone’s straights; that in the event of there being any obstructions where such rapid tides were running, we might have sufficient notice, and be prepared to avoid them.

From the village situated on point Mudge, we were visited by several of the natives, who brought fish and the wild fruits of their country, which they exchanged for our European articles, in a very fair and honest manner.

After dinner, accompanied by Mr. Menzies and some of the officers, I went on shore to return the visit of our friends, and to indulge our curiosity. On landing at the village, which is situated a little to the N. W. within the promontory, and nearly at the summit of a steep sandy cliff, we were received by a man who appeared to be the chief of the party. He approached us alone, seemingly with a degree of formality, though with the utmost confidence of his own security, whilst the rest of the society, apparently numerous, were arranged and seated in the most peaceable manner before their houses. I made him such presents as seemed not only to please him excessively, but to confirm him in the good opinion with which he was prepossessed; and he immediately conducted us up to the village by a very narrow path winding diagonally up the cliff, estimated by us to be about an hundred feet in height, and within a few degrees of being perpendicular. Close to the edge of this precipice stood the village, the houses of which were built after the fashion of Nootka, though smaller, not exceeding ten or twelve feet in height, nearly close together in rows, separated by a narrow passage sufficiently wide only for one person. On the beach, at the foot of the cliff, were about seventy canoes of small dimensions, though amongst them were some that would carry at least fifteen persons with great convenience. On a computation, therefore, deduced from these and other circumstances, we were led to consider that this village, though occupying a very small space, could not contain less than three hundred persons. The spot where it was erected appeared to be well chosen to insure its protection; the steep loose sandy precipice secured it in front, and its rear was defended by a deep chasm in the rocks; beyond these was a thick and nearly impenetrable forest: so that the only means of access was by the narrow path we had ascended, which could easily be maintained against very superior numbers. Having gratified our curiosity, and, in return for the cordial attention of these friendly people, made our acknowledgments by presents of such trivial articles as we had about us, we took our leave of the village for the purpose of indulging ourselves before dark, with a refreshing walk, on a low margin of land extending from the more elevated woodland country, some distance along the water side to the northward; a luxury we had not for same time experienced. In this excursion, which was extremely grateful and pleasant, we saw two sepulchres built with plank about five feet in height, seven in length, and four in breadth. These boards were curiously perforated at the ends and sides, and the tops covered with loose pieces of plank, as if for the purpose of admitting as great a circulation of air as possible to the human bones they enclosed, which were evidently the relics of many different bodies. A few of the Indians attended us in our walk, picking the berries from the trees as we passed, and with much civility presenting them to us on green leaves. The evening approaching obliged us to return on board, against a very strong ebb tide.

The Chatham having been detained some hours in Desolation sound after we had sailed, had now arrived and anchored near us. She had been stopped by her anchor when nearly half up, hooking a rock; every means that could be devised had been resorted to without effect, until the moment when they were about to cut it away, it cleared itself, which fortunately saved the anchor and cable.

With a fresh breeze from the N. W. and a continuation of pleasant weather, at high water about three o’clock on the morning of Saturday the 14th, we were under sail, and with the assistance of the ebb tide, turned about four leagues up the inlet towards a commodious anchoring place, that had been discovered by our boats, and was the appointed rendezvous on the return of the launch and cutter. About six o’clock we arrived and anchored in 24 fathoms water, sandy bottom. In this situation each side of the arm formed a bay affording commodious anchorage; and that on the western side being the most extensive was preferred. Nearly in the centre is a shallow bank of sand, with a navigable passage all around it. The ships were stationed between this bank and the north side of the bay, near a small Indian village, whose inhabitants had little to dispose of, though they were very civil and friendly. Whilst turning up in the ship, many of the natives came off; but the swiftness of our motion prevented their coming on board.

The clearness of the sky and atmosphere enabled me to procure some observations, by which our latitude was ascertained to be 50° 7′ 30″. Ten sets of lunar distances, with those made in Desolation sound, amounting in all to twenty-six sets taken on different sides of the moon, brought forward by Kendall’s chronometer and the protraction, agreeing extremely well together; gave the mean result of the longitude by the lunar distances 15′ 15″ to the westward of the watch. On such authority, however, I could not possibly determine that the chronometer erred so materially; yet had reason to believe, that it was not gaining at the rate we had allowed since our departure from Birch bay. The true longitude, therefore, of the respective places hereafter mentioned, from Desolation sound to Nootka, will be deduced from such observations as I was enabled to make at the latter place for correcting the error of the chronometer; by which, according to the Birch bay rate, the longitude of our present rendezvous was 234° 57′; its true longitude, by subsequent observations, 234° 52½′; the variation of the compass by three sets of azimuths, 18° 30′ eastwardly.

From point Mudge to this bay the channel is nearly straight; the western shore is compact, the eastern one has some rocky islets and rocks lying near it; it is about half a league wide; in turning up we found not the smallest obstruction; and the shores are sufficiently bold for vessels to stand as close to them as inclination may direct. Immediately above this station the channel contracts to a short half mile, by the projecting land that forms the north sides of these two bays, and by an island on the eastern shore (navigable round for boats only) which projects so far as to reduce the channel to nearly one half its width. The tide, setting to the southward through this confined passage, rushes with such immense impetuosity as to produce the appearance of falls considerably high; though not the least obstruction of either rocks or sands, so far as we had an opportunity of examining it, appeared to exist. The returning tide to the north, though very rapid, does not run with such violence; this was estimated to move at the rate of about four or five miles; the other, at seven or eight miles per hour. They seemed regular in their quarterly change, but the visible rise and fall by the shore in this situation was so inconsiderable as to allow us merely to distinguish the ebb from the flood tide.

In the evening of the 14th our boats returned, having found the channel from these narrow parts gradually increasing its width to a mile, and half a league, and to communicate with Johnstone’s straits in nearly the same N. N. W. direction, about four leagues further, without any visible obstruction or impediment to the navigation. The eastern shore, like that to the northward, was much broken; the western shore continued firm, and afforded some small bays in which there was good anchorage. As they proceeded, not any inhabitants were seen, but, on returning, they met twenty canoes filled with Indians, who, at first, were a little distant, but at length approached our party with confidence, and with every appearance of civility and friendship.

These were observed to be more variously painted than any of the natives our gentlemen had before seen. The faces of some were made intirely white, some red, black, or lead colour; whilst others were adorned with several colours; and the generality had their hair decorated with the down of young sea fowl. In these respects they evidently approached nearer to the character of the people of Nootka, than of any other we had yet seen, either in the entrance of the straits of De Fuca, or in the gulf of Georgia.

The winds being too light and variable to command the ship against the influence of such rapid tides, we were under the necessity of waiting for the ebb in the afternoon of the following day, Sunday the 15th, when, with pleasant weather and a fresh breeze at N. W. we weighed about three o’clock, turned through the narrows, and, having gained about three leagues by the time it was nearly dark, we anchored on the western shore in a small bay, on a bottom of sand and mud, in 30 fathoms water, to wait the favorable return of tide. On Monday morning the 16th, with the assistance of a fresh N. W. wind, and the stream of ebb, we shortly reached Johnstone’s straits; passing a point which, after our little consort, I named Point Chatham, situated in latitude 53° 19½′, longitude 235° 45′. This point is rendered conspicuous by the confluence of three channels, two of which take their respective directions to the westward and south-eastward towards the ocean, as also by a small bay on each side; by three rocky islets close to the south, and by some rocks, over which the sea breaks to the north.

Immediately on our entering these straits, we were affected by more swell than we had experienced in this inland navigation, indicating that the ocean, in a westerly direction was not quite so remote as, by Mr. Johnstone, it had been estimated.

In the bay, to the north-westward of point Chatham, was situated an Indian village, from whence some of the natives attempted to give us their company; but the wind, blowing heavily in squalls, prevented their venturing alongside. After we had proceeded about ten miles from point Chatham, the tide made so powerfully against us as obliged us, about breakfast time, to become again stationary in a bay on the northern shore in 32 fathoms water. The land, under which we anchored, was a narrow island, which I distinguished by the name of Thurlow’s Island, it is about eight leagues long, and was passed to the northward by Mr. Johnstone in going, and to the S. E. on his return. The bay was observed to be in latitude 50° 23′, longitude 234° 32′; three sets of azimuths gave the variation 19° eastwardly; it affords good anchorage; and wood and water may be easily procured. Our efforts with the seine, though unremitted, were ineffectual, not having afforded us the least supply since our departure from Birch bay; nor, with the hooks and lines, had we been more successful. About four in the afternoon, we again proceeded, but made little progress against a fresh westerly gale. In the evening we passed another village, when the inhabitants, more knowing than their neighbours, embraced the opportunity of the ship being at stays, of selling a few small fresh salmon. They had some with them ready cooked, and they seemed to have great pleasure in throwing them on board as we passed their canoes. We anchored again about nine in the evening, on the southern shore, nearly abreast of the west end of Thurlow’s island, in 22 fathoms, sandy bottom; having gained, this tide, little more three leagues.

The wind blew strong from the westward, with squalls, during the night; and when we weighed, at three in the morning of Tuesday the 17th, we were obliged to ply, under double-reefed topsails, to windward, with little prospect of making much progress, until we had passed Thurlow’s and Hardwicke’s islands.

The meeting of these channels added great velocity to the tides; and, as the day advanced, the weather became fair and pleasant, which enabled us to spread all our canvass; yet we were very apprehensive of losing, by the adverse tide, all we had gained by the favorable stream; not having been able to reach the bottom with 100 fathoms of line, although repeated trials had been made, on traversing within a ship’s length of each shore. At last, about eleven, in a small bay on the southern side, soundings were gained at the depth of fifty fathoms, where we instantly anchored, about half a cable’s length from the rocks, to wait the return of the favorable current, not knowing by what name to call it. That which came from the eastward we had stiled the ebb; but, on going on shore to observe the latitude, the stream that came rapidly from the westward, appeared to be the reflux, as the water on the shore, during the afternoon, had evidently retired, though to no very great distance.

Our station here was nearly opposite the first opening on the northern shore, passed by unexamined by Mr. Johnstone; who had also declined visiting two others, apparently on the continent, further to the westward. Lieutenant Puget and Mr. Whidbey, were dispatched in the launch and cutter, in order to explore the former, lying from us N. 50 E.; about a league distant, with instructions to join me, in the ship, either in the third unexplored opening on the north side of the straits, or at the village where Maquinna was stated to be; it being my intention, that the Chatham should pursue the second opening, whilst I proceeded in order to procure an interview with Maquinna, through whom I might be able to inform Sen^r Quadra of the time he might expect to see us, and forward Sen^r Galiano’s letter.

In the afternoon we were visited by two canoes, having a musket, with all the necessary appurtenances in each. These were the first fire-arms we had seen from the ships, but, from the number Mr. Johnstone had seen in his late excursion, it would appear, that the inhabitants of this particular part are amply provided with these formidable weapons.

Having the tide in our favor, at four o’clock we quitted this station, the latitude of which was found to be in 50° 27′, longitude 235° 53′. At this time, it appeared to be low tide, the water having fallen, since my landing in the forenoon, nearly five feet; the stream was in our favor, though running at a very gentle rate, and the wind from the N. W. being very light, we advanced so slowly, that, by ten at night, we had only gained three leagues, where another small bay, or cove, was seen on the southern shore, with low land extending some distance from the mountains. Here I was in hopes of finding a commodious resting place, but was obliged to stand very near to the shore before soundings could be gained; at length, with forty fathoms of line, the bottom was reached, and on wearing, which the ship did very briskly, in order to anchor in a less depth of water, our next cast was ten fathoms, when the anchor was instantly let go; yet, before we had veered a third of the cable, the ship grounded abaft; but, on heaving in a few fathoms of the cable, she very easily swung off the bank. The Chatham grounded also, and was likewise got off with little difficulty.

At this station, it was again low water about four on Wednesday morning, or nearly so, as the inner part of the bank on which we had grounded, and at that time was covered with water, was dry at no great distance from us. We again proceeded, with the current in our favor, to the westward; and on passing two small villages of the natives, a few of the inhabitants, from each, paid us their respects. At this time we were nearly abreast of the second opening, passed by unexamined by Mr. Johnstone. It appeared infinitely more capacious than the other, which, agreeably to my former intentions, Mr. Broughton was directed to pursue, appointing the same rendezvous with him, that had been fixed for the boats.

We remained under sail the whole day, but made so little way, that by nine at night, we had advanced about five leagues only. Then, in a small bay, close to the rocks on the southern shore, we again anchored, in forty-five fathoms water, sandy bottom.

Light variable winds prevented our sailing until eight in the morning of Thursday the 19th, when, with a gentle breeze from the eastward, we weighed; and, what was not a little extraordinary, without heaving the least strain on the cable, on fishing the anchor, its lower arm was discovered to be broken off close to the crown, and to have been left at the bottom. On further examination, it proved to have been just welded round the surface, so as barely to hold the parts together, within which the bars, composing the internal mass, preserved their original unaltered shape, distinctly separate from each other; and, in the spaces remained the blacksmith’s coal, without any appearance of their having undergone the action of fire.

Whilst we remained inactive the fore part of the morning, our time was not unprofitably employed, in receiving the welcome visits of some hospitable friends from the shore; who brought us such an abundant supply of fresh salmon, that we purchased a sufficient number to serve the crew as long as they would keep good; which was a great relief from our salted provisions, being a luxury we had not lately experienced.

We had not long been under sail, when the officers, who had been dispatched in the boats on the 17th, arrived on board. From these gentlemen I became acquainted, that they had examined the inlet to which they had been directed. Off its western point lies a small island; its entrance is about half a mile wide, but with no more than four fathoms water in mid-channel; from whence it extends about eight miles, in a direction N. 75 E.; this depth however increased as they advanced, to five, six, and seven fathoms, affording good anchorage about two thirds of the way up: beyond which limits, like all the channels of this kind that we had explored, it terminated in shallow water. The country bore a more pleasing aspect than that seen from Johnstone’s straits; and the soil, where they landed, at the upper part, was composed of black mould and sand, producing pine trees of large dimensions. They saw one run of water at the head; but the shoal stretching from thence, prevented their ascertaining its qualities; yet as a deserted village was observed half way up on the northern shore, in all probability this place is not destitute of wholesome water, the only undiscovered requisite to constitute it a very snug and commodious port; to which I gave the name of Port Neville.

The weather was serene and pleasant, but the wind so light and variable, that, although we were not more than four leagues from the village where we expected to meet Maquinna; it was not until past ten at night that we reached that station, when we anchored just without the sandy island, in seven fathoms water.

The next morning shewed the village in our neighbourhood to be large; and, from the number of our visitors, it appeared to be very populous. These brought us the skins of the sea otter, of an excellent quality, in great abundance, which were bartered for sheet copper, and blue cloth; those articles being in the highest estimation amongst them. Most of these people understood the language of Nootka, though it did not appear to be generally spoken.

The Ty-eie, or chief of the village, paid us an early visit, and received from me some presents which highly delighted him. I understood his name to be Cheslakees. He acknowledged Maquinna to be a greater chief; as he also did Wicananish; but, so far as I could learn, he did not consider himself to be under the authority of either.

On inquiring if Maquinna was at the village, he answered in the negative, saying they seldom visited; and that it was a journey of four days across the land to Nootka sound, which from hence towards the S. S. W. is about twenty leagues distant.

Accompanied by some of the officers, Mr. Menzies, and our new guest Cheslakees, I repaired to the village, and found it pleasantly situated on a sloping hill, above the banks of a fine fresh-water rivulet, discharging itself into a small creek or cove. It was exposed to a southern aspect, whilst higher hills behind, covered with lofty pines, sheltered it completely from the northern winds. The houses, in number thirty-four, were arranged in regular streets; the larger ones were the habitations of the principal people, who had them decorated with paintings and other ornaments, forming various figures, apparently the rude designs of fancy; though it is by no means improbably, they might annex some meaning to the figures they described, too remote, or, hieroglyphical, for our comprehension. The house of our leader Cheslakees was distinguished by three rafters of stout timber raised above the roof, according to the architecture of Nootka, though much inferior to those I had there seen in point of size; the whole, from the opposite side of the creek, presented a very picturesque appearance.

On our landing, three or four of the inhabitants, only, came down to receive us at the beach; the rest quietly remained near their houses. These, Cheslakees informed me, were his near relations, who consequently received, in the shape of presents, compliments from me, with which they seemed greatly pleased.

The houses were constructed after the manner at Nootka, but appeared rather less filthy, and the inhabitants were undoubtedly of the same nation, differing little in their dress, or general deportment. Several families lived under the same roof; but their sleeping apartments were separated, and more decency seemed to be observed in their domestic economy, than I recollected to be the practice at Nootka. The women, who in proportion appeared numerous, were variously employed; some in their different household affairs, others in the manufacture of their garments from bark and other materials; though no one was engaged in making their woollen apparel, which I much regretted. The fabrication of mats for a variety of purposes, and a kind of basket, wrought so curiously close, as to contain water like an earthen vessel without the least leakage or drip, comprehended the general employment of the women, who were not less industrious than ingenious.

As inquiries into the laudable ingenuity of others are not to be satisfied in the civilized world without some expence, so investigations of the like nature amongst the uncultivated regions were not to be had in this society without due acknowledgments, which were solicited by these female artizans in every house we entered; and so abundant were their demands, that although I considered myself amply provided for the occasion with beads, hawk’s bells, and other trinkets, my box, as well as my pockets, and those of the gentlemen who were of the party, were soon nearly emptied. At the conclusion of this visit we were entertained at the house of an elderly chief, to whom Cheslakees, and every other person paid much respect, with a song by no means unmelodious, though the performance of it was rendered excessively savage, by the uncouth gestures, and rude actions accompanying it, similar to the representations I had before seen at Nootka. The song being finished, we were each presented with a strip of sea otter skin; the distribution of which occupied some time. After this ceremony a song from the ladies was expected; and during this interval, I observed in the hands of the numerous tribe that now surrounded us, many spears pointed with iron, clubs, large knives, and other weapons with which they were not furnished on our first approach to the village. I was not altogether satisfied with this change in their appearance, though I had every reason to believe their intentions were of the most inoffensive nature, and that it was most probable they had thus produced their arms to shew their wealth, and impress us with an idea of their consequence: I deemed it, however, most advisable to withdraw; and having distributed the few remaining articles we had reserved, Cheslakees was informed I was about to return; on which he, with his relations who had attended us through the village, accompanied us to the sandy island, whither I went to observe its latitude.

Some few others of the Indians attended us on this occasion, whose behaviour being orderly and civil, they were permitted to assemble round me whilst observing. They were excessively amused with the effect of the sun’s rays through the reading glass; and the extraordinary quality of the quicksilver used for the purpose of an artificial horizon, afforded them the greatest entertainment, until our business was ended, when they in a very friendly manner took leave, and confirmed me in the opinion, that the martial appearance they had assumed, was purely the effect of ostentation.

In most of the houses were two or three muskets, which, by their locks and mounting, appeared to be Spanish. Cheslakees had no less than eight in his house, all kept in excellent order: these, together with a great variety of other European commodities, I presumed, were procured immediately from Nootka, as, on pointing to many of them, they gave us to understand they had come from thence, and in their commercial concerns with us, frequently explained, that their skins would fetch more at Nootka than we chose to offer. Their total number we estimated at about five hundred. They were well versed in the principles of trade, and carried it on in a very fair and honourable manner. Sea otter skins were the chief objects of our people’s traffic, who purchased nearly two hundred in the course of the day. Mr. Menzies informed me, that these had been procured at least an hundred per cent. dearer than when he visited the coast on a former occasion, which manifestly proved, that either a surplus quantity of European commodities had been since imported into this country, or more probably, that the avidity shewn by the rival adventurers in this commerce, and the eagerness of an unrestrained throng of purchasers from different nations, had brought European commodities into low estimation. Iron was become a mere drug; and when we refused them fire-arms and ammunition, which humanity, prudence, and policy directed to be with-held, nothing but large sheets of copper, and blue woollen cloth engaged their attention in a commercial way; beads and other trinkets they accepted as presents, but they returned nothing in exchange.

These were the principal circumstances that occurred to me on our short visit to this station. The further and more general observations, that fell under my notice respecting the very extraordinary region we had lately passed through, and which were not noticed in the narratives of the several parties were employed in exploring it, I shall now briefly state, with such reflections as were consequent thereon.

The length of coast from point Mudge to this station, about thirty-two leagues, forms a channel which, though narrow, is fair and navigable; manifested by the adverse winds obliging us to beat to windward every foot of the channel, and to perform a complete traverse from shore to shore through its whole extent, without meeting the least obstruction from rocks or shoals. The great depth of water not only here, but that which is generally found washing the shores of this very broken and divided country, must ever be considered as a very peculiar circumstance, and a great inconvenience to its navigation. We however found a sufficient number of stopping places to answer all our purposes, and, in general, without going far out of our way. In coming from the westward, through Johnstone’s straits, the best channel into the gulf of Georgia in thick weather might, though not easily, be mistaken. Such error however may be avoided, by keeping the southern shore close on board, which is compact, and so steep, that it may be passed within a few yards in the greatest safety; indeed I have every reason to believe the whole of the passage to be equally void of dangers that do not evidently shew themselves. The height of the land that composes these shores and the interior country, has been already stated to decrease as we proceeded westward. The land on the southern side, which is an extensive island, appeared to be the most elevated, composed of very lofty mountains, whose summits, not very irregular, were still in some places covered with snow. The northern side, for a considerable distance, seemed less elevated, and the intire forest that covered its surface, might have favored the belief of great fertility, had we not known that pine trees innumerable are produced from the fissures and chasms of the most barren rocks, of which, we had great reason to suppose, the whole of the country before us was composed. Its low appearance may possibly be occasioned by its being much divided by water, as we evidently saw, through an opening, about four miles only to the westward of that appointed for our rendezvous, a much greater space so occupied, than that which comprehended these straits. Our general view to the northward, was, however, bounded by a mountainous country, irregular in the height of its eminences, and some of them capped with snow. The retired hills of the most eastern part of the straits, were, as we passed, so obscured by the high steep rocky cliffs of the shores, that we were unable to describe them with any precision. As the elevation of the northern shore decreased, I was in expectation of seeing a continuation of that lofty and connected range of snowy mountains, which I have repeatedly had reason to consider, as the insurmountable barrier to any extensive inland navigation. Herein I was disappointed, as this lofty structure either decreases in its vast degree of elevation, or it extends in a more inland direction.

The residence of all the natives we had seen, since our departure from point Mudge, was uniformly on the shores of this extensive island, forming the southern side of Johnstone’s straits, which seems not only to be as well inhabited as could be expected in this uncultivated country, but infinitely more so, than, we had reason to believe, the southern parts of New Georgia were. This fact established, it must be considered as singularly remarkable, that, on the coast of the opposite or continental shore, we did not discover even a vestige of human existence, excepting the deserted villages! This circumstance, though it countenances the idea of the original inhabitants of the interior country having migrated, fallen by conquest, or been destroyed by disease; still leaves us unable to adduce any particular reason as the cause of this evident depopulation. The width of the passage scarcely any where exceeding two miles, can hardly have induced the inhabitants of the northern side, to quit their dwellings for a residence on the opposite shore, merely for the purpose of being that small distance nearer to the commerce of the sea coast. On regarding the aspect of the two situations, and on reflecting that the winter season under this parallel must be severe and inclement, it appears reasonable to suppose, that any human beings, not restrained in fixing their abode, would not hesitate to choose the very opposite side to that which is here preferred, where, in general, their habitations front a bleak northern aspect, with mountains rising so perpendicularly behind them, that, if they do not totally, they must in a great measure, exclude the cheering rays of the sun for some months of the year. The northern side labours not under this disadvantage, and enjoying the genial warmth denied to the other, at certain seasons, most probably, possesses the requisites necessary to their present mode of life, at least in an equal degree; especially, as this country has, in no instance, received the advantages of cultivation. This would appear to be the situation of choice, the other of necessity; for the same source of subsistence, which is evidently the sea, affords equal supplies to the inhabitants of either shore. And that there was a time, when they resided on both, is clearly proved, by their deserted habitations, yet in existence, on the northern shore.

As neither Maquinna, nor any of his people, were at this village, I intrusted to the brother of a man named Kaowitee, who seemed next of importance to Cheslakees, the letter I received from Sen^r Galiano, as also one from myself, to be forwarded to Sen^r Quadra at Nootka, which this man undertook to deliver, on the promise of being handsomely rewarded for his service.

The sandy island, by my observations, is situated in latitude 50° 35½′, longitude 232° 57′; the variation of the compass here being 20° 45′ eastwardly.

Having replaced our broken anchor with a new one from out of the hold, which had employed the whole of the preceding day, about ten in the forenoon of Saturday the 21st we proceeded with a favorable breeze from the westward, to the appointed rendezvous, that lies from the sandy island N. 89 E. at the distance of about fourteen miles, where, at three in the afternoon, we anchored in twenty fathoms water, sandy bottom, about a cable’s length from the shore, of a similar nature to those already described.

Wishing to acquire some idea of the probable extent of this opening, I left the ship after dinner, and was not a little surprized to find it communicate with the extensive space of water, to the north of the channel or straits already mentioned, making the land under which we were at anchor, an island about a league and a half long, nearly in a direction N. 70 W. with many rocky islets and rocks lying about its western extremity, some along its north side, and others off the east end. Northward of this island, and a chain of others which lie to the westward of it, an arm of the sea, not less than four or five leagues across, stretched westward towards the ocean, where the horizon, in that direction, appeared to be intercepted only by a few small islands; the eastern and northern shores seemed wholly composed of rocky islands and rocks, and presented in their examination a very laborious task, to ascertain the continental boundary. But as this important line had been already determined to the entrance of an opening, not more than three leagues to the eastward of our present station, now under the survey of Mr. Broughton in the Chatham, and as a branch of this opening to the eastward of us took a direction that way through a multitude of islands, any investigation of this broken country was rendered unnecessary, until I should understand how far the Chatham had been able to succeed in fixing the continuation of the continental shore.

Our very inactive, unpleasant situation, whilst we anxiously waited the arrival of our consort, was somewhat relieved by the visits of a few Indians from the southern shore of the straits, who brought us a small supply of fish, very acceptable, being unable to obtain any by our own efforts. Among the number of our visitors we were honoured with the company of Cheslakees, with whose importunities for various articles I had with pleasure complied. He remained on board most part of the day; and as he sat at my elbow whilst writing, saw me frequently advert to a small memorandum book, which he managed to take away in the most dexterous manner, unperceived. Having occasion for its use, and knowing no other person had been near me, the purloiner could not be mistaken. A Sandwich island mat which I had given him, he had contrived to fold up in a very small compass, and in the centre of it was the missing book. He appeared somewhat ashamed at the detection, but more mortified at my taking away the presents he had received; these were however, about two hours afterwards restored, on his contrition, and penitential application. Stealing a book, incapable of being in the least degree serviceable to him, or useful to any other person than the owner, strongly marked that natural inordinate propensity to thieving, which, with few exceptions, influences the whole of the uncivilized world, as if impelled by mere instinct, and destitute of reason, they were unable to restrain such inclinations.

Without any occurrence of an interesting nature, we remained uncomfortably idle until the arrival of Mr. Broughton in the afternoon of Friday the 27th, who came on board in his cutter, the Chatham having been obliged, by adverse winds, to anchor the preceding evening three leagues to the westward of our rendezvous.

Mr. Broughton informed me, that after he had entered the opening he had been sent to examine, the eastern point of which is situated in latitude 50° 32′, longitude 233° 32′, he found it take an irregular course towards the N. E. passing a narrow branch leading to the westward. This opening, about a mile in width, occupied their attention until sun-set, when they anchored at its head in 35 fathoms water, and found it to terminate like the many others already described, in latitude 50° 42½′, longitude 234° 3½′: which, after Sir John Call, was named Call’s Channel. On the evening of the next day they reached the narrow branch leading to the westward, which lies from their last place of anchorage S. 68 W. about four leagues distant. Here the Chatham stopped for the night in 17 fathoms water, near a small village of the natives, who brought them an abundance of fresh salmon. Mr. Broughton examined this narrow branch, and found it communicating with an arm of the sea in latitude 50° 43′, longitude 233° 33′, just navigable for the Chatham; and with the assistance of a strong flood tide, and their boats, they passed it the next morning, through a channel that continued for about half a league, not a hundred yards wide. The shallowest water, from three fathoms, gradually increased to seven fathoms, as they approached the arm of the sea, which is about two miles wide, and extends in an east and west direction. Here the Chatham anchored, and Mr. Broughton pursued its eastern course in his boat along the continental shore, leaving a branch leading to the northward, near the entrance of which are two islands and some rocks. This arm of the sea continued a little to the northward of east, six leagues, to the latitude of 50° 45′, where its width increased to near a league, taking an irregular northerly direction to its final termination in latitude 51° 1′, longitude 234° 13′. To this, after Captain Knight of the navy, Mr. Broughton gave the name of Knights’ Channel. The shores of it, like most of those lately surveyed, are formed by high stupendous mountains rising almost perpendicularly from the water’s edge. The dissolving snow on their summits produced many cataracts that fell with great impetuosity down their barren rugged sides. The fresh water that thus descended gave a pale white hue to the channel, rendering its contents intirely fresh at the head, and drinkable for twenty miles below it. This dreary region was not, however, destitute of inhabitants, as a village was discovered a few miles from its upper extremity, which seemed constructed like that described in Desolation sound, for defence; the inhabitants were civil and friendly. Near this place Mr. Broughton joined the Chatham on the morning of the 23d, and proceeded in her towards the branch above mentioned, leading to the northward. This in the evening he reached, and anchored for the night in 75 fathoms water. The next morning its course was pursued about three leagues towards the N. E. where this direction terminated in latitude 50° 51½′, longitude 233° 49′, from whence it irregularly stretched to the N. W. and westward. Inhabitants were still found on these inhospitable shores, who brought fish and skins of the sea otter to sell, demanding in return blue great coats. A passage through this channel was accomplished on the 25th, notwithstanding the wind was very fickle and blew hard in squalls, attended with much lightning, thunder, and rain: the night was nearly calm, gloomy, and dark; and not being able to gain soundings, although within thirty yards of the rocky shores, they were driven about as the current of the tides directed, and happily escaped, though surrounded on all sides by innumerable rocks and rocky islets. On the 26th, the boundary of the continent was determined to a point, which, from its appearance and situation, obtained the name of Deep Sea Bluff, in latitude 50° 52′, longitude 232° 29′. This station Mr. Broughton judged to be as far to the westward as the appointed rendezvous; and for the purpose of repairing thither, directed his course to the south-westward, through a channel that bore every appearance of leading to the sea, as had been understood from the natives. With the assistance of a fresh gale from the N. E. he shortly arrived at its southern entrance, which presented the opening I had seen on the day we arrived at this station. Across it his course was directed to the southward, leaving between his present track and the route he had pursued to the northward, an extensive cluster of islands, rocky islets, and rocks. These, in commemoration of his discovery, I distinguished by the name of Broughton’s Archipelago.

Whilst at this station, I had an opportunity of observing the latitude by five meridional altitudes of the sun to be 50° 35′, its longitude 233° 19′. The variation of the compass, differing in eight sets of azimuths from 18° 30′ to 23° 53′, shewed a mean result of 20° 5′, eastwardly variation. The tides were irregular, on some days being very rapid, on others scarcely perceptible; the rise and fall, the time of high water, and other fluctuations and irregularities, I attributed, as already stated, to the influence of the winds, and the operation of other local causes on this insulated region.

With a fresh breeze from the E. N. E. we directed our course to the westward, on the morning of Saturday the 28th, in order to proceed to the northward round the west end of this island. The channel through which we passed, though very unpleasant on account of the many rocks in it, is infinitely less dangerous than that to the eastward of the island, which is by no means advisable for ships to attempt.

We had not been long under weigh before we were joined by the Chatham, and steered to the northward for the channel leading to Deep Sea bluff, which I called Fife’s Passage. As we crossed the main arm the squally hazy weather permitted our seeing, but very imperfectly, the several islands and rocks that it contains. About two o’clock in the afternoon, we entered Fife’s passage, and found its eastern point (named by me, after Captain Duff of the royal navy, Point Duff) situated in latitude 50° 48′, longitude 233° 10′. A small rocky island lies off point Duff, covered with shrubs; and off the west point of this passage, named Point Gordon, bearing N. 83 W. from point Duff, are several white flat barren rocks lying at a little distance from the shore. Although the tide appeared to be in our favor, we made so little progress in this inlet, that we were compelled to anchor at five in the afternoon not more than two miles within the entrance, in 20 fathoms water, on the northern shore, near some small rocky islets. The shores that now surrounded us were not very high, composed of rugged rocks steep to the sea, in the chasms and chinks of which a great number of stunted or dwarf pine trees were produced. Some few of the natives favored us with their company, but brought little to dispose of; these were not quite so much painted as the Indians of Cheslakees’ village, nor did they seem in the least acquainted with the Nootka language.

On Sunday morning the 29th, about nine, we were under sail, with a light favorable breeze, sufficient to have carried us at the rate of near a league per hour; yet the ship remained stationary and ungovernable, not answering to her helm in any direction. In this very unpleasant and disagreeable situation, attributed by us to a kind of under tow, or counter tide, we continued until near dark, when a most powerful breeze springing up, we reached Deep Sea bluff, and anchored about eleven at night in a small opening on its western side in 70 fathoms water; having passed a more extensive one to the south of this, which took its direction to the N. W. On the next day, Monday the 30th, this appeared a very small branch of the sea; and as it was now manifest there was no certainty in confiding in appearances, directions were given that both vessels should be removed higher up near to a convenient spot for recruiting our wood and water; whilst, in the yawl, I proceeded to examine whither this arm was likely to lead. It continued about four miles from Deep Sea bluff to the north-eastward, then stretched to the westward, and terminated behind the hill under which the vessels were at anchor, about two miles to the westward of them, forming a narrow isthmus, over which we walked, and had a distinct view of the opening before mentioned, extending to the westward. Being perfectly satisfied on this head, I returned, and found the vessels at the appointed station, riding in 30 fathoms water near the western shore, conveniently situated for procuring the only supplies this dreary region seemed likely to afford. But, as tolerably secure anchorage was not on all occasions to be found, I determined the vessels should remain stationary here, whilst the boats explored the broken country before us; which promised to furnish other passages, into the great western channel we had quitted, and bore every appearance of leading to the Pacific Ocean.

The Discovery’s yawl, launch and cutter, were ordered to be equipped, and in readiness to depart at day-light the next morning. Mr. Broughton accompanied me, attended by lieutenant Puget in the launch, and Mr. Whidbey in the cutter. On Tuesday the 31st, at sun-rise, our little squadron put off with intention of following up the continental shore, until we might find a more western passage leading to the sea; there to appoint a rendezvous for the launch and cutter, which were to continue the examination of the continental boundary, whilst we returned to conduct the vessels to the appointed station.

From Deep Sea bluff, the shore of the main, across this small opening, took a direction N. 50 W. for about four miles; then extended N. N. E. about a league to a point, where the arm took a more easterly course, passing an island, and several rocky islets, forming passages for boats only; whilst, to the westward of the island, the main channel was a mile in width, and no doubt was entertained of our there finding a greater depth of water than we required for the vessels. We were however obliged to quit the direction of that which appeared, and afterwards proved to be the main channel, to pursue the continental line along this, which apparently led to the N. E. and eastward. In this route, a poor unfortunate deer, that seemed to have eluded the pursuers, had found an asylum in a small recess on the rocky precipice forming the shore, about twenty yards in a direction almost perpendicular to the water, from whence he could only escape by the way he had come. In this very exposed situation, the two headmost boats passed him unnoticed; but, on the third making the discovery, a platoon of muskets was discharged at the defenceless animal by the whole party without effect. On this a seaman landed, and, with a boat-hook, dragged him from the rocks by the neck, and secured to us this valuable acquisition. Upwards of twenty muskets on this occasion were fired, seven of which hit him, but no one mortally; or wounded him in such a manner as to have prevented his escaping, had not the overhanging precipices of the rocks rendered it impossible. Venison had long with us been a scarce commodity; our buck proved excellent, and afforded us all one or two excellent fresh meals.

We pursued the examination of this arm to its head in latitude 51°, longitude 233° 46′; where it terminated in a similar way to the many before described. Its shores, about a mile apart, were composed of high steep craggy mountains, whose summits were capped with snow; the lower cliffs, though apparently destitute of soil, produced many pine trees, that seemed to draw all their nourishment out of the solid rock. The water, near four leagues from its upper end, was of a very light chalky colour, and nearly fresh. From its shores two small branches extended, one winding about four miles to the S. E. and S. W. the other about a league to the N. N. W. The examination of this branch employed us until noon the next day, Wednesday the 1st of August 1792 August, when we pursued that which appeared to be the main channel leading to the westward, having several rocky islets and rocks off its north point of entrance. This I called Point Philip, lying N. 56 W. from Deep Sea bluff, at the distance of not more than eight miles. So tardy was our progress in fixing the boundary of this broken continental shore, which we traced from point Philip, about two leagues in the direction of N. 78 W. when it again became divided into various channels. The most spacious one, leading to the south-westward, presented an appearance of communicating with the sea. The shores, on all sides, were high, steep and rocky; though they seemed tolerably well clothed with pines of different sorts.

We kept the continental shore on board through a very intricate narrow branch that took a direction E. by N. for near two leagues, and then terminated as usual at the base of a remarkable mountain, conspicuous for its irregular form, and its elevation above the rest of the hills in its neighbourhood. This I have distinguished in my chart by the name of Mount Stephens, in honour of Sir Philip Stephens of the Admiralty. It is situated in latitude 51° 1′, longitude 233° 20′, and may serve as an excellent guide to the entrance of the various channels with which this country abounds.

As we prosecuted our researches, we visited a small Indian village situated on a rocky islet. The whole of it was nearly occupied, well constructed for its protection, and rendered almost inaccessible by platforms similar to that before described though not so strong, nor so ingeniously designed. The inhabitants did not exceed thirty or forty persons, who exactly corresponded with those seen to the southward of Deep Sea bluff, and from whom we met with, as usual, a very cordial reception. A few indifferent sea otter skins, for which they demanded more iron than we were inclined to give, comprehended all their stock in trade; they had a distant knowledge of a few words of the Nootka language, but did not always seem properly to apply them. The narrow passage by which we had entered, is a channel admissible for boats only; and thence, to the foot of mount Stephens, was merely a chasm in the mountains, caused, probably, by some violent efforts of nature. This idea originated in its differing materially in one particular from all the channels we had hitherto examined; namely, in its having regular soundings, not exceeded the depth of 13 fathoms, although its shores, like all those of the channels which had no bottom within the reach of line, were formed by perpendicular cliffs, from their snowy summits to the water’s edge.

The stupendous mountains on each side of this narrow chasm, prevented a due circulation of air below, by excluding the rays of the sun; whilst the exhalations from the surface of the water and the humid shores wanting rarefaction, were, in a great measure, detained, like steam in a condensed state; the evaporation thus produced a degree of cold and chillness which rendered our night’s lodging very unpleasant.

We quitted this unwholesome situation, at the dawning of the next day, Thursday the 2d, and directed our course through another passage, which, from the northern shore, led about a league to the westward, and then turned to the south. This channel is excessively dangerous, owing to the number of rocky islets, sunken rocks, and, by the tides setting through it with great rapidity and irregularity. By breakfast time we reached the opening leading to the south-westward, about half a league from the village we had visited the preceding day. Here I intended to conclude my excursion as soon as a place of rendezvous for the vessels and boats should be found; in quest of which we proceeded down the opening leading to the south-westward; which I called Wells’s Passage; this now seemed, on a certainty, to communicate with the great channel, which we supposed to lead to sea. But another branch soon appearing, that stretched a little to the south-westward of west, I was in hopes my object would have been further attained, by finding some more westerly station for our rendezvous than the end of Wells’s passage. In this hope we continued our examination about two leagues, leaving some part of the shore to the north of us, not fully explored. On landing to dine about the time of high water, we soon perceived a rapid ebb tide coming from the westward. This rendered a communication with the ocean in that direction, if not impossible, at least very improbable; and as the time its examination was likely to engage from its apparent extent, might render my design ineffectual, I determined to return, leaving the launch and cutter to carry on the survey. Our future meeting I appointed near the west point of Wells’s passage; this, after Captain Boyles of the navy, I named Point Boyles; it is situated in latitude 50° 51′, and in longitude 232° 52′.

About one o’clock the next day, Friday the 3d, we arrived on board, and immediately proceeded with the vessels towards the rendezvous, but so slowly that it was not till the evening of Saturday the 4th, that we arrived within two leagues to the S. E. of it. There the boats joined us, and the want of wind obliged us to anchor in 60 fathoms water, on the S. W. side of a low island, about half a league from its shores, bearing by compass from N. 42 E. to N. 38 W.; point Duff N. 87 E.; the land of the southern shore from S. 50 E. to S. 22 W.; a high island appearing to lie nearly in mid-channel, from S. 55 W. to S. 64 W.; and point Boyles N. 84 W.; having many rocky islets and rocks in view, too numerous to be here noticed.

I now became acquainted, that the officers had returned, as directed, to the examination of the continental shore from the place where I had quitted it, and on pursuing it to the southward, they had found it indented with small bays, that afforded, like the narrow arm before mentioned, snug and convenient anchorage; but the passages into them were intricate and dangerous, owing to the strong currents, and the many rocky islets, and sunken rocks, in their neighbourhood. The arm, leading to the westward, that I had been in, was traced to the latitude of 50° 59′, longitude 232° 36′. In it were many rocky islands and sunken rocks; which, with the velocity of the tide, rendered it dangerous, even for the navigation of boats. Near its termination, they pursued a very narrow opening on its northern shore, winding towards the E. N. E. replete with overfalls and sunken rocks, and ending by a cascade similar to several that had before been observed. These are perfectly salt, and seem to owe their origin to the tidal waters, which, in general, rise seventeen feet, and, at high water, render these falls imperceptible, as the bar or obstruction, at that time, lies from four to six feet beneath the surface of the sea, and consequently at low water causes a fall of ten or twelve feet; some of which are twenty yards in width. One of these Mr. Whidbey ascended nearly at low water, and found the internal reservoir to be a small lake, or rather a large pond, seemingly of deep water, divided into several branches, winding some distance through a low, swampy, woodland country. These salt-water cascades may probably be occasioned by the great rapidity of the tides, after they have risen above these obstructions, (acting with considerable pressure) and rushing forward in those inland narrow channels, where they soon overflow the plain, and, finding an extensive field for their expansion, a sufficient quantity of water, with the addition of the drains and springs of the country, is thus collected, to replenish these reservoirs every twelve hours, and to cause a constant fall during the reflux of the tide. Within a few yards of one of these cascades was discovered a considerable stream of warm fresh water.

By this expedition, the continental shore was traced to the westernmost land in sight. We had now only to proceed along it, as soon as the wind and weather would permit our moving. This, however, a thick fog and a calm prevented, until the afternoon of Sunday the 5th, when a light breeze between S. W. and west enabled us, by sun-set, to advance about two leagues to the westward of point Boyles, which, by compass, bore from us S. 85 W.; an island, previously considered to lie in mid-channel, but now discovered to be divided into four or more islets, S. 38 E.; the most distant part of the opposite shore south, four or five leagues off; and the nearest taken by us to be an island, W. S. W. about a league. These positions are not, however, to be received as correct, because the fog, still continuing, alternately obscured place after place, in the southern quarters, so as to render it impracticable either to acquire the true position, or even gain a distinct view of those shores. The northern, or continental side, was not in the like manner obscured; its nearest part bore by compass north about half a league from us; and its western extremity, N. 78 W. Between this point and a cluster of islands, bearing west, a channel appeared to lead along the coast of the main land, in which were some small islets and rocks; south of the cluster, the haze and fog rendered it impossible to determine of what that region principally consisted, though the imperfect view we obtained, gave it the appearance of being much broken. In this situation, we had 60 and 70 fathoms, muddy bottom; but as we had sufficient space to pass the night in under sail, I preferred so doing, that we might be ready to pursue the above-mentioned channel in the morning.

The wind continuing light in the S. W. quarter, we plied until day-break of Monday 6th, when the breeze was succeeded by a calm, and a very thick fog that obscured every surrounding object until noon, without our being able to gain soundings; so that we were left to the mercy of the currents, in a situation that could not fail to occasion the most anxious solicitude. The fog had no sooner dispersed, than we found ourselves in the channel for which I had intended to steer, interspersed with numerous rocky islets and rocks, extending from the above cluster of islands towards the shore of the continent. The region to the S. W. still remained obscured by the fog and haze; at intervals, however, something of it might be discerned, serving only to shew there was no great probability of our finding a less intricate passage to navigate, than that immediately before us along the continental shore; which must either be now traced by the ship, or by the boats, on a future occasion. This made me determine on the former mode, although there was reason to apprehend it would engage our utmost attention, even in fair weather to preserve us from latent dangers. The dispersion of the fog was attended by a light breeze from the N. N. W., and as we stood to windward, we suddenly grounded on a bed of sunken rocks about four in the afternoon. A signal indicating our situation was immediately made to the Chatham, she instantly anchored in fifty fathoms water, about a cable and a half distant from us, and we immediately received all her boats to our assistance. The stream anchor was carried out, and an attempt made to heave the ship off, but to no effect. The tide fell very rapidly; and the force with which the ship had grounded, had occasioned her sewing considerably forward. On heaving, the anchor came home, so that we had no resource left but that of getting down our topmasts, yards, &c. &c. shoaring up the vessel with spars and spare topmasts, and lightening her as much as possible, by starting the water, throwing overboard our fuel and part of the ballast we had taken on board in the spring. Soon after the ship was aground, the tide took her on the starboard quarter; and as she was afloat abaft it caused her to take a sudden swing, and made her heel so very considerably on the starboard side, which was from the rocks, that her situation, for a few seconds, was alarming in the highest degree. The shoars were got over with all possible dispatch, but notwithstanding this, by the time it was low water, the starboard main chains were within three inches of the surface of the sea. Happily, at this time, there was not the smallest swell or agitation, although we were in the immediate vicinity of the ocean. This must ever be regarded as a very providential circumstance, and was highly favorable to our very irksome and perilous situation, in which, under the persuasion of the tide falling as low as had been lately observed in our several boat expeditions, nothing short of immediate and inevitable destruction presented itself, until towards the latter part of the ebb tide, when more than one half of the ship was supported by such a sufficient body of water, as, in a great measure, to relieve us from the painful anxiety that so distressing a circumstance necessarily occasioned. When the tide was at the lowest, about nine at night, the ship’s fore-foot was only in about three and a half feet water, whilst her stern was in four fathoms.

In this melancholy situation, we remained, expecting relief from the returning flood, which to our inexpressible joy was at length announced by the floating of the shoars, a happy indication of the ship righting. Our exertions to lighten her were, however, unabated, until about two in the morning of Tuesday the 7th; when the ship becoming nearly upright, we hove on the stern cable, and, without any particular efforts, or much strain, had the inexpressible satisfaction of feeling her again float, without having received the least apparent injury. We brought up in 35 fathoms water, about a quarter of a mile from the bed of rocks from whence we had so providentially escaped. After about three hours rest, all hands were employed in the re-equipment of the ship. The main top-gallant top-rope unluckily broke, and by this accident, John Turner, a seaman, had his arm fractured. By noon, the hold was restowed, and the ship, in every respect, ready again to proceed.

A light breeze springing up from the S. W. about one o’clock, we were again under sail, and knowing of no safer channel, we directed our course through that before us, along the continental shore. This was a narrow passage, and as we advanced, became more intricate by an increased number of rocky islets and rocks, as well beneath, as above the surface of the water; the former being ascertained by the surf breaking with some violence upon them. This dangerous navigation seemed to continue as far as was discernible towards the ocean, between the shore of the continent and the land forming the opposite side of the channel, which appeared to be an extensive range of islands.

Having so recently been preserved from the dangers of a most perilous situation, the scene before us, in presenting a prospect of many such snares, was extremely discouraging. We had, however, not the least hope of finding a less difficult way for the execution of the adventurous service in which we were engaged; nor any alternative but to proceed with all the circumspection and caution that the nature of our situation would permit, through a channel not more than half a mile wide, bounded on one side by islands, rocks, and breakers, which in some places appeared almost to meet the continental shore on the other. However intricate, this was apparently the only navigable channel in the neighbourhood. About five in the afternoon we had fortunately escaped through its narrowest part; the wind now became light and baffling; the ebb tide sat us towards the ocean, where we had a view of the distant horizon, although intercepted by the same rocky region that surrounded us in every direction. About six o’clock some of its hidden dangers arrested the progress of the Chatham. We instantly anchored in seventy fathoms water, and sent our boats to her assistance. Thus, before we had recovered from the fatiguing exertions and anxious solicitude of one distressing night, the endurance of a similar calamity was our portion for the next.

I had less reason at first to hope for the preservation of the Chatham under the circumstances of her disaster, than I had the preceding night for that of the Discovery; as the oceanic swell was here very perceptible, and caused a considerable surf on the shore. On the return of our small boat, I became acquainted that, in consequence of its having fallen calm, she had been driven by the tide on a ledge of sunken rocks, but had the consolation of hearing, that although she had frequently struck when lifted by the surge, it had not been violently; that no damage had yet been sustained; and that her present very uncomfortable situation could not be of long duration, as it was nearly half ebb when she grounded.

Our present anchorage bore by compass from the rocks, on which the Discovery had struck, though intercepted by various others, S. 42 E. five miles, and from the ledge of rocks on which the Chatham was then lying, S. 61 E. three miles distant. Our estimated latitude was 51° 2′, longitude 232° 25′. Since the commencement of the month of August, the foggy weather had totally precluded our making any celestial observations; the situation therefore of the islands, coasts, rocks, &c. westward from Deep Sea bluff, could only be ascertained by an estimated protraction, which may be liable to errors we had no means to detect; hence this portion of intricate navigation is not to be implicitly depended upon in this particular, as exhibited by the chart; but the continued direction of the continental shore, (the nearest part now bearing by compass N. E. at the distance of about half a league) was positively ascertained to this station; and I trust, its latitude and longitude will not be found to deviate many miles from the truth.

The rocks between our present anchorage and the ocean having the appearance of being almost impenetrable, Mr. Whidbey was dispatched to discover the most safe channel for us to pursue. The day-light just served him to execute his commission; and on his return at night he informed me, that there were three passages; one nearly through the centre of the rocks; another about midway between the continental shore, and a very broken country to the southward of us; and a third between the nearest cluster of rocks and the continent. This for a small distance seemed to be clear; but further to the north-westward a labyrinth of rocks appeared to stretch from the continent towards land, forming like two islands. These rocks nearly joined to the north-easternmost about nine miles from us, bearing by compass N. 50 W. the westernmost at about the same distance, N. 64 W.

The nearest cluster of rocks, whose southern part was almost in a line with the easternmost island, not quite a league from us, we were to pass to the south of; between them and other rocks and rocky islets, to the westward and S. W. forming a channel about two miles wide, in which no visible obstruction had been discovered by Mr. Whidbey. These rocks and rocky islets presented an appearance of being as nearly connected with the southern broken shore, as those further north did with the continent, giving us little to expect but a very intricate and hazardous navigation.

An extremely thick fog ushering in the morning of the 8th, precluded our seeing or knowing any thing of the Chatham’s situation; and obliged us to remain in the most painful state of suspense until about nine in the forenoon, when the fog in some measure dispersing, we had the satisfaction of seeing our consort approaching us under sail; and having a light southerly breeze, with the ebb tide in our favor, we immediately weighed in order to proceed together through the channel before mentioned between the rocks.

On the return of the boats, Lieutenant Baker, who had been with our people assisting the Chatham during the night, informed me that latterly she had struck so hard, as intirely to disable both the spare topmasts, which had been used for shoars; but that about half past one they succeeded in heaving her off, without the appearance of her having sustained any very material damage. Our sails were scarcely set when the wind became variable; and soon after mid-day partial fogs and a clear atmosphere succeeded each other in every direction. These by one o’clock obliged us again to anchor in fifty-five fathoms water, as did the Chatham about two miles to the northward of our former station, and within a quarter of a mile of the continental shore. Here we were detained until nine the following morning of Thursday the 9th, when with a light eastwardly breeze, and clear weather, we directed our course as before stated. On passing near the rocks on the eastern side of the channel, we had soundings at the depth of twenty-eight fathoms, rocky bottom; but immediately afterwards gained no ground with sixty and seventy fathoms of line. As it was my intention to seek a channel between the two islands, the Chatham’s signal was made to lead. The wind being light we advanced slowly, passing some very dangerous rocks, whose situation was only to be known by the breakers upon them at low tide, lying about two miles to the S. E. of the north-easternmost island.

Though clear immediately overhead, the horizon was encumbered with partial fogs in every direction. This rendered the view of surrounding objects not less limited than undefined, and prevented such observations being made, as were necessary for ascertaining our positive situation. About noon we were becalmed between these islands, whose shores are about two miles and a half asunder: soundings were obtained at the depth of seventy fathoms, rocky bottom. They lie from each other about north and south; the southernmost is about a league in circuit, with a small island lying off its eastern extremity. The northernmost, instead of being one island, as had been supposed, was now found to comprehend eight or nine small islets, lying in a direction about N. 50 W. and occupying in that line an extent of four miles; their breadth about half, or perhaps three quarters of a mile. With the assistance of the boats a-head, we passed through this channel about one o’clock. At this time a light breeze springing up from the north-westward, we stood towards the southern shore; it was not however, as was usual with the north-westerly winds, attended with clear and pleasant weather, but with a remarkably thick fog; and having no soundings we were obliged to ply to windward under an easy sail until about five o’clock, when we gained bottom, and anchored in fifty-five fathoms water. The fog soon after cleared away, and discovered our situation to be near the southern shore, before a small opening at the distance of about a mile. This by compass bore S. 7 W.; a channel that appeared to stretch to the S. E. through the range of islands to the southward of that we had navigated, bore S. 80 E. and seemed tolerably clear of those dangers and impediments with which we had lately contended. The southernmost of the islands we had passed at noon bore by compass N. 7 E. at the distance of about a league; and the north-westernmost of the islets, N. 8 W. distant about two leagues; a low point of land forming the south point of an opening on the continental shore N. 14 W. a high distant mountain being the northernmost land in sight N. 30 W. and the westernmost land on the southern shore S. 55 W. Between these latter directions the oceanic horizon seemed perfectly clear and uninterrupted.

We now appeared to have reached the part of the coast that had been visited and named by several of the traders from Europe and India. The Experiment, commanded by Mr. S. Wedgborough, in August, 1786, honoured the inlet through which we had lately passed, with the name of “Queen Charlotte’s Sound;” the opening on the continental shore was discovered, and called “Smith’s Inlet,” by Mr. James Hanna, the same year; the high distant mountain that appeared to be separated from the main land, formed part of a cluster named by Mr. Duncan “Calvert’s Islands;” and the channel between them and the main land, was by Mr. Hanna called “Fitzhugh’s Sound.” These being the names given, as far as I could learn, by the first discoverers of this part of the coast, will be continued by me, and adopted in my charts and journal.

Destitute of any other authority, our estimated latitude in this situation was 51° 4′ longitude 232° 8′. In the evening I visited the shores, and found the opening take a winding southerly direction, dividing the land most probably into two or more islands. Westward of the opening a sandy beach stretched along the coast, and afforded tolerably good shelter, with anchorage from six to twenty fathoms depth of water. Some detached rocks were observed to lie at a little distance from these shores.

Having a fine breeze from the eastward on the morning of Friday the 10th, we weighed at seven, and stood across Queen Charlotte’s sound for the entrance of Smith’s inlet. The Chatham being ordered to lead, at half past ten made the signal for soundings, at the depth of ten to eighteen fathoms. In this situation the island, near which the Chatham had grounded, bore S. 43 E. distant about six or seven leagues; and the labyrinth of rocks that before had appeared to extend along the continental shore, now seemed to exist no further than a low sandy point bearing by compass E. S. E. at the distance of about two leagues. The shores of the main from this point seemed free from rocks, and possessed some small sandy bays to the south point of entrance into Smith’s inlet, which bore by compass N. 18 W. about a league distant; where detached rocks were again seen to encumber the shore.

The weather, less unfavorable to our pursuits than for some time past, permitted our having a tolerably distinct view of the surrounding country. The opening before us, Fitzhugh’s sound, appeared to be extensive in a northerly direction. At noon we found our observed latitude to be 51° 21′, longitude 232° 4′. In this situation, the south point of Calvert’s island bore by compass N. 29 W. its westernmost part in sight N. 60 W. two clusters of rocks S. 73 W. and N. 70 W. these were discovered by Mr. Hanna, who named the former “Virgin,” the latter “Pearl Rocks,” both which being low, and at some distance from the shore, are dangerously situated. The south point of Smith’s inlet terminating the continental shore in a north-westwardly direction, bore by compass S. 40 E. from which the Virgin rocks, about thirteen miles distant, lie N. 75 W. and the Pearl rocks N. 38 W. distant about eight miles.

Intending to continue the investigation of the continental shore up Smith’s inlet, the Chatham was directed that way; but as we advanced, the great number of rocky islets and rocks, as well beneath as above the surface of the sea, and the irregularity of the soundings, induced me to abandon this design, and to steer along the eastern side of Calvert’s island, forming a steep and bold shore, in quest of “Port Safety,” laid down in Mr. Duncan’s chart, or of any other convenient anchorage we might find; and from thence to dispatch two parties in the boats, one to prosecute the examination of the broken shores to the south-eastward of us, the other to explore the main branch of Fitzhugh’s sound leading to the northward. In consequence of this determination, the necessary signal was made to the Chatham for quitting her pursuit; and we made all sail to the northward.

On passing that which we had considered as the south point of Calvert’s island, it proved to be two small islets lying near it; and from the southernmost of them, the Virgin and Pearl rocks in a line lie S. 68 W. the former eleven, and the latter four miles distant.

As we proceeded up this sound, the eastern shore still continued to be much divided by water; towards the sea it was of moderate height, though the interior country was considerably elevated; the whole was apparently one intire forest of pine trees produced from the chasms in the rugged rocks of which the country is formed. The western, or shore of Calvert’s islands is firm, and rose abruptly from the sea to a very great height, seemingly composed of the same rocky materials, and like the eastern shore, intirely covered with pine trees. About four in the afternoon of Saturday the eleventh, a small cove was discovered on the western shore, bearing some resemblance to Mr. Duncan’s port Safety, but differing in its latitude according to our run since noon. Appearing however likely to answer all our purposes, we hauled in for it; the shores we found to be bold, steep on either side, and soundings at the entrance were from twenty-three to thirty fathoms, soft bottom. We anchored about six in the evening in seventeen fathoms on the south side of the cove, as did the Chatham on the opposite shore, steadying the vessels with hawsers to the trees. My first object after the ship was secured, was to examine the cove. It terminated in a small beach, near which was a stream of excellent water and an abundance of wood: of these necessaries we now required a considerable supply; and as the field of employment for our boats would be extensive, there was little doubt of our remaining here a sufficient time to replenish these stores. Being tolerably well sheltered in this cove, I was willing to hope the Chatham might with security, and without much difficulty, be laid on shore to examine if she had sustained any damage whilst striking on the rocks.

After giving directions for the execution of these services, I ordered the yawl, launch, and two cutters belonging to the Discovery, and the Chatham’s cutter to be equipped, supplied with a week’s provisions, and to be in readiness to depart early the next morning. The boats being prepared and supplied, agreeably to my wishes, we departed about five o’clock; and having proceeded together nearly into the middle of the sound, I directed Lieutenant Puget and Mr. Whidbey, in the Discovery’s launch and large cutter, to examine the coast we had left unexplored to the south-eastward, from the termination of the continent in its N. W. direction, to a certain point on the eastern shore, where Mr. Johnstone, in the Chatham’s cutter, attended by Mr. Humphreys in the Discovery’s small cutter, would commence his inquiry. Conceiving the northern survey would be infinitely more extensive than that to the south, I joined Mr. Johnstone’s party, in order to fix on a rendezvous where, agreeably to my proposed plan, he would on his return find the vessels, or they would be on their way from the cove to the place so appointed.

Our separation had scarcely taken place, when our southerly breeze freshened to a brisk gale, attended by a torrent of rain. The wind however having favored our pursuit, we reached the eastern shore about five miles to the northward of the cove where the ships rode. It was low but compact, with one small opening only, impassable for our boats by breakers extending across it. On the western side two conspicuous openings had been observed; the southernmost had the appearance of being a very fine harbour; the other, about two leagues further north, formed a passage to sea, in which were several rocky islets. About noon we arrived at the point where Mr. Johnstone’s researches were to commence, nearly in the direction of north from the ships, and at the distance of about sixteen miles. From this point, the north point of the passage leading to sea, lies S. 39 W. four miles distant; but the thick rainy weather prevented our seeing any objects that were to the northward. Increased torrents of rain, and thick stormy weather from the S. E. obliged us to take shelter in the first safe place we could discover, which presented itself in a small cove, about a mile from the point above mentioned, where we were very unpleasantly detained until near noon the following day, Sunday the 12th, when the wind having moderated, and the rain in some degree abated, we resumed our examination along the starboard or continental shore, extending from the above point about a league and a half in a north direction. Here the inlet divided into two capacious branches; that which appeared to be the principal one still continued its northerly course, the other stretched E. N. E. and was in general about a mile wide. In order to prosecute the survey of the continental shore, which I presumed this to be, the latter became the first object of our examination, for which we quitted the former, whose width we estimated at a league. The intermission of the rain was for a short time only; at three in the afternoon it again returned with such squally and unpleasant weather, that we were necessitated, at six, to take up our abode for the night on a long sandy beach, about eight miles within the entrance of this eastern branch. In the S. E. corner of this beach was the largest brook of fresh water we had yet seen on the coast. It bore a very high colour, and emptied itself into the sea with considerable velocity. Here the mountains, which appeared to be a continuation of the snowy barrier from mount Stephens, retired a small distance from the beach, and the low land, occupying the intermediate space, produced pine trees of inferior growth, from a bed of moss and decayed vegetables in the state of turf, nearly as inflammable as the wood which it produced. A continuation of the unpleasant weather confined us to this uncomfortable spot until the afternoon of Monday the 13th; when, about four, we again proceeded up the branch, which, from the beach, took a direction N. by E.; the furthest point seen in that line was at the distance of about three leagues; this, after passing an extensive cove on the starboard side, we reached about nine at night. Excepting this cove, and that we had just before left, no other was seen; the sides of this channel were composed of compact, stupendous mountains, and nearly perpendicular, rocky cliffs, producing pine trees to a considerable height above the shores, and then nearly barren to their lofty summits, which were mostly covered with snow.

During the night we had much rain; the next morning, Tuesday the 14th, the weather was cloudy, with some passing showers, which at intervals enabled us to obtain a tolerably distinct view of the region before us; and for the first time, since the commencement of this expedition, it shewed the branch we were navigating to be about two miles wide, extending in a N. E. by E. direction, several leagues a-head. I had been in continual expectation of finding that the larboard shore would prove to be an island, in which case, on the return of the launch and cutter, the vessels should have been removed to its northern extremity, and by that means the return of the boats that were still to proceed, would be materially shortened; but, seeing little reason to indulge this hope any longer, I appointed a rendezvous with Mr. Johnstone, a little to the south of the entrance into this arm; where, on his return, he would find the vessels, or they would be on their way thither; and, after bidding him farewell, returned on my way towards the ships.

By noon we had reached the entrance of this branch of the inlet, where, on a small islet near its south point, I observed the latitude to be 51° 52′, making the station at which I had parted with Mr. Johnstone, and which I had concluded to be the continental shore, in latitude 52° 3′, longitude 232° 19′. This rendezvous was about 37 miles from the station of the vessels, in as desolate inhospitable a country as the most melancholy creature could be desirous of inhabiting. The eagle, crow, and raven, that occasionally had borne us company in our lonely researches, visited not these dreary shores. The common shell fish, such as muscles, clams, and cockles, and the nettle samphire, and other coarse vegetables, that had been so highly essential to our health and maintenance in all our former excursions, were scarcely found to exist here; and the ruins of one miserable hut, near where we had lodged the preceding night, was the only indication we saw that human beings ever resorted to the country before us, which appeared to be devoted intirely to the amphibious race; seals and sea otters, particularly the latter, were seen in great numbers.

Having dined, and dedicated a short interval of sun-shine to the drying of our wet clothes, we made the best of our way towards the ships; where, about midnight, we arrived, most excessively fatigued; the inclemency of the weather having, on this occasion, been more severely felt than in any of our former expeditions.

The same very disagreeable weather had prevailed during our absence, attended with much more wind than we had experienced. From the S. W. the gale had blown particularly hard, which caused the most grateful reflections for our having providentially reached so comfortable a place of shelter, from the dangers that must necessarily have awaited our navigating, in such tempestuous weather, the intricate and unexplored region we had so recently quitted.

During our absence, a sufficient quantity of salmon had been taken, for every person on board the vessel; the necessary supplies of wood and water were nearly completed; but the rise and fall of the tide had not been equal to our wishes for the purpose of grounding the Chatham, without landing the greater part of her stores and provisions; and, as the bottom at low tide was found to be soft mud, unfavourable to such an operation, that business was necessarily deferred.

The weather, though clear at intervals for a short time, continuing very boisterous, filled our minds with much solicitude for the welfare of our friends in the boats; particularly those detached to the S. E. who were greatly exposed not only to its inclemency, but to the violence of the sea, which, from an uninterrupted ocean, broke with great fury on the southern shores. One consolation, however, always attended my anxious concern on these perilous occasions, that, in the exposure of my people to such fatiguing and hazardous service, I could ever depend on their cheerful and ready obedience to the prudent and judicious directions of the officers who were intrusted with the command of these adventurous expeditions.

Friday, the 17th. Whilst we thus remained under much concern for the safety of our detached parties, we were suddenly surprized by the arrival of a brig off the entrance of the cove, under English colours. A sight so uncommon, created a variety of opinions as to the cause that would induce any vessel in a commercial pursuit, (for so she appeared to be employed) to visit a region so desolate and inhospitable. Our suspense, however, was at an end on the return of Lieutenant Baker, who informed me she was the Venus belonging to Bengal, of 110 tons burthen, commanded by Mr. Shepherd, last from Nootka, and bound on a trading voyage along these shores; that having found the price of skins so exorbitant on the sea coast, he had been induced to try this inland navigation, in the hope of procuring them at a less extravagant price. By him we received the pleasant tidings of the arrival of the Dædalus store-ship, laden with a supply of provisions and stores for our use; and he acquainted Mr. Baker that Sen^r Quadra was waiting with the greatest impatience to deliver up the settlement and territories at Nootka. But, as fortune too frequently combines disastrous circumstances with grateful intelligence, Mr. Shepherd had brought with him a letter from Mr. Thomas New, master of the Dædalus, informing me of a most distressing and melancholy event. Lieutenant Hergest the commander, Mr. William Gooch the astronomer, with one of the seamen belonging to the Dædalus, had been murdered by the inhabitants of Woahoo, whilst on shore procuring water at that island. A circumstance so much to be deplored, and so little to be expected, was sincerely lamented by us all, and sincerely felt by myself, as Mr. Hergest had, for many years, been my most intimate friend; he was a most valuable character; and I had ever esteemed him as a man not less deserving my respect than intitled to my regard. The loss of Mr. Gooch, though I had not the pleasure of his acquaintance, would unavoidably be materially felt in the service we had to execute during the ensuing part of our voyage. For although Mr. Whidbey, with the assistance of some of our young gentlemen, relieved me of considerable labour, by attending to nautical astronomy; yet, for the purpose of expediting this arduous service on which we were employed, the absence both of Mr. Whidbey and myself frequently became necessary, whilst the ships remained stationary for some days, in situations where many opportunities might occur of making various astronomical observations on shore. Although we were compelled to appropriate such time to those pursuits as were indispensibly requisite to determine the position of different points, promontories and stations, yet we had little leisure for making such miscellaneous observations as would be very acceptable to the curious, or tend to the improvement of astronomy.

The weather was less disagreeable and boisterous the next morning, Saturday the 18th, when, to our great satisfaction, the launch and cutter returned, without having met with any accident, although infinitely fatigued by the severity of the weather, with which they had so long contended.

The entrance into Smith’s inlet was nearly closed by rocky islets, some producing shrubs and small trees, others none; with innumerable rocks as well beneath as above the surface of the sea, rendering it a very intricate and dangerous navigation for shipping. Within the islets and rocks the northern shore appeared the clearest; but the opposite side could not be approached without some difficulty, not only from the numerous rocks, but from a great oceanic swell occasioned by the prevailing tempestuous weather. From the entrance into the inlet, whose north point lies from its south point N. 20 E. about a league distant, they found it extend, nearly in an east direction, about six leagues; here it took a turn to the north-eastward, and terminated in latitude 51° 24′, longitude 232° 47½′. About three leagues within the entrance, the rocks and islets ceased to exist, and the inlet contracted to a general width of about half a mile; though, in particular places, it was nearly twice that distance from shore to shore; both of which were formed by high rocky precipices covered with wood.

About half way up the channel a village of the natives was discovered, which our gentlemen supposed might contain two hundred or two hundred and fifty persons. It was built upon a detached rock, connected to the main land by a platform, and, like those before mentioned, constructed for defence. A great number of its inhabitants, in about thirty canoes, visited our party, and used every endeavour they thought likely to prevail on them to visit their habitations. They offered the skins of the sea otter and other animals to barter; and beside promises of refreshment, made signs too unequivocal to be misunderstood, that the female part of their society would be very happy in the pleasure of their company. Having no leisure to comply with these repeated solicitations, the civil offers of the Indians were declined; and the party continued their route back, keeping the northern or continental shore on board. On the 16th they entered another opening, about a league to the north of the north point of Smith’s inlet. The entrance into this seemed less dangerous than the former; it had, however, on its southern side, many rocky islets and rocks; but they discovered no one below the surface of the water, nor any danger that could not easily be avoided; and, by keeping on the north side of the entrance, which is about half a league across, a fair navigable passage was found about half a mile wide, between the north shore and the rocky islets that lie off its southern side. Along this the continent was traced about a league, in an east direction, where the opening took its course N. 15 E. about 16 miles, and terminated in latitude 51° 42′, longitude 232° 22′. About a league and a half south of this station, a small branch extends about four miles to the W. N. W.; and, half a league further south, another stretches about the same distance to the N. E.

In this inlet, which I have distinguished by the name of Rivers’s Channel, the land continued of a more moderate height, further up, than had generally been found to be the case: but where it branched off in the above directions towards its head, the shores were composed of high steep rocky mountains, and, like Smith’s inlet, and many, other channels of this kind that we had examined, afforded no soundings in the middle with 80 fathoms of line; though in the bays, found in most of them, anchorage may, in all probability, be procured. Having finally examined these branches, they returned, by a very narrow intricate passage on the northern shore, leading through an immensity of rocky islets and rocks, until they reached Point Addenbrooke, and again arrived on the eastern shore of Fitzhugh’s sound; making the land they had passed, in going up this last inlet, on their larboard side, an island about six or seven miles long. The continental shore, abreast of this station, having been so far ascertained, their supply of provisions being exhausted, and being greatly fatigued by the inclement weather, they returned on board without proceeding agreeably to my original design to the northern extremity allotted to their examination. The further labour, however, of this party, I deemed unnecessary, having become perfectly satisfied as to the intermediate space. Every thing was therefore directed to be taken from the shore, that we might sail in the morning towards the rendezvous I had appointed with Mr. Johnstone.

Since my return from the last boat expedition, I had fortunately obtained, during the few short intervals of fair weather that had occurred, some tolerably good observations for the latitude and longitude of this station. The former, by three meridional altitudes of the sun, appeared to be 51° 32′, the latter, 232° 3′ 15″: the variation of the compass, 17° 7′ eastwardly. This cove is at its entrance, the points of which lie from each other N. 30 W. and S. 30 E., about a quarter of a mile wide; and from thence, to its head, in a direction S. 68 W., about a mile. A small rock and two rocky islets lie off its north point of entrance. It undoubtedly bore some resemblance at first to Mr. Duncan’s port Safety; but on reference to particulars, differed very materially. Mr. Duncan places port Safety in latitude 51° 41′; and in his sketch takes no notice of the above-mentioned islets and rocks. By him port Safety is recommended as a very proper place for cleaning and refitting vessels; and he says, that the opposite shore is not more than six or seven miles distant. We however found the opposite shore within a league of us; and at the entrance of the cove, instead of 100 fathoms, as stated by Mr. Duncan, we had only 30 fathoms water; decreasing gradually to its head, the whole a soft muddy bottom, and consequently very improper for the operations of cleaning or repairing vessels. Notwithstanding this manifest disagreement, there were those amongst us, who having heard Mr. Duncan’s discourse on this subject, insisted upon the certainty of its being his port Safety. In this opinion however, I could not concur, for the obvious reasons above stated, and was more inclined to suppose, that the opening I had seen when in the boats on this shore, to the south of that which led to sea, was Mr. Duncan’s port Safety, as that corresponded nearer in point of latitude, and had more the appearance of a port than this small cove: it however is the first place that affords safe and convenient anchorage on the western shore, within the south entrance into Fitzhugh’s sound, and proved a comfortable retreat to us from the dangerous situations to which we had so recently been exposed. Hence I have distinguished it by the name of Safety Cove; and have only further to add, that the rise and fall of the tide was about ten feet, and that it is high water at the time the moon passes the meridian. The same circumstances respecting the tides were observed by those employed in the boat excursions from this station.

In the morning of Sunday the 19th, we sailed out of Safety cove, having for the first time since the commencement of the present month, a pleasant breeze from the S. E. with serene and cheerful weather. About eleven o’clock we had the gratification of being joined by our other boat party; and from Mr. Johnstone I learned, that about four miles to the N. E. of the spot where I had quitted them, they pursued a narrow branch of the inlet winding to the south and south-westward, to the latitude of 50° 57′, due south of the place of our separation. The inclemency of the weather detained them in this situation until the 16th, when they pursued the main branch of the inlet, which is from one to two miles broad, in a north-easterly direction, to a point which I called by the name of Point Menzies, after Mr. Menzies who had accompanied me, and afterwards Mr. Johnstone, in this excursion; here the inlet divides into three branches, each nearly as wide as that they had navigated. The first led to the N. W. the second to the northward, and the other to the south. Several leagues to the S. W. of point Menzies, the water had assumed a pale white colour, and was not very salt, which had encouraged them to push forward in constant expectation of finding its termination; but on reaching the above station, all hopes intirely vanished of carrying their researches further into execution, having extended their excursion beyond the time I had prescribed, and the period for which they had been supplied with provisions. These on the morning of the 17th, being nearly expended, Mr. Johnstone considered it most prudent to decline any further investigation, and to return to the ships. These they reached two days afterwards, almost exhausted with hunger and fatigue.

The country they had visited differed in no one respect from the general appearance we had long been accustomed to, nor did any thing occur to vary the continual sameness, or chequer the dreary melancholy scene before them, if we except their finding near the conclusion of their examination, a canoe about forty feet long, hauled up by the side of a miserable hut, near which was the remains of a fire still burning; indicating the vicinity of some human beings, for whom they left in the canoe some copper, nails, and other trifles; these on their return were found in the same state, without any appearance of the canoe or hut having been visited in their absence; but concluding the natives could not be far removed, they added a few more articles to their former donation. The soil in this place was principally composed of roots, leaves, and other decayed vegetable matter, and the fire that had been kindled, had caught this substance, and made considerable progress on the surface.

Had Mr. Johnstone found a termination to the inlet under his examination, I should have proceeded up the main arm of this sound to the northward along the shore of the continent, in quest of a more northerly passage to sea; but as that had not been effected, I pursued that which I had seen from the boats leading to the westward through Calvert’s islands; being now resolved, in consequence of the intelligence I had received from Nootka, to abandon the northern survey of the continental shore for the present season. This I had otherwise intended to have continued at least a month longer; but as the distressing event of Mr. Hergest’s death necessarily demanded my presence in the execution of His Majesty’s commands at Nootka, I determined to repair thither immediately. This determination favored also another design I much wished to execute, namely, that of extending the examination of the coast this autumn, southward from cape Mendocino, to the southernmost point of our intended investigations in this hemisphere. Having the greatest reason to be satisfied with the result of our summer’s employment, as it had by the concurrence of the most fortunate circumstances enabled us finally to trace and determine the western continental shore of North America, with all its various turnings, windings, numerous arms, inlets, creeks, bays, &c. &c. from the latitude of 39° 5′, longitude 236° 36′, to point Menzies, in latitude 52° 18′, longitude 232° 55′; we took our leave of these northern solitary regions, whose broken appearance presented a prospect of abundant employment for the ensuing season, and directed our route through the passage above mentioned, in order to make the best of our way towards Nootka.

Having on Sunday the 19th directed our course towards a passage, which appeared to lead to the ocean as stated in the last chapter, its N. E. point of entrance was found to be situated in latitude 51° 45′, longitude 232° 1′; south of this point lies a sunken rock, which though near the shore is dangerous, being visible at low tide only by the surf that breaks upon it. In turning into the channel we must have passed twice very near it, but did not discover it until we were some distance beyond it; and had not light baffling winds retarded our progress, it would have escaped our notice. From the point above mentioned the passage extends S. 60 W. about seven miles; its northern shore is composed of rocky islets and rocks, with some scattered rocks lying off its southern shore: between these and the rocky islets is the passage, generally from one to two miles wide, without any apparent obstruction, yet it is rendered unpleasant by the want of soundings, as within 50 and 100 yards of the shore, on either side, no bottom could be obtained, with 150 fathoms of line. In this very disagreeable situation we were detained by faint unsteady winds until eleven at night, when, by the assistance of a light breeze from the S. E. we reached the ocean, and stood to the south-westward.

The next morning, Monday the 20th, was very unpleasant; fresh squalls from the S. E. attended with thick rainy weather, continued until noon the following day, Tuesday the 21st, when it cleared up, and we saw Scot’s island, bearing S. 22 E. about seven leagues distant. The wind during the day was light and variable, though attended with fair weather; in the evening it seemed fixed at S. S. W. when, not being able to pass to windward of Scot’s islands, our course was directed to the north of them, towards cape Scot, having soundings and a soft muddy bottom at the depth of eighty and ninety fathoms, until about nine in the evening, when the water suddenly shoaled from sixty to seventeen fathoms, and the bottom became rocky. On this we instantly stood back to the westward, lest we should approach some danger, but we did not perceive either breakers or shoals, although the night was still and clear. These soundings were from the westernmost of Scot’s islands N. 18 E. about five leagues; from this circumstance, and from the distant rocks and shoals we saw extending from the shores of Calvert’s islands, it is highly necessary that the space between Calvert’s and Scot’s islands should be navigated with great caution.

We were detained about Scot’s islands by light variable winds until Friday the 24th, when we passed to the south of them, and continued to the eastward along their southern shores.

The westernmost of them is situated in latitude 50° 52′ longitude 231° 2′. The group consists of three small and almost barren islands, with many small rocks and breakers about them. West from the westernmost of them, a ledge of rocks extends about two miles, and south of it is another about a league distant. The easternmost of Scot’s islands being much larger than the rest, may probably be the same to which Mr. Hanna gave the name of “Cox’s island;” by others of the traders it has been represented as a part of the main; this is certainly wrong, and as Mr. Hanna’s chart is very erroneous, even in point of latitude, no certain conclusion can be drawn.

The wind, which was from the westward, was so light, that it was not until the forenoon of Saturday the 25th, that we passed the N. W. point of the large island, which forms the south and western shores of the gulf of Georgia and Queen Charlotte’s sound. This point (called by former visitors “Cape Scott”) is situated in latitude 50° 48′, longitude 231° 40′, and with the easternmost of Scot’s islands, forms a passage which appears to be about four miles wide. About cape Scot the land is composed of hills of moderate height, though to the south-eastward it soon becomes very mountainous, and at the distance of three or four leagues appeared to be much broken and to form many inlets, coves, and harbours, all the way to Woody point, which we passed in the afternoon within the distance of about two miles; it is situated in latitude 50° 6′, longitude 232° 17′. West from it lies a small rocky islet about half a league distant, and another larger one lying N. 28 W. about a league from the north part of the point, which is an extensive and projecting promontory.

From Woody point as we sailed along the shore to the eastward, we saw several openings in the land, which was about three or four miles from us, that appeared like coves and harbours. Innumerable rocky islets and rocks lined the shores, which as we advanced became low, but the country behind swelled into hills of considerable height divided by many valleys; beyond these it rose to mountains so elevated, that even at this season of the year many patches of snow were yet undissolved.

As I intended to ascertain the outline of the coast from hence down to Nootka; at dark we brought to, about six leagues to the eastward of Woody point, in expectation of accomplishing this design the following day, but in this I was disappointed; the N. W. wind was succeeded by light winds, which continued until the afternoon of Tuesday the 28th, and prevented in the present instance my acquiring such authority as I deemed necessary for delineating this part of the coast.

Foggy weather during the forenoon precluded us the advantage of steering for Nootka with the favorable wind that prevailed from the N. W. but on its clearing away about two we steered for that port. On reaching its entrance we were visited by a Spanish officer, who brought a pilot to conduct the vessel to anchorage in Friendly cove, where we found riding his Catholic Majesty’s brig the Active, bearing the broad pendant of Sen^r Don Juan Francisco de la Bodega y Quadra, commandant of the marine establishment of St. Blas and California.

The Chatham, by the partial clearing of the fog, had found her way in some time before us: the Dædalus store-ship, and a small merchant brig called the Three Brothers of London, commanded by Lieutenant Alder of the navy, were also there at anchor.

As Sen^r Quadra resided on shore, I sent Mr. Puget to acquaint him with our arrival, and to say, that I would salute the Spanish flag, if he would return an equal number of guns. On receiving a very polite answer in the affirmative, we saluted with thirteen guns, which were returned, and on my going on shore accompanied by some of the officers, we had the honour of being received with the greatest cordiality and attention from the commandant, who informed me he would return our visit the next morning.

Agreeably to his engagement, Sen^r Quadra with several of his officers came on board the Discovery, on Wednesday the 29th, where they breakfasted, and were saluted with thirteen guns on their arrival and departure: the day was afterwards spent in ceremonious offices of civility, with much harmony and festivity. As many officers as could be spared from the vessels with myself dined with Sen^r Quadra, and were gratified with a repast we had lately been little accustomed to, or had the most distant idea of meeting with at this place. A dinner of five courses, consisting of a superfluity of the best provisions, was served with great elegance; a royal salute was fired on drinking health to the sovereigns of England and Spain, and a salute of seventeen guns to the success of the service in which the Discovery and Chatham were engaged.

Maquinna, who was present on this occasion, had early in the morning, from being unknown to us, been prevented coming on board the Discovery by the centinels and the officer on deck, as there was not in his appearance the smallest indication of his superior rank. Of this indignity he had complained in a most angry manner to Sen^r Quadra, who very obligingly found means to sooth him; and after receiving some presents of blue cloth, copper, &c. at breakfast time he appeared to be satisfied of our friendly intentions: but no sooner had he drank a few glasses of wine, than he renewed the subject, regretted the Spaniards were about to quit the place, and asserted that we should presently give it up to some other nation; by which means himself and his people would be constantly disturbed and harassed by new masters. Sen^r Quadra took much pains to explain that it was our ignorance of his person which had occasioned the mistake, and that himself and subjects would be as kindly treated by the English as they had been by the Spaniards. He seemed at length convinced by Sen^r Quadra’s arguments, and became reconciled by his assurances that his fears were groundless. On this occasion I could not help observing with a mixture of surprize and pleasure, how much the Spaniards had succeeded in gaining the good opinion and confidence of these people; together with the very orderly behaviour, so conspicuously evident in their conduct towards the Spaniards on all occasions.

The tents, observatory, chronometers, instruments, &c. were sent on shore the following day, Thursday the 30th, and all hands were busily employed on the several necessary duties of the ship, such as caulking, overhauling the rigging and sails, cleaning the hold and bread-room for the reception of stores and provisions. The boats, in consequence of the services they had performed during the summer, were in want of much repair, and were hauled on shore for that purpose.

From the unfortunate death of Lieutenant Richard Hergest, late agent to the Dædalus, I considered it expedient that an officer should be appointed to that store-ship, and I therefore nominated Lieutenant James Hanson of the Chatham to that office; Mr. James Johnstone, master of the Chatham, I appointed to the vacant lieutenancy; and Mr. Spelman Swaine, one of my mates, to be master in the Chatham.

In the forenoon I received an official letter from Sen^r Quadra respecting the restitution of this place, with several copies of a correspondence resulting from the inquiries he had made during his residence here, respecting the English establishments on the coast, at the time the British vessels were captured, and the Spaniards effected an establishment at Nootka. On this occasion I considered myself very fortunate in finding a young gentleman (Mr. Dobson) on board the store-ship, who spoke and translated the Spanish language very accurately, and who politely offered me his services.

The Chatham was hauled on shore the next day to examine her bottom, and to repair the damage she had sustained by getting aground. A part of the gripe, a piece of the fore-foot with part of the main, and false keels, were broken off, and some of the copper was torn away in different places.

Sen^rs Galiano and Valdes arrived the following September 1792 day, Saturday, September the 1st, from the gulf of Georgia; they had pursued a route through Queen Charlotte’s sound to the southward of that which we had navigated, and obligingly favored me with a copy of their survey of it.

Mr. Dobson having translated Sen^r Quadra’s letter and the documents accompanying it, it appeared that Sen^r Quadra had, after his arrival at Nootka in April, 1792, commissioned all the vessels under his command to inspect the coast; in order that the proper limits to be proposed in the restitution of these territories might be ascertained, and that the several commanders might inform themselves of all the matters and circumstances that preceded the capture of the Argonaut and Princess Royal merchantmen in the year 1789.

Sen^r Quadra stated, that the court of Spain had expended large sums in sustaining the department of St. Blas, with the sole view of its being an auxiliary to other establishments which were then in contemplation of being formed. That Nootka was seen in the year 1774, and in 1775 possession was taken 2° to the south, and 6° to the north of it; and as in this space Don Estevan Joseph Martinez found no kind of establishment whatever, that therefore no one should take it ill that he (Martinez) should dispute his prior right to the port. Under the orders of the viceroy of New Spain, Martinez entered Nootka, and took possession the 5th of May, 1789, with visible demonstrations of joy in the Indians; and afterwards fortified the place, without any objection being made on the part of a Portuguese commander of a trading brig called the Ephigenia, then in the cove. On the arrival of the Columbia and Washington American vessels, he examined their papers and passports, as he had before done those of the Portuguese; and disapproving some expressions contained in those of the Columbia, she was detained until an explanation took place, when she was released. The English schooner North-West America, and sloop Princess Royal arrived soon afterwards, and were permitted to depart, after receiving the most friendly attention. Captain Colnett, commanding the English vessel Argonaut, fearing to enter, the Spaniards visited him, and his fears vanished; but as Captain Colnett did not confine his views to the commerce of the country, but wished to fortify himself, and to establish an English factory, Martinez arrested him and sent him to St. Blas. The like conduct was observed towards Thomas Hudson, who commanded the Princess Royal, on his return to Nootka. The vessels of both were detained.

This was the real situation of things, says Sen^r Quadra, who offers to demonstrate in the most unequivocal manner that the injuries, prejudices, and usurpations, as represented by Captain Meares, were chimerical: that Martinez had no orders to make prize of any vessels, nor did he break the treaty of peace, or violate the laws of hospitality: that the natives will affirm, and that the documents accompanying his letter will prove, that Mr. Meares had no other habitation on the shores of Nootka than a small hut, which he abandoned when he left the place, and which did not exist on the arrival of Martinez: that he bought no land of the chiefs of the adjacent villages; that the Ephigenia did not belong to the English; that Martinez did not take or detain the least part of her cargo; and that Mr. Colnett was treated with the greatest distinction at St. Blas, and his officers and crew received the wages of the Spanish navy for the time of their detention: that the vessel and cargo were restored, and that Mr. Colnett obtained a great number of skins on his return to Nootka.

These circumstances duly considered, adds Sen^r Quadra, it is evident that Spain has nothing to deliver up, nor damage to make good; but that as he was desirous of removing every obstacle to the establishment of a solid and permanent peace, he was ready, without prejudice to the legitimate right of Spain, to cede to England the houses, offices, and gardens, that had with so much labour been erected and cultivated, and that himself would retire to Fuca:^[7] observing at the same time, that Nootka ought to be the last or most northwardly Spanish settlement, that there the dividing point should be fixed, and that from thence to the northward should be free for entrance, use and commerce to both parties, conformably with the fifth article of the convention; that establishments should not be formed without permission of the respective courts, and that the English should not pass to the south of Fuca.

After enumerating these particulars, Sen^r Quadra concludes his letter by expressing, That if I should find any difficulty in reconciling what he had proposed, or if I should have any other honourable medium to offer that might be the means of terminating this negociation, and secure the desired peace, he begged I would communicate it to him.

The documents accompanying this letter were copies of a correspondence between Sen^r Quadra and Don Francisco Joseph De Viana, the commander of the Ephigenia; Mr. Robert Gray and Mr. Joseph Ingraham, commanders of the Columbia and Washington; from all of whom Sen^r Quadra appears to have solicited every information respecting the transactions at Nootka, previously to his arrival, and the reasons which induced Mr. Meares to represent things to the prejudice of Don Estevan Joseph Martinez. The Portuguese captain briefly sets forth, that his vessel was seized, and that he was made prisoner by Don Martinez; during his captivity he was very well treated, and on his being liberated, his vessel and cargo were completely restored, and he was furnished with whatever provisions and supplies he required. He also states, that when Don Martinez entered Nootka, there was not the least remains of a house belonging to the English.

Sen^r Quadra had addressed Mr. Gray and Mr. Ingraham jointly, and consequently they both replied to him in the same way. These gentlemen state, that on the arrival of Don Estevan Joseph Martinez, in Friendly cove, the 5th of May, 1789, he found there the Ephigenia only; the Columbia being at that time six miles up the sound at Mahwinna; the Washington and North-West America being then on a cruize. Martinez demanded the papers of each vessel, and their reasons why they were at anchor in Nootka sound, alledging that it belonged to his Catholic Majesty. Captain Viana, of the Portuguese vessel, answered, that he had put in there in distress to wait the arrival of Captain Meares from Macao, who was daily expected with supplies, and that on his receiving them he should depart; that Captain Meares had sailed from Nootka in 1788, under the colours of Portugal, had a Portuguese captain with him on board, and was expected to return with him in the same vessel, which, with the Ephigenia, belonged to a merchant at Macao. The Ephigenia wanting provisions and stores, the same were supplied by Martinez, who seeming satisfied with the answers which he had received from the several commanders, not the least misunderstanding was suspected. On the 10th of May arrived the Carlos Spanish ship, Captain Arro, and on the following day Martinez captured the Ephigenia, and his reason assigned for so doing, as these gentlemen understood, was, that in the Portuguese instructions, they (the Portuguese) were ordered to capture any English, Spanish, or Russian vessel they might meet on the N. W. coast of America, and could take. This was afterwards said to have been a mistake, originating in a want of due knowledge in reading the Portuguese language. The vessel and cargo were liberated, and Martinez supplied the Ephigenia’s wants from the Princissa, enabling her, by so doing, to prosecute her voyage, without waiting for the return of Mr. Meares. They then proceeded to state that, on the arrival of the Columbia in the year 1788, there was a house, or rather a hut, made by the Indians, consisting of rough posts covered with boards; this was pulled down the same year, the boards were taken on board the Ephigenia, and the roof was given to Captain Kendrick, so that on the arrival of Martinez in May, 1789, there was no vestige of any house remaining. That Mr. Meares had no house, and as to land, they had never heard, although they had remained nine months amongst the natives, that he had ever purchased any in Nootka sound. From Maquinna and other chiefs they had understood, that Mr. Kendrick was the only person to whom they had ever sold any land.

These gentlemen stated, that the North-West America arrived the 8th of June, and that on the following day the Spaniards took possession of her; ten days afterwards came the Princess Royal, commanded by Mr. Hudson from Macao, who brought the news of the failure of the merchant at Macao, to whom the Ephigenia and other vessels belonged. That Martinez assigned this as a reason for his capturing the North-West America, (although she was seized before the arrival of the Princess Royal) that he had detained her as an indemnification for the bills of exchange, drawn on her owner in favor of his Catholic Majesty. That Captain Hudson, after having been treated with the kindest attention by the commodore and his officers, sailed with the Princess Royal from Nootka, the 2d of July; and that the same evening arrived the Argonaut, Captain Colnett.

Mr. Gray and Mr. Ingraham state also, that they heard Mr. Colnett inform Don Martinez that he had come to hoist the British flag, and to take formal possession of Nootka; and that, in conjunction with Mr. Meares and some other English gentlemen at Macao, he had concluded to erect a fort, and settle a colony. To this the Spanish commodore replied, That he had taken possession already in the name of his Catholic Majesty. Captain Colnett then asked, if he should be prevented from building a house in the port? The commodore replied, That he was at liberty to erect a tent, to wood and to water, after which he would be at liberty to depart when he pleased. Captain Colnett said that was not what he wanted, that his object was to build a block house, erect a fort, and settle a colony for the crown of Great Britain. To this Don Martinez answered, No; that in his acceding to such a proposal he should violate the orders of his king, relinquish the Spaniards’ claim to the coast, and risk the losing of his commission. Beside which the commodore stated, that Mr. Colnett’s vessel did not belong to the King of Great Britain, nor was Mr. Colnett invested with powers to transact any such public business. Captain Colnett replied, That he was a king’s officer; but Don Martinez observed, That his being on half-pay, and in the merchants’ service, rendered his commission as a lieutenant in the British navy of no consequence in the present business. In conversation afterwards on this subject, as we were informed, (say these gentlemen) for we were not present during this transaction, some dispute arose in the Princissa’s cabin; on which Don Martinez ordered the Argonaut to be seized. Soon after this the Princess Royal returned, and, as belonging to the same company, the commodore took possession of her also. With respect to their treatment whilst prisoners, these gentlemen say, That although they have not read Mr. Meares’s publication, they think it impossible that the officers and crew of the Argonaut can be backward in confessing, that Sen^r Don Estevan Martinez always treated them kindly, and consistently with the character of gentlemen.^[8] They further state, That the captain, officers and crew of the North-West America were carried by them to China, with one hundred sea otter skins, valued at four thousand eight hundred and seventy-five dollars, which were delivered to Mr. Meares as his property.

To Sen^r Quadra’s letter of the 29th of August, I replied to the following effect: That I did not consider myself authorized to enter into a retrospective discussion on the respective rights and pretensions of the court of Spain or England, touching the western coasts of America, and islands adjacent, to the northward of California. That subject having undergone a full investigation, and having been mutually agreed upon and settled by the ministers of the respective courts, as appeared by the convention of the 28th of October, 1790, and Count Florida Blanca’s letter of the 12th of May, 1791, I considered any interference, on my part, to be incompatible with my commission, being invested with powers only to receive the territories which, according to the first article of the convention, Sen^r Quadra was authorized to restore and to put me in possession of, viz. (“the buildings and districts, or parcels of land which were occupied by the subjects of his Britannic Majesty in April, 1789, as well in the port of Nootka or of St. Lawrence, as in the other, said to be called Port Cox, and to be situated about 16 leagues distant from the former to the southward.”) That agreeably to the express words of the fifth article in the said convention, (“It is agreed, That, as well in the places that are to be restored to the British subjects by virtue of the first article, as in all other parts of the north-western coast of North America, or of the islands adjacent, situated to the north of the parts of the said coast already occupied by Spain, wherever the subjects of either of the two powers shall have made settlements since the month of April, 1789, or shall hereafter make, any of the subjects of the other shall have free access, and shall carry on their trade without any disturbance or molestation.”) I considered the Spanish settlement in the entrance of the straits of De Fuca, which I had reason to believe was formed no longer ago than May, 1792, to come within the meaning of a “port of free access,” as well as all other establishments that have been, or that may hereafter be, formed from thence southward to port St. Francisco, conceiving port St. Francisco to be the northernmost settlement occupied by the subjects of His Catholic Majesty, in April, 1789.

In my way to the observatory, on Sunday, I waited upon Sen^r Quadra, who informed me, that Mr. Dobson had translated my letter to him; and he was pleased to say, That he derived the greatest satisfaction from finding a person of my character, with whom he was to transact the business of delivering up Nootka; that he should accept the civil offers contained in my letter, and remain on shore until the carpenters had finished some additional accommodation to his apartments on board his little brig; which being completed, he would either wait my departure, to accompany us in our researches to the southward, and to conduct us to any of the Spanish ports I might wish to visit; or he would sail, and wait my arrival at any place I should think proper to appoint, recommending St. Francisco or Monterrey for that purpose.

Sen^r Quadra requested to know who I intended to leave in possession of these territories; and being informed that it would be Mr. Broughton in the Chatham, in whose charge the remaining cargo of the Dædalus would be deposited, he gave directions that the store-houses should be immediately cleared, and begged I would walk with him round the premises, that I might be the better able to judge how to appropriate the several buildings; which for the most part appeared sufficiently secure, and more extensive than our occasions required. A large new oven had been lately built expressly for our service, and had not hitherto been permitted to be used. The houses had been all repaired, and the gardeners were busily employed in putting the gardens in order. The poultry, consisting of fowls and turkies, was in excellent condition, and in abundance, as were the black cattle and swine: of these Sen^r Quadra said he should take only a sufficient quantity for his passage to the southward, leaving the rest, with a large assortment of garden seeds, for Mr. Broughton. Sen^rs Galiano and Valdes added all they had in their power to spare, amongst which were three excellent goats; I had likewise both hogs and goats to leave with him; so that there was a prospect of Mr. Broughton passing the winter, with the assistance of the natural productions of the country, not very uncomfortably.

The orders under which I was to receive these territories, on the part of His Britannic Majesty, were intirely silent as to the measures I was to adopt for retaining them afterwards. Presuming, however, that the principal object which His Majesty had in view, by directing this expedition to be undertaken, was that of facilitating the commercial advantages of Great Britain in this part of the world; and for that purpose it might not be impossible, that a settlement was in contemplation to be made at this important station, which had become the general rendezvous for the traders of almost all nations; I had determined, on leaving this port, to commit it to the charge and direction of Mr. Broughton, who would retain the possession of it, and whose presence might restrain such improper conduct as had already been manifested on the part of the several traders; whilst I should proceed to execute the remaining part of His Majesty’s commands, until I should be furnished with further instructions for my future government.

Having satisfactorily arranged these matters, I gave directions for clearing the store-ship, which was set about accordingly.

The politeness, hospitality, and friendship, shewn on all occasions by Sen^r Quadra, induced Mr. Broughton and myself, with several of the officers and gentlemen of both vessels, to dine at his table almost every day, which was not less pleasant than salubrious, as it was constantly furnished with a variety of refreshments to most of which we had long been intire strangers.

Sen^r Galiano informed me, that he intended to take advantage of the present serene weather, which without interruption had prevailed since our arrival, and sail for the Spanish ports to the southward, either in the course of the night, or early the next morning; and obligingly undertook to forward a short letter to the Lords of the Admiralty, containing a brief abstract of transactions since our departure from the Cape of Good Hope.

I had the honour of Sen^r Quadra’s company on the morning of Monday the 3d at breakfast. He omitted no opportunity of impressing on the minds of the natives the highest and most favorable opinion of our little squadron; and the more effectually to insure a good understanding in future, he proposed a visit of ceremony to Maquinna; to him it would be grateful, and on my part he recommended it as essentially requisite. It was agreed we should set out the next morning for his royal residence, which was about seven leagues up the sound, at a place called Tahsheis.

In the evening I received from Sen^r Quadra a letter in reply to mine of the 1st of September.

Agreeably to appointment, about eight in the morning of Tuesday the 4th, Sen^r Quadra accompanied me in the Discovery’s yawl, which, with our own and a Spanish launch, and the Chatham’s cutter, containing as many Spanish and English officers as could be taken, we departed for Tahsheis; a message having been sent the preceding day to announce our intended visit.

The weather though cloudy was very pleasant, and having a favorable breeze, we reached Tahsheis about two in the afternoon: Maquinna received us with great pleasure and approbation, and it was evident that his pride was not a little indulged by our shewing him this attention. He conducted us through the village, where we appeared to be welcome guests, in consequence perhaps of the presents that were distributed amongst the inhabitants, who all conducted themselves in the most civil and orderly manner. After visiting most of the houses, we arrived at Maquinna’s residence, which was one of the largest, though it was not intirely covered in; here we found seated in some kind of form, Maquinna’s daughter, who not long before had been publicly and with great ceremony proclaimed sole heiress to all his property, power, and dominion. Near her were seated three of his wives, and a numerous tribe of relations. The young princess was of low stature, very plump, with a round face, and small features; her skin was clean, and being nearly white, her person altogether, though without any pretensions to beauty, could not be considered as disagreeable. To her and to her father I made presents suitable to the occasion, which were received with the greatest approbation by themselves and the throng which had assembled; as were also those I made to his wives, brothers, and other relations. These ceremonies being ended, a most excellent dinner was served, which Sen^r Quadra had provided, at which we had the company of Maquinna and the princess, who was seated at the head of the table, and conducted herself with much propriety and decorum.

After dinner Maquinna entertained us with a representation of their warlike achievements. A dozen men first appeared, armed with muskets, and equipped with all their appendages, who took their post in a very orderly manner within the entrance of the house, where they remained stationary, and were followed by eighteen very stout men, each bearing a spear or lance sixteen or eighteen feet in length, proportionably strong, and pointed with a long flat piece of iron, which seemed to be sharp on both edges, and was highly polished; the whole however appeared to form but an aukward and unwieldy weapon. These men made several movements in imitation of attack and defence, singing at the same time several war songs, in which they were joined by those with the muskets. Their different evolutions being concluded, I was presented with two small sea otter skins, and the warriors having laid by their arms, performed a mask dance, which was ridiculously laughable, particularly on the part of Maquinna, who took a considerable share in the representation. We were not backward in contributing to the amusements of the day, some songs were sung which the natives seemed much to admire, and being provided with drums and fifes, our sailors concluded the afternoon’s diversion with reels and country dances.

In the evening we took leave of Maquinna, who was scarcely able to express the satisfaction he had experienced in the honour we had done him, saying, that neither Wicananish, nor any other chief, had ever received such a mark of respect and attention from any visitors, and that he would in a few days return us the compliment; on which he was given to understand, he should be entertained in the European fashion.

From Tahsheis we proceeded a few miles in our way home, when, arriving at a convenient little cove, we pitched our encampment for the night, and passed a very pleasant evening.

After breakfast the following morning, Wednesday the 5th, we embarked and directed our route towards Friendly cove; the weather was pleasant though the wind was unfavorable; this occasioned our dining by the way on the rocks, for which however Sen^r Quadra was amply provided. About five we reached the cove, where I landed Sen^r Quadra and returned to the ship.

In our conversation whilst on this little excursion, Sen^r Quadra had very earnestly requested that I would name some port or island after us both, to commemorate our meeting and the very friendly intercourse that had taken place and subsisted between us. Conceiving no spot so proper for this denomination as the place where we had first met, which was nearly in the centre of a tract of land that had first been circumnavigated by us, forming the south-western sides of the gulph of Georgia, and the southern sides of Johnstone’s straits and Queen Charlotte’s sound, I named that country the island of Quadra and Vancouver; with which compliment he seemed highly pleased.

During my absence the Chatham had hauled off from the shore, but in consequence of the inconsiderable rise of the tide her damages had not been repaired; it was therefore necessary that she should remain light until the next spring tides; this however, under our present arrangements, was a matter of little importance.

Thursday 6th, Maquinna with his two wives and some of his relations returned our visit. They had not been long on board when I had great reason to consider my royal party as the most consummate beggars I had ever seen; a disposition which seemed generally to prevail with the whole of this tribe of Indians, and which probably may have been fostered by the indulgences shewn them by the Spaniards. They demanded every thing which struck their fancy, as being either useful, curious, or ornamental, though an article with which it might be impossible for us to gratify them; and if not immediately presented they would affect to be greatly offended, and would remain sulky for two or three days.

I was however particularly fortunate in having at hand every thing requisite to satisfy the demands of Maquinna and his party. The liberality I had so recently shewn to himself and family when at Tahsheis, was perhaps not yet quite forgotten; they nevertheless made a profitable visit, as what their modesty precluded their asking of me, I was afterwards informed was amply made up by their begging from the officers and others on board.

The exhibition of fire-works which I had promised the party, was anxiously waited for; towards the evening their impatience was almost unrestrainable, as they could not, or would not, understand that darkness was necessary to their entertainment, and accused us of a breach of promise and telling falsities. Sen^r Quadra however, after much persuasion, prevailed upon them to stay the night, by which they were convinced that our assurances were not to be discredited. The night being favorable to our operations, they succeeded extremely well. The rockets, balloons, and other fire-works, were in a high state of preservation, and were regarded by the Indian spectators with wonder and admiration, mixed with a considerable share of apprehension; for it was not without great difficulty that I prevailed on Maquinna and his brother to fire a few sky rockets, a performance that produced the greatest exultation. The Europeans present were not less entertained with the exhibition, than surprized that the several fire-works should have remained so long on board in such excellent condition.

Saturday 8th, the Aransasu, a Spanish armed ship, commanded by Sen^r Caamano, arrived from a surveying expedition on the exterior coast to the north of Nootka, towards Biccareli, of the charts of which I was promised a copy, as soon as they should be properly arranged.

Mr. Cranstoun, the surgeon of the Discovery, having been rendered incapable of his duty by a general debilitated state of health since our departure from the cape of Good Hope, requested permission to proceed to port Jackson in the Dædalus, from whence he might soon procure a passage to England; he was consequently discharged, and Mr. Archibald Menzies, a surgeon in the navy, who had embarked in pursuit of botanical information, having cheerfully rendered his services during Mr. Cranstoun’s indisposition, and finding that such attention had not interfered with the other objects of his pursuit, I considered him the most proper person to be appointed in the room of Mr. Cranstoun. The boatswain of the Discovery, Mr. William House, a careful, sober, and attentive officer, having laboured under a violent rheumatic complaint, since our departure from New Zealand, which had precluded his attention to any part of his duty, was on his application in like manner discharged; Mr. John Noot, boatswain of the Chatham, was appointed in his room, and Mr. George Philliskirk was appointed boatswain of the Chatham.

Monday the 10th, I deemed it expedient, that their Lordships directions, prohibiting charts, journals, drawings, or any other sort of intelligence respecting our proceedings being made known or communicated, should be publicly read to the officers and persons under my command, and to urge every injunction in my power to enforce a due obedience to those orders.

The letter I received the 2d of this month from Sen^r Quadra, not having been translated till this day, in consequence of Mr. Dobson’s indisposition, I was not a little surprized to find it differ so much from what I had reason to expect.

In this letter Sen^r Quadra informs me, that in conformity to the first article of the convention, and the royal order under which he is to act, he can only restore to His Britannic Majesty the edifices, districts, or portions of land which in April, 1789, were taken from his subjects; that he was in possession of full proof that the small hut the English had was not in existence on the arrival of Martinez, and that the then establishment of the Spaniards was not in the place where the British subjects had theirs. That if I did not think myself authorized to subscribe to the tenor of his commission and instructions, he would recommend that each should lay before his respective court all the circumstances of the pending negociation, and wait for further instructions; in the mean time Sen^r Quadra offered to leave me in possession of what Mr. Meares had occupied, and at my command the houses, gardens, and offices then occupied by the Spaniards, whilst he retired until the decision of the two courts should be known.

To this letter I immediately replied, that as, like his former one, it contained a retrospective view of matters which I had no authority to take cognizance of, I should accede to his proposal, and make a just and fair representation of all our proceedings to the court of Great Britain, and wait for further instructions. This letter I concluded by again repeating, that I was still ready to receive from Sen^r Quadra the territories in question, agreeably to the first article of the convention, and the letter of Count Florida Blanca.

In the course of the night arrived here the brig Hope, belonging to Boston in America, commanded by Mr. Joseph Ingraham, the person who jointly with Mr. Gray had given Sen^r Quadra a statement of the conduct of Don Martinez, and of the transactions at this port in the year 1789.

About noon the next day, Wednesday the 12th, I received from Sen^r Quadra a letter dated the 11th of September, in answer to my last, expressive of his confidence that I should make a faithful and true representation of the proceedings that had taken place respecting the points in question; and repeating the offer contained in his former letter, of relinquishing the territories on the terms and conditions therein expressed. To this letter I immediately replied, that I was ready whenever it suited Sen^r Quadra’s convenience, to be put into possession of the territories on the N. W. coast of America, or islands adjacent, agreeably to the first article of the convention, and the letter of the Count Florida Blanca.

Having this day dined with Sen^r Quadra, on rising from table he requested, as no final determination had yet taken place respecting the restitution of these territories, to have some personal conversation on the subject, in hopes by that means of drawing the business to a more speedy conclusion. Besides ourselves there were present Sen^r Mozino and Mr. Broughton; so that with the assistance of Mr. Dobson, and these gentlemen who spoke French extremely well, we had a prospect of coming to so perfect an explanation as to render any further epistolary altercation totally unnecessary. Sen^r Quadra vindicated the conduct of Martinez, and laid considerable stress on the concession of Maquinna, who had put them into complete possession of the lands they then occupied; on this circumstance, and on the information he had obtained since his arrival at Nootka, certain parts of which he had by letter communicated to me, he seemed principally to establish the claims of the Spanish crown. The small spot on which Mr. Meares’s house had been built, which did not then appear to be occupied by the Spaniards, Sen^r Quadra said I was at liberty to take possession of for His Britannic Majesty, whenever I should think proper. This offer being totally foreign to my expectations, and a repetition only of that which had taken place in our correspondence, Sen^r Quadra was made acquainted, that under such circumstances I did not feel myself justified in entering into any further discussion. The propriety of this determination being admitted, it was mutually agreed that we should each represent our objections and proceedings to our respective courts, and wait their decision on the important questions which had arisen in the negociation. In the mean time Sen^r Quadra proposed to leave me in possession of these territories, the instant his vessel was fitted for his reception. On his departure the Spanish flag was to be struck, and the British flag hoisted in its place, which Sen^r Quadra consented to salute, on my agreeing to return an equal number of guns. Thus did matters appear to be perfectly arranged, agreeably to the wishes of all parties, and the business brought to an amicable and pleasant conclusion, when to my great surprize I received on the morning of Thursday the 13th a letter from Sen^r Quadra, setting forth that he was ready to deliver up to me, conformably to the first article of the convention, the territory which was occupied by British subjects in April, 1789, and to leave the Spanish settlement at Nootka until the decision of the courts of England and Spain were obtained; which was proceeding, he said, as far as his powers extended. This very unexpected letter produced an immediate reply from me, wherein I stated, that the territories of which the subjects of His Britannic Majesty were dispossessed in April, 1789, and which by the first article of the convention were now to be restored, I understood to be this place (meaning Nootka) in toto, and port Cox. These I was still ready to receive, but could not entertain an idea of hoisting the British flag on the spot of land pointed out by Sen^r Quadra, not extending more than an hundred yards in any direction. I concluded by observing, that the offer made in Sen^r Quadra’s two last letters differed materially from that contained in his first letter to me on this subject.

On the morning of Saturday the 15th, a young lad, who for about two days had been missing from Sen^r Quadra’s vessel, was found in a cove not far from the ships, most inhumanly murdered. The calves of his legs were cut out, his head nearly severed from his body, and he had received several barbarous wounds in other parts. Doubts arose whether this horrid act had been perpetrated by the natives, or by a black man of most infamous character, who had deserted from the Spanish vessel about the time the boy was first missed. The prevailing opinion seemed to criminate the former, and on Sen^r Quadra demanding of Maquinna that the murderer should be given up, the immediate departure of all the inhabitants of the sound from our neighbourhood became a strong presumptive proof of their delinquency.

Sen^r Quadra gave an immediate answer to my letter of the 13th, but as he therein did not depart from the terms of his late offer of leaving me in possession only, not formally restoring the territory of Nootka to the King of Great Britain; it became necessary on my part to demand a categorical and definitive answer from Sen^r Quadra, whether he would or would not restore to me for His Britannic Majesty the territories in question, of which the subjects of that realm had been dispossessed in April, 1789. These were Nootka and Clayoquot, or port Cox; the former is the place which was then occupied by the British subjects, from thence their vessels were sent as prizes, and themselves as prisoners to New Spain; this is the place that was forcibly wrested from them, and fortified and occupied by the officers of the Spanish crown; this place therefore, with Clayoquot or port Cox, were comprehended under the first article of the convention, and were by that treaty to be restored without any reservation whatsoever: on these terms, and on these only, could I receive the restitution of them. Sen^r Quadra having also laid some stress upon Mr. Meares’s vessels being under Portuguese colours, I took this opportunity of signifying, that I considered that circumstance equally foreign and unimportant, it having been set forth in Mr. Meares’s original petition to the Parliament of Great Britain, and of course must have come under the consideration of the Spanish and English ministers. Unless our negociation could be brought to a conclusion on the terms pointed out in this as well as in my former letters, I begged leave to acquaint Sen^r Quadra that I must positively decline any further correspondence on this subject.

It was a matter of no small satisfaction, that although on this subject such manifest difference arose in our opinions, it had not the least effect on our personal intercourse with each other, or on the advantages we derived from our mutual good offices; we continued to visit as usual, and this day Sen^rs Quadra and Caamano, with most of the Spanish officers, honoured me with their company at dinner.

On Monday morning the 15th, a Portuguese brig arrived here called the Fenis and St. Joseph, commanded by John de Barros Andrede, on board of which was a Mr. Duffin as supercargo. In the evening I had Sen^r Quadra’s final determination; which resting on the same point where it had originated, I considered any further correspondence totally unnecessary; and, instead of writing, I requested in conversation the next day to be informed, if he was positively resolved to adhere, in the restitution of this country, to the principles contained in his last letter? and on receiving from him an answer in the affirmative, I acquainted him that I should consider Nootka as a Spanish port, and requested his permission to carry on our necessary employments on shore, which he very politely gave, with the most friendly assurance of every service and kind office in his power to grant.

On Tuesday the 18th, our negociation being brought by these means to a conclusion, Sen^r Quadra informed me, that Sen^r Caamano would be left in charge of the port, until the arrival of the Princissa, commanded by Sen^r Fidalgo; with whom the government of the port of Nootka would be left, and from whom the English might be certain of receiving every accommodation.

Sen^r Quadra was now making arrangements on board the Active for his departure, which he intended should take place in the course of a day or two. Agreeably to a former promise I had made him, he requested a copy of my charts for the service of His Catholic Majesty; but as our longitude of the several parts of the coast differed in many instances from that laid down by Captain Cook, I wished to embrace every future opportunity of making further observations whilst we might remain in this port, before a copy should be disposed of; but Sen^r Quadra wishing to make certain of such information as we had acquired, and conceiving the further corrections we might be enabled to make of little importance, solicited such a copy as I was then able to furnish; which, with a formal reply to his last letter, I transmitted to him on the evening of Tuesday the 20th. In this letter I stated the impossibility of my receiving the cession of the territories in question on the conditions proposed by Sen^r Quadra, and that in consequence of the existing differences in our opinions on this subject, I should immediately refer the whole of the negociation to the court of London, and wait the determination thereof, for the regulation of my future conduct. The next day, Friday the 21st, Sen^r Quadra acknowledged the receipt of my last letter, with the charts of this coast, &c. which concluded our correspondence.

As Sen^r Quadra intended to sail the next day, accompanied by most of the Spanish officers, he did me the honour of partaking of a farewell dinner, and was on this occasion received with the customary marks of ceremony and respect due to his rank, and the situation he here filled. The day passed with the utmost cheerfulness and hilarity: Monterrey was appointed as the rendezvous where next we should meet.

Having understood that Mr. Robert Duffin, the supercargo on board the Portuguese vessel that had arrived on the 17th, had accompanied Mr. Meares in the year 1788, and was with him on his first arrival in Nootka sound, I requested he would furnish me with all the particulars he could recollect of the transactions which took place on that occasion. This he very obligingly did, and at the same time voluntarily made oath to the truth of his assertions. The substance of which was, that towards the close of the year 1787, two vessels were equipped for the fur trade on the N. W. coast of America, by John Henry Cox and Co. merchants at Canton. That the command and conduct of the expedition was given to John Meares, Esq. who was a joint proprietor also; that for the purpose of avoiding certain heavy dues, the vessels sailed under Portuguese colours, and in the name and under the firm of John Cavallo, Esq. a Portuguese merchant at Macao, but who had not any property either in the vessels or their cargoes, which were intirely British property, and were wholly navigated by the subjects of His Britannic Majesty: That Mr. Duffin accompanied Mr. Meares in one of these vessels to Nootka, where they arrived in May, 1788, when Mr. Meares, attended by himself and Mr. Robert Funter, on the 17th or 18th of the same month, went on shore, and bought of the two chiefs, Maquilla and Calicum, the whole of the land that forms Friendly cove, Nootka sound, in His Britannic Majesty’s name, for eight or ten sheets of copper, and some trifling articles: That the natives were perfectly satisfied, and, with the chiefs, did homage to Mr. Meares as their sovereign, according to the custom of their country: That the British flag, and not the Portuguese flag, was displayed on shore, whilst these formalities took place between the parties: That Mr. Meares caused a house to be erected on the spot which was then occupied by the Chatham’s tent, as being the most convenient place: That the chiefs and the people offered to quit their residence and to retire to Tahsheis, that consequently the English were not confined to that particular spot, but could have erected houses, had they been so inclined, in any other part of the cove: That Mr. Meares appointed Mr. Robert Funter to reside in the house, which consisted of three bed-chambers, with a mess-room for the officers, and proper apartments for the men; these were elevated about five feet from the ground, the under part serving as warehouses: That, exclusive of this house, there were several out-houses and sheds, built for the convenience of the artificers to work in: That Mr. Meares left the houses in good repair, and enjoined Maquilla to take care of them, until he, or some of his associates, should return: That he, Robert Duffin, was not at Nootka when Don Martinez arrived there; that he understood no vestige of the house remained at that time, but that on his return thither in July, 1789, he found the cove occupied by the subjects of His Catholic Majesty: That he then saw no remains of Mr. Meares’s house; and that on the spot on which it had stood were the tents and houses of some of the people belonging to the Columbia, commanded by Mr. John Kendrick, under the flag and protection of the United States of America: That his Catholic Majesty’s ships, Princissa and San Carlos, were at this time anchored in Friendly cove, with the Columbia and Washington American traders: That the second day after their arrival they were captured by Don Martinez, and that the Americans were suffered to carry on their commerce with the natives unmolested.

Sen^r Quadra, at my request, very obligingly undertook to forward, by the earliest and safest conveyance, a short narrative of our principal transactions at this port, for the information of the Lords of the Admiralty.

On Saturday morning the 22d, he sailed from Friendly cove, and having saluted us with thirteen guns, I returned the compliment with an equal number.

Our attention had been most particularly directed to the re-loading of the store-ship, and the re-equipment of the Chatham, whose hold had been intirely cleared for the purpose of repairing the damages she had sustained. The Discovery being in all respects ready for sea, all hands were employed in the execution of these services, which were materially retarded by the very bad condition of the provision casks on board the Dædalus, most of which required a thorough repair, and to be recruited with pickle. A very material loss was also sustained in the spirits and wine; large quantities of the slop-clothing were intirely destroyed, and many others, with some of the sails, were materially damaged. Circumstanced as we were, these deficiencies and damages were objects of the most serious concern, and appeared to have been intirely occasioned by the very improper way in which the cargo had been stowed.

The circumstances already related, with the correspondence at large between Sen^r Quadra and myself, though comprehending the substance of the negociation which took place respecting the cession of these territories, may yet require some further explanation; and when the very important commerce of this country shall be properly appreciated, I trust the circumspection with which I acted will not be found liable to censure.

Our transactions here have been related with the greatest fidelity, and precisely in the order in which they occurred. Being unprovided with any instructions but such as were contained in the convention, and the very general orders I had received, it appeared totally incompatible with the intention of the British court, with the spirit and words of the said convention, or with those of the letter of Count Florida Blanca, that the identical space only on which Mr. Meares’s house and breast-work had been situated in the northern corner of this small cove, and forming nearly an equilateral triangle not extending an hundred yards on any one side, bounded in front by the sea, and on the other two sides by high craggy rocks, which continued some distance down the beach, and, excepting at low tide, completely separated this triangular space from that occupied by the Spaniards’ houses and gardens, could possibly be considered as the object of a restitution expressed by the terms “tracts of land,” according to the first article of the convention; the “districts or parcels of land,” mentioned in the letter of Count Florida Blanca; or the “tracts of land, or parcels or districts of land,” pointed out to me, and repeated in their Lordships’ instructions communicated to me on that subject.

On due consideration, therefore, I concluded, that the cession proposed by Sen^r Quadra could never have been that intended: that, at least, the whole port of Nootka, of which His Majesty’s subjects had been forcibly dispossessed, and at which themselves, their vessels and cargoes had been captured, must have been the proposed object of restitution.

Under these impressions, I felt that if I had acceded to the proposals of Sen^r Quadra, I should have betrayed the trust with which I was honoured, and should have acted in direct opposition to my duty and allegiance, by receiving, without any authority, a territory for His Britannic Majesty, under the dominion of a foreign state.

These principles uniformly governed the whole of my conduct throughout this negociation, in which I acted to the best of my judgment; should I be so unfortunate, however, as to incur any censure, I must rely on the candour of my country, to do me the justice of attributing whatever improprieties I may appear to have committed, to the true and only cause; to a want of sufficient diplomatic skill, which a life wholly devoted to my profession had denied me the opportunity of acquiring.

After having so uniformly persisted in my determination of strictly adhering to the line of my duty, by an implicit obedience to the instructions I had received, in opposition to the judgment and opinion of Sen^r Quadra, and the evidences which he had proposed; I could not but consider the unexpected arrival of a gentleman, who had personally attended Mr. Meares on his forming the establishment at Nootka, and who it seems had been present on most occasions when differences had arisen between Sen^r Martinez and Captain Colnett, as a very fortunate circumstance, since his report and affidavit cleared up every point of which, from other testimonies, I could entertain any doubt, and confirmed me in the opinion, that the conduct I had pursued had not been incompatible with the trust committed to my charge and execution. On comparing his representation with that which had been communicated to me on the same subject by Sen^r Quadra, a very material difference appeared, which most probably operated to direct Sen^r Quadra’s conduct, in refusing me possession of the country agreeably to the terms of my instructions.

The vessels employed in commercial pursuits this season on the north-west coast of America, have I believe found their adventures to answer their expectations: many were contented with the cargo of furs they had collected in the course of the summer; whilst others who had prolonged their voyage, either passed the winter at the Sandwich islands, or on the coast, where they completed small vessels which they brought out in frame. An English and an American shallop were at this time on the stocks in the cove, and when finished were to be employed in the inland navigation, in collecting the skins of the sea otter and other furs; beside these, a French ship was then engaged in the same pursuit; and the following vessels in the service of His Catholic Majesty: the Gertrudes and Conception of thirty-six guns each, the Active brig of twelve guns, Princissa, Aransasu, and St. Carlos, armed ships, with the vessels of Sen^rs Galiano and Valdes. Both these gentlemen had been, and were still employed, not only in geographical researches, but in acquiring every possible information respecting the commerce of the country; this circumstance, together with the guarded conduct observed by Sen^r Quadra, in his endeavours to retain the whole, or at any event to preserve a right in Nootka, evidently manifested the degree of jealousy with which the court of Spain regards the commercial intercourse that is likely to be established on this side of the world.

Considering it an indispensable duty, that the Lords of the Admiralty should, from under my own hand, become acquainted with the whole of my negociation at this port by the safest and most expeditious conveyance, a passage was procured for my first lieutenant Mr. Mudge on board the Fenis and St. Joseph, bound to China, from whence he was to proceed with all dispatch to England. To this gentleman I intrusted extracts from the most important parts of my journal, with a copy of our survey of this coast; and I had every reason to indulge the hopes of his speedy return, with further instructions for the government of my conduct in these regions.

On this occasion, I appointed Lieutenant Puget and Baker to be first and second lieutenants, as also Mr. Spelman Swaine to be third lieutenant of the Discovery; and Mr. Thomas Manby to be master of the Chatham.

Sen^r Quadra having used no rigorous measures to detect and bring to justice the murderer of the young Spaniard, the alarm of the natives soon subsided, and in a day or two they visited us as usual. Maquinna and the other chiefs were not, however, so cordially received at the Spanish habitations as they had been in Sen^r Quadra’s time; at which they expressed much dislike to all the Spaniards, excepting Sen^r Quadra, and particularly to Martinez; who, Maquinna asserted, went on shore with a number of armed people, and obliged him by threats to make cession of Nootka to the king of Spain. He lamented also the prospect of our speedy departure, saying, that his people would always be harassed and ill-treated by new comers, and intreated that I would leave some persons behind for their protection. Very little dependance, however, is to be placed in the truth or sincerity of such declarations; since these people, unlettered as they are, possess no small share of policy and address, and spare no pains to ingratiate themselves, by the help of a little flattery (a commodity with whose value they seem perfectly acquainted) with strangers, to whom they represent their actions as resulting from the most sincere friendship; by which means they frequently procure very valuable presents, without making any return.

From the time of Sen^r Quadra’s departure until Wednesday the 26th, my time had been mostly employed in preparing my dispatches for England; they were now completed, and Mr. Mudge would have sailed this day, had not a hard gale of wind from the S. E. attended with a heavy rain, prevented his departure, and retarded our operations in the equipment of the Chatham and Dædalus. This boisterous unpleasant weather continued until the 30th in the afternoon, when the wind shifting to the N. W. brought fair weather, with which the Fenis and St. Joseph sailed for China.

On Tuesday, October the 2d, the Hope brig, October 1792 which had sailed on the 20th of last month, and the Spanish armed ship Princissa, arrived here from the establishment before mentioned, that the Spaniards had formed near the southern entrance of the straits of De Fuca; which was the same open bay we had passed in the afternoon of the 29th of April last; but it having been found much exposed, and the anchorage very bad, owing to a rocky bottom, the Spaniards, I was given to understand, had been induced intirely to evacuate it; and it appeared also that Sen^r Fidalgo had brought with him to this place all the live stock that had been destined for its establishment.

Our new suit of sails, after soaking some hours in the sea, were bent on Saturday the 6th. The observatory, with the instruments and chronometers, were on that day also taken on board, as well those supplied me by the Navy Board, as those intrusted by the Board of Longitude to the care of the late Mr. William Gooch the astronomer, intended for this expedition.

The very unsettled state of the weather much retarded our re-equipment, and the appearance of winter having already commenced, indicated the whole year to be divided here into two seasons only. The month of September had been delightfully pleasant, and the same sort of weather, with little interruption, had prevailed ever since the arrival of Sen^r Quadra in the spring; during which period of settled weather, the day was always attended with a refreshing gale from the ocean, and a gentle breeze prevailed through the night from the land; which not only renders the climate of this country extremely pleasant, but the access and egress to and from its ports very easy and commodious.

As my attention, during our continuance in this port, had been principally engrossed by the negociation already adverted to, I had little leisure to prosecute other inquiries; I shall therefore conclude this chapter by the insertion of such observations as were made on shore at the observatory.

By which our observations place Nootka sound about 20′ 30″ to the eastward of the longitude assigned to it by Captain Cook, and about 10′ to the eastward of Sen^r Melaspina’s observations; whence it should seem to appear, that our instruments for the longitude were erring on the eastern side.

Although I should have been very happy to subscribe to the longitude as settled by astronomers of superior abilities, yet, on the present occasion, such a concession would have been attended with a very material inconvenience, in deranging the position of the different parts of the coast that have already been surveyed, and laid down by our own observations. For this essential reason, I have been induced to retain the meridian of Nootka, as ascertained by our own observations, which shewed Kendall’s chronometer, on our arrival, to be 26′ 45″ to the eastward of what I have considered as the true longitude; and as I had reason to believe this error commenced about the time of our departure from Desolation sound, and that it had been regularly increasing since that period, the longitude has been corrected both in my journals and charts from that station.

On this authority, the errors of the chronometers have been found, which, on the 5th of October at noon, were as follow: (viz.)

The inclemency of the weather prevented our proceeding in our several occupations, and detained us here until the afternoon of Friday, October the 12th, when, in company with the Chatham and Dædalus, we hauled out of the cove, in order to take the advantage of the land wind, which about ten o’clock enabled us to sail out of the port of Nootka; but the Chatham and Dædalus not following, we brought to about midnight, to wait their coming up. This however did not take place during the night, which was serene and pleasant, though we had a very heavy and irregular swell, which drove us so far to the westward, that by day-light we were not more than two miles to the southward of the ledge of rocks which lie two leagues to the westward of the west point of entrance into Nootka; our soundings were from 25 to 30 fathoms.

About nine the next morning, Saturday the 13th, the Chatham and Dædalus joined company. The Chatham, by the weather falling calm just as she had weighed anchor, became under no command, and was swept by the tide on the rocky point of the cove, where the sea broke with great violence; but by proper exertions, and immediate assistance from the Dædalus, which was in a fortunate situation for that purpose, she got off without receiving any apparent damage, though she had struck very heavily.

It is necessary here to state, that on the day previous to our sailing, I received on board two young women for the purpose of returning them to their native country, the Sandwich islands; which they had quitted in a vessel that arrived at Nootka on the 7th instant, called the Jenny, belonging to Bristol. But as that vessel was bound from hence straight to England, Mr. James Baker her commander very earnestly requested, that I would permit these two unfortunate girls to take a passage in the Discovery to Onehow, the island of their birth and residence; from whence it seems they had been brought, not only very contrary to their wishes and inclinations, but totally without the knowledge or consent of their friends or relations; and of which transaction some particulars will hereafter be noticed, where they will not interfere with the regular progress of our narrative; which I now resume by observing, that after so long a continuance of unsettled weather, the present apparent re-established serenity encouraged me to hope I might be enabled in our route to the southward to re-examine the coast of New Albion, and particularly a river and a harbour discovered by Mr. Gray in the Columbia between the 46th and 47th degrees of north latitude, of which Sen^r Quadra had favored me with a sketch. For this purpose our course was directed along shore to the eastward, which would also afford an opportunity of examining the Spanish survey between Nootka and De Fuca’s straits.

Some observations were made to ascertain if any error had taken place in the chronometers since they had been received from the shore, and I had the satisfaction to find them all answer very well. Kendall’s in particular was very exact, and its excellency having already been proved, I was determined to depend principally upon it until a further opportunity should offer for ascertaining the going of the others.

At noon our observed latitude was 49° 23′, the longitude 233° 28′. The northernmost land in sight by compass bore N. W.; Nootka N. 8 W.; the easternmost land in sight N. 88 E.; and point Breakers, our nearest shore, N. 30 E. distant four miles; whence that point is situated according to our observations, which were very good, made by different persons, and agreeing to a great nicety, in latitude 49° 25′, longitude 233° 32′. Captain Cook states the latitude of point Breakers to be 49° 15′. The difference of 10′ is decidedly an error of the press, as by my own observations during that voyage point Breakers is placed in latitude 49° 24′.

The wind at N. W. blew a pleasant gale until the evening, when it was succeeded by calms and light variable airs off the land, which continued until near noon of Sunday the 14th. During the fore part of the night the depth of water was from 70 to 90 fathoms, but by the morning we were drifted too far from the land to gain soundings. The weather, though clear over head, was hazy towards the horizon, and rendered the land very indistinct; in the afternoon we had a fine breeze from the westward, which enabled us to steer in for the land, and to gain a distant view of Clayoquot and Nittinat, which, according to the Spaniards, are the native names of port Cox and Berkley’s sound. The east point of the former at sun-set by compass bore N. 50 W. about four leagues distant; the west point of the latter, our nearest shore, N. 28 E. about five miles distant, and the coast in sight extended from east to N. 63 W. We shortened sail for the night, and inclined our course towards cape Classet. I had been given to understand, that this promontory was by the natives called Classet; but now finding that this name had originated only from that of an inferior chief’s residing in its neighbourhood, I have therefore resumed Captain Cook’s original appellation of cape Flattery.

The westwardly wind died away as the night approached, when we were in soundings from 30 to 40 fathoms; but light airs and calms succeeding, we were soon driven to a considerable distance from the land, which in the morning of Monday the 15th was nearly obscured by a thick haze at the distance of five or six leagues. The observed latitude at noon was 48° 41′, longitude 234° 30′; the coast then in sight bearing by compass from N. W. to E. by N.

A want of wind until Tuesday the 16th much increased our distance from the shore, by our being set to the southward; and the land being still obscured by a dense haze, prevented our discovering that we had passed cape Flattery until ten in the forenoon, when it was announced by the rocks to the south of it; the largest of which, independently of Destruction island, is the most extensive detached land existing on the sea coast between cape Flattery and cape Mendocino. It is of an oblong shape, and nearly level on the top, where it produces a few trees, its sides are almost perpendicular; near it are some small white barren rocks, some sunken ones, and some rocky islets of curious and romantic shapes. At noon the observed latitude was 48° 8′, and the longitude, deduced from four different sets of observations for the chronometer taken in the afternoon, was 235° 26′. In this situation the southernmost land in sight bore by compass S. 78 E. and the mountain before considered as mount Olympus, east. Whether our having been latterly accustomed to see more lofty mountains, or whether the mountain being disrobed of its winter garment (the snow now being only in patches) produced the effect, is not easily determined, but it certainly seemed of less stupendous height than when we first beheld it in the spring. A light favorable breeze from the N. W. during the afternoon, afforded a good opportunity for determining the situation of this cape, and I had the satisfaction to find it correspond exactly with the position I had assigned to it, on passing it in the spring. This evinced the propriety of adopting the meridian of Nootka for our charts, agreeably to the result of the observations we had made for ascertaining it.

In the point of view we this day saw the entrance of De Fuca’s straits, it appeared in no respect remarkable, or likely to be an opening of any considerable extent. The night being again almost calm, our distance from the land was increased as before. We approached it slowly in the forenoon of Wednesday the 17th, and at mid-day the coast by compass extended from N. N. W. to E. S. E.; mount Olympus bore N. 40 E. and the nearest shore N. E. about four leagues distant. Our observed latitude 47° 27′, longitude 235° 38′, agreed exceedingly well with our former position of this part of the coast.

A light N. W. breeze prevailed in the afternoon, which by sun-set brought us within four miles of the shore, having soundings from 50 to 30 fathoms. At eight, the wind died away, and as we were now approaching a part of the coast which we had formerly passed at a greater distance than I could have wished, we anchored for the night to prevent the same thing happening a second time. The depth of water was 24 fathoms, black sandy bottom. At five in the morning of Thursday the 18th, with a gentle breeze from the land, we turned up along shore, and had soundings from 17 to 40 fathoms. The land breeze was succeeded by one from the N. W.; at noon the observed latitude was 47° 14′, longitude 235° 59′, very nearly corresponding with the position of this coast as laid down by us in the spring. In this situation the northernmost land in sight by compass bore N. 28 W.; the perforated rock noticed off point Grenville in the morning of the 28th of April, N. 15 W.; mount Olympus N. 14 E.; the nearest shore, being a small detached rock, S. 80 E. three or four miles distant; two low points of land which we considered to form the points of Gray’s harbour, S. 40 E.; and S. 36 E.; and the southernmost land in sight S. 32 E. In the course of the morning we had seen a remarkably high round mountain, which now bore by compass N. 79 E. and rose conspicuously from a plain of low, or rather moderately elevated land, and was covered with snow as far down as the intervening hills permitted us to see. We entertained little doubt of its being mount Rainier, which was soon afterwards confirmed; its distance from us being an hundred geographical miles.

The weather and every other circumstance concurring to promote the design I had formed of re-examining this coast, I directed that Mr. Whidbey, taking one of the Discovery’s boats, should proceed in the Dædalus to examine Gray’s harbour, said to be situated in latitude 46° 53′, whilst the Chatham and Discovery explored the river Mr. Gray had discovered in the latitude of 46° 10′. In the event of our not meeting with the Dædalus before we reached Monterrey, that port was appointed as a rendezvous. We proceeded to the southward at the distance of three or four miles from the shore, having regular soundings at a depth from 13 to 19 fathoms.

Towards midnight the light N. W. wind, which had prevailed during most part of the day, was succeeded by a calm, on which we anchored in 16 fathoms water, and at day-light the next morning discovered our situation to be off the bay we had endeavoured to enter the 27th of last April, and about two miles from the outermost of the breakers, which bore by compass N. 73 E.; the southernmost part of the coast in sight S. S. E.; mount Rainier N. 66 E.; the S. E. point of Gray’s harbour, which is low projecting land, covered with trees, N. 2 W.; and mount Olympus, our northernmost land in view, north. This by various observations, I found to be situated in latitude 47° 50′, longitude 236° 4′. Here the bay before us did not appear to fall so far back as I had been led to suppose, but the low land projected further into the ocean than it had appeared to do on our former view of it; and instead of the breakers being intirely connected, two small openings were discovered, which, however, from the colour of the water, and the rising of the swell across them, must be very shallow. Broken water was also seen in every direction between the outer reefs and the shore, the latter of which was not discernible until eleven o’clock on Friday the 19th, when a breeze set in from the N. W. which dispersed the haze, and shewed the boundary of the coast to be one uninterrupted beach, lined with breakers at irregular distances from it. With this breeze we weighed anchor. The latitude observed at noon was 46° 42′, but observations for the chronometers were not procured.

With a pleasant gale and fine weather we coasted along this delightful and apparently fertile part of New Georgia, at the distance of about a league from the shoals, having soundings from ten to sixteen fathoms, until four in the afternoon, when having nearly reached cape Disappointment, which forms the north point of entrance into Columbia river, so named by Mr. Gray, I directed the Chatham to lead into it, and on her arrival at the bar should no more than four fathoms water be found, the signal for danger was to be made; but if the channel appeared to be further navigable, then to proceed.

As we followed the Chatham the depth of water decreased to four fathoms, in which we sailed some little time without being able to distinguish the entrance into the river, the sea breaking in a greater or less degree from shore to shore; but as the Chatham continued to pursue her course, I concluded she was in a fair channel. We however soon arrived in three fathoms, and as the water was becoming less deep, and breaking in all directions around us, I hauled to the westward in order to escape the threatened danger. In doing this we were assisted by a very strong ebb tide that sat out of the river, and which opposing a very heavy swell that rolled from the westward directly on the shore, caused an irregular and dangerous sea. By seven, our depth of water had increased to ten fathoms, where, conceiving ourselves in safety, we anchored for the night, which passed very uncomfortably, owing to the violent motion of the vessel, and anxiety for the safety of the Chatham, from which a signal was made at the moment we hauled out of the breakers, which we were fearful might have been for assistance, as the closing in of the day prevented our accurately distinguishing the colour of the flags; but as she appeared to be perfectly under command, and as the rapidity of the tide and the heavy sea rendered any assistance from us impracticable, I was willing to hope the signal might have been for the bar, which, at day-light the next morning, was proved to be the case by her being seen riding in perfect safety, about two miles within the station we had taken.

The morning of Saturday the 20th was calm and fair, yet the heavy cross swell continued, and within the Chatham the breakers seemed to extend without the least interruption from shore to shore. Anxious, however, to ascertain this fact, I sent Lieutenant Swaine, in the cutter, to sound between us and the Chatham, and to acquire such information from Mr. Broughton as he might be able to communicate; but a fresh easterly breeze prevented his reaching our consort, and obliged him to return: in consequence of which a signal was made for the lieutenant of the Chatham, and was answered by Mr. Johnstone, who sounded as he came out, but found no bar, as we had been given to understand. The bottom was a dead flat within a quarter of a mile of our anchorage. From Mr. Johnstone I received the unpleasant intelligence, that by the violence of the surf, which, during the preceding night, had broken over the decks of the Chatham, her small boat had been dashed to pieces. Mr. Johnstone was clearly of opinion, that had the Discovery anchored where the Chatham did, she must have struck with great violence. Under this circumstance we undoubtedly experienced a most providential escape in hauling from the breakers. My former opinion of this port being inaccessible to vessels of our burthen was now fully confirmed, with this exception, that in very fine weather, with moderate winds, and a smooth sea, vessels not exceeding four hundred tons might, so far as we were enabled to judge, gain admittance. The Dædalus, however, being directed to search for us here, I was induced to persevere; particularly as, towards noon, a thick haze, which before had in a great degree obscured the land, cleared away, and the heavy swell having much subsided, gave us a more perfect view of our situation, and shewed this opening in the coast to be much more extensive than I had formerly imagined. Mount Olympus, the northernmost land in sight, bore by compass N. 7 W.; cape Disappointment N. 61 E. two miles, the breakers extending from its shore S. 87 E. about half a league distant; those on the southern or opposite side of the entrance into the river S. 76 E.: between these is the channel into the river, where at this time the sea did not break. The coast was seen to the southward as far as S. 31 E. The observed latitude 46° 20′, which placed cape Disappointment one mile further north than did our former observations. The flood at one o’clock making in our favor, we weighed, with a signal as before for the Chatham to lead. With boats a-head sounding, we made all sail to windward, in four to six fathoms water. The Chatham being further advanced in the channel, and having more wind and tide, made a greater progress than the Discovery. About three o’clock a gun was fired from behind a point that projected from the inner part of cape Disappointment, forming, to all appearance, a very snug cove; this was answered by the hoisting of the Chatham’s colours, and firing a gun to leeward, by which we concluded some vessel was there at anchor. Soon afterwards soundings were denoted by the Chatham to be six and seven fathoms, and at four she anchored apparently in a tolerably snug birth. Towards sun-set, the ebb making strongly against us, with scarcely sufficient wind to command the ship, we were driven out of the channel into 13 fathoms water, where we anchored for the night; the serenity of which flattered us with the hope of getting in the next day.

The clearness of the atmosphere enabled us to see the high round snowy mountains, noticed when in the southern parts of Admiralty inlet, to the southward of mount Rainier; from this station it bore by compass N. 77 E. and, like mount Rainier, seemed covered with perpetual snow, as low down as the intervening country permitted it to be seen. This I have distinguished by the name of Mount St. Helens, in honour of His Britannic Majesty’s ambassador at the court of Madrid. It is situated in latitude 46° 9′, and in longitude 238° 4′, according to our observations.

All hopes of getting into Columbia river vanished on Sunday morning the 21st, which brought with it a fresh gale from the S. E. and every appearance of approaching bad weather, which the falling of the mercury in the barometer also indicated. We therefore weighed and stood to sea; soon after this some observations for the chronometer were obtained, which gave the longitude 236° 4′ 30″, by which cape Disappointment appeared to be 3′ in longitude further east than I had formerly esteemed it to be; it is however too trifling to demand correction, as such a difference, and even a much greater one, is liable to arise, by any little alteration in the rate of the chronometer.

The forenoon was employed in making the necessary preparations for bad weather, which was soon found to be an essential precaution. An increase of the gale, with a very heavy sea, obliged us about two in the afternoon to close-reef the topsails, and to hand the mainsail and mizen topsail.

Under this sail we stood to the S. W. until two in the morning of Monday the 22d, when, the wind in some degree moderating, we again made for the land, the gale subsided, and in the forenoon the wind from the S. E. was light and variable. The weather, however, was very unsettled, several water spouts were seen, and some passed at no great distance from the ship. By a very indifferent observation, at noon, the latitude was ascertained to be 46° 4′, and the longitude by the reckoning 234° 49′. About two in the afternoon, a strong gale, attended with heavy dark gloomy weather, suddenly arose from the N. W. and soon increased with such violence as obliged us afterwards to strike the top-gallant masts, close-reef the topsails, and to take in the main and the fore and mizen topsails. This boisterous weather, in addition to the advanced state of the season, induced me to abandon every idea of regaining Columbia river; and, under the conviction that from Mr. Broughton and Mr. Whidbey I should receive every information I required, not only of Gray’s harbour but of Columbia river, which Mr. Broughton had entered, and who I was assured would not quit it without being satisfied in its examination, I directed our course to the southward.

The gale moderated next morning, Tuesday 23, veered to the S. and bringing with it more settled weather, we made all sail. At noon the observed latitude was 44° 31′, longitude by the chronometer 234° 12′. This favorable appearance of the weather was however of short duration. The wind in the afternoon again blew a strong gale, which obliged us to stand to the S. W. under storm staysails until near midnight, when it veered to the S. W. became more moderate, and we were enabled to stand to the S. S. E. The weather, however, continued very unsettled, the sea was very heavy and irregular, and the wind became variable between S. W. and S. S. E. On Wednesday morning the 24th, some water spouts again appeared, and towards noon came on a very violent storm of lightning, thunder, and rain; about which time, very unexpectedly, we saw the land. I considered it to be part of the coast about cape Perpetua; it bore east, and was not more than six leagues from us, though, by our reckoning, it should have been more than twice that distance. The wind, with squalls from the S. S. W. now blew very hard, with which, in order to regain an offing, we stood to the westward; but this was accomplished so slowly, that at five in the evening the land was still in sight to the eastward, distant about six or seven leagues; and though the ship was already under a severe press of sail, it became necessary to make considerable addition, which the ship being unable to carry, the topsails were again close-reefed, under which and the two courses, we stood to the north-westward during the night, which was very stormy. The weather continued unsettled, although the wind became light and variable between the S. and S. W. attended with heavy rain and unpleasant weather, until Thursday afternoon the 25th, when the wind shifted to the N. W. blew a gentle breeze, and brought with it a clear atmosphere. To this favorable breeze we spread all our canvass, and directed our course for cape Orford, in order to re-examine its position.

At noon the next day, Friday the 26th, our observed latitude was 43° 39′, longitude 243° 51′. Towards sun-set a distant view of the coast was gained, bearing E. S. E. and by ten at night the wind veered again to the S. E. which, by noon of Saturday the 27th, reduced us to our close-reefed topsails. The gale moderated towards midnight, and once more we spread all our canvass to a moderate breeze, between the south and S. E. which was still attended with a heavy disagreeable cross swell, rendering the ship, with her then heavy cargo, very uneasy. The weather in general was much more pleasant than that which we had lately experienced, and as the wind veered, we occasionally tacked to get to the S. E. By these means, on the evening of Monday the 29th, the coast was seen extending by compass from N. E. by N. to S. E. by E.; cape Orford bearing E. by N. about four miles distant. By the observations made in the course of the day, the latitude of this cape, as before stated, was found to be correct; the longitude as at cape Disappointment deviated three miles to the eastward. The next day, Tuesday the 30th, in the afternoon, I made some further observations to this effect, (not having proceeded more than three or four leagues to the southward of the cape) which produced the like result.

The wind continued nearly in the same direction, November 1792 blowing a moderate breeze, with pleasant weather; but the very uncomfortable state of the vessel, in consequence of a disagreeable swell, was soon again aggravated by the increase of the S. E. wind, which, at sun-set, on Friday the 2d of November, reduced us to a close-reefed topsail and foresail. This gale was accompanied by a very high sea, which, about two o’clock in the morning of Saturday the 3d, carried away our spritsail-yard in the slings. After day-break the wind shifted to the N. W.; with this we steered to the S. S. E. against a very heavy head sea, which washed overboard John Davison, a seaman, whilst rigging a new spritsail-yard. This poor fellow being a good swimmer, was enabled to support himself until our small boat from the stern happily picked him up, when nearly exhausted.

The wind continuing to blow a fresh breeze to the westward of south, we made a fine slant along the coast to the south-eastward. The weather was delightfully pleasant until near midnight, when the wind veered to the S. E. and by four in the morning of Sunday the 4th, its violence obliged us to strike the top-gallant masts, and bring the ship under the foresail and storm staysails; even this low sail was more than prudence could authorize, yet I was, and had been, throughout the whole of this stormy weather, necessitated to resort to this measure, lest we should lose, in these tempestuous returns, the distance which the short intervals of moderate weather permitted us to gain. This gale moderated in the evening; close-reefed topsails were set; towards midnight the wind veered to the westward, and the next morning, Monday the 5th, we again stood to the south. The wind between N. W. and W. attended still with the same heavy irregular swell, blew a moderate breeze with fair and pleasant weather, which gave us again, on the following day, Tuesday the 6th, sight of the land extending by compass from N. E. by N. to E. ½ S. The southernmost promontory of cape Mendocino, N. 40 E. distant five or six leagues. At noon in this situation our latitude was 40° 10′, longitude 235° 33′. From the observations on this occasion, I found the latitude of cape Mendocino exactly to correspond, and the longitude to be within 3′ of the position I had before assigned to it. This circumstance afforded me much satisfaction, as it proved the accuracy of our survey in the spring, and flattered me with the hope, that future visitors to this coast would find the several projecting points, as well to the north of cape Mendocino, as to the south of it, which we were now bound to visit, laid down with tolerable accuracy in our chart.

The wind, however, proved adverse to our southern progress; it again veered to the S. E. and as usual was attended with squalls and torrents of rain, which kept us under close-reefed topsails until Wednesday morning the 7th, when the gale gradually died away, and was succeeded by a calm; the same heavy irregular sea, thick weather, and a deluge of rain continued until the morning of Thursday the 8th, when a gentle breeze sprang up from the N. W. and the atmosphere once more assumed a clear and pleasant appearance.

We had now passed to the south of cape Mendocino, and with this favorable change in the weather lost not a moment in making all sail towards the land to the S. E. of the cape, which at noon was in sight, extending by compass from N. by E. to E. by N.; the nearest shore bearing N. 55 E. about eight leagues distant. The latitude observed was 39° 51′, longitude 235° 48′. We had approached about dark nearly within a league of the shore, and as we had now to commence the examination of the coast to the southward, we hauled our wind and plied under an easy sail until day-light in the morning of Friday the 9th, when we again resumed our course along shore with a light northerly breeze, which by noon brought us to that part of the coast we first made on the 17th of last April. It extended by compass from S. 43 E. to N. 33 W.; the nearest shore bearing E. by N. about two leagues distant. In this situation our latitude was 39° 25′, longitude 236° 32′, which places the coast under this parallel near a quarter of a degree more to the eastward than I had considered it on our former visit. The land to the southward, which had then appeared to have been much broken, was now proved to be compact, the deception having been occasioned by our distance from it, and the irregularity of its surface, which rises abruptly in low sandy cliffs from a connected beach which uniformly composes the sea shore. The interior country appeared to be nearly an uninterrupted forest, but towards the sea side was a pleasing variety of open spaces.

From the south promontory of cape Mendocino to the land we were abreast of the preceding night, the coast takes a direction about S. 40 E. for about 12 or 13 leagues, and there forms something of a projection, whence it falls back about two leagues to the eastward, and then stretches about S. 15 E. in which direction we sailed at the distance of four or five miles from the shore which still continued compact, with two or three small rocky islets lying near it. As we proceeded, a distant view was obtained of the inland country, which was composed of very lofty rugged mountains extending in a ridge nearly parallel to the direction of the coast. These were in general destitute of wood, and the more elevated parts were covered with perpetual snow.

In the evening we again hauled off from the shore to wait the return of day, Saturday the 10th, at which time a low projecting point, called by the Spaniards Punta Barro de Arena, bore by compass S. 57 E. about two leagues from us. The wind blew a pleasant gale from the N. W. with fine weather, which made me much regret the delays our survey demanded, as these now prevented our embracing so favorable an opportunity of making the best of our way to those ports of refreshments now not far off, especially as some scorbutic symptoms had at length made their appearance. Six of the crew were affected, though not in such a degree as to cause confinement. The same attention had been unremittingly paid to the preservation of health as on all former occasions during the voyage, and I was unable to ascribe the appearance of this malady to any other cause than the laborious exertions which the nature of the service had demanded, and the scarcity of refreshments we had been enabled to procure in the course of the summer. The very unpleasant state of the ship during the late boisterous weather had undoubtedly operated in producing this calamity, by the crew being almost continually wet with the incessant rains, and from our having shipped a great quantity of water which had unavoidably kept the ship damp in spite of our utmost endeavours. The salubrious qualities of the sour krout, though served with the portable soup every day, and boiled not only in the peas for dinner, but every morning in the wheat for breakfast, ever since we had left Nootka, had not averted the evil. On the first symptoms of the disease, recourse was immediately had to the essence of malt, with the inspissated juice of orange and lemon, which from some removed the disorder; and checked its progress in others, though they still continued to labour under its influence.

We pursued our line of direction slowly along the coast, owing to the late baffling winds that prevailed. At noon the observed latitude was 38° 48′, longitude 236° 42′; the southernmost land in sight bore by compass S. 67 E.; two small rocky islets lying near the coast N. 79 E.; the nearest shore about two leagues distant; and the point de Arena being nearly the northernmost land in sight N. 10 W. at the distance of about three leagues. According to our observations this point is situated in latitude 38° 56′, longitude 236° 44′; it forms a conspicuous mark on the coast; the shores to the north of it take a direction N. 10 W.; its northern side is composed of black rugged rocks on which the sea breaks with great violence; to the south of it the coast trends S. 35 E.; its southern side is composed of low sandy or clayey cliffs, remarkably white, though interspersed with streaks of a dull green colour; the country above it rises with a gentle ascent, is chequered with copses of forest trees and clear ground, which gave it the appearance of being in a high state of cultivation. The land further south is high, steep to the sea, and presented a rude and barren aspect. Our soundings were 75 and 70 fathoms. The calm of the afternoon was succeeded by a S. E. wind and its usual attendant, a heavy rain, which prevented our acquiring any further knowledge of the coast until Monday the 12th, when, on the return of a favorable gale, we stood for the land, which at noon extended by compass from N. 15 W. to S. 77 E.; the nearest shore bore N. E. about five leagues distant, latitude 38° 17′, longitude 236° 59′. As we approached the shore, advancing to the southward, the country became nearly destitute of wood and verdure, at least that part of it in the vicinity of the sea shore, which was nearly straight and compact. The more interior hills, rising behind those forming the coast, were tolerably well wooded.

Being near the assigned situation of the bay in which Sir Francis Drake anchored, and that of a port called by the Spaniards Bodega, our attention was directed to the appearance of a port to the eastward, for which we immediately steered. By sun-set we were close in with the shore, which extended from N. W. by W. to S. S. E. ½ E., so that we were considerably embayed. We were now off the northern point of an inner bay that seemed divided into two or three arms, the soundings had been regular from 40 to 28 fathoms, the bottom a bed of coral rock, sand, and shells. Being anxious not to leave any opening on the coast unexamined, and as the evening was serene and pleasant, I was induced to anchor, though on a rocky bottom, off this point for the night, which bore by compass from us N. E. by E. two miles distant, that my design might early in the morning be carried into execution. Our situation here was by no means pleasant; during the night two deep sea lines were cut through by the rocks, and at four in the morning of Tuesday the 13th the buoy was seen drifting past ship, and was proved to have been severed in the same way. Lest the cable should share the same fate, no time was lost in weighing the anchor; fortunately however the cable had not received any injury. A light breeze from the land permitted us to stand across the bay, which we soon discovered to be port Bodega; its north point according to our observations is situated in latitude 38° 21′, longitude 237° 21′. This point is formed of low steep cliffs, and when seen from the south has the appearance of an island, but is firmly connected with the main land. To the east the land retires and forms a small inlet, apparently favorable to anchorage; it has a flat rock on which the water broke in its entrance, and has not any other visible danger excepting that of being much exposed to the south and S. E. winds. Not being able to sail into the bay, we stood towards its south point, which lies from the north point S. 30 E. at the distance of seven miles. Within these limits appeared three small openings in the coast, one already noticed to the eastward of the north point, the other two immediately within the south point; across these a connected chain of breakers seemed to extend, with three high white rocks, which nearly blockaded the passage. Although very solicitous of gaining more intelligence, this was all the information I was able to procure of this place, which required to be minutely surveyed by our boats before the vessel should enter; the state of the weather was ill calculated for such service: it was very dark and gloomy, and the depression of the mercury in the barometer indicated an approaching storm. Our soundings when under 35 fathoms were on a rocky bottom, and considering that any further examination at this time was not important, I steered along the coast to the southward for point de los Reys, so named by the Spaniards, which at noon bore by compass, S. 22 E. distant about two leagues: the latitude by an indifferent observation, 38° 7′. My apprehensions of bad weather were not ill founded; after a few hours calm we were again visited by a S. S. E. gale, attended as before with heavy rain; this soon reduced us to close-reefed topsails, and brought with it a very heavy sea. Soon after midnight the wind suddenly shifted to the westward, the sky became clear, and we again steered for the land; about nine in the morning of Wednesday the 14th we passed point de los Reys, which I found to be situated in latitude 38° 0′, longitude 237° 24′. This is one of the most conspicuous promontories southward of cape Flattery, and cannot easily be mistaken; when seen from the north, or south, at the distance of five or six leagues, it appears insular, owing to its projecting into the sea, and the land behind it being lower than usual near the coast; but the interior country preserved a more lofty appearance, although the mountains extended in a direction further from the coast than those we had lately noticed. From the south point of port Bodega, which is formed by steep rocky cliffs with some detached rocks lying near it, the coast makes a shallow open bay, which is bounded by a low sandy beach; towards the S. E. part of which the elevated land of point de los Reys again commences, and stretches like a peninsula to the southward into the ocean, where its highest part terminates in steep cliffs, moderately elevated, and nearly perpendicular to the sea, which beats against them with great violence. Southward of this point the shore, composed of low white cliffs, takes, for about a league, nearly an eastern direction, and there forms the north point of a bay extending a little distance to the northward, which is intirely open, and much exposed to the south and S. E. winds.

The eastern side of the bay is also composed of white cliffs, though more elevated. According to the Spaniards, this is the bay in which Sir Francis Drake anchored; however safe he might then have found it, yet at this season of the year it promised us little shelter or security. The wind blowing fresh out of the bay from the N. N. W., I did not think it proper to lose this opportunity of proceeding with all dispatch to St. Francisco; where there was little doubt of our obtaining a supply of those refreshments which were now much wanted by the whole crew.

Off point de los Reys are situated some rocks, called Farellones; those we saw were tolerably high, and appeared to be in two distinct clusters of three or four rocks each, lying in a S. E. and N. W. direction from each other. The highest rock of the northernmost group lies from the extremity of point de los Reys, S. 13 W., distant 14 miles; the southernmost S. 5 E., at the distance of 17 miles. From unquestionable authority I learned, that a third cluster of rocks, scarcely above the surface of the sea, lies 12½ miles distant from the above point S. 36 W.

With a favorable gale and pleasant weather we sailed, at the distance of two or three miles, along the coast; which, from point de los Reys to port Francisco, takes a direction S. 62 E. distant eight leagues. At noon the observed latitude was 37° 53′, longitude 237° 35′; in this situation point de los Reys bore by compass N. 72 W.; the supposed bay of Sir Francis Drake N. 45 W.; a low sandy projecting point, off which some breakers extended nearly two miles to the E. S. E., being our nearest shore, N. 34 W., about a league distant; the southernmost land in sight S. E.; and the south-easternmost of the Farellones S. 35 W.; to the eastward of the low sandy projecting point, the coast suddenly rises in abrupt cliffs, with very unequal surfaces, presenting a most dreary and barren aspect. A few scattered trees were growing on the more elevated land, with some patches of dwarf shrubs in the vallies; the rest of the country presented either a surface of naked rocks, or a covering of very little verdure.

We had approached, by two in the afternoon, within a small distance of the entrance into port St. Francisco, and found a rapid tide setting against us; the depth of water regularly decreased from 18 to 4 fathoms, which appearing to be the continuation of a shoal that stretches from the northern shore, then distant from us not more than a league, I hauled to the S. W. in order to avoid it, but did not succeed in reaching deeper water, as the bank we were upon extended a long way in that direction, as was evident from the confused breaking sea upon it, and the smooth water on either side of it. We therefore made for the port, and soon increased the depth of water to eight and ten fathoms, until we arrived between the two outer points of entrance, which are about two miles and a half apart, and bear from each other N. 10 W. and S. 10 E.; here we had 15 and 18 fathoms water, and soon afterwards we could gain no sounding with a handline.

Although favored with a pleasant breeze which impelled us at the rate of four or five knots an hour, it availed us no more than just to preserve our station against the ebb setting out of the port. We did not advance until four o’clock, and then but slowly, through the channel leading into this spacious port; lying in a direction N. 61 E. and S. 61 W.; it is nearly a league in length, with some rocks and breakers lying at a little distance from either shore. Those on the southern side were furthest, detached, and most conspicuous, especially one, about a mile within the S. W. point of entrance, which seemed to admit of a passage within it; but we had no opportunity of ascertaining that fact, nor is it of any importance to the navigation, as the main channel appeared to be free from any obstruction, and is of sufficient width for the largest vessels to turn in. Its northern shore, composed of high steep rocky cliffs, is the boldest; the southern side is much lower, though its south-eastern point is formed of steep rocky cliffs, from the base of which a tract of sandy country commences, extending not only along the southern shore of the channel, and some distance along the exterior coast to the southward, but likewise to a considerable height on the more elevated land that borders thereon; and interspersed with huge massy rocks of different sizes, which, with the Farellones, render this point too conspicuous to be mistaken. Having passed the inner points of entrance, we found ourselves in a very spacious sound, which had the appearance of containing a variety of as excellent harbours as the known world affords. The Spanish establishment being on the southern side of the port, our course was directed along that shore, with regular soundings from nine to thirteen fathoms. Several persons were now seen on foot and on horseback coming to the S. E. point above mentioned; from whence two guns were fired, and answered by us, agreeably to the signal established between Sen^r Quadra and myself. As the night soon closed in, a fire was made on the beach, and other guns were fired; but as we did not understand their meaning, and as the soundings continued regular, we steered up the port, under an easy sail, in constant expectation of seeing the lights of the town, off which I purposed to anchor: but as these were not discoverable at eight at night, and being then in a snug cove, intirely land-locked, with six fathoms water and a clear bottom, we anchored to wait the return of day.

END OF THE SECOND VOLUME.

T. Gillet, Printer, Salisbury Square.

It is not surprising that spelling was variable across the six volumes of this work. The spelling of variable words, including the names of sails, was changed to match that which predominated, even though that spelling may not have been the preferred spelling at the time of writing or may now be obsolete. Other obvious typographic errors were corrected. All other words are as in the original.

The table of contents for all six volumes was originally published only in the first volume. The part of the table of contents relating to each subsequent volume is reproduced in that volume.

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[The end of A Voyage of Discovery to the North Pacific Ocean, and Round the World, Vol. 2, by George Vancouver]