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Dedicated, by Permission, to HIS MAJESTY.

T. Gillet, Printer, Salisbury Square.

As many necessary repairs in and about the May 1793 Discovery demanded our immediate attention, and that no time might be lost, on Sunday the 26th of May, I determined, that whilst those on board were employed on the requisite duties, two boat parties should be dispatched to prosecute the examination of the broken region before us. Recollecting there was a large cove to the northward that I had noticed on our former visit, and supposing it more likely to answer all our purposes than the station we had taken, I sat out after dinner to take a view of it, and finding it a very eligible place, I returned in the evening, and, with the flood tide the following morning, we stood towards this bay or cove, bearing by compass N. 28 E. distant five miles.

The flood tide assisted our progress but a little way up the arm, after which we had to contend with those counter currents that have been before stated as not only rendering the vessel nearly stationary, but totally ungovernable. It was not until two in the afternoon of Monday the 27th, that we anchored in 12 fathoms water, and with a hawser moored the ship to the trees on the shore; this was a fine sandy beach, through which flowed an excellent stream of water into the cove, close to the station we had taken. Near this stream, by the felling of a few trees, a very good situation was obtained for the observatory and tents. The seine was hauled with tolerable success, so that we had a prospect of much convenience, and of acquiring some refreshment from the sea. These were advantages beyond our expectations in this desolate region, where the rain had been almost incessantly pouring down in torrents ever since our arrival on it.

On Tuesday the 28th, our several repairs were begun. The leak in the bows of the ship claimed our first attention; by ripping the copper off down to the water’s edge this seemed likely to be got at, and to be completely stopped. The after part of the ship required caulking, the launch stood in need of repair, the sails in use wanted mending, the powder airing, and several spars were required to replace those we had carried away since our last departure from this coast; but the rainy weather still continuing, we proceeded very slowly in these several services.

On Wednesday the 29th, Mr. Johnstone was dispatched in the Chatham’s cutter, attended by our small one, to finish the examination of this inlet, which he was prevented doing last year by the badness of the weather. The next morning, Tuesday the 30th, accompanied by Lieutenant Swaine in the cutter, I sat out in the yawl to examine the main arm of this inlet, that appeared to take its direction northerly to the west of, or without, the arm in which the ships were at anchor. This, after the Right Honourable Edmund Burke, I named Burke’s Channel.

On this occasion I deemed it expedient, that those employed on boat service should be supplied with an additional quantity of wheat and portable soup, sufficient to afford them two hot meals every day during their absence; and, in consequence of their being much exposed to the prevailing inclement weather, an additional quantity of spirits, to be used at the discretion of the officer commanding each party; a practice that was found necessary to be continued throughout the season.

About nine in the forenoon we arrived in what appeared to be the main branch of the inlet, leading to the north from Fitzhugh’s sound. After a much-respected friend, I named this Fisher’s Channel. Some detached rocks were passed, that lie N. 14 W. about a league from the north-west point of entrance into Burke’s channel, which obtained the name of Point Walker; it is situated in latitude 51° 56½′, longitude 232° 9′; its opposite point of entrance, named Point Edmund, lies from it S. 60 E. near two miles. Off point Edmund lie several rocky islets; with one on the opposite shore, a little within point Walker; but the channel is fair to navigate.

We had a fresh southerly gale in our favor, but the cloudiness of the weather prevented my obtaining an observation for the latitude. For this purpose, though we did not succeed, we landed on some rocks near the western shore; here we were visited by a few of the natives, who were at first somewhat shy, but the distribution of a few trinkets amongst them soon gained their confidence and friendship. These people appeared to be of a different race from those we had seen to the southward, used a different language, and were totally unacquainted with that spoken by the inhabitants of Nootka. The stature of the few here seen, (not exceeding twenty) was much more stout and robust than that of the Indians further south. The prominence of their countenances, and the regularity of their features, resembled the northern Europeans; their faces were generally broad, with high cheek bones; and had it not been for the filth, oil, and paint, with which, from their earliest infancy, they are besmeared from head to foot, there is great reason to believe that their colour would have differed but little from such of the labouring Europeans as are constantly exposed to the inclemency and alterations of the weather. From these rocks we steered over to the opposite shore, the channel being from a mile to half a league wide. The eastern, almost a compact shore, lies in a north direction, to the south point of a small opening, in latitude 52° 6½′; this extended E. by N. four miles, and terminated as is usual with the generality of these branches. Its north point of entrance lies from its south point N. 14 E. distant two miles. Before its entrance are two small islands, and towards its northern shore are some rocks. This opening formed a good harbour, and was by me named Port John. From the north point the eastern coast still continued nearly in its former direction for two miles and an half, and then took a more eastwardly bend. The country we had passed along, since we had entered Fisher’s channel, might, on the western side, be considered of a moderate height; its surface, composed principally of rocks, was uneven, and full of chasms, where a soil, formed by the decay of vegetables, produced some different sorts of pine trees of slender growth, the maple, birch, small-fruited crab, and a variety of shrubs, and berry bushes. The eastern shore rose more abruptly, and was bounded behind by very lofty rugged mountains, covered with snow.

As we proceeded along the eastern shore, we passed, and left for future examination an opening on the opposite shore, that took a N. N. W. direction, and was of such considerable extent, as to make me doubtful whether it might not be the main branch of the inlet. Agreeably, however, to my former practice, we kept the starboard shore on board, as the most positive means of ascertaining the continental boundary; and as we advanced, the land to the north-east of the above opening, forming the north-west side of the channel, rose to an equal if not a superior height to that on the south-east side.

The evening was very rough, rainy, and unpleasant, and what contributed to render our situation more uncomfortable, was the steep precipices that constituted the shores, not admitting us to land until near midnight; when with difficulty we found room for erecting our tents that had been constructed on a small scale for the convenience of this service.

During the night we had a very heavy fall of rain, and at day-light on Friday the 31st, our lodging was discovered to have been in a morass, and most of our things were very wet. In this very unpleasant abode we were detained by the weather until eight o’clock, when, although the rain continued, the haze cleared sufficiently to allow of our proceeding northward to a point on the opposite shore, situated in latitude 52° 14½′, longitude 232° 12½′; where the channel divided into two branches, one leading to the N. N. E. the other N. 63 E. The latter, for the reasons before given, became the object of our pursuit. From Mr. Johnstone’s sketch the preceding year, and from the direction this branch was now seen to take, we had some reason to suppose the eastern land was an island. Towards noon the weather enabled me to get an indifferent observation for the latitude, which shewed 52° 19′. The inlet now extending to the north-eastward was generally about a mile wide, the shores steep, rocky, and compact, if a small opening, or sheltered bay, on the south-east shore be excepted. In the afternoon two openings on the north-west shore were passed. The northernmost of these had the appearance of being extensive. At its south point of entrance, in latitude 52° 23½′, longitude 232° 28½′, we met with a small party of the natives, whose appearance and conduct much resembled those we had met the day before. They strongly solicited us to visit their houses; but as their signs gave us reason to believe their habitations were behind us, though at no great distance, I declined their civil intreaties, and prosecuted our survey until seven in the evening, when we arrived at a point, from whence this inlet again divides into two arms, one taking a northerly, the other a south-easterly direction. From this point, named by me Point Edward, situated in latitude 52° 25½′, longitude 232° 37½′, and forming the northern extremity of the eastern shore, we directed our route to the south-east, in order to take up our lodging for the night, having little doubt of finding that channel to be the same that Mr. Johnstone had the last year left unexplored, extending to the northward.

About four in the morning of Saturday the 1st June 1793 of June, the weather being mild, though cloudy, we again prosecuted our researches to the south-east, and about seven came to a point that left no doubt as to our situation, and that the starboard shore which we had thus far pursued, was one side of an extensive island, which I distinguished by the name of King’s Island, after the family of my late highly esteemed and much-lamented friend, Captain James King of the navy. Point Menzies was seen from this station lying S. 83 E. about three leagues distant, and the north-east point of Burke’s channel on the opposite shore S. 78 E. two miles and an half distant. The continuation of the inlet to the eastward was evidently the same that had undergone the examination of Mr. Johnstone, and determined to a certainty that we had the continent again in view.

At this point I left in a conspicuous place a note, desiring Mr. Johnstone would return to the vessels by the way he had come; having before received directions, in case of his finally exploring the arm before us leading to the eastward, to endeavour to return to the vessels by the route we had pursued; this had now become unnecessary; and as the inlet at point Menzies had again divided itself into two branches, one extending in a south-easterly, and the other in a north-easterly direction, I had acquainted Mr. Johnstone, that I should prosecute the examination of the north-eastern branch, whilst he was employed in the other, if I met with no indications of his having preceded me. After quitting this point, we landed to breakfast on the before mentioned point of the continental shore, and there found, either left by accident or design, one of our kegs, which proved that Mr. Johnstone had reached that spot before us. In its bung-hole I left a note similar to the former.

The weather was now serene and pleasant. With a gentle south-west breeze, after breakfast, we continued to examine the north-east branch, and at noon I observed the latitude in its entrance to be 52° 19′ 30″; whence point Menzies will be found to lie in 52° 18′ 33″; being 4′ further north than the latitude assigned to that point on our former visit; but its longitude did not appear to require any correction.

On the north point of entrance into this branch I left a third note for Mr. Johnstone, lest he should not at this time have finished his south-eastern survey, and should hereafter pursue the examination of this arm, directing him as before to return home, as the whole extent within the limits of his intended excursion would now fall under my own investigation.

From hence we directed our course over to the eastern shore, where, observing a fire on the beach amongst the drift wood, we landed, and not only found evident signs of Mr. Johnstone’s party having recently quitted the beach, but on a tree was written with a burnt stick, “Gone by.” Any further attempts here on our part became therefore useless. That branch extended to the south-east, and from the light colour of the water we had passed through this morning, there was no doubt it had terminated in the usual way. In our progress to this station, we had passed five openings on the larboard or continental shore. Our attention was now directed to these objects, and having dined, we returned by the same way we had come, and rested for the night near our lodging of the preceding evening.

The appearance of the country we had passed by, varied in no respect from what has already been frequently described, excepting that the maple, birch, crab, and other small trees, seemed to be more numerous, and of a larger size. Two or three whales, one near point Menzies, several seals, and some sea otters had been seen; these were remarkably shy, as were two black bears that were observed on the shores.

The tide in this neighbourhood appeared to rise and fall about ten feet; and it is high water 10^h 20′ after the moon passes the meridian; but neither the ebb nor the flood appeared to occasion any general, or even visible, stream.

Early the next morning, Sunday the 2d, with rainy unpleasant weather, we again proceeded, keeping the starboard or continental shore on board, to the fifth unexamined opening, lying from point Edward on King’s island nearly north, about six miles; in general a mile, but sometimes a league wide. We passed an islet and some rocks, lying on the eastern or starboard shore, where we breakfasted, and afterwards continued our researches until about two o’clock, when we stopped to dine in a bay on the western shore, into which flowed the most considerable rivulet I had yet seen in this country. The tide was then at the lowest, yet it admitted our boats into its entrance, which is about thirty yards wide, and four feet deep, and discharged a rapid stream of fresh water, until prevented by the flood tide. The spring tides appeared to rise about seven feet. High water 11^h 10′ after the moon passes the meridian. This brook soon decreased in dimensions within the entrance, and shortly lost itself in a valley bounded at no great distance by high perpendicular mountains. Three Indians appeared on the opposite side of the brook. I endeavoured by signs and offers of trinkets to prevail on their crossing over to us, but without success; at length they gave us to understand by signs, that if we would go back to our party, who were at no great distance, they would follow in their canoe. They paddled after us a few yards, but again returned to the shore, on which one of them landed, and the other two again came forward. The man who had landed hastened back along the banks of the brook, with visible marks of fear, as we conjectured, towards their habitations. His apprehensions operated on the other two, who also retired up the brook in their canoe. As we were preparing to depart about three o’clock, this canoe, attended by another containing six or seven Indians, came down the rivulet; but notwithstanding every means was used to invite them, they would not venture nearer us than their companions had done before. I left some iron, knives, and trinkets near our fire, whither I had little doubt their curiosity would soon be directed.

From hence we proceeded about nine miles up the arm, still extending to the north-east, and preserving the same width. We passed a small island lying near the western shore; here we took up our abode for the night, and the next morning, Monday the 3d, again proceeded. The water was nearly fresh at low tide, but was not of a very light colour. Having gone about a league we arrived at a point on the western shore, from whence the arm took a direction N. N. W. for about three leagues, and then, as was most commonly the case, it terminated in low marshy land. On a small spot of low projecting land from the eastern shore, three or four natives were observed, who would not venture near us; and at a little distance from the shore, the trees appeared to have been cleared away for some extent, and a square, spacious platform was erected, lying horizontally, and supported by several upright spars of considerable thickness, and apparently not less than twenty-five or thirty feet high from the ground. A fire was burning on it at one end, but there was no appearance of any thing like a house, though we concluded that such was the use to which it was appropriated. After breakfast we returned by the same route we had arrived, and stopped at the point above mentioned to observe its latitude, which I found to be 52° 43½′, and its longitude 232° 55′. To this point I gave the name of Point Raphoe, and to the channel we had thus explored, Dean’s Channel. Quitting this point, we dined on our return at the same brook where we had stopped the preceding day; the Indians had taken the trinkets we had left for them, and although they were heard in the woods they did not make their appearance. From thence we proceeded towards the next unexplored inlet, until near dark, when we halted again for the night, and on the following morning, Tuesday the 4th, reached its entrance about half a mile wide, lying in a N. 50 W. direction. The weather was rough, chilly, and unpleasant, attended with much rain until near noon. At this time we had reached within a mile of the head of the arm, where the observed latitude was 52° 32′, longitude 232° 17′; this terminated like the others, and we returned by the same route we had come.

The width of this channel did not any where exceed three quarters of a mile; its shores were bounded by precipices much more perpendicular than any we had yet seen during this excursion; and from the summits of the mountains that overlooked it, particularly on its north-eastern shore, there fell several large cascades. These were extremely grand, and by much the largest and most tremendous of any we had ever beheld. The impetuosity with which these waters descended, produced a strong current of air that reached nearly to the opposite side of the channel, though it was perfectly calm in every other direction. At first I considered these cascades to have been solely occasioned by the melting of the snow on the mountains that surrounded us; but, on comparing them with several smaller falls of water, which, by their colour, by the soil brought down with them, and other circumstances, were evidently produced from that temporary cause; the larger torrents appeared to owe their origin to a more general and permanent source. This arm I distinguished by the name of Cascade Channel. Near its south point of entrance, we again met the friendly Indians who had so civilly invited us to their habitations; their intreaties were repeated, with which we complied, and we found their village to consist of seven houses, situated in a small rocky cove close round the point. On approaching near to their dwellings, they desired we would not land there, but on the opposite side of the cove; which we did, and by that means ingratiated ourselves in their favor, and secured their confidence. We were visited by about forty of the male inhabitants, but the women and young children who appeared to equal that number, remained in their houses. The construction of these was very curious; the back parts appeared to be supported by the projection of a very high, and nearly perpendicular, rocky cliff, and the front and sides by slender poles, about sixteen or eighteen feet high. I was much inclined to be better acquainted with these curious mansions; but the repugnance shewn by their owners to our entering them, induced me to decline the attempt, lest it might give them serious offence, and disturb the harmony that had taken place between us. Not one of them had a weapon of any kind, and they all conducted themselves in the most civil and orderly manner. Some medals and a few trinkets were given them, and in return we received a very indifferent sea otter skin, and some pieces of halibut. In this traffic they proved themselves to be keen traders, but acted with the strictest honesty.

Our visit here detained us about half an hour, after which we proceeded to the third unexplored opening. This was about S. 52 W., and about a league distant from the south point of Cascade channel; here we rested, and in the morning of Wednesday the 5th, found it terminate about two miles in a westerly direction. From thence we proceeded to the next arm; this was the first we had noticed to the eastward of that, of which on the 30th of May I had entertained doubts of its being the main branch of the inlet.

We were now favored with pleasant weather, and a gentle gale from the N. E. and S. E. This, by noon, brought us within about a mile of this arm’s termination, which, from its entrance in a N. N. E. direction, is about five miles; here I observed the latitude to be 52° 19′, the longitude 232° 13½′. This branch finished in a similar manner with the many others, though its shores were not so steep, nor did they afford such falls of water as were seen in Cascade channel. From hence we continued along the continental shore until the evening, when we reached the doubtful opening, and found its entrance to be in latitude 52° 12′, longitude 232° 7′; it is about three quarters of a mile wide, and has a small islet and several rocks extending from its north-east point. Between these rocks and the western shore there appeared to be a fair navigable channel.

About a mile up this opening on the starboard, or continental shore, we remained during the night on an insulated rock, that had formerly been appropriated to the residence of the natives. It forms the north point of entrance into a cove, where a sunken rock lies, not visible until half tide; within this rock is a clear sandy bottom, that might be found convenient for the purpose of laying small vessels aground to clean or repair, as we estimated the tide, though not near the height of the springs, to rise fourteen or fifteen feet, and to be high water at the time the moon passes the meridian. We were detained at this station by thick, foggy, and rainy weather, attended with a strong south-east gale, until ten o’clock in the forenoon of Thursday the 6th, when the fog in some measure clearing away, we proceeded in our researches up this arm. It lies in a general direction of N. 20 W., for about three leagues; the eastern or continental shore is steep and compact; but, on the western shore, we passed, five or six miles within the entrance, five rocky islets producing some trees, and admitting a passage for boats between them and the shore; and on the same side, about seven miles within the entrance, is a larger islet, having between it and the shore a rock; on which was an Indian village that contained many houses, and seemed to be very populous. We were no sooner discovered, than several large canoes were employed in transporting a number of the inhabitants to the shore on the western side, who instantly ran to the woods and hid themselves. Our route however, lying wide of either their village or their retirement, we did not increase their apprehensions by approaching nearer to them, but continued our survey up the arm that still took a northerly direction, leaving on the western shore a spacious opening extending to the westward, and passing a small island covered with pine trees, that lies nearly in mid-channel of the arm we were pursuing.

Having reached, about two in the afternoon, a point on the eastern shore, about ten miles from the entrance, we stopped to dine, and were here visited by some of the Indians from the village in two canoes. These were totally unarmed, and at first acted with a considerable degree of caution. A few trivial presents however soon dissipated their fears, and they became equally civil with those we had before seen, from whom they did not appear to differ, excepting in their being less cleanly; or more properly speaking, in being more bedaubed with oil and paints. They remained with us until our dinner was over, sold us two or three otter skins, the only commodity they brought for barter, and when we proceeded they returned home.

From this point we found the arm take first a direction N. 40 E. near a league, and then N. 30 W. about five miles further; it was in general from half to three quarters of a mile wide, and terminated as usual in low swampy land, in latitude 52° 28½′, longitude 232° 4′. From hence we returned and halted for the night, about two miles from its head on the western shore.

The next morning, Friday the 7th, we proceeded to the branch leading to the westward, that we had passed the preceding day; and about eight o’clock reached a small island lying near the northern shore, about two miles to the westward of its entrance, situated in latitude 52° 19¾′, longitude 232° 1′. Here we stopped to breakfast, and were again visited by our friends from the village on the rock, whose behaviour was similar to what we had before experienced.

The weather became serene and pleasant, with a gentle breeze from the south-west. We now quitted the high steep snowy mountains, composing the shores we had lately traversed; for the sides of the opening before us, comparatively speaking, might be considered as land of moderate height. Its surface covered with wood was very uneven, and being very similar to the general appearance of the land near the sea coast, gave us reason to believe this channel would lead towards the ocean.

The continental shore had been accurately traced to our present station, and the communication of this channel with the ocean became an object I much wished to ascertain, before the vessels should be removed further into this interior and intricate navigation; well knowing the tardy and disagreeable progress in so doing. To effect this purpose in the best manner I was able, I continued to trace the channel leading westward, passing by on the starboard or continental shore, an opening that appeared to terminate in a spacious bay, at the distance of about two miles. Another opening was seen immediately to the westward of this bay, that appeared of considerable extent, leading to the N. N. W. and had two small islands nearly in the centre of its entrance; but, as we had now been nine days from the ship, our stock of provisions was too much reduced to admit of our undertaking further examinations, especially as every foot we advanced we had additional reasons for supposing we should find a channel in this neighbourhood that would lead to the ocean. From the last opening the coast trended S. 40 W.; in which direction I well knew we could not long continue, without meeting the sea; and having proceeded thus nearly a league, I stopped about noon at a point on the north-west shore to observe the latitude, which was 52° 17′, longitude 231° 54′; and whilst I was so employed, Mr. Swaine was sent forward with directions, on his discovering a clear channel to sea, to return. As I was preparing to follow him, the cutter was seen coming back; Mr. Swaine reported, that from a point lying S. 48 W. a mile and a half from our then station, he had seen the ocean in a direction S. 70 W.; the furthest land being about three or four leagues distant.

Being now satisfied that all the land forming the sea coast, from the south entrance into Fitzhugh’s sound, to the place from whence we now looked into the ocean, consisted of two extensive islands, that were again probably much subdivided; I considered the object of our errand accomplished, and we sat off on our return towards the station of the vessels, from whence we were 45 miles distant. In the evening we passed close to the rock on which the village last mentioned is situated; it appeared to be about half a mile in circuit, and was intirely occupied by the habitations of the natives. These appeared to be well constructed; the boards forming the sides of the houses were well fitted, and the roofs rose from each side with sufficient inclination to throw off the rain. The gable ends were decorated with curious painting, and near one or two of the most conspicuous mansions were carved figures in large logs of timber, representing a gigantic human form, with strange and uncommonly distorted features. Some of our former visitors again came off, and conducted themselves as before with great civility; but these as well as those on shore, had great objections to our landing at their village; the latter making signs to us to keep off, and the former giving us to understand, that our company was not desired at their habitations. Their numbers, I should imagine, amounted at least to three hundred. After gratifying our friends with some presents, they returned to their rock, and we continued our route homewards.

About noon of Saturday the 8th, in a bay opposite an opening on the western shore, that had the appearance of communicating with the ocean, we fell in with about forty men, women, and children of the same tribe of Indians we had met on the first day. These received us with the same kind of caution we had before experienced, and desired we would land at a rock a little distant from the party. On complying with their wishes, we were visited by most of the men and boys, who, after receiving some presents, gave us fully to understand, that the women would have had no objection to our company; but having still a long pull against wind and tide before we could reach the ships, I declined their civil solicitations.

The whole of this party were employed in gathering cockles, and in preparing a sort of paste from the inner bark of a particular kind of pine tree, intended we supposed as a substitute for bread; this they washed in the sea water, beat it very hard on the rocks, and then made it up into balls. It had a sweetish taste, was very tender, and if we may judge from their actions, it seemed by them to be considered as good food.

This, as well as the cockles, they offered in abundance, in return for nails and trinkets, but we accepted only a few of the latter.

About ten at night we arrived on board, where I found all well, and most of our material work executed. Mr. Baker informed me, that the weather had been very unpleasant during my absence, and according to his account infinitely worse than what we had experienced; this had greatly protracted the necessary duties of the ship, and prevented due observations being made for ascertaining our situation, and the rate of the chronometers; I was apprehensive, that the few that had been obtained were all that on the present occasion were likely to be procured.

The next morning, Sunday the 9th, Mr. Johnstone informed me, that on the forenoon of the 30th of May he reached point Menzies, from whence he found an arm lying in a direction with little variation S. 33 E. By noon they had advanced about five miles from point Menzies, where the latitude was observed to be 52° 15′, and about four miles further passed an island on the eastern shore. The weather being pleasant, great progress was made until the evening, when they reached its termination in latitude 52° 1′, longitude 233° 18′. Its width in general a little exceeded a mile, and the surrounding country exactly resembled that which we had found contiguous to the branches of the sea that have been so repeatedly described. Here the party halted for the night, and at day-light the next morning returned. On the eastern side of this channel, near the head of a small rivulet, they had noticed on the preceding evening a house of a very singular construction, but perceived no signs of its being inhabited. As they now advanced some smoke was observed, and three Indians approached them with much caution, and shewing great disapprobation at their landing; on receiving some nails and trinkets they however became reconciled, and attended Mr. Johnstone with some of the gentlemen of his party to their habitations. These were found to be of a different construction from any they had before seen; they were erected on a platform similar to that seen in my late excursion, and mentioned as being raised and supported near thirty feet from the ground by perpendicular spars of a very large size; the whole occupying a space of about thirty-five yards by fifteen, was covered in by a roof of boards lying nearly horizontal, and parallel to the platform; it seemed to be divided into three different houses, or rather apartments, each having a separate access formed by a long tree in an inclined position from the platform to the ground, with notches cut in it by way of steps, about a foot and a half asunder. Up one of these ladders Mr. Johnstone, with one of his party only, was suffered to ascend, and by removing a broad board placed as a kind of door on the platform where the ladder rested, they entered on a small area before the door of the house or apartment to which the ladder belonged. Here they found four of the natives posted, each bearing a rude weapon made of iron, not unlike a dagger. They only permitted Mr. Johnstone to look about him, and seemed much averse to his entering the house, which he prudently did not insist upon; but so far as he was able to observe within doors, their internal arrangements differed little or nothing from the domestic œconomy of the Indians already seen on the shores of North-West America. The number of inhabitants seen at this curious place did not exceed a dozen or fourteen, but amongst them were neither women nor children. Mr. Johnstone discovered from this that their landing had excited no small degree of alarm; which greatly subsided on their departure. Three very small canoes only were seen, and these seemed, from their construction, capable of performing no other service than that of fishing in the small streams that are frequently met with at the head of these channels. At the mouth of the creek were a great number of wicker fish pots, which induced the party to ask for something to eat, but instead of fish, the natives brought them a kind of paste or bread, supposed to be made from the inner rind of the pine. Their language was quite new to our party, and they appeared to be totally unacquainted with that of Nootka.

From this curious place of residence Mr. Johnstone came back along the eastern shore, and about five miles from the termination of the channel he observed the latitude to be 52° 4′. About seven the next morning (1st of June) the arm leading to the north-eastward was entered; this was found about one mile and a quarter wide, lying in a direction of N. 62 E. from its north point of entrance; and, at the distance of eleven miles, it terminated in the usual way; in latitude 52° 26′, longitude 233° 16′. Here was another habitation of the same sort. Having now completed the examination of this branch, the party returned along its northern shores, and at the point of entrance Mr. Johnstone found my directions to return to the vessels, which they reached in the forenoon of the next day. In their way they saw several bears; two young cubs were killed, and proved excellent eating.

I now directed Mr. Johnstone to proceed immediately and examine the arm leading to the north north-westward, which I had passed on the forenoon of the 7th; to follow it as far as it might lead, or his provisions allow, and to return to its entrance, where he would find the vessels at anchor near the two small islands; but in the event of his business being finished before the ships should arrive, he was to leave a note on the northernmost of the islands, mentioning his arrival and departure, and proceed to the survey of the coast further to the westward, and to gain every information with respect to the channel we had discovered leading to sea. With these directions, and a week’s provisions, attended by Mr. Barrie in the Discovery’s small cutter, he departed in the forenoon.

I had intended to proceed with the ships the next morning, but on visiting the observatory, I found another day’s corresponding altitudes would be very desirable; for which purpose I determined to remain a day longer. The magazine also, being yet damp, would be benefited by further airing with fires. The powder which had been all aired, and found in better condition than was expected, remained on shore until the next morning, Monday the 10th, when the weather being rainy and unpleasant, without the least prospect of any alteration, the observatory with every thing else was taken from the shore; and in the afternoon we weighed and towed out of the cove, which I distinguished by the name of Restoration Cove, having there passed and celebrated the anniversary of that happy event.

During my absence some excellent spruce was brewed from the pine trees found here, and a sufficient supply of fish for the use of all hands was every day procured. The gentlemen on board did not long remain without being visited by the natives, who seemed to be of three different tribes, each having distinct chiefs, named Keyut, Comockshulah, Whacosh; they seemed all on very friendly and amicable terms with each other, and conducted themselves with the greatest good order on board. Their language, it seems, much resembled that of the people on Queen Charlotte’s islands, through which some on board were able to make themselves understood. From Whacosh they had learned, that he had fallen in with our boats at some distance; this had been really the case, as he was one of those who had visited me from the large village on the detached rock. They brought for barter the skins of the sea otter and other animals, some of which were purchased with copper and iron.

This uninteresting region afforded nothing further worthy of notice, excepting the soundings, the dimensions of the cove, and the very few astronomical and nautical observations, that, under the unfavorable circumstances of the weather, could be procured.

The breadth of the cove at the entrance, in a north and south direction, is about a mile and a quarter, and its depth, from the centre of the entrance in a north-east direction, is three quarters of a mile. The soundings, though deep, are regular, from sixty fathoms at the entrance, to five and ten fathoms close to the shore. The land on the opposite side of the arm is about two miles and a half distant.

The astronomical observations made at this station were,

But, as I considered this authority insufficient for establishing the several rates of the instruments, the longitude of the different stations hereafter mentioned will be deduced from such observations as we were able to obtain, when an opportunity offered for getting the observatory again on shore.

The variation by two compasses taken on shore, differing in six sets from 17° 49′ to 20° 28′, gave a mean result of 19° 15′, eastwardly.

The tide was found to rise and fall fourteen feet, the night tides were in general one foot higher than in the day time, the flood came from the south, and it was high water at the time the moon passed the meridian.

The winds were light and variable, attended with rainy unpleasant weather; we continued under sail all night, and with the assistance of the ebb tide in the morning of Tuesday the 11th, reached Fisher’s channel. A moderate breeze springing up from the S. S. W. we directed our course to the northward, and by noon arrived in the arm of the inlet that had been discovered by the boats to lead into the sea. Our observed latitude at this time being 52° 12′, agreed very nearly with our former observations. The favorable breeze soon left us, and at three o’clock we anchored within a cable’s length of the western shore in fifty-eight fathoms water, about a league to the southward of the Indian village on the detached rock. Though it was not in sight from the ship, yet our arrival was not long unknown to its inhabitants, several of whom came off, and brought in their canoes sea otter and other skins to exchange for iron and copper; the articles principally in request amongst them. All their dealings were carried on with confidence, and the strictest honesty.

A small stream of tide making in our favor, we weighed, and although we had the assistance of all our boats a-head until near midnight, we did not advance above a mile before we were obliged to anchor again near the western shore in fifty-three fathoms water. In this situation we remained until eight in the morning of Wednesday the 12th, when we proceeded; but so slowly, that at noon the village bore west of us at the distance of about half a mile, and the rendezvous appointed with Mr. Johnstone nearly in the same direction about a league further. This we reached by six in the evening, and anchored in twenty-two fathoms water, steadying the ship by a hawser to a tree, on the northernmost island; where I found a note from Mr. Johnstone, stating that he had quitted that station at three o’clock on Monday afternoon, and had proceeded in the examination of the arm before us leading to the north north-westward. We were therefore to wait his return here.

The next morning, Thursday the 13th, we tried the seine, but it was not attended with the least success. A great number of muscles however were procured, and converted into good palatable dishes. Our Indian friends, though not far from us, were out of sight, and did not make their appearance; this might be partly owing to the dark, gloomy, rainy weather, that continued all Friday the 14th, but which did not then prevent our receiving the compliments of some, amongst whom was Whacosh, with two other chiefs of consequence, one named Amzeet, the other Nestaw Daws. The latter I had seen on our boat excursion, amongst the first natives who came from the village; from whence, exclusive of the chiefs, we were now visited by many of the inhabitants, who brought the skins of the sea otter and other animals for barter, but we could not obtain any supply of fish. The same uncomfortable weather, with little or no intermission, continued until towards noon of Sunday the 16th, when the rain ceased, but the weather continued unpleasant, dark, and gloomy.

Most of our Indian friends were about us, and beside the chiefs before mentioned came a chief I had not before seen, whose name was Moclah. The whole party, consisting of an hundred and upwards, conducted themselves with great good order. One or two trivial thefts were attempted, but these being instantly detected, and great displeasure shewn on the occasion, nothing of the sort happened afterwards. Amongst the skins brought for sale, was that of the animal from whence the wool is procured, with which the woollen garments, worn by the inhabitants of North-West America, are made. These appeared evidently too large to belong to any animal of the canine race, as we had before supposed. They were, exclusively of the head or tail, fifty inches long; and thirty-six inches broad, exclusively of the legs. The wool seemed to be afforded but in a small proportion to the size of the skin. It is principally produced on the back and towards the shoulders, where a kind of crest is formed by long bristly hairs, that protrude themselves through the wool, and the same sort of hair forms an outer covering to the whole animal, and intirely hides the wool, which is short, and of a very fine quality. All the skins of this description that were brought to us were intirely white, or rather of a cream colour; the pelt was thick, and appeared of a strong texture, but the skins were too much mutilated to discover the kind of animal to which they had belonged.

In the afternoon we had the honour of a female party on board. Those of the women who appeared of the most consequence, had adopted a very singular mode of adorning their persons. And although some sort of distortion or mutilation was a prevailing fashion with the generality of the Indian tribes we had seen, yet the peculiarity of that we now beheld, was of all others the most particular, and the effect of its appearance the most extraordinary. A horizontal incision is made, about three tenths of an inch below the upper part of the under lip, extending from one corner of the mouth to the other intirely through the flesh; this orifice is then by degrees stretched sufficiently to admit an ornament made of wood, which is confined close to the gums of the lower jaws, and whose external surface projects horizontally.

These wooden ornaments are oval, and resemble a small oval platter or dish made concave on both sides; they are of various sizes, but the smallest I was able to procure was about two inches and a half; the largest was three inches and four tenths in length, and an inch and a half broad; the others decreased in breadth in proportion to their length. They are about four tenths of an inch in thickness, and have a groove along the middle of the outside edge, for the purpose of receiving the divided lip. These hideous appendages are made of fir, and neatly polished, but present a most unnatural appearance, and are a species of deformity, and an instance of human absurdity, that would scarcely be credited without ocular proof.

It appeared very singular, that in the regions of New Georgia, where the principal part of the people’s clothing is made of wool, we never saw the animal nor the skin from which the raw material was procured. And though I had every reason to believe, that those animals are by no means scarce in this neighbourhood, yet we did not observe one person amongst our present visitors in a woollen garment. The clothing of the natives here was either skins of the sea otter, or garments made from the pine bark; some of these latter have the fur of the sea otter, very neatly wrought into them, and have a border to the sides and bottom, decorated with various colours. In this only they use woollen yarn, very fine, well spun, and dyed for the purpose; particularly with a very lively and beautiful yellow.

We at first considered the inhabitants of this region to be a much finer race of men than those further south; the difference however appeared less conspicuous, when they were seen in greater numbers, probably owing to our having become more familiar with their persons, and to their having performed a long journey to visit us, in extremely rough rainy weather. Their dispositions, as far as our short acquaintance will authorize an opinion, appeared to be civil, good-humoured, and friendly. The vivacity of their countenances indicated a lively genius, and from their repeated bursts of laughter, it would appear that they were great humourists, for their mirth was not confined to their own party, or wholly resulting from thence, but was frequently at our expence; so perfectly were they at ease in our society.

The chiefs generally approached us with the ceremony of first rowing round the vessels, and departed in the same manner, singing a song that was by no means unpleasing; this was sometimes continued until they had retired a considerable distance. They seemed a happy cheerful people, and to live in the strictest harmony and good fellowship with each other. They were well versed in commerce; of this we had manifest proof in their disposal of the skins of the sea otter, and other animals; about one hundred and eighty of the former I believe were purchased by different persons on board, in the course of their several visits. This number seemed nearly to have exhausted their stock, as most of the chiefs took their leave, as if they had no intention of returning, and in the same friendly and cheerful manner as before related.

The bay immediately to the eastward of this opening, which I had not very minutely examined, had been found by a shooting party not to be closed, as I had imagined, but to communicate, by a channel about a cable’s length in width, with a narrow arm, about a fourth of a mile wide, extending in another direction; this, on Monday morning the 17th, I sent Mr. Swaine to explore, who found it terminate about three leagues from the entrance of the bay, in latitude 52° 29′, longitude 232° 2′.

This day in the afternoon, and for a few minutes about one o’clock the day before, the sun made its appearance, and enabled me to procure some observations for the longitude by the chronometers, but not for the latitude; I had however, whilst on the survey in the boats not more than two leagues to the westward of this station, an excellent observation for this purpose; and from hence I judged, that by placing our anchorage in latitude 52° 20½′, longitude 231° 58½′, it will be found nearly correct.

In the evening the Chatham’s cutter, and the Discovery’s small cutter returned, after having had a very disagreeable, fatiguing, and laborious excursion; rendered very distressing by the melancholy loss of John Carter, one of our seamen, who had unfortunately been poisoned by eating muscles. Two or three others of the party narrowly escaped the same fate.

The first day after their departure from the vessels, they met with some of the natives who had some halibut recently caught, and although very high prices were offered, the Indians could not be induced to part with any of these fish; this was singular, and indicated a very scanty supply of this species of food. As they passed the village on the rock, the inhabitants appeared to regard them with great attention and friendship. Their chief Whacosh being down on the rocks, some presents were sent to him, and he seemed to receive them with great pleasure. When the party left this station, they found the opening, though not more than a quarter of a mile wide in some places, to be a clear and navigable channel, lying in a direction N. 18 W. for about eight miles, where it united with a more extensive one about half a league wide, which took a direction N. 15 E. and S. 15 W. This appeared the most extensive, but their object was the pursuit of the other. On its eastern side were found two large bays, or rather basons. In the southernmost of these are some rocky islets. The next morning brought no alteration in the weather, which continued extremely bad and rainy; yet they proceeded again, and were joined by half a dozen of the natives in two small canoes, of whom they purchased a small fish, being all they had to dispose of. The wind blew very strong in squalls from the south-east, attended with constant rain. At five in the afternoon they reached the head of the arm, where it terminated in latitude 52° 36½′, longitude 232°. The evening being fair, some progress was made in their way back by the same route they had advanced; and having stopped for the night, the above channel was pursued in its southern direction in the morning of the 12th. This continued nearly straight, making the land that forms the west side of this opening an island. On its western shore they found a considerable village, from whence several of the natives visited them in their canoes. These were mostly small, containing only four or five persons in each; excepting one, in which there were thirty-two men. They conducted themselves in a very proper manner, and in a friendly way invited our party to their habitations; a civility that it was thought most proper to decline. Having passed to the northward of some detached rocks, and rocky islets, they reached the south-west point of the channel, situated in latitude 52° 15′, longitude 231° 45′. This communicated with another channel about two miles wide, that took an east and west direction; the former towards the station of the ships, the latter towards the ocean, being the same that had been discovered in my examination. From thence they pursued the continental coast about a league, lying in a direction from this point N. 72 W.; its shores are low and rocky, with several detached islets and rocks lying near them. From this situation they had an unlimited view of the ocean, between south and S. W. by W. The wind blowing strong from this quarter, produced a very heavy surf on the shores, which prevented their making any further progress to the westward; and being then abreast of a small opening extending to the northward, interspersed with rocks and breakers, Mr. Johnstone entered it contrary to his inclinations, as it was by no means eligible for the navigation of shipping, but the wind and sea totally preventing their making any progress further westward, he was compelled to take shelter there from the inclemency of the weather; and during the night it blew a strong gale of wind, attended by torrents of rain. The return of day (the 13th) presented no alternative, but that of remaining inactive, or of pursuing the small branch leading to the northward. This soon communicated with a more extensive channel. The length of the narrow passage is about half a league, the width fifty yards, and the shoalest water five fathoms. The larger channel had communication with the sea by falling into an opening about a league in a south-west direction, and thence continued nearly north about three miles. In this line they pursued the examination of the continent, through another very narrow channel that suddenly widened to three quarters of a mile, and a little further increased in width to two miles, extending, though somewhat irregularly, N. 15 E. about twenty-eight miles, to an arm leading to the eastward, whose northern point of entrance is in latitude 52° 46½′, longitude 231° 51′. This arm was not reached before noon on the 14th, when it was found to extend from the above point about four miles and a half, in nearly an east direction; about two miles from whence, further to the north-east, it terminated. In general it was about half a mile wide. On the northern shore of this arm, some Indians visited them without the least hesitation, attended them up the arm, and gave our party to understand that it was closed; which afterwards proved so. In returning they passed near the village of these good people, who having remained with them most of the afternoon, took their leave, after conducting themselves in a very orderly and friendly manner. Mr. Johnstone describes their habitation as consisting of only one large dwelling made with broad planks; the roof covered with the same materials, and nearly flat. It was built on the top of a precipice against the side of a steep rocky cliff, by which means the access to it was rendered difficult; the party did not land, but they estimated the number of its inhabitants to be about seventy or eighty. They were not visited by any of the women; but those who were seen in passing wore the hideous lip ornaments above described. Towards the evening the weather cleared up, and the night was tolerably fair.

In the morning of the 15th, the examination of the continental shore was continued, and from the above north point of this arm the channel was found to extend in a direction N. 24 W. about five miles, where the larboard or western shore formed a sharp point, from whence another branch took a direction S. 55 W., and united with that which they had navigated for about four miles and a half north; then took a direction N. 70 E., four miles further, where it terminated in latitude 52° 56½′, longitude 231° 54′, forming some little bays on the southern side. In one of these they stopped to breakfast, where finding some muscles, a few of the people ate of them roasted; as had been their usual practice when any of these fish were met with; about nine o’clock they proceeded in very rainy unpleasant weather down the south-westerly channel, and about one landed for the purpose of dining. Mr. Johnstone was now informed by Mr. Barrie, that soon after they had quitted the cove, where they had breakfasted, several of the crew who had eaten of the muscles were seized with a numbness about their faces and extremities; their whole bodies were very shortly affected in the same manner, attended with sickness and giddiness. Mr. Barrie had, when in England, experienced a similar disaster, from the same cause, and was himself indisposed on the present occasion. Recollecting that he had received great relief by violent perspiration, he took an oar, and earnestly advised those who were unwell, viz. John Carter, John M‘Alpin, and John Thomas, to use their utmost exertions in pulling, in order to throw themselves into a profuse perspiration; this Mr. Barrie effected in himself, and found considerable relief; but the instant the boat landed, and their exertions at the oar ceased, the three seamen were obliged to be carried on shore. One man only in the Chatham’s boat was indisposed in a similar way. Mr. Johnstone entertained no doubt of the cause from which this evil had arisen, and having no medical assistance within his reach, ordered warm water to be immediately got ready, in the hope, that by copiously drinking, the offending matter might have been removed. Carter attracted nearly the whole of their attention, in devising every means to afford him relief, by rubbing his temples and body, and applying warm cloths to his stomach; but all their efforts at length proved ineffectual, and being unable to swallow the warm water, the poor fellow expired about half an hour after he was landed. His death was so tranquil, that it was some little time before they could be perfectly certain of his dissolution. There was no doubt that this was occasioned by a poison contained in the muscles he had eaten about eight o’clock in the morning; at nine he first found himself unwell, and died at half past one; he pulled his oar until the boat landed, but when he arose to go on shore he fell down, and never more got up, but by the assistance of his companions. From his first being taken his pulse was regular, though it gradually grew fainter and weaker until he expired, when his lips turned black, and his hands, face, and neck were much swelled. Such was the foolish obstinacy of the others who were affected, that it was not until this poor unfortunate fellow resigned his life, that they could be prevailed upon to drink the hot water; his fate however induced them to follow the advice of their officers, and the desired effect being produced, they all obtained great relief; and though they were not immediately restored to their former state of health, yet, in all probability, it preserved their lives. From Mr. Barrie’s account it appeared, that the evil had arisen, not from the number of muscles eaten, but from the deleterious quality of some particular ones; and these he conceived were those gathered on the sand, and not those taken from the rocks. Mr. Barrie had eaten as many as any of the party, and was the least affected by them.

This very unexpected and unfortunate circumstance detained the boats about three hours; when, having taken the corpse on board, and refreshed the three men, who still remained incapable of assisting themselves, with some warm tea, and having covered them up warm in the boat, they continued their route, in very rainy, unpleasant weather, down the south-west channel, until they stopped in a bay for the night, where they buried the dead body. To this bay I gave the name of Carter’s Bay, after this poor unfortunate fellow; it is situated in latitude 52° 48′, longitude 231° 42′: and to distinguish the fatal spot where the muscles were eaten, I have called it Poison Cove, and the branch leading to it Muscle Channel.

In the morning of the 16th, having advanced a small distance from Carter’s bay, they found the arm divide into two branches; one taking a southerly direction, about two miles wide, had the appearance of communicating with the ocean, the other took a north-westerly direction along the shores of the continent; and, from the appearance of the neighbouring mountains, it seemed likely to prove extensive. But, from the reduced state of the party, Mr. Johnstone, very judiciously, did not think it adviseable to undertake its examination, but pursued that leading to the southward; convinced that this, if found to communicate with the channel they had been in leading to the sea, would be by far the most eligible route for the vessels or boats to pursue, in carrying into execution the further survey of the continental shore.

This branch soon took a south direction, the shores on both sides were much broken, and each had the appearance of composing an archipelago of islands. The wind being against them their progress was slow; however before dark they gained a very satisfactory view of the ocean, being now further advanced to the westward, in the same channel from whence it had been before observed. The next morning they passed the narrow channel they had been obliged to enter on the 12th, and arrived on board, as before stated. The very unfavorable weather, during their absence, had not afforded them one fair day, or an opportunity of ascertaining the latitude, either by meridional or double altitude.

M‘Alpin and Thomas, by this time, as well as the man belonging to the Chatham, were a little recovered; they were excessively weak, and still complained of numbness and dizziness, as also of a violent pain in their bowels. They were instantly taken under the surgeon’s care, and treated with every attention and assistance which the nature of their situation required.

No time was to be lost in proceeding to the station where Mr. Johnstone had quitted the examination of the continental shore. For this purpose, about nine in the morning of Tuesday the 18th, it being calm, all our boats were employed in towing us round the west point of this opening, which, though not more than a mile from our anchorage, was not effected until one o’clock in the afternoon. By eleven at night we had advanced only two leagues further to the south-west, where we anchored. Our situation was nearly a mile to the north-east of the south point of the island, forming the west side of the opening we had quitted, and from which Mr. Swaine had seen the ocean. This channel is a more northerly one than that by which Mr. Johnstone had returned.

On the next morning, Wednesday the 19th, either a brig or a schooner was seen standing towards the sea, in a passage to the southward of our then station, but was soon out of sight, owing to the many intervening islands between us and the ocean. In our way thither were some islands and rocks; Mr. Johnstone had passed to the south of these, but as our nearest way was to the north of them, I went with the boats to take a short survey of the channel before us, and obtained some necessary angles for fixing its several parts, leaving directions for the vessels to follow in my absence. Although I saw many rocks and breakers in this channel, they were all sufficiently conspicuous to be avoided in fair weather, so that I had no hesitation in proceeding with the vessels, although the channel was extremely intricate; and having got a good observation for the latitude at noon, I returned on board. On my arrival I found, that in near four hours the Discovery had gained only half a mile, and was beginning to lose even that advantage. This compelled us to anchor between the above south point of the island, and a small round island, at a little distance from the east point of which lie an islet and a sunken rock. The depth of water was 35 fathoms, soft bottom. The south point of the island, situated in latitude 52° 17½′, longitude 231° 53′, bore by compass N. W. a fourth of a mile distant; the passage leading out to sea, S. 53 W., and the small round island, S. S. E., at the distance of a cable and an half. The weather was clear and pleasant, but as we had a fresh breeze from S. W., we remained at anchor until eleven at night; when the wind ceasing, and the ebb tide making in our favor, with the assistance of our boats we made some progress towards the north-west extreme of a cluster of islands, lying off the north-west point of a spacious sound, extending to the S. S. E. amongst the islands that lie before the continent. This extremity is not more than two miles S. 68 W. from our last anchorage; yet it was not until after day-light on the morning of Thursday the 20th, that we passed between it and a cluster of low barren rocks, that lie from it S. 74 W. at the distance of a mile.

About half a league within these rocks, in a westerly direction, nearly reaching to the continental shore, are two rocky islets covered with wood; about them are some sunken rocks, and another cluster of low barren rocks, between the rocky islets and the rocks first mentioned; in whose neighbourhood are several sunken rocks, so that the safest passage is that we had passed through, in which there are some detached rocks near the shores of the cluster of small islands; these however extend but a little distance; and in all other respects, so far as appeared to us, the passage was tolerably free from danger. Having got through this passage, we were favored with a light north-easterly breeze, with which we stood to the westward in a channel about two miles wide, that led into the arm by which Mr. Johnstone had returned from Carter’s bay. The southern side of this channel being intirely covered with trees, presented, from the lowness of the shores, a prospect very grateful to the eye, and the several bays formed by the projecting parts of the sandy beaches that chiefly compose the shore, indicated a pleasant communication with the land; but the coast on the opposite side was formed by a rude, confused mass of low rugged cliffs, and bounded by innumerable rocky islets and rocks, as well beneath as above the surface of the water.

Having passed between this rugged north-eastern shore and some rocks that lie about half a league to the westward of it, we were so far advanced as to gain a distant view of this inlet in most directions, particularly in that towards the ocean; and on comparing it with some printed sketches on board, no doubt remained of its being the same that had been discovered by Mr. Duncan, and named Milbank’s sound. The delineation of the shores by Mr. Duncan, bore a strong resemblance to those before us, although we materially disagreed with him in the latitude; there could, however, be no doubt as to the identity of the place, and I have therefore continued the name given to it by Mr. Duncan.

The north-east wind was succeeded by a calm; during this interval, the swell and tide sat us towards the eastern shore near some of its sunken rocks, where the soundings were very irregular, from sixty to thirty-five fathoms, rocky bottom. We were, however, soon relieved from this unpleasant situation, by a fine breeze springing up from the south-west; when our course was directed up the arm leading from Milbank’s sound to Carter’s bay. The wind blowing a gentle gale, attended with serene and cheerful weather, gave the country as we passed a very pleasant appearance. The land constituting the shores of the external or sea coast was low, or rather moderately elevated, rising in a pleasing diversity of hills intirely covered with wood; and had we not been well acquainted with the rocky foundation from which such forests are produced, we might have been led to suppose that the soil before us was in the highest degree luxuriant.

Some observations were procured for ascertaining our situation. These, with those made the preceding day, were very satisfactory, and corrected Mr. Johnstone’s survey during his late expedition, when he was prevented making any celestial observations by the inclemency of the weather. At noon the observed latitude was 52° 24′, longitude 231° 37′. The north-west point of entrance into Milbank’s sound now bore by compass S. 16 W. and the south-east point, named after the third lieutenant of the Discovery, Cape Swaine, S. 13 E.; in this direction was a small island about two miles and a half from us; and from that island S. 14 W. at the distance of about half a league, lies a very dangerous sunken rock. We passed to the westward of these, but the Chatham went between them and the eastern shore, which still continued broken and rocky, forming a passage with the above sunken rock and breakers about half a mile wide, where the soundings were found to be very irregular. On the western shore an opening was seen extending N. 88 W. having the appearance of leading to sea, with two very large low flat rocks lying before it; the nearest shore was on that side, and bore W. N. W. at the distance of a mile.

Cape Swaine was found by our observations to be in latitude 52° 13′, longitude 231° 40′; and the north-west point of entrance into Milbank’s sound, which I called point Day, off which lie several barren rocky islets, in latitude 52° 14½′, longitude 231° 27′; being in point of latitude 15′ to the south of the situation assigned to it by Mr. Duncan, and who considers its longitude to be 50′ to the westward of our calculations. As the day advanced the south-westwardly breeze freshened with pleasant weather. The Chatham was directed to lead, and by four in the afternoon, having reached the extent of Mr. Johnstone’s researches, we directed our route up a channel about half a mile wide, leading to the north-westward, whose entrance from Milbank’s sound is situated in latitude 52° 47′, and longitude 231° 37′. As we advanced in a direction from its entrance N. 55 W. the channel narrowed to about a fourth of a mile, and having proceeded about four miles, the Chatham suddenly found only six fathoms water, on a shoal stretching from the starboard or continental shore into mid-channel; this we passed on the opposite side in 18 and 20 fathoms water. Beyond this, which is the narrowest part of the channel, formed by a high round projecting part of the south-west shore, appearing like an island; the arm widened to near half a league, and an extensive opening, taking a southerly direction, indicated a communication with the ocean.

The wind continuing favorable, and the weather pleasant, we made a tolerably good progress along the continental shore until about nine in the evening, when we anchored in 58 fathoms water, within about half a cable’s length of the south point of an opening leading to the eastward, where the tides were very strong and irregular. The region we had been navigating since noon, had gradually increased in its elevation, and we were again encompassed by high, steep, rocky, snow-capped mountains, forming various chasms, and producing a forest of pine trees nearly to their very summits.

As I intended to prosecute our examination thus along the starboard shore, until I should find sufficient employment for two parties to take different directions in the boats, we proceeded the next morning, Friday the 21st, but it being calm, with the utmost efforts of our boats a-head we gained only half a league by noon. Soon after this time, the wind, though variable, assisted us, and we advanced about two leagues. Another opening was passed on the starboard shore; and about seven in the evening we arrived in a situation N. 32 W. from our last anchorage, where the main branch of the inlet appeared to take two directions, one to the north-west, the other to the westward, with an island lying at their junction; the two branches being divided by a high ridge of steep mountains. Off the extremity of the starboard shore, in the above line of direction, was a small islet, and south of it a little sandy bay, where we anchored, and steadied the ship with a hawser to the shore.

The following morning, Saturday the 22d, Mr. Whidbey, with the large cutter, attended by Mr. Humphreys in the launch, provided with supplies for a week, were dispatched to the openings we had left unexplored behind. And Mr. Johnstone, in the Discovery’s small cutter, attended by Mr. Barrie in the Chatham’s launch, were sent to examine the branch leading to the westward and the larboard shore, so long as their week’s supplies would hold out, or until the branch should be found to communicate with the sea, or bring the party back to the ship’s station; in which case a report was to be made on board, prior to undertaking the survey of the north-west branch, as I intended that service for Mr. Whidbey’s execution after he should have examined the openings to the southward, in the event of his returning before Mr. Johnstone.

The poison which our people had received by eating the muscles, appeared by no means of so malignant a nature as to have remained unsubdued, could proper remedies have been timely applied. The means used for their recovery on their arrival on board was first an emetic; this operated very well; at bed time anodynes procured them good rest; these were followed the next day by cathartics, which had a powerful effect, gave great relief, and produced considerable abatement in the unpleasant symptoms; and with the assistance of diaphoretic medicines, and a strict attention to the complaints in their bowels, so intirely removed the malady, that one of the men was able this day to take his station in the boat, but the others not being quite so much recovered, were excused from duty some days longer.

The melancholy event that attended the discovery of the poisonous quality in the muscles, though it may probably be the means of preserving many lives in future, was to us, independently of the loss we had sustained, attended with circumstances additionally mortifying. Wherever we had found these fish, they were sure to afford us a pleasant and palatable fresh meal. Prudence however now directed that we should abstain from them; which, to persons in our situation, especially when detached from the ships, and frequently on a very scanty allowance, was the privation of no small comfort.

The weather enabled me to obtain some good observations, and in the evening Mr. Whidbey returned, having found the southern opening to extend N. 85 E. about five miles, and the other N. 72 E. about three miles, where each terminated as usual. This ascertained and traced the continental shore completely up to this station. At four o’clock next morning, Sunday 23d, Mr. Whidbey with his party was again dispatched to the north-west branch. This he had examined by eleven in the forenoon. He reported, that it extended N. 28 W. for five miles, and that it there terminated. He had also traced the continental shore into the branch of the inlet, under the examination of Mr. Johnstone; but as the tenor of Mr. Johnstone’s orders might induce him to pass some openings on the starboard shore, the provisions of Mr. Whidbey’s party were recruited to a supply for a week, and he was again dispatched to continue his researches along the continental shore; on which occasion Mr. Menzies, in pursuit of botanical information, accompanied Mr. Whidbey.

This forenoon some additional observations were obtained for the longitude; in the evening, the sky was again overcast, and the wind that had blown fresh from the S. E. during the day, now increased to a strong gale, attended with small rain.

The wind abated next morning, Monday the 24th, but the rain that had been very heavy during the night, still continued. The wind from the S. E. again freshened in the evening, and blew hard in squalls, with torrents of rain. During the night, the tide rose three feet perpendicularly higher than it had been observed usually to flow, and floated away some of our water casks, that had been left to all appearance in perfect security. Our seine hooks and lines having been repeatedly tried without success, rendered our situation here very unprofitable, neither the sea nor the shores afforded us the smallest refreshment, nor the least relaxation; and the weather being extremely unpleasant, without any prospect of a change, necessarily increased the labour, and retarded the progress of our boats in the examination of this inhospitable region; whose solitary and desolate appearance, though daily more familiarized to our view, did not become less irksome to our feelings.

The weather continued to be variable and unsettled until the morning of Thursday the 27th, when, it becoming fair and pleasant, some observations were procured for ascertaining the latitude, longitude, and variation.

About noon on the following day, Mr. Johnstone returned, and communicated the following particulars of his excursion.

The western branch he found to extend N. 55 W. about 12 miles, where it united with two extensive arms, one leading nearly north, the other about west. The western one continued near two leagues, where it united with two other branches more extensive than the former; one taking a southerly, the other a north-westerly direction. The first of these was pursued, and having by noon of the 23d advanced about two leagues, the latitude was observed on the larboard side to be 53° 11′, longitude 231° 3′; the variation of the compass 21° 40′, east; and high water 20′ after the moon passed the meridian. From hence, in a south direction, this southern branch reached about two leagues further, where it took a sharp turn to the W. S. W. about four miles, and there communicated with a still more extensive opening, stretching to the S. W. and N. W. The land on the western side appeared to form a large island, on which rose a conspicuous ridge of mountains, with a remarkable peak nearly in their centre, considerably above the rest; their summits were naked rocks, without the least appearance of verdure; the land to the southward was much lower, seemed greatly broken, and probably afforded several passages to sea. The wind blew strong from the south-east, attended with much rain. In the morning of the 24th, the wind abated, but the rain continued. The opening leading to the westward was pursued, until the party was overtaken by a strong gale from the S. E. attended with very heavy rain and thick misty weather. This obliged them to seek shelter round a low point of land on the western shore, forming the north point of the apparent large island, in a small cove; which, though screening them from the violence of the wind and sea, admitted of very indifferent communication with the shore, being chiefly composed of steep rocky precipices. The wet and comfortless situation of the party, however, made it indispensibly necessary that some place should be sought where the advantage of a fire might be had; and having ascended the top of a bare rock, some distance above high water mark, it was fixed upon for their night’s abode, where they remained in the most uncomfortable manner, until by the unusual flow of the tide, produced by the increased violence of the storm, they were dislodged from this resting place, and obliged to retire to such shelter as the less inhospitable woods afforded. Here their hours passed with the most anxious concern till the return of day, lest their boats should have been driven out of the cove; happily this did not prove to be the case; but a continuation of the same inclement weather detained them until the 26th, when, it becoming rather more moderate, they had for the first time a tolerably distinct view of their situation. This was in a spacious channel about two miles in width, stretching in a westerly direction, which they followed about a league, when it opened to their view another still more extensive, taking a north-west and south-east course, and bounded by land near two leagues distant; this Mr. Johnstone concluded to be Banks’s island, so named by some of the traders; and under that impression a passage to the ocean was deemed certain of being found by that route, for which reason, after Mr. Johnstone had observed the latitude on the south-west point of the westerly channel, off which lie an islet and some rocks about a mile from the shore, to be in 53° 10′, and its longitude 230° 41′, he commenced his return to the ship.

Mr. Johnstone had little doubt that the land, forming the west side of the channel that led him to the southward as he proceeded to his last station, and the east side of that which led him to the north-westward, was an island; and if his conjectures were right, a more direct passage to the vessels would necessarily be found, by which they might proceed to sea. These ideas proved in the sequel to be correct, and the island was found to be five leagues long in a north and south direction, and five miles in breadth; of a moderate though uneven height, composed chiefly of rocky materials, covered with pine trees of inferior growth, and having to the north and north-west of it much broken and divided land. About noon on the 20th the weather again became rainy and boisterous; this continued until noon the next day, when they arrived at the north point of the above island, and observed its latitude to be 53° 18′, longitude 230° 53½′. From hence, with fair pleasant weather, they made the best of their way towards the ships, where they arrived as before stated. The country that had fallen under their observation, differed little from the general character of the surrounding region. That on the sea coast was somewhat less mountainous, chiefly covered with wood, and less encumbered with snow than the barren rugged summits of the mountains of the interior country.

Those parts that had lately occupied Mr. Johnstone’s attention, appeared to be the same that had been visited by Mr. Duncan, and called Nepean’s sound; Sen^r Caamano had also resorted thither the preceding year, and had named the island which Mr. Johnstone circumnavigated, Isle de Gil. These names I accordingly adopted.

As this report rendered our stay here no longer necessary, I determined to proceed immediately to the western arm, where, on the continental shore, Mr. Johnstone had observed a bay that appeared likely to afford good anchorage, and which was so situated that Mr. Whidbey on his return must necessarily perceive the ships; in the event, however, of his passing that station in the night, or in thick weather, I left a letter, sealed up, in a bottle, in a situation that had been agreed upon between us before his departure, containing such information and directions as should be necessary for his government.

By the time our brewing utensils and other matters were brought from the shore, the wind blew a strong gale from the S. E. attended with heavy squalls and thick rainy weather. This continued until the morning of Saturday the 29th; when, about ten in the forenoon, with the assistance of the tide, we towed out of the cove, and, a light breeze springing up from the eastward, we sailed up the western arm. Whilst we had remained at anchor, only two small canoes, with three persons in each, had visited us; one on the preceding Sunday, bringing nothing to dispose of, the other just before our departure, which brought three sea otter skins and a few salmon, that were exchanged principally with iron.

In this dreary and uninteresting place nothing July 1793 further attracted our attention. The astronomical and nautical observations made there were very satisfactory, and by the former the cove was found to be situated in latitude 53° 10′, longitude 231° 26′. The variation of the compass, by sixteen sets of azimuths taken on shore, shewing from 19° to 24°, gave a mean result of 21° 37′ eastwardly; and, independently of the influence that the stormy weather seemed to have upon the tide, at the springs, the day tide rose fifteen feet three inches, the night tide about six inches higher, and was high water 10^h 15′ after the moon passed the meridian.

By seven in the evening we had advanced from the anchorage we had quitted only five miles up the western arm; it was about a mile in width, and the steepness of its rocky sides afforded little prospect of obtaining any anchorage on which we could depend for the night. We had repeatedly traversed from shore to shore without finding bottom with 165 and 185 fathoms of line, though within half the ship’s length of the rocks. The tide now making against us, we were constrained to rest our sides against the rocks, and by hawsers fastened to the trees to prevent our being driven back. Our present resting place was perfectly safe, but this is not the case against every part of these rocky precipices, as they are frequently found to jet out a few yards, at or a little beneath low water mark; and if a vessel should ground on any of those projecting parts about high water, she would, on the falling tide, if heeling from the shore, be in a very dangerous situation.

The weather was foggy for some hours the next morning, Sunday the 30th, and was afterwards succeeded by a calm; this, in addition to an unfavorable tide, detained us against the rocks until about noon, when a breeze from the westward enabled us to make sail, though with little effect. In the afternoon the breeze again died away; but with the assistance of our boats, and an eddy tide within about fifty yards of the rocks, we advanced by slow degrees to the westward, and found soundings from forty-five to sixty fathoms, hard rocky bottom, about half a cable’s length from the shore; but at a greater distance no ground could be gained. In this tedious navigation, sometimes brushing our sides against the rocks, at others just keeping clear of the trees that overhung them, we had advanced at midnight about four miles; and having at that time, bottom at the depth of forty-five fathoms, about forty yards from the shore, we let go the anchor; but such was the projecting declivity of the rocks on which the anchor at first rested, that it almost instantly slipped off into sixty fathoms. By this time however a hawser was made fast to the trees, and being hauled tight, it prevented, the anchor slipping lower down, and just answered the purpose of keeping us from the projecting rocks of the shore.

About eight in the morning of Monday the 1st of July, with the tide then seemingly in our favor, and a moderate westerly breeze, we made some progress, and by two in the afternoon we arrived at the place where I purposed to wait Mr. Whidbey’s return. It was a commodious cove; the south point of it was formed by a rocky clump covered with trees, which became an island at high water. There a note was found from Mr. Whidbey, stating that he had quitted this station at seven in the evening on the same day he had left the ship; a distance that had taken us now three days to gain. We anchored in forty-six fathoms, sandy bottom, and moored with a hawser to the rocky clump, which was our nearest shore, at the distance of a cable and an half. This little bay is formed by a stony beach, through which a considerable run of water falls into the sea; this flattered us with the hope of taking a few fish, but the seine was worked to no other purpose than that of tearing it to pieces; nor were we more successful with our hooks and lines. The shores however afforded us some raspberries, with black and red berries, and the labradore tea; these were all gathered at some little distance in the woods.

On Tuesday the 2d at noon, I observed the latitude to be 53° 18′, longitude 231° 14′. The cutter and launch were then seen approaching the ships, by the channel Mr. Johnstone had pursued towards the ocean; and on their arrival on board, Mr. Whidbey communicated to me the following account of his expedition.

From this station he continued on the eastern shore, which took nearly a north direction. A small inlet was examined extending easterly about half a league, whose north point of entrance lies north from this place, about a league distant; there the party rested for the night in a very uncomfortable situation, owing to the extremely bad weather, and the rugged rocky shore, that scarcely afforded them a sufficient horizontal space to land and remain upon. The next morning (June 24th) as they were preparing to proceed, a smoke was discovered issuing from amongst the stones on the shore, that, at low tide, formed a kind of beach. On examination, a run of hot water was found passing amongst the stones, which at high tide must be at least six feet beneath the surface of the sea. They were not able to discover its source, and having no thermometer, its degree of heat could not be ascertained. Some of the seamen attempted to wash their hands in it, but found the heat inconvenient. It had a saltish taste, and Mr. Whidbey was of opinion, that the rapidity with which it flowed could scarcely permit of its receiving this savour from the sea water. Its colour and taste were thought to resemble much the waters at Cheltenham.

From hence Mr. Whidbey continued his route along the continental shore. This took a north-westerly direction to a point in latitude 53° 32′, longitude 231° 5′; in their way to this station, about two leagues to the south-east of it, a small branch was examined. It was about a mile in width; its first direction was N. 30 E. for about a league, and then S. 68 E. about two miles further, where it terminated in a round bason, having near its centre a small island on the southern shore. Both sides were composed of perpendicular cliffs covered with pine trees. The breadth of the channel they had thus pursued was in general about half a league, until they approached this point, where it decreased to about half that width. The western shore was found to be nearly straight and compact, until the party were abreast of this point; there it formed a deep bay, whose shores appeared to be a little broken at the bottom. From this point the inlet taking an easterly direction widened to about half a league, and the continental shore first took a direction N. 75 E. about four miles, where it left but a narrow neck of land between it and the north side of the above-mentioned small branch. From thence it extended N. 50 E. about four miles further, to a point where the width of the inlet increased to about three miles and an half, and it divided into two branches; the principal one, or continuation of the former branch, stretched about N. by W.; the other S. E. by E., about a mile wide. This station they gained about breakfast time on the 25th, after passing a very uncomfortable night in consequence of the tide having flowed into their tents at the bottom, whilst a heavy torrent of rain was falling over their heads.

This point was named by Mr. Whidbey Point Staniforth, and is situated in latitude 53° 34′, longitude 231° 17′.The shores they had passed were in part composed of lofty steep mountains, that rose nearly perpendicularly from the sea, and were covered from the water side to their summits with pines and forest trees. The other parts, equally well wooded, were less elevated, and terminated in sandy beaches with projecting points, forming several small bays and coves; and before they reached that part of the inlet which took an easterly direction, Mr. Whidbey observed more drift wood than he had seen on any other part of the coast. After breakfast the party entered the south-easterly branch, and found its shores composed of mountains that were barren towards their summits, but well wooded near the water side. As they advanced, its width increased to about half a league; and in a direction S. 60 E. three miles and an half from point Staniforth, an island lies nearly in mid-channel, where they stopped to dine. At the entrance into this arm a tide was found in their favor, and not being more than half flood by the shore, Mr. Whidbey was flattered with the prospect of carrying the flood tide some distance; it however shortly turned, with a breeze, down the arm, and they were six hours advancing about four miles. They quitted their dinner station, leaving unexamined a small arm extending from the southern shore, and pursued the main branch, taking a direction from the islands S. 55 E. This was traced along the southern shore ten miles, until they arrived at a place that had the appearance of being a small bay; here they stopped for the night, after having advanced through a very desolate country, whose inhospitable shores were formed by such steep barren rocky precipices, as rendered the landing very difficult. A very few trees were thinly dispersed, of a slender dwarf kind, produced upon the naked rock.

The cutter having been very leaky during the afternoon, was instantly cleared and hauled up, when one of her planks under the larboard bow was discovered to have been stove in by some means, of which no one could form any conjecture. A piece of lead was nailed over the injured part, and the boat was again made tight.

At day-light on the 26th, their situation was discovered, instead of being in a small bay as had been supposed, to be a little way within the entrance of a small rivulet, about a cable’s length wide, admitting, for about a fourth part of that extent, a passage of five fathoms water. It took a winding course to the S. W. between two mountains; the tide of flood ran strongly up, and the ebb returned with such impetuosity, that the boats could not make the least way against the current.

As many sunken rocks were lying across its entrance, Mr. Whidbey did not think it an object worth the risk of any further examination; and for that reason he proceeded immediately up the arm, taking an irregular direction, first about N. 50 E., for eight miles, and then about S. 55 E., twenty-two miles; where, as usual, it terminated in shoal water, before a border of low land, through which flowed several small streams or rivulets of fresh water. The latitude appeared to be 53° 20′, longitude 232° 17′; it was high water by the shore 36′ after the moon passed the meridian, and the rise and fall of the tide was about fourteen feet.

On the morning of the 27th they returned down this arm, which, after Sir Alan Gardner, I called Gardner’s Channel. On this occasion Mr. Whidbey observed, that the face of the country through which they had passed from the little rapid rivulet, was almost an intirely barren waste, nearly destitute of wood and verdure, and presenting to the eye one rude mass of almost naked rocks, rising into rugged mountains, more lofty than any he had before seen, whose towering summits seeming to overhang their bases, gave them a tremendous appearance. The whole was covered with perpetual ice and snow, that reached, in the gullies formed between the mountains, close down to the high water mark; and many water-falls of various dimensions were seen to descend in every direction.

By the morning of the 28th, they had reached the small arm on the southern shore, that had been passed unexamined on the afternoon of the 25th. This they now found extending S. 35 E. nine miles from point Staniforth, where it terminated as usual. From thence the party proceeded about seven miles up what appeared to be the main branch of the inlet, where they rested for the night, on the eastern shore, opposite to an island lying nearly in mid-channel. This station lies from point Staniforth N. 10 W. eight miles. The shores of the continent, from the south-eastern arm, were nearly straight and compact. Here they were visited by eight Indians in two canoes, the first that they had seen during this expedition. The natives behaved in a very civil and friendly manner, and presented the party with two fine salmon, each weighing about 70 pounds; these were the finest and largest that had been seen during our voyage, and the Indians, after being recompenced with a small piece of iron, departed very well pleased with the exchange.

The weather was calm, with heavy rain in the morning of the 29th, and so it continued all the day; notwithstanding this Mr. Whidbey resumed his examination in the afternoon, along the eastern or continental shore. From their place of rest it took a north direction for nine miles, to a projecting point that obtained the name of Point Hopkins, forming within those limits a deep bend, in which were many sandy bays. The shores here were moderately elevated and well covered with wood. Two openings to the south of this point were passed on the opposite shore. From hence the main inlet appeared to divide into two branches, one taking a north-easterly, the other a north-westerly direction. The former, as being a continuation of the continent, was first attended to, and was found to extend N. 37 E. seven miles to the south point of a small branch about half a mile wide. The eastern shore here formed a large sandy bay, and to the westward some rocky islets, and an island about four miles long were passed. Here they were met by the same Indians who had furnished them with the two salmon, and who attended the party up the above-mentioned small branch. This, from its south point of entrance, took a direction S. 78 E. seven miles, where it terminated as usual by shoal water in latitude 53° 54½′, longitude 231° 30′. They stopped here to dine, and were visited by ten canoes, containing about sixty Indians; the largest of these, in which was the chief and his family, had its head and stern curiously decorated with carved work, and rude and uncouth figures in painting, resembling those with which they adorn their houses. The skins of the sea otter and some land animals they readily disposed of, for copper, blue cloth, and blankets, but the former seemed highest in their estimation. They all behaved very civilly and honestly, and were very compliant in doing whatever they were desired. Mr. Whidbey permitted the chief to sit with him at dinner; which he considered as a great indulgence, and conducted himself very well. He drank some grog, and appeared to be very fond of bread and sugar; he preferred the latter, and seemed greatly astonished at the taste of it; he gave some to several of his attendants, who seemed to be equally surprized. After dinner Mr. Whidbey returned down this branch, accompanied by the chief and his whole party, who every now and then sung songs, by no means unmelodious or unpleasing. The party reached the entrance in the evening, where they stopped for the night in a small cove within a bay. On making signs to the Indians that they were going to rest, all these immediately retired to another cove, at a little distance, where they remained perfectly quiet; and at four the next morning (the 30th) they accompanied them again in their researches up the main branch of the inlet. From hence it was about two miles wide, and took nearly a north direction nine miles, to the latitude of 54° 4′, longitude 231° 19′, where it was terminated by a border of low land; whence extended a shallow flat from side to side, through which a small rivulet discharged itself at its eastern corner, navigable for canoes only. This termination differed in some respect from many of the others; its shores were not very abrupt, but were bounded on each side by a range of lofty mountains, which, however, were not (as had been constantly the case) connected at the head of the arm, but continued seemingly in a direction parallel to each other. The valley between them, which was three or four miles wide, formed nearly a plain, and was covered with tall forest trees, mostly of the pine tribe. This plain was supposed by Mr. Whidbey to extend some leagues, to where the distant mountains appeared to connect the two ranges. Our party made a late breakfast near the entrance of the rivulet, where they found the remains of an Indian village. On their moving from thence, their Indian attendants took their leave, went up the rivulet in their canoes, and were seen no more. Contrary winds, though the weather was now pleasant, retarded their progress so much, that by nine at night they had not reached more than eleven miles in a direction S. 20 W. from the head of the inlet. Here they stopped for the night on the western shore, close to a very large water-fall, about ten feet above high water mark, that had its source in a lake of fresh water which appeared to be deep, lying in a north-west direction.

About three in the morning of the first of July, the party proceeded down the western shore, and soon arrived at the western division of the main inlet, mentioned on the 29th of June to have been seen from point Hopkins. This, which took a direction S. 35 W., was about a mile wide; its western shore being still a continuation of the continent, its eastern having the appearance of being an island, or a group of islands; so that little doubt was entertained of finding a passage by that route, instead of returning by the way they had come. For this reason Mr. Whidbey did not hesitate to proceed down the arm, and having advanced about five miles along the continental shore, he came to a point in latitude 53° 50′, longitude 231° 8½′, which he named Point Ashton. Here another branch extended from that they were pursuing to the northward, and, at a little distance, appeared again to divide into two arms, to the north and the north-west.

By this time their provisions were nearly exhausted; and as there was no certainty of gaining a passage to the ship by this route, Mr. Whidbey deemed it most prudent to quit the further examination of the continental shore, and to make the best of his way towards the vessels. At point Ashton they breakfasted, and by the shore found it high water there 13′ after the moon passed the meridian. From this point in a southerly direction were several rocky islets, and two small islands. After breakfast they made considerable progress, and found the arm take a direction S. 30 W., 14 miles to a point on the east shore. About half way from point Ashton, they passed on that shore by an opening, stretching to the north-east, and communicating most probably with one of those they had passed on the opposite side of the land, extending to the westward. From this last station the channel ran nearly south; and by ten in the forenoon of the 2d of July, their former opinion was confirmed, by their arriving at the south-west extremity of the land, which in their way up to point Hopkins, had formed their western, and on their return from point Ashton, their eastern shore. This, which I called Point Cumming, is situated in latitude 53° 18½′, longitude 230° 58′, from hence the islet, on which Mr. Whidbey had left a note the 23d of June, was seen lying nearly east, at the distance of about nine miles. Thus his conjectures were proved to have been well founded, and that the intervening land composed an extensive island about thirty-three miles in length, and from three to eleven miles in breadth.

This island, after that noble and indefatigable promoter of the British commerce, Lord Hawkesbury,^[1] I named Hawkesbury’s Island. From point Cumming the party returned to the ships as already related.

Our distance from the place where Mr. Whidbey had quitted the examination of the continental shore being at least 15 leagues, and the probability there was, that the branches he had left unexamined, on the western shore, were only small arms, induced me not to proceed in the vessels so far in such a tedious and disagreeable navigation, but to take a situation somewhere in the neighbourhood of the north-west part of Mr. Johnstone’s researches; where the vessels would be conveniently stationed for proceeding in the inland navigation, should this be found advisable, or for pursuing the route Mr. Johnstone had explored leading towards the ocean.

With a favorable breeze we steered to the westward, but we had no sooner entered the channel by which the boats had returned, which was about half a league in width, and communicated with Nepean’s sound, than the favorable breeze died away, and it was succeeded by light baffling winds in the contrary direction. As we at first advanced in this channel, soundings were gained from 40 to 45 fathoms, at the distance of near two cables’ length on each side; but, the ebb tide being in our favor, and we being also in hopes of finding soundings as we proceeded, I was not induced to anchor until the flood should return; at which time, the wind intirely dying away, and we being in the middle of the channel, it was not until midnight, though with the assistance of all our boats a-head towing, that we arrived in 60 fathoms water, about half a cable’s length from the southern shore, and four miles and an half from our late anchorage. The bottom did not appear by the lead to be rocky. The anchor, however, in the morning of Wednesday the 3d, slipped off the bank, and the ship was adrift; it was immediately hove up, and with light variable winds attended with much rain, we attempted to advance until two in the afternoon; when finding we lost ground, we came to an anchor on the southern shore, about half a mile to the eastward of the place we had left in the morning, in 40 fathoms water; but before a hawser could be made fast to the shore, the anchor again slipped into 60 fathoms: this precaution however prevented our being again adrift, or the anchor from slipping into deeper water.

Such being the unavoidable and tedious delays attendant on moving the vessels, I dispatched Mr. Whidbey in the large cutter, attended by Mr. Barrie in the small one, to prosecute the inland navigation; appointing a rendezvous not likely to be mistaken, whither we should proceed by such advances as were in our power. But, in case this service should be early completed, and he himself returned before the arrival of the vessels at the appointed place, which was that where Mr. Johnstone’s investigation was intended to commence, he was then to proceed in that route, leaving, in a situation easily to be discovered, due information of his proceedings; by which means any further examination in that quarter would become intirely unnecessary. With these directions, and ten days’ provisions, he departed about noon.

We remained in this situation until about half past ten in the forenoon of Thursday the 4th, when a moderate breeze springing up from the south-westward, we made sail to windward. Our progress was so slow, that at seven in the evening we had only reached point Cumming; and we had no sooner rounded this point, than the wind, that had been against us the whole day, and would now have been favorable, instantly shifted to the very point for which, on entering Nepean’s sound, we had wanted to steer, in order to reach our rendezvous now at the distance of about four miles. This disappointment compelled us, at ten o’clock, to anchor, and make fast to the trees, two miles to the northward of the above point, in fifty fathoms water; the bottom sand and stones, about half a cable’s length from the eastern shore. In the morning, the appointed rendezvous for meeting Mr. Whidbey’s party not having been visited by any of our boats, I ordered the master of the Chatham to go thither, and to ascertain the best anchorage for the vessels. About ten o’clock a light breeze from the N. W. springing up, we made sail to windward in order to follow him.

On heaving up the best bower anchor, to our great surprize and mortification, we found it broken. The palm, with half the arm of the anchor, was broken off. It had evidently struck slantingly against a rock, as the mark of the rock still remained on the broken part of the anchor; and as there was not the least strain in weighing it, there is little doubt that its own weight broke it in the act of falling. The anchor appeared to have been composed of very bad materials, and to have been very ill wrought; it had broken quite short off, and had it not been for the shape of the bars, that remained in its inside in their original state, the texture of the metal would rather have induced the belief of its being cast, than wrought, iron.

Such were the anchors with which we were supplied for executing this tedious, arduous, and hazardous service. Happily, neither on this, nor on the former similar occasion, about this time in the preceding year, were we exposed to any immediate danger, otherwise the chances of our escaping would have been much against us. A loss of confidence in the stability of these our last resources, must always be attended with the most painful reflections that can occur in a maritime life. From our unfortunate experience, little dependence could be placed in future on the services of our anchors, should we be driven to the cruel necessity of resorting to them as a last resource.

On Mr. Manby’s return, he reported, that although the neighbourhood of the spot he had been sent to examine afforded anchorage, yet it was very much exposed, and the soundings gained were off a small sandy beach, that extended but a lityle way in any direction. On more minutely noticing the western shore of this inlet, being the east side of the isle de Gil, I saw a situation that promised to answer our present purpose, having now to break out the main hold for another anchor. I sent a boat to sound it, and on receiving a favorable report, about three o’clock we anchored in forty fathoms; stones, shells, and sandy bottom; mooring with a hawser to the shore. The bay is situated on the north-east part of the island, about two miles from its northern extremity. Its outer points bearing by compass from N. W. to S. E. by E., our distance about a cable’s length from the shore.

My intentions now were, that the Chatham should proceed to, and remain at, the rendezvous, for the information of the boats; and that the Discovery should continue at this more eligible station for the service we had to perform. But on observing the Chatham haul her wind, instead of anchoring at the place appointed, I concluded the anchorage was not found very desirable; the signal was therefore made for them to join us, which was accordingly done about five in the evening. We immediately sat about replacing the anchors; this was accomplished, and the hold restowed by noon the next day, Saturday the 6th.

The Chatham’s launch requiring some repairs, detained Mr. Johnstone and his party until four o’clock on Sunday morning, when, with supplies for a week, he departed, in order to resume his examination of the coast towards the ocean; with directions to call at the place appointed for Mr. Whidbey’s rendezvous, bearing by compass N. 27 W. distant three miles, and there to leave information of his departure, and of the station the vessels had taken. About nine Mr. Johnstone returned, having found a note from Mr. Whidbey, which stated, that the openings he had pursued to the northward in the inland navigation, had been all found to terminate in the usual way; that he had quitted the rendezvous the preceding day at noon, whither he had then traced the continental shore, and had departed with the view of continuing its further examination up an arm leading to the north-west. Mr. Johnstone left the directions according to his orders, and returned on board, as this intelligence of Mr. Whidbey’s proceedings had rendered his expedition unnecessary. On his arrival he pointed out a situation round the north point of this island, which appeared to him more eligible for waiting the return of the boats than the station we had taken; but as this afforded an abundance of berries and of the labradore tea, I was induced to remain here another day, that our people might have the advantage of a ramble into the woods, and of partaking of those excellent refreshments.

As the wind blew from the northward directly into the bay, attended with thick misty weather, we remained quiet until Tuesday the 9th, when we proceeded to the station pointed out by Mr. Johnstone. On anchoring, the best bower was in thirty-three, the small bower in forty-three fathoms, about a quarter of a mile from the shore; the bottom dark sand and mud. Our situation was directly to the south-westward of the north point of the isle de Gil, whose shores bore by compass from S. by E. to N. E. by E.; the nearest opposite shore west, about half a league distant; the arm under Mr. Whidbey’s examination north-west, distant two miles; and the appointed rendezvous distant about a league.

The next morning, Wednesday the 10th, the seine was hauled, and a good meal of fish procured for all hands; an abundance of berries were produced on the adjacent shores, and a sufficient quantity of fish caught to supply our wants during our stay, which continued without any particular occurrence until Sunday the 14th. About seven in the morning the boats returned, after having pursued the examination of the continental shore, through an arm whose entrance, two miles from this station, was in a direction N. 30 W.; in which its boundaries were traced to the latitude of 54° 24′, longitude 229° 42′, and considered to be there the eastern part of Chatham’s sound, so named by some former visitors. From thence the continental shore, which took a northerly direction, appeared to be compact, and formed the eastern side of a very spacious and extensive opening, lying in the same direction with the continent from two to three leagues in width, and nearly unlimited in its northern direction. The continental shore was composed of a range of lofty mountains covered with snow; but the western side of the sound was divided into large and small islands, through which Mr. Whidbey saw two channels communicating with the ocean. By one of these he intended to have returned, but the strong southerly winds that prevailed induced him to return by the inland navigation. The following is an account of this excursion.

By noon of the 4th the party reached point Ashton, where Mr. Whidbey on his former expedition had quitted the examination of the continental shore. Having dined they proceeded round this point along the continent, up the northern branch then left unexplored; and found it, as it had appeared to be, divided into two small arms, the first scarcely half a mile wide, taking a direction N. 18 E., about four miles, where it terminated in low land, rising gradually to a moderate height within the country. The east side of the arm bore a similar appearance, indented with several sandy bays; but the western side was high, steep, and rocky. The other branch of this opening, extending from point Ashton N. 10 W., was about the same width; with an island situated nearly in its middle, and some sunken rocks on its eastern shore. This branch terminated by low swampy land, surrounded on every side by high mountains, with deep gullies between them where the snow had lodged, and in some places remained frozen, though not more than twenty feet above the level of the sea. Each side of the arm was well wooded, but composed of steep rocky shores. Having thus satisfied themselves the party returned, and rested for the night in a small cove on the continental shore, three miles to the southward of point Ashton. From hence the continental shore first took a direction S. 31 W. fifteen miles; here it formed a small cove, in which is a fresh water brook; from thence it extended nearly south, twelve miles; and having examined in their way a small bay about a mile wide, and half a league deep, they entered a narrow opening that first took nearly a south-west direction about a league, and then S. 15 E., about three miles and a half further; where it again communicated with the main channel, making the eastern shore a small island about a league and a half long, whose south end was the appointed rendezvous. In this neighbourhood Mr. Whidbey expected to have found the vessels; but being disappointed, he left the note as before mentioned, and prosecuted the examination of the continent up the arm already pointed out, which they entered about noon. During their morning’s excursion they were visited by seven canoes, in which were about thirty of the natives, most of whom Mr. Whidbey described to be little old men; there were few young men amongst them, and no women nor children. They brought a very inferior assortment of sea otter skins to dispose of, and their general appearance indicated them to be a very poor tribe; they stayed with our party about an hour, and conducted themselves in a very orderly manner.

At the south-east point of entrance into this arm, which lies west about two miles from the rendezvous point, and for two miles within, the sea abounded with sea otters. These, in the most sportive manner, played about the boats, rearing themselves half way out of the water, and holding up their young ones in their fore paws, as if to view the boats as they passed. The arm at this place was not more than half a mile wide, with straight and compact shores on each side; they found its direction N. 40 W., until they had advanced about twenty-four miles from the entrance, when they arrived at a small harbour, or rather cove, on the eastern shore, where they passed a very rainy and uncomfortable night.

At day-light, in the morning of the 7th, some rocks were found near the head of this cove, which was bounded by a sandy beach, having a lagoon of water behind it. Off its north-west point was an island, from whence the arm was found to continue the same width and direction about four miles further. It then stretched N. 27 W. about eight miles to the south point of an opening on the western or continental shore, about a mile wide; its opposite point of entrance lying north. At this point the width of the main arm increased to half a league. Off the south point lie many rocks, both above and beneath the surface of the water. The shores, along which they had thus navigated from the entrance of the arm, were mountainous on the east or continental side, but, on the opposite side, low and rocky; both produced pine trees, and were interspersed with bare and naked patches. From this point the opening was found to take a course first S. 37 E. for four miles, where it ended in a sandy bay, in which were some sunken rocks; from thence it extended N. 9 W., six miles, where it finally terminated in the usual manner, with some rocky islets, and sunken rocks, about half way up. Immediately within its north point of entrance lies a small island, behind which is a deep sandy cove. From this northern point the eastern shore took a direction N. 45 W., three miles and an half, to a small cove, where they rested for the night, which, as well as the day, was very rainy and unpleasant.

Although the rain still continued, the party again proceeded at four the next morning along the continental shore, N. 31 W. ten miles to the south point of a bay, about a mile wide, and two miles deep, in a north-east direction, with many islets and several sunken rocks about it. Here they were detained by thick foggy weather until near noon, when it cleared up, and permitted Mr. Whidbey to observe the latitude of the above point to be 53° 53′, its longitude 230° 12½′. Having examined the bay, they proceeded, and found the east shore to take a rounding direction westerly to a cove, lying from the above bay N. 23 W. distant about nine miles. Here they rested for the night, which, like the former, was very wet and uncomfortable.

In their way hither the continental shore was found to be lined with innumerable rocky islets and rocks, above and below the surface of the sea; nor was the middle of the channel free from these obstructions, where was also a cluster of islands; and behind them an extensive opening on the opposite shore ran to the S. S. W. appearing to divide the land. To the north-west of that opening the south-west shore still continued N. 35 W. from whence the main arm increased its width to near half a league, and formed a channel leading to the north-westward, with land lying between it and the continental shore. This last now took a direction N. 5 W. and formed a channel with the eastern shore of the above intermediate land, from two to three miles wide. The south point of this land bore from hence N. 69 W. distant three miles. In the morning of the 9th, they bent their way up this channel, passing along the continent, and found the shores composed of steep rocky cliffs, difficult to land upon, though but moderately elevated; their lower parts being well wooded, but towards their summits rugged and barren; here also they met with immense numbers of sea otters playing about the boats, which were frequently fired at, but without effect.

Soon after they had left the cove, they found themselves opposed by a very rapid stream, against which the boats could scarcely make any way; it was remarked, that no part of this stream seemed to enter the passage which the boats had pursued, but was wholly directed towards the above S. S. W. opening, that appeared to divide the south-western shore, and left little doubt of that passage communicating with the ocean, as the current was evidently the ebb tide.

Having advanced seven miles along the main land in the above direction, they arrived at a point from which the intermediate land before mentioned was clearly perceived to be a high island, about seven miles long; its north point lying N. 77 W. at the distance of three miles and a half. This formed the south-west point of a passage communicating with a very extensive sound, in which were several islands; between these the open sea was supposed to be seen, as the horizon appeared unbounded beyond those islands. From this point also, the east point of that passage bore N. 64 W. 1½ miles distant. This proved to be the south point of a high island, where the party met with a flood tide, and found the continental shore continue in the same direction about a league, when they suddenly came into four feet water; and found themselves at the entrance of a branch leading to the north-east, about two miles wide. To gain a greater depth of water, they hauled over to its northern shore, passing many dead trees that were lodged on the bank, where no more than three to six feet water were found, until within half a mile of the northern shore, when the water suddenly deepened to seven fathoms. This bank joins on to the south point of entrance into this branch, to which I gave the name of Point Lambert, after commissioner Lambert of the navy; it is situated in latitude 54° 10½′, longitude 230° 6½′. From it the shoal forms a rounding spit, and terminates on the southern shore, about two miles within the point. They now proceeded in the direction of the branch N. 30 E. with soundings from ten to seven fathoms, for about seven miles, when they came abreast of some islands on the northern shore, lying before the entrance of a narrow opening which took a south-east direction. Having passed this, they continued in mid-channel about two miles further, when they came into two fathoms water. Here Mr. Whidbey remained till high water, which was 1^h 45′ after the moon passed the meridian, and then dispatched Mr. Barrie to the northern shore, whilst he sounded the southern side, towards the above islands, where he found no more than three fathoms water.

At one of these islands, which, from the quantity of excellent raspberries it produced, obtained the name of Raspberry Island, Mr. Barrie joined the party, and reported, that the shoal extended within a cable’s length of the north shore, where it formed a narrow channel with the main land seven fathoms deep. Under these circumstances Mr. Whidbey determined to stay at the island until low water, that a better judgment might be formed of their actual situation, since, from the rapidity and regularity of the tides, he began to suspect it to be a river.

In the evening Mr. Barrie was sent to the opening extending to the south-east, and Mr. Whidbey went to the above seven fathom channel; but found that it was too narrow to be navigated, and that it was interspersed with sand banks and sunken rocks. On his return to Raspberry island, he was met by Mr. Barrie, who made a similar report of the opening he had been sent to explore. Mr. Whidbey, however, wishing to be more fully satisfied, went himself on the morning of the 10th to the south-east opening, and found its entrance obstructed with innumerable sunken rocks, and the tide rushing down it in violent overfalls. He retired to Raspberry island for the purpose of returning to take a second view there at low water; as the night tides in this country rise in general much higher, and fall much lower than those that flow in the day. This proved to be so much the case in this instance, that they were enabled to see, at low tide, the whole space of the branch above them from side to side intirely dry, up to its very head, which was about four miles from the island they were then upon, encumbered with sunken rocks, and innumerable large round stones scattered in all directions. From its head there appeared in this point of view three small rivulets, that flowed over this shallow space, very dangerous for boats on account of the rapidity of the tide, and of the rocks and stones that could scarcely be avoided. Mr. Whidbey prudently declined wasting any more time in its further examination, and taking the advantage of the ebb tide that commenced at three in the afternoon, he returned, and directed his course towards the entrance into the extensive sound he had seen on the 9th. During their late researches in this branch, which I have called Port Essington, after Captain Essington of the navy, the flood tide was observed to run up at the rate of four, and the ebb tide down at the rate of five knots per hour; the tides regular nearly six hours each way, and the water perfectly fresh at low tide, though brackish at high water. Many sea otters were seen playing about, and diverting themselves amongst the rocks at all times of tide. The surrounding country was in general moderately elevated, particularly its north-west side, where, in several places, low land seemed to stretch to some distance; but to the northward and eastward, the view was bounded by lofty barren mountains, wrapped in perpetual frost and snow.

About five in the evening, they reached the north point of the island forming the south side of the passage into the large sound, nearly four leagues from Raspberry island. This passage, which is two miles long, and about a mile wide from island to island, was mostly occupied by shoals and overfalls, from three feet to three fathoms, contracting it to a very narrow channel close on the southern side, where the depth was fifteen and sixteen fathoms all the way through into the sound. From hence a view was gained of the spacious opening before them, from six to seven miles wide, whose width seemed to increase further to the N. W. interspersed, in most directions, with small islands, rocky islets, rocks and shoals. One extensive dry sand bank, in particular, was seen lying from this point, N. 53 W. a league distant. The south-western shore of the extensive arm they had passed through from Nepean’s sound, still continued its last-mentioned course, and formed the south-west side of the spacious sound, that has been mentioned already to have been discovered before, and named after the Earl of Chatham. From this point they steered towards some islands that lie to the south-west of the above sand bank. The soundings were irregular, from ten to three, and sometimes only two, fathoms water. At one of these islands, lying from the point they had left, N. 65 W. at the distance of four or five miles, the party rested for the night.

The next morning (July 11) as Mr. Whidbey was taking his bearings, he found the compass vary 13° from his former observations. He altered its situation, then placed it on a tree, yet the same difference appeared; from whence he was led to suspect, that some mistake had been made on the preceding day; but, on revising his former angles, he was convinced that the deviation had commenced in this, and not at any former station; proving that the component parts of this island are strongly impregnated with a magnetic quality, a circumstance that had occurred in other instances during our former investigation, but more particularly in New Georgia than in these northern regions.

From this island they steered over towards the larboard side of the sound, and soon passed the northern extremity of the land, mentioned before as forming its south-west side; the extreme point of which terminates the N. 35 W. direction of that shore, and forms a very conspicuous point, surrounded on all sides with many rocks and islets. To this point I gave the name of Point Hunt; it is situated in latitude 54° 10½′, longitude 229° 48′. From hence the shores of that land took an irregular direction S. 50 W. for seven miles, to a point which I called Point Pearce; the intermediate space is bounded by innumerable rocks and other impediments, forming at first a wide channel, with the land to the north-west of it, but decreasing at this point to about a mile. Its nearest opposite side bore N. 72 W.; to the westward of this point the channel again expanded, and the larboard shore fell back considerably, forming a deep bay, in which were several small openings running to the south-eastward. In a direction W. by S. about three miles from point Pearce, Mr. Whidbey landed on the south point of a small island, lying before the northern shore of this channel, where he observed the latitude to be 54° 5′, longitude 229° 34½′, and from whence he had a clear and distinct view of the ocean. The western point of the northern shore lying N. 58 W. and the western point of the southern or larboard shore S. 78 W. This latter, forming a very conspicuous projecting land, I named, after Mr. Ibbetson of the Admiralty, Cape Ibbetson; it is situated in latitude 54° 4′, longitude 229° 30′, having between it and the westernmost land, on the northern shore, a cluster of rocky islets; exclusively of which, the channel out to sea appeared to be without interruption, though, about the northern shore, there were several rocks and islets.

By this unequivocal view of the ocean, it was positively ascertained, that the land forming the south-west side of the extensive channel they had pursued, from Nepean’s sound to point Hunt, and from thence to cape Ibbetson, constituted either an archipelago of islands, or one island upwards of twenty leagues in length; but as I considered the former most likely to be the case, I named it after the Right Hon. William Pitt, Pitt’s Archipelago. Mr. Whidbey much wished to have returned to the ships along its southern side; but, as a strong S. E. wind prevailed, attended with a good deal of sea, against which they were not likely to make much progress in the open ocean, and their stock of provisions being reduced to a very low state, Mr. Whidbey abandoned that project in order to return by the way he came; but first went back into Chatham sound for the purpose of acquiring some farther information respecting it.

On repassing the channel just mentioned as being a mile in width, Mr. Whidbey noticed to the north-east of it, on the shores of Pitt’s archipelago, two sandy bays, that appeared likely to afford good anchorage; but having other objects in view, he did not enter them, but proceeded up the sound, where the afternoon was employed in fixing the situation of the several islands, rocks, &c. which it contained. From one of the former, lying from point Hunt N. 43 W. at the distance of eight miles, a distant view was again obtained of the ocean, making the western shore of the sound, from the passage they had left leading to sea, an island about four leagues long. To this, after Sir Philip Stephens of the Admiralty, I gave the name of Stephens’s Island. Its north point lies, from this island, N. 85 W. distant five miles; and the opposite side of this channel leading out to sea, N. 45 W. From hence they visited another cluster of islands, where the party rested for the night, and which terminated the northern extent of their excursion.

Returning on the morning of the 12th, Mr. Whidbey passed close by point Hunt, and pursued the channel observed to stretch to the north-west, on the evening of the 8th; where, towards its southern part, several sunken rocks were found in mid-channel, and in passing through the cluster of islands mentioned at the same time, they found them to be surrounded by rocks and shoal water. From hence they lost no time in making the best of their way to the ship, through the same channel by which they had advanced.

This channel, about 22 leagues long, communicating between Chatham’s and Nepean’s sounds, I named, after the Right Hon. Lord Grenville, Grenville’s Channel.

The result of this expedition left no doubt as to the measures that were to be pursued. I therefore directed that the brewing utensils and other matters should be immediately removed from the shore, and the vessels unmoored; my intention being to proceed through the channel that Mr. Johnstone had found leading towards the ocean, and from thence to continue to the north-westward, through the passage formed by Banks’s island to the south-west, and Pitt’s archipelago to the north-east. This channel had already been navigated by Sen^r Caamano, who had named it Canal del Principe, and in whose chart it is represented as fair and navigable.

Whilst our business with the shore was going forward, three canoes, in which were some of the natives, made their appearance; these, with one canoe seen some days before at a distance, in which were some people, were the only inhabitants we had noticed during our residence in Nepean’s sound. One only of these canoes ventured near us this morning; it contained four or five persons, who made their approach with the utmost diffidence and caution. They disposed of a few indifferent sea otter skins, and seemed, in a trifling degree, to differ in their persons from the people we had been accustomed to see; they were not taller, but they were stouter, their faces more round and flat, their hair coarse, straight, black, and cut short to their head; in this respect they differed from any of the tribes of North-West America with whom we had met, who, though in various fashions, universally wore their hair long, which was in general of a soft nature, and chiefly of a light or dark brown colour, seldom approaching to black.

The wind being light and variable, kept us stationary until near noon, when, seeming to be settled in the north-east quarter, we quitted our anchorage. Although the shores here formed no very great indent, I distinguished it by the name of Fisherman’s Cove, from our success in procuring fish, which in these regions were a very scarce commodity. In this cove are two considerable runs of fresh water, and wood may be easily procured in abundance. The soundings are from 15 to 40 fathoms good holding ground, where a few vessels may ride with great safety and convenience.

Whilst we remained in Fisherman’s cove, I procured observations sufficient to ascertain its situation, by which its latitude was found to be 53° 18½′, its longitude deduced from six sets of the sun’s altitude and the chronometers, 230° 53′; the variation, by three different compasses taken on shore, shewing from 20° 29′ to 22° 18′, gave the mean result of 21° 17′ eastwardly. Fisherman’s cove being situated at the extremity of an island, in the midst of this very broken region, it was impossible to ascertain with the lead regularity any thing respecting the tides, as they were so much influenced by the winds and other latent causes.

It was seven in the evening before we had passed through the northern entrance into Nepean’s sound, when the wind, which blew in very light airs, being favorable, our course was directed slowly up the Canal del Principe.

The next morning, Monday the 15th, a light breeze springing up, we stood to windward, and at noon Banks’s island extended from S. 51 E. to N. 70 W., the latter being in a line with a part of the shores of Pitt’s archipelago; so that, as yet, we had not the passage to sea open. At this time we were abreast of a small opening about N. E. by N., at the distance of a mile, apparently the same that had been named by Mr. Duncan, Port Stephens; its entrance was obstructed by many rocky islets and rocks, and it presented no very tempting appearance as a port. The easternmost land in sight, on the northern side of the channel, bore by compass S. 58 E., and the nearest shore of Banks’s island S. W. by W., about a mile distant; here the observed latitude was 53° 26½′, longitude 230° 19′.

In the afternoon, we passed the Port del Canaveral; it seemed to be extensive, and to have an entrance, free from obstruction, about a league and a half wide. Its outer points lie N. 35 W. and S. 35 E. from each other; off the latter lies a small round island, in latitude 53° 29′, longitude 230° 16′. As we made a tolerable progress in plying, we continued under sail until nine in the evening; when we anchored in 34 fathoms, within the length of three cables from the shores of Pitt’s archipelago, which consisted here of a number of small islands and rocks, lying in front of land more compact, extending westward from the north point of Port del Canaveral, and bearing by compass from N. 73 W. to E. by S.; each extreme being about two miles distant. Here we had a view of the ocean between a projecting point on the shores of Pitt’s archipelago, and the N. W. point of Banks’s island; the former bearing by compass N. 80 W., the latter N. 86 W., and the nearest opposite shore on Banks’s island S. by W., about two miles distant.

The wind prevented our sailing until 9 o’clock in the morning of Tuesday the 16th, when a patch of rocks was discovered that had not more than three fathoms water over them, about half a cable’s length from the ship’s anchorage, bearing by compass W. N. W. By eight in the evening we had reached nearly the western extent of this channel, and finding soundings near the eastern shore in 35 fathoms water, we anchored for the night. In this situation, the N. E. point of the Canal del Principe bore by compass N. 66 W., about a league distant; its N. W. point S. 72 W.; this latter is the north point of Banks’s island, and is situated in latitude 53° 39½′, longitude 229° 47′. The nearest shore E. N. E. about three cables’ length distant.

This channel, from the north point of entrance into Nepean’s sound, to the north point of Banks’s island, extends first in a direction N. 43 W., to the south point of Puerto del Canaveral, and from thence to its N. W. point N. 63 W., in all about fourteen leagues. The southern shore is nearly straight and compact, without soundings, the northern shore is much broken, bounded by many rocks and islets, and affording soundings in several places. On the south-west side the acclivity is the greatest, but both sides of the channel may be considered as elevated land, and are intirely covered with pine trees, which seemed to be produced principally from a soil of decayed vegetables in the chasms of the rocks. The shores abounded with a great number of very shy sea otters.

Light variable winds, attended by dark gloomy weather, detained us at anchor until four on the morning of Thursday the 18th, when we weighed, in company with the Chatham. We had a moderate breeze from the westward, with cloudy weather, that soon turned to drizzling rain, approaching nearly to a fog; we continued, however, to turn towards the ocean, and by eight in the evening, gained a good offing between Queen Charlotte’s islands and the north-west part of Pitt’s archipelago, where we found a good space to work in, the wind blowing N. N. W. exactly in the direction we wanted to steer. Our soundings, during the night, were between 30 and 40 fathoms muddy bottom; but in the morning of Friday the 19th, we passed over a bank of sand and shells, on which there was only from twenty-three to twenty-five fathoms; but the depth suddenly increased on each side to thirty fathoms water, muddy bottom.

The wind was now at N. N. W., blowing a fresh gale, with hazy weather, the land of Queen Charlotte’s islands was in sight, but the haze prevented our distinguishing any of its conspicuous points. At noon, the north-west point of Banks’s island bore by compass S. 83 E., the island of Bonilla S. 55 E., and the northernmost land in sight, N. 55 E. The latitude observed was 53° 46′, longitude 229° 20′.

From this station we ran five miles W. S. W. in twenty-one fathoms water, sandy and shelly bottom; this I considered to be a continuation of the bank we had crossed in the morning. The wind still remaining unfavorable, we continued to ply all night with soundings from twenty-five to fifty-three fathoms; the bottom at the latter depth black sand and mud, at the former light brown sand and shells.

The next morning, Saturday the 20th, we had again an indistinct view of Queen Charlotte’s islands; but the wind veering to the S. E., accompanied by thick misty weather, they were soon again obscured.

About noon, the wind freshened with all the appearance of an approaching gale, and rendered our situation by no means so pleasant as could have been wished. By the transient view we had had of the shores to the north of us, they appeared broken, and bounded with many rocky islets and rocks. We had now passed the north point of Stephens’s island, which bore by compass S. 84 E., at the distance of two leagues, and were abreast of the opening through which, from Chatham’s sound, Mr. Whidbey had seen the ocean; but at too great a distance to discern the innumerable rocky islets and rocks that nearly occupied the whole passage leading out. These dangers, the gloominess of the weather, and the impending gale from the S. E., combined to give this unexplored channel an appearance so forlorn, as scarcely to admit the idea of its being navigable. I was still very unwilling to abandon the prospect we now had, of speedily arriving at the station to which our boats had already traced the boundaries of the continental shore; and for this reason I directed our course towards the intricate inhospitable labyrinth, lying between us and the point I was so anxious to gain; in the hope, that amongst the numerous islets and rocks, some place of secure anchorage might be found, until the weather should become more favorable to our views. As we advanced our prospects became less flattering. The lucid intervals of the mist only exhibited our situation to be more intricate and dangerous, by discovering rocks and breakers that had not been seen before. In this painful situation of care and apprehension, I experienced no small degree of relief, by unexpectedly discovering a whale-boat rowing towards the ship; we instantly brought to, and on the officer coming on board, I learned that he belonged to the Butterworth of London, then at anchor in a very commodious place, on the eastern side of the rocky group before us, whither he very civilly offered to conduct us. We made sail immediately for the channel we had before been steering for, which was the same as that by which the Butterworth had entered the sound, between the northernmost of the above group of islets, breakers, and rocks, and a ledge of sunken rocks to the north, on which the sea broke only at intervals. We reached our promised station about six in the evening, and anchored in company with the Chatham, in thirty-six fathoms water. The Butterworth, Prince Lee Boo, and Jackall schooner, belonging to the same concern, we found riding here, under the orders of Mr. Brown, commander of the Butterworth, who saluted us with seven guns, which compliment was returned by five.

Soon after we had anchored, Mr. Brown visited the Discovery, and I believe I may venture to assert, that the satisfaction arising from meeting with our fellow countrymen in such distant regions of the globe, was very mutual on this occasion. Mr. Brown informed me, that he had spent some time in this immediate neighbourhood, and on coming out of a harbour that lies to the N. N. W. of this station, about three leagues distant, his ship had struck upon a rock that seemed to be a small pinnacle situated by itself, as no soundings were gained near it; the ship remained but a short time upon the rock before the rising of the sea disengaged her, though not without knocking off her rudder. This however was fortunately recovered, and its damages were nearly repaired.

Whilst the Butterworth had remained stationary, Mr. Brown had been employed in his small vessels in various directions, and to some extent, about this coast, particularly to the north-westward, in procuring of furs. He very obligingly communicated to me every information he had been able to obtain. The principal circumstance was that of his having sailed up a large opening, whose southern entrance was in latitude 54° 45′.

This is probably the same as that laid down in Sen^r Caamano’s chart, named Estrecho de Almirante Fuentes. Mr. Brown found it extend to the north-westward, with several arms branching from it in various directions to the latitude of 56° 20′; where, in a south-westerly direction, it again communicated with the North Pacific. He had understood, from the natives, that there was in this neighbourhood a very extensive inland navigation, communicating with a sea to the northward, that employed the inhabitants nearly three months in reaching its extent, where they traded for whale oil, sea otter skins, and other marine productions. This inland navigation Mr. Brown supposed to be in an extensive arm, lying from hence towards the N. N. E. about nine leagues distant; the entrance of which he had visited, and found it spacious and large, but had not penetrated any distance into it. At its south-east point of entrance a small branch extended to the south-eastward, up which he proceeded with his sloop and schooner about six miles, where they anchored before a village of the natives, whose improper conduct made it necessary to fire upon them from the vessels, which was attended with some slaughter.

As these openings were near the continent, some leagues to the northward of Mr. Whidbey’s late excursion, they would, it was probable, fall under our future inspection; this made me particular in my inquiries respecting those shores, about which Mr. Brown stated that there were many lurking rocks; and as it was probable that there were others that had escaped his notice, he obligingly offered me one of his small vessels to precede us, and sound the channel, and begged I would retain her as long as I should find it expedient; which very kind offer I readily accepted.

The weather became more temperate the following morning, Sunday the 21st, yet the land was so obscured by the haze, that it was late in the forenoon before we could get any tolerable view of the surrounding shores; when, the north part of Stephens’s island bore by compass S. 20 E. to S. 9 E., distant half a league; the north extreme of the rocky group N. 58 W., distant three miles, part of the ledge of rocks forming the north side of the passage by which we had entered the sound, N. 31 W. to N. 20 W., distant four miles and an half. This passage, after the commander of the Butterworth, I named Brown’s Passage. The westernmost part of the land, forming the north side of Brown’s passage, bore N. 52 W. eight miles; the easternmost point of the same land being an island, N. 9 E. seven miles; and an intermediate point of the same shore N. 37 W., distant six miles; between this land and the above ledge of rocks are other rocks, and two islets; the northernmost part of the east side of the sound in sight N. 13 E.; a group of islands from N. 35 E. to N. 40 E.; a saddle island from N. 74 E. to N. 77 E.; another group from N. 80 E. to N. 84 E.; point Hunt, S. 75 E.; distant fourteen miles; and the station to which Mr. Whidbey had traced the continental boundary, being a small projecting point with an island to the south of it, N. 28 E. eleven miles distant.

Having thus gained a very competent view of the surrounding region in all directions, Mr. Whidbey was dispatched in the large cutter, to recommence his examination of the continental shore towards the above N. N. E. opening. In this pursuit I purposed to follow him with the vessels. About eleven, in company with the Chatham, and the sloop Prince Lee Boo sounding a-head, we again departed; on this occasion the Butterworth saluted us on our arrival, which was returned in the same manner.

The anchorage we had quitted, situated in latitude 54° 18′, longitude 229° 28′, is on the eastern side of a range of innumerable rocky islets and rocks, extending from the north side of Stephens’s island N. 30 W., about a league and a half, and occupying a space of about two miles in width. To the westward of this group, at the distance of two or three miles, lies a low detached rock with some breakers near it; there are other lurking rocks, lying about the same distance from the west side of Stephens’s island.

As the day advanced the weather became serene and pleasant; and as the wind was favorable, we made a very good progress along the eastern shores of the sound. These were low, and somewhat indented with small bays, but were bounded by a reef of rocks at the distance of a quarter of a mile from the shore. The more interior country was composed of a lofty range of mountains covered with perpetual snow. These, as well as the islands of the sound, produced a great number of pine trees, though apparently of no great size. In the evening we passed two clusters of low rocks, with some breakers about them to the west of us, as also the north point of the island forming the west side of Chatham’s sound to the northward of Brown’s passage. This island, in a direction N. 20 W., is fifteen miles long, and five miles broad from east to west. To this island I gave the name of Dundas’s Island, after the Right Honourable Henry Dundas.

To the north of this island we had a distinct view of the ocean to the westward, through a spacious channel that appeared free from interruption; and by sun-set we entered the arm, up which we expected to find this extensive inland navigation. To its south-east point of entrance I gave the name of Point Maskelyne, after the astronomer royal; it is situated in latitude 54° 42½′, and longitude 229° 45′, and off it lie two rocky islets, and to the south of it a small island close to the shore.

The apparent extent of this inlet did not answer my expectations, from the description that had been given of it. Its entrance is not more than two miles and a half across, and this, at the distance of a few miles, seemed to be materially contracted. If this be the same branch described by the natives, which is much to be questioned, especially as some of Mr. Brown’s gentlemen considered the opening meant by those people to be further to the westward, it is called by them Ewen Nass. The word Ewen we understood to signify great, or powerful; as, Ewen Smoket, a great chief; but the word Nass was completely unknown to Mr. Brown, and all of his party.

The divided country we had now examined, from the forty-seventh degree of north latitude to this station, and the information derived from Mr. Brown, rendered it highly probable that the continental shore still continued to have extensive islands lying between it and the ocean, to a very considerable distance further north.

The length of time which, as Mr. Brown understood, occupied these people in making so distant a journey, may be accounted for by their tardy mode of travelling through each others dominions, or in passing through the various windings and crooked shallow channels, many of which, though sufficient for their canoes, were very probably unfit for the navigation of shipping. I have ever found it extremely hard, almost impossible, indeed, to make the inhabitants of these remote parts, and even the Sandwich islanders, with whose language we are much better acquainted, comprehend the kind of passage that is required for ships to pass through, or the kind of port or opening in the land that is capable of affording them safe and convenient shelter. In addition to which difficulty selfish or sinister views too frequently regulate them, in the information they communicate. Be this as it may, it was our business now to determine the question, and embracing the favorable opportunity of a fair wind, we steered up the inlet, and were joined by Mr. Whidbey in the cutter, who had traced the continental shore to point Maskelyne; where, on its becoming broken, he had desisted from any further examination until a future opportunity.

From point Maskelyne, the two clusters of low rocks and breakers before noticed, lie, the northernmost S. 28 W. eight miles, and the southernmost S. 33 W. distant ten miles and a half; these, in the day time, and in clear weather, are easily avoided, as there are always some of them above the surface of the water; but in dark nights, or foggy weather, they must render the navigation of the sound very dangerous. After passing between the northern cluster of these rocks, and the continental shore, with which they form a channel about a mile in width, we had about that distance from the main land, soundings at the depth of 45, 55, 30, 19, 12, and 8 fathoms, soft bottom; the latter about half a mile from point Maskelyne. No bottom was however gained, after passing that point with 60 and 70 fathoms of line, until ten at night, when the Prince Lee Boo having reached the contracted part of the inlet, made the signal for having soundings and anchorage. We arrived at this station about eleven, and anchored in 35 fathoms water, soft bottom, after passing two openings on the eastern shore, besides that immediately round point Maskelyne, where Mr. Brown had had his dispute with the natives.

We found our station the next morning, Monday the 22d, to be off the north-west part of an island lying near the eastern shore, and further up the inlet than those in the sloop had yet been; no information from them could therefore be any longer of use, though a continuation of their services would have been very acceptable. This made me regret, that we had not one or two vessels of thirty or forty tons burthen, calculated as well for rowing as for sailing, to assist us in this intricate investigation, by which means much dispatch would have been given to our survey, and our labours would have been carried on with much less danger and hardship than we had constantly endured.

I intended to proceed up this inlet, until I should see sufficient employment for two boat parties, which I was convinced the surrounding region would soon afford; and also to seek a convenient situation where the vessels might remain; and whilst this service was executing, to embrace the opportunity for making such astronomical observations as might be procured, and which were become necessary for correcting our survey, and ascertaining with precision the situation of the several parts of the broken region, through which we had passed in the vessels and in the boats from Restoration cove to this inlet. Pursuant to this determination we weighed about seven in the morning, and the Prince Lee Boo returned to the Butterworth.

At our anchorage, lying from point Maskelyne N. 24 E., distant six miles, the width of the inlet was scarcely half a league. On the western shore a small opening appeared to branch off in different directions. North of the island the breadth of the inlet increased again to about two or three miles, trending N. 39 E. In pursuing this line about four miles, we passed the south point of an opening on the eastern shore two miles wide, appearing to divide itself into several arms; but the western shore seemed to be compact, from the opening opposite the anchorage, until we arrived abreast of an opening, about two miles wide at its entrance, on the western shore, seemingly divided into two or three branches, taking a direction about N. 18 W. The observed latitude at this time was 54° 58′, longitude 230° 3′. The branch of the inlet we were now navigating was not of greater width, nor did it appear likely to become more extensive, than that to the westward of us just discovered. This made it uncertain which to consider as the main branch. Four other openings had been passed on the eastern shore, whose extent had not yet been ascertained; and although I was much inclined to follow the north-westerly branch, yet I was apprehensive, that by so doing we might be led too far from the continent, and by that means cause additional labour and loss of time. Our route was, for this season, continued to the N. N. E., and another division of the inlet stretching to the eastward was soon discovered.

In the event of a convenient situation being found in this branch, I intended to stop the vessels there, and made the Chatham’s signal, who had preceded us during the forenoon, to steer for the eastern opening, and shortened sail for the purpose of sending a boat before us to sound. Whilst we lay to wait the boat’s return, a few of the natives visited the ship in five or six canoes; they brought little to dispose of, yet appeared to be anxious that we should remain in their neighbourhood. Several inquiries were made for Ewen Nass, but these people seemed to be totally ignorant of the phrase, until it had been repeated several times, and we had pointed in various directions; upon which, some of them repeated the words, and imitated our motions, giving some amongst us reason to imagine, that they meant that Ewen Nass was up this identical branch of the inlet; though in all other respects we remained totally ignorant of their language.

The appearance and direction of this opening, however, by no means favored the opinion, that it was an extensive channel communicating with the ocean to the north. The water that flowed from it remained, without mixing, on the surface of the water of the inlet. The upper water was nearly fresh, of a lightish colour, interspersed with thick muddy sheets, indicating it to have flowed from a small river whose source was not very remote.

At three o’clock the cutter returned, with a very unfavorable account of the place so far as their examination had gone; especially on the northern side of the opening, from whence a shallow flat extended some distance, on which there was not more than from one to three fathoms water. The latter depth suddenly increased to 30, and, at the distance of a cable’s length from the edge of the bank, to 50 and 60 fathoms. This shallow flat made the communication with the shore very unpleasant, and appeared to be continued all round. To those in the cutter the opening seemed to be nothing more than a deep bay with very shallow water, excepting in its north-east part, where a branch from which the muddy water flowed, seemed to extend into the country. Across this branch they had also sounded, and found shallow water. As it did not, from this report, seem likely to answer our purpose, we proceeded round its north point of entrance, and again made sail up the inlet, which, beyond this bay, was in general about half a league wide. The shores on both sides were nearly straight and compact; in this pursuit our progress was greatly retarded by a counter tide, or under tow, and notwithstanding that we had a fresh gale from the south-east, the strength of this repelling current was such, that the wind had no influence whatever, though in other situations the vessel with such a gale would have gone five or six knots per hour. On this occasion the ship became totally unmanageable; the wind was sometimes a-head, at others a-stern, a-broadside, and in every other direction; and we were drifting from side to side in the most unpleasant situation imaginable for two hours and a half, when the force of the wind prevailing, we advanced slowly up the inlet until about eleven at night. The distance of its shores had now again increased, and the country became less elevated. A small cove was discovered on the eastern shore, where we anchored in 30 fathoms water.

This place, however, not appearing likely to suit our purpose, Mr. Whidbey was dispatched early the next morning in quest of a more convenient situation, which the adjacent shores promised to afford, particularly in the northern quarter, where the land was moderately elevated, and seemed to be much broken. The interior country was, however, still composed of lofty, barren, and snowy mountains.

In the forenoon Mr. Whidbey returned, having examined two or three coves, of which the most eligible appeared to be one that we had passed in the dark the preceding evening on the western shore, not more than a mile from our actual station. This afforded good anchorage, with every other convenience that we required. Having a moderate breeze from the southward, we lost no time in proceeding thither, where we anchored in 31 and 35 fathoms water, muddy and small-stony bottom. The points of the cove bore by compass N. N. E. and S. by E., the nearest shore W. by S., about a cable and a half distant, and the opposite shore of the inlet E. N. E., one mile distant.

On going on shore, we found a small canoe with three of the natives, who were employed in taking salmon, which were in great abundance, up a very fine run of fresh water that flowed into the cove. Some of these fish were purchased with looking glasses and other trinkets. They were small, insipid, of a very inferior kind, and partaking in no degree of the flavor of European salmon.

In the afternoon, the tents, observatory, chronometers, and instruments, were sent on shore, under the directions of Mr. Whidbey; and Mr. Johnstone in the Chatham’s cutter, accompanied by Mr. Barrie in the Discovery’s small cutter, and supplied with ten days provisions, departed for the purpose of recommencing the survey of the continental shore, northward from point Maskelyne.

The account I had received of this famous inlet from Mr. Brown, inducing me to undertake the principal examination of it myself, the Discovery’s yawl and launch were equipped with supplies for a fortnight, being as much as they could possibly stow; Lieutenant Swaine was directed to attend me in the latter, and Mr. Puget, with Mr. Menzies, accompanied me in the yawl. The appearance of the country, on the western side of this inlet, left me little doubt of its being the continent; and we departed in full expectation, that, during this excursion, we should finally determine the reality of the discoveries attributed to the labours of Admiral de Fonte.

With Mr. Whidbey I left the charge of the observatory, with orders to make all necessary observations for correcting the errors, and ascertaining the rate of the chronometers; and the more completely to effect the former, I desired that Mr. Baker, and some others of the gentlemen, would assist in making as many observations as the circumstances would admit of, for determining the true position of the station we had taken.

Matters being all adjusted and arranged, we departed at five o’clock on Wednesday morning the 24th, in thick, rainy, unfavorable weather, which continued until the forenoon, when it became fair and pleasant. Our course was first directed along the eastern shore, which, from our anchorage on the night of the 22d, took a direction N. 14 E. for six miles. We passed an island to the west of us, two miles long and half a mile broad, lying nearly in the same direction, about three fourths of a mile from the eastern shore; and having reached this extent, we entered a narrow arm, leaving to the west a coast apparently much broken, and divided by water.

As we rapidly advanced up this arm, with a southerly wind, and a flood tide in our favor, its width increased to about a mile, and taking a winding course to the E. N. E. it was terminated by a low border of land, in latitude 55° 26′, longitude 230° 36′.

We stopped to dine about a mile short of the low border of land, which composed the head of the arm. Here we were visited by seven of the natives, who approached us in a canoe with much caution, and landed some of their party at a little distance, whilst the others advanced, seemingly with no small suspicion of our friendly intentions; this, however, was soon removed by the distribution of some trivial presents amongst them; and their reception being made known to their companions who had landed, these without the least hesitation joined our party also. They were well prepared with arms, consisting of long spears, bows and arrows, together with an iron dagger, that each man wore about his neck or wrist. The chief of this party was soon pointed out, who, by means of signs easily understood, desired to partake of our repast. He was given some bread and dried fish, and afterwards a glass of brandy, all which were much relished by himself, and two or three of his friends. These people differed very little from the generality of the circumjacent natives, and rather seemed to be an exception to the trivial differences pointed out in those few inhabitants who visited us in Fishmonger’s cove. Their language appeared to be similar in some respects to that spoken at Queen Charlotte’s islands, at least a few common-place expressions of that language were understood by these people. They made use of these, with many signs, to solicit us to visit their habitations, pointing out their situation to be on the low land, at the head of the arm; but as it was out of our route, we declined their invitations, and, with a favorable ebb tide, returned towards the entrance of the arm, being accompanied by these our new acquaintances, who were soon joined by another party from the village in a smaller canoe. On finding, however, that we did not return for the purpose of trading, they all retired to the village.

About eight in the evening we reached the entrance of this arm, where we took up our abode for the night. The land of the shores which we had thus traced, was, comparatively speaking, low, yet the interior country rose suddenly, and terminated our view by a range of high barren mountains, mostly covered with snow. The soil of the lower parts near the shores, is chiefly composed of a light mossy substance, formed by the decay of trees and other vegetable productions, lying on an uneven rocky substance, which is the general foundation of this country, and of all the coast we had yet seen this season.

At four o’clock the next morning, Thursday the 25th, we proceeded again, with thick cloudy weather, attended with some flying showers of rain. Our course was directed up the branch that appeared to be the main arm of the inlet, through a narrow passage, occasioned by an island lying in mid-channel, about a league long, and three quarters of a mile broad, and having near it some rocks and breakers, like that we passed the preceding day. From the west point of the arm we had quitted, that which we were now pursuing extended N. 20 W. nearly straight, about ten miles; where, as usual, it was terminated by low swampy ground; and in latitude 55° 32′, longitude 230° 16′. Our expectations of discovering the extensive inland navigation, distinguished by the name of Ewen Nass, were here a little disappointed; still, however, we entertained hopes of succeeding, by the appearance of the low land on the western shore; and we returned in the afternoon to prosecute its examination. It was found to be a compact shore, much indented with small bays and coves, and abounding in some places with sunken rocks. In the south-westernmost of these coves, which is the deepest, we halted for the night; and although a situation for our tents was fixed upon amongst the pine trees, at least twenty feet above the surface of the water at our landing, and as we thought sufficiently without the reach of the tide, yet, about two in the morning of Friday the 26th, it flowed into the tents, and we were obliged to retire to our boats. At day-light we pursued the western shore of the inlet, towards the ships, where we arrived about noon.

I now entertained no doubt of this being the continental shore; and it was equally evident to me, that it extended itself far up that branch which we had passed in the afternoon of the 22d, leading to the N. N. W. Having therefore determined to prosecute my researches in that quarter, our stock of provisions was recruited; and, after dining on board, we recommenced our examination along the western shore of the inlet, and rested for the night in a small cove, about twelve miles to the southward of the ships. The afternoon and night were very rainy and unpleasant, but early the next morning, Saturday the 27th, we set out, with fair weather, and having a rapid tide in our favor, soon reached the east point of entrance into the N. N. W. branch; which, after Mr. Ramsden, the optician, I called Point Ramsden, lying in latitude 54° 59′, longitude 230° 2½′. Off this point are some dangerous rocks, that are visible only at low tide; from hence we directed our course N. W. three miles to a low point on the larboard shore, where we found this arm to communicate with another, leading in a S. W. and N. N. E. direction, and being in general about half a league in width. After breakfast, we pursued the latter direction, and steered for the eastern or continental shore. This extends first from point Ramsden N. 21 W. six miles, and takes a N. N. E. course.

As we advanced, we were joined by a party of fifteen natives in two canoes. A smoke had before been observed amongst the trees on the eastern shore, but we then saw no appearance of any habitations. These people approached us without much hesitation, and in their countenances was expressed a degree of savage ferocity infinitely surpassing any thing of the sort I had before observed in the various tribes that had fallen under my notice. Many of those we had before seen had their faces painted in various modes; but these had contrived so to dispose of the red, white, and black, as to render the natural ugliness of their countenances more horribly hideous. This frightful appearance did not seem to be a new fashion among them, but to have been long adopted by their naturally ferocious dispositions, and was correspondent to the stern and savage deportment they took so much pains to exhibit. I offered them such presents as we had been accustomed to make on similar occasions, but they were rejected by some with disdain, whilst the few who deigned to accept any thing, received our gifts with a stern and cool indifference. Amongst the party was a woman who was additionally disfigured by one of those extraordinary lip ornaments; this did not a little augment her froward, shrewish aspect. I offered her a looking glass, with some trinkets, but, at the instance of the most savage fellow of the party, she contemptuously rejected them. This Indian then arranged his spears, about six or eight in number, and placed them with their points just over the bow of the canoe, near where he sat; he also, laid near him his bow with some arrows; then put on his war garment, and drew his dagger. Some in the other canoe made similar preparations, either to menace an attack, or, what seemed to us more likely, to convince us they were upon their guard against any violence we might be inclined to offer them.

At this time we were considerably a-head of the other boat; and as it was necessary that we should shortly land on the point from whence the continent takes its N. N. E. direction, for the purpose of taking angles, we waited for the launch to come up; and during this interval, we used our endeavours to gain the confidence, and, if possible, to conciliate the good opinion of our visitors. But all was to no effect; they refused to accept any more presents, whilst those who had condescended to receive any, made signs that we should go to their place of abode, which we had by this time passed; and frequently made use of the words “Winnee watter,” signifying to stop and trade, producing at the same time some very indifferent sea otter skins. Recollecting the avidity with which all the inhabitants of these parts enter into commercial intercourse, I thought their uncourteous behaviour might have arisen from our backwardness in following the same pursuit; and hoped, by offering to trade with them, we should be able to obtain their friendship. But neither cloth, iron, copper, nor any thing we had, was in their opinions sufficient in quantity, or equal in quality, to the value of their skins; which were, without exception, the worst I had yet seen on the coast. On the launch coming up, we pulled towards the shore; they now seemed better pleased, and on landing they offered their skins again for sale, but it was not within our reach to purchase them. Whilst we remained together on shore, their behaviour was more civil, and we seemed to part on much better terms than we had met. They remained at the point, and we proceeded up the arm. Their absence, however, was not of long duration, as they shortly followed us, waving their skins, and exposing them for sale; and it was not a little extraordinary, that they should now exchange their skins, and other articles of traffic, for the very identical commodities which they had before rejected with so much contempt.

It was not easy to account for the singular appearance and rude behaviour of this tribe, so very different from what we had hitherto experienced; some amongst us suggested, that these people might probably belong to that party on whom Mr. Brown had recently been obliged to fire in this neighbourhood, and at no great distance from our actual station; but it appeared to me far more likely, that their resentment had been excited by our perfect indifference to their commodities brought for sale, and our having declined their invitations to the place of their abode. This opinion was soon confirmed by their subsequent conduct; on being now offered blue cloth for their skins, they began a song, that continued until they came close to us, when I observed that their arms and war garments were all laid aside; and having disposed of such things as they had for sale, they began to betray a somewhat thievish disposition. I endeavoured to make them sensible of my disapprobation of this conduct, and made signs that they should depart, with which they reluctantly complied.

I did not observe that these people differed from the generality of the North-West Americans, otherwise than in the ferocity of their countenances. Their weapons seemed well adapted to their condition; their spears, about sixteen feet long, were pointed with iron, wrought in several simple forms, amongst which some were barbed. Their bows were well constructed, and their arrows, with which they were plentifully supplied, appeared but rude, and were pointed with bone or iron. Each man was provided with an iron dagger, suspended from his neck in a leather sheath, seemingly intended to be used when in close action. Their war garments were formed of two, three, or more folds, of the strongest hides of the land animals they are able to procure. In the centre was a hole sufficient to admit the head and left arm to pass through; the mode of wearing them being over the right shoulder, and under the left arm. The left side of the garment is sewed up, but the right side remains open; the body is however tolerably well protected, and both arms are left at liberty for action. As a further security on the part which covers the breast, they sometimes fix on the inside thin laths of wood; the whole is seemingly well contrived, and I doubt not answers the essential purpose of protection against their native weapons.

The weather though pleasant was unfortunately cloudy about noon, and prevented any observation being made for the latitude. The same unfavorable circumstance attended us during our excursion to the northward of the vessels. We continued to the N. N. E., without meeting any interruption or break in the shores until about eight in the evening, when we arrived at a point on the western shore, situated in latitude 55° 16′, longitude 230° 8′. Near this point we rested for the night. From hence the arm took a direction N. 15 W., continuing in general about the same width. Between us and the opposite shore was a small island nearly in mid-channel.

The weather being fair and pleasant, we started early the next morning, Sunday the 28th, continuing our researches up this branch. At noon the observed latitude on the eastern shore was 55° 25′, the longitude 230° 5′. From hence it took a more northerly direction, and then trended a little to the eastward of north, where, by ten in the forenoon of Monday the 29th, it was found to terminate in low marshy land, in latitude 55° 45′, longitude 230° 6′. The shores of this inlet were nearly straight, and in general little more than a mile asunder, composed mostly of high rocky cliffs, covered with pine trees to a considerable height; but the more interior country was a compact body of high barren mountains covered with snow. As we pursued this branch, salmon in great plenty were leaping in all directions. Seals and sea otters were also seen in great numbers, even where the water was nearly fresh, and which was the case upwards of twenty miles from its termination.

Mortified with having devoted so much time to so little purpose, we made the best of our way back. At noon I observed the latitude to be 55° 42′; from whence to our reaching the western shore, near where we had entered this branch, occupied our time until late in the evening of Tuesday the 30th, when we brought to in a small cove, behind an island about half a league from us, and not far from the place where we had met the ungracious natives on the preceding Saturday.

The night was mild and pleasant, but a thick fog in the morning of Wednesday the 31st, not only obscured the surrounding shores, but prevented our departure until eight o’clock; when, on its dispersing, we directed our examination along the western, or continental shore, to the S. S. W. in a continuation of the branch we had seen on the morning of the 27th. The shores of both sides were straight, compact, of moderate height, and in general little more than a mile asunder. At noon the observed latitude on the western shore was 54° 55½′, longitude 229° 47′; the inlet still continuing in the same direction. On the western shore, about half a league to the southward of this station, we entered a small opening not more than a cable’s length in width, stretching to the northward; up this we had made a little progress, when the launch, which had preceded us and had reached its extremity, was met on her return. Mr. Swaine informed me, that its termination was about a league from its entrance, and that its width was from a quarter to half a league.

We stopped for the purpose of dining, and were visited by a canoe, in which were three persons; they approached us with little hesitation, and seemed well pleased on receiving a few trivial presents. They earnestly solicited our return to the head of this little arm, where, it appeared, their chief resided, and who had abundance of furs to barter for our commodities; but as it was out of our way, we declined their proposal; at which they seemed hurt and disappointed, but retired in perfect good humour.

After dinner we attempted to return by the way we had come, but on approaching the entrance, the rapidity of the flood tide prevented our advancing against it until near high water, about six in the evening. Many of the small trees, at the place where we had dined, had been cut down with an axe, an implement not yet in use with these people, who, on all such occasions, prefer any kind of chisel. The trees appeared to have been felled, for the purpose of gaining convenient access to the run of water hard by; and this gave rise to an opinion, that our dining place had lately been the resort of other civilized people.

Having again reached the arm leading to the S. S. W., we proceeded in that direction, and passed two small rocky islets, about a mile to the south of the last mentioned small arm. Finding the main channel now regularly decreasing to half a mile in width, and having a strong southerly breeze, we did not proceed more than three miles, before we rested for the night. The narrowness of the channel, and the appearance of its termination before us, would have induced me to have relinquished all thoughts of finding a communication with the ocean by this route, had it not been for the indications presented by the shores on either side. These gradually decreasing in height, with a very uneven surface, were intirely covered with pine trees; and as such appearances had, in most instances, been found to attend the broken parts of the country immediately along the sea coast, I was encouraged to persevere in this pursuit.

We had not been long landed, before the natives, who had visited us at dinner time, made their appearance again, accompanied by a large canoe, in which was the chief of their party.

I directed them to land at a small distance from our boats, with which they readily complied. The chief received some presents, and in return, gave me two or three sea otters’ tails. This intercourse seemed, by our signs, and such words as we had picked up, to be an assurance of a good understanding between us; and, on a promise of entering further into trade the next morning, they retired to a small cove about half a mile from us, with every appearance of being perfectly satisfied; but, about an hour afterwards, one of their canoes was seen paddling towards us. On this a pistol was fired in the air, which had the good effect of shewing that we were upon our guard, and prevented their giving us any further disturbance.

As soon as it was day-light in the morning of August 1793 Thursday the 1st of August, these people, accompanied by another canoe, were with us according to appointment the preceding evening. They offered for sale the skins of the sea otter, and a large black bear, that seemed to have been killed by a spear in the course of the night. I was not backward in complying with our part of the agreement; but, like those whom we had seen on Saturday, these rejected every article we had with us for the purpose of barter; and, excepting fire-arms and ammunition, which were not offered to them, we could not discover on what their inclinations were placed. They followed us however for two miles, persisting in desiring we would “Winnee watter,” until, at length, finding no other articles were tendered them than those they had before declined, they retired, exclaiming “Pusee” and “Peshack;” which could not be misunderstood as terms of disapprobation.

This party, including one woman with a lip ornament, consisted of sixteen or eighteen persons, who, in character, much resembled (though I think they were not quite so ferocious) those we had seen the preceding Saturday. This woman, as well as the other we had seen on the 27th, steered the canoe. She appeared to be a most excessive scold, and to possess great authority. She had much to say respecting the whole of their transactions, and exacted the most ready obedience to her commands, which were given in a very surly manner, particularly in one instance to a man in the bow of the canoe; who, in compliance to her directions, immediately made a different disposition of the spears. These had all lain on one side of him, just pointed over the bow of the canoe, with several things carelessly lying over them; but on his receiving her commands the outer ends were projected further, their inner ends cleared of the lumber that was over them, and the whole, amounting to about a dozen, were equally divided, and regularly laid on each side of him.

From the place at which we had slept, this channel took a direction S. 42 W., about a league and a half, to a point in latitude 54° 48′, longitude 229° 39½′, from whence the continental shore takes a direction N. 25 W. about a league, through a narrow channel not a fourth of a mile in breadth; having in it several islets and rocks. In order to make sure of keeping the continental shore on board, we pursued this, and left the south-westerly channel, whose width had increased to about a mile, and whose shores appeared to be much broken, as if admitting several passages to the sea. At the north end of this narrow channel we came to a larger one extending N. 35 E. and S. 35 W. The former first attracted our notice; this by noon was found to end in latitude 54° 55½′, longitude 229° 40′; not in low marshy land, as had been generally the case in the interior parts of our survey, but by low though steep rocky shores, forming many little bays and coves, abounding with rocks and rocky islets. Here were seen an immense number of sea otters, and amongst them some few seals, but more of the former than I had yet noticed. Having dined we pursued the examination of the continent in a south-westerly direction, which brought us by the evening to its end in that direction, in latitude 54° 48½′, longitude 229° 31½′. From hence the channel extended to the S. S. E. and met that which we had quitted in the morning, making the land which formed the western shore of the narrow channel, and that before us to the eastward, an island about ten miles in circuit. The shores, that had been nearly straight and compact since we had quitted the rocky arm above mentioned, became again indented with bays and coves, bounded by many rocks and rocky islets.

In examining these broken parts of the shore, the launch had preceded the yawl whilst I was taking the necessary angles. On our turning sharp round a point, I discovered her endeavouring as I supposed to pass a most tremendous fall of water; the evening at this time was nearly closing in, and being now about high tide, the fall appeared to be adverse to their proceeding; but finding they continued to advance, I hailed, and waved them to desist. On our meeting, I found they had possessed but sufficient strength and time to extricate themselves from a very alarming situation. The direction of the fall was in a contrary line to what they had expected, as the water was rushing with great impetuosity through a narrow rocky channel, and falling into a bason whose surface appeared to be greatly beneath the level of the channel we were navigating; on their perceiving this, their utmost exertions were required for a short time, to prevent the boat from being drawn within its vortical influence. About a mile from the above point, nearly in a south direction, we brought to for the night.

In the morning of Friday the 2d we set out early, and passed through a labyrinth of small islets and rocks along the continental shore; this, taking now a winding course to the south-west and west, shewed the south-eastern side of the channel to be much broken, through which was a passage leading S. S. E. towards the ocean. We passed this in the hope of finding a more northern and westerly communication; in which we were not disappointed, as the channel we were then pursuing was soon found to communicate also with the sea; making the land to the south of us one or more islands. From the north-west point of this land, situated in latitude 54° 45½′, longitude 229° 28′, the Pacific was evidently seen between N. 88 W. and S. 81 W. Off the point, at a little distance from the main land, was an island about half a mile from us; the opposite, or continental shore, lying north-east, not quite half a mile distant. Between this and the westernmost land in sight the shores appeared to be much divided, with small rocky islets and breakers in most directions. Between these and the continental shore, our way was directed N. 26 W.; at the distance of two miles we passed a large deserted village, on the north point of a small cove; which point may also be considered as the south-east point of entrance into a narrow arm, taking nearly a north direction; half a league to the northward of this point the eastern shore formed three small bays or coves, with four or five islets before them. On the point which divides the two southernmost of these coves, I observed the latitude to be 54° 49′, the longitude 229° 29′; from whence the inlet took a direction about N. 8 W.; the shores became nearly straight and compact, and were in general about half a mile asunder. The surrounding land being of moderate height, and of that uneven surface generally exhibited by the insular countries lying on the sea coast, afforded reasonable grounds to believe the western shore to be an island; in which case we should have been enabled to trace the continental boundaries a considerable distance to the north. About six in the evening our hopes vanished, by our arriving at the head of the arm, where it terminated in a small fresh water brook, flowing from low marshy ground, in latitude 54° 56′, longitude 229° 28′. Before it were several rocks and some rocky islets.

This disappointment occasioned us no small degree of mortification, since we had already been absent from the ship a whole week, with the finest weather the season had yet afforded; and though our utmost exertions had been called forth in tracing the continent through this labyrinth of rocks, we had not advanced more than thirteen leagues in a right line from the ships to the entrance of this inlet, and that in a south-west direction; very different from the course we could have wished to have pursued. It was also now evident that we had the exterior coast to contend with, and from the length of time we had been indulged with fine weather, we could not reasonably expect its continuing much longer; indeed, the appearance of the evening indicated an unfavorable alteration, which made me apprehensive, that probably the finest part of the season had been devoted, in our late pursuit, to a very perplexing object of no great value or consideration.

On the low land forming the upper extremity of this arm, we saw some animals like wolves, but the shallowness of the water prevented our approaching near enough to fire at them with any probability of success. From hence we returned by the western shore, passing three or four rocky islets, and rested for the night about a league to the N. N. W. of our station at noon. During the night there fell a great quantity of rain, but towards the morning of Saturday the 3d it in some measure abated, though the weather still continued very gloomy and hazy; we had however no time to spare, and it becoming necessary that we should proceed as far as circumstances would admit, we started early, and kept along the continental shore, which was much indented with small bays, and bounded by innumerable rocks. We passed to the south of us a cluster of rocks and islands, extending nearly in a south-west and north-east direction about half a league. The outermost lies nearly south-east, about two miles and a half, from the point seen the former morning, and stated to be the north point of the passage leading towards the ocean. We arrived at this point by noon, but the weather then becoming thick and hazy, attended by heavy rain, and a strong gale from the south-west, obliged us to make for the first place of safety we could reach. Close round to the north-west of the above point, which, after the Right Honourable Charles James Fox, I called Cape Fox, in latitude 54° 45½′ longitude 229° 22′, we retired to a very unsheltered cove, where we remained some hours, though by no means pleasantly circumstanced. The weather in the afternoon for a short time bore a more favorable aspect, and tempted us again to proceed along the exterior coast, which now took nearly a west direction; but we had scarcely advanced beyond the rocks that encumber the shore, when the gale from the southward increased, attended with a very heavy swell, and thick misty weather. This obliged us again to seek some place of security, which we very fortunately found about half a league to the westward of cape Fox, in a very commodious well sheltered little cove; which protected us during the night from an excessively heavy rain, and a very hard gale of wind from the south-east, which brought from the ocean so heavy a sea upon these shores, as to invade even our snug retreat.

About eight o’clock the next morning, Saturday the 4th, the weather again moderated, and the wind favoring our pursuit, we again proceeded, although it continued to rain and was otherways very unpleasant. We resumed our examination along the coast, taking a rounding direction from the cove N. W. by W. four miles and then N. 15 W. near seven miles further, to a projecting point on the shore that obtained the name of Foggy Point, situated in latitude 54° 54½′, longitude 229° 11′.

The weather continued very unfavorable to our researches; it permitted us to distinguish the rocky shores along which we passed only from point to point; landing was not only difficult but very dangerous, and could only be effected in the chasms of the rocks, near to the several points on which it was indispensibly necessary to land, for the purpose of ascertaining the positive direction of the coast; which, by the time we had reached Foggy point, not being visible at the distance of fifty yards, we stopped to dine, having in the course of the morning been again excluded from the ocean. And though the thickness of the weather had prevented our seeing by what means this had taken place, it was manifest, that either land or shoals now intervened, as we had intirely lost the oceanic swell, that a few miles to the south had rolled in, and broke with great violence from the shores.

By the time we had dined the fog sufficiently cleared away, to admit of our gaining a tolerably distinct view of our situation. It was on the south point of a bay, in which were many small islands and rocks. The opposite side of the opening in which we had advanced during the fog, was also indistinctly seen to the westward and north-west, composed of a country moderately elevated, covered with trees, and which seemed much divided by water. After taking the necessary angles, we proceeded along the continent round the shores of the above bay; and in its northern corner, our time was again unprofitably spent in examining a narrow opening about two miles in extent to the north-east. From thence, through a labyrinth of rocks and shoals, we steered over to the north-westernmost and largest of those islands lying from Foggy point, N. 20 W. near a league, where we took up our abode for the night. The wind blew strong attended with heavy rain, which towards day-light the next morning, Monday the 5th, abated, and we again proceeded along the continental shore. This, from the narrow N. E. opening, took first a N. W. course for two miles and a half, and then N. by E., about the same distance, to a point in latitude 55° 1′, longitude 229° 8½′, forming the S. E. point of an inlet (its opposite point of entrance lying a quarter of a mile distant N. 25 W.) apparently of some extent, to the north-eastward; but its entrance, and its exterior shores to the north and south, were rendered almost inaccessible by islets and rocks. It was, however, indispensibly necessary, that we should visit such branches of the sea, as the boundaries of the continental shore could only be established by the strictest examination of every arm, inlet, creek, or corner.

Having breakfasted, we proceeded along the starboard or continental shore. This took a direction first N. 50 E., to a point about seven miles from the entrance; within which distance we observed the latitude on the opposite, or N. W. shore, to be 55° 4½′. From this point, the shores became less elevated than those we had passed from the entrance of the inlet; particularly that on the starboard side, which took a S. S. E. direction, and had now increased to two miles in width. Having advanced about four miles in this line, a small branch was seen in the former direction, about half a mile wide, having a small island in its entrance; about two miles from whence it terminated in low marshy land; situated, according to my survey, not more than four miles distant, and in a direction N. N. W. from the head of the arm we had quitted on the evening of the 2d, making the shores of the main land along which we had navigated since that time a peninsula, fifteen leagues round, united by this narrow isthmus. Such was the slow and irksome process by which our researches were carried into execution, on account of the extremely divided state of this extraordinary inhospitable region.

From the entrance of this small branch, the starboard shore of the inlet takes a direction N. 60 E. for a league, to another branch of the same extent and direction, passing a small round island in mid-channel, another in the entrance of the little arm, and a third a little way within it. From hence, the width of the inlet became contracted to three quarters of a mile, taking a course N. 5 E. two miles, to a third small branch about a mile further, where we rested for the night; and in the morning of Tuesday the 6th found it extend N. 73 E. for two miles. Here it terminated in low land at the head; but the sides were so steep and rocky, that it was with some difficulty we could find a sufficient space for making a fire to dress our provisions. From hence we pursued the main branch of the inlet, about three quarters of a mile wide, which took nearly a direction N. 25 E., 4½ leagues; where it finally terminated in latitude 55° 17′, longitude 229° 36½′.

The sides of this channel are nearly straight, firm, and compact, composed of high steep rocky cliffs, covered with wood as high as the thick rainy weather permitted us to see. At its head was a small border of low land, through which flowed two small rivulets. On the larboard shore, about eight miles within the entrance, we had passed two openings; these, on our return, were found to be very inconsiderable; the easternmost, which was the largest did not extend more than two miles north from the shores of the main inlet, where it terminated in latitude 55° 9′, longitude 229° 19′; the other, not more than a mile in length, and in a parallel direction, ended S. W. by S., about a mile from the head of the former.

The weather continued very rainy and unpleasant until two in the afternoon of the following day, Wednesday the 7th; at which time we had reached a small islet, lying N. 70 E. one mile and three quarters from the point where we had breakfasted on the morning of the 5th; at this islet we stopped to dine.

The atmosphere soon after became clear, and gave us a most distinct and satisfactory view of the surrounding region, and proved our situation to be in a spacious branch of the ocean, extending in two or three different directions.

Since we had left cape Fox, we had conceived ourselves to be in the southern entrance of the Canal de Revilla Gigedo, as represented in Sen^r Caamano’s chart. Although this gave but a faint idea of the shores we were tracing, it had sufficient resemblance, in the general outline, to leave no doubt of our being in the precise situation intended in that representation; and hence it appeared, that the inlet which had occupied our time the two preceding days, was called Bocas de Quadra. The south point of its entrance in the chart is, however, placed in 55° 11′, which is 10° further north than it appeared to be by our observations.

An extensive opening, dividing the western land between N. 60 W., and N. 46 W., was evidently a continuation of the Canal de Revilla Gigedo, and its southern side, the Island de Gravina. The width of this channel at Foggy point is about four miles, and abreast of this land not quite a league; though, in the Spanish chart, it is laid down at the width of eight or nine miles, from the entrance to this station. The land in the Canal de Revilla Gigedo was too distant to admit of our ascertaining the situation of any of his particular points, excepting that above mentioned, lying N. 46½ W., five miles from this island; it is very conspicuous, and forms the west part of an extensive branch, taking apparently a northern course along the shores of the continent. To this point I gave the name of Point Alava, in compliment to the Spanish governor at Nootka.

The opposite, or western shore, particularly to the south of the Canal de Revilla Gigedo, seemed to be much broken. The shores in most directions were low, or of a moderate height; but the more interior country was composed of mountains covered with snow, not only in the eastern quarter, but to the northward and westward.

The islet on which we had dined, seemed to be formed of different materials from those we had been accustomed to visit; it being one intire quarry of slate. In walking round and across it, through the trees, we found no other sort of stone. Slate had been frequently seen forming a kind of beach, or in thin strata, lying between the rocks; but, till now, we had never met with this substance in such a prodigious mass. This islet, which obtained the name of Slate Islet, we quitted, leaving the Canal de Revilla Gigedo to the westward of us, and directing our inquiries along the continental shore, to a point that lies from Slate islet N. 10 W. four miles. This, after one of the gentlemen of the Discovery, I named Point Sykes. From thence, the continental shore, which is a little indented and has a few small islets and rocks lying near it, takes a direction about N. 37 E. to a point, which, after Captain^[2] Nelson of the navy, I named Point Nelson, situated in latitude 55° 15′, longitude 259° 17½′, and which we reached the next morning, Thursday the 8th, by half past six. The inlet up which we had thus navigated, was from two to four miles wide. From this point it seemed to be divided into three branches; one leading to the north-west; another to the north, in the centre of which, four or five leagues distant, was a rock much resembling a vessel under sail, lying N. 7 W., and seemingly detached from the shores; and the third took an easterly direction along the continuation of the continent. The last occupied our attention, and employed the whole day, which was very rainy and unpleasant. It was found to be about three quarters of a mile wide, irregularly extending N. 80 E. for two leagues, and then towards the north-east for four miles further, where it terminated in the usual manner, in latitude 55° 18½′, longitude 229° 29½′; having a bay or cove on its eastern shore, which, in an E. S. E. direction, approached within about two miles of the northern part of Bocas de Quadra.

The surrounding country consisted of a huge mass of steep, barren, rocky mountains, destitute of soil; whose summits were perpetually covered with snow. Excepting at the head of the arm where the land was low, these mountains rose in nearly perpendicular cliffs from the water’s edge, producing only a few scattered dwarf trees.

Not far from the spot on which we had dined, and near the ruins of a few temporary huts of the natives, we found a box about three feet square, and a foot and a half deep, in which were the remains of a human skeleton, which appeared, from the confused situation of the bones, either to have been cut to pieces, or thrust with great violence into this small space. One or two other coffins, similar to this, had been seen in the excursions of the boats this season; but as we had met with so few of this description, I was inclined to suppose that this mode of depositing their dead is practised only in respect to certain persons of their society, since, if it had been the general usage, we should in all probability have more frequently noticed them.

By the evening we reached the main inlet again, where, on a point which I named Point Trollop, in a direction from point Nelson N. 20 W. distant a league and a half, we rested for the night, and the next morning started at an early hour.

Having advanced about a mile along the continental shore, we again quitted the main branch of the inlet, and entered a very narrow channel, in some places navigable only for boats and canoes. This extended, with little deviation, N. 7 W. seven miles, when it again communicated with the branch of the inlet, making the western shore two long narrow islands. The southernmost is about half a league long. A small round island lies off the north-west point of the most northern, from whence we again saw the remarkable rock resembling a ship under sail, before mentioned, lying N. 22 W. near a league distant, having between it and the continental shore several rocks and islets. Its situation and elevation, if accessible, promised to afford us an excellent view of the inlet; and its singular pyramidical appearance from this point of view invited our curiosity. We reached this rock about seven, and found the main inlet, (whose sides were compact for four or five leagues, excepting in the appearance of an opening lying N. 37 E. about a league from us) to take nearly a north direction, maintaining a width from two to three miles. On the base of this singular rock, which, from its resemblance to the Light House rock off Plymouth, I called the New Eddystone, we stopped to breakfast, and whilst we were thus engaged, three small canoes, with about a dozen of the natives, landed and approached us unarmed, and with the utmost good humour accepted such presents as were offered to them, making signs, in return, that they had brought nothing to dispose of, but inviting us, in the most pressing manner, to their habitations; where, they gave us to understand, they had fish skins, and other things in great abundance, to barter for our commodities; amongst which blue cloth seemed to be the most esteemed. They pointed out the situation of their residence to be on the eastern shore; but as that was behind us, and as we had no time for unnecessary delays, their civil intreaties were declined, and we departed from the new Eddystone, which is certainly a very remarkable rock. Its circumference at its base is about fifty yards, standing perpendicularly on a surface of fine, dark-coloured sand. It is intirely detached, at the distance of two miles from the eastern, and one from the western shore of the inlet, in latitude 55° 29′, longitude 229° 15′. Its surface is uneven, and its diameter regularly decreases to a few feet at its apex, which is nearly flat, and seemed to be in every direction perpendicular to the centre of its base; its height, by a rude measurement, was found to be upwards of two hundred and fifty feet. The fissures and small chasms in its sides, quite up to its summit, afforded nourishment to some small pine trees and various shrubs. The south and eastern part of its base is an intire bed of sand; to the north, about two hundred yards from it, extended a ledge of rocks, that stretched a small distance, and was visible only at low tide, beyond which the bottom was unfathomable with our lines.

The natives attended us for a short time, but finding that our course was not directed towards their habitations, they retired; after having given us to understand by signs, that at night we should find the inlet closed on all sides, that we should sleep at its termination, and requested that on our return we would visit their habitations.

We soon arrived at the point that had in appearance formed an opening in the eastern shore, and found that our conjectures had been well founded; it being the south point of a branch, in general about three quarters of a mile wide, irregularly extending N. 53 E. two leagues, with a cove on the southern shore, and forming at the above extent two other coves; one in a direction S. 24 E. two miles and a half long, the other north, two miles long, terminating in latitude 55° 37½′, longitude 229° 29′. The examination of this insignificant branch, winding between an immense body of high, barren, snowy mountains, occupied the remainder of the day. About ten at night we reached the main inlet, and took up our abode until the next morning, Saturday the 10th, at a point on the continental shore.

The weather being again fair and pleasant, we early directed our way along the continental shore, which was nearly straight and compact, and trending about N. 5 W. About our time of breakfast, we arrived at the south point of another of those arms, about half a mile wide, which had hitherto employed the major part of our time to so little purpose.

Our situation at this juncture required some attention. The time was expired for which our provisions had been supplied, and we were now one hundred and twenty miles from the ships by the nearest route we could pursue. It was extremely mortifying to reflect, that after all our exertions, no one point had been gained to facilitate the progress of the vessels; as the way by which we had advanced thus far was infinitely too intricate for them; and if the want of provisions should now oblige us to return before we could determine the extent of this spacious inlet, which still continued to be between two and three miles wide, our labours would become ineffectual, because it would be necessary that the same space should be traversed again, to accomplish what we might be compelled to leave unfinished.

Under these considerations, and well knowing from experience that all the small branches leading to the eastward either terminate at the foot of the lofty range of rugged mountains, or else form into islands parts of the shores of these inlets; I determined to decline their further examination, and to proceed in the main channel to ascertain the truth of the information derived from the natives, or to discover some eligible passage, by which the vessels might advance towards the extent of our present researches. Our prospect of succeeding in this particular was not very flattering. We lost no time, however, in making the best of our way; and from the entrance of this arm, which is situated in latitude 55° 41′, longitude 229° 16′, as we advanced up the main inlet, the general opinion seemed to support the account of the natives; and that the evening would certainly bring us to its final termination. The water was of a very light colour, not very salt, and the interior country of the western shore rose to rugged mountains, little inferior in height to those on the eastern side; which we knew to be a continuation of the continent, now taking a direction N. 35 W. In the forenoon we passed a small cluster of rocks and islets a mile in extent, lying in the line of the eastern shore, at the distance of about half a mile from it. The latitude at noon I observed to be 55° 44′; and soon afterwards we passed a small opening, that appeared to form a bay half a mile wide, and about a mile deep, in a north-east direction. As we pursued our route in the afternoon, the shores, which were no where more than two miles asunder, took a more westerly direction, affording some small bays and coves.

The weather being calm and pleasant, we made a tolerable progress until late in the evening, when we arrived at a point in latitude 55° 56′, longitude 228° 54½′; and although the night was too far advanced to see distinctly about us, yet we had no doubt of our having reached the confluence of this inlet with two other branches, lying nearly at right angles to it. A fresh breeze blew up the branch leading to the south-west till after dark; this I considered as the sea breeze, indicating our vicinity to the exterior coast; or possibly, our approach to wider channels leading more immediately towards the ocean. The whiteness and freshness of the water, with other circumstances common to our general observation, presented themselves however in opposition to this opinion; and gave us some reason to believe that we should be obliged to return by the same track we had come. Such was the uncertainty with which, in general, all our conjectures were attended, from the various appearances that occurred in exploring this country.

I felt much regret that I had left unexamined the small branch we had seen in the morning, and the bay we had passed in the course of the afternoon; as these researches would have completely ascertained the continental shore to this point, which I distinguished by the name of Point Fitzgibbon. I determined, however, to pursue the branch that now appeared to the north-east, and seemed of some extent; as, should this be found to terminate, there would be little reason to suppose, even if we had been able to examine them, that the others would have led to any thing of importance.

The next morning, Sunday the 11th, we accordingly proceeded; the north-east branch was found in general to be about a mile wide; and keeping on its southern shore, which is much indented with small bays; at half past six we arrived at its termination in latitude 56° 1½′, longitude 229° 1′, by low land; through which two or three small rivulets appeared to flow over a bank of mud, stretching from the head of the arm, and reaching from side to side, on which was lodged a considerable quantity of drift wood. The water was perfectly fresh, extremely muddy, and the whole surface was strewed over with salmon, either dead, or in the last stages of their existence. Many had life sufficient to give them motion, though wanting vital powers to keep them beneath the surface of the water. In the course of this excursion great numbers of these fish had been seen, not only in all the arms, but in almost every run of fresh water, particularly near the terminations of the several inlets, where they were innumerable, though most of them were in a sickly condition. We had no difficulty to take as many of the best as we were inclined to make use of; they however had little of the colour, and nothing of the flavor of salmon, and were very insipid and indifferent food. They were all small, of one sort, and were called by us hunch-backed salmon; from an excrescence that rose along the upper part of the backs of the male fish, where the back fins are inserted. This protuberance is much thinner than the body of the fish, which below it takes nearly a cylindrical form. These were the worst eating fish; the females were not so deformed, though the mouths of both were made in a kind of hook, resembling the upper mandible of a hawk. The sickly condition of these fish appeared to be consequent on the season of their spawning, and may possibly be occasioned by their exertions, in forcing their way up the runs of fresh water, against the impetuosity of the torrents that rush into the sea; by which means they had evidently received many bruises and other injuries. If any just conclusion is to be drawn from the appearance of the immense numbers found dead, not only in the water, but lodged on the shores below high water mark, it should seem that their death takes place immediately after spawning.

Having traced the north-east extent of this branch, and finding it only to form a deep bay (which obtained the name of Burrough’s Bay,) we returned along the northern shore, which took a direction somewhat irregularly S. 53 W. down the south-westerly branch, to a point on which I observed the latitude to be 55° 54′, longitude 228° 46′. At this station, which I call Point Lees, the width of the south-west channel was decreased to less than a mile, and from hence its north-east point of entrance, which I named Point Whaley, lies N. 68 E. distant four miles.

As we advanced, the colour of the water gradually, though slowly, turned dark; and the wind blowing fresh from the south-west, still cherished the hope that the land, forming the western side of the extensive northern arm we had navigated from point Alava to point Whaley, and southern sides of this south-westerly branch, would be found to compose an extensive island, and that we should obtain a passage to the ships by the route we were then pursuing.

On this point was found the remains of a deserted village, the largest of any I had yet seen for some time, and so constructed as to contain, by our estimation, at least three or four hundred people, who appeared to have quitted it not many months before. Shortly after noon, we reached a narrow opening on the northern shore leading to the northward; this was passed by unexamined, and we stopped to dine about a mile to the south-west of it; and in a direction S. 63 W. distant about a league from the deserted village. We soon proceeded again, and by eight in the evening arrived at a point on the southern shore in latitude 55° 50′, longitude 228° 30′.

The doubts we had entertained respecting our situation were now in a great measure satisfied, for the water had again nearly resumed its oceanic taste and colour; and the channel which from hence turned sharp to the south, seemed to widen in that direction. A point on the northern shore lying N. 49 E. about a mile distant, formed the south-east point of a small opening, that appeared to branch off in two directions; one leading to the north, the other to the E. N. E.; the latter having the appearance of communicating with that seen in the afternoon, making the land on which we had dined in that case an island. About nine o’clock we took up our abode for the night, and on the following morning, Monday the 12th, proceeded to the southward, with little doubt of finding by that course our way back to the station of the vessels; from whence we were now at least one hundred and forty miles distant. The weather being calm and hazy, prevented our seeing distinctly the surrounding regions, yet we were able to discern two openings on the western shore, leading towards the north-west. The southernmost of these seemed spacious, and about two miles in width. South of this opening the western shore appeared to be nearly compact, with one or two small bays only, and a few detached islets lying at a distance from it; whilst the eastern shore, along which we passed, was considerably broken. Its several inlets however were disregarded, as we had barely time to obtain at the different stations the necessary angles for fixing the general outline of the shores of this channel, whose width as we advanced appeared to increase from one to nearly two leagues.

As our route was directed to one of these necessary stations, some of the natives were observed in their canoes near the shore; four of these canoes appearing to be large and well manned, went towards the launch, then some distance a-stern of us; and by their singing, which we heard, appeared to be very peaceably inclined. We were also visited by a small canoe containing only two of the natives, who approached us without hesitation, and with the greatest good humour accepted such trifling presents as were offered to them, and made known our friendly behaviour to some of their associates who were still on the shore. These, apparently at the instance of the other two, came off in two small canoes, that just reached us as we were putting on shore for the purpose of taking the requisite angles. Their behaviour was civil and inoffensive, and they seemed equally well satisfied with the presents that were distributed amongst them. They offered their skins and other commodities to barter, which were accordingly exchanged; and thus, without the least apprehension on our parts of any evil design in these people, who like most of the natives we had lately seen were well armed, I landed, leaving Mr. Puget in the yawl, using his endeavours to entertain our new visitors. In a little time they became extremely clamorous, and were hallowing to the large canoes that were near the launch. On my return into the boat, Mr. Puget informed me that the natives had betrayed a very thievish disposition, and that he had great reason to suspect they were inclined to be turbulent. I immediately ordered the boat from off the shore, hoping by that means to get quit of them, but in this attempt they were excessively troublesome; the number of their canoes was by this time four or five, in these they laid fast hold by the boat’s quarters, calling out “Winnee watter”; though at our solicitations they frequently quitted their hold, but which they almost instantly again resumed; we had however put off from the rocks, and had partly got the use of our oars, without being obliged to resort to any hostile measures, when the largest of the canoes, under the steerage of an old woman, with a remarkably large lip ornament, laid us on board across the bow; this vixen instantly snatched up the lead line that was lying there, and lashed her canoe with it to the boat; whilst a young man, appearing to be the chief of the party, seated himself in the bow of the yawl, and put on a mask resembling a wolf’s face, compounded with the human countenance. About this time the Indian who had first visited us, watching his opportunity, stole a musket out of the boat. Our situation was now become very critical and alarming; we had discovered too late the treacherous designs of these people, and to add to our embarrassment, the launch was yet too far distant to afford us any immediate succour. The only chance we had for our preservation, was, if possible, to ward off the blow by a kind of parley, until our friends might come up, who were hastening with their utmost exertions to our assistance. With these ideas, I went forward with a musket in my hand in order to speak to the chief; on which the surrounding Indians, about fifty in number, seized their daggers, brandished their spears, and pointed them towards us in all directions. I was not yet without hopes of effecting an amicable separation, without being under the necessity of resorting to extremities. The chief instantly quitted the boat at my request, and gave me to understand by signs, that if I would lay down my musket, his people would lay down their arms; on my disposing of my gun, the conditions were complied with on all sides, and tranquillity appeared likely to be restored; nor do I believe that any thing further would have happened, had they not been mitigated by the vociferous efforts of their female conductress; who seemed to put forth all the powers of her turbulent tongue to excite, or rather to compel the men, to act with hostility towards us. Her language appeared to have the most effect upon those who were towards the stern of our boat, and who were likewise greatly encouraged by a very ferocious looking old man in a middling-sized canoe. This old fellow, assisted by his companions, seized hold of our oars on the starboard side, and prevented their being used. Observing this, and that the spears were again brandishing in that quarter, I again made signs for peace, and went immediately aft; where I found Mr. Puget using his utmost endeavours to accomplish the same desirable object, which seemed once more likely to take place by their laying down their arms a second time.

This posture of affairs continued however but for a few moments. I had scarcely turned round, before I saw the spears, in the canoe which contained the chief and the old woman, all in motion; but on my stepping forward they were again dropped. Whilst I was thus engaged, the Indians near the stern of the boat became very troublesome; and, as I was passing back along the boat, a general commotion seemed to have taken place; some spears were thrust, one or two of which passed very near me, and the Indians, in all directions, began to seize all the moveables in our boat that they could possibly reach, and to commit other acts of violence. Our destruction now seemed almost inevitable; as I could hardly flatter myself that the force we had to oppose against the number that surrounded us, and, as it were, held us so completely within their power, would have been sufficient to make them retire.

By this time, however, which was about ten minutes from my return to the boat, the launch had arrived within pistol-shot; and being now thoroughly satisfied that our forbearance had given them confidence, and that our desire for peace had rather stimulated them to acts of temerity than dissuaded them from their hostile intentions; and seeing no alternative left for our preservation against numbers so superior, but by making use of the coercive means we had in our power, I gave directions to fire; this instantly taking effect from both boats, was, to my great astonishment, attended with the desired effect, and we had the happiness of finding ourselves immediately relieved from a situation of the most imminent danger.

Those in the small canoes jumped into the sea, whilst those in the large ones, by getting all on one side, raised the opposite sides of their canoes, so that they were protected from the fire of the yawl, though they were in some measure exposed to that of the launch; and in this manner they scrambled sideways to the shore.

The only arms they had left us in the yawl, besides those in the arm chest, were a blunderbuss, a musket, a fowling-piece loaded with small shot, and a brace of pocket pistols; the rest of the arms that had usually been kept at hand, consisting of three muskets and a fowling-piece, having been stolen, in the affray, together with two cartridge boxes, some books, and other articles of little value. The arm chest, however, afforded a sufficient supply for our future defence, and were immediately got in readiness for our protection; whilst the chastizement I intended to bestow on these treacherous people, by destroying their canoes, should be carried into execution. But, as we were pulling towards the shore for this purpose, I understood that two of our boat’s crew were very badly wounded, which circumstance had escaped my notice, by their having continued to exert themselves in their respective stations; and this very unpleasant intelligence immediately induced me to decline the punishment I had meditated to inflict for the unprovoked aggression of the natives.

The Indians, on reaching the shore, ascended the high rocky cliffs of which it is composed, from whence they endeavoured to annoy those in the launch by stones, some of which fell into her at the distance of thirty or forty yards from the shore, and from whence also they fired a musket. The arms they had stolen from our boat were all loaded; beside these, they had fire-arms of their own, but I had reason to believe they were not charged at the time of their attack upon us, as one of the most savage-looking fellows amongst them, just as I gave orders to fire, snapped his piece at me; but it missed fire, and he immediately laid it down, and took up his spear with all imaginable composure.

The launch was now ordered to join us, and an equal distribution of the remaining arms and ammunition was made in both boats. Being now fully prepared to repel any further attack, we rested on our oars about a quarter of a mile from the precipice the Indians had gained, until Mr. Menzies had dressed the wounded men. Robert Betton, in the act of removing the arm chest, was first wounded in the breast, but by his seizing the spear, he in a great measure parried the blow, and destroyed its force; but on its being instantly repeated, he received a very deep wound in the upper part of his thigh, which was little short of being mortal. George Bridgeman was also badly wounded lower down in the thigh, by a spear that passed quite through, from one side to the other. I had the satisfaction however to learn from Mr. Menzies, after he had dressed the wounds, that he considered neither of them likely to be attended with any present danger, nor with consequences that would be inconvenient hereafter.

Betton and Bridgeman had both received their wounds as I was returning the second time to the stern of the boat, and just before I was compelled to give the order to fire; the former as above stated, and the latter in preventing those in the large canoe, lying across our boat’s bows, from unshipping one of the wall-pieces. Their wounds being dressed, and births as convenient as circumstances would admit, one in each boat, being made for our unfortunate ship-mates, we departed, giving the point on which we had landed the name of Escape Point, situated in latitude 55° 37′, longitude 228° 30′; and to a small opening about a league to the northward of this point, the name of Traitor’s Cove; these treacherous people having from thence made their first appearance.

From Lieutenant Swaine and Mr. Menzies I learned, that when these audacious people first approached them in the launch, they behaved with the greatest friendliness and good humour, offering their skins for sale, two of which were thrown into the launch; and in return they accepted any thing that was given them with apparent satisfaction. In consequence of the friendly intercourse that had taken place, and the avidity of the Indians in their commercial pursuits, they pressed on the boat to take hold of her, but on this being objected to, and the canoes obliged to keep at a respectable distance, some little discontent was observed to shew itself amongst them. This was attributed to their great eagerness for trading, until the canoe conducted by the old virago, who was the only female of the party, finding the launch would not comply with their solicitations to stop and trade, paddled across the bow of the boat with the intention of stopping her progress. On this occasion a musket was presented, with menaces that had the desired effect of making her drop a-stern; much against the will of the old shrew, whose designs were evidently not of the most friendly nature.

It was now deemed expedient to be vigilantly upon their guard, to have all their arms at hand, and to charge such as were unloaded; which was done in the most private way, lest any alarm should be given to the Indians, who were kept by signs at a proper distance, and only one canoe at a time allowed to come near enough to receive the presents that were offered; these were accepted with great civility, and the general tenor of their conduct betokened a friendly disposition. In this humour, to all appearance, they paddled hastily towards the yawl, seemingly in consequence of the invitation of their comrades, who were by this time assembled about our boat. Notwithstanding they were observed by the gentlemen in the launch to use uncommon exertions for the purpose of reaching the yawl, yet their efforts were at first attributed to diversion, or eagerness to arrive at a better market; until they observed their spears to be in motion, when they lost no time in coming to our relief.

The conduct of these people, so unlike that of any of the natives we had hitherto met with, inclines the mind to advert to some cause that could have produced a deportment so opposite to that which we had in general experienced. I was apprehensive at first, that during my absence from the boat some offence, however inadvertently, had been given; but on inquiry, nothing of the sort appeared to have happened; on the contrary, to the moment of my return from the shore, the Indians had spared no pains to impress us with the most favorable idea of their good intentions, by frequently uttering the word “Wacon,” signifying in their language, friendship. Their attack upon us should therefore appear, either to have been planned on their first seeing us, or determined upon in consequence of our temporizing conduct, which it is easy to imagine they would interpret into fear of their superior numbers. Whether their motives were rather to take revenge on us for injuries they may have sustained from other civilized visitors; or whether they conceived the valuable articles we possessed, were easily to be obtained by these means, is difficult to be determined.

It was manifestly evident that they had been acquainted with civilized commercial people, by the muskets and other European commodities in their possession; and when we considered the particular behaviour of the first man who visited us, we had reason to suspect that they had been ill-treated in their traffic with white men. This Indian, by means of signs and words too expressive to be mistaken, gave us clearly to understand, that they had reason to complain of one or more muskets that they had purchased, which burst into pieces on being fired; a fraud which I know has been practised too frequently, not only on this coast, but at the Sandwich, and other islands in the Pacific Ocean. These defects have not arisen from ignorance or mismanagement on the part of the Indians, but from the baseness of the metal and imperfect workmanship of the fire-arms. Of this dishonesty the chiefs of the Sandwich islands most loudly complain; and with great justice contend, that the produce of their country, being bartered for such articles, of the very best quality, whatever was received by them in exchange, ought to have been so likewise.

And I am extremely concerned to be compelled to state here, that many of the traders from the civilized world have not only pursued a line of conduct, diametrically opposite to the true principles of justice in their commercial dealings, but have fomented discords, and stirred up contentions, between the different tribes, in order to increase the demand for these destructive engines. They have been likewise eager to instruct the natives in the use of European arms of all descriptions; and have shewn by their own example, that they consider gain as the only object of pursuit; and whither this be acquired by fair and honourable means, or otherwise, so long as the advantage is secured, the manner how it is obtained seems to have been, with too many of them, but a very secondary consideration.

Under a conviction that repeated acts of such injustice had taken place, it was not unreasonable to suppose, that these people, who had experienced the like frauds, should be of opinion that our muskets, and the other arms that we carried for our protection, were of a superior quality to those they had procured from the traders. This, indeed, was proved by their praising ours and comparing them with those in their possession; and they might possibly from thence have been tempted to trespass on the laws of honesty, in order to acquire by force those really valuable commodities, which, by fair commercial dealings on their part, they could only procure in a defective state. It may also not be impossible, that they reconciled amongst themselves any acts of violence, which should become necessary in order to the attainment of them, as not being less offensive to justice, than the impositions that had been practised upon them by a people who, from every appearance, they might naturally conclude were of the same country and connections with us; and that they might thus consider themselves justified in using every artifice of retaliation, to effect their purpose.

I cannot however avoid observing, that through our want of caution they had, in this instance, sufficient address to succeed by their friendly professions, in nearly assembling all their force round us, though in the more early part of our voyage, we should have regarded their conduct with much suspicion; particularly their vociferous hallooing to each other, the haste with which the party came to us from the launch, their throwing overboard their dogs, and other hostile preparations that did not escape our notice, and would formerly have been deemed sufficient indications to have awakened our suspicions, and to have put us completely upon our guard against any unfriendly design they might have had in contemplation. But, having been so long accustomed to a series of tranquil intercourse with the several different tribes of Indians we had met with, our apprehensions of any molestation from them were totally done away; and that attentive wariness which had been the first object of my concern on coming amongst these rude nations, had latterly been much neglected. For although we had now more arms than we were provided with during the preceding summer, namely, two wall-pieces cut short for the purpose of being more handy in the boats, each of which was loaded with a dozen pistol balls, yet these as well as some of our muskets, had been so neglected by disuse, that they were unserviceable on this pressing emergency.

The good fortune we had experienced until now, had given me hopes, that an equal success would continue to the close of our researches; and that I should have the happiness of concluding our voyage, without being under the painful necessity of firing one shot in anger.

To what degree our firing did execution, was not ascertained. Some of the natives were seen to fall, as if killed or severely wounded; and great lamentations were heard after they had gained their retreat in the woods, from whence they shewed no disposition to renew their attack.

Our route was now uninterruptedly directed across an extensive bay, in which were several small openings, appearing to lead to the eastward and south-east. About three o’clock we reached a small island lying N. 9 W. from Escape point, at the distance of five miles. Our progress hither had been slow, occasioned by a fresh south-west wind, which however was attended with pleasant weather. The width of the southerly channel we thus pursued, had diminished from being nearly two, to scarcely one league; this was occasioned by an island lying about a mile from the eastern shore, half a league broad, and a league long, in a direction N. 60 E. and S. 60 W. This island I named Betton’s Island, after our wounded ship-mate; on its north-west side are several dangerous rocks, lying half a mile from its shore, and between it and the eastern shore are several smaller islands. We traversed this eastern passage, and took up our night’s abode near a conspicuous point on the eastern shore, which I named Point Higgins, after his Excellency Sen^r Higgins de Vallenar, the president of Chili. It is situated in latitude 55° 27½′, longitude 228° 25′, from whence a very remarkable projecting point on the opposite shore lies N. 78 W. distant four miles and a half; and two small islands, with some trees upon them, S. 40 W. half a league distant.

We started early the next morning, Tuesday the 13th, and were favored with pleasant weather, though with an adverse southerly wind. Immediately to the south of point Higgins, we passed an opening about two miles wide, and having advanced five miles in a direction S. 10 W. from that point, we reached another, that proved our situation to be in the north-east part of the extensive opening laid down in Sen^r Caamano’s chart, and distinguished by the name of Estrecho del Almirante Fuentes, y Entrada de Nostra Sen^ra del Carmin: and although the chart in this, as well as in the former instance, did not bear any very strong resemblance to the regions before us, yet it was sufficient to prove the identity of the place.

Point Higgins evidently formed the north-west point of the northern entrance into the Canal de Revilla Gigedo. Its south point, which I called point Vallenar, is the north-west extremity of the island Gravina, lying from point Higgins S. 8 W. at the distance of two miles, and forming the opening above alluded to. From point Vallenar lies a ledge of rocks, parts of which are visible only at low tide; this ledge nearly joins on to the above two small islands. The remarkable projecting point, noticed the preceding evening on the western shore, is that which I considered to be cape Caamano, and is a point of separation, dividing this arm of the sea into two principal branches; one being that which we had navigated to this station; the other, extending towards the north-west, seemed to be about four miles wide; and is I suppose the channel by which Mr. Brown of the Butterworth had found his way to the ocean, in the latitude of 56° 20′. The opposite shore of Estrecho de Fuentes, &c. that is, the supposed straits of de Fonte, to the southward of cape Caamano, was not more than seven or eight miles distant, but in the chart before alluded to, it is represented to be double that distance; and, on comparing the latitude of the points as therein expressed, with those resulting from my observations, they were found to differ also very materially.

We now entertained no doubt of finding a passage to the vessels by this route; though there was reason to expect we should have some extent of the exterior coast to encounter. The land to the north of the Canal de Revilla Gigedo was now proved to be, what had been before conjectured of it, an extensive island which we had nearly circumnavigated.

On this occasion I cannot avoid a repetition of my acknowledgments for the generous support we received from Sen^r Quadra, acting under the orders of the Conde de Revilla Gigedo, viceroy of New Spain; as also for his Excellency’s offers of whatever further assistance the countries under his authority might afford. In commemoration therefore of his excellency’s very kind attention, I have not only adopted the name of the channel after that nobleman, but have further distinguished the land to the north of it by the name of the Island of Revilla Gigedo.

Opposite to the eastern entrance into the channel is situated the Bocas de Quadra; and as I had always regretted that no opportunity was taken to commemorate the weighty obligations conferred by Major Behm on the officers and crews of the Resolution and Discovery, whilst at Kampschatka in the year 1779, by the introduction of that gentleman’s name in the charts of that voyage; I embraced this occasion to name the channel that separates the island of Revilla Gigedo from the continent, Behm’s Channel. These tributes are of a very insignificant nature when compared with the merit to which they are offered, and are only to be regarded as memorials to bear testimony of the zeal for advancing of science in these noble and distinguished characters, displayed by their friendly and liberal support of those who have been engaged in the several laborious undertakings projected by his Britannic Majesty, for the attainment of a true and perfect geographical knowledge of the earth.

Quitting this station, we continued along the west side of the island of Gravina; where a few rocks extended from the projecting points of its shores; these are nearly straight and compact, stretching S. 13 E. to a point where I observed the latitude to be 55° 10′; longitude 228° 28′. From this point, and for two leagues to the north of it, the width of the channel did not exceed a league and a half; but, as we advanced to the south, it again increased in its width to two and three leagues. The western shore appeared to be much broken, and the land to be more elevated than on the eastern side, which is of a moderate height, and is covered with wood.

From this station the eastern shore took a direction S. 30 E. for five miles, and then turned short to the eastward and north-east, appearing to divide the island of Gravina by a passage about two miles wide, in which were seen innumerable rocks and rocky islets; but the haziness of the weather did not permit our acquiring any competent knowledge of them, or of the shores forming the passage.

I was much inclined to pursue our way home by this channel, as in all probability it would have materially shortened our journey, and made it less laborious, by following a more direct line, and in smooth water; but as the main branch still led to the south, it was evidently the most proper for the vessels to navigate, and I was for that reason extremely anxious that it should undergo our examination. We therefore passed by this opening, and continued our route until near ten o’clock, when we rested for the night in a small cove near a point, situated in latitude 55° 0′ 30″, longitude 228° 40′. This point I named Point Davison, in compliment to Alexander Davison, Esq. the owner of our store-ship. Here, in consequence of a strong gale of wind from the south-west, attended with a heavy rain, we passed a very disagreeable night. By the dawn of day, Wednesday the 14th, the wind was less violent, and we departed from this unpleasant station; but the agitation of the sea much retarded our progress, until we passed a projecting point of land, which I distinguished by the name of Point Percy, when we derived some tolerable assistance from our sails for the first time during this excursion.

Point Percy is the western extremity of a long narrow cluster of low islands, lying S. 5 W. from point Davison, distant four miles. This cluster of islands and rocks seems to extend about five miles in an E. N. E. direction, nearly uniting to the eastern shore, which is much broken both on the north and south of these islands, and appears to form another division of the island of Gravina. From point Percy, the south point of this land, or isles of Gravina, which I named Cape Northumberland, in honour of that illustrious family, lies S. 65 E. at the distance of three leagues. Our course was directed thither through several clusters of dangerous rocks, lying in all directions a considerable distance from the shore, with very irregular soundings from four to thirty fathoms water; the weeds, however, which grow in their neighbourhood, are a sufficient warning in the day time to avoid those dangers.

About noon I landed on a small island lying to the south from cape Northumberland, where I observed the latitude to be 54° 51½′, longitude 228° 55½′; from this island, which is tolerably high, I gained a very distinct view of the surrounding rocks and breakers in all directions; the outermost of these towards the north-west lies N. 57 W. three miles and a half distant, those towards the south-west S. 67 W. four miles and a half; the southernmost, which were the furthest off, south six miles and a half; and the south-easternmost S. 50 E. five miles distant. The intermediate spaces were occupied by an immense number of rocks and breakers. From hence also the west point of entrance into this arm of the sea, called by Sen^r Caamano cape de Chacon, lies S. 67 W. eight or nine leagues, and cape Fox, E. by S. five leagues distant. About a mile to the north-eastward of us, on a high detached rock, were the remains of a large village, much more exposed to the inclemency of the weather than any residence of the natives I had before seen. Here was found a sepulchre of a peculiar character. It was a kind of vault, formed partly by the natural cavity of the rocks, and partly by the rude artists of the country. It was lined with boards, and contained some fragments of warlike implements, lying near a square box covered with mats and very curiously corded down. This we naturally conjectured contained the remains of some person of consequence, and it much excited the curiosity of some of our party; but as the further examination could not possibly have served any useful purpose, and might have given umbrage and pain to the friends of the deceased, should it be their custom to visit the repositories of their dead, I did not think it right that it should be disturbed. Not from motives of superstition as some were then pleased to suppose, but from a conviction, that it was highly proper to restrain our curiosity, when it tended to no good purpose whatever.

Our course was directed from hence across the south-east entrance of the Canal de Revilla Gigedo, with a favorable gale, though we were not more fortunate in being able to see round us, than when we passed the same region on the 4th; for immediately after noon the weather became extremely thick and hazy, with intervals of fog; and, towards the evening, a very heavy swell rolled from the S. W. and broke upon the shores with great violence, and with every other appearance of an approaching storm. Before dark, however, we reached the cove that had afforded us shelter under similar circumstances on the evening of the 3d; here we rested for the night, which was more temperate than we had reason to expect, and early on the following morning, Thursday the 15th, we again bent our way towards the vessels.

In the forenoon we reached that arm of the sea, whose examination had occupied our time from the 27th of the preceding to the 2d of this month. The distance from its entrance to its source is about 70 miles; which, in honour of the noble family of Bentinck, I named Portland’s Channel.

Our provisions being now so nearly exhausted, that we each dined this day on half a pint of peas, we were under the necessity of keeping on our oars, or under sail, all night; and about seven in the morning of Friday the 16th, we arrived on board, much to the satisfaction of all parties, as we had now been almost intirely confined to the boats for twenty-three days; in which time we had traversed upwards of 700 geographical miles, without having advanced our primary object of tracing the continental boundary, more than 20 leagues from the station of the vessels. Such were the perplexing, tedious, and laborious means by which alone we were enabled by degrees to trace the north-western limits of the American continent.

Our return was attended with much relief to the feelings of those on board, who had begun to suffer the greatest anxiety for our welfare; all of whom I had the satisfaction of finding perfectly well, and also that the several requisite services were completed, and that the weather had been sufficiently clear to admit of such astronomical observations being procured as were satisfactory for all our purposes.

By the timely assistance, and the great care that had been taken of the two wounded men, who were each valuable in their respective stations, they were both in a fair way of recovery; and as we had no object to detain us longer in this situation, I gave directions that every thing should be taken from the shore, and the vessels got in readiness to proceed down the inlet in the morning.

Mr. Johnstone had returned on the 30th of July. I learned from him, that on his quitting the ship he had been greatly retarded in his progress southward, by strong breezes that prevailed from that quarter, and that it was not until five in the evening of the 24th, that he and his party reached the northernmost opening, or bay, that we had passed by in the ship. They used their utmost endeavours to commence their survey on the continental shore at point Maskelyne; but the wind, attended with much sea, being adverse to this design, they entered this opening, in order to prosecute the further examination of it, until the weather might become more moderate. This engaged but little of their time, as it proved to be only a spacious bay, with a very shallow bank extending from its shores in all directions; along this they rowed with scarcely a sufficient depth of water for the boats, until they arrived at its north-east end, when the water suddenly deepened from five feet to two and five fathoms, and then as suddenly became shallow again. The bank, which was flat a long way from the shore quite round the bay, prevented their landing for the night, and obliged them to come to a grapnel and rest in the boats. The small opening in the shallow bank was the mouth of a little river, not exceeding in width, according to Mr. Johnstone’s estimation, a ship’s length; and from every appearance it seemed to be navigable only for canoes. Through this narrow entrance both the flood and ebb tide rushed with great force, but more particularly the latter; and though it is not more than four miles from the main arm, where the water is in all respects completely oceanic, that which was discharged here at the latter part of the ebb was perfectly fresh. The natives, who had visited the ships when in its vicinity, now paid their respects to the boats, and by repeating their visit in the night, occasioned some little alarm to the party. They had soon, however, the satisfaction of being convinced, that these Indians had no inhospitable design; for, on their being made sensible that their attendance was unseasonable, they immediately retired, after throwing some fish into one of the boats. On the Indians first meeting our party in the evening, they had been desired to procure them some fish; this they promised to do, and it is therefore charitable to suppose, that this was the object of their late visit.

In the morning of the 25th, being assisted by a strong ebb tide, they quitted this small river, which, with the other in port Essington observed in Mr. Whidbey’s late excursion, are the only two streams that had yet been discovered to the north of the river Columbia. These are too insignificant to be dignified by the name of rivers, and in truth scarcely deserve the appellation of rivulets; but should it hereafter be thought expedient, in support of the late prevailing conceits, and to establish the pretended discoveries of De Font, De Fonta, or De Fuentes, that one of these brooks should be considered as the Rio de los Reys leading into lake Bell, I must beg leave to premise, that neither of their entrances will be met with under the parallels of 43, 53, or 63 degrees of north latitude; these being the several different positions assigned to the entrance of this most famous Rio de los Reys, by speculative closet navigators.

Had any river or opening in the coast existed near either the 43d or 53d parallel of north latitude, the plausible system that has been erected would most likely have been deemed perfect; but, unfortunately for the great ingenuity of its hypothetical projectors, our practical labours have thus far made it totter; the position of the former stream, seen by Mr. Whidbey, falling into port Essington, being in latitude 54° 15′, that of the latter, in latitude 54° 59′; neither of which will correspond with any of the positions above mentioned.

The 25th was wholly employed by Mr. Johnstone’s party in reaching point Maskelyne, where the next morning they recommenced the survey of the continental shore from this point, pursuing it up a branch that took immediately a south-east direction from it, until late in the afternoon, when it was found to terminate in latitude 54° 20′, longitude 230° 21′. Its shores approach within about half a mile of the north-east part of port Essington. The south-west shores of this arm were nearly straight and compact, its general width from one and a half to two miles, excepting about six or seven miles within the entrance, where it was much narrower. From the head of this branch they returned along the north-east shore, and about dark entered a narrow opening, which, on the morning of the 27th, was found to stretch irregularly, first towards the north and N. W. near four miles, and then to the E. N. E. to latitude 54° 31½′, longitude 230° 16′. This branch, generally preserving the width of a mile, decreased at the end of its north-westerly course, by the projection of two points, to about 50 fathoms. The point extending from the western shore is a remarkably steep, rocky precipice, and at high water becomes an island. This had formerly been appropriated to the residence of a very numerous tribe of Indians, whose habitations were now fallen into decay, but it still retained the appearance of having been one of the most considerable and populous villages that Mr. Johnstone had yet seen. On their return its entrance was reached about noon; and the latitude observed there was 54° 24′, longitude 230° 10′.

As it was in this arm that Mr. Brown had found occasion to chastize the natives by cannonading their village, our party was much surprized that not a single inhabitant should have been seen, since those who had visited them on the 24th at night; this induced a more minute examination of the shores, and in the morning of the 28th, their attention was more particularly directed to those of that bay in which as they had understood the affray had happened. At the head of it was found a small projecting rock, on which were the remains of a few Indian habitations that appeared to have been very recently deserted. The holes where the shot had made their way through the houses, proved it to be the identical place described by Mr. Brown.

As they kept along the east or continental shore, they arrived in the main inlet by a narrow channel about half a mile long, and about two miles to the eastward of the place where they had entered it, making the intermediate land an island, a league long, and half a league broad. Behind this island was a small arm extending to the south-east, about two miles, and then to the north-east about twice that distance. The following day another small arm about three quarters of a mile wide was entered in latitude 54° 45′, longitude 229° 50½′; which, after stretching four miles to the N. N. E. divided into two branches, one taking a course of about a league N. by E. where it joined the main inlet, making the western land an island lying about N. N. E. and S. S. W. five miles in length, and half a league broad; the other extending irregularly towards the S. E. where, in latitude 54° 40½′, longitude 230° 13′, it terminated in low marshy land, like the generality of the others which we had explored.

The survey of this arm occupied the party the whole of the 29th, and on the 30th they entered the only opening remaining unexamined. Its S. W. point of entrance, off which lie some rocky islets, is situated in latitude 54° 51½′, longitude 229° 57′; this is about a mile in width, and terminated at the distance of about six miles from its entrance, in a direction N. 50 E.

Having thus accomplished the service they were sent to perform, Mr. Johnstone returned with his party towards the ships, where they arrived about nine in the evening, after experiencing, during this excursion, nearly an uninterrupted series of fair and pleasant weather.

Nothing of any note having occurred during my absence, I shall conclude this chapter by the insertion of the astronomical and nautical observations made at this place; and, in consequence of our having been so fortunate as to be able to obtain those that were essential for correcting our former survey, and for our future regulation in that respect, this branch obtained the name of Observatory Inlet; and the cove, where the vessels were stationed, that of Salmon Cove; from the abundance of that kind of fish that were there taken.

ASTRONOMICAL AND NAUTICAL OBSERVATIONS.

Longitude of the observatory, deduced from lunar distances,

The tide was observed to rise generally about 16 feet, and to be high water 1^h 8′ after the moon passed the meridian.

N. B. The longitude of the several stations between Restoration bay and Observatory inlet are corrected by the observations made at the latter place.

The route by which the vessels had advanced to Salmon cove, being infinitely better for them to pursue towards cape Caamano, than the intricate channel through which I had passed in the boats, we weighed with the intention of directing our course thus about six in the morning of Saturday the 17th; but having a strong gale from the southward, we made little progress windward.

On heaving up the best bower anchor, we found the cable nearly divided, and although this cable had been very little used, it was intirely worn out; under this circumstance, I thought we were very fortunate in saving the anchor, which, had the cable broke, must have fallen to a fathomless depth.

By eight in the evening, we had advanced about seven miles from Salmon cove, where we anchored for the night, near some rocks on the western shore, in 85 fathoms water, and steadied with a hawser to the trees on the shore. At five the following morning, Sunday the 18th, we again made sail with the tide in our favor, but with a strong unfavorable gale from the southward, with squally and misty weather; and, notwithstanding the wind was very powerful, the ship was so much affected by counter currents, that both staying and wearing were attended with many disappointments, and accomplished with great difficulty. These very unpleasant interruptions constantly attended our navigating this broken region. The Chatham drew three feet less water only than the Discovery; and it is a circumstance worthy of remark, that she but seldom felt, and never in an equal degree, the influence of these contending streams, by which we had been so continually annoyed. These were sometimes indicated by riplings on the surface of the water, but at others we felt their effect, though there were no visible signs of their existence.

As we passed the small rivulet that Mr. Johnstone had visited, we again observed the sea to be covered, to the depth of two or three feet, by a very light coloured muddy water, under which it evidently retained its oceanic colour and qualities.

The Indians, inhabiting the neighbourhood, approached us without fear, and seemed very friendly disposed, but no one of them would accompany us to the opposite shore; where, about three in the afternoon, on the flood tide making against us, we anchored in 45 fathoms water, and, as before, steadied by a hawser to the trees. During the afternoon the wind blew strong from the southward, and our time was employed in replacing our disabled cable with a new one. A want of wind, and the flood tide, prevented our weighing until nine the following morning, Monday the 19th, when, with the ebb tide, we again proceeded, but did not reach the entrance of Observatory inlet until two o’clock in the morning of Tuesday the 20th; a distance of not more than 13 leagues from Salmon cove.

The west point of Observatory inlet I distinguished by calling it Point Wales, after my much esteemed friend, Mr. Wales, of Christ’s Hospital; to whose kind instruction, in the early part of my life, I am indebted for that information which has enabled me to traverse and delineate these lonely regions.

Having again reached Chatham’s sound, we lay to until day-light, when our course was directed along the northern shore, to the southward of the islets and rocks that lie off cape Fox, passing between two and three miles of the north side of Dundas’s island, along which are a great number of rocks, W. by S. three miles from its north-west point, which is situated in latitude 54° 38′, and longitude 229° 20′, lies a smaller island, surrounded by many rocks; it appeared to be about two leagues in circuit, and is called in Sen^r Caamano’s chart, the Isle de Zayas. A favorable breeze now attended us; and, by our observations, the latitude at noon was 54° 44′, longitude 228° 59′. In this situation, the north side of Dundas’s island bore, by compass, from N. 80 E. to S. 82 E.; the island of Zayas, S. 55 E. to S. 73 E.; distant three or four leagues; the southernmost of the rocks, lying off cape Northumberland N. 89 W., three miles and a half; (this is a round lump of barren rock, very small, always above water, and which has some breakers lying at a little distance off its south-east side;) and the south-easternmost of those rocks N. 22 W. This last lies from the south rock N. 43 E., distant four miles and a half, and is a low, flat, double rock, always above water, and has much broken ground in its neighbourhood.

In the afternoon we passed the south-westernmost of the above rocks. These latter are two small rocks, above water, with much broken ground to the north and north-east of them, and in a direct line towards the south-easternmost rocks; they bear by compass, from the south rock, N. 44 W., five miles and a half distant. Between these and the eastern shore lie many dangerous rocks and breakers; but as we passed the south rock, I did not observe any danger to the north of it, between it and the other rocks; where the channel, to all appearance, seemed to be as free from impediments, as that which we were pursuing towards the western shore of Sen^r Caamano’s supposed straits of De Font. Having at this time a fresh gale from the S. W., with a very threatening unpleasant appearance of weather, which however gave us no other annoyance than a little rain, we were enabled to make great progress, and passed a small opening that, for a short distance, took a south-westerly direction. Its entrance is situated in latitude 54° 58½′, longitude 228° 22′; from whence, about a league N. by W., an extensive sound was passed, taking a south-westerly direction, and appearing to be divided into several branches, with some islands lying before its entrance. From this sound, which I have distinguished as Moira’s Sound, after the noble Earl of that title, the western shore takes a direction nearly north, and forms some bays; the largest of these, situated in latitude 55° 8′, has, in and before it, several small islets; the outermost is by far the largest; and as it, in many points of view, resembled a wedge, it obtained the name of Wedge Island; from its south point lies a ledge of dangerous rocks, on which the sea broke with great violence.

The land in the neighbourhood of Moira’s sound is high, and rather steep to the sea: but as we advanced beyond Wedge island, the straight and compact shores were more moderately elevated, and the interior country was composed of lofty, though uneven mountains, producing an almost impenetrable forest of pine trees, from the water side nearly to their summits; but by no means so high as those we had been accustomed to see in the more inland countries. About eight in the evening, still continuing along the western shore, we arrived off a projecting point, situated in latitude 55° 16½′, longitude 228° 18′, where, gaining soundings at the depth of 47 fathoms, we anchored for the night about a quarter of a mile from the shore.

The winds were light and variable the next morning, Wednesday the 21st, but having a flood tide in our favor we again proceeded, and soon afterwards we passed the entrance of another sound, which in extending to the southward divided into several branches; this I called Cholmondeley’s Sound. A small island lies to the north-west of its entrance, the east point of which lies N. 75 W., two miles and a half from the point, under which we had last anchored. Noon brought us by our observations to the latitude of 55° 22′, longitude 228° 21′. In this situation we had a more distinct view of the two great branches of this arm of the sea, than we had as yet obtained. That leading to the north-east, being the same we had passed through in the boats, we were in some measure acquainted with, but the other stretching to the north-west appeared of greater extent, and seemed to be the main branch of the inlet.

On reference to Sen^r Caamano’s chart, a very distant land on its north-eastern shore appeared to be that to which he had given his own name. We were now much higher up the inlet than that gentleman had been, and as the land in that neighbourhood did not appear to form any conspicuous point, and as I wished to commemorate his researches, I gave his name to the point that divided the two branches, calling it Cape Caamano, which, in our then situation, bore by compass N. 50 W. four or five miles distant, and is situated in latitude 55° 29′, longitude 228° 17′. The north-easternmost land before mentioned in the north-west branch, bore by compass N. 64 W., its remotest part on the opposite shore, N. 80 W., and its south point of entrance S. 74 W. To the southward of this point another opening of much apparent consequence extended in a parallel direction, and the shores in its neighbourhood seemed to be greatly divided.

The weather being calm, a good opportunity was afforded to a party of the natives from the western shore to pay us a visit. They approached us with little hesitation, and one amongst their number, who bore the character of an inferior chief, requested our permission to be admitted on board. On this being granted, he gave us to understand that he was acquainted with most of the traders on the coast, and said that he belonged to a powerful chief whose name was O-non-nis-toy, the U-en-Smoket, of U-en-Stikin, and pointed out his residence to be up the north-west branch. He desired we would fire a gun, on the report of which this great chief would visit us, with an abundance of salmon and sea otter skins to barter for our commodities. His request being complied with, he desired to know if I intended to go up the north-west branch, and on being answered in the affirmative he appeared to be much pleased; but on being told that we should first visit that to the north-east, the intelligence seemed not only to produce in him a great disappointment, but to incur his disapprobation. He endeavoured to make us understand, that in those regions we should neither meet with chiefs, skins, nor any thing worthy our research; and that the people who resided in that quarter were great thieves, and very bad men.

Not being more than a dozen miles at this time from Escape point, the greatest attention was paid to the countenances and deportment of these strangers, using our endeavours to recognize in them any of the treacherous tribe by whom we had so recently been attacked; but as we did not discover a face that we had ever seen before, we were led to believe there might be some truth in the character now given of those resident up the north-east branch. I had, however, long been convinced, that, consistently with prudence, little reliance ought to be placed in such representations; for had our reception by those people been the very opposite to what we had experienced, this man’s report would most probably have been the same, as he was not of their society. All the tribes of Indians we had lately met, had used every endeavour and artifice to tempt us to their habitations, but their motives for such pressing solicitations we were not able to discover.

About two o’clock a breeze sprang up from the south-west, with which our course was so directed as to pass to the north-east of cape Caamano, along the western shore of the north-eastern branch; which when our visitors perceived, they declined attending us any further; and as the chief on his coming on board had given me the skin of a sea otter recently killed, I made him an ample return, and added a piece of blue cloth, which I desired he would present in my name to his chief Ononnistoy. This he undertook to perform with much apparent pleasure, and on my promising to visit their neighbourhood, he took leave of us, seemingly well satisfied with his reception.

On this occasion I was much disposed to proceed up the north-west branch, until we should meet a convenient stopping place for the vessels; but as there was yet a probability that the unexplored openings on the western shore might communicate with that branch, or possibly with the ocean further to the north, I was induced to seek an anchorage nearly midway between the points in question. For this purpose the Chatham was sent a-head, and in the evening she made the signal for having discovered an eligible port on the western shore, in which she shortly anchored; but the wind failing us, we were compelled to anchor at eight in the evening on the outside in 54 fathoms water, and steadied as before with a hawser to the trees; having in our way, about two leagues to the north of cape Caamano, passed a tolerably deep bay, with some islands in it, which I did not consider sufficiently centrical for our purpose.

Thursday the 22d. The port was found to be formed by a small, though very convenient bay, with several islets lying before it, which secured it from the wind in all directions; and being situated and circumstanced much to my wishes, we ran in and moored in sixteen fathoms water, sandy bottom, about a cable’s length from the western shore. The south point of the port bore by compass S. 60 E., the bottom N. 52 W., and the north point N. 3 W.; the intermediate space, between the north and the south point of the port, was chiefly occupied by islets and rocks, admitting of channels in various directions. The southernmost of these islets, having a safe passage all round it, bore by compass N. 48 E.

Great plenty of excellent water was found close at hand. The shores continuing still of a moderate height, and being covered with pine trees, berry bushes, and other shrubs, rendered this as eligible a situation as we were likely to obtain.

The boats were immediately prepared for two long excursions; Mr. Whidbey in the Discovery’s large cutter, accompanied by Lieutenant Baker in the launch, with supplies for a fortnight, were to proceed and finish the survey of those branches, which I had been obliged to decline towards the conclusion of my last excursion; and afterwards, to continue their researches along the continental shore, so long as their provisions might last, or till it led them back to the station of the vessels.

To Mr. Johnstone, with the two cutters, as usual, the other expedition was entrusted with provisions for ten days. He was to return to cape Caamano, for the purpose of examining the starboard shore of the north-west branch, until he should find it communicate with the ocean. With these directions both parties proceeded early in the morning of Friday the 23d.

The situation of this port was nearly opposite to, and about four miles distant from, Traitor’s cove; but as we now saw no smoke or other sign of inhabitants, I concluded that the inhospitable natives had abandoned that station.

In the forenoon, the Indians who had attended us on the 21st visited us again, though without any addition to their party. The man, to whose care I had consigned the present for his chief, told me, that in a day or two Ononnistoy would pay us a visit. He said the chief was at some distance, and that it would require time to prepare for his journey; in the mean while he solicited a further present for him, as a testimony of our friendly intentions. With no small difficulty he made me understand that molasses would be very acceptable to Ononnistoy, with some bread to eat with it. Accordingly, these, with such other articles as I considered the occasion demanded, were entrusted to his care, and he departed the next morning.

The weather, since the evening of the 21st, had been very rainy, attended with strong winds and squalls from the S. E., which continued until the morning of Sunday the 25th; when the sky being serene and clear, I was enabled to procure some good observations for ascertaining the situation of this place, and found them to agree very nearly with my calculation in our late boat excursion. The southernmost island noticed off this port having then been a particularly marked point.

About midnight we were disturbed by the singing of a party of the natives, as they entered the harbour; from whose noise we were at first led to suppose them a very numerous tribe, but, on a nearer approach, it proved to be only one canoe containing seventeen persons; who, after paddling round the vessels with their usual formalities, landed not far from the ship, where they remained singing until day-break. It appeared that much time had been bestowed on the decoration of their persons; their faces were painted after various fancies, and their hair was powdered with very delicate white down of young sea fowls. With the same ceremony they again approached the ship, and then came along side with the greatest confidence.

The chief of the party, named Kanaut, requested permission to come on board, which being immediately granted, he presented me with a sea otter skin, and on my making him a proper acknowledgment, he desired that a traffic with his people and ours might be entered into; in the conduct of which they proved themselves to be keen traders, though, in their praise it must be acknowledged, they observed the strictest honesty and propriety in the whole of their dealings, which were accompanied by a cheerful, sociable, and friendly disposition. These good folks continued in our neighbourhood until Wednesday the 28th; when, having disposed of such articles as they were inclined to part with, they took a most friendly leave, seemingly much pleased with their visit, and speaking in the highest terms of Ononnistoy; who they acknowledged as their chief, and the head of a very numerous tribe.

In the afternoon Mr. Whidbey and his party returned, after having traced the boundaries of the continental shore, from the place where I had quitted it to this station. The several arms that I had left unexamined were found to be of little extent.

The party did not pursue the exact route by which I had proceeded to the first of these arms, but by mistake entered the fourth opening, which I had passed by on the evening of the 11th, and found that it communicated with the third opening, making the intermediate land, as I then suspected it to be, an island, which, after one of the gentlemen of the Chatham, obtained the name of Bell’s Island; it was about two leagues long, lying in a north-east and south-west direction. This led to the examination of the third opening, which, in latitude 55° 57′, longitude 228° 42′, was found to terminate in the usual manner; and from its head, nearly in a south direction four miles, it communicated with the channel I had pursued; having in that route passed the fifth opening, and another leading to the north behind Bell’s island. The shores of this channel, in some places not more than a quarter of a mile apart, were high, steep, and rocky, yet covered with pine trees.

Rainy unpleasant weather, attended with adverse winds, rendered their progress so slow, that it was seven in the morning of the 25th before they reached the first unexamined opening, which after the surgeon of the Chatham I called Walker’s Cove; this was found to take a direction N. 60 E. about two leagues, where it terminated in low marshy land, extending a small distance from the high steep rocky barren precipices of the surrounding shores. On returning, they passed between some small rocky islets, lying off its northern point of entrance; on these were produced some groveling pine trees, and about their shores were a great number of sea otters. The next object of their pursuit was what I had considered as a bay, lying from Walker’s cove N. 27 W., distant about five miles. This was found to be about one mile and a half deep, and a mile wide; the shores, for the most part, were moderately elevated, covered with wood, and terminated at the bottom by a sandy beach; from hence in their way to point Fitz-Gibbon three other small bays or coves were examined.

Although I was perfectly satisfied with my own examination of Burrough’s bay, yet from the muddy appearance and freshness of its water, I was induced to direct this further examination, which however discovered no new circumstance, excepting the addition of a third small brook flowing in from its north-west side.

These researches were accomplished on the 26th; on their way that morning the party had stopped to breakfast at point Fitz-Gibbon, where they had met some Indians, who were extremely circumspect and cautious in their behaviour.

One man by himself invited them at first to the shore, whence, on seeing the boat stop, he retired; and presently four canoes, containing about ten of the natives, made their appearance from a small cove, a little to the southward of the point; one of these only advanced within musket shot of the party, singing songs, and making speeches, but they could not be prevailed upon to approach nearer, though every sign of friendship that could be thought of was made use of for this purpose; and when the boats were preparing for their departure, these good folks retired into the cove from whence they had first appeared. As the boats proceeded the canoes were soon again observed to follow, having now increased their party to fifteen or twenty persons. They still continued to observe the same distant deportment, and on seeing the boats return they crossed over, and landed on a point before the boats on the northern shore. Notwithstanding that looking glasses, and some other trifling presents, were fastened to pieces of wood, and dropped a-stern for them whilst they continued to follow the boats, and that these were all carefully picked up by them, they could not be induced to lessen the respectful distance they had at first observed.

When the boats came near to the point on which these people had landed, all of them excepting three who remained behind, seemingly for the purpose of guarding their arms, and one old man, who was seated on the rocks at some distance, advanced unarmed to the water side, each bearing a green bough, and singing and dancing in a most savage and uncouth manner. The boats remained stationary whilst these rude performances were exhibiting; after which one of the natives made signs that two persons should land from the boats, and immediately they laid down on the rocks a long twist of white wool, which was considered as an additional token of peace; it was, however, deemed most prudent to decline their invitations, and having thrown them a few trivial articles more, the boats pursued the survey of the continental shore, and the canoes returned to the place from whence they had departed.

The behaviour of these people was so totally unlike the conduct of any we had yet met with, as to induce an opinion in Mr. Whidbey and his party, that these Indians were a part of that tribe who had attacked the yawl, and that the very extraordinary exhibition they had made, was a supplication for mercy and forgiveness. Some of the gentlemen then present having accompanied me in my last boat excursion, were perfectly satisfied that some of these Indians were amongst the number of those treacherous people.

About seven in the morning of the 27th, they entered the small arm above mentioned to the westward of the third unexplored opening. This was found to be about half a mile wide, stretching in a northerly direction about a league, and there terminating in latitude 55° 57′, longitude 228° 36′, by a sandy beach, over which several streams of fresh water rushed with great impetuosity. The land composing the upper part of this small arm was of a moderate height, and thickly wooded. Here they met another small party of the natives, consisting of seven men only, who seemed to be prepared to oppose their landing. Their canoes were lodged close to them, near a miserable small hut. After they had put on their war garments, they advanced to meet the boat; one of them was armed with a musket, and another with a pistol; these they cocked, whilst the other five, each provided with a bow, and plenty of arrows, had them in readiness for immediate service. Beside these, an elderly person made his appearance at a little distance; he was without any weapon, or his war garment, and whilst he made long speeches, he held in one hand the skin of a bird, and with the other plucked out the young feathers and down, which at the conclusion of certain sentences in his speech, he blew into the air. These actions being considered by Mr. Whidbey and his party as overtures of peace, they threw some spoons, and other trivial articles to the orator, and gave him to understand that they wanted something to eat. This had the desired effect; for this pacific individual ordered those who were armed to retire, and some salmon was soon brought. He now directed the boats to come to the rocks, where he delivered them the fish, and he received in return such articles as appeared to be highly acceptable, still continuing to blow the down into the air, as he plucked it from the bird’s skin.

This custom I had before noticed with the inhabitants of this coast, but had never so good an opportunity of seeing it practised, nor have I a clear idea to what particular end it is directed; but as it has generally been accompanied by pacific measures, it is fair to presume that it is intended to display an hospitable disposition.

To have landed amongst these people, who appeared to be so watchful and to keep themselves so readily on their defence, could have answered no good purpose; nor would it have been prudent, for the sake of a more minute, though perhaps not less equivocal, inquiry into these mysterious ceremonies, to have attempted a further acquaintance, at the risk of any misunderstanding. For these reasons, therefore, they were left in quiet possession of their dreary rocks; every inch of which they seemed disposed to have disputed, had our people persisted contrary to their inclinations; particularly as it is by no means improbable, that this party had either been concerned in the attack upon the yawl, or that they had received intelligence of that affray from some of their neighbours.

In the forenoon the fifth opening was examined. Its entrance is situated S. 56 W., about a league from that which they had just quitted. It was found to be not more than half a mile wide, extending in a northerly direction about a league, and then terminating in like manner with the various other branches before described.

The sixth unexplored opening employed the afternoon. This was found to be in general somewhat less than a mile in width; in it were several sunken rocks. It extended from its entrance N. 50 W., about four miles, and there terminated as above, in latitude 55° 51′, longitude 228° 19′. In a bay on the north-east shore, the remains of an Indian village, that had been formerly of considerable extent, was observed; but it was intirely over-run with weeds, shrubs, and small trees; amongst which the small-fruited crab was in the greatest abundance, and its fruit was larger and better tasted than any before found.

The weather during the greater part of this excursion having been rainy and very unpleasant, and still continuing so, the party were detained in this arm until the forenoon of the 28th, when they proceeded to the last opening I had left unexamined; and which, I had imagined, would be found either to have communication with the great north-west branch, or to extend far to the northward; but it was now proved that I had been mistaken in both these conjectures, as the opening formed only a spacious bay. Its entrance was nearly a league wide, lying N. 8 W. and S. 8 E.; its northernmost point is situated in latitude 55° 48′, longitude 228° 25′, from whence the north side of the bay takes nearly a west direction about a league and a half, forming in that space three or four coves, and rounding somewhat irregularly to its southern point of entrance; within which is an island about a league in circuit, not admitting of any navigable channel between it and the south side of the bay. The shores bounding this bay are very moderately elevated, thickly wooded, and terminating in a sandy beach nearly all round. The interior country was not very high, particularly in the western quarter, where a very low woodland country extended nearly as far as the eye could reach. This low land, at the distance I had passed in the boats, had put on an appearance that induced me to believe it to be much broken and divided.

The examination of this bay concluded the service the party had been sent to perform, and they returned on board, keeping along the continental shore as before stated.

A short interval of fair weather, with which we had but seldom been indulged, enabled me in the forenoon of Friday the 30th to make some further celestial observations; and in the afternoon we were visited by a party of the natives consisting of twenty-five persons, who came in three canoes from the southward. These were all intire strangers to us, and were conducted by two chiefs, neither of whom was the famous Ononnistoy. They approached us with the same formalities as those observed by our former visitors, and if any just conclusions were to be drawn from their deportment on coming on board, we had reason to think them people of some importance; and I was consequently induced to compliment them with presents suitable to their apparent rank. These they accepted with indifference, and appeared to be more engaged in common conversation with each other, than in noticing us or any of the surrounding objects. Early in the evening they retired to the shore, where they formed a temporary habitation; and the next morning, Saturday the 31st, we were again favored with their company. They now appeared to be more sociably inclined, and each presented me, in return for the civilities they received the preceding evening, a sea otter skin, and desired that a commercial intercourse might be established between us, as they had brought many things for barter, amongst which was an abundance of the finest fresh salmon we had seen in the course of the season. Of these a number sufficient for every one in both vessels were immediately purchased.

The chiefs remained on board the greater part of the forenoon, and became very sociable. One of them had a very open cheerful countenance, and was the finest figure of a man, and the stoutest made Indian, I had yet seen on this coast. He had many scars about him, which indicated his having been a great warrior. Bread and molasses were the greatest treat we could give these people; the chiefs eat heartily of it, and distributed some amongst their particular friends in the canoes alongside. In return for this delicious repast, they took much pains to recommend to us some of their whale oil, which stunk most intolerably. This was brought into the cabin in a bladder, out of which a spoonful was very carefully poured by the chief, who extolled its superior qualities, and gave us to understand that, as a delicacy, it was quite equal to our treacle; and it was not without much difficulty, that I was able to excuse myself from partaking of their nauseous meal, which they seemed to relish in the highest degree; and finished it with a large glass of rum, a luxury to which they seemed by no means strangers.

In the afternoon, as these new friends of ours were visiting the Chatham, they were suddenly surprized by the arrival of a large canoe full of men singing a song, and keeping time by the regularity of their paddling. Their course, directed towards the Discovery, seemed not to correspond with the wishes of the former party, who immediately equipped themselves in their war garments, and their spears, which had lain in the bottom of their canoes, were now got to hand, and couched in an inclined position, with their points towards the new comers. Thus prepared they advanced slowly to meet them, making most violent and passionate speeches, which were answered in a similar tone of voice by some persons who stood up in the large canoe. They continued to paddle with much regularity towards each other; yet those who had now entered the harbour, did not appear to be so hostilely inclined as those who had already occupied the port; as the lances of the former, though in readiness for action, were not disposed in a way so menacing. On a nearer approach they rested on their paddles, and entered into a parley; and we could then observe, that all those who stood up in the large canoe were armed with pistols or blunderbusses, very bright, and in good order. Their conversation seeming to have ended in a pacific way, the opposing party returned with the new comers, who, on passing by the Chatham, laid down their arms; but just as they came alongside the Discovery, one of the chiefs who had been on board, drew, with much haste, from within the breast of his war garment, a large iron dagger, and appeared to be extremely irritated by something that had been said by those in the large canoe, who again with great coolness took up their pistols and blunderbusses; but on an explanation appearing to be made, their arms were again returned to their proper places; their pistols and ammunition were carefully wrapped up, and a perfect reconciliation seemed to have taken place on both sides.

The chief of the large canoe requested permission to be admitted into the ship, which being assented to, he came on board accompanied by a man, who, though not assuming the character of a chief, appeared to be a person of no small consequence, as the chief seemed to appeal to him on all occasions, and his countenance bespoke much penetration.

After a few words and signs had passed in assurance of peace, and of a good understanding between us, this minister, for in that capacity this man seemed to act, gave us to understand, that the chief who now visited us, was the great Ononnistoy, and his intelligence was almost immediately confirmed by Kanaut (the messenger before mentioned) who arrived in a small canoe, and was received by the tribe in other canoes with similar ceremonies, but in a manner not quite so fierce and hostile.

Ononnistoy did not observe the distant formalities shewn by the chiefs of the other party, but accepted with great cheerfulness such presents as I considered it proper to make on this occasion. These seemed to afford him much satisfaction, and to gain the approbation and applause of all his party. The chiefs of the other tribe came on board at the same time; to these also some articles were given, which they now received with much pleasure, and appeared to be in very good humour, not only with us, but with Ononnistoy and all his attendants.

Towards the close of the day this great chief, with two or three of his suit, lamented that they had no habitation on shore, and requested for that reason permission to sleep on board. This was granted, and when it was dark some fire-works were exhibited for their amusement; but, excepting the water rockets, they were viewed with little attention.

From our previous acquaintance with Kanaut, I was not at a loss to know in what manner to provide some refreshment for Ononnistoy; bread and molasses, with rum and wine, were set before him, to which was added some of their own dried fish; on which he and his whole party seemed to regale very heartily, and then retired to rest with as much composure, I believe, as if they had been in their own habitations.

Early the next morning, Sunday, September September 1793 the 1st, Ononnistoy with his friends joined the party on shore, where they were very busily employed in adorning their persons in the manner already described; which being accomplished by breakfast time, he, attended by all the other chiefs, came off in his large canoe, and, according to their custom, sang while they paddled round the vessels. This ceremony being ended, they came alongside the Discovery, and exhibited a kind of entertainment that I had not before witnessed. It consisted of singing, and of a display of the most rude and extravagant gestures that can be imagined. The principal parts were performed by the chiefs, each in succession becoming the leader or hero of the song; at the several pauses of which, I was presented by the exhibiting chief with a sea otter skin; and the Indian spectators seemed to regret the performance was at an end, from which they had apparently derived great amusement.

There were five chiefs belonging to the associated parties; these, after they had played their parts, desired to be admitted on board. Ononnistoy gave us to understand, that as peace and good-will were now completely established, he wished that trading might be allowed; this taking place accordingly, several sea otter skins of a middling quality, a great number of salmon, and various trivial articles, were purchased. Fire-arms and ammunition were at first demanded in exchange, but on finding that these were positively and uniformly with-held, they very soon became reconciled to the refusal, and entered into a brisk traffic for blue cloth, files, and tin kettles, which they preferred next to fire-arms, in exchange for their sea otter skins; but their fish and other less valuable articles, were readily parted with, for pewter spoons, looking glasses, beads, and other trinkets. The party of Indians thus assembled amounted to about sixty persons, who conducted themselves with strict honesty and much propriety.

Amongst these visitors was one whose character we could not define. This was a young man, who seemed to differ very materially from the rest in his general deportment. He was dressed in a blue jacket and trowsers, and seemed to be perfectly at his ease, particularly with respect to the pockets, which, to persons unacquainted with their use, generally produce embarrassment; he was very fond of segars, which he smoked in the Spanish fashion, discharging the fumes through his nostrils, and also of snuff; and we had great reason to believe that he had made free with a snuff-box that was in the cabin, and which was the only thing missed during the visit of these people. All our different kinds of provisions were perfectly familiar to this young man, who ate and drank of every thing that was given to him for this purpose, without the least hesitation, and with the greatest glee and appetite. His person had nothing of the European character in it, but from attentively observing his countenance, we were inclined to suppose him a native of New Spain, who might possibly have deserted from some of the Spanish vessels employed in the examination of this coast. He was more intelligent than any of the Indians we had found on these shores, particularly in respect of the different channels leading through this divided country. From his information we clearly understood, that the opening to the north-west of cape Caamano would be found to have some branches on its northern shore terminating at some distance in land; and although it was a great distance from hence, yet that branch led to the ocean. His fondness for tobacco favored the conjecture of his not being a native of these shores, as he was the first who had sought after this luxury. Under the idea of his having deserted from the Spaniards, we interrogated him in their language, but to no effect; and if we were right in this conjecture, he conducted himself in a manner so as to evade our questions, and to avoid detection; for he did not betray the least knowledge of the Spanish tongue. This, however, he might have artfully concealed, lest he should have been taken from his present way of life, which he undoubtedly preferred, as he declined my offer of taking him with me on board the Discovery.

Monday the 2d. The period for Mr. Johnstone’s return began now to draw near, and that we might on his arrival be immediately ready to follow up his researches, the brewing utensils and all other matters were taken from the shore, the ship was warped out of the port, and anchored near its southern point of entrance, in 25 fathoms water, soft bottom.

This port I named after Mr. John Stewart, one of the mates, Port Stewart, in compliment of that gentleman’s having made a very good survey of it; its south point of entrance is situated in latitude 55° 38′ 15″, longitude 228° 24′, with 28° 30′ eastwardly variation. It is formed, as before stated, by a bay in the land, having several islets and rocks lying before it; within these, from the south point of its entrance, it takes a course N. 27 W. about half a league in length, and three quarters of a mile in breadth. In this space it affords good and secure anchorage, from four to eighteen fathoms water, good holding ground. The communication with the shore is easy, and wood and water may be conveniently procured in the greatest abundance. Towards its head are two very snug coves or basons, one of which is a continuation of the port, the other formed by an indent in the land; the soundings are from six to nine fathoms, having a navigable though narrow channel into them. It has been stated, that the islets lying before this harbour admit of passages in several directions; these, however, are not very safe, in consequence of several rocks between and about their shores, visible only at low tide. The best passage into port Stewart, through which we warped, is between the southernmost islet and the main land; this is perfectly free from any obstruction, with soundings from four fathoms at the sides to eleven fathoms in the middle. These are the most material circumstances respecting this harbour, which, from its interior situation, and want of inhabitants, does not seem likely to be much frequented; but should further information be required, reference may be had to the chart, which I believe will be found liable to little if any error.

The Indians having observed our motions, inquired if it were not our intention to visit their place of abode; and as I thought it was probable their residence might lie in our route, I replied in the affirmative: this appeared to give them great pleasure; and having disposed of most of their saleable cargo, they took their leave, and returned to the southward.

The morning of Wednesday the 4th brought no intelligence of our boats, and having understood from Ononnistoy and his party, that there were many inhabitants in the regions they were directed to explore, who, like them, were well provided with fire-arms, I began to be very solicitous for their return. About noon, however, my anxiety was relieved, by the safe return of Mr. Johnstone and all his party. He had not actually discovered a passage to the ocean by the way he had pursued, but had brought back such evidences as left little doubt that the channel he had navigated would ultimately be found to communicate with it.

The day on which they quitted the vessels was employed in reaching cape Caamano, which they effected by about dark, having been greatly impeded by a strong southerly gale, attended with a heavy sea, and a great fall of rain. In addition to these delays, they were further retarded by carrying away one of the boat’s masts, and getting most of their things wet. Their time was occupied until eight the next morning (25th August), in putting these matters to rights, when they proceeded in the examination of this channel, keeping the starboard or continental shore on board. This, from cape Caamano, was found to take first a direction N. 55 W. near two leagues, then N. 23 E. to a point which, after one of the gentlemen of the Chatham, who generally attended Mr. Johnstone, I named Point Le Mesurier, and is situated in latitude 55° 46′, longitude 227° 58′. The opposite shore, which from the haziness of the weather was but indistinctly seen, seemed to take a more westwardly direction, increasing the width of the channel; which from cape Caamano, S. 58 W. to its opposite point of entrance, named by me Point Grindall, (after Captain Grindall, of the navy) is only from four to five miles across; though at this station it was seven miles to the opposite shore. This point projects from the main land to the westward, with some rocks and breakers extending about a mile from it. Four or five miles to the south-east of it is a small bay, with some islets and rocks lying off it; half way between it and cape Caamano our party passed a small island lying near the same shore, admitting of a passage between it and the main land.

From hence another branch of this inlet, which I called after his Royal Highness Prince Ernest, Prince Ernest’s Sound, presented itself, leading to the north-eastward, and is nearly as spacious as that they were pursuing; its opposite point of entrance, which I called Point Onslow, lies from point Le Mesurier, N. 30 W. five miles and a half distant. This, because it led along the continental shore, became the object of their immediate attention, and was the occasion of their quitting at that time the other channel.

As they advanced in this pursuit, they found the general direction of the continental shore, from point Le Mesurier, N. 29 E. for about four leagues, indented with several bays of different capacity, and along it were some scattered rocks and rocky islets. At this station, the opposite side of Prince Ernest’s sound approaches within two miles of the continent, and from its entrance at point Onslow it appeared to be much broken, with several islets about its shores. Here the shores of the main land inclined a little more to the eastward. In the above direction, about a league and a half from thence, is situated the south point of an island, in front of a bay on the continental shore, in which are some islets and rocks. This island extends N. 25 W. five miles, and is about half a league in breadth; its western side is much broken, and about its shores are several islets; notwithstanding these it admits of a tolerably good channel between it and the shore of the continent, which from the north point of the above bay takes a direction N. 13 W. two leagues and a half, to a point which I named Point Warde, situated by observation in latitude 56° 9′, longitude 228° 10½′. The western shore was seen to be very irregular in its direction, and much broken by water, especially in that part opposite to the island, where the sound was nearly six miles across; but here, its shores, which were in general moderately elevated, and were covered with the usual productions, approached within a mile of each other.

From point Warde the continental shore took a sharp turn N. 60 E. four miles, to a point where this arm divided into two branches. That which took an easterly direction claimed their first attention, and was found to extend about three leagues; and then winding to the N. E. by N. two miles further, terminated in the usual way, in latitude 56° 14½′, longitude 228° 37′. Their examination of this branch, which I named Bradfield Channel, occupied their time until noon of the 26th; the progress of the party having been much impeded by adverse winds, and very unpleasant weather.

On setting out in the morning, one canoe with three Indians, (the first inhabitants seen during this excursion) accompanied them some distance; but on finding our party was bound up Bradfield channel, the natives made signs that it was closed, and that they would wait the return of the boats in a certain situation where, without any increase of numbers, they were found in the evening.

In the morning of the 27th they continued their researches in rainy unpleasant weather up the other branch. This was not more than three quarters of a mile wide, with a small island and two islets in its entrance; it extended nearly in a N. N. W. direction, three leagues, to a point where the latitude was observed to be 56° 20′, the longitude 228° 11′; here this branch was again divided, one division stretching about N. 10 E., the other taking a westerly direction. The former, about half a mile wide, terminated as usual at the distance of about a league from its entrance, near which, and likewise before the entrance of the westerly branch, lie several rocks and small islets. Here their Indian attendants, after receiving some trivial presents, took their leave. This westerly branch was not more than a quarter of a mile in width, and extended irregularly to the north-west and south-west, forming a passage about a league long to a point I called Point Madan; where it communicated with a more spacious channel, that took two directions, one to the S. S. W. through a broken insulated region; the other, stretching to the N. 28 W., was nearly two miles in width.

Notwithstanding that the weather during the following day was extremely inclement, the party continued their examination, and found the land that formed their western shore to terminate in its northern direction about sixteen miles from point Madan, by a very conspicuous point, in latitude 56° 34′, longitude 227° 48′. To this point I gave the name of Point Highfield; and although through the badness of the weather a distinct view of their situation was not obtained, yet it was manifest that they had now arrived at the confluence of three extensive branches. The most spacious stretched to the westward; that which they had navigated was the least, and the line of the continental shore appeared still to continue in the above direction up the third branch, whose east point of entrance I distinguished by the name of Point Rothsay. Towards this point their course was directed, but they were soon stopped by shallow water, which obliged them to quit the shores of the continent, and to proceed along the edge of the shoal in nearly a west direction; and having traced it about a league, in six to nine feet water, it was found to be connected with the north-east side of an island, lying from point Highfield N. 63 W., distant four miles. To the south of the shoal and in its immediate vicinity, were four small islands, and two or three islets; one of the former was upon the shoal, and the others at the distance of a league and an half, extended to the south and south-west of it. Beside these, three small islands were lying to the north of the shoal, and the land in that neighbourhood had the appearance of dividing the third branch into two or three arms, the easternmost of which being the object of their pursuit, they were in expectation of finding a passage towards it to the westward of this island, which in a direction N. N. E. and S. S. W. is about two miles in length, and one mile in breadth. They were however disappointed, as they found the shoal to extend from the north-west part of this island, and to unite with the land, forming the western point of entrance into the third branch, which I called Point Blaquiere, in latitude 56° 39′, longitude 227° 40′. This land being thus connected by this shoal to the opposite shore near point Rothsay, was considered to be a continuation of the continent. The depth of water along the edge of the shoal was from two immediately to ten fathoms at high water; many unsuccessful attempts were made at this time to pass it, but the depth decreased too fast to venture further, and as the tide fell, patches of dry sand became visible in all directions.

This investigation employed most part of the day, during which they were accompanied by nine of the natives, in three small canoes, who behaved with great civility, and departed in the evening.

The next morning, the 29th, the party quitted this shallow navigation, and continued along what was then considered to be the continent; which was now found to take first a direction S. 48 W. for two leagues and an half, to a point named by me Point Howe. These shores were indented in small bays, with some islets lying at a little distance from the land. From this point, the nearest part of the opposite or southern shore of this western branch, which shore seemed to lie nearly in an east and west direction from point Highfield, bore south about a league distant; and to the westward of a point on this shore, which I called Point Craig, lying from point Howe S. 55 E., distant two leagues, the shore appeared to be firm and compact; but to the eastward of point Craig it seemed to be much broken, and divided by water. From hence the supposed continental shore took a rounding westerly direction, to a point in latitude 56° 36′, longitude 227° 18′; this was called by me Point Alexander, forming the east point of an opening about a mile wide, with a rock nearly in the centre of its entrance; this opening took a direction N. 7 W. about two leagues; both shores were nearly straight and compact, and were about half a mile asunder as far as to this extent; but here they became much broken, and the supposed continental shore, extending N. 20 E., formed a narrow arm about a league and a half long, which was terminated in latitude 56° 47′, longitude 227° 21′, by shoal water, at the edge of a low plain producing very long grass, behind which rose lofty barren mountains, covered with snow.

From hence the party returned along the same shore, passing between it and the broken western land, through a narrow channel only three fathoms deep, which led to a point to which I gave the name of Point Hood,^[3] in latitude 56° 44′, longitude 227° 11′. Here it communicated with a more spacious branch about two miles wide, heading southward into the above-mentioned westerly branch, making the western shore of the small opening they had passed through to this station, an island about two leagues long, and two miles wide; the broken land being a group of islets lying between its north side and the supposed continent. From hence, the opposite direction of this branch, which after Admiral Duncan I distinguished by the name of Duncan’s Channel, stretched irregularly about N. 40 W., where it ultimately terminated in a shallow bay, bounded to the north by a low sandy flat, in latitude 56° 58′, longitude 226° 52′, having in it several islets and shallow bays, the latter principally on the south-west shore, along which they returned. By noon of the 31st they reached a point, from whence the continuation of the great western branch was directed to the south-west. This appeared to increase greatly in width; it contained some islands and islets, particularly along its northern shore, which from this point took a direction S. 20 W., four miles, to a point which after Captain William Mitchell of the navy, I named Point Mitchell, in latitude 56° 29′, longitude 237° 3′. The weather which, with little intermission, had been extremely bad and unfavorable to their pursuits, still continued so, and prevented their obtaining any satisfactory view of their surrounding regions. No doubt however could exist of their having now arrived in a very spacious arm of the sea, which was divided into three very large branches. That extending to the eastward they had already navigated, but that which appeared to be the main branch, being nearly three leagues wide, stretched to the westward and S. W.; the third, taking a S. S. E. direction, seemed also of importance, and had the appearance of being connected with the main channel of the branch stretching to the north-west from cape Caamano.

As far as any conclusions could be drawn from the view now before them, it seemed to be pretty clear, that the south-westerly channel communicated with the ocean; but as such communication might be through various intricate channels, it appeared to be an object of too extensive a nature to enter upon, at a time when their provisions were much reduced, and at the close of their expedition. The winding rocky channels also, through which they had passed in reaching this station, were by no means proper for the vessels to pursue; for these weighty reasons Mr. Johnstone declined prosecuting his researches any further, and considered it most prudent to find, if possible, a more direct and less intricate passage for the vessels to this station.

For this purpose the next morning (1st September) the party steered for the S. S. E. branch before mentioned, and found its north-east point of entrance, which I called Point Macnamara, after Captain Macnamara of the navy, situated in latitude 56° 21½′, longitude 227° 14½′; from whence its western point of entrance, which I named after Admiral Colpoys, bore west a league and a half, and the nearest opposite shore south-west, about three miles distant. Their course was directed along the eastern shore, which from point Macnamara took a direction S. 41 E. Nearly in this line, at the distance of four miles, the width of the channel decreased to about three quarters of a mile, by means of an island that I named Bushy Island lying in the channel, about two miles long; having from its shores on both sides some detached rocks, but admitting between it and the eastern shore a channel free to navigate. From the north-west side of this island lies also a chain of small islets, extending northward to the entrance of this opening. A very strong southerly wind so much retarded their progress, that it was night before they reached the south part of this narrow passage; here they rested until the morning, and found a very rapid flood tide setting from the westward, which confirmed the opinion of the south-westerly branch having communication with the ocean. They found the eastern shore still continue its former direction to a point named by me Point Nesbitt, in latitude 56° 15′, longitude 227° 26′; from whence the branch they were pursuing communicated with a wide opening leading towards the north-east, which most probably divided the intermediate land, between them and the channels they had examined leading to the northward from Prince Ernest’s sound. This opening is about two leagues across, in a direction S. 43 E. to its south point of entrance, which I called Point Harrington, from whence the eastern shore extends S. 8 E., about ten miles, to a projecting point which I named Point Stanhope, where at noon Mr. Johnstone observed the latitude to be 56° 2′, longitude 227° 38′; and from the view they now obtained of this branch, they entertained no doubt of its being a continuation of that seen extending to the north-westward from cape Caamano; the shores of which appeared much broken, and had some rocky islets lying near them. Their passage to the vessels by this route was now well ascertained, and a fresh favorable gale so accelerated their progress, that by midnight they reached point Onslow, making the land which they had gone round since the 24th of August an island, or a group of islands, which in honour of his Royal Highness the Duke of York, I called Duke of York’s Islands. In the course of the day they had passed three deserted villages, two of which occupied a considerable space, but discovered no signs of these, nor any other part of the shores they had lately traversed, being then inhabited. Here they rested for a few hours, and the next morning proving tolerably fair, the party were early in motion. In consequence of a strong adverse southerly wind, it was near sun-set before they reached cape Caamano; near which they were surprized by the sudden appearance of twenty canoes from behind a small low projecting point of land that seemed to contain not less than 250 Indians; a very formidable party, especially as experience had taught us, that the inhabitants of these regions never went from place to place without being well armed.

Our party immediately put themselves on the defensive, and made signs to the Indians to keep off; to this they paid no attention, and Mr. Johnstone seeing that they still advanced directly towards the boats, ordered a musket to be fired over them; but this having no effect, a swivel, loaded with grape shot, was fired, sufficiently a-head of them to avoid doing any harm, but near enough to shew its effect. They now made a temporary halt but soon pushed forward again; a musket was then fired over the main body of the canoes, on which they stopped until the boats rowed past them, when they paddled over to the opposite shore. So large a body of the natives coming so unawares upon our boats was the occasion of much alarm, particularly as in passing close along the shores no signs had been observed of their being inhabited.

Being unacquainted with the cause of their assembling, and their numbers being so great, Mr. Johnstone very prudently declined any nearer acquaintance, lest their intentions should have been hostilely directed, which there was too great reason to apprehend; as no such party had visited the ship at any one time, or had been seen in such numbers together. As they were informed of the absence of our boats, it is not very improbable that the whole force of the neighbourhood might have been collected on this occasion, to intercept our party on their return; yet, on the other hand, their having been so easily deterred from any molestation which they might have intended, though superior in numbers, makes it equally probable that the meeting was purely accidental on the part of the natives. A light breeze springing up, favorable to the boats, they kept under sail all night, and arrived on board as before related.

Calm weather prevented our moving until the morning of Thursday the 5th, when by the assistance of all our boats, we directed our course towards cape Caamano; intending to proceed with the vessels by the channel through which Mr. Johnstone had returned to the branch which he considered as communicating with the ocean; and to prosecute our further inquiries from some convenient station in that neighbourhood.

On the approach of evening I endeavoured to find anchorage near the continental shore, but without success; this rendered our situation very unpleasant, as we were reduced to the necessity either of returning to the place from whence we had come, or of keeping under sail all night, to which the gloomy and threatening appearance of the weather gave little encouragement. As the day closed in the wind increased to a strong gale from the south-east, attended with dark, misty, rainy weather, that occasioned us a very irksome uncomfortable night, being compelled to turn to windward towards cape Caamano, through a channel not a league in width, whose shores on either side were bounded by many lurking and dangerous rocks; these, however, we very providentially escaped, and, by four in the morning of Friday the 6th, reached a more spacious and navigable opening at the junction of two branches. Here the hawser by which the launch was towed broke, and had this accident happened before, in the dark of the night, whilst we were turning through the narrow channel, it would, in all probability have been attended with her total loss; which, next to that of one of the vessels, would have been the severest we could possibly have sustained. Having now plenty of sea room, on the dawning of the day we brought to, and the boat was soon recovered. By this time the strength of the south-east gale had so increased as to oblige us to close-reef the topsails, and get down the top-gallant yards.

Under the unfavorable circumstances of such weather, in this intricate navigation, where anchorage is so precarious and difficult to be found, and where innumerable steep lurking rocks, as well beneath as rising to different heights above the surface of the sea, were constantly presenting themselves, it must ever be regarded as a very happy circumstance that we had to leeward of us the great north-west branch, of which some information had been gained by Mr. Johnstone having passed through it; and, as far as he had been able to observe, he had considered it free from danger. The gale being attended with thick misty weather, rendered it however most prudent to lie to, until about ten in the forenoon; when, the wind abating, and the weather in a great measure clearing up, we bore away along the north-east shore of the north-west branch, and at noon observed the latitude to be 55° 44′, longitude 227° 54′. The south-west shore of the branch, in this situation, bore by compass from S. 64 W. to S. 42 E., and the north-east shore N. 40 W. to S. 50 E.; the nearest part of the former shore S. W.; distant four miles, and that of the latter, being point Le Mesurier N. E. by N., three miles. The wind continuing to be favorable, we made a great progress until near dark, when we anchored for the night in seven fathoms water, on the north side of a small island, close under the shores of the Duke of York’s islands, in latitude 56° 7½′, longitude 227° 34½′, having some rocky islets between it and the above shores. This situation is tolerably well sheltered from the southerly and south-east winds, but the soundings are irregular, and the bottom in some places is rocky.

The night was squally with much rain, but the next morning, Saturday the 7th, the weather was more favorable, and about four o’clock we directed our course towards point Nesbitt, passing a cluster of low rocks nearly in mid-channel, and also a ledge, extending southward from that point about two miles; these are very dangerous, as most of them seemed as if they were only visible at low tide. We were all advanced by noon in the passage between the Duke of York’s island and Bushy island, having abreast of point Nesbitt soundings from 20 to 12 fathoms. By an indifferent observation the latitude was found to be 56° 16′, the longitude 227° 20′. The wind having veered to the north, we were under the necessity of turning through this passage, and in so doing the soundings were found to be irregular, from 10 to 30 fathoms; and the bottom in some places rocky. The ebb tide, which commenced about noon, was favorable to our pursuit, as it sat to the north and north-west, so that about three in the afternoon we reached the spacious branch leading to the south and south-westward; towards this quarter our route was now directed. The clearness of the weather gave us a very perfect view of the adjacent shores bounding the horizon in every direction. To the westward, the distant land was moderately elevated, and appeared to be similar to that we had generally found along the sea coast; of an uneven surface, and very much divided by water. These circumstances, together with the ebb tide setting strong to the westward, left little doubt of our finding a passage to the ocean by that route, though not without the prospect of its being dangerous and intricate; for beside the broken appearance of the distant land, this spacious branch seemed to be spotted with several islets and rocks, just even with the surface of the water; but more particularly between us and the northern shore. Our soundings were very irregular, shoaling suddenly from 45 to 7, 11, and 9 fathoms; then deepening to 50 fathoms, and then no bottom with 110 fathoms of line, as quick as the lead could be thrown. This we experienced three distinct times in the course of the afternoon, which was for the most part calm, consequently our motion was slow, and was governed in a great degree by the tides or currents; these making greatly against us, about eight in the evening, with the assistance of our boats, we gained soundings and anchored in 47 fathoms water, near the southern shore; which by compass extended from S. 70 W., to N. 70 E., the latter, being point Colpoys, was about four miles from us; a rock above water, about the size of the launch, lying in mid-channel, N. 8 E. and the nearest shore south-east, about a quarter of a mile distant.

A few Indians had visited us in the course of the day, and by this time their number had considerably increased in six or seven canoes; who, after they had performed their ceremonies, indicative of friendship, similar to those I have before had occasion to notice, conducted themselves very orderly, and when they were made to understand that it was time for rest, the whole party immediately retired to the shore, where they remained, though not very silently, until the following morning, Sunday the 8th, when they repeated their visit with many songs, accompanied by a large augmentation to their party. This addition was principally of women, who, without the assistance of a single man, conducted two or three middling-sized canoes, and used their paddles with great dexterity. They were by no means disinclined to entertain us with their vocal abilities; most of the full grown women wore very large lip ornaments, and as we were now visited by all ages, an opportunity was afforded of seeing the progress of this horrid piece of deformity in its several stages. In their early infancy, a small incision is made in the centre of the under lip, and a piece of brass or copper wire is placed in, and left in the wound. This corrodes the lacerated parts, and by consuming the flesh gradually increases the orifice, until it is sufficiently large to admit the wooden appendage. The effecting of this, if we may be allowed to judge by the appearance of the young girls who were undergoing this cruel treatment, was attended with the most excruciating pain; and which they seemed to endure for a great length of time. These women appeared to possess in general a degree of liveliness, and a cheerful disposition, very different from any we had before seen with this hideous mark of distinction; and could this tribe be prevailed upon to dispense with this barbarous custom, there would have been some amongst them whose features would have intitled them to be considered as comely.

The want of wind which detained us at anchor, gave us an opportunity of purchasing from these people a large supply of very good salmon, and a few sea otter skins; in return for which they received spoons, blue cloth, and tin kettles, with trinkets of different descriptions. In all the commercial transactions the women took a very principal part, and proved themselves by no means unequal to the task. Nor did it appear, that either in these or in any other respect they were inferior to the men; on the contrary, it should rather seem that they are looked up to as the superior sex, for they appeared in general to keep the men in awe, and under their subjection. The knowledge we obtained of their manners and customs, in our short acquaintance, was however too superficial to establish this or any other fact, that did not admit of ocular demonstration. Amongst the party there did not appear to be any chief, or other person of importance, unless such authority was vested in some of the females. They all conducted themselves with great honesty, and seemed to have the utmost confidence that we should govern our conduct towards them by the same principles.

A light breeze of wind springing up from the S. E., we got under sail, and our Indian friends took their leave. We now directed our course towards the northern, or what had been supposed to be the continental, shore, to the westward of point Mitchell, intending, as on former occasions, to survey as far as we possibly could in the vessels, before the boats again were dispatched; but, on a nearer approach to this shore, it proved to be so encumbered with rocks and rocky islets, that it became necessary to alter our intended mode of proceeding; and as the weather began to wear a very threatening appearance, we crossed over to the southern shore, in order to gain shelter in the first place of security that could be found there, making the Chatham’s signal to lead in that pursuit; which, from the increase of the S. E. wind, attended by dark, gloomy weather, soon became an object of my most anxious concern.

In the afternoon, the wind, which blew in heavy squalls, shifted to the S. W., and obliged us to ply in that direction in quest of anchorage; but we could reach no bottom, even when we tacked close in with the shore. We were however extremely fortunate in finding before night an excellent port, round the point considered at our preceding anchorage as the extreme of the southern shore; which, after the first lieutenant of the Discovery, received the name of Point Baker. This the Chatham entered, making the necessary signals for us to follow; but just as we reached its entrance the wind fell calm, and the tide, to our great mortification, sat us out. In this very anxious situation (for appearances too strongly indicated the approach of much boisterous weather) we did not remain long; for a light breeze from the N. W. springing up, and blowing directly into the port, conducted us to a safe and secure situation, where, about seven in the evening, we anchored in 16 fathoms water.

We had scarcely furled the sails, when the wind shifting to the S. E., the threatened storm from that quarter began to blow, and continued with increasing violence during the whole night; we had, however, very providentially reached an anchorage that completely sheltered us from its fury, and most probably from imminent danger, if not from total destruction. Grateful for such an asylum, I named it Port Protection. Had we not been so happy as to have gained this place of safety, we must have passed a most perilous night, the preceding day having shewn us that the neighbouring shores on the outside of this harbour, afforded no bank of soundings on which our anchors would have lodged, nor would the low sail to which we must have been reduced, have kept us to windward of the dangers we must necessarily have encountered; these, together with the darkness of the night, and the irregularity of the tides, would have rendered it almost impossible for us to have avoided the land not quite two leagues to leeward of us, or the innumerable rocks lying before it, on which the sea, brought by the wind up a channel leading from the south, that we had now opened, broke with great violence. Thankful, in the highest degree, for so providential and secure a retreat from the stormy season which now appeared to have commenced, I determined to remain here, whilst the boats should prosecute the examination of the broken region before us.

After breakfast on Monday morning the 9th, though the S. E. gale continued to blow very strong, yet as the weather was clear, accompanied by Mr. Whidbey and Mr. Johnstone, I rowed out to point Baker, for the purpose of acquiring some information respecting the shores in its vicinity, with which the thickness of the weather, on the preceding day, had prevented our becoming acquainted.

From this station the inlet evidently appeared to be divided into three branches; the first was that by which we had arrived; the second took a northerly direction, through a very broken country; and the third evidently communicated with the ocean, in a S. S. W. direction.

As the continental boundary had already been considered as traced to point Mitchell by Mr. Johnstone, I directed him to recommence his examination at that place, which lay from this station E. N. E. seven or eight leagues distant; and to follow that shore up the above-mentioned northern branch. Should it not be found to communicate with the ocean, he was in that case to continue his researches to a certain point on the opposite shore, lying N. 30 W. from hence, at the distance of eight or nine miles; where I intended that Mr. Whidbey should commence his survey of the western shore southward from that point, until he should arrive in the ocean, either by the channel that appeared to communicate with it, or by any other in a more northerly or westerly direction.

Matters having been thus arranged, we returned on board; and the next morning Mr. Whidbey in the cutter, accompanied by Lieutenant Swaine in the launch, with a fortnight’s provisions, and Mr. Johnstone, attended by Mr. Barrie in our small cutter, set out to execute their respective commissions.

Mr. Johnstone’s excursion was of short duration, for on Wednesday the 11th, in the afternoon, he returned, having continued his examination of the supposed continental shore from the place where he had quitted it on his last expedition, and found it to take an irregular direction from thence to a point which, after Mr. Barrie who accompanied him, I named Point Barrie; being the east point of the opening before mentioned leading to the northward. In that space innumerable rocks were found; and nearly in the middle, between the two points, a large bay was seen, about four miles wide at the entrance, and of about the same extent to its bottom; in which were two or three rocky islets, with many rocks. The opening leading to the north seemed to be also a large open bay, bounded with such an infinite number of rocky islets and rocks above and beneath the surface of the water, that the navigation was very intricate and dangerous even for the boats. Under these circumstances, Mr. Johnstone considered it most prudent to keep without the rocks which extended along that shore, until he was abreast of the station that was to conclude his researches; and which, proving to be an island, acquired the name of Conclusion Island, where Mr. Whidbey had already commenced his survey. From hence Mr. Johnstone returned on board, without meeting with any particular occurrence, or seeing any of the inhabitants; five of whom, however, had visited us in the course of the day, but had not brought any thing to dispose of.

In the evening we had a fresh gale from the N. W. but in the night the wind veered to the S. E. and again blew very hard, attended by heavy squalls and much rain. This boisterous unpleasant weather continued until Sunday the 15th, when it became more moderate, and enabled me to employ a boat in making a survey of this port.

The two following days the wind was moderate, but very variable between the north and western quarters, attended by dark heavy gloomy weather; this on the night of Tuesday the 17th, brought on a very violent gale from the S. E. attended with heavy squalls and torrents of rain. The same weather continued until the forenoon of Friday the 20th, when both wind and weather became more temperate; yet I was very anxious for the safety of our friends in the boats, lest they should have been overtaken by any of these storms in an exposed and dangerous situation. In the afternoon, however, we were agreeably relieved from our unpleasant state of solicitude, by their arrival on board, all well, though very much fatigued with the inclement weather they had encountered during almost the whole of their excursion.

On leaving the vessels, their route was directed towards Conclusion island, passing in their way thither a smaller island, that lies nearly in the same direction from point Baker, distant about four miles. This island is low, and is about a mile long, in a north and south direction, with a ledge of very dangerous rocks extending from its south point. From the north point of Conclusion island, which is about three miles and a half long, in a direction N. 40 W. and S. 40 E. and has some rocks lying off its shores, they steered N. 13 W. two miles; to a point forming the north point of a bay in latitude 56° 31′, longitude 226° 21′, where they commenced their examination; and in pursuing a southerly course, the launch struck on a sunken rock, and knocked off her rudder with part of her sternpost. This accident obliged them afterwards to steer with an oar, which was not only very unpleasant, but likewise much retarded their progress. Off the south point of this bay, which in a south direction is four miles across, are a great many scattered rocks and islets, stretching nearly to the south-west point of Conclusion island, as also along the shore of the main land; which from that point takes a direction S. 20 E. about a league to the north point of the bay; off which, in the same line, at the distance of about a mile, is a small island about half a league long, with two smaller ones lying off its south point. This bay was found to be about two miles across, in a direction S. W. by W. and extending from its entrance to the W. N. W. two miles and a half; containing many rocks, whose tops were upon a level with the surface of the water. From hence the coast takes an irregular direction about S. 10 E. along which the party rowed, passing some bays and islets until they reached a point in latitude 56° 17′, longitude 226° 23′, which formed the north-east point of entrance into an opening leading to the north-west; this they entered on the morning of the 11th, and found that it formed an extremely good harbour, which I called Port Beauclerc; its access and egress are free from every obstruction, but such as are sufficiently evident to be avoided. From its north-east point of entrance the shores first extended N. 40 W. four miles and a half, then S. 11 W. nearly the same distance; where they took a north-easterly direction, two miles towards its west point of entrance, which lies west, two miles from the opposite point. Nearly in the middle is a small island, and sundry rocky islets, with regular soundings from 13 to 20 fathoms; and an islet with some rocks before its entrance, lying from the north-east point of entrance S. 35 E. at the distance of one mile. These admit of a good channel on every side. The surrounding shores are in general moderately elevated, well covered with wood; and water is very easily to be procured, as the communication with the land is sufficiently commodious.

From point Beauclerc the party advanced about a league S. 30 E. to a point that I named Point Amelius, which forms the north-east point of a bay, from whence they gained a clear and distinct view of the passage leading into the ocean. It appeared to be about six or seven miles wide, taking nearly a south direction, with a high island, which, after Captain Sir John Borlase Warren, I called Warren’s Island, lying in about the middle of the entrance; each shore is bounded by innumerable rocky islets and rocks, but the middle of the passage seemed free from danger. The bay was found to fall back about a league to the westward; here the shores took a more southerly direction, and islets, rocks and breakers extended from them about a league. Some smart showers of rain fell in the fore part of the day, and as they pursued their inquiries through this labyrinth of dangers, in the afternoon, a strong gale from the ocean brought with it so heavy a sea that they were constrained to seek for shelter, and were very fortunate in finding a secure retreat in a cove that effectually protected them against a very strong easterly gale of wind, that blew during the night with great violence. In the following morning it moderated, and the party prepared to depart; but the weather at that instant becoming very thick and rainy, attended by an increasing gale from the S. E. it was deemed most prudent to remain in this snug cove, until the weather should be more favorable for carrying their designs into execution. This did not take place until the morning of the 15th; in which interval the launch was hauled on shore, and such temporary repairs were given to her, as were likely to answer their present purpose. This storm blew without intermission from between the east and south, and with such fury that it was scarcely possible to look against the wind; nor could the party when on shore stand exposed to it, without holding by the rocks, trees, or some other security.

From this cove they found the coast take a south direction nearly three miles, to a low rocky point, called by me Point St. Alban’s, in latitude 56° 7′, longitude 226° 18′. The violence of the surf, which still continued to break upon the coast in consequence of the recent tempestuous weather, not only prevented their landing on this point, but rendered their navigating this rocky region perilous in the highest degree. Mr. Whidbey therefore determined to get at the outside of the rocks that extend about a league from the land, which with much difficulty and danger at length was effected, and they then proceeded round to point St. Alban’s, which forms the east point of an opening leading to the northward. This was entered, but the rocks still kept the party off from the main land, which first took a direction from point St. Alban’s, N. 50 W. about a league and a half, where the rocks extending along the eastern shore terminated; and from thence that shore became straight and compact, taking a direction N. 11 W. to the latitude of 56° 20′, longitude 226° 9′; where also the northern extent of this opening finally ended. Here they rested for the night.

The sides of this channel, which, after Admiral Affleck, I named Affleck’s Channel, were mountainous, but were not so steep as the shores of the more interior country. Its termination was formed by low flat land, covered with trees, that seemed to extend without interruption as far as could be discerned in a N. N. W. direction; through which flat country several small streams of fresh water flowed into the channel.

The next morning they returned nearly in a south direction along the western shore, and found the width of the channel to increase from half a mile near the head, to two miles at the distance of about eight miles from it, where the western shore still continuing its southern course, is indented with three large bays; the north point of the northernmost, which is the largest, being distant from the south point of the southernmost, nine miles. These bays were examined, and were found to retire from the line of their entrances (being all nearly in the same direction) about a league; the northernmost and southernmost have several rocks and islets about them, and the neighbouring country is moderately elevated, of uneven surface, and is covered with dwarf, pine, and other trees.

The day had been foggy and very unpleasant, which obliged them to rest from their labours early in the evening, near to the south point of the southernmost bay, which lies from point St. Alban’s S. 72 W. distant five miles and a half; where they passed a very rainy and uncomfortable night.

Although the rain had ceased on the next morning, yet the weather continued very hazy and unfavorable; the party, however, embarked, and after proceeding about four miles along the continental shore, in a southerly direction, the fog obscured every object from their view; but as they continued their route towards the southernmost part of the main land they had before seen, they found themselves on a sudden within the influence of a very heavy long rolling swell, coming from the westward, and indicating their being arrived in, or very near to, the ocean.

Being anxious to acquire every possible information of the region before them, and of the cause of this sudden alteration, they remained stationary from eight in the morning until two in the afternoon, without the least appearance of the fog clearing away; on which they retired to a cove about a mile north of the point, which was sheltered by some islets and rocks lying before it. Here the fog prevented their departure until seven o’clock in the morning of the 18th, when the weather in some measure clearing up, they returned to the point, where they landed with some difficulty, and found it to be a very conspicuous promontory, extending in a south direction to the ocean. From this promontory, the most northern extremity of the sea coast was seen to lie N. 58 W. and the most southern S. 54 W. the former about seven leagues distant, and the latter, which is the western extremity of an island of some extent, about eight miles. From the north-east point of this island, which lies from the promontory S. 10 E. distant four miles, is a range of rocky islets extending to the north, within half a league from the main land, that obscured the channel before noticed as leading to the sea.

The intermediate space between these islets and the promontory, appeared to form a passage free from interruption; but the more spacious channel to the eastward of the range, seemed to be far the most eligible for vessels bound to the south or eastward. Those going to the north-west may possibly find no inconvenience in navigating this passage; in which case a very great circuit will be avoided, and they will much sooner arrive in a clear ocean; as no rocks or breakers were seen near its shores, that were not to be easily avoided; and the only interruption to the view towards the sea was a group of small islands, lying to the W. S. W. that were supposed to be those called the Hazy isles, by some of the traders.

The party having now accomplished the principal object of their expedition, it remained at Mr. Whidbey’s option to prosecute his researches further along the exterior coast, or to desist from the pursuit. The frequent and long delays that had attended them thus far, left little probability of their now making any great progress along an open coast; especially as the very unsettled state of the weather was by no means favorable to the undertaking. Mr. Whidbey therefore very prudently declined the prosecution of his examination, and made the best of his way back towards the ships, stopping for the night in a cove a little to the south of that in which they had taken shelter during the storm, and which had the appearance of being sufficiently screened by rocks and islets to afford them protection; in this opinion, however, they were mistaken, for during the night so heavy a swell rolled from the southward, as to call forth their utmost exertions to prevent the boats from being dashed to pieces against the rocks. Here the party was detained until ten in the forenoon of the following day, before they could embark the tents and other matters that had been landed; and after this was accomplished, it was with no little difficulty that they extricated themselves from the surrounding rocks and breakers, when they returned to port Protection as already stated.

The communication of this intelligence, the boisterous state of the weather, the advanced season of the year, and the approach of long and dreary nights, left me in no doubt concerning the measures that ought to be now adopted; especially as the tracing of the continental boundary would now be exposed to the numerous inconveniences attendant on an open unexplored sea coast; and if, after our utmost endeavours, it should not be effected with that accuracy that had hitherto been observed, our anxious labours and exertions would be rendered very incomplete.

Notwithstanding that I was by no means satisfied with the progress we had made in our survey during the summer, yet as we had an extensive space to examine, that would occupy a great length of time, to the southward of Monterrey, I was induced to yield to the measures which prudence dictated, and to decline entering on any new northern inquiries. It was now also become highly expedient that the vessels should retire to some milder region, where refreshments might be obtained; and where such relaxation and ease as now became necessary might be given to those under my command, whose zeal and laborious exertions, during the summer, had justly intitled them to my best thanks and highest commendation.

My mind was by no means satisfied with the small extent, in a direct line, which had been examined during the late summer; yet I derived great consolation in the reflection that, in all probability, we had overcome the most arduous part of our task, and that our future researches would be attended with less disappointment and fatigue. And further, that should the information we had thus obtained reach Europe, there would no longer remain a doubt as to the extent or the fallacy of the pretended discoveries said to have been made by De Fuca, and De Fonte, De Fonta, or Fuentes.

The very intricate passages by which our late researches were carried into effect, I have taken much pains to describe; yet it may not be amiss to endeavour, by assigning names to some particular places, and by a more concise account, to render so unentertaining a narrative at least more comprehensible.

It is in the first place necessary to premise, that our researches were not carried on in a continued or direct line, but through part of a very extensive, and hitherto unexplored region, in various directions, bounded to the eastward by the continent, and to the westward by the ocean; our navigation in the vessels on some occasions leading between islands, and on others along the continental shore.

That part of the archipelago, comprehended between the Chatham’s and Fitzhugh’s sounds, lies immediately behind, or to the eastward of, Queen Charlotte’s islands, admitting of a spacious navigable channel, between the western shore of the archipelago and the eastern shore of those islands. This region, as I have already had occasion to observe, had been visited before our arrival in it by several traders, particularly by a Mr. Duncan, but from whom no certain information could be obtained whether it was a part of the continent, or whether it was wholly composed of islands; this gentleman, however, was right in conjecturing the latter, and he named those parts between Nepean’s and Fitzhugh’s sounds, Princess Royal’s Islands, which name I have continued.

The continent adjacent to those islands, from point Staniforth at the entrance of Gardner’s channel, to Desolation sound, the northern extent of New Georgia, I have distinguished by the name of New Hanover, after his Majesty’s hereditary German dominions. To the northward from Nepean’s sound, along the continental shore, is a continuation of this archipelago, separated from the continent by Grenville’s channel and Chatham’s sound, nearly in a straight line; and north-westward from Chatham’s sound, is a further and more extensive continuation of the same group of islands, separated from the continental shore by various channels; the most spacious of which is that by which the vessels arrived at this station, and which, in honour of his Royal Highness Prince William Henry, I have called The Duke of Clarence’s Strait; it is bounded on the eastern side by the Duke of York’s islands, part of the continent about cape Caamano, and the isles de Gravina. Its western shore is an extensive tract of land, which (though not visibly so to us) I have reason to believe is much broken, and divided by water, forming as it were a distinct body in the great archipelago. This I have honoured with the name of The Prince of Wales’s Archipelago; and the adjacent continent, to the northward from Gardner’s channel, to point Rothsay, the extent of our survey to the north this season, I have distinguished with that of New Cornwall.

The shoal extending from point Blaquiere to point Rothsay having been found by Mr. Johnstone to be impassable by our boats, the land to the westward of the former point was considered as forming a part of the continent; as also that to the westward of Conclusion island, although it had not been positively so determined from point Barrie, owing to the rocks and other dangerous impediments which prevented Mr. Johnstone from keeping sufficiently near to the main land for ascertaining that fact: should, however, this conjecture be hereafter proved to have been ill founded, and the land in question be found insular,^[4] the channel or channels by which it may be divided or separated from the continent, are certainly not navigable for shipping; hence I have considered the continental shore to have been traced to the conspicuous promontory at which Mr. Whidbey’s last excursion terminated, and that its shores were there washed by the uninterrupted waters of the North Pacific. Under the impression of all the land north-eastward from that promontory to point Rothsay, being a continuation of the continental shores of New Cornwall, New Hanover, New Georgia, and New Albion, the extent of the discoveries of De Fuca, De Fonte, and other pretenders to a prior knowledge of these regions, must necessarily be decided, even admitting that such assumptions were true; hence I have distinguished this promontory, situated in latitude 56° 2′, and longitude 226° 8′, by the name of Cape Decision. This cape forms (if the expression be correct) the north-west continental point, and cape Flattery in New Georgia, situated in latitude 48° 23′, longitude 235° 38′, the south-east point of this very extensive archipelago.

These promontories, as it were, unfold the extremities of this broken region, which, from the former, extends to the north-eastward and south-eastward; and from the latter, to the south-eastward, north-eastward, and north-westward. The western side of the intermediate space of this extensive group of islands, between these two promontories, excepting that part opposite to Queen Charlotte’s islands, forms the external or sea coast, and previous to this survey was generally laid down as the continental shore. This, at length, was found to compose the exterior coast at cape Decision, and flattered our hopes that our examination in the ensuing season would be carried into execution with less difficulty and fatigue than had hitherto attended our researches.

Conscious, however, that these additional observations may not be sufficiently explanatory, I beg leave to refer my readers to the charts for the further elucidation of our survey.

The reasons already assigned for declining the further prosecution of our inquiries along the continent, to the northward of cape Decision, induced me to lose no time in repairing to the southward; purposing in that route, should circumstances so permit, to fix the outline of the external coast, particularly the western side of Queen Charlotte’s islands, which had been reported to have been very erroneously delineated in the charts already published.

Every thing was in readiness for our proceeding to sea on Friday the 20th; but contrary winds detained us until the morning of Saturday the 21st, when, with a light variable breeze, and the assistance of our boats, we were at noon about half a league to the westward of port Protection; a haven that had afforded us an asylum when we little expected it, amidst impending dangers.

Port Protection will be most readily found, by attending to the following directions. It is situated at the north-west extremity of the Prince of Wales’s archipelago; its southern extreme composes the base of a very remarkable, barren, peaked mountain, which I have called Mount Calder, after Captain Calder of the navy; this is conspicuous in many points of view, not from its superior elevation, when compared to the mountains I have had occasion to notice on the continent, but from its height above the rest of the country in its immediate vicinity, and from its being visible in various directions at a great distance. Point Baker, on an islet close to the shore, forms its north-east point of entrance, from whence the opposite point lies S. 27 W., at the distance of three quarters of a mile; the channel is good, and free to enter, yet there is one lurking rock, visible only at low tide, lying in a direction from point Baker S. 13 E., about three cables length distant; the weeds that it produces however makes it sufficiently evident to be avoided, even at high water, as it admits of a clear passage all round it, with soundings close to it from eight to twelve fathoms. About a mile to the north of point Baker is situated also a bank, on which the soundings are very irregular, from fifteen to thirty-two fathoms; this, with the meeting of the tides round the Prince of Wales’s archipelago, causes an agitation or kind of race in the water, especially with the flood tide, that might appear dangerous to strangers; we, however, after many trials, found no where less than fifteen fathoms upon it, and no bottom could be gained with sixty and seventy fathoms of line, between it and the shore.

This harbour takes a general direction from its entrance S. 36 E., for about two miles and a quarter; its width from five to three cables length across its navigable extent; beyond which it terminates in small shallow coves. The soundings are rather irregular, from thirty to fifty fathoms; and where we anchored near a projecting rocky point, which at high water became an islet, the bottom, although the lead generally brought up mud, was hard, and probably rocky, as our cables received some damage; and just in that neighbourhood the depth was more irregular than in any other part of the harbour. From thence point Baker lies N. 25 W., the rock in the channel N. 33 W., the south point of the port N. 82 W., and the projecting rocky point, or islet at high water, east, at the distance of a cable’s length. Our situation was somewhat exposed to the north and north-west winds, which have been avoided by taking a station higher up in the harbour, or in a snug cove to the south-east of the rocky point or islet. The shores are in most places steep and rocky, and are covered with an impenetrable forest of pine and other trees. They afford several streams of fresh water, and with our hooks and lines a few halibut were caught, but the seine was worked to no effect. We sometimes deprived the gulls and crows of a kind of caplin, which were left in some number by the high tides, on the beaches, and amongst the rocks; these proved to be the most delicate eating, to which our sportsmen added some ducks, geese, and other aquatic birds; of the latter we had also procured some in port Stewart; so that with different sorts of berries which the shores produced, the tables of the officers were by no means ill supplied. The wild fowl were not obtained in such numbers as to serve the ship’s company, but of the fish and fruit they always had a due proportion. The irregularity of the tides prevented me from ascertaining any thing satisfactory concerning their motion, owing probably to the insular situation of the port, and the boisterous weather that had constantly prevailed. Our observations, however, served to shew that the flood tide came from the south, and that it is high water 7^h 40′ after the moon passes the meridian. I procured only one day’s observation for the latitude, for fixing the true position of this port, but it was one upon which I could much depend. That was by no means the case with the observations I made for ascertaining the longitude by the chronometers, which, since our departure from port Stewart, seemed to have gone very irregularly; the longitude therefore of this place, as likewise of the several points and stations, from hence southward to Nootka, is deduced from subsequent observations made at that port, by which the longitude of the entrance into port Protection appeared to be 226° 35′, its latitude 56° 20′; and the variation, by two compasses, differing from 28° 37′ to 22° 42′, shewed the mean result to be 26° 27′ eastwardly.

Although we had passed thus far through Clarence’s straits without interruption, it is nevertheless a navigation that ought to be prosecuted with much circumspection; particularly from the anchorage which we quitted on the 7th, to port Protection, and from thence to sea, by the route we were now pursuing through the main channel, to the eastward of cape Decision.

Little progress was made on Saturday night, owing to the light variable winds. Several signals were made to denote our situation to the Chatham, and though soundings were frequently sought, no bottom could be gained with 160 fathoms of line. On Sunday the 22d, with the approach of day a gentle breeze sprang up from the northward, but was unfortunately attended with a very thick fog. We had however procured a tolerably good view of our situation before its commencement; and Mr. Whidbey having paid particular attention to the course we had to pursue, we made sail accordingly.

About eight o’clock we were within hearing of a very heavy surf to the westward, and shortly after, by a partial dispersion of the fog, our situation was shewn to be, as we expected, abreast of point St. Alban’s, and about two miles from the nearest of those dangerous rocks that surround it. The fog gradually cleared away, and towards noon the weather became pleasant, with a favorable breeze from the north-west; this made me regret the obscurity of the morning, which had prevented our delineating the eastern shore with more exactness than had been effected by the very distant view of it obtained in the boats.

Our course had been directed between Warren’s island and the islands lying to the southward of cape Decision. The southernmost of these is the largest, being about seven leagues in circuit; this I called Coronation Island, the day of our passing it having been the anniversary of that happy event. At noon, it bore by compass from S. 40 W., distant four miles, to S. 23 W.; cape Decision S. 87 W., nearly two leagues; mount Calder N. 13 E.; a conspicuous point on the eastern shore, forming the south-east point of entrance into this strait, N. 76 E., distant two leagues; to which, after Captain Pole of the navy, I gave the name of Cape Pole; the east point of Warren’s island S. 87 E. about two leagues distant; its north-west point, named by me Point Borlase, S. 63 E., distant one league; and its south-west point S. 51 E., five miles distant. In this situation our observed latitude was 56°, longitude 226° 17′.

Soon after mid-day our favorable breeze gradually decreased, so that it was past sun-set before we reached the ocean.

We had now become pretty well acquainted with this entrance into the strait, formed on the west by cape Decision, and on the east side by cape Pole; these lie from each other S. 72 E., and N. 72 W., eleven miles asunder; having to the southward of this line the islands above mentioned, by which are formed three passages into the strait. That between cape Decision and the islands to the south of it, has been already described; that which we pursued between Coronation and Warren’s islands is by far the most spacious and fair to navigate, for in that between cape Pole and Warren’s island some lurking rocks were observed.

To the southward of this island are three clusters of very dangerous rocks, the first lying from its north-west point S. 15 E., at the distance of three miles and a half; the second south, distant six miles; and a small islet lying from them south-east, at the distance of about half a league. The third cluster lies off the south-east point of the island, which, from its north-west point, lies S. 55 E., four miles, from whence those rocks lie in a direction S. 30 E., about four miles distant. Nearly in mid-channel between the islands, bottom could not be gained with 120 fathoms of line. We saw nothing of the land to north-west of cape Decision, but that to the south-east and south of cape Pole seemed to be much divided by water.

Having once more the satisfaction of being in an open sea, our course was directed to the south-east, but our sails were scarcely trimmed to the favorable breeze that prevailed, when it suddenly shifted to the S. E., and blew a fresh gale, with which we stood to the southward. The sky soon became overcast, and towards the morning of the 23d the wind had so much increased, attended by an heavy sea, that we pitched away our spritsail-yard, and were obliged to get down our top-gallant-yards. About this time the Chatham made signal for having sprung a lower yard.

In the forenoon the south-east gale moderated, and died away in the evening to a calm, which afforded us an opportunity of learning that the Chatham’s main boom had been carried away, an accident that we had immediately in our power to repair. The calm was shortly succeeded by a fresh gale from the westward, with which we directed our course for the north-west point of Queen Charlotte’s islands; these were in sight about ten the next morning, bearing E. N. E. ½ E.; and at noon, being within about three leagues of the shore, we sailed along it to the south-eastward; our observed latitude 54° 14′, longitude 226° 42′, and the variation of the compass 24° 33′ eastwardly.

In this situation the north-west point of this land, which it seems is an island, named by Sen^r Caamano Isle de Langara, bore by compass N. 37 E. to N. 48 E., and the southernmost land in sight S. 42 E.: by our observations the north-west point of this island is situated in latitude 54° 20′, longitude 226° 59½′; and by Mr. Dixon’s chart it is placed in latitude 54° 24′, longitude 226° 36′; which is no very material disagreement.

From this point, which I have called Point North, we found the general trending of these shores first take a direction N. 14 W., twenty-two miles to a projecting land, appearing like two islands; the west extremity of which I named Point Frederick; and then S. 17 E. twenty-six miles to a high steep cliffy hill, called by Mr. Dixon Hippa island; this ended in a low projecting point to the north-eastward, off which lie some breakers, though at no great distance. The coast to the N. N. E. and S. E. of Hippa island appeared to be much broken, particularly to the south-eastward; where a very extensive sound takes an easterly direction, named by Mr. Dixon Rennell’s sound; its entrance by our observations is in latitude 53° 28′, longitude 227° 21′. Having reached this extent about dark, we hauled our wind, and plied under an easy sail to preserve our station until the next morning. At the dawn of the following day, Wednesday the 25th, we continued along the coast, composed of steep mountainous precipices, divided from each other by the water; these seemed to have gradually increased in height from point North, from whence along the shores to this extent, were some scattered islets and rocks at a small distance from the land. Our progress was slow, the wind being light, accompanied with pleasant weather. At noon, in the observed latitude of 53° 2′, longitude 227° 22′, Hippa island by compass bore N. 42 W.; and a conspicuous projecting point, nearly the southernmost land in sight, which I named Cape Henry, S. 82 E.; these forming the outline of the coast, lie from each other S. 32 E. and N. 32 W., 15½ leagues apart. This cape, situated in latitude 52° 53′, longitude 227° 45½′, forms the south point of a deep bay or sound, its shores apparently much broken; to this I gave the name of Englefield Bay, in honour of my much esteemed friend Sir Henry Englefield. Its north point of entrance lying from cape Henry N. 27 W., at the distance of seven leagues, I called Point Buck; which also forms the south point of entrance into a sound falling deep back to the eastward, named by me Cartwright’s Sound. Its north point of entrance, which likewise after my very particular friend and physician I named Point Hunter, lies from point Buck, N. 25 W., distant ten miles; and a little within this line of direction is an island near the northern shore.

From cape Henry, which we passed in the afternoon, at the distance of four or five miles, the shores, so far as we had reached by sun-set, seemed to be compact and to take a more easterly direction. The southernmost land in sight bore by compass S. 72 E., the nearest shore N. N. E., five miles, and the northernmost land in sight N. 33 W. During the night the wind was light and variable, by which means our distance from the coast was increased greatly beyond what I had intended. At day-light on Thursday the 26th the land, near the south extremity of Queen Charlotte’s islands, which is named by Mr. Dixon cape St. James, was seen bearing by compass S. 87 E. the northernmost land in sight N. 68 W. and the nearest shore N. 11 W., four or five leagues distant.

With a favorable though light breeze, our course was directed along the shore, but at too great a distance to admit of our making any particular or exact delineation of it; nor is the sketch we were enabled to obtain of these islands to be considered as correct, or to be depended upon, because their numerous divisions would have demanded a survey that would have occupied infinitely more time than we had now to bestow. Our examination was wholly confined to the general direction of the shores, and to ascertain the position of their conspicuous projecting points. Towards cape St. James the land was very moderately elevated, but, like that on the northern part of the islands, it rose gradually to rugged and uneven mountains, which occupied the centre of the country, descending towards its extremities to a less height, and is of a more uniform appearance.

The wind blew a gentle breeze from the W. N. W. attended with clear and pleasant weather. At noon our observed latitude was 52° 3½′, longitude 228° 29′. In this situation cape St. James bore by compass N. 76 E., the nearest shore N. 53 E., distant five or six leagues; and the northernmost land in sight N. 42 W.; these, with other angles taken in the course of the day, shewed cape St. James, according to our observations, to be in latitude 51° 58′, longitude 229° 6½′, although by Mr. Dixon’s chart it is placed in latitude 51° 48′, longitude 230°. These islands are also described by him to occupy an extent of 2° 36′ in latitude, and 3° 24′ in longitude; whereas by our estimation they include only 2° 22′ of latitude, and 2° 7′ of longitude. This difference appears to have originated in fixing the position of Rennell’s sound, and to have increased uniformly to cape St. James.

From cape St. James some rocks and rocky islets extend between the directions of S. 22 E. and S. 35 E., at the distance of about a league; though Mr. Gray, in the Columbia, struck and received some material damage upon a sunken rock, which he represented as lying at a much greater distance, though nearly in the same line of direction.

The prevailing breeze favoring our wishes, the Chatham’s signal was made to lead during the night; in which so little progress was made, that on the following morning, Friday the 27th, the land about cape St. James was still in sight. At noon the observed latitude was 51° 15′, longitude 229° 40′. The winds were still favorable, though very gentle, attended with delightfully pleasant weather, making a very material alteration for the better in our climate. This agreeable change, however, from our last year’s experience, we had no great expectation would long continue. The whales, seals, and sea otters, seemed to be aware of this, as great numbers of these animals had been sporting about us for the two or three previous days, enjoying the sun-shine, and probably taking their leave of the summer season.

In the evening of Saturday the 28th we gained sight of the westernmost of Scot’s islands, bearing by compass E. ½ N. The night was nearly calm, and the next morning the favorable breeze was succeeded by light airs from the eastward. At noon the westernmost of Scot’s islands bore by compass N. 44 E., and the easternmost N. 61 E. The observed latitude 50° 45′, the longitude being at that time 230° 29′; this longitude was deduced from the above latitude, the bearings of these islands, and their position as fixed by our observations made the preceding year; which I considered to be as accurately ascertained as any station on this coast. This circumstance now afforded me an excellent opportunity of discovering the several errors of our chronometers, which were by these means proved beyond all doubt to be going very incorrectly. The longitude shewn at noon by Kendall was 230° 56′, by Arnold’s No. 14, 230° 20′ 38″, and by Arnold’s No. 176, 231° 12′ 37″. These being deduced from very excellent observations made both before and after noon, shewed Kendall’s to be 27′ 15″, and Arnold’s No. 176 to be 43′ 37″ to the east, and No. 14, to be 8′ 22″ to the west of the truth.

From hence our course was directed in the October 1793 best manner we were able towards Nootka, then lying S. 58 E., at the distance of 45 leagues. Such however was the tardiness of our progress from adverse winds, calms, squally, thick, rainy, or foggy weather; that it was not until about noon of Saturday the 5th of October that we reached that port.

The usual ceremonies of salutes, and other formalities having passed, accompanied by Mr. Puget I waited on Sen^r Saavadra, the commandant of the port; who informed me, that he had not received any intelligence, either from Europe or from New Spain, since our departure from hence in the spring; and that neither the Dædalus, nor any other ship with stores addressed to me, had been there. The Dædalus I had some expectation of meeting here, in the event of her having made a good passage to port Jackson, and not having been there detained.

The only vessel we found at Nootka, was the San Carlos laid up for the winter; but Sen^r Saavadra gave me to understand, that in the course of the summer the port had been visited by a French ship called La Flavia, having on board a very valuable cargo of European commodities, which was carried to Kampschatka, there to be disposed of to the Russians for furs, with which a cargo of tea was to have been purchased in China; but that their expedition hitherto had not answered their expectations.

Sen^r Saavadra further stated, that whilst the vessel remained at Nootka the crew had been very mutinous; and so unruly, that the commandant had been on the point of employing force to compel them to due obedience of their commander’s orders, to which at length they seemed to be tolerably well reconciled, and departed for China less disorderly inclined. Some few American vessels had also arrived in our absence, but in a most deplorable condition, totally in want of provisions, naval stores, and even such articles of merchandize as were necessary for trading with the natives.

A strong gale of wind from the S. E. the next morning, Sunday the 6th, obliged us to strike the top-gallant masts. The carpenters were employed on shore in cutting down a new main boom, a gaff spritsail-yard, and other spars that were wanted; whilst the rest of the respective crews were engaged in the several other duties that now required attention. These fully occupied our time until Tuesday morning the 8th, when, having requested the favor of Sen^r Saavadra to take charge of a letter containing instructions for the guidance of the commander of the Dædalus, or of any other vessel that might arrive at Nootka with dispatches for me, or with stores for our service; we sailed from that port with a light northerly wind, paying and receiving from the fort the usual compliments.

On the preceding day I procured some excellent observations, both before and after noon, for ascertaining the error of our chronometers at this place. The mean result of which shewed that Kendall’s was 34′ 50″; Arnold’s No. 176, 47′ 21″ to the east; and that No. 14, was 18′ 20″ to the west of the truth. These observations, with those made when off Scot’s islands, completely manifested the increase of error in that lapse of time, by which means a new rate of going was pretty well ascertained; and which having been adopted in calculating and correcting the longitude assigned to the several stations between port Stewart and Nootka as before mentioned, I trust will be found liable to little objection.

These rates will regulate our further observations, until we may have an opportunity of ascertaining the errors more correctly.

On leaving the port of Nootka, our progress was so much impeded by the want of wind, and by the influence of those very extraordinary counter tides or currents already noticed, that by six in the evening of Tuesday the 8th we were not more than two leagues to the southward of point Breakers, about which time a strange vessel was seen from the mast-head to windward; but as the night was approaching, and as I wished to avoid any delay, we took no other notice of her, but continued our course to the S. E. agreeably to my former determination of recommencing our researches on the southern parts of New Albion, and of procuring such of the necessary refreshments as those countries afford, and which we now very perceptibly began to require.

As I had little doubt that the store-ship would join us before we should have quitted those shores, and as St. Diego appeared to me to be the most likely harbour to answer several purposes, I intended to unload her there, and to give our vessels such necessary repair and re-equipment as each might demand.

With variable winds from the N. W. and S. E. we made the best of our way. These winds, particularly the former, though blowing a moderate breeze, was frequently attended with very foggy weather; we however made so good a progress, that by the afternoon of Monday the 14th, we passed cape Orford; to the southward of which, as we proceeded along the coast, we observed on the eminences and hills that form the shores, at certain distances, large fires burning throughout the whole night; a circumstance that had not before occurred to my observation on this coast.

Being anxious to obtain some certain information respecting the port of Bodega, of which the inclemency of the weather the preceding season had disappointed me, I directed Mr. Puget, on Tuesday the 15th, to make the best of his way thither, whilst I proceeded to St. Francisco, in the hope of meeting Sen^r Quadra there, or at Monterrey, with sufficient credentials for settling the business depending about Nootka; which, it was not improbable, might render our return thither immediately necessary. Mr. Puget having received his directions, and having appointed St. Francisco as a rendezvous where he would either meet or hear from me, he immediately departed for the port of Bodega; and as there was not the least probability of Mr. Menzies being able to visit that part of the coast by any other opportunity, he accompanied Mr. Puget in pursuit of botanical information.

In the evening cape Mendocino was seen bearing S. E. at the distance of seven or eight leagues. During the night, and all the next day, Wednesday the 16th, the wind was light and very baffling, attended with a thick fog, or hazy weather, that continued until the morning of Thursday the 17th, when, with a fine breeze from the N. N. W. we steered along the coast to the south-east of cape Mendocino. At noon the observed latitude was 39° 18′; the coast then in sight extending by compass from N. to E. S. E. the nearest shore N. E. distant about a league.

In the afternoon we passed point Barro de Arena, and to the north-west of it some breakers were now seen, about two miles from the shore, that had not been noticed on our former visit.

The Chatham, though at some distance before us, was yet in sight, and kept close to the land; but we directed our course for point de los Reys. Light baffling winds, attended by fogs or thick weather, prevented our reaching that distance until noon of Saturday the 19th; when we passed that promontory with a pleasant breeze from the N. N. W. which, by seven in the evening, brought us to an anchor in port St. Francisco, near our former birth off the Presidio.

We were soon hailed from the shore, upon which a boat was dispatched thither, and immediately returned with our civil and attentive friend Sen^r Sal; who, in addition to the offers of his services and hospitality, gratified us by communicating the interesting intelligence of the state of Europe, up to so late a date as the preceding February; which, as may be naturally expected, had long been an object of our most anxious curiosity. After supper Sen^r Sal retired to the shore, and the next morning I received from him two letters; the one requesting, in an official form, that I would acquaint him in writing of our arrival in port St. Francisco, of the supplies we should want, and of the time I intended to remain in that port, in order that he might immediately communicate the same to the governor of the province; the other stating that, under the superior orders by which alone his conduct could be governed, he was obliged to make known to me, that no individual could be permitted to come on shore, but for the purposes of procuring wood and water, excepting myself and one officer, or midshipman, who might pass to the Presidio, where I should be received and attended as on our former visit.

These restrictions were of a nature so unexpected, ungracious, and degrading, that I could not but consider them as little short of a dismission from St. Francisco, and I was left in the greatest perplexity to account for a reception so totally different from what we had experienced on a former occasion, and so contrary to what I had been taught to expect, by the letters with which I had been honoured from the viceroy of New Spain, in return to my letter of thanks for the great civilities that had been conferred upon us.

I was given to understand, that a captain in the Spanish infantry, named Arrillaga, had arrived at Monterrey some time in the course of the preceding spring; and being the senior officer, had taken upon himself the jurisdiction of the province, with sentiments apparently not the most favorable towards foreign visitors.

In support of this opinion, and in justice to our worthy friend Sen^r Sal, it is necessary to remark, that it evidently appeared to be with the utmost repugnance that he was compelled to deliver, in compliance with the orders of his senior officer, these injunctions. In reply to which, I stated briefly to Sen^r Sal, that I had put into port St. Francisco to recruit our wood and water, to procure such refreshments as the country might afford, and to wait the arrival of our consort the Chatham; with which vessel this port had been appointed our next rendezvous previous to our parting company. That as soon as we should have obtained our necessary supplies, which would not occupy more than two or three days, we should depart; and that he might be assured the restrictions contained in his other letter, respecting our communication with the shore, should be duly observed.

This port, however, was the rendezvous of the Chatham; and as I had not been denied the privilege of procuring some fresh beef, I determined to remain until she should arrive. This took place, however, much earlier than I could have expected from the nature of the service on which she had been dispatched, as we had the pleasure of seeing her at St. Francisco the next day, Monday the 21st.

Our water had been procured, when we were here before, just behind the beach, in a low space covered with spiry grass, which was at that time flooded by the rain; this being now quite dry, we were obliged to resort to a small stream of most excellent water; but as this was surrounded by a loose morass, through which we were obliged to pass, the accomplishment of this object was rendered so tedious, as to detain us here until the evening of Wednesday the 23d, when we prepared for our departure; and at four the next morning, Thursday the 24th, having the ebb tide, and a fresh breeze from the N. W. we turned out of the port. The wind in the offing was very light and baffling, but we directed our course with it in the best manner we were able towards Monterrey; where I expected to find the deserters of the Chatham, and where, by explaining the peculiar nature of our situation to Sen^r Arrillaga, the acting commandant of the province, I was in hopes of meeting a reception worthy of our situation, notwithstanding his former restrictive orders.

It appeared by Mr. Puget’s journal, that from light variable winds, calms and fogs, he did not reach the entrance into port Bodega until the morning of the 20th, when he stood in between its north point, and the flat rock lying off it, noticed on the 13th of February, 1792; and anchored in six fathoms water, the flat rock bearing by compass S. W. and an opening in the land supposed to be the mouth of the harbour, W. N. W. Here Mr. Puget remarks, that in gaining this station it was again his misfortune to be incommoded by a thick fog; but as such impediments had already detained him far beyond his expectations, he had embraced the opportunity of the first clear interval to bear away for this narrow passage, and found the depth of water from ten to four fathoms; the flat rock was found to lie from the north point of the port S. 63 E. distant a quarter of a mile. About a mile from the flat rock a reef of rocks extends S. 13 W.; off its north point is a shoal two or three ship’s lengths in extent; this ought not to be nearer approached than the soundings of four fathoms will admit, and is discoverable by the weeds it produces. The best passage through this narrow channel to the anchorage which the Chatham occupied, is found by keeping the northern or continental shore on board; at which station Mr. Puget inserts the following account of his transactions.

“Immediately after the vessel was secured, Mr. Johnstone was sent, accompanied by Mr. Menzies, to examine port Bodega, which they accomplished by noon, having rounded out the sandy bay to the northward in nine and twelve fathoms water. The entrance of the harbour is obstructed by a shoal of sand, on which the greatest depth is nine feet at the last quarter’s flood. Mr. Johnstone went through this passage close to the high land, and at the back of the low spit before us, he found an extensive lagoon, which also had the same soundings as in the entrance. On landing they were joined by some Indians, who had previously made a large fire on the north corner of the bay. These people, in their manners and conduct, were perfectly inoffensive; their numbers did not exceed thirty, of all ages and of both sexes; some few had bows and arrows, which they disposed of to our party for beads and trinkets; the language they spoke was a mixture of Spanish and their own provincial dialect, and from this we may infer, that they were either subordinate to the Spaniards, or that they had a constant connection with the settlement at St. Francisco.

“On the bluff of the entrance is fixed, in a conspicuous place, a pole, having a stave lashed across its upper end, which was conjectured to be the Spanish token of possession; indeed by the Indians our party learned, if they were rightly understood, that some of that nation were actually there, at the extremity or north-west end of the lagoon.

“Mr. Johnstone observed the men to be in general naked, but the women wore skins of animals about their shoulders and waists, and were as much tatooed, or punctured, as any of the females of the Sandwich islands; the hair of both sexes was black, which they wore clubbed behind.

“The soil is sandy, and in general covered with bushes and different sorts of verdure; the country, inland, is of a moderate height; but as their examination was confined to the beach and its environs, they remained ignorant of the vegetable productions the more inland parts afforded.

“Great numbers of the feathered tribe were seen, white and brown pelicans, gulls, plover, and a variety of aquatic fowl; on the shores they observed eagles, hawks, the red-breasted lark, crows and ravens. No quadrupeds were seen, they only distinguished the track, and saw the dung, of what was considered to be black cattle.

“Having completed their examination of this part of the bay, and seeing no likelihood of a favorable change in the weather, we weighed at two in the afternoon, it being my intention immediately to proceed to the examination of the next opening; but the wind coming to the S. W. with a very threatening appearance from that quarter, when we were off it, deterred me from pursuing my first plan.

“This opening is formed by two apparently low points, from which extends a vast deal of broken water; but whether there was a passage between them we could not determine. I should be inclined to think there is not; for which reason I did not think it prudent to stand too far in, as, from the direction of the wind, we should not have been able to have hauled out clear of the land; had we met with shoal water, our depth in that situation being seven fathoms, having from our anchorage to abreast of this opening had from that depth to thirteen fathoms, irregular hard bottom, but not rocky; and as this part of the coast does not afford any known safe shelter, from whence we could have dispatched the boats, and left the vessel in perfect security; I judged it best, from such circumstances, and the continual thickness and bad appearance of the weather, to give up the examination until a more favorable opportunity should offer, and make the best of my way to join the Discovery at St. Francisco.”

I was much disappointed that these untoward circumstances had prevented Mr. Puget from completing his survey of port Bodega; and I should certainly have given directions for a second attempt, had it not been for the reception we had met with at St. Francisco; which had probably arisen either from the jealousy or too general instructions of the acting governor of the province; whose displeasure, under our present circumstances, I did not think it prudent to excite, especially as I had understood that the Spaniards had it in contemplation to make an establishment at port Bodega, in which case a second visit might have been productive of offence.

In proceeding towards Monterrey we made so little progress, that we were still at no great distance from St. Francisco the next morning, Friday the 25th; when a vessel was descried to the N. N. W. and on standing towards her, she proved to be the Dædalus.

About noon, Lieutenant Hanson came on board, and informed me that he had pursued the route I had directed towards New South Wales. That he had taken from New Zealand two of the natives, in order that they might instruct the inhabitants of port Jackson in the use and management of the flax plant. That he had arrived at the settlement on the 20th of April, 1793, and was in readiness to depart on the 20th of June, but that he did not receive orders from Major Grose until the end of that month; when he put to sea, and passed to the westward of the Society islands, in sight of the island of Scilly, the only land seen between port Jackson and Owhyhee, which was in sight on the 1st of September; and that, after procuring some refreshments amongst those islands, he took his departure on the 8th of that month for Nootka, which land was made the evening we left that port; the Dædalus being the vessel we then saw to the westward. She anchored in Friendly cove the next morning; and having obtained a supply of wood, water, and other necessaries, Mr. Hanson sailed from thence on the 13th of October, agreeably to the directions I had there left for his future proceedings.

Mr. Hanson brought a supply of provisions, and such parts of the stores which I had demanded, as could be procured. From him I learned that Major Grose was very solicitous that I should again attempt the introduction of the cattle of this country into New South Wales; notwithstanding, that out of the number I had before sent thither in the Dædalus, one cow, three ewes, and a ram only, had survived the voyage. The failure of the rest had been attributed to their being too old, and it was therefore hoped that an assortment of young ones would be more successful. With respect to the swine, Mr. Hanson’s endeavours had been attended with greater success, as he had carried from Otaheite, and had landed at Port Jackson, seventy of those animals, which, from the excellency of the breed, must necessarily prove a most valuable acquisition.

The wind continued variable between the south and east, blowing a moderate breeze, and sometimes accompanied with foggy weather; in which, on the evening and night of Monday the 28th, although many guns were fired to denote our situation, we parted company with the Chatham; but the Dædalus kept her station near us. This unpleasant weather continued with little alteration, attended generally by adverse winds, until the morning of Friday the 1st of November, when, with a breeze at W. S. W. and thick hazy weather, we reached Monterrey, where we anchored with the Dædalus about eleven in the forenoon, and moored nearly in our former station. Here we found our consort, which, notwithstanding the disadvantages of the weather, had reached this place on the 30th of the preceding month.

Whilst we were employed in securing the ship, November 1793 I sent an officer to acquaint the governor of our arrival, and of the object of my visit, and also with an offer on my part to salute the garrison, if an equal compliment would be returned.

This being assented to, I waited on Sen^r Arrillaga, the commandant, and was received with the ceremony usual on such occasions; as soon as this was ended, I was preparing to state my reasons for having entered the ports under his government, when he stopped me from proceeding further, and begged that the subject might be referred to a written correspondence, by which mode he conceived matters would be more fully explained. I then made inquiries after the deserters from the Chatham, and was given to understand by Sen^r Arrillaga, that a few days after our departure from hence, in the month of January, they had made their appearance; on which they were taken into custody, and sent prisoners to St. Blas, in order to be removed from thence to Nootka. The armourer, sent on board the Chatham from the mission of St. Carlos, I had promised to return thither, either on receiving the deserters at Nootka, or in the event of their not being taken at the conclusion of the season; he was therefore discharged from the Chatham, and sent on shore.

In the afternoon, on a signal being made from the shore for one of our boats, a Spanish officer was brought off, who delivered to me two letters from Sen^r Arrillaga. One stating, that he was without orders for the reception of foreign vessels into the ports under his jurisdiction, excepting in cases where the rights of hospitality demanded his assistance; and requesting that I would communicate to him the objects that had brought me hither, by which his future determinations would be governed. The other contained expressions desirous of preserving the subsisting harmony; but at the same time stated, that without departing from the spirit of the orders by which his conduct was to be regulated, he could not permit any persons to come on shore, excepting the commander of foreign vessels, with one or two officers; or the individuals employed in procuring wood and water, which service was to be performed with all possible speed; and that the rest of our wants would be supplied with the greatest dispatch on my giving him previous notice.

The tenor of these letters being very different from what my conversation with Sen^r Arrillaga had given me reason to expect, when I visited him at the Presidio; I was reduced to the necessity of sending him the next day, Saturday the 2d, a full explanation of the objects of our voyage, and of the motives that had induced me to enter the ports under his jurisdiction. In this I stated, that I had been intrusted by his Britannic Majesty with a voyage of discovery, and for the exploring of various countries in the Pacific Ocean; of which the north-west coast of America was one of the principal objects. That previously to my departure from England, I had been given to understand, not only that I should be hospitably received on this coast by the subjects of the Spanish crown, but that such information of the progress of my voyage as I might wish to communicate to the Court of Great Britain, would be forwarded by the way of St. Blas by the officers of his Catholic Majesty residing in these ports; and that I was instructed to make a free and unreserved communication of all discoveries made in the course of my researches, to any Spanish officer or officers whom I might chance to meet, engaged in similar pursuits with myself; and that I now purposed to transmit to Sen^r Quadra a copy of my charts and surveys, that had been made since our departure from this port the preceding year. That the voyage in which we were engaged, was for the general use and benefit of mankind, and that under these circumstances, we ought rather to be considered as labouring for the good of the world in general, than for the advantage of any particular sovereign, and that the court of Spain would be more early informed of, and as much benefited by my labours, as the kingdom of Great Britain. That in consequence of these instructions, I had exchanged some charts with Sen^r Quadra, and others were ready for his reception. That I had not only been treated on my former visit here with the greatest friendship, and unbounded hospitality; but had received from his Excellency, the viceroy of Mexico, the strongest assurances, that these attentions had been shewn in compliance with the desire of his Catholic Majesty, and of the orders he had issued for that purpose; and that I had inclosed his Excellency’s letters for his perusal, to certify him, that I did not intend any deception. That our examination and survey would still require another year to complete it; and that I had made choice of this port, or St. Diego, for the purpose of refitting our vessels, unloading the store-ship, and making such astronomical observations as were become necessary for prosecuting our researches with correctness. The manner in which these services would require to be performed on shore I particularly pointed out, and hoped that the officers and people would be permitted the same recreation on foot and on horseback, with which they had been indulged on our former visit, under such limitations and restrictions as he might think proper to prescribe.

On Monday the 4th I received from Sen^r Arrillaga a reply to my letter, in which he was pleased to compliment me upon my ingenuousness; and thanked me for having given him the perusal of the viceroy’s letters. In vindication of himself he said, that there was no royal order for the reception of our vessels, like that produced by M. de la Pérouse. That he did not comprehend that his excellency expected that we should repair a second time to the ports under his jurisdiction; and that even Sen^r Quadra before his departure had given the commander of the garrison to understand, by a letter of which Sen^r Arrillaga sent me a copy, that the attentions we had received on the former occasion were for that time only; and were not to be considered as necessary to be shewn us in future. Notwithstanding however all these objections, being desirous of contributing to the public undertaking in which we were engaged, he requested I would inform him of the precise number of days in which the store-ship could be unloaded; he offered to give me the key of the warehouse at the landing place, for the reception of her cargo, near which we might erect the observatory; and allowed the gentlemen and officers to recreate themselves within sight of the Spanish officer, who should be stationed for the protection of the cargo and observatory; which latter was only to be erected in the day time, as he could not permit any of our people to be on shore between sun-set and sun-rise; and lastly, he had no objection to our recruiting our wood and water, provided all those employed on that service should retire on board at night, and that I would engage that the greatest dispatch should take place in these and all our other transactions.

The situation pointed out by him, where we might be allowed to lodge such of the provisions and stores as required to be landed, was not only inconvenient on account of the surf which generally ran very high in its vicinity, but the place proposed for their reception, was in the midst of the common slaughtering of all their cattle, the neighbourhood of which, to a considerable distance in all directions, was rendered extremely offensive and unwholesome, by the offal having never been cleared away, but left from time to time in a continual state of putrefaction. In addition to which, the stores thus deposited were to be left every night under the care of the governor’s troops, without any check on the fidelity of those people, which I had some reason to believe would be very necessary. In the centre of this intolerable nuisance we had also leave to erect the observatory, and to attend to our astronomical pursuits, but in the day time only; and in its vicinity, and within sight of it and the Presidio, we might be allowed to recreate ourselves on shore.

On due consideration of all these circumstances, I declined any further correspondence with, or accepting the incommodious assistance proffered by Sen^r Arrillaga; and determined, after finishing our investigation of these shores, to retire to the Sandwich islands, where I had little doubt that the uneducated inhabitants of Owhyhee, or its neighbouring isles, would cheerfully afford us that accommodation which had been unkindly denied us at St. Francisco and Monterrey.

The observations made on shore by Mr. Whidbey, with the artificial horizon for ascertaining the longitude by the chronometers, allowing the presumed rate and error as settled off Scot’s islands, and in Nootka sound, shewed by six sets of observations made on two different days at St. Francisco, that Kendall’s chronometer was 11′ 10″; Arnold’s No. 14, 16′ 48″; and No. 176, 6′ 18″; to the westward of the truth, and by four sets of observations made on two different days at this place, Kendall’s chronometer was found to be 4′ 34″, and Arnold’s No. 14, 14′ 13″ to the westward; and No. 176, 15′ 47″ to the eastward of the truth. Hence it appeared that Arnold’s No. 14, was going with greater regularity than any of the others.

As our situation afforded no better means of ascertaining a point of so interesting a nature, the above rate and error was of necessity adopted; subject however to correction by subsequent observations, which was accordingly done, and the longitude so corrected is affixed to all our future situations, as also to the position of the coast and adjacent islands, until our departure from New Albion.

In the forenoon of Tuesday the 5th we unmoored, and about ten at night, with a light southerly breeze, we weighed and sailed out of the bay; but the wind continuing light and variable, we made little progress until the forenoon of Wednesday the 6th, when, with the regular northerly breeze, we hauled in close to point Pinos, and there recommenced our survey of this coast south-eastward from Monterrey.

Point Pinos, as already described to form the south-east point of Monterrey bay, is a low projecting point of land, covered with trees, chiefly the stone pine. From hence the exterior coast takes a direction S. 28 W., about four miles to the north point of the bay of Carmelo, which is a small open and exposed situation, containing some detached rocks; and having a rocky bottom is a very improper place for anchorage. Into this bay flows the river Carmelo, passing the mission of St. Carlos, and at a little distance from the sea, it is said to abound with a variety of excellent fish.

In a direction about E. by S. from St. Carlos, at the distance of about 15 leagues, is the mission of St. Antonio, established in the year 1792.

From the north point of the bay of Carmelo, the coast takes a direction S. by E. four leagues, to a small, high, rocky lump of land, lying about half a mile from the shore, which is nearly barren; indeed, the trees from point Pinos extend a little way only to the southward of the bay of Carmelo, where the mountains rise rather abruptly from the sea; and the naked shores, excepting one or two sandy beaches, are intirely composed of steep rocky cliffs.

Southward from the detached lump of land, the coast, which takes a direction S. 40 E., is nearly straight and compact; the mountains form one uninterrupted, though rather uneven, ridge, with chasms and gullies on their sides; the whole to all appearance nearly destitute of vegetation.

In the evening we hauled our wind, and plied in order to retain our situation, for the purpose of prosecuting our researches in the morning of Thursday the 7th, when, notwithstanding that the wind was favorable to this design, yet the fog prevented my putting it into execution, and we were obliged to stand to windward all that day under an easy sail. Unpleasant weather like this had attended many of our favorable N. W. winds since our departure from port Protection, and in a manner I had not been accustomed to notice. The fog did not in general rise more than ten or twelve degrees above the horizon; above which the atmosphere was clear and pleasant, admitting us frequently to see not only the summits, but also some distance down the sides of the mountains that compose the coast. These now appeared in a double ridge; the interior ones produced forest trees, that shewed their tops above the summits of those that seemed to rise abruptly from the sea shore, the lower parts of which continued to be totally obscured by the density of the fog, until the morning of Friday the 8th, when it in some measure dispersed, and permitted us to see that part of the coast from whence we had stood to sea on the evening of the 6th, and enabled us to ascertain, that, southward from that station, the coast still continued in a direction S. 40 E., and was equally compact. The same wind, with a continuance of thick hazy weather, scarcely allowed us to see from point to point as we sailed along the coast, and prevented our delineating its position with that degree of accuracy and precision I could have wished; though it did not preclude our ascertaining the continuation and connection of the continental shore, which, as we advanced, became less abrupt; and the country, composed of vallies and mountains that gradually descended towards the sea shore, which consisted of alternate rocks and sandy beaches, put on a more agreeable appearance, as vegetation again seemed to exist: some dwarf trees were produced, and the surface was interspersed with a few dull verdant spots.

About nine o’clock we passed a low projecting point, off which lie, at a small distance, two or three rugged detached rocks; the outermost is situated in latitude 35° 42′ longitude 239° 6′; from whence the line of the coast, for a short distance, inclines a few degrees more to the eastward; the mountains fall further back from the water side, and the intermediate country appeared to be a plain, or to rise with a very gradual ascent, for the space of about four leagues along the coast. This land was tolerably well wooded, even close down to the shore; and by the assistance of our glasses some of the trees were seen to be very large, with spreading branches; and being for the greater part distributed in detached clumps, produced a very pleasing effect, and a prospect more fertile than we had lately been accustomed to behold. This difference in the appearance of the country was not confined to inanimate nature, for its inhabitants seemed to benefit by its superior productions, as we soon discovered a canoe approaching us, of a construction I little expected to have met with. Instead of its being composed of straw like those we had seen on our first visit to port St. Francisco, it was neatly formed of wood, much after the Nootka fashion, and was navigated with great adroitness by four of the natives of the country. Their paddles were about ten feet long, with a blade at each end; these they handled with much dexterity, either intirely on one side, or alternately on each side of their canoe. Their exertions to reach us were very great, but as we were favored with a fresh gale, with all sails set, they were not able to come up with us; and I regretted that I could not afford some leisure for a better acquaintance with these people, who seemed, by the ingenuity displayed in their canoe, to differ very materially from those insensible beings we had met in the neighbourhood of St. Francisco and Monterrey.

Our progress by noon brought us to the latitude of 35° 33′, longitude 239° 15½′; in this situation the northernmost part of the coast in sight bore by compass N. W. by W.; a point forming the north point of the bay S. 75 E.; a high conical hill, flat at the top, appearing to be an island in the bay, S. 67 E.; the south point of the bay S. 46 E.; and the nearest shore N. 26 E., two miles distant. At the north point of this bay, which is situated in latitude 35° 31′, longitude 239° 22′, the woodland country ceases to exist, and the shores acquire a quick ascent, with a very uneven surface, particularly in the neighbourhood of the bay. Some detached rocks are about its southern point, which lies from the northern S. 25 E., distant thirteen miles, and is formed by steep cliffs, falling perpendicularly into the ocean. From the line of the two outer points the shores of the bay fell back about five miles; they appeared to be much exposed; and, unless the conical rock is connected with the shores, they did not seem to form any projecting point, but were composed of a sandy beach, that stretched from a margin of low land, extending from the rugged mountains that form the more interior country; from whence four small streams were seen from the mast-head to flow into the bay.

This bay was the first indent in the shores to the southward of Carmelo bay, and, according to the Spanish charts, is called Los Esteros; the north point above mentioned is called Ponto del Esteros, which is placed in Sen^r Quadra’s chart only two miles further south than the situation of it by our observations; but in the printed chart it is placed ten miles further south, and is represented in a different point of view from that in which it had appeared to us.

To the southward of Ponto del Esteros, the whole exterior country had a steril, dreary, unpleasant aspect; yet I had understood that the Spaniards had some establishments, in fertile and pleasant situations, not far from the shores of this neighbourhood. Near the northern parts of the bay was the mission of St. Luis, formed in the year 1772, and about 25 leagues to the north-east of it was another named St. Antonio, established the same year. The precise situation of these missions may be liable to error, as the information respecting them was principally obtained from cursory conversation.

The south point of Esteros forms the north-west extreme of a conspicuous promontory; this takes a rounding direction about S. 36 E., eight miles, where the coast retires again to the eastward, and forms the northern side of an extensive open bay. This promontory is named in the printed chart The Mountain del Buchon, off which, at the distance of about eight leagues, I understood an island had lately been discovered, but we saw nothing of it. Our view however was very confined, occasioned by a very thick haze, sometimes approaching to a fog, which totally prevented our seeing any object further than from two to four leagues in any direction; insomuch that we stood into this bay to the southward of Mount del Buchon, without knowing it to be such, until the south point discovered itself through the haze, at the distance of about three leagues.

This not being named in the Spanish charts, I have, after our friend the commandant at St. Francisco, called it Point Sal; and being in the line of the two points of this bay, they were found to lie from each other S. 40½ E., and N. 40½ W., twenty miles asunder, the nearest part of the bay bearing by compass N. E., was five or six miles distant. As the day was fast declining, we hauled our wind to preserve our situation during the night, with so strong a gale from the N. W. as obliged us to close-reef our topsails. In the morning, the weather being more moderate and the atmosphere more clear, we steered for point Sal, and had a good opportunity of seeing the northern shores of the bay, which like those of Esteros, seemed compact, without any projecting points that would afford shelter or security for shipping.

The interior country consisted of lofty barren mountains, in double and treble ridges, at some distance from the shore; the intermediate land descended gradually from their base, interspersed with eminences and vallies, and terminated on the coast in sandy beaches, or low white cliffs. Point Sal, which is a high steep rocky cliff, projecting from the low shore, with a country of similar appearance to the south of it, is situated in latitude 34° 57′, longitude 239° 43½′, from whence the coast takes a direction S. 4 E. nineteen miles, to another high steep rocky point projecting in the like manner, and rising very abruptly in rugged craggy cliffs. This I called Point Arguello; near it are two or three detached rocks lying close to the shore; the coast between these two points falls a little back to the eastward. The intermediate shores and interior country continued to bear the same appearance; the whole was destitute of wood, and nearly so of other vegetable productions, excepting near a rivulet that we passed about nine in the forenoon, situated from point Arguello N. 12 E., at the distance of about six miles. This appeared to be the largest flow of water into the ocean we had yet seen, excepting that of Columbia river; but the breakers that extended across its entrance, seemed to preclude the possibility of its being navigable even for boats. In the Spanish charts it is called Rio de St. Balardo.

About eleven o’clock we passed point Arguello, from whence the coast takes a direction S. 51 E., ten miles to a point of but little elevated, or rather low, land; this, according to the Spanish charts, is called point Conception, forming the north-west point of entrance into the channel of S^ta Barbara. Being now favored with a fresh N. W. gale, though attended with hazy weather, we were by noon abreast of this point; the observed latitude was 34° 30′, longitude 239° 52′; in this situation the easternmost part of the coast in sight bore by compass E. N. E.; point Conception being the nearest shore, N. 32 E., two or three miles distant; the northernmost part of the coast in sight, N. 48 W.; the westernmost, or first island, forming the channel of S^ta Barbara, called in one of the Spanish charts St. Miguel, in the other St. Barnardo, (the former of which I have adopted) bore from S. 25 E. to S. 32 E.; the next called in one of those charts S^ta Rosa, in the other St. Miguel, (the former of which I have continued) bore from S. 42 E. to S. 54 E.; and a high hill on the third island, called in the Spanish charts S^ta Cruz, bore S. 70 E.

Point Conception is rendered very remarkable, by its differing very much in form from the points we had lately seen along the coast. It appeared to stretch out into the ocean from an extensive tract of low land, and to terminate like a wedge, with its large end falling perpendicularly into the sea, which broke against it with great violence. By our observations it appeared to be in latitude 34° 32′, longitude 239° 54′; the former corresponding with both the Spanish charts within two or three miles, being there placed so much further to the southward.

Immediately to the eastward of Point Conception (the coast from thence taking an eastern direction) we passed a small Indian village, the first we had observed along the shores of these southern parts of New Albion. The inhabitants made a fire the instant we came within their view, but no one ventured to pay us a visit. The prevailing strong gale at the time of our passing probably prevented their embarking.

It is not unlikely that this village was attached to the mission of S^ta Rosa, which I had been informed was established in the vicinity of this point in the year 1788, and had the reputation of being situated in a very fertile country. Another report had stated this mission to be near the banks of the Rio St. Balardo; and, as it is not improbable that the stream may take a southern course from its entrance, both informations may be correct.

The coast continued in this easterly direction about twenty-three miles from point Conception, to a point where it took a southerly turn, from whence the country gradually rose to mountains of different heights. In the vicinity of the shores, which are composed of low cliffs or sandy beaches, were produced some stunted trees and groveling shrubs; and notwithstanding the dreary appearance of the coast as we passed along, it seemed to be well inhabited, as several villages were seen at no great distance from each other in the small bays or coves that form the coast.

By four in the afternoon we had sailed beyond the influence of our favorable N. W. gale, which still continued to blow a little way a-stern of us, whilst we were perplexed with light variable winds from every quarter. With these however, we endeavoured to approach the shores of the main land, in order to anchor for the night. About sun-set we were visited by some of the inhabitants in a canoe from one of the villages. Their visit seemed to be dictated by curiosity alone, which being satisfied, as they were about to depart, I gave them some iron and beads, with which they appeared to be highly delighted, and returned to the shore.

By seven in the evening it was nearly calm, and having at that time soundings at the depth of 37 fathoms, muddy bottom, we anchored in company with the Chatham and Dædalus.

The surface of the sea, which was perfectly smooth and tranquil, was covered with a thick slimy substance, which, when separated, or disturbed by any little agitation, became very luminous, whilst the light breeze that came principally from the shore, brought with it a very strong smell of burning tar, or of some such resinous substance. The next morning, Sunday the 10th, the sea had the appearance of dissolved tar floating upon its surface, which covered the ocean in all directions within the limits of our view; and indicated, that in this neighbourhood it was not subject to much agitation.

From this anchorage, situated in latitude 34° 24′, longitude 240° 32′, the coast as before mentioned takes a southerly turn, S. 48 E. about two leagues to a point bearing by compass N. 81 E. half a league distant from our station; the centre of the island of St. Miguel bore from S. 27 W. distant 11 leagues; S^ta Rosa from S. 11 W. to S. 5 E.; the former 25, the latter 26 miles distant; the island of S^ta Cruz from S. 81 E. to S. 55 E.; and the main land in sight from S. 82 W. to S. 87 E.

The want of wind detaining us in this situation, afforded an opportunity to several of the natives from the different villages, which were numerous in this neighbourhood, to pay us a visit. They all came in canoes made of wood, and decorated with shells like that seen on the 8th. They brought with them some fish, and a few of their ornaments; these they disposed of in the most cheerful manner, principally for spoons, beads, and scissars. They seemed to possess great sensibility, and much vivacity, yet they conducted themselves with the most perfect decorum and good order; very unlike that inanimate stupidity that marked the character of most of the Indians we had seen under the Spanish jurisdiction at St. Francisco and Monterrey. These people either did not understand the Spanish language, or spoke it in such a manner as to be unintelligible to us; for as we were totally unacquainted with their native dialect, we endeavoured, but to no effect, by means of Spanish, to gain from them some information.

On a light breeze springing up from the westward, at about eight o’clock, we directed our course along shore to the eastward; our progress was very slow, owing to light winds, though the weather was very pleasant. About two in the afternoon we passed a small bay, which appeared likely to have afforded good anchorage, had it not been for a bed of sea weed that extended across its entrance, and indicated a shallow rocky bottom.

Within this bay a very large Indian village was pleasantly situated, from whence we were visited by some of its inhabitants; amongst whom was a very shrewd intelligent fellow, who informed us, in the Spanish language, that there was a mission and a Presidio not much further to the eastward. About five in the evening this establishment was discovered in a small bay, which bore the appearance of a far more civilized place than any other of the Spanish settlements. The buildings appeared to be regular and well constructed, the walls clean and white, and the roofs of the houses were covered with a bright red tile. The Presidio was nearest to the sea shore, and just shewed itself above a grove of small trees, producing with the rest of the buildings a very picturesque effect.

As I purposed to anchor somewhere for the night, and as this bay seemed likely not only to answer that purpose, but another equally essential, that of procuring some refreshments, we hauled in, and anchored in six fathoms water, sandy bottom; the southern land in sight, called by the Spaniards Conversion point, bore by compass S. 70 E.; a low cliffy point in the bay N. 42 E.; the Presidio N. 32 W.; the nearest shore N. N. W. distant half a mile; the north-west point of the bay S. 64 W.; the north-west extreme of the island of S^ta Rosa S. 34 W. distant thirty-two miles; its western extreme was shut in with the west point of S^ta Cruz, which bore from S. 22 W. to S. 28 E. seventeen or eighteen miles; the nearest part of that island S. 20 E. distant thirteen miles; and the south-easternmost of the islands in sight S. 28 E.; appearing from our anchorage like a single rock, but consisting of three small islands.

Having thus anchored before the Spanish establishment, I immediately sent Lieutenant Swaine to inform the commanding officer at the Presidio of our arrival, and as I intended to depart in the morning, to request that the Indians, who had shewn a great desire to trade with us, might be permitted to bring us, in the course of the night, such articles of refreshment as they had to dispose of; which, as we understood, consisted of an abundance of hogs, vegetables, fowls, and some excellent dried fish.

Mr. Swaine returned, after meeting with a most polite and friendly reception from the commandant Sen^r Don Felipe Goycochea, who with the greatest hospitality informed Mr. Swaine, that every refreshment the country could afford was perfectly at our command; and desired that I might be made acquainted, that he hoped I would remain a few days to partake of those advantages, and to allow him the pleasure of administering to our wants and necessities.

On his learning from Mr. Swaine which way we were bound, he observed that wood and water would not only be found very scarce, but that a supply could not be depended upon at St. Diego, or any other port to the southward; and if it were necessary that we should replenish our stock of those articles, it would be well to embrace the opportunity which our present situation afforded for so doing.

The general deportment of this officer was evidently the effect of a noble and generous mind; and as this place, which was distinguished by the name of S^ta Barbara, was under the same jurisdiction as St. Francisco and Monterrey, our very friendly reception here rendered the unkind treatment we had received on our late visits at the two other establishments the more paradoxical, and was perhaps only to be referred to the different dispositions of the persons in power.

The intelligence communicated to me by Mr. Swaine, and the polite and liberal conduct we had reason to expect from the commandant, induced me to think of accepting the advantages he had so obligingly offered.

The next morning, accompanied by Lieutenants Puget and Hanson, I paid my respects on shore to Sen^r Don Felipe Goycochea, the commandant of the establishment of S^ta Barbara, and Lieutenant in the Spanish infantry. He received us with the greatest politeness and cordiality, and renewed, with great earnestness, the offers he had made to Mr. Swaine the preceding evening. He was pleased to say, that he should derive the greatest satisfaction in rendering us every service compatible with the orders under which he acted. These orders only required, that those who were employed for the service of the vessels on shore, or engaged in taking their recreation in the neighbouring country, should return on board every night. This stipulation I assured him should be punctually attended to, as well as every other regulation that his prudence might suggest.

We were likewise introduced to Friar Miguel, one of the reverend fathers of the mission of S^ta Barbara, who, in the name of himself, and his companion the Rev. Father Estevan Tapis, expressed the greatest anxiety for our welfare; and repeating the civilities of the commandant, offered whatever services or assistance the mission could afford.

Accompanied by these gentlemen we went from the Presidio, in order to ascertain the spot from whence we were to obtain our wood and water. As the former was to be procured from the holly-leaved oak that grew at some distance from the water side, our reverend father offered us the waggons of the mission, and some Indians to carry the wood, when cut, down to the beach. The cart of the Presidio was directed by the commandant to be at our orders for that or any other service. The water, which was not of the best quality, was in wells close to the sea shore. We were in no imminent want of these necessaries; yet, from the experience of our late retarded progress from light baffling winds, in consequence of the coast taking so easterly a direction, and obstructing the general course of the north-west winds that prevail most part of the year, it was highly probable we might find the same sort of weather further south, as we must necessarily keep near the shore, for the purpose of examining the coast, which I now found would occupy more time than I had supposed. This circumstance, in addition to the information we had received, that the further we advanced the worse we should fare in respect of these essential articles; I thought it prudent, notwithstanding the business appeared likely to be somewhat tedious, to give orders for its being immediately carried into execution; convinced that we should greatly benefit in point of health whilst these services were going forward, by the excellent refreshments the country promised to supply.

The commandant had ordered us to be furnished with fresh meat in such quantities as I might think proper to demand; vegetables and fowls were principally purchased from private individuals, whilst our reverend fathers at the mission, and the commandant, shared the productions of their gardens with us; which, like those of the more northern establishments, were but of small extent.

Since the recreation that had been denied us at Monterrey was here granted without limitation, I felt myself bound to adopt such measures as were most likely to prevent any abuse of the indulgence, or any just cause of complaint. For when I reflected on the unrestrained manner in which most of the officers and gentlemen had rambled about the country, during our former visit at Monterrey, I was not without my suspicions that the unpleasant restrictions imposed upon us on our late return to that port, had been occasioned by our having made too free with the liberty then granted. To prevent the chance of any such offence taking place here, I issued positive injunctions that no individual under my command should extend his excursions beyond the view from the Presidio, or the buildings of the mission, which, being situated in an open country of no very uneven surface, admitted of sufficient space for all the exercise on foot or horseback that health or amusement might require.

Notwithstanding the water on the beach was the same as that with which all the Spanish vessels that had visited this roadstead had been supplied, and although much pains had been taken to clean out the wells, yet they were very dirty and brackish; and as they afforded a very scanty supply, we were induced to make search for better water.

At the distance of only a few yards further than where the wells had been made, a most excellent spring of very fine water was discovered, amongst some bushes, in a kind of morass; and though it flowed but slowly, yet it answered all our purposes, and was obtained with more ease than the water from the wells. This spring was totally unknown to the resident Spaniards, and equally so, I presume, to those employed in their shipping; or they would not so long have been content with the dirty brackish water procured from the wells. At the Presidio is a large well of excellent water, from which also, by the assistance of the cart, a portion of our stock was obtained.

Our business being thus in a train for easy execution, the agreeable society of our Spanish friends, the refreshments we procured, and the daily recreation which the country afforded, rendered our situation at S^ta Barbara extremely pleasant.

We here procured some stout knees from the holly-leaved oak, for the security of the Discovery’s head and bumkins; this, and our other occupations, fully engaged our time until the evening of Sunday the 17th, when preparations were made for sailing on the day following.

The pleasing society of our good friends at the mission and Presidio was this day augmented by the arrival of Friar Vincente S^ta Maria, one of the Rev. Fathers of the mission of Buena Ventura; situated about seven leagues from hence on the sea coast to the south-eastward.

The motives that induced this respectable priest to favor us with his company, evidently manifested his christian-like benevolence. Having crossed the ocean more than once himself, he was well aware how valuable the fresh productions of the shores were to persons in our situation; under this impression he had brought with him, for our service, half a score sheep, and twenty mules laden with the various roots and vegetables from the garden of his mission. This excellently good man earnestly intreated that I would accompany him by land back to Buena Ventura; saying, that I should be better able on the spot to point out to him, and to his colleague the Rev. Friar Father Francisco Dume, such of the productions of the country as would be most acceptable, and contribute most to our future comfort and welfare. Of this journey I should have been very happy to have been able to have availed myself, had the existing circumstances not obliged me to decline the pleasure I should thereby have received.

Our new benevolent friend, accompanied by the commandant and Father Miguel, honoured us with their company to dine on board, where, in the course of conversation, I was informed that the mission of Buena Ventura was situated near a small bay of easy access; and as Friar Vincente seemed much pleased with his visit on board, I requested he would favor me with his company in the Discovery to his residence. This offer he cheerfully accepted, and in doing so I had only reason to regret the short time I was to be indulged with the society of a gentleman, whose observations through life, and general knowledge of mankind, rendered him a most pleasing and instructive companion.

In the evening our friends returned on shore, and I took that opportunity of soliciting their acceptance of a few useful articles which they had no other opportunity of obtaining; though I must confess they were a very incompetent return for their friendly, generous, and attentive services; and I trust they will accept this public acknowledgment as the only means within my reach to shew the grateful sense I shall ever entertain of the obligations they so liberally and unexpectedly bestowed.

We were attended at breakfast the next morning, Monday the 18th, with our friends from the shore; and the want of wind detained us at anchor until near noon; when we took leave of our S^ta Barbara friends, and, accompanied by Father Vincente, we directed our course towards Buena Ventura.

Whilst we remained at S^ta Barbara, Mr. Whidbey, whose time was principally devoted to the several duties on shore, embraced that opportunity of making some necessary astronomical observations with the artificial horizon; the only means we had of ascertaining the latitude, variation, and the longitude by the chronometers. The mean results shewed the latitude, by four meridional altitudes of the sun, to be 34° 24′; the variation, by six sets of azimuths, differing from 11° 14′ to 9°, to be 10° 15′ eastwardly; and the longitude, by eight sets of altitudes of the sun between the 11th and 15th, allowing the error and rate as calculated at Monterrey, was shewn by Kendall’s chronometer to be 240° 45′ 40″; Arnold’s No. 14, 240° 44′ 16″; No. 176, 240° 56′ 45″; and the true longitude deduced from subsequent observations, 240° 43′. As I continued to allow the same rate, the situation of the coast has been laid down by No. 14; and I should hope, by the regularity with which it had lately gone, with some degree of precision. The tide, though shewing here no visible stream, regularly ebbed and flowed every six hours; the rise and fall, as nearly as could be estimated, seemed to be about three or four feet; and it is high water about eight hours after the moon passes the meridian.

To sail into the bay, or more properly speaking the roadstead, of S^ta Barbara, requires but few directions, as it is open and without any kind of interruption whatever; the soundings on approaching it are regular, from 15 to 3 fathoms; the former from half a league to two miles, the latter within a cable and half of the shore. Weeds were seen growing about the roadstead in many places; but, so far as we examined, which was only in the vicinity of our anchorage, they did not appear to indicate shallower water, or a bottom of a different nature. The shores of the roadstead are for the most part low, and terminate in sandy beaches, to which however its western point is rather an exception, being a steep cliff moderately elevated; to this point I gave the name of Point Felipe, after the commandant of S^ta Barbara.

The interior country a few miles only from the water side, is composed of rugged barren mountains, which I was informed rise in five distinct ridges, behind and above each other, a great distance inland towards the E. N. E.; which space is not at present occupied either by the Spaniards, or the native Indians.

After we had passed point Conception, the wind continued to blow in very faint breezes, and our progress was slow along the coast, which rose about two or three leagues to the south-eastward of S^ta Barbara with a steep ascent in rocky cliffs, that mostly composed its shores.

At eight in the evening we anchored in fifteen fathoms water, about a league to the westward of Buena Ventura. Our reverend friend expressed great satisfaction at the mode of his return to the mission; and said, that his voyage hither would probably lay the foundation for removing the absurd and deep-rooted prejudice that had ever existed amongst the several tribes of Indians in his neighbourhood, who from their earliest infancy had invariably regarded all strangers as their enemies. This sentiment had totally prevented any amicable intercourse, or communication between their different societies, although living within a small distance of each other. And it seemed to have been a matter of no small difficulty on the part of the missionaries, to persuade the native inhabitants of the channel of S^ta Barbara, who had been informed of our intention to visit the coast, that we were their friends, and should treat them with kindness and civility; having probably been taught at some earlier period, to consider the English under a very different character. Proofs were not wanting that such notions still continued to exist, for notwithstanding that four or five favorite Indian servants, who attended on father Vincente, had witnessed the cordial reception and friendly intercourse that subsisted between us, yet on his giving them directions to return home with his horses and mules by themselves, as he should go thither in the ship, they instantly, and with one voice, prayed for the sake of God that he would not persist in his determination; being thoroughly convinced that if he did they should never see him more: nor was it in the power of language, either by arguments or assurances, to remove these ill founded impressions. To the last moment they remained with him on the beach, supplicating in the most earnest manner that he would give his attention to their advice; and frequently repeating, that though they had hitherto confided in every thing he had told them, yet in this instance they were sure they should be deceived. The Rev. Father, though gratified by their affectionate anxiety, smiled at their groundless apprehensions for his safety, gave each of them his blessing, and again directed them to follow his orders and return home to Buena Ventura.

We found our situation on the succeeding morning, Tuesday the 19th, to be within about two miles of the shore, its nearest part bearing by compass N. by E., the landing place near the mission of Buena Ventura, S. 68 E., three miles distant; point Conversion S. 62 E.; a group of three islands, called by the natives Enneeapah, (the westernmost being the largest and highest island) from S. 10 E. to S. 1 E.; the island of S^ta Cruz, from S. 23 W., to S. 48 W.; and point Felipe, N. 68 W.

The coast immediately opposite, and to the northward of us, chiefly consisted of high steep cliffs, indented with some small sandy coves. The general face of the country was mountainous, rugged, barren, and dreary; but towards the mission, a margin of low land extended from the base of the mountains, some of which were of great height, and at a remote distance from the ocean; and being relieved by a few trees in the neighbourhood of the establishment, gave this part of the country a less unpleasing appearance.

Having taken an early breakfast, I attended Father Vincente to the shore, where a large assortment of refreshments was in readiness for embarkation. The violence of the surf prevented our landing, nor was it without the greatest caution and circumspection that the Indians, though very dexterous in the management of their canoes, could venture off to us. From these people I understood, that this inconvenience was unusual, and that about noon, or towards the evening, it would probably subside, so as to permit our landing. We therefore determined to wait, and in the mean time the canoes brought off some of the good things which our reverend friend had ordered to be provided, consisting of sheep, fowls, roots, and other vegetables in such abundance, that it required four boats to convey them to the ships.

In this situation we waited at a grapnel until the afternoon; when finding the surf not sufficiently abated to admit of our landing in perfect safety, and my reverend friend not having sufficient courage to venture on shore in any of the canoes, after several had been filled and overset, we returned on board; not a little mortified at the disappointment, which seemed to damp the spirits and lively conversation of our worthy guest. When about half way to the ship, the uneasiness of Father Vincente was greatly increased by his recollecting, that he had intrusted both his bible and prayer book to the care of a faithful servant, with the strongest injunctions to deposit them securely on shore; this service had been punctually performed; for on our return, these spiritual comforts, with which he had too hastily parted, had been forgotten to be recalled. The omission produced no small addition to the dejection of spirits that had already taken place, and which became almost insupportable by an untoward accident, that for a moment presented a situation of danger, until it was discovered to proceed from the plug having unfortunately worked out of the boat’s bottom, by which means a great quantity of water was received, and kept increasing until the cause was found out and removed; when the effect instantly ceased, and the boat was soon relieved. Yet this accident, amidst other misfortunes and disappointments, appeared to the good priest a matter of the most serious concern, and might perhaps be a little aggravated by some smiles at his distress, which it was impossible to suppress.

Our excellent friend was now so much disconcerted, and his spirits so depressed, that I found it as difficult to convince him that we should arrive safe at the ship, as he had before found it to persuade his trusty servants of his security in embarking with us at S^ta Barbara; and I verily believe that at this moment he heartily repented that he had not yielded to their advice.

We were however soon alongside, and our friend was by no means reluctant to leave the boat; when on board the ship he soon recovered from his former apprehensions of danger, yet the absence of his books was still a matter of regret and vexation that he could not overcome; and unfortunately it was out of our power to afford him any consolation, as those we had on board were in a language he did not understand. His servants being aware of the uneasiness which the want of these religious comforts would occasion their master, came on board in the evening with the bible and prayer book, without either of them having been wetted by the waters of the ocean, to preserve them against which had been an object of much care and attention. The very great comfort this circumstance imparted was too evident in the countenance of our worthy friend to pass unnoticed. He immediately retired, and after having been closeted about three quarters of an hour, he returned to supper, and was as cheerful, and in the same high spirits, as before these uncomfortable events had happened. I then took an opportunity of apologizing for our smiles in the boat, and I believe we obtained perfect forgiveness, as he laughed heartily at the adventures of the day, and the evening passed in the most cheerful manner.

Such are the happy effects resulting from a religious education, and such the consolations that are derived by the habitual exercise of the principles it inculcates.

Whilst deprived of those comforts to which in the hour of peril or misfortune he had been taught to resort, I am convinced the mind of our friend was far from being in an enviable state; but when the opportunity was afforded him of conscientiously discharging the sacred duties which he felt it incumbent upon him to perform, I believe there were few in the world with whom he would have wished to have changed conditions.

The next morning, Wednesday the 20th, we had an early visit from some of the Indians, who came to inform Father Vincente that the surf was intirely abated, and that he might land in the most perfect security. His anxiety to get on shore induced me to lose no time in making another attempt, leaving directions, in the event of our being able to land, for the vessels to proceed along the coast as soon as the sea breeze should set in, where I would join them off the mission.

When we reached the shore the surf still ran very high, but with the assistance of our light small boat we landed with great ease, perfectly dry, and much to the satisfaction of our worthy companion; of whose bounty there was yet remaining near the beach a large quantity of roots, vegetables, and other useful articles, with five head of cattle, in readiness to be sent on board. One of these being a very fine young bull was taken on board alive, for the purpose of being carried if possible to Owhyhee. The others were killed, and produced us an ample supply; had they not been sufficient, a greater number were at hand, and equally at our disposal.

Our hospitable friend now conducted us towards the establishment, which was situated about three quarters of a mile from the water side; from whence we had not advanced many paces before the road became crowded with Indians of both sexes, and of all ages, running towards us. This assemblage I at first attributed to curiosity, and the desire of seeing strangers, but I was soon agreeably undeceived, and convinced that it was not to welcome us, but the return of their pastor and benefactor. Although it was yet very early in the morning, the happy tidings had reached the mission; from whence these children of nature had issued, each pressing through the crowd, unmindful of the feeble or the young, to kiss the hand of their paternal guardian, and to receive his benediction. His blessings being dispensed, the little multitude dispersed in various directions.

With us, as strangers, their curiosity was very soon satisfied, a few only accompanying us to the mission. These made many inquiries of Father Vincente how he had fared, and how he had been treated on board the ship; to all which his answers were returned in such pleasing terms of kind familiarity, as apparently afforded them great satisfaction, whilst it produced in them much surprize. This convention we were only able to understand through his interpretation, as it was held in the Indian language, which Father Vincente spoke very fluently.

On our entering the mission we were received by Father Francisco Dume, and entertained in a manner that proved the great respectability of the Franciscan order, at least of that part of their numerous community with whom we had become acquainted.

The morning, which was most delightfully pleasant, was employed in viewing the buildings of the mission, the arrangement of the gardens, and cultivated land in its immediate vicinage. These all appeared to be in a very superior stile to any of the new settlements I had yet seen, and would have tempted me to have made a more minute inquiry, had not my anxious desire for proceeding onward prohibited the delay it would necessarily have occasioned.

The day passed most agreeably in the society of our ecclesiastical friends; and the pleasure of it was greatly heightened by the arrival of a mail from Europe in its way to Monterrey. By this conveyance our reverend friends had intelligence from the old world, that could not fail of being very interesting to persons in our situation. Thus we concluded a very pleasant day, and in the evening returned to the vessels, which had been prevented moving by the calmness of the weather.

On attempting to weigh with a gentle breeze of wind from the westward on the morning of Thursday the 21st, the tenacity of the bottom proved too strong for our cable, and it parted near the clench. This accident kept us employed the whole of the day; and after breaking all the best hawsers we had then remaining, the anchor was at length recovered by sweeping it with the stream cable late in the evening. This unlooked-for detention was highly mortifying, as the westerly breeze blew a cheerful gale from day-light until dark, for the first time since we had entered the channel of S^ta Barbara.

With light baffling winds from the north-east quarter, and some slight showers of rain, we directed our course on the morning of Friday the 22d to the south-eastward, gratefully thankful for the hospitable reception and benevolent donations of our religious friends at Buena Ventura.

The anchorage we had just quitted, was according to our observations by two meridional altitudes of the sun, in latitude 34° 16′; and the longitude by six sets of altitudes, on two different days, was 241° 2′. In consequence of the general serenity of the weather almost throughout the year, according to the information I obtained, the roadstead may be considered as a tolerably good one, and anchorage may be had nearer the shore in the vicinity of the mission; but neither situations are so commodious as at S^ta Barbara, being much more exposed to the south-east winds and oceanic swell, which frequently render the communication with the shore very unpleasant.

At noon our observed latitude was 34° 10′, longitude 241° 4′. In this situation the isles of Enneeapah bore by compass from N. 4 E. to S. 20 W.; the island of S^ta Cruz, from S. 36 W. to S. 61 W.; the westernmost part of the main land in sight, W. N. W., the nearest shore N. E. by N., four or five miles distant, point Conversion, N. 84 E., and the southernmost land in sight, S. 85 E.

Point Conversion was passed in the afternoon, and found to be situated in latitude 34° 9′, longitude 241° 9′. The shores from Buena Ventura, which as far as this point continued low and flat, produced some small trees and shrubs; but from hence they again assumed a steep and rugged form.

From our anchorage this morning, as we advanced towards the shore to the south-east of the mission, our depth of water regularly decreased to eight fathoms, within two miles of the shore of the main land; but by noon it had increased to 14, and by five in the afternoon to 46 fathoms. At this time the westernmost part of the main land in sight bore by compass N. 55 W.; point Conversion, N. 45 W.; the easternmost part of the main land in sight N. 65 E.; and the isles of Enneeapah from S. 63 W. to west. On passing these isles we were nearer to them than to any other of the islands in the channel S^ta Barbara; the whole of which wore the same barren appearance, and were now seen as we passed to be composed of rugged rocks, nearly destitute of wood and verdure. The westernmost, already stated to be the largest, is about a league in length from north to south, and about two miles in breadth; its centre is situated in latitude 34° 1½′, longitude 240° 56½′. The easternmost of these isles, about two miles in circuit, lies from the above N. 80 E., at the distance of about a league, and the south-east point of the island of S^ta Cruz lies from the same station S. 80 W., distant four miles and an half.

The night was nearly calm as was the succeeding day, Saturday the 23d, so that in twenty-four hours we had not advanced more than about sixteen miles along the coast, nor was our progress much accelerated afterwards; for by noon of Sunday the 24th, we had only reached the latitude of 33° 54′, longitude 241° 42′. In this situation point Conversion was still in sight, bearing by compass N. 71 W.; here the coast took a direction S. 67 E., sixteen miles to the north point of a deep bay, off which lie two or three small rocks; this point, which I called Point Dume, bore N. 59 W.; the south point of the same bay, being the easternmost part of the main land in sight S. 67 E.; this being a very conspicuous promontory, I named after Father Vincente; the island S^ta Catalina, (so called by the Spaniards) the easternmost of the group, forming the channel of S^ta Barbara, from S. 40 E. to S. 19 E.; a small island, called by the Spaniards S^ta Barbara, S. 25 W., distant 12 leagues; and the isles of Enneeapah west, at the same distance. Our situation was before an extensive bay, at the distance of about three leagues from its nearest shores. These appeared to be compact, and the whole bay to be open and exposed; but our distance from its termination, or bottom, which was nearly four leagues, was too great to ascertain any thing respecting it with certainty; and the light prevailing wind, blowing directly on the shore, would not admit of a more minute survey without much retarding our progress along the coast, which had already occupied more time than I wished, or could well spare for its examination; and which on our departure from Monterrey I had expected would ere now have been drawing nearly to a conclusion.

The north-west side of this bay was observed to be composed chiefly of steep barren cliffs; the north and eastern shores terminated in low sandy beaches, rising with a gradual ascent until they reached the base of a mountainous country, which had the appearance of being rugged and barren, not only at some distance behind the centre of the bay, but extending towards the sea coast, and forming its extreme points, viz. point Vincente, and point Dume; which lie from each other S. 51 E., and N. 51 W., 26 miles asunder.

According to the Spanish charts, I at first supposed this bay to be that which is there called the bay of St. Pedro; but I was afterwards informed that conjecture was ill founded. I had also been given to understand that a very advantageous settlement is established on a fertile spot somewhere in this neighbourhood within sight of the ocean, though at the distance of some miles from the coast, called Pueblo de los Angelos, “the country town of the Angels,” formed in the year 1781. This establishment was looked for in all directions, but nothing was perceived that indicated either habitations or inhabitants.

In the evening we passed point Vincente, composed of steep barren cliffs, and forming the north-west extremity of a conspicuous promontory that takes a direction S. 70 E., near ten miles, to a point in latitude 33° 42½′, longitude 242° 3′. This point, which after the father president of the Franciscan order I called Point Fermin, is the west point of the bay, from whence its western shores take a northerly direction, and constitute a projecting promontory between two bays, the shores of which terminate on all sides in steep cliffs of a light yellowish colour. These extend along the north-western shore of the supposed bay of St. Pedro about a league, where they seemed to end, having a small island lying off their northern extremity, beyond which the bay appeared to retire to the north-westward, probably affording anchorage and shelter; but near point Fermin soundings could not be gained with 90 or 100 fathoms of line, or I would have stopped to have given this bay a more minute examination.

At day-light in the morning of Monday 25th, we found ourselves driven much further from the land than I had expected, and intirely past the bay to the south-eastward; the northern and eastern sides of it were now seen to be composed of a low country, terminating in alternate low white cliffs and sandy beaches. On this low extensive tract some small trees and shrubs were produced, but the interior country, which still consisted of rugged lofty mountains, presented a dreary and steril appearance.

At noon the latitude was 33° 36′, longitude 242° 11′. In this situation the easternmost land in sight bore by compass S. 83 E.; the south-east point of the island S^ta Catalina S. 13 W., distant 17½ miles; its north point S. 48 W., distant 14 miles; and its north-west point S. 62 W., 23 miles; point Vincente N. 67 W., and point Fermin N. 59 W. In the latitude of this point we differed some miles from that assigned to it by the Spaniards; Sen^r Quadra’s chart placing it in latitude 33° 50′, and the printed chart in latitude 33° 54′.

This situation would equally well correspond with the description of the bay of St. Pedro, as that we had been off the preceding day; yet, from the shape, appearance, and other circumstances attending the bay now before us, I had reason to conclude this to be the bay of St. Pedro.

Towards its south-east part is a small bay or cove, and a low point of land forming its east point, called by me Point Lasuen, bore by compass at noon, N. 40 E., distant seven miles. In the neighbourhood of that station I had been informed was the mission of St. Gabriel, founded in the year 1773; this establishment is said to be in sight also of the sea, but we were not able to discern it, or the Pueblo de los Angelos; yet had great reason to believe that their respective situations corresponded with the intelligence I had received.

The wind continuing light and variable, rendered our progress still excessively slow; by the evening, however, I considered that we had reached the south-east extremity of the channel of S^ta Barbara, having sight of the island of St. Clement, (so called by the Spaniards) and which we found to lie S. 18 W., distant about five or six leagues from the south-east point of the island of S^ta Catalina.

Thus finished our tedious examination of the continental shore of this channel; and although we were able nearly to ascertain the positive, as well as relative, situation of the different islands forming its south-west side, yet we passed at too great a distance for the delineation of those shores with that degree of accuracy, that may be depended upon with confidence.

There are some rocks and shoals introduced in the Spanish charts which we saw nothing of; and, excepting the very light and baffling winds that prevailed, there were neither currents nor any other obstruction, so far as our examination went, to interrupt its navigation; which, to those who may have occasion only to pass through it, will be found neither difficult nor unpleasant.

Early the next morning, Tuesday 26th, we were favored with a light breeze from the westward; with this we steered along the land, and by 9 in the forenoon, being within about 2 miles of the shore, our attention was suddenly called to a Spanish establishment erected close to the water side, in a small sandy cove, near the centre of which was a little detached rock, and another lying off its north point. The former is represented in the Spanish charts as a small island lying nearly three miles from the shore, yet we passed it within half that distance, and could scarcely discern that it was detached. Its appearance, and situation relative to the mission of St. Juan Capistrano, corresponding with the description I had received of that settlement, made me conclude it to be the same, and that it is the last establishment between S^ta Barbara and the Presidio of St. Diego.

This mission is very pleasantly situated in a grove of trees, whose luxuriant and diversified foliage, when contrasted with the adjacent shores, gave it a most romantic appearance; having the ocean in front, and being bounded on its other sides by rugged dreary mountains, where the vegetation was not sufficient to hide the naked rocks, of which the country in this point of view seemed to be principally composed.

The buildings of the mission were of brick and of stone, and in their vicinity the soil appeared to be of uncommon and striking fertility. It was founded in the year 1776, and is in latitude 33° 29′, longitude 242° 35′. The landing on the beach in the cove seemed to be good; and had it not been for the very favorable gale with which we were now indulged, I should have been tempted to have passed a few hours at this very enchanting place.

The observed latitude, at noon, was 33° 23′, longitude 242° 41′. The easternmost land in sight bore by compass S. 70 E.; the nearest shore N. 12 E., distant three miles; the mission of St. Juan Capistrano N. 40 W.; and the westernmost land in sight N. 49 W. From the cove of this mission the coast takes first a direction S. 45 E., 7 leagues, and then S. 16 E., 26 miles, to a point in latitude 32° 51′, longitude 242° 59′, forming the north point of the bay in which is situated Puerto Falso; the shores between this point and the above cove are in general straight, and intirely compact. The face of the country here assumed a more uniform appearance, and rose from the sea coast, which chiefly consisted of sandy beaches or low cliffs, with a gradual ascent. It was broken into some chasms and vallies, where a few small trees and shrubs in two or three places were seen to vegetate.

We plied as usual during the night with a light breeze from the E. S. E., having in and about the bay soundings from 65 to 23 fathoms, mud and sandy bottom. The land wind blew a moderate breeze on the morning of Wednesday the 27th, with which we stood to the southward along shore; but the weather was so excessively hazy as to prevent our seeing about us until after eight o’clock, when we discovered ourselves to be near the south-west point of entrance into port St. Diego, called by the Spaniards Ponta de la Loma, bearing by compass S. 57 E. distant three or four miles; the northernmost of some small islands, named by the Spaniards the Coronados, S. 15 E. and the Lagoon, that is to say, Puerto Falso, N. N. E. four miles distant. Point Loma is the southern extremity of a remarkable range of elevated land, that commences from the south side of Puerto Falso, and at a distance has the appearance of being insular, which effect is produced by the low country that connects it with the other mountains. The top of this tract of land seems to terminate in a ridge, so perfect and uniformly sharp, as apparently to render walking very inconvenient. The fact, however, is not so; but when viewed from sea, it has that singular appearance. It descends in very steep rocky cliffs to the water side, from whence a bed of growing weeds extends into the ocean, half a league, or two miles.

The land wind died away as noon approached, and was succeeded by a gentle breeze from the N. W. with which we steered towards point Loma, through a continuation of the bed of weeds, extending in a south-westerly direction from that point, whence lie some breakers at the distance of a mile. Our soundings on first entering the weeds were 20 fathoms; this depth gradually, though not very regularly, decreased to six fathoms as we passed within about a mile of the southern part of the breakers; then deepened again to nine fathoms, and so continued until we entered the channel leading into port St. Diego, across which is a bar. This we passed in three fathoms and a half water, and, favored with the assistance of the flood tide, we turned into the port; where, about two in the afternoon, we anchored in ten fathoms water, fine sandy bottom, at the usual place of anchorage in the harbour. Point de la Loma, in a line with the south-easternmost of the Coronados, bore by compass S. 8 E.; ponta de Guiranos, a low spit of land, projecting from the high steep cliffs within the former, and which, properly speaking, constitutes the west point of entrance into the port, S. 18 E.; the east point of entrance, which is also very low, but not a spit of land, bore S. 36 E.; the former distant about a mile, the latter about three fourths of that distance. The Presidio of St. Diego bore N. 21 E. distant three miles and a half, and the nearest shore north-west, within a quarter of a mile of our anchorage.

Having taken this station without having seen, or been visited by, any of his Catholic Majesty’s subjects, I dispatched Lieutenant Swaine immediately up the harbour to the Presidio, in order to inform the commanding officer of our arrival; and to inquire if any dispatches for me had been entrusted to his care, or if he knew of any that had passed this station on their way to Monterrey; as St. Diego is invariably the stopping place of the post passing from New Spain to their northern establishments on this coast. Mr. Swaine was likewise directed to inquire, whether the officer so commanding would do me the favor of forwarding such dispatches as I might find necessary to transmit to England.

During the absence of Mr. Swaine I received a very polite letter from Sen^r Antonio Grajero, a lieutenant in the Spanish cavalry, and commandant of this port and establishment, requesting to be informed of the business that had brought our little squadron within the limits of his command.

Mr. Swaine returned soon afterwards, and acquainted me that he had been received with marks of great politeness and hospitality by the commanding officer, who informed him, that he had neither seen nor heard of any letters or other dispatches addressed to me; but that he would with great pleasure take charge of, and forward to Europe, any thing of that nature which I might have occasion to transmit. He very obligingly assured Mr. Swaine, that such refreshments as the country afforded were perfectly at our command, and that it would be his study to shew us every civility within the line prescribed by the orders under which he acted; but was sorry to observe, that these would reduce his power of rendering us service, much within the limits of his inclination.

So polite and friendly a reception could not fail being extremely acceptable, and after making a satisfactory reply to the letter I had received from Sen^r Grajero, I intimated my intention of paying him my respects on the following morning.

This visit accordingly took place, accompanied by Lieutenants Puget and Hanson. On landing we found horses in waiting for us, on which we rode up to the Presidio, where we were received with that politeness and hospitality we had reason to expect from the liberal behaviour of the commandant on the preceding evening. His friendly offers were immediately renewed, and were accompanied by similar assurances of assistance from Sen^r Don Jose Zuniga, the former commandant, who had recently been promoted to the rank of captain of infantry, and appointed to the charge of an important post on the opposite side of the gulph of California, for which place he was then preparing to depart.

These gentlemen informed us, that having been given to understand it was my intention to visit this port they had long expected us, and that about four days before, on being informed of the probability of our arrival, they had, to their great mortification, received at the same time from Sen^r Arrillaga such a list of restrictions as would inevitably deprive both parties of that satisfaction that could not otherways have failed to render our stay here very pleasant. These orders prohibited our transacting any business on shore, excepting that of procuring wood and water; particularly directed that the store-ship should not be unladen at St. Diego; and expressed, that when the above supplies were furnished, which was to be done with all possible expedition, it was expected that we should immediately depart. We were also prohibited from taking on board any live cattle or sheep, with many other severe and inhospitable injunctions.

Notwithstanding these very ungenerous directions, our friends here desired that I would not abstain from demanding such refreshments as the country afforded; as their services should be at our command in every respect, and on all occasions, where they could possibly exert themselves, and appear to keep within the limits of the orders by which, although contrary to their own inclinations, they were now compelled to govern their conduct.

The charts of our summer’s survey we had no December 1793 opportunity of copying whilst at sea, with a sufficient degree of accuracy; this business, therefore, fully occupied our time until Friday the 6th of December, without any circumstance occurring in this interval worthy of recording. When these were completed, I confided them, together with due information of the progress of our voyage up to this period to the care of Sen^r Don Antonio Grajero, contained in two packets addressed to the Secretary of the Admiralty; as also a packet for Sen^r Quadra, at St. Blas, containing, agreeably to my promise, a copy of our discoveries during the last season, for the service and information of his Catholic Majesty. These the commandant very obligingly took care of, and gave me every assurance that they should be forwarded with the greatest punctuality and dispatch.

The wind coming from the south prevented our sailing on Saturday the 7th, as I intended; but I did not regret the detention, as it afforded us the pleasure of a visit from our very highly esteemed and venerable friend the Father president of the missionaries of the Franciscan order in this country, who was then on a visitation to the several missions between St. Francisco and this port, where he had arrived the preceding evening from St. Juan Capistrano. He expressed much concern that our departure was so near at hand, since the great fertility of St. Juan’s would have enabled him to add abundantly to our stock of refreshments. Although I was not less thankful for these offices of kindness than convinced of the sincerity with which they were made, yet I was under the necessity of declining them, having now determined to embrace the earliest opportunity of proceeding on our survey.

I had great difficulty to prevail on the father president to desist from sending to St. Juan’s for the supplies he had proposed, as in all probability we should have sailed before they could have arrived from thence.

The enjoyment of the society of this worthy character was of short duration; it however afforded me the satisfaction of personally acknowledging the obligations we were under for the friendly services that had been conferred upon us, by the missionaries under his immediate direction and government; being perfectly assured, that however well disposed the several individuals might have been to have shewn us the kind attention we had received, the cordial interest with which the father president had, on all occasions, so warmly espoused our interests, must have been of no small importance to our comfort. This consideration, in addition to the esteem I had conceived for his character, induced me to solicit his acceptance of a handsome barrelled organ, which, notwithstanding the vicissitudes of climate, was still in complete order and repair. This was received with great pleasure, and abundant thanks, and was to be appropriated to the use and ornament of the new church at the presidency of the missions at St. Carlos.

A continuation of southerly winds caused us to be detained, contrary to my expectations, until Monday the 9th, when we quitted the port of St. Diego. I felt myself greatly indebted for the hospitable attentions shewn us by our friends at the mission, as well as by those at the Presidio of St. Diego, for which, after making the most grateful acknowledgments I could express, I requested they would accept a few useful and necessary articles that they were not likely to procure through any other channel; and I had the gratification of seeing they were thankfully received.

Although we did not make any survey of the port of St. Diego, it may not be improper to state a few particulars relative to it, that came under our observation during the time we were there stationary. The mission of St. Diego is not within sight of the sea, nor of the port; it is situated in a valley within the view of, and about two miles distant from, the Presidio to the north-east; which was the only building seen from our anchorage.

The sharp ridge of land, mentioned on the 27th of the preceding month, is connected with the other mountains by an isthmus, or tract of very low land, which in the rainy season is flooded, and at high spring tides makes the sharp land, forming the west and north-west side of the port, an island. The Presidio is on the continental side of this low sandy isthmus. The peninsula bears a very different appearance when seen from the port, from that before described as observed from the ocean. It descends with an uneven surface, and some bushes grow on it, but no trees of a large size.

From the Presidio, south-eastward, the eastern side of the port is bounded by high land as far as its head, from whence a narrow tract of low land projects, covered with bushes, and forming the inner or upper harbour of the port; its north-west extremity was the eastern shore under which we anchored, and to which station we had been principally directed by a plan of the port published by Mr. Dalrymple in the year 1782. This plan in point of correctness is justly intitled to much praise, but was yet capable, as far as came under my observation, of the following little improvements. The scale representing five nautical miles should only subtend three miles and a half; the shoals of Barros de Zooniga, though well placed, instead of being two distinct shoals, ought to have been one intire shoal, stretching something further to the N. W. and S. E. than is therein represented; and the soundings between Barros de Zooniga and the land of ponta de la Loma (which is omitted) are in no part, from the south extremity of the former directly across to the latter, more than four fathoms at high water, and from a narrow bar from the shore to the shoal, gradually deepening as well on the inside as on the outside of the bar, with a regular increase in mid-channel, from five close to the shore, to ten fathoms between the two low points that form the entrance of the port. This channel between the point de la Loma and the shoal is the only navigable passage for shipping; that to the north-eastward of the shoal does not anywhere exceed half a mile in width, which, with its shallow depth of water, renders it ineligible excepting for boats, or vessels of very small draught. The port however affords excellent anchorage, and is capable of containing a great number of vessels; but the difficulty, nay almost impossibility, of procuring wood and water under its present circumstances, reduces its value as a port of accommodation.

At the distance of about eight leagues, somewhere about N. 55 W. or N. 60 W., from point de la Loma, by a very uncertain estimation, is situated an island called St. John’s; between which and the coast we passed without seeing it, nor did we observe it whilst we remained at anchor; excepting on one very clear evening, when it was seen from the Presidio, at a time when I was unprovided with a compass, or any other means of ascertaining its direction, and was therefore only able to guess at its situation. It appeared to be low and flat, is but seldom seen from the Presidio of St. Diego, and was undiscovered until seen by Martinez a few years before in one of his excursions along this coast.

The Coronados already mentioned consist of two islets and three rocks, situated in a south direction, four or five leagues from point de la Loma, occupying the space of five miles, and lying N. 35 W. and S. 35 E. from each other. The southernmost, which, in point of magnitude, is equal to all the rest collectively taken, is about a mile broad and two miles long, and is a good mark to point out the port of St. Diego, which however is otherwise sufficiently conspicuous not easily to be mistaken.

I shall conclude our transactions at St. Diego, by stating such astronomical and nautical observations as were made there, with those that had been made previously to our arrival and after our departure from that port, for the purpose of ascertaining the rates and correcting the errors of our chronometers; which, notwithstanding the restrictive orders that had been received at St. Diego, I had been enabled to accomplish to the utmost of my desires and expectations.

Astronomical and Nautical Observations.

The vertical inclination of the magnetic needle,

The tides were found to run in general about two knots, though faster at spring tides, six hours each way. High water nine hours after the moon passes the meridian.

The situations of the different parts of the coast, from Monterrey, are corrected, and laid down, from the result of the above observations. The rates and errors of the chronometers having been ascertained by observations made with the artificial horizon at St. Diego.

Having quitted St. Diego, we were soon assisted by a pleasant breeze from the N. W. with which our course was directed along the coast, passing by the narrow tract of land that forms the inner harbour of that port, and divides it from an open bay on the external coast, between point de la Loma, and a high bluff point lying from it S. 35 E., about twelve miles distant. We passed between this bluff point and the Coronados, the latter lying about seven miles from the former, from whence the continent took a direction S. 18 E., six leagues. The shores are composed of steep rocky cliffs, which in general rise, though not very abruptly, to a very hilly country, remarkable for three conspicuous mountains, intirely detached from each other; rising in quick ascent at a little distance from the shore, on nearly a plain and even surface. The northernmost of these presented the appearance of a table, in all directions from the ocean. The middle one terminated in a sharp peak, and the southernmost in an irregular form. The centre one of these remarkable mountains lies from port St. Diego S. 35 E., distant nine leagues, and at a distance may serve to point out that port. Not far from these eminences is situated, as I was informed, the mission of St. Miguel, established in the year 1787; but it was not seen, owing probably to the approach of night. This was passed as usual in standing to and fro, though unattended with that serenity that we had lately been accustomed to; for the wind at N. E. and east blew a strong gale, attended by very heavy squalls, that made it difficult to preserve our station near the coast; which on the following morning, Tuesday the 10th, was about two leagues from us, consisting of high steep rocky cliffs rising abruptly from the sea, and composing a craggy mountainous country. The direction of the shores was S. 32 E. towards a conspicuous bay; this we were prevented from entering by the wind blowing nearly in a direction from it, and which by eight in the morning obliged us to close-reef the fore- and maintopsails, and hand the mizentopsail; the two topsails in the course of the next hour were both split and torn to pieces, but by the time they were replaced the gale had greatly abated; yet it continued adverse to our entering the bay. This I much regretted, as I wished to have given it a more minute examination, because it had every appearance of affording shelter, and towards its upper part of proving a good harbour.

During the forenoon immense columns of smoke were seen to arise from the shore in different parts, but principally from the south-east or upper part of the bay, which towards noon obscured its shores in that direction. These clouds of smoke, containing ashes and dust, soon enveloped the whole coast to that degree, that the only visible part was the south point of the above-mentioned bay, bearing by compass N. 42 E., about four miles from us; the observed latitude at this time was 31° 40′, longitude 243° 31½′. The easterly wind still prevailing, brought with it from the shore vast volumes of this noxious matter, not only very uncomfortable to our feelings, but adverse to our pursuit, as it intirely hid from our view every object at the distance of an hundred yards. On this account I shortened sail, in order to wait a more favorable opportunity for continuing our examination.

This bay, being the first opening on the coast to the south of St. Diego, is undoubtedly that distinguished by the Spaniards by the name of Todos Santos; though we found a manifest difference in its position from that assigned to it in the Spanish charts. That of Sen^r Quadra places its south point, called by me Point Grajero, in latitude 32° 17′, the printed chart in 32° 25′; both charts correctly notice the rocky islets and rocks, that extend from it N. 50 W., about a league distant, give to point Grajero a sharp turn to the south-east, and in other respects represent the bay much as it appeared to us; the former more particularly so; yet by our observations, which were extremely good and to be confided in, point Grajero was found to be situated in latitude 31° 43′, longitude 243° 34′. I was informed, that in the neighbourhood of this bay the mission of St. Thomas, established in the year 1790, is situated. This had also escaped our notice, in consequence most likely of the density of the atmosphere, which obscured these regions until four o’clock in the afternoon, when the easterly wind died away, and was succeeded by a light breeze from the southward, which dispersed the smoke, and discovered to us that we were some miles to the south of the bay. The night was spent as usual, and the next morning, Wednesday the 10th, we passed a cluster of detached rocks lying about half a league from a small projecting point, that forms a bay or cove on either side of it; but these being still obscured with the smoke, their extent could not be ascertained. These rocks lie from point Grajero, S. 12 E., distant about three leagues. At noon the observed latitude was 31° 27′, the longitude 243° 41′. At this time the cluster of rocks bore by compass N. 34 W., the nearest shore N. 36 E., distant about three miles; the southernmost land in sight S. 66 E., and point Grajero, N. 27 W., at the distance of sixteen miles.

Two opinions had arisen as to the cause of the very disagreeable clouds of smoke, ashes, and dust, in which we had been involved the preceding day. Volcanic eruptions was naturally the first conjecture; but after some little time, the opinion changed to the fire being superficial in different parts of the country; and which, by the prevalence and strength of the north-east and easterly wind, spread to a very great extent. The latter opinion this morning evidently appeared to be correct. Large columns of smoke were still seen rising from the vallies behind the hills, and extending to the northward along the coast; this seemed the line of direction which the fire took, excluding the country from our view to the north of Todos Santos. To the south of us the shores exhibited manifest proofs of its fatal effects, for burnt tufts of grass, weeds, and shrubs, being the only vegetable productions, were distinguished over the whole face of the country, as far as with the assistance of our glasses we were enabled to discern; and in many places, at a great distance, the rising columns of smoke shewed that the fire was not yet extinguished. Under these circumstances, it cannot be matter of surprize that the country should present a desolate and melancholy appearance. The smaller portions of smoke which rose in various places directed our glasses in quest of inhabitants, but neither these nor any habitations, were seen within the limits of our examination.

Light winds and long nights rendered our progress so slow, that by the evening our researches had not extended more than eight leagues along the coast from Todos Santos, where we gained soundings in 30 fathoms water, about two miles from the shore; this from point Grajero takes a direction S. 35 E., and excepting the coves before mentioned, is nearly straight and perfectly compact. In this situation we noticed a conspicuous projecting point of land, very moderately elevated, stretching to the south-westward into the ocean, terminating in low steep cliffs, and rising with a very gradual aspect to the interior country, which is mountainous. Somewhere in the vicinage of this point, as I was informed, either the mission of S^ta Vincenta, or that of St. Thomas, had been settled in the year 1778, but we saw no appearance of any buildings, nor of land under cultivation.

During the first part of the night, which passed as before, the wind blew strong from the E. N. E.; this, though not so violent as we had experienced before from that quarter, nor attended with any smoke, was nevertheless very uncomfortable, by causing a dry parching heat, not only on the hands and face exposed to its immediate influence, but also, though in a less degree, over the whole body. This E. N. E. breeze died away about midnight, and was succeeded by light airs from the S. E.; against these we plied, and by our observation at noon on the following day, Thursday the 12th, we had reached the latitude of 31°, longitude 243° 51′. In this situation the southernmost land in sight bore by compass S. 72 E., the projecting point, N. 81 E., and the northernmost land in sight, N. 21 W.; the above projecting point is situated in latitude 30° 57′, longitude 244° 1′, and notwithstanding it is very remarkable, from its shape and appearance, as likewise by its forming a bay on its north-west, and another on its south-east side, it is not taken any notice of in the Spanish charts; I have therefore called it Cape Colnett, after Captain Colnett of the navy.

This promontory bore a very singular character as we passed; the cliffs already described as composing it are, about the middle between their summit and the water side, divided horizontally nearly into two equal parts, and formed of different materials; the lower part seemed to consist of land or clay of a very smooth surface and light colour; the upper part was evidently of a rocky substance, with a very uneven surface, and of a dark colour; this seemed to be again divided into narrow columns by vertical strata. These apparent divisions, as well horizontally as vertically, existed with great uniformity all round the promontory.

Early in the afternoon we discovered to the south-eastward something like a cluster of islands, and observed, that the bay on the south-east side of cape Colnett extended to the north-east; which, although of no great extent, appeared likely to afford tolerably good shelter. The wind continued in the southern quarter until the evening, when it was succeeded by light easterly breezes from the land, which continued until near noon the next day, Friday the 13th: we however made some progress, passing before an extensive bay, formed by cape Colnett, and a point of land off which these islands appeared to lie. Our distance of eight or nine miles from these shores when off the bay, was much greater than I could have wished, and was occasioned by the direction of the wind, which had prevented our approaching as I had intended, with the hope of obtaining a view of the mission of El Rosario founded in the year 1776, not far from the sea shore, and somewhere in this neighbourhood.

I was very anxious to become acquainted with this settlement, as there seemed to be a great probability of our being able to land near it, and to have acquired from the Rev. Fathers some substantial information respecting the Dominican missionaries, whose establishments commence southward from St. Diego, and continue all the way to cape St. Lucas; and as we had not hitherto had any intercourse with this religious order, an interview with them would have been esteemed a very desirable consideration.

We were visited by one of the natives in a straw canoe like those seen at St. Francisco, who pointed to the appearance of a cove in the extensive bay before mentioned, and said that a mission was situated there; though we could not discern it with our glasses. Some other questions were put to this man, but on finding we were not Spaniards, he became very reserved, and, after receiving some beads, returned towards the shore, directing his course to the place where he had given us to understand the mission was situated. But having now passed it, and it being also to windward of us, to have returned thither would have occasioned a delay that I could not afford; and on that account I declined the attempt, in full expectation of being able to land at the mission of St. Domingo formed in the year 1774, and said to be near the coast also, at the distance of 14 or 16 leagues southward from El Rosario.

Our course was now directed to the westward of all the apparent islands; the latitude at noon was 30° 35′, longitude 244° 9½′; in this situation the northernmost land in sight bore by compass N. 28 W.; cape Colnett N. 26 W.; the south point of the extensive bay named by me Point Zuniga, after the former commandant at St. Diego, on which stands a remarkable hummock in latitude 30° 30½′, longitude 244° 16½′, and which had been considered to be the northernmost of the above-mentioned islands, S. 66 E.; and the outermost of those islands, from S. 56 E. to S. 47 E. This last was soon discovered to be the only detached land of the whole group, and according to the Spanish charts is called Isle de Cenizas; it is about four miles in circuit, of a triangular form; its western side is formed by high steep cliffs, but its north-east and south-east sides terminate in low sandy land, extending towards the continent, with a detached rock lying off it. This, together with the colour of the water between it and the main land, were not favorable indications of that passage, which is about half a league wide, being navigable for shipping.

The continental shore southward from point Zuniga, which had been taken for islands, consisted of five remarkable hummocks, nearly of equal height and size, moderately elevated, with two smaller ones close to the water side; the whole rising from a tract of very low and nearly level land, forming a very projecting promontory; this, like many other places, not having been distinguished by any name in the Spanish charts, I have called Point Five Hummocks; and it is as conspicuous and remarkable as any projecting land the coast of these regions affords. The shores from point Zuniga take a direction S. 22 E. about eight miles, where, from the southernmost of these hills, point Five Hummocks terminates in a low point of land, forming the west point of a bay or inlet, that on our first approach had the appearance of being extensive; before, however, we could obtain a complete view of it, the day closed in, when the wind ceasing, and having regular soundings from 25 to 14 fathoms, we anchored for the night, in order to obtain some further information of it the next morning, Saturday the 14th. Day-light, however, presented nothing very remarkable, or worthy of the least delay; the whole was an open and exposed bay, formed by the sea coast retiring a little to the north and eastward of point Five Hummocks, off which at a little distance are some rocks and breakers. The north-west part of the bay had an appearance of affording tolerable shelter from the west and south-west winds, provided a sufficient depth of water should be found to admit of anchoring near the shore, which, from the view we had thus procured, seemed to be very doubtful.

At noon we had advanced but a little distance from our anchorage, when the observed latitude was 30° 19′, longitude 244° 24′. The southernmost land in sight now bore by compass S. 29 E.; point Five Hummocks, N. 43 W.; the island of Cenizas, N. 47 W.; and a point having behind it a remarkable mount of white barren sand, forming the south-east point of the bay just mentioned, N. 67 E. at the distance of six miles. The wind, chiefly from the southern quarter, was light and variable, so that we made no great progress along the coast; yet we advanced sufficiently to ascertain, that the southernmost land seen at noon was situated in latitude 29° 54′, longitude 244° 33′; that, the coast between us and that station, which by the evening was four or five leagues distant, was composed of nearly a straight shore, formed by steep perpendicular cliffs moderately elevated; and that the interior country was less mountainous than that which we had been accustomed to see further to the northward.

Having at length reached the 30th degree of north latitude, which was the southern limit of our intended survey of the western coast of North America, and having now accomplished the laborious task of its examination from hence northward to the 56th degree of north latitude, it becomes requisite to state some of my observations made on the Spanish charts of that coast, to which I have latterly had frequent occasion to refer.

On comparing them with the shores, especially to the southward of Todos Santos, little resemblance can be found; whilst the situation of the several prominent parts and important stations are rendered doubtful by the very great disagreement in point of latitude. Between Todos Santos, and the bay off which we anchored the preceding evening, (which bay according to Sen^r Quadra’s chart is the bay of St. Francisco) there are in those charts two spacious bays, whereas we found only one, in which we supposed the mission of El Rosario to be situated; this I considered as the bay de las Virgenes. We did not see the isle de S^ta Marios, nor the isles de St. Geronimo, nor the shoal that is laid down in the printed chart to the westward of the island of Cenizas. Hence it might appear, on reference to Sen^r Quadra’s chart, that we had been mistaken in respect to the identical part of the coast we were now abreast of; that the land we had taken for the island of Cenizas, was the island of Marios, and that what we supposed to have been the bay of St. Francisco, was that of de las Virgenes. But in this case the isles of St. Geronimo, the island of Cenizas, and the bay of St. Francisco, would still be somewhere to the southward, and consequently their latitude would be yet more irreconcileable; for in Sen^r Quadra’s chart the island of Cenizas is placed 40′, and in the printed charts 52′ further north than its real situation was found to be; and it is also represented to be of much greater extent than we found it to occupy. The west point of the bay of St. Francisco, (that is, point Five Hummocks) which was found by us to be in latitude 30° 23′, longitude 244° 20′, is placed by Sen^r Quadra’s chart in latitude 31° 6′, and in the other in 31° 22′. Should these places, therefore, be really so much further to the south, they are necessarily beyond the limit of our survey, and the error in latitude must have increased beyond all calculation or probability.

For these reasons I have adopted my first ideas as to the names of the places in question, on a presumption that the apparent difference between ours and the Spanish surveys, must wholly be attributed to the inaccuracy of their charts; an opinion I feel myself authorized to entertain, since Sen^r Quadra warned me against the incorrectness of the manuscript chart, as he did not know on what authority the coast southward of Monterrey had been laid down; and consequently could not be answerable for its accuracy, further than of its being a true copy from one which was regarded by the Spaniards as the best chart of those regions.

As we drew near the southern limits of our researches along this coast, I was in anxious expectation of seeing the mission of St. Domingo, which had been stated to be situated in this neighbourhood, and which is the southernmost Spanish settlement on, what I have considered as, the coast of New Albion, as discovered and named by Sir Francis Drake; or, as the Spaniards frequently call the same country, New California.

The exterior shores of that part of the continent to the south of the limits before mentioned, being those of the peninsula bearing that name, I would gladly have undertaken the task of examining further, for the purpose of correcting any other such geographical errors, notwithstanding the very extraordinary slow and tedious progress that had attended our late endeavours; had we not been so much pressed for time, in consequence of the very importunate manner in which Major Grose had requested the return of the Dædalus to New South Wales.

Exploring these shores any further would however have exceeded the strict letter of my instructions, and might possibly have excited additional jealousy in the breast of the Spanish acting governor. Under these considerations I was compelled, though with infinite reluctance, to abandon this interesting pursuit, and to determine on making the best of our way to the Sandwich islands, where I could firmly rely on the sincerity of Tamaahmaah, and the professions of the rest of our rude uncivilized friends in those islands, for a hearty welcome, a kind reception, and every service and accommodation in their humble power to afford; without any of the inhospitable restrictions we must have been under from the then civilized governor at Monterrey.

But as the completion of our survey demanded that the relative situation of the island of Guadaloupe with these shores should be ascertained according to our own observations, our course was directed thither.

The island of Guadaloupe is generally made by the Spaniards when bound to the southward from Monterrey, or from their other northern establishments; in which route they pass to the westward out of sight of those islands that form the channel of S^ta Barbara, for the advantage of continuing in the strength of the north-west winds; and thus they reach the island of Guadaloupe, from whence they shape a course for cape St. Lucas.

As a considerable part of the commission entrusted to my charge and execution had now been accomplished, and thus far drawn towards a conclusion; and as the nature of new countries, and the progress of new colonial establishments, must ever be regarded as interesting subjects of inquiry; I shall now endeavour to recite such circumstances as had fallen within the sphere of my observation, and such miscellaneous information as I was able to procure with respect to the Spanish settlements on these shores, but which would have interrupted the foregoing narrative, confined chiefly to the occurrences which were inseparable from our nautical or geographical pursuits.

On this occasion, however, it may not be unfit to premise, that the communication we had with the shores of New Albion, and our intercourse with the resident Spanish inhabitants, were too limited, and of too short duration to permit of my obtaining any other information than such as arose in common conversation from the impressions of surrounding objects. In addition to which, the situation in which I stood was of a very delicate nature, and demanded the most cautious attention on my part, lest any thing should occur, either by too great curiosity to be instructed in the knowledge of their internal government, or in the number, strength, and situation of their several establishments along the coast, that might prevent our obtaining the essential refreshments we required; or become the cause of any national disagreement. Under these circumstances, it was absolutely requisite that all my inquiries should be conducted with the greatest circumspection; and hence the knowledge obtained must necessarily be of a very limited nature, and rendered additionally incorrect, by my labouring under the mortifying disadvantage of understanding but little of the Spanish language.

The profound secrecy which the Spanish nation has so strictly observed with regard to their territories and settlements in this hemisphere, naturally excites, in the strongest manner, a curiosity and a desire of being informed of the state, condition, and progress of the several establishments provided in these distant regions, for the purpose of converting its native inhabitants to christianity and civilization.

The mission of St. Domingo has already been stated to be the southernmost of the Spanish settlements in New Albion; and it is also to be understood as the most southern of those that are considered as new establishments, from having been formed subsequent to the year 1769, when the expeditions by sea and land were undertaken to settle Monterrey and St. Diego. At this period their north-westernmost possession on this coast was Velicata, and S^ta Maria on the coast of the peninsula, in the gulph of California. Until that time these two missions had formed a kind of north-western barrier, or frontier, to the Spanish Mexican colonies. But, the rapid strides that Russia was then making in subjecting to its government the countries bordering on the north-western part of the North Pacific Ocean, awakened the apprehensions and roused the jealousy of the Spanish court; and in consequence of the alarm thus given, those expeditions were undertaken. Since that time all the new establishments have been formed, and the mission of Velicata removed some leagues to the north-westward, nearer the exterior coast of California.

The new settlements are divided into four different counties, or rather are placed under four distinct jurisdictions, of which Monterrey is the principal; and the established residence as well of the governor, who is captain-general of the province, as of the father president of the Franciscan order of missionaries. In each of the divisions is fixed one military post only, called the Presidio, governed by a lieutenant, who has under him an ensign, with sergeants, corporals, &c. And although the jurisdiction of the governor extends over the whole province, yet the respective commanders at the several Presidios are invested with great authority in the ordinary matters relative to their civil or military jurisdiction; but they seem to have very little influence or concern in any thing that appertains to the missions or ecclesiastical government, which appear to be wholly under the authority and management of the Rev. Fathers.

The most northern Presidio is that of St. Francisco, which has under its authority, or more properly speaking under its protection, the missions of St. Francisco and S^ta Clara, the pueblo of St. Joseph, about 3 or 4 miles from S^ta Clara, and the establishment which I understood had been formed during the preceding summer in the southern opening of port Bodega; to this opening they have given the name of Port Juan Francisco. Of this port I saw a plan, of which I afterwards procured a copy; by which it appeared capable of admitting vessels of small burthen only. The channel, which is not half a mile wide, is round its west point of entrance, and has across it a bar, on which at high water there is not more than three fathoms for some distance; after which it extends to two miles in width, and continues so, in a direction about south-east, for six miles. The soundings increase in mid-channel to six and seven fathoms, and decrease regularly towards the shore. Its head or upper part is bounded by shoal water, which extends some distance into the harbour. I could not discover in what part of the port the settlement is formed; though I was perfectly satisfied, that it had been undertaken by a Spanish officer named Sen^r Don Juan Matoota, and carried into effect by two expeditions from the port of St. Francisco; and although I was unable to ascertain the force employed on this occasion, I had every reason to believe it was very inconsiderable.

The next in succession southward is that of Monterrey, the capital of the province; under which the mission of S^ta Cruz, near point Anno Nuevo, is the most northern, and was established in the year 1789 or 1790; but was not at this time completed. In its immediate vicinity, I was given to understand a pueblo of the same name was formed in the year 1791; and about nine leagues to the E. S. E. of it is the mission of la Soledad. South and eastward from Monterrey are the missions of St. Carlos, St. Antonio, St. Luis, and S^ta Rosa la Purissima; the latter is situated near the entrance of the channel of S^ta Barbara, and these constitute the division of Monterrey.

The next and smallest division is that of S^ta Barbara. Although this Presidio and mission were not erected until the year 1786, the Spaniards had, prior to that time, resided in the neighbourhood for four or five years, in small huts and tents; but they only date the establishment from the completion of the buildings, which, I believe, has been uniformly the case with the others; yet I was not informed, that in any other instance they had remained so long exposed to the inconveniencies and dangers necessarily attendant on such a defenceless state, in the event of any misunderstanding taking place with the natives. Besides the mission of S^ta Barbara, the Presidio has under its ordinary authority that of Buena Ventura, founded in the year 1784, and the Pueblo de los Angelos, formed in 1781; which latter, I was told, was subject also to the control of the Presidio at St. Diego, the fourth and southernmost of these new settlements. This presides over the mission of St. Diego, founded with the Presidio in the year 1770; over St. Juan Capistrano, St. Gabriel, and St. Miguel. The last is not of the Franciscan order, but forms the northernmost of the Dominican missions. The religious of this order extend their missions southward; not only along the exterior coast, but also over the whole of the peninsula; and are under the regulations of the Presidio at Loretto, which is the only military establishment to the south of St. Diego, on the peninsula of California.

The climate of the country comprehended between the bay and port of St. Francisco, the former under the 38th, and the latter under the 30th degree of north latitude, is, by our own experience, as well as by the information we obtained, subject to much drought. The rainy season is from the month of December to March, the autumn in general being very dry; and although in the early part of our visit the preceding year we had some rain, yet we experienced an almost uninterrupted series of fine weather, with a clear atmosphere, very unlike that which had attended us there in last November; when, notwithstanding that on many occasions no clouds were to be seen, yet the density of the atmosphere in consequence of an almost continual dry haze or fog, sometimes partial, and at others general, was such, that distant objects were not discernible, and those in our immediate neighbourhood were frequently obscured. The inconvenience, however, was not felt in the same degree by those whole occupations confined them to the shore.

On quitting Monterrey the preceding year, I had made some remarks on the heat and cold at that time, but I had no opportunity of making any fresh experiments for this purpose on our late visit. Our climate at sea was much more uniform; the mean height of the mercury in the thermometer was about 62°, without varying more than 5° in elevation or depression; though, in a few instances, for an hour or two in the day, the heat was oppressive, and some of the nights were extremely cold. The mercury in the barometer was also very uniform, not descending lower than 29^in. 90^10ths. or rising above 30^in. 23^10ths.; nor did the shores indicate their being subject to frequent storms, or hard gales of wind; though it is imagined that the wind sometimes blows very strong from the S. E., west, and N. W., at the distance of a few leagues from the coast, from the heavy billows that roll in those directions, and break with great fury on the shore. The surf that prevented our landing at Buena Ventura, was attributed by the Spanish residents to the distant operation of a strong southerly gale, as the swell came from that quarter. The N. W. winds, however, are by far the most general, and occasion great difficulty in passing along these shores to the northward. The practice of the Spaniards is to stand a great distance into the ocean, until they reach far to the northward of the parallel of the port whither they are bound, and then steer for the land; but from our observations, during the time we were navigating these shores, such a precaution did not appear by any means necessary, at least at that season of the year; and as this coast had now been explored, and the direction of its shores and conspicuous places ascertained, so far as our survey had extended, I was convinced that vessels, with the winds we had from the bay of St. Francisco to point Conception, or indeed farther to the northward, would make as good a passage with the assistance of the land winds, which in general blow from the east and south-east to the north-westward, as they could make with the sea breeze to the south-eastward, since the land wind prevails during a larger proportion of the twenty-four hours than the sea breeze, and frequently blows stronger; besides which, most sailing vessels would gain some advantage in the day time, by turning to windward with the sea breeze, which generally blows steadily and moderately, over a sea that is smooth and tranquil.

The absence of rain, in the dry season, is in some measure compensated by the dews. These frequently fall very heavily, and tend to preserve the productions of nature from being intirely destroyed, though not in sufficient quantity to keep in constant action the springs of vegetation. Hence the dreary aspect of the country in most situations, which is further increased by the general scarcity of running water, as the whole country affords but a few small streams.

This very material disadvantage, so repeatedly stated already, we now found to continue to the most southern extent of our researches; the country, however, did not seem wholly destitute of this valuable article, though it did not frequently discover itself on its surface; and I entertain little doubt, that by digging wells to a proper depth, a sufficient and excellent supply for all domestic purposes would be obtained in most places. At least, the recourse that had been had to expedients of this nature, as well by ourselves as at some of the missions and Presidios, justified me in this opinion; but the Spaniards, contented with the brackish pools of water, already formed to their hand, for the supply of their shipping, are too inactive to search for better, or to draw into one stream the several small branches that exist on the surface for a small extent, and then are lost, either by exhalation from the sun, or the absorption of the thirsty soil.

The climate seems to be as healthy at St. Diego, and in the channel of S^ta Barbara, as at Monterrey; the salubrity of which was mentioned on our former visit. The soil of the country, at least that small portion of it that fell under my immediate inspection, at and to the northward of St. Diego along the sea coast, appeared of a light and sandy nature, varying in point of fertility; yet none seemed to be naturally steril, although it presented that outward appearance; and I am persuaded there are few spots that, with the assistance of manual labour, would not be made productive.

I had every reason to believe, that beyond the lofty mountains that range along and chiefly compose the shores of the continent under our present consideration, the surface would be found capable of receiving great improvement. This was remarked in our journey from the sea coast to the mission of S^ta Clara. At St. Diego the soil rapidly loses its fertility; and I was informed, that from thence immediately southward to cape St. Lucas, the whole of the peninsula is composed of a soil so extremely unproductive and barren, that good mould had been sent thither from other places, to certain situations where it was deemed proper to plant missions, and deposited there for the purpose of raising the grain and vegetables necessary for the establishments.

I shall now proceed to consider more fully the appropriation of this country by its new masters the Spaniards, who, though possessing the very extensive and fertile tract of land lying to the north-west from St. Diego, have not turned it to any profitable advantage, notwithstanding that the soil, as stated on former occasions, may be considered to be rich and luxuriant, at least in the parts selected by the Spaniards for their settlements. That much skill or investigation was not required in making their choice, was evident from the difference in the natural productions observed in my journey to S^ta Clara; when I became convinced, by the inquiries I had then an opportunity of making, that the soil of the missions of St. Antonio, La Soledad, and St. Luis, was equally fertile, especially that of the two former, which are said to be watered by several streams, and which yielded grain, fruits, and roots of the best quality, and in the greatest abundance. These were obtained with little trouble in clearing the ground, as spaces of great extent were found nearly free from trees or shrubs, and equally rich in soil with those parts that produced their lofty timbers and luxuriant forests. This fertility of soil seems to exist with little variation through the plains and vallies of the interior country, extending in some places to the water’s edge on the sea coast. Such, however, is not the situation of S^ta Barbara; the country about it to the north-west is chiefly composed of barren rocky cliffs, and towards the south-east is a low swampy salt marsh. The former, terminating very abruptly at no great distance from the water side, form between their base and the sea beach a plain, composed of a clayey and sandy soil; where, close about the foot of the cliffs, and protected by them from the sea winds, grow the holly-leaved oak trees, from which we obtained our supply of wood; and a few acres of land in that neighbourhood were inclosed, and in an indifferent state of cultivation. On the salt marshes that extend some distance further from the water side to the foot of the mountains, a few dwarf trees and groveling shrubs were produced, but no part of it was under cultivation; and as the whole of the interior country in all directions seemed to be composed of high barren naked mountains destitute of soil, it is not likely that it should be very abundant in its vegetable productions. Sufficient, however, is afforded for the use of the mission; and was it well supplied with water, it is supposed capable of being rendered very fruitful even under these disadvantages. The sheep and poultry here far exceeded those of every other establishment that we had visited, not only in point of size, but in the flavor and delicacy of the meat. To these was added from the sea a daily and abundant supply of most excellent fish, procured throughout the year by the natives, who are very expert in that, as well as in many other useful and necessary occupations.

The Presidio is principally supplied with grain and pulse from the pueblo de los Angelos, and the mission of Buena Ventura; which, though situated close to the water side, has the reputation of being amongst the most fertile of the establishments in this country. Its buildings were some time ago burnt down by accident; this circumstance, though attended with some temporary inconvenience, was the means of affording them an opportunity of replacing them on the same spot with more advantage, both in respect of their external appearance, and internal accommodation. These buildings surpassed all the others I had seen, being something larger, and more uniform; and the apartments were infinitely more commodious, and were kept extremely clean and neat. Both here and at S^ta Barbara, very great advantages are derived from having near each of these establishments a great abundance of very good lime-stone, excellent earth for bricks and tiles, and flag-stones for paving. These valuable materials give the buildings at these places a manifest superiority over those that are erected with substances less fit for the purpose; but, to balance this advantage, it appeared that their labours in husbandry, especially in raising European grains and pulse, were not rewarded by that abundant return which we had found at S^ta Clara. The average produce of their seed does not yield more than twenty-three for one in wheat, barley, and oats; the quality of which is not by any means equal to the same sort of corn grown in the more northern settlements. This inferiority is attributed more to the want of rain than to the comparative difference of the soil; since, although the soil and climate of the latter appeared to be more suitable to the agriculture of the open fields; yet the garden of Buena Ventura far exceeded any thing of that description I had before met with in these regions, both in respect of the quality, quantity, and variety of its excellent productions, not only indigenous to the country, but appertaining to the temperate as well as torrid zone; not one species having yet been sown, or planted, that had not flourished, and yielded its fruit in abundance, and of excellent quality. These have principally consisted of apples, pears, plumbs, figs, oranges, grapes, peaches, and pomegranates, together with the plantain, banana, cocoa-nut, sugar cane, indigo, and a great variety of the necessary and useful kitchen herbs, plants and roots. All these were flourishing in the greatest health and perfection, though separated from the sea side only by two or three fields of corn, that were cultivated within a few yards of the surf. The grounds, however, on which they were produced, were supplied, at the expence of some labour, with a few small streams, which, as occasion required, were conducted to the crops that stood most in need of water. Here also grew great quantities of the Indian fig, or prickly pear; but whether cultivated for its fruit only, or for the cochineal, I was not able to make myself thoroughly acquainted.

The mission is not conspicuous from situation, nor does it command an extensive prospect; in these respects that of S^ta Barbara has some advantage; its Presidio likewise excels all the others in neatness, cleanliness, and other smaller, though essential comforts; it is placed on an elevated part of the plain, and is raised some feet from the ground by a basement story, which adds much to its pleasantness.

The Presidio of St. Diego seemed to be the least of the Spanish establishments with which we were acquainted. It is irregularly built, on very uneven ground, which makes it liable to some inconveniencies, without the obvious appearance of any object for selecting such a spot. The situation of it is dreary and lonesome, in the midst of a barren uncultivated country, producing so little herbage, that, excepting in the spring months, their cattle are sent to the distance of twenty or thirty miles for pasturage. During that season, and as long as the rainy weather may continue, a sufficient number are then brought nearer for the use of the Presidio and mission; and such as have not been wanted are again sent back to the interior country when the dry weather commences; which, although more productive in point of grass, is not very prolific in grain, pulse, fruits, roots, or other culinary vegetables. I understood that they are frequently obliged to resort for a supply of these articles to the mission of St. Juan Capistrano, which abounded in vegetables and animal productions, consisting of great herds of cattle, flocks of sheep, and goats; and I was assured it was one of the most fertile establishments in the country.

The pueblos differ materially from either the missions or the Presidios, and may be better expressed by the name of villages, being unsupported by any other protection, than that of the persons who are resident in them. These are principally old Spanish, or creole, Soldiers; who, having served their respective turns of duty in the missions or in the Presidios, become intitled to exemption from any further military services, and have permission either to return to their native country, or to pass the remainder of their lives in these villages. Most of these soldiers are married, and have families; and when the retirement of the pueblos is preferred, grants of land, with some necessary articles, are given them to commence their new occupation of husbandry, as a reward for their former services, and as an incitement to a life of industry; which, with the assistance of a few of the friendly and well disposed natives, they carry into effect with great advantage to their families. Fertile spots are always chosen for planting these colonies; by cultivating which, they are soon enabled to raise corn and cattle sufficient, not only for their own support, but for the supply of the wants of the missions and Presidios in their neighbourhood. Being trained to arms, they early instruct the rising generation, and bring them up to the obedience of military authority; under the laws of which they themselves continue to be governed. There is no superior person or officer residing amongst them for the purpose of officiating as governor, or as chief magistrate; but the pueblos are occasionally visited by the ensign of the Presidio, within whose particular jurisdiction they are situated; This officer is authorized to take cognizance of, and in a certain degree to redress, such grievances, or complaints as may be brought before him; or to represent them, together with any crimes or misdemeanors, to his commanding officer; and also to report such improvements, regulations, or other matters arising in these little societies, as may either demand his permission or assent; from whose decision there is no appeal, but to the governor of the province; whose powers, I understood, were very extensive, though I remained ignorant concerning the particular nature of his jurisdiction.

These pueblos generally consist of about thirty or forty old soldiers with their families, who may be considered as a sort of militia of the country, and as assisting in the increase of its population, which, as far as it respects the Spaniards; is yet in a very humble state.

The mode originally adopted, and since constantly pursued, in settling this country, is by no means calculated to produce any great increase of white inhabitants. The Spaniards in their missions and Presidios, being the two principal distinctions of Spanish inhabitants, lead a confined, and in most respects a very indolent, life; the religious part of the society within a cloister, the military in barracks. The last mentioned order do nothing, in the strictest sense of the expression; for they neither till, sow, nor reap, but wholly depend upon the labour of the inhabitants of the missions and pueblos for their subsistence, and the common necessaries of life. To reconcile this inactivity whilst they remain on duty in the Presidio, with the meritorious exertions that the same description of people are seen to make in the pueblos, is certainly a very difficult task; and the contradiction would have remained very prejudicial to their character, had I not been informed, that to support the consequence of the soldier in the eyes of the natives, and to insure him their respect, it had been deemed highly improper that he should be subjected to any laborious employment. This circumstance alone is sufficient to account for the habitual indolence and want of industry in the military part of these societies.

The introduction of Christianity amongst the natives, the cultivation of their minds, and making them disciples of the Romish church, being wholly intrusted to the religious of the respective orders; none of those Indians are suffered to be employed in the Presidios but such as are particularly recommended; to whom the officers who give them employ are obliged to pay a certain daily sum of money, according to the service received; whilst, at the same time, the fathers have hundreds at their command, who when employed by them are rewarded with the produce resulting from the labours of such of their own society as are engaged in agriculture, in manufacturing their woollen garments, or in gardening.

These are the payments by which the wages of the carpenter, the smith, the mason, and other mechanics are satisfied; and as they have few persons of these trades amongst themselves, the whole of such business is performed by the Indians, under the immediate instruction and inspection of the Rev. Fathers, who by these means, alone have erected all their fabrics and edifices. At S^ta Barbara a new church was building, and at Buena Ventura the whole was to be rebuilt, both of which when finished, might be justly taken for the workmanship of more experienced artists. These two missions form each an intire square; the buildings are more lofty and extensive, and the superior quality of the materials with which they are erected, gives them a decided superiority over all the others.

These benevolent fathers are the corporeal as well as spiritual physicians of all the Indian tribes in the neighbourhood of the missions; and they exercise the arts both of surgery and medicine with great success, especially the latter, for the credit of which they may be indebted to the unimpaired constitutions of their patients, and the natural healthiness of the climate. The scarcity of spirituous liquors, and the great regularity of the inhabitants in food and employment, induces a life of temperance; and consequently, the diseases to which they are liable are seldom of a malignant nature, and in most instances readily yield to the simplest means of cure.

The number of the natives, at this period, who were said to have embraced the Roman Catholic persuasion under the discipline of the Franciscan and Dominican orders of missionaries in New Albion, and throughout the peninsula of California, amounted to about twenty thousand, and they were estimated at an eighth or tenth of the whole native population of those countries. Their progress towards civilization seems to have been remarkably slow; and it is not very likely to become more rapid, until the impolicy of excluding foreign visitors shall be laid aside, and an amicable commercial intercourse substituted in its room; by which system, new wants becoming necessary, new comforts would be introduced; this would stimulate them to industry, their lands would be examined and cultivated, and their stock of cattle would, by attention, soon increase so abundantly, as to enable them to dispose of the surplus produce of their farms to strangers, for such articles of convenience as would tend to facilitate their labours, and otherwise render their lives more comfortable. Provisions, timber, and sea otter skins, would be the first commodities for their exportation; and though the sea otter skins obtained in these parts, are certainly inferior to those procured further to the north, they could not fail of becoming a profitable article of traffic.

I did not find that New Albion had yet been supposed to contain any valuable minerals, nor is California considered much richer in that respect; though I understood, that about 14 leagues to the north-west of the Presidio of Loretto, which is situated in the 26th degree of north latitude on the Shores of the peninsula in the gulf of California, the Spaniards had lately discovered two silver mines that were stated to be tolerably productive. The Presidio of Loretto is on a more extensive plan than any in New Albion; its inhabitants amount to about seventy Spaniards and several families of Indians, besides a mixed race exclusive of the garrison, which is composed of a company of sixty soldiers, with their officers.

The missionaries of the Franciscan order, who extend their functions no farther south than St. Diego, act in all cases under the particular direction of their college, a branch of which is established at Mexico; with which a constant correspondence is kept up, and by which their conduct appears, on all occasions, to be regulated; and they seem, in most respects, nearly independent of military subjection.

From this brief sketch, some idea may probably be formed of the present state of the European settlements in this country, and the degree of importance they are of to the Spanish monarchy, which retains this extent of country under its authority by a force that, had we not been eye-witnesses of its insignificance in many instances, we should hardly have given credit to the possibility of so small a body of men keeping in awe, and under subjection, the natives of this country, without resorting to harsh or unjustifiable measures. The number of their forces, between port St. Francisco and St. Diego, including both establishments, and occupying an extent in one line of upwards of 420 nautical miles, does not amount to three hundred, officers included; and from St. Diego southward, to Loretto, not above one hundred more, exclusive of the garrison and settlers residing at that port. These are all that are employed for the protection of the missions. Those of the Dominican order, to the southward of St. Diego, are sixteen in number, each of which is guarded by five soldiers only. Of the Franciscan order, to the northward of St. Diego, there are thirteen; some guarded by five, whilst others have eight, ten, or twelve soldiers for their protection, in those situations where the Indians are more numerous, and likely to prove troublesome. This seems to be more apprehended at La Soledad and at St. Antonio than at any other of the establishments. The Presidio of St. Diego and S^ta Barbara are each garrisoned by a company of sixty men; out of which number guards are afforded to the missions of the same names. The garrison of Monterrey, generally, I believe, consists of a company of sixty or eighty men, and that of St. Francisco thirty-six men only. These soldiers are all very expert horsemen, and, so far as their numbers extend, are well qualified to support themselves against any domestic insurrection; but are totally incapable of making any resistance against a foreign invasion.

The number of vessels that have lately visited the coast of North-West America in new commercial pursuits, have been instrumental in awakening the attention of the Spaniards, and they have recently made some efforts to shew an appearance of defence. On our last visit to St. Francisco, eleven dismounted brass cannon, nine-pounders, with a large quantity of shot, of two different sizes, were lying on the beach. These, we understood, were to be placed on the south-east point of entrance into the port; which is a steep cliff, well situated to command the passage into the harbour, but is commanded in return by a hill at no great distance, to the south-eastward. Several Spaniards, with a numerous body of Indians, on our late visit on the top of the cliff, were employed in erecting what seemed to be intended for a platform, or a barbet battery, but it was not at that time in a sufficient state of forwardness for us to decide, whether it might not be designed for a more regular work.

At Monterrey the cannon, which, on our former visit, were placed before the Presidio, were now removed to the hill, mentioned at that time as intended to be fortified for the purpose of commanding the anchorage. Here is now erected a sorry kind of barbet battery, consisting chiefly of a few logs, of woods, irregularly placed; behind which those cannon, about eleven in number, are opposed to the anchorage, with very little protection in the front, and on their rear and flanks intirely open and exposed.

S^ta Barbara is a post of no small consequence, and might be rendered very tenable, by fortifying a hill conspicuously situated for such a purpose on the north-west side of the roadstead; yet they have here only two brass nine-pounders, placed before the entrance into the Presidio, which is situated in the valley or plain beneath, at the distance of about a mile from this eminence. As this post is the key to all the communication between their northern and southern establishments, it was worthy of remark, that they had not attempted to provide an intercourse by some other road, through the mountains, which rise perpendicularly immediately behind the Presidio, and in their present rugged state are inaccessible, left this station should ever fall into possession of an invading enemy.

With little difficulty St. Diego might also be rendered a place of considerable strength, by establishing a small force at the entrance of the port; where, at this time, there were neither works, guns, houses, or other habitations nearer than the Presidio, which is at the distance of at least five miles from the port, and where they have only three small pieces of brass cannon.

Such is the condition of this country as it respects its internal security, and external defence; but why such an extent of territory should have been thus subjugated, and after all the expence and labour that has been bestowed upon its colonization turned to no account whatever, is a mystery in the science of state policy not easily to be explained.

The natives are not, nor can they be, rendered tributary, because they possess no tribute to offer; nor do these territories, though greatly favored by nature, contain, or under the present arrangement seem intended in future to contain, large towns or cities, whose inhabitants could in any respect add to the affluence, grandeur, or dignity of the monarch who upholds them. If these establishments are intended as a barrier against foreign intruders, the object in view has been greatly mistaken, and the most ready means have been adopted to allure other powers, by the defenceless state of what the Spaniards consider as their fortresses and strongholds. Should the ambition of any civilized nation tempt it to seize on these unsupported posts, they could not make the least resistance, and must inevitably fall to a force barely sufficient for garrisoning and securing the country; especially that part which I have comprehended under the denomination of New Albion, whose southernmost limits lie under the 30th degree of north latitude. Here the coast, washed by the waters of the Pacific, is not more than 30 leagues (if so much) from the shores under the same parallel, nearly at the head of the gulf of California. This pass, being once well secured by any power, determined to wrest New Albion from the Spanish monarchy, would inevitably prevent an army by land from coming to the support of the present possessors, or to the annoyance of an invading enemy; for two very obvious reasons. The first is, that the natives of the country about the river Colorado, a most daring and warlike people, have from time immemorial been the inveterate and avowed enemies of the Spaniards; who not many years since surprized and cut off a Presidio and mission, containing near an hundred Spaniards, and still continue to act on all occasions with hostility. The other reason is, that to the westward of the territory of these people, from the banks of the Colorado, the mountainous, barren, and inhospitable state of the country renders it at present so totally impassable, that the Spaniards could never penetrate by land at the back of these their new establishments. These facts were established by many inquiries, and confirmed by the route which the Spaniards pursue for the purpose of avoiding such difficulties, when passing between their settlements in New Albion, and those north-eastward of the river Colorado, which are instances that frequently occur; and on these occasions they are obliged to go as far south as the Presidio of Loretto before they cross the gulf of California, and then proceed along its eastern shores, northward, to their destination, even though it should be to the city of S^ta Fee, the capital of New Mexico.

This city was founded in the beginning of the last century, about the time when the Count of Monterrey was viceroy of New Spain; it is garrisoned with five hundred men only, and it is said to be situated in the finest country that America affords, nearly under the meridian of Loretto and the parallel of port St. Francisco; between which port and S^ta Fee, an extent of about 100 leagues, the Spaniards have endeavoured to effect a communication by land, though hitherto unsuccessfully; their labours having been constantly defeated by the obstruction of the lofty range of mountains existing between New Mexico and the sea coast. This project, however, is not intirely abandoned, though little hope was entertained of its accomplishment.

The Spaniards, in doing thus much, have only cleared the way for the ambitious enterprises of those maritime powers, who, in the avidity of commercial pursuits, may seek to be benefited by the advantages which the fertile soil of New Albion seems calculated to afford. By the formation of such establishments, so wide from each other, and so unprotected in themselves, the original design of settling the country seems to have been completely set aside, and, instead of strengthening the barrier to their valuable possessions in New Spain, they have thrown irresistible temptations in the way of strangers to trespass over their boundary.

From their dominions in New Spain they have stocked this frontier country with such an abundance of cattle of all descriptions, that it is no longer in their power, even were they so inclined, to effect their extermination. They have also pointed out many fertile spots, some of which are very extensive, where they have introduced the most valuable vegetable productions, not only necessary to the sustenance, but ministering to many of the luxuries, of civilized society; and they have, by their previous experiments, fully ascertained in what degree each is found to succeed. A certain proportion of the natives have, by the indefatigable labour of the missionaries, been weaned from their former uncivilized, savage way of life, and are become obedient to social forms, and practised in many domestic occupations. All these circumstances are valuable considerations to new masters, from whose power, if properly employed, the Spaniards would have no alternative but that of submissively yielding.

That such an event should take place appears by no means to be very improbable, should the commerce of North-west America be further extended. The advantages that have already been derived, and are likely still to accrue, in the prosecution of a well-conducted trade, between this coast and China, India, Japan, and other places, may on some future day, under a judicious and well-regulated establishment, become an object of serious and important consideration, to any nation that shall be inclined to reap the advantages of such a commerce.

Russia at present seems principally to engross these benefits, in consequence of the unwise competition between private adventurers of other nations, not only on the coast of America, but also at Canton and in its neighbourhood; the only market to which, at present, such adventurers can carry the furs of North-west America.

The importance of such a trade, politically considered, or the value of it, when duly appreciated, to private adventurers, I shall leave to the decision of those who are better informed on such subjects; because I had no opportunity of receiving satisfactory information upon matters of that intricate nature.

END OF THE FOURTH VOLUME.

T. Gillet, Printer, Salisbury Square.

It is not surprising that spelling was variable across the six volumes of this work. The spelling of variable words, including the names of sails, was changed to match that which predominated, even though that spelling may not have been the preferred spelling at the time of writing or may now be obsolete. Other obvious typographic errors were corrected. All other words are as in the original.

The table of contents for all six volumes was originally published only in the first volume. The part of the table of contents relating to each subsequent volume is reproduced in that volume.

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[The end of Voyage of Discovery Vol. 4 by George Vancouver]